Southeast Utah

[John Jarosz]

I've looked at a lot of the threads on this subject, and while they have good info , it's really not what I'm doing (for instance, I'm not going to stand in a pack of people to get a photograph). I'll enter the 4 corners area going west from Farmington, NM. From there I'll sleep in Mexican Hat, Monticello and Moab. I'd like to hit Monument Valley (no guides), Natural Bridges Nat'l Monument, Valley of the Gods, Goosenecks State Park, Canyonlands, Arches, maybe Dead Horse State Park. Then I move off Utah via I-70.
I know there's more to see there, but that's all I have time for.

It's not all photography, but there will be a lot of it. Some stargazing too. I won't be hiking much for photos as I want to do B&W ULF. I'm really not interested in making major changes to the itinerary, but I will drop some sites if they are marginal. I'm not going for postcards, I'm going for images that appeal to me, and ones that will look good in a carbon print. Because it's ULF, I won't be making hundreds of exposures either. :-)

Any thoughts about those specific locations ( or nearby substitutions) would be welcome.

Thanks

John

[Kirk Keyes]

All good places. You don't say how long you have. Will you be camping or hotelling?

Have you thought of Chaco Canyon in NM?

[John Jarosz]

I'm trading one rat race for another. This part of the trip is 5 days. I won't have time to go back multiple times for exactly the right light. This trip is like photographing a river, something that is constantly flowing past me. This is my first trip into southeast Utah.

Hotels. Camping with all the other stuff is too much work. Also need suggestions on places to eat (or not) and locations with good food stores for roadfood so we don't have to eat out all the time.

John

[Don7x17]

Consider staying in Bluff rather than Mexican Hat.
While in Bluff, eat at the Cow Canyon Cafe, right at the corner of 163-191.
Nearby - outstanding Petroglyphs along the river but some good ones accessible from the road (try the river launch site just west of Bluff) and a really nice set of ruins west of Bluff (ask locally).

You're going to Goosenecks, but don't ignore Muley point. Excellent early in morning or late in evening.

You are covering a lot of territory in a short amount of time. Good luck

[Donald Miller]

Five days???? Does that include your travel time from the your home??? You will not have much time to photograph if you make all of the sites you mentioned.

My last trip into that region was two weeks duration and I did not cover but a fraction of what you listed.

Four corners would normally include Hovenweep...possibly Mesa Verde...Not sure that every possible photograph has been made at those sites. When I was last through that part of the country there was some ongoing excavation of archealogical sites around Cortez, Co...the people at the local museum can direct you if you ask them.

South of Farmington about forty or so miles is the Bisti Badlands...unusual formations...probably not as heavily photographed as some of the other places. Chaco Culture ruins are south and east of Farmington. Canyon de Chelly is quite unusual and in the same general area (NE Arizona).

The drive up to I 70 from Moab is quite nice along the river. I have always enjoyed the rock formations around Moab...both north and south south west. Canyonlands is south/southwest of Moab and if you have a good high clearance vehicle you can get back into the hinterlands. Elephant Rock in Canyonlands is a real treat to circumvent...busted axles are common place but the back country is worth the trip.

[John Jarosz]

Good grief... :-)

5 days from Farmington to Moab

John

[Eric Brody]

You'll not get far in Monument Valley without a guide. It is the Navajo Nation and many earn their living by guiding. It is well worth it. If possible get your own, going on a group tour will get you 30 seconds to make the shot with all the point and shoot folks, just what you do not want. Agree with staying in Bluff but am not certain the Cow Canyon Cafe is still open. I agree, Muley Point is worth it, especially late. Also agree that your plan may be a bit ambitious. If it's images you're after, you may do better with fewer places and more time in each. Without meaning to sound like a western snob, distances are great compared to the east and midwest.

Good luck.

Eric

[Eric James]

Tsé Bit'a'í (the rock with wings) is just west of Farmington.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shiprock

It would look nice next to a crescent or full moon:

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=48630

[sidmac]

Try Goblin Valley just west of Green River UT. on the road to Hanksville. Island in the Sky and Dead Horse Point are north on Moab on 191. Good evening shots. Arches can be pretty busy but it's worth the trip. Chaco Canyon is good but it's a long way off the beaten track. Try Bisti Badlands out of Farmington.
Most Navajo Parks are pretty well controled by the Navajo Nation and guide service is helpful. There are so many places to see in the Four Corners area. Around Moab there are many unmarked places right by the road
Sid McCammond
Pagosa Springs, CO (On the edge of the four corners.

[mrladewig]

I don't really know what sorts of subjects you're looking for in that area. Its a really big and diverse chunk of land from Farmington to Moab. You can find everything from farm pastures to high desert to mountains and canyons framed by vertical sandstone walls in that part of the state.

Laurent Martres has a book on SE Utah which I would highly recommend if your plan is to photograph scenic landscape type subjects or the ancient ruins in the area. Its well laid out and has solid information on the best times. If you prefer to photograph rural or human subjects instead, its probably not the best reference.

Although I like Moab and have gone there for 15 years to mountain bike, hike and jeep, I've been shocked by its rapid growth over recent years and rarely find myself with a desire to go there anymore. Too many tourists, ATV riders, jeepers (in which I count myself), mountain bikers and everything else. These days I just prefer less populated and quieter areas.

If you have a more specific subject in mind than "looks good in a carbon print", I'm sure more people could help you out. I almost always camp when I'm out there and really couldn't provide any specifics on places to eat or avoid other than to say I've never liked McStiff's in Moab and that the brewery is typical brewery food. If your funds allow for it, I can recommend Bret Edge as a photo guide in Moab. He doesn't shoot LF, but knows his way around the area very well.

[John Jarosz]

This is all good stuff you're all writing. I have thought about Goblin Valley.

Interesting that Moab is getting crowded. Is it as bad as Durango? I couldn't believe how big that town got.

Two votes for staying in Bluff as opposed to Mexican Hat. Is that because Bluff is so good or is Mexican Hat bad?

I photograph things that interest me visually. So it depends on what things look like when I'm there. I'll take a landscape if I like it, rocks, junk, maybe even people. I'm not trying to duplicate any photos I've seen, that's not my thing. I don't have a photographic agenda, so maybe that's what's difficult for you to relate to in terms of discussing where to go etc. Abstract I know. I don't want crowds, or a managed approach. More like a shotgun approach. My idea is to have a lot of options so that if something isn't right for a photo, I can move on. It's about photography but it's also about a journey and being on the road.

The internet is kind of amazing in that one can find out so much about these remote spots. But, at the same time, I get to read all these lame reviews of restaurants (even the Cow Canyon Cafe) on how the salad wasn't perfect or they only had one kind of wine by people who have no idea where they are or what life is like where they are at..

Bisti Badlands sounds interesting, I'll investigate that as well.

john

[Duane Polcou]

Knowing what I know about SE Utah (20+trips), with your time frame, and with the desire to avoid crowds, I would

1. Hire a guide in Monument Valley definitely. You can access Hunt's Mesa, etc, and avoid crowds.

2. Drive to the Needles District in Canyonlands NP and day hike into Chesler Park. Some of the most exquisite Canyonlands scenery with medium level effort.

3. Day hike to some lesser known arches in Arches NP, like Eye of the Whale. Courthouse Wash, although it can get tourist-y, has some beautiful formations. See Steve Mulligan's LF Black and White book Courthouse Wash.

4. Day hike in Negro Bill Canyon, about 20 min out of Moab. Sort of a local best kept secret . Most mountain bikers hit Slickrock Trail so this canyon can be quieter and has some beautiful erosional features and desert varnish.

Just my dos pesos.

[knoche]

I'll add my vote for Bluff as a place to stay over Mexican Hat.
Some other random thoughts...
I would tend to suggest you just skip Monument Valley and Canyon De Chelly if you are not going with a guide. It is technically illegal for any non-Navajo to be anywhere on the reservation with out a guide except on major highways. And as has been suggested the guides are often helpful and can take you some great places. No guide, not much interesting to see.
While I am not a huge fan of Goblin Valley itself (there are some pretty interesting things to image there though) I do really like the slot canyons just to the west of there (if you have 4x4 and it doesn't rain). Take wild horse road west and south...

I am a huge fan of Capitol Reef and Canyonlands. You could spend years...

Along 191 there is Flat Iron road that ends a reasonable overlook as does the Needles Overlook road an not far off the highway.

Of course Islands in the Sky is pretty cool especially along the White Rim road. Take 279 south just before you get to Arches.
Of course there are lots of things in Arches. You could easily spend weeks there.

When you leave Moab take 128 along the Colorado as an alternative way to get up to I70.

[Eric Leppanen]

I gather from your posts that your visit will take place within the next few weeks. If so, the Colorado Plateau can be very windy during May, so I suggest taking a smaller, more wind-proof camera system for those occasions where shooting ULF is not feasible.

In my experience, staying at Mexican Hat means staying at the San Juan Inn (http://www.sanjuaninn.net/index.aspx). The rooms are tolerable (one star rating with AAA) and the food is OK, and the location (overseeing the Little Colorado river) is picturesque. But staying at Bluff or Blanding definitely gives you more upscale lodgings and more options.

The tourist season in Moab starts at the beginning of March and lasts through Labor Day. Weekends are crowded, and you may have some difficulty finding a hotel room unless you make advance reservations (weekdays should be fine).

It sounds like you want to hit as many locations as possible, so the route itinerary you have selected seems good in this regard. Bisti requires hiking, and is probably not all that compatible with ULF (if you do Bisti, you might as well also do Chaco Canyon, which is nearby).

I think Monument Valley Tribal Park is an excellent ULF subject if the winds are not bad, but I agree you definitely need to hire a guide to get at the good spots (I used Tom Phillips some years back, see http://www.monumentvalley.com/Pages/english_tours.html, but there are always guides at the visitor center available ad hoc). Hunt's Mesa is arguably the ultimate Monument Valley destination (and good for ULF, as you are shooting down at distant valley vistas), but requires camping overnight and the ride up/down can be rough on photographer and equipment if things are not properly secured (bring a spare ground glass, and definitely don't use your own vehicle for this!). Plus weather-wise late September/early October is arguably the best time to make that journey, as there is little danger of rain making the road impassable). I believe there is a new motel located near the visitor center that is operated by the Navajo nation, that provides an additional lodging option versus Gouldings if you decide to stay overnight at the park.

Newspaper Rock (on the road to the Canyonlands Needles district) is a cliche, but also a nice, planar ULF subject best photographed in the early/mid afternoon.

And despite all the tourists, there's nothing like the Moab area (maybe shoot Arches in the morning and Deadhorse Point near sunset).

Good luck and have fun!

[Doug Dolde]

By all means get Laurent Martres book.

http://www.phototripusa.com/swb_10.htm

[Don7x17]

remember that hiring a guide on the Navajo Rez is different than hiring a guide in most other areas. Be sure to discuss your expectations -- they may think that just showing you a site is ok, and once checked off, on to the next. And time on the Rez flows differently -- there are only two times. Time to take the sheep out and time to take the sheep in. IF you wish to stay for late light, that may or may not be what your guide is expecting -- so negotiate before you hire. You won't be disappointed. I've found that the oldest guides are often the best. The youngsters (under 40) seem interested in just getting back to the sheep.

Oh, and just stopping by the side of the road to make a picture, say of Agathela Peak, may draw attention that you don't want. Expect eyes on you while you are on the Rez no matter if there is is no other soul around. I've got friends that have gotten tickets from the Rez police for taking pictures along the road between Kayenta and Monument Valley.... Take care

And if in doubt, go to the local chapter house to get permissions. They run on Rez time....not always open during bankers hours.

[Kerry L. Thalmann]

I also prefer to stay in Bluff over Mexican Hat. My preferred lodging is the Recapture Lodge. The owners, Jim and Jan Hook, are great sources of information about the area. They have several 3-ring binders full of maps and photos of local sites (ruins, rock art, etc.).

The last time I was there, you could still drive the 17-mile loop in Monument Valley without hiring a guide. However, you will get an earlier start if you hire a guide - and of course, can also access sites off the main loop. drive.

And yes, definitely get Laurent's book.

Kerry

[John Jarosz]

Don's comments on the Rez police are unsettling. Hmmm. I gather that's the reason everyone is recommending to hire a guide. Back here in the East we have a descriptive word for that type of business.

More votes for Bluff. But why? Is the lodging better or is it the location? I chose Mexican Hat (Hat Rock Inn) because it seemed I could save some mileage as it looks closer to spots I'd like to hit in that part of the trip. Do the locals in Mexican Hat have 3 heads?

Laurent's book looks very good. It looks like everything he does is in color. True?

My plan is to arrive in Farmington on the 21st of June. So I still have time to make adjustments.

I had already planned on taking 128 along the Colorado from Moab to I-70.

All your comments are really appreciated.

John

[Don7x17]

Don's comments on the Rez police are unsettling. Hmmm. I gather that's the reason everyone is recommending to hire a guide. Back here in the East we have a descriptive word for that type of business.

More votes for Bluff. But why? Is the lodging better or is it the location? I chose Mexican Hat (Hat Rock Inn) because it seemed I could save some mileage as it looks closer to spots I'd like to hit in that part of the trip. Do the locals in Mexican Hat have 3 heads?
John


Nothing to worry about on the Rez if you take a moment to realize that things are, well, just different. Its not BLM land. Its not National Forest Service Land. Its not public land. Its not YOUR land as a US Citizen. Its Indian Land. They have a fair bit of automomy, but when things go bad (for you) things quickly revert to federal courts, or sometimes state for simple driving violations. By hiring a guide, you are in the care of a local that knows the laws, knows what is open and what is not, and knows how to keep you out of trouble. Its good business for them ($$) and will keep you out of trouble. Yes, you can drive the loop without a guide and there are a few places, like Ford Point, where you can get out and walk around, but there are more interesting places in Monument Valley. I've used guides elsewhere than Canyon de Chelley and Monument Valley...there are other scenic locations on the Rez.

Don't like the policies on the Rez? Just stay north of the San Juan....its all mostly BLM and public land.

I think what most people are trying to tell you is the M.H., while having a nice sombrero rock formation, is not much of a place. Stay in Bluff, or Gouldings, or the new tribal-owned lodge at the entrance to Monument Valley.

One more thing -- there's a great overlook between MH and Bluff - you'll need a vehicle that is capable of traveling on a poorly marked rough road. Looks into the San Juan River. Its a faint unmarked turnout as you go up the hill after the big wash.

[Kirk Keyes]

While in Bluff, eat at the Cow Canyon Cafe, right at the corner of 163-191.

Don - I like the Cottonwood Steak House in Bluff. Or the Twin Rocks Cafe for a more local menu.

Desert Rose Inn is a good place to stay there.

I like Bluff as it's close to Muley, the San Juan Overlook, Valley of the Gods (which I don't find that interesting - not compared to Monument Valley), but mostly, it's good base for Cedar Mesa (better if you camp at Natural Bridges) and Comb and Butler Wash (only go there if you have a high clearance vehicle).

[Kerry L. Thalmann]

Don - I like the Cottonwood Steak House in Bluff. Or the Twin Rocks Cafe for a more local menu.

I haven't had the pleasure of dining at the Cow Canyon Trading Post. I've only stayed in Bluff in the spring (March) and fall (October). The Cow Canyon restaurant is only open during the peak season months.

I have eaten at the Twin Rocks Cafe (http://www.twinrockscafe.com/) and Cottonwood Steakhouse (http://http://www.cottonwoodsteakhouse.com/) multiple times. My kids preferred the Twin Rocks Cafe (they also have a pretty good breakfast). I like the Cottonwood Steakhouse for generous steaks, ribs and BBQ chicken.

Kerry

[Kerry L. Thalmann]

Laurent's book looks very good. It looks like everything he does is in color. True?

Yes, but don't let that discourage you from getting his book. It's a tremendous guidebook chock full of information and directions to some great photo sites (and sights).

Kerry

[Don7x17]

I haven't had the pleasure of dining at the Cow Canyon Trading Post. I've only stayed in Bluff in the spring (March) and fall (October). The Cow Canyon restaurant is only open during the peak season months.

I have eaten at the Twin Rocks Cafe (http://www.twinrockscafe.com/) and Cottonwood Steakhouse (http://http://www.cottonwoodsteakhouse.com/) multiple times. My kids preferred the Twin Rocks Cafe (they also have a pretty good breakfast). I like the Cottonwood Steakhouse for generous steaks, ribs and BBQ chicken.

Kerry

Yes they are both good. But given the choice of the three I'll Choose Cow Canyon any day. I mostly go in September, after the crowds but while the San Juan still has water flow.

[Mark Barendt]

My wife just took a seminar in Moab, 5 nights in the same campground. 5 days of shooting and didn't run out of subjects.

Sounds like you're out for the foreign tourist special though, that's okay, have fun.

[venchka]

Just last week I discovered (on the internet) a new (newish) hotel at Monument Valley.

I have stayed in Monticello and Green River, Utah. Both were ok. Grocery stores in each. This isn't the Dark Side of the Moon. Services are available at convenient intervals of 30-40-50 miles.

The only other advice I can offer is avoid I-70 if at all possible and don't overlook Capital Reef N.P. It never gets mentioned in discussions like this.


Tsé Bit'a'í (the rock with wings) is just west of Farmington.


I wouldn't miss Ship Rock either. A worthy candidate for a carbon print. You also didn't mention Mesa Verde N.P. You may see signs pointing down gravel roads to BLM historical areas. Anasazi ruins and the like. These are usually uncrowded.

Bon voyage!

[Alan Rabe]

Yeah, I think the Navajo built a new hotel right on the edge of the valley. Used to be an old dirt lot and a primitive campsite.

[venchka]

Yeah, I think the Navajo built a new hotel right on the edge of the valley. Used to be an old dirt lot and a primitive campsite.

GOOGLE knows for sure. The only question in my mind: have they opened for business?

[Don7x17]

GOOGLE knows for sure. The only question in my mind: have they opened for business?

The hotel was on the travel channel in January - its open. Classic view from the veranda of each room of the mittens

[venchka]

There you go. I'll be on the lookout for it on TV. That is great news for me. That's the only way I could Mrs. Venchka to stay in the Park. She doesn't camp.

[John Jarosz]

http://www.monumentvalleyview.com/

$195/night Queen bed
$295/night King bed

John

[Brian Vuillemenot]

As several have mentioned, you should not attempt do do all those locations in 5 days. There's no way you can see and enjoy them, let alone photograph them, in that short of a time. I would pick two or three, and stay 2-3 days in each. You'll get the most bang for your photographic buck in Arches, Canyonlands (the Island in the Sky district), and Monument Valley. There's quite a bit to photograph along the roads through those three parks. As for Monument Valley, you can drive the 17 mile loop road by yourself during the day, but to get close to many of the formations, as well as photograph during early morning or dusk when the light is best, you'll need to hire a guide. Guides can be hired at the visitor center, or if you do a search on this forum there are many previous threads recommending specific guides who are LF-friendly.

One more park I would highly recommend, although it's a few hours from Moab, is Capitol Reef. You really need a 4-wheel drive to explore most of it, though.

[Brian Vuillemenot]

http://www.monumentvalleyview.com/

$195/night Queen bed
$295/night King bed

John

Ouch! When I was there, I paid $10 a night to camp with the same view, and it was $5 a night in the off-season (no showers, though).

[venchka]

YIKES! Mrs. Wayne can stay at home!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll take my tent.

I think we should stop mentioning Capital Reef N.P. Let it stay undiscovered. A terrible, horrible, no good, very bad place. Stay away.

[tgtaylor]

The "best time to go, IMO, is during the winter - say late December thru January. The crowds are non-existant, campgrounds are empty (pick your spot), good motel rooms are $26.95 - $29.95 (a quality motel room in downtown Moab cost me $26.95; a single cabin at Capitol Reef ran $20), AND, most important to me, the sky has character and lacks the haze common during the warm months (you can actually see 50+ miles in areas). The days are short - sure - but the lighting is the best.

Thomas

[rdenney]

The "best time to go, IMO, is during the winter - say late December thru January. The crowds are non-existant, campgrounds are empty (pick your spot), good motel rooms are $26.95 - $29.95 (a quality motel room in downtown Moab cost me $26.95; a single cabin at Capitol Reef ran $20), AND, most important to me, the sky has character and lacks the haze common during the warm months (you can actually see 50+ miles in areas). The days are short - sure - but the lighting is the best.

I've always wanted to make a trip out there for photography during the winter. Best would be when there is a dusting of snow. The images I've seen in those conditions have always drawn me in. And it must be wonderfully quiet.

The last time I was in Moab (2003), the prices weren't that bad but the crowds were pervasive. Maybe at relatively out-of-the-way places like the Goosenecks the crowds thin out. But I know it's going to be a long day when I see the tour buses ahead of us in the line at the gate.

In trips before that, we avoided crowds by going places crowds weren't willing to go. But it's difficult to get to those places. The last time I was at Maze Overlook, it took eight hours of determined driving to get there, from the park boundary, and that's in addition to the 90 minutes it took to get to the boundary from Hanksville. Pritchett Arch is only about half a dozen miles from Moab, but getting there in a vehicle requires a substantial commitment--the last time we were there (late 80's, I think), it took us all day to get there from Moab, via the Needles District, and then most of the evening and part of the next morning to descend back down via Pritchett Canyon (in a jeep). I think we could have hiked there and back more quickly.

Even driving in the north end of Capitol Reef saw actual traffic during that 2003 trip, and that's a jeep trail.

During the season, the best time strategy we discovered was to go into the park as soon as it opened, spend several hours making photographs, and then come back out (or hole up). My wife would take a nap and I would knock around town. Then, about four in the afternoon, we'd go back into the park and stay until dark, while others were overflowing the Moab beaneries. That works in places like Arches and Island in the Sky, but not for the more remote places like the Needles.

As long as one is limited to a regular passenger car and a tight schedule, crowds will be hard to avoid during the season. Photography makes different demands than tourism.

Beware if traveling during the winter: If you go further west in Utah into the high plateaus, you'll find real winter weather. I remember driving across the Markagunt Plateau to reach Cedar Breaks some years ago, and even in middle May the road had been freshly snowplowed. But there were still tour buses at Cedar Breaks, though I think the Brian's Head ski resort had already shut down for the season. That plateau is up in the 9000-10000' elevation. The south rim of the Grand Canyon is at 7500 feet, and even the Canyonlands rims are pretty high.

Rick "thinking the secret to avoiding crowds during the season is to look at magazine pictures from the area and then go to different places, preferably those only reachable on unpaved roads" Denney

[Alan Rabe]

When getting a guide at MV you might try joining another group and splitting the price. I went with a couple of photographers in the next campground and it only cost $50 each. There will probably be several photographers there getting guides who would be willing to split the price.

[al olson]

John,

Some thoughts on your itinerary. I would rule out Bisti for all of the other things you are trying to do in 5 days. Bisti is about 30-35 miles south of Farmington on 371. The entrance is faintly marked on the left just before the road makes a wide sweeping curve to the left. To photograph the hoodoos you want the early morning or late afternoon light. It will take a good piece of the day out of your schedule.

I would also endorse staying in Bluff over Mexican Hat. I would recommend the Desert Rose as someone has mentioned before as a reasonable, presentable motel.

Valley of the Gods is a short drive from Bluff. If you go up to Natural Bridges you will also pass through the Mokee Dugway. Personally, I like photographing in Valley of the Gods. The area is compact, but the vegetation and formations are very striking in black and white. The nice part is that you won't find many tourists in your photographs.

I have done Monument Valley three times, twice with guides and once without. I highly recommend getting a guide. Contact Tom Phillips. He runs a guide service. Ask to be scheduled into a group for one of his photo tours. Guides are the only way you will get into Monument Valley in the off hours such as before sunrise for predawn shooting and after sunset. They are knowledgable about the light and positioning of the sunrise and/or moonrise.

If you have the time (and money) drop into a nearby airport at Kayenta or Durango and hire a pilot to fly you over MV. There are some great aerial opportunities.

Frankly I don't care much for Mesa Verde. It is a long drive (1.5 hours??) off US 160 and there are too many tourists in the way. The Park Service likes to put orange cones around the sites to guide the tourist traffic which really stand out if you are doing color. There are other less visited ruins in the area that are just as photogenic. Even Chaco Canyon is less congested.

Something to think about. I just returned today from three days at Hovenweep. The no-see-ums are just coming out and I have welts all over my arms from their bites. They will be a problem until mid-July. They don't exist everywhere the Four Corners area, but it would be worthwhile to call the visitors' centers to inquire about their prevalence and perhaps use this information to make adjustments to your itinerary.

These are my thoughts.

[John Jarosz]

I would rule out Bisti for all of the other things you are trying to do in 5 days.
Yeah, that will have to wait for another trip.


I would also endorse staying in Bluff over Mexican Hat. I would recommend the Desert Rose
I switched to the Desert Rose in Bluff. I did the Google Street View in Mexican Hat and I can see that there's no town there. Bluff looks like a real place.

Valley of the Gods and Natural Bridges are my prime photo destinations. I do want to avoid crowds. Goosenecks too. I've got to go to Arches. I suppose that's where the challenge from the crowds will be.

I'll drive thru M.V., but that's not gonna be a photo objective. I want to see where all the movies were made and simply see the vistas.


If you have the time (and money) drop into a nearby airport at Kayenta or Durango and hire a pilot to fly you over MV. There are some great aerial opportunities.
WITH MY 8X20? :-) Sorry, couldn't resist.......

Al, and everyone else:

Thanks for all your postings. You've all been a big help. I have altered some of my plans based on all your thoughts.

John

[Drew Wiley]

Whenever another photographer asks me where to go in that part of the world, I say, study all the picture books, all the websites, all the postcards, and when you get there turn around and go the opposite direction! I'll agree that Moab has become
an obnoxious tourist trap, but you can be fifteeen minutes from there, start walking, and probably have complete solitude. The mountain bikers have established routes
which are easy to avoid. But frankly, I'm not about to start talking about my favorite
spots, 'cause I've spent up to a week in certain spectacular canyons without seeing anyone else. With five days you could car shuttle between Arches/Canyonlands and
Mexican Hat and have plenty to see, or just as easily spend five days in one spot.
I think Capitol Reef is one of the most unspoiled Natl Parks in the area, but slightly
off course for your plans (that is, until you see the ghost town of Torrey to the west
of it, with about twenty big boarded-up motels right at the park border, a testament
to the sheer callousness of american enterprise toward natural beauty! - or the
mindless ATV tracks all over the fabulous Cainville buttes to the east). Big country,
and very hard to go wrong with a camera. Just head out. The locals are the typical
Utah mix of either friendly or downright hostile, depending on their attitude toward outsiders (photographers tend to be identified as "environmentalists"- but the east
side of Utah is generally a lot like western Colorado and a lot more friendly than the
Salt Lake, Kanab, and Wasatch areas). I always like to breakfast at some little neighboorhood hole-in-the wall and chat with the local ranchers and Indians. If they are comfortable with you, you can learn about a lot of interesting places to go, at least on the next trip!

[Chauncey Walden]

Chaco Canyon has an astronomical observatory and the back block of Pueblo Bonito at sunset would be stunning on an 8x20. Heed Al's warning about the no-see-ums well. Those little black flies will create welts that will drive you crazy for a week after. I'll second Kerry on the Recapture Lodge and the Twin Rocks Cafe in Bluff. Agreed on January in Moab also. The room that is $25 then will be $85 now and the view from Arches of the snowy La Sal mountains makes for some gorgeous scenery.

[eric black]

If you are coming from out east, you will have an additional advantage that will help you to avoid crowds-stay on eastern time and getting up early isnt too awful. Even at the more cliche sites, the crowds dont typically start arriving until after the sun is fairly well up in the sky (Im guessing sunrise will be around 5:30 am or so when you are there mid-summer which is 7:30 ish for us easterners).

[John Jarosz]

It's funny hearing people living where I do referred to as "Easterners".

[Mark Barendt]

Ouch! When I was there, I paid $10 a night to camp with the same view, and it was $5 a night in the off-season (no showers, though).

The old campground is gone, basically the hotel parking lot now.

I was there a month or so ago and for the new camp the fee was $10, the only amenities were the outhouses.

Short hop to go get food and groceries at Gouldings.

[tgtaylor]

... and the view from Arches of the snowy La Sal mountains makes for some gorgeous scenery.

It's pure dynamite (late afternoon)! Park the car and hop around on the rocks for a composition. I found one about a quarter mile out that gave me a water pocket foreground, the petrified dunes for midground, and the snowy La Sal's in the distant (a good 20+ miles)background. I was shooting all chromes in those days (2005) and how I wish I had "discovered" color negative film back then because I could easily print a 16x20 or 20x24 for a couple of dollars.

Thomas

[rdenney]

It's funny hearing people living where I do referred to as "Easterners".

I live in Virginia. My last trip to Utah was 2003 (too long!). We had to get back at the end of that trip and did in three hard days of driving--800 miles a day from Bryce Canyon to northern Virginia.

The first day was Bryce to Limon, (eastern) Colorado. The second day was Limon to St. Louis, including three weeks in Kansas. The last day was St. Louis to Virginia, passing south of Chicago mid-morning on the third day.

That's why Chicago is "back east" to Utahns, heh, heh.

Rick "who used to live in Texas, only two days from Moab with some visitation in Albuquerque" Denney

[venchka]

Rick's right. "Back East" starts around Amarillo.

[Kirk Keyes]

If you'r going to Natural Bridges, look for the Anasazi ruin thats up along the canyon wall on on the (south?) side of Kachina Bridge. It's not marked, but look for the chain that seems to go nowhere that runs up along the side of the canyon. You'll be happy you followed it.

[Bob Tescione]

John:
In your initial post you had mentioned something about places for "food to go". We've found that, in Moab, sandwiches from the City Market are very good and they'll make them while you wait.

Have a wonderful trip.

Bob Tescione

[Brian Ellis]

I've been to all the areas you mention except Gooseneck, probably a total of maybe 5-6 weeks in all of them combined. So I'm far from an expert on these areas but based on that limited experience I think your plan is much too ambitious for five days. I'd suggest that you pick one of these areas and devote the five days to it rather than jumping from one place to another in an effort to cram everything into such a limited time. Canyonlands might be a good choice because IIRC you can cover a lot of ground without long hikes and you can stay in one place for the entire five days without wasting a lot of time driving from one place to another. Renting a four-wheel drive vehicle if you don't own one would open up a lot more areas for you in Canyonlands. You didn't mention it but Capital (Capitol?) Reef is another place that was well worth 5 or 6 days for me without moving around. But others here know these areas intimiately and could make much better suggestions for a five day time frame than I can.

I've worked out of Bluff twice (stayed in the Recapture Lodge, nice people, nice place). The first time I used a guide service called Far Out Expeditions. They were excellent and highly recommended if you don't have a lot of time to explore on your own and if they can take you to areas in which you're interested. They had a web site last time I looked and you can talk with them ahead of time to make sure they will take you to areas you're interested in. I was mostly interested in obscure Anasazai ruins that I couldn't find on my own but I know they do other things as well.

I also used a guide the two times I was in Monument Valley. I'm not aware of any other way to do anything there unless you're willing to put up with the dust, traffic, and people on the only road you can go on without a guide. You can hire a half day or full day guide from one of the booths set up near the visitor's center but it would be better IMHO to get a guide someone knows and recommends, then book that one in advance. The one I hired from the visitor's center was a ripoff artist, the one I hired on someone's recommendation was excellent (sorry I don't have his contact information). Since you're using a LF camera I don't think a group guide would be feasible.

[John Jarosz]

I thought I would post a follow-up with some comments now that my trip was completed. This was my first trip to this region and I'll go back again soon. Limitless photo opportunities.

Monument Valley: Iconic views everywhere. I had no problems photographing from the 17 mile drive within the tribal park. The new hotel from inside the park is stunning. A magnificent location which is built into the side of small hill. Very unobtrusive. I did not stay there, but it would be very cool to do so. Gouldings is nice as well. Extremely black skies at night. I don't see the value of a guide for a first trip unless you want to be there at sunrise/set. Yes, the 17 mile drive is a little crowded, but it is still pretty empty compared to really crowded tourist locations (Yosemite, etc). For second or third trip I can see the value of a guide.

Bluff: Very good southern headquarters for extreme southeast Utah. Picturesque little town in the middle of nowhere.

Moki Dugway: A road that must be seen to be believed. Very fine vistas from the top. Still can't believe it's a state road. Muley Point is awesome.

Valley of the Gods: Remote mini version of Monument Valley. I saw one other car during a 2-3 hour period. Rough road.

Goosenecks state park: Very bizarre landscape of unimaginable scale to the point of being impossible to photograph. Sounds like a goofy description, but you really have to see this to believe it.

Moab: Very pricey, touristy town; but essential as a base of operations just south of I-70. Hotel prices can be cheap if you look around, but some of the restaurants are nuts.

Arches Nat'l park. Really cool park. No concessions once you are past the entrance. Endless photo opportunities.

Dead Horse Point state park: Unique landscape, but only photo ops are big vista types. Remote. Was mostly cloudy during my visit, which I understand happens often during the afternoon.

The Laurent Martres book is essential because the focus of the book are the sights with visual content and not the tourist interests. Our copy became dog eared during the trip. His advice is always spot on.

Route 128 going east from Moab: Very fine photo ops all along the road. It's a beautiful route with the red cliffs and Colorado river.

Things I could not do because of time: Canyonlands and Natural Bridges state park.
Natural Bridges is remote, and Canyonlands is enormous. Next time.

It's hard to visualize the scale of this area of southeast Utah unless you actually see it. Thanks to all who helped me plan this trip with their comments.

Making photographs with the 8x20 has at least one advantage: The tourists left me alone, acting like I did not even exist. They looked but never even uttered a comment.

John

[chris_4622]

John,

Good to hear you had a successful trip. I look forward to seeing some prints.

chris