Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images [Archive] - Page 6

Andrew O'Neill

6-Apr-2013, 11:05

I also think it's folly to just dismiss those of us who strip the film as "careless film handlers."

I agree. I may have mentioned this earlier, but I enlarged a stripped and unstrapped negative. The stripped negative had an edge in sharpness. So stripping does serve a purpose other than getting rid of scratches. The main problem was the blue base of the film triggering the high contrast emulsion in the paper, resulting in longer printing times. Since I contact print in carbon and kallitype, I do not strip and it is not an issue for me, unless I want to make a digital negative. Then I'll strip... All this talk about stripping feels awkward...:)

DannL

6-Apr-2013, 11:25

We could change the topic from stripping to Pole Dancing. Something I have never tried, but at my age it could be quite the show.

Andrew O'Neill

6-Apr-2013, 11:33

Speaking of pole dancing, a very young PE teacher at the high school I teach at tried to introduce pole dancing to her girls' fitness class. Needless to say, it never got off the ground (insert joke here)

danno@cnwl.igs

6-Apr-2013, 17:01

Tin Can

6-Apr-2013, 20:40

2x3 CSG, two stuck together in the tank, the background is featureless, not with this actually interesting curve of undeveloped film...

I have more drying. These are self shot, with long cable release, studio flash. The lens cracked and went up in smoke.

92769

Jim Fitzgerald

6-Apr-2013, 20:59

love the glowon the pen!

Tin Can

6-Apr-2013, 21:11

lol

love the glowon the pen!

SergeiR

6-Apr-2013, 21:41

Getting "there" quite fast, master Randy :)

SergeiR

6-Apr-2013, 21:44

today in park.. 8x10 Kodak xray, 14 inch Heliar (kirka 1913) wide open, 3" packard shutter in "instant" mode. No filters.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8626983314_407ba162cc_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8626983314/)
Scan-130406-0010www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8626983314/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

Morale - i need to find bloody yellow-green in 82mm ... time to browse ebay for chineese filters again..
(oh its 7:30 in 1+100 Adonal (aka Rodinal) - opened fresh bottle)

Tin Can

6-Apr-2013, 21:49

Thanks, but not happy yet,

I put it on facebook, they like it there.

Getting "there" quite fast, master Randy :)

Tin Can

6-Apr-2013, 22:11

Sergei, Next I will try R09 1/100 at 7:30, may as well copy the best. And I got a fresh bottle, never tried it.

I need to burn up this Ilfosol-3 on 35 mm, I hate that stuff, goes bad way too fast.

Soon, I want to mix all own, out of simple chems. D23, citrus, water...

Using Ken Lee's advice, no point in reinventing the wheel, when I can't drive...

http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/tech/D-23.php

SergeiR

6-Apr-2013, 22:40

I did my own methol-hydrochinon ( whatever spelling is) developer when i was teen, from aero-photography lab chems . I never ever want to do it again :)

Tin Can

6-Apr-2013, 22:51

I don't want exotic, but when I took a college darkroom course 15 years ago the very DIY instructor had giant buckets of raw chems under giant sinks. He wrote the standard formula on the inside of the trays. I always made fresh and would usually do 12 hour sessions. I am just now getting back into wet work and I am new to anything bigger than 35mm. My darkroom stalled over winter and I need to get it done, before summer. I need to hurry...

Now I am in the bathroom, it is a big bathroom, but my new darkroom will be very big. I am actually making the entire loft light tight. My cave. :)

I did my own methol-girdochinon ( whatever spelling is) developer when i was teen, from aero-photography lab chems . I never ever want to do it again :)

Andrew O'Neill

7-Apr-2013, 15:10

He was a she, and no it never got off the ground...

Tin Can

7-Apr-2013, 15:59

so, I am used to can developing under full light and use a iPod app for timer, not such a good idea for tray processing, it rang and lit up anyway...

tenderobject

7-Apr-2013, 16:55

guys, i'm thinking of purchasing xray film this week but i'm a bit anxious about my film getting toast before it gets here. anyone from overseas had tried ordering these film from the US without having a problem? i will send my films to my friend in the us and he will ship the film to me. quite a lot of work but that's my option right now. what do you think guys?

thank you!

SergeiR

7-Apr-2013, 21:03

Today. Overcast, 14 inch heliar, packard shutter, no filter. Kodak 8x10 CSG , 1+100 Rodinal, 7:30m

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8540/8629578979_7d3a6fe54b_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8629578979/)
Scan-130407-0001www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8629578979/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

(scratched a bit.. easy to fix.. i need better tank loading technique)

Tin Can

7-Apr-2013, 22:11

92882

Better exposure. CSG cut to 5X7 with scratches, water drops, dust and moire. My AN glass is either too big or too small. I may go back to 2X3, easier to do 8 sheets in a tank.

92881

Tin Can

7-Apr-2013, 22:15

mmm, image size still the same, tomorrow I will try the URL upload...

SergeiR

8-Apr-2013, 04:55

cool tone variation in beard (or just beard envy.. mine is darn itchy whenever i am trying to get it "real") :)

Tin Can

8-Apr-2013, 06:42

cool tone variation in beard (or just beard envy.. mine is darn itchy whenever i am trying to get it "real") :)

I need a model ASAP. I took a grab shoot of a friend but it didn't come out. :(

SergeiR

8-Apr-2013, 08:13

so, I am used to can developing under full light and use a iPod app for timer, not such a good idea for tray processing, it rang and lit up anyway...
Randy you can use app from digitaltruth guys (Massive DevChart). Its got recipies , so you can customize whatever you do, keep record of attempts & etc and it can do usual white screen + safe green or red light.

Tin Can

8-Apr-2013, 08:30

Randy you can use app from digitaltruth guys (Massive DevChart). Its got recipies , so you can customize whatever you do, keep record of attempts & etc and it can do usual white screen + safe green or red light.
I do have Mas Dev. It's a nice App. Thanks!

I keep records. But I do make mistakes. I am trying to not do to much PS. My local group of imagists prefer a raw damaged look. Got to fit in! I really do not enjoy endless PS. I like APUG's ideals to not post heavy PS work. But I don't know where it stops with this scanning business!

SergeiR

8-Apr-2013, 08:34

No i meant it will help with whole "rang and lit up" :)

As of post.. *sighs*.. Dont get me started.. IMHO sitting there with D&B in photoshop is hell of the lot less straining than sitting with wands, swabs and splashing acid and bleach ;)

Tin Can

8-Apr-2013, 09:18

I agree with you Sergei on PS.

And I will make sure that phone is not in the darkroom, I do not like distractions.

No i meant it will help with whole "rang and lit up" :)

As of post.. *sighs*.. Dont get me started.. IMHO sitting there with D&B in photoshop is hell of the lot less straining than sitting with wands, swabs and splashing acid and bleach ;)

Dave Wooten

8-Apr-2013, 10:58

never cut up anything big. I do have some 14x36 though!jim you need to consider making an adequate camera for that 14 x 36 film:)

Jim Fitzgerald

8-Apr-2013, 17:24

Dave at one time Tri and I were considering it.Even went so far as checking out coverage for lenses. We found severalthat did! Then reality truck. How do you keep the film flat? A vacuum holder.... not thanks. Goes against my KISS principals.

Tin Can

8-Apr-2013, 17:40

Jim, if your rule is to not cut down big sheets, why the big canvas?

Dave at one time Tri and I were considering it.Even went so far as checking out coverage for lenses. We found severalthat did! Then reality truck. How do you keep the film flat? A vacuum holder.... not thanks. Goes against my KISS principals.

md99

8-Apr-2013, 18:13

I've done about 100 sheets of 8x10, all in a BTZS tube. I don't even try to not scratch the rear emulsion when I put it in, but I simply strip that image with bleach. I don't know why some are so afraid of the stripping. It takes me 30 seconds with bleach diluted 1:1 with water. Other than when I do something dumb, I don't have any scratches on the front emulsion.
I would prefer to use 8x10 BTZS tubes also. Do you strip before fixing? after washing? (Sorry if this has been described already, I am still working my way through this monster thread!)
Thanks, Mike

Jim Fitzgerald

8-Apr-2013, 18:18

So many threads to put this image in but I did shoot it on Blue sensitive half speed. 8x10 carbon transfer print. "Listen"

Jim Fitzgerald

8-Apr-2013, 18:21

Strip after I think. I've never done it but that is what you do.

Randy, a 14x17 carbon print from x-ray film is something to see as is a 14x17 carbon transfer portrait from x-ray film. I'm a contact printer and one who does not use a digital workflow at all. My biggest canvass is 14x17 currently!!

Tin Can

8-Apr-2013, 18:22

we really need a nice button

'LIKE'

Tin Can

8-Apr-2013, 18:25

Ok, good to know. Tonight I need to fix my contact printer's new glass, it's in another thread.

I have a long way to go to and little time left, hopefully I get another 20 years to finally make a nice image!

Hope springs eternal.

Strip after I think. I've never done it but that is what you do.

Randy, a 14x17 carbon print from x-ray film is something to see as is a 14x17 carbon transfer portrait from x-ray film. I'm a contact printer and one who does not use a digital workflow at all. My biggest canvass is 14x17 currently!!

Corran

8-Apr-2013, 18:34

Yes, strip after developing/fixing/washing. It's the final step. Okay well I wash again of course.

Jim Fitzgerald

8-Apr-2013, 18:34

Randy, thanks. It is all about the print for me. I developed this in some old D-76 in the dip and dunk tank in the red light. The carbon print is really beautiful in the flesh.

Tin Can

8-Apr-2013, 18:38

Yes, while many of us have good monitors, nothing compares to a real print and never will. imho

Randy, thanks. It is all about the print for me. I developed this in some old D-76 in the dip and dunk tank in the red light. The carbon print is really beautiful in the flesh.

md99

8-Apr-2013, 18:51

Xray film is not panchromatic.
Your eyes will tell you, under a red safelite, if indeed there is any difference at all.
And if you use a tent or change bag- it doesn't matter- that's why no notches
So you can develop and handle under red safelite?
(Sorry this is all new to me)
Cheers
Mike

Jim Fitzgerald

8-Apr-2013, 19:59

Mike, yes. Load and unload film in the red light and do the entire developing process in the red light. Now because the film has emulsion on both sides you need to be careful loading and unloading the film. If you use a tray to develop do one sheet at a time and make sure it has a flat bottom. The ridges will show through if you don't. I use tanks for my 8x10's and do four sheets at a time. Just about any developer works. Water stop and fix like normal.

Andrew O'Neill

8-Apr-2013, 21:45

... and strip after you have dried the film.

photoevangelist

9-Apr-2013, 00:29

So many threads to put this image in but I did shoot it on Blue sensitive half speed. 8x10 carbon transfer print. "Listen"

Very nice, Jim!

Jim Fitzgerald

9-Apr-2013, 06:30

Lee, thanks. I have a system that works for me. What using x-ray film is all about is finding your system that works for you.

Tin Can

9-Apr-2013, 16:15

X-Ray film processor...

Found this, honest I was not looking for it. I am 2000 miles from Portland, if I was there I would check it out.

Anybody know anything about these?

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pho/3733596882.html

SergeiR

9-Apr-2013, 20:53

from last night, and b/c i feel like crossposting a bit ;))

8x10 Kodak CSG.
14 inch heliar at about f11 (its damn hard to figure it out when lights in studio are shut down)

8m in 1+100 Adonal/Rodinal.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8124/8635769175_e5560c1d3e_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8635769175/)
Scan-130409-0002www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8635769175/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

tenderobject

10-Apr-2013, 12:40

anyone could answer my question? :D

Andrew O'Neill

10-Apr-2013, 12:54

tenderobject,

Have the film sent by fedex. I'm sure if you send it snail mail, it will be xrayed.

tenderobject

10-Apr-2013, 12:56

how about USPS priority mail? would it be xrayed? yikes!

tenderobject,

Have the film sent by fedex. I'm sure if you send it snail mail, it will be xrayed.

Tin Can

10-Apr-2013, 13:03

Inside the USA, film seems fairly safe from the X-Rays, but we have no way of knowing what happens where you are at.

Perhaps make a small test order.

how about USPS priority mail? would it be xrayed? yikes!

tenderobject

10-Apr-2013, 13:18

I will try to get a box. I had some 120 films and 1 box 4x5 sent by my friend to me here (Iran) but i haven't checked the films yet. I'll test a roll/sheet hopefully this week. Hopefully it's all fine :(

How i wish i could get some X-ray films here.

By the way, Anyone tried the Kodak Xray Films from CXS? The green HRT from fuji is out of stock. Any other Xray films you could recommed? I will do a lot of landscape and a few Portraits for it.

Thanks guys! Pardon, I haven't read all these xray films threads. I will give it some time this week.

Inside the USA, film seems fairly safe from the X-Rays, but we have no way of knowing what happens where you are at.

Perhaps make a small test order.

Tin Can

10-Apr-2013, 13:26

I have only very recently started using Kodak CSG green from CXS. Very fast delivery here, Chicago. Stuff works fine, but I need to learn much more. I have cut it up into 2x3 and 5x7 for experimenting.

Shoot a sheet of 4x5 and see if it is OK. Heck, don't shoot it, just process it without exposing it and it should be clear, if it's not clear it may have been rayed...fogging I think is the term.

I will try to get a box. I had some 120 films and 1 box 4x5 sent by my friend to me here (Iran) but i haven't checked the films yet. I'll test a roll/sheet hopefully this week. Hopefully it's all fine :(

How i wish i could get some X-ray films here.

By the way, Anyone tried the Kodak Xray Films from CXS? The green HRT from fuji is out of stock. Any other Xray films you could recommed? I will do a lot of landscape and a few Portraits for it.

Thanks guys! Pardon, I haven't read all these xray films threads. I will give it some time this week.

tenderobject

10-Apr-2013, 13:30

There are a lot of kinds in their website i don't know which to choose. I like the Green HRT by Fuji. There is a few boxes on Ebay. I will get one from her. CXS run out of the 8x10 already so i'm not sure if there are other kinds that are the same with Green HRT. I love the images made by Corran, Sergeir and others. I hope i could make something like that soon!

About the 4x5 sheet. I'll try to process it tonight. I'll just put it in the developer then fix it? I haven't done this before. :D

I have only very recently started using Kodak CSG green from CXS. Very fast delivery here, Chicago. Stuff works fine, but I need to learn much more. I have cut it up into 2x3 and 5x7 for experimenting.

Shoot a sheet of 4x5 and see if it is OK. Heck, don't shoot it, just process it without exposing it and it should be clear, if it's not clear it may have been rayed...fogging I think is the term.

Tin Can

10-Apr-2013, 13:39

Yes, just do it in total darkness, not under red light and develop as if it was exposed. The results will show if your film is good.

There are a lot of kinds in their website i don't know which to choose. I like the Green HRT by Fuji. There is a few boxes on Ebay. I will get one from her. CXS run out of the 8x10 already so i'm not sure if there are other kinds that are the same with Green HRT. I love the images made by Corran, Sergeir and others. I hope i could make something like that soon!

About the 4x5 sheet. I'll try to process it tonight. I'll just put it in the developer then fix it? I haven't done this before. :D

tenderobject

10-Apr-2013, 13:42

Thanks Randy! Will do that later. :)

Yes, just do it in total darkness, not under red light and develop as if it was exposed. The results will show if your film is good.

Andrew O'Neill

10-Apr-2013, 15:01

how about USPS priority mail? would it be xrayed? yikes!

I don't know about USPS (outgoing), but Canada Post xrays incoming mail from outsides its borders, especially from "certain" countries. I feel more comfortable using a courier... except UPS! Gougers!

Andrew O'Neill

10-Apr-2013, 15:11

By the way, Anyone tried the Kodak Xray Films from CXS?

I have used it. It's excellent.

tenderobject

10-Apr-2013, 15:59

I have used it. It's excellent.

thanks andrew.

there are 2 kinds of green film in kodak.

http://cxsonline.com/text/summarypage.tmpl?command=search&sn=485288&db=../databases/products.db&eqcategorydatarq=10011002&eqmasterskudatarq=[blank]&skusort=1&cart=1365634627375398&location=10011002&startat=1&max=15

ortho green and green latitude. what should i choose here? i like how fuji HRT green looks like. i might get one from the bay and see if it will get here properly haha. :(

Tin Can

10-Apr-2013, 16:21

The CXS web site is as confusing as Kodak packaging. I can't tell what I have and which one I ordered. I think I ordered Ortho Green. My is 7X17 Kodak Clinic Select Green CSG 18X43 cm REF 604 1974. Expires 2/2014

thanks andrew.

there are 2 kinds of green film in kodak.

http://cxsonline.com/text/summarypage.tmpl?command=search&sn=485288&db=../databases/products.db&eqcategorydatarq=10011002&eqmasterskudatarq=[blank]&skusort=1&cart=1365634627375398&location=10011002&startat=1&max=15

ortho green and green latitude. what should i choose here? i like how fuji HRT green looks like. i might get one from the bay and see if it will get here properly haha. :(

Andrew O'Neill

10-Apr-2013, 18:17

ortho green and green latitude. what should i choose here? i like how fuji HRT green looks like.

I have the green latitude. Some people are using HRT green and getting lovely results with it. I should scoop up a box of it before it's "out of stock". I get a bad feeling when I see "out of stock" messages, as the xray industry is moving more and more to digital (and why wouldn't they? Look at the savings and convenience). "out of stock" could very well mean, "discontinued".

tenderobject

10-Apr-2013, 18:23

I just bought the HRT off ebay. I know it will get sold soon. I can't buy another box since i just want to test if the xray film will get toast before it arrives here! I think it is worth the gamble haha. The cheapest 8x10 film is almost 3-4 times expensive than the xray film. I'll inform you guys about the film when it arrives! Hopefully next month!

Believe me, even in this country they are now using Digital Xray already hence i might have problem getting xray film here! :D

I have the green latitude. Some people are using HRT green and getting lovely results with it. I should scoop up a box of it before it's "out of stock". I get a bad feeling when I see "out of stock" messages, as the xray industry is moving more and more to digital (and why wouldn't they? Look at the savings and convenience). "out of stock" could very well mean, "discontinued".

Tin Can

10-Apr-2013, 18:30

Hey do the test, we want to know!

I just bought the HRT off ebay. I know it will get sold soon. I can't buy another box since i just want to test if the xray film will get toast before it arrives here! I think it is worth the gamble haha. The cheapest 8x10 film is almost 3-4 times expensive than the xray film. I'll inform you guys about the film when it arrives! Hopefully next month!

Believe me, even in this country they are now using Digital Xray already hence i might have problem getting xray film here! :D

tenderobject

10-Apr-2013, 18:33

Will do Randy! As soon as it gets here. It will be sent to my friend first then my friend would send me the package. I had my 8x10 camera there already we are just waiting for the other stuff to arrive.

Hey do the test, we want to know!

SergeiR

13-Apr-2013, 18:12

8x10 kodak csg, 14 inch heliar

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8379/8646186691_ea2bc82e73_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8646186691/)
Scan-130413-0010www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8646186691/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

SergeiR

14-Apr-2013, 16:59

Ok.. here is odd duck one.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8114/8650616552_d9e56acffb_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8650616552/)
Scan-130414-0007www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8650616552/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

I think i accidentally stumbled on development process step that i have never thought about.

Its second time i did that mistake and its second time i am getting images with seriously decreased contrast in outdoors shoot - managed to open tank after development stopped, before fixer poured in (i like to flush leftovers of whatever in tank completely and typically do that in darkness, but i once again managed to do development while sleepy).

Got to try to do it on purpose :)

Tin Can

14-Apr-2013, 17:06

So a after dev, pre-flash.

SergeiR

14-Apr-2013, 17:22

So a after dev, pre-flash.
aye

Tin Can

14-Apr-2013, 17:31

It's working well, I think I can see through her cloths, x-ray vision every time...

Nice Image.

I shot trees all day.;(

We finally had a real nice day. I shot the same tree with 3 different cameras...

aye

Corran

14-Apr-2013, 17:34

Seems very grainy (considering the enlargement factor). It's still neat. I've gotten similar grain from over-exposed shots pulled quite a bit in development.

SergeiR

14-Apr-2013, 17:39

Seems very grainy (considering the enlargement factor). It's still neat. I've gotten similar grain from over-exposed shots pulled quite a bit in development.

yep... as soon as density comes out in csg - grain starts in scan.. I normally hardly even notice it on studio shots when exposure is correct.

But grain rarely bothers me till it really extreme.. I mean i grew up in days when enlarging 35mm shot from 135 iso soviet produced film to even 4x5 was like hitting yourself with shovel... :)

Tin Can

14-Apr-2013, 17:49

Made me laugh!

My Bulgarian friend, filmmaker Ilko Davidov has some stories!

I used to work with Russian mechanics.

yep... as soon as density comes out in csg - grain starts in scan.. I normally hardly even notice it on studio shots when exposure is correct.

But grain rarely bothers me till it really extreme.. I mean i grew up in days when enlarging 35mm shot from 135 iso soviet produced film to even 4x5 was like hitting yourself with shovel... :)

photoevangelist

15-Apr-2013, 17:40

Just finished up my first box of 100 sheets of Fuji HR-A and picked up a second one.
Student portraits are going well. I haven't made any contact prints yet. I'm going to do all the shooting first, then contact print - and schedule any re-do shoots. I've got around 30 portraits finished. It's contract renewal time, so I thought I'd take a picture with x-ray of my ugly mug to put on my updated resume. This isn't a purists self portrait. I had Changhwan, our TA, who is getting ready to take the dive into 8x10 help frame my face with the crude facial outline drawing I have on the back of my ground glass.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8116/8652881499_80b4a78d4a_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/lee_smathers/8652881499/)
Assisted Self Portrait (http://www.flickr.com/photos/lee_smathers/8652881499/) by Lee Smathers (http://www.flickr.com/people/lee_smathers/), on Flickr
Fuji HR-A @160 + Yellow Filter, Rodinal 1:50, 4 min (tray developed), Contact printed on Ilford RC Paper with a #2 filter

Tin Can

15-Apr-2013, 17:57

photoevangelist

15-Apr-2013, 18:48

Gad Lee!

Don't scare us like that. It is always so odd to finally see an image of someone we have only written with. I see Changhwan has the bug.

I hope, Changhwan, becomes a wonderful photographer!

Indeed, Randy. I showed Changhwan your self portraits. It was nice to put a face with your name.

Leigh

15-Apr-2013, 21:10

Ok.. here is odd duck one.
If that's a duck I'll start raising ducks.

Lovely shot, Sergei. You certainly know some exceptional models.

- Leigh

SergeiR

15-Apr-2013, 21:36

If that's a duck I'll start raising ducks.

Lovely shot, Sergei. You certainly know some exceptional models.

- Leigh

Thanks. Actually this was first time when i got chance to meet her and shoot.. We kept conversing about trying something for forever, but it kinda kept getting postponed. I am going to start processing rest of film tomorrow - got stack of holders to go through from 4 sittings, as i am getting couple of each at the time.. ;)

This is one from day before, usual Rodinal 1+100, 7:30.. Convertible Symmar 300mm

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/8651094500_ecf7d1815d_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8651094500/)
Scan-130414-0010www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8651094500/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

SergeiR

15-Apr-2013, 21:37

Just finished up my first box of 100 sheets of Fuji HR-A and picked up a second one.
Student portraits are going well. I haven't made any contact prints yet. I'm going to do all the shooting first, then contact print - and schedule any re-do shoots. I've got around 30 portraits finished. It's contract renewal time, so I thought I'd take a picture with x-ray of my ugly mug to put on my updated resume. This isn't a purists self portrait. I had Changhwan, our TA, who is getting ready to take the dive into 8x10 help frame my face with the crude facial outline drawing I have on the back of my ground glass.
..
Fuji HR-A @160 + Yellow Filter, Rodinal 1:50, 4 min (tray developed), Contact printed on Ilford RC Paper with a #2 filter

Worked quite nicely.

Jim Fitzgerald

16-Apr-2013, 08:24

Tin Can

16-Apr-2013, 08:30

Very nice Jim, so we don't need to save those portrait lenses for people...

btw, some of us do know what you look like!

photoevangelist

16-Apr-2013, 14:18

Lee, so now I'll recognize you! Sorry, but I prefer Sergi's models and you sure won't see my aging mug anytime soon. Instead I'll have to post this one. Not a lovely as the models but what can I do. Half speed blue with the 305 Kodak Portrait lens wide open.

Jim, I'm relieved that you prefer Sergi's models. Anyone that didn't would have to have their head checked.

We got the 12" 4.5 Ektar for Changhwan, the TA. He's going to be doing still lifes. Is it anything like the Kodak portrait lens?

Curt

16-Apr-2013, 21:04

Thanks. Actually this was first time when i got chance to meet her and shoot.. We kept conversing about trying something for forever, but it kinda kept getting postponed. I am going to start processing rest of film tomorrow - got stack of holders to go through from 4 sittings, as i am getting couple of each at the time.. ;)

This is one from day before, usual Rodinal 1+100, 7:30.. Convertible Symmar 300mm

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/8651094500_ecf7d1815d_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8651094500/)
Scan-130414-0010www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8651094500/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

Sergei, I have a Symmar 300 convertible, does yours have coarse filter threads rather than fine? I just got mine, it was used very little and is like new in the blue box. The filter threads are course so getting filters is going to be interesting. Schneider says converted to 500mm it's a little soft and perfect for portraits. Have you used it converted? Beautiful photo by the way!
Curt

SergeiR

16-Apr-2013, 22:01

Sergei, I have a Symmar 300 convertible, does yours have coarse filter threads rather than fine? I just got mine, it was used very little and is like new in the blue box. The filter threads are course so getting filters is going to be interesting. Schneider says converted to 500mm it's a little soft and perfect for portraits. Have you used it converted? Beautiful photo by the way!
Curt

Thank you. Actually i got mine with bent filter rim which i have not tried to fix yet :) But yeah, i think its coarse thread, i will check a bit later tomorrow (lens in car, and i am just too lazy to go there ).
In all honesty - i never tried to use it at 500mm other than to figure out its focusing range and decided "meh". But then "soft" is great for portraits , isnt it ;)
I mean i have 360mm Symmar-S and its too damn sharp, imho. Hell, even heliar with all its portraity goodness can give one razor sharp results at certain distances and apertures.

SergeiR

18-Apr-2013, 08:56

Hmm.. I am about to order couple more boxes of film (went through first 100 like maniac and now about half way through another box..).
So question: did anyone compared difference in response between blue film and green one? Like side to side? I so far used CSG (green) but i am getting curious about blue one (albeit its a bit pricier).

Jim Fitzgerald

18-Apr-2013, 09:29

Jim, I'm relieved that you prefer Sergi's models. Anyone that didn't would have to have their head checked.

We got the 12" 4.5 Ektar for Changhwan, the TA. He's going to be doing still lifes. Is it anything like the Kodak portrait lens?

Lee, they are different lenses. The Kodak Portrait lens has one element at the rear and the Ilex 5 Shutter at the front. Still have him shoot it at different F stops to find the sweet spot.

Tri Tran

18-Apr-2013, 10:58

Lee, they are different lenses. The Kodak Portrait lens has one element at the rear and the Ilex 5 Shutter at the front. Still have him shoot it at different F stops to find the sweet spot.

Yours actually is missing the front element but who cares right? Nice shot and nice print .

SergeiR

18-Apr-2013, 11:14

Yours actually is missing the front element but who cares right? Nice shot and nice print .
There is no front element in 403mm kodak portrait lens afaik, at least from all pictures i have seen. Was always puzzled about it.

Jason Greenberg Motamedi

18-Apr-2013, 11:26

These are very different lenses. The Kodak 12" f4.5 Ektar is a Tessar-type lens with both front and rear elements. The Kodak Portrait is an achromat, with only a rear element.

Jim Fitzgerald

18-Apr-2013, 19:28

Yours actually is missing the front element but who cares right? Nice shot and nice print .

Tri, right!!! That is why I got such a great deal on it!!!

Tin Can

18-Apr-2013, 20:07

There are 12" and 16" Kodak Portrait lens, Kodak advertised as for respectively 5x7 and 8x10. Is that a good rule of thumb? Will a 12" 305 mm f4.8 Kodak Portrait cover 8X10? Or keep to 5X7?

Jim Fitzgerald

18-Apr-2013, 20:30

Randy, my 305 covers my 8x10 at portrait distances no problem. Great lenses. The 305 is in a Universal 5 and the 405 is in Barrel only. It is a big hunk of glass. One on the Bay right now. Not a bad price either. I stole my Kodak 305 Portrait lens so I'm very happy.

Tin Can

18-Apr-2013, 20:55

I got a good deal on a 12" in shutter also. Shush, we need to talk quietly or Corran will insist I sell it since I have not shot it yet. :( Not selling, getting ready to shoot it.

I have set it up and gazed through it, but I need a good subject. Soft focus is new to me.

Thanks for the info!

Randy, my 305 covers my 8x10 at portrait distances no problem. Great lenses. The 305 is in a Universal 5 and the 405 is in Barrel only. It is a big hunk of glass. One on the Bay right now. Not a bad price either. I stole my Kodak 305 Portrait lens so I'm very happy.

Jim Fitzgerald

18-Apr-2013, 21:11

Most of the recent images I've shot are with mine. Need to take it outside and let it breathe!

SergeiR

18-Apr-2013, 21:58

burned 4 sheets today, wanted to experiment with different dullutions/times/ratings.. Wanted to see if i can get tones close to what i see in Karsh photos (yeah, i got album yesterday.. i am that impressionable)

So, measured f7.1 , shot as f8 on 10 inch Wollensak , rated at iso34 ( according to measuring thingy i needed -1.5 Ev for bellows factor,so i figured its close enough when going from iso100).

Developed in 1+200 rodinal, for 5 minutes with unidrum on motor base. Produces fairly thin negative though. Fair warning. Peak of contrast with 1+200 seems to be around 3:30 in tray (i dorked with tray development before sticking last two into drum).

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8251/8662560448_4da64d7052_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8662560448/)
Scan-130418-0001www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8662560448/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

(PS: yes, it is self portrait, hence certain focusing issues.)

Tin Can

18-Apr-2013, 22:31

Good one, I like black vignetting. Self portraits are tough on many levels, not just focus. I have one I did with AF digi, I like. The newer Nikons lock on a face and follow you. It's spooky. I think I said before I set a 23" monitor rotated to portrait on a studio stand and let people shoot themselves with a remote. Kinda fun.

Now if I could get a sitter, to remain available for GG viewing...all day...

SergeiR

18-Apr-2013, 22:44

Good one, I like black vignetting.
thanks. Quadra head and grid kinda will do that vignettting for you ;)

Michael Graves

19-Apr-2013, 05:03

I wonder if my wife will let me have a pet duck. She has a dog!

Ok.. here is odd duck one.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8114/8650616552_d9e56acffb_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8650616552/)
Scan-130414-0007www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8650616552/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

I think i accidentally stumbled on development process step that i have never thought about.

Its second time i did that mistake and its second time i am getting images with seriously decreased contrast in outdoors shoot - managed to open tank after development stopped, before fixer poured in (i like to flush leftovers of whatever in tank completely and typically do that in darkness, but i once again managed to do development while sleepy).

Got to try to do it on purpose :)

ImSoNegative

19-Apr-2013, 06:52

very nice

SergeiR

19-Apr-2013, 19:32

and here we go 1+200, 15 minutes..

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8266/8663651757_3811a2f1b7_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8663651757/)
Scan-130419-0006www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8663651757/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

(yes, fingers on left hand are a bit odd, when you look around white.. they do show up fine in print and if photo surrounded by gray..)

SergeiR

20-Apr-2013, 17:58

finally. something i promissed to do

Curt - to answer your question about filters on 300mm convertible Symmar - seems like easiest (and proper?) way to do it - use rear element threads. They are fine threaded and work with 77mm filters (which i happen to have ;)).

now, Kenko yellow-green, Kodak CSG @ iso 100, rodinal 1+100 10m. Uppermentioned Symmar.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8667168590_ac7e0f0ee2_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8667168590/)
Scan-130420-0001www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8667168590/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

Carl J

20-Apr-2013, 20:20

Sergei,

Wow! Lovely tonality with yellow-green filter. Very nice.

Curt

21-Apr-2013, 00:50

SergeiR

21-Apr-2013, 07:39

;) Reason why i got my set of 77 is b/c i am shooting RZ ;)

cepwin

21-Apr-2013, 08:13

Jim and Vaughn...great images. Vaughn, there is something different about how your images look in terms of contrast, etc. that seems different than what I"m used to...the fact they're blue sensitive?

Corran

21-Apr-2013, 09:17

SergeiR

21-Apr-2013, 10:40

Learn something new every day. Never noticed the rear filter threads on my Symmar-S...BUT 77mm filters, while they are the right size, won't thread onto it? Is it a different thread pitch than normal? Not the convertible one though, but that shouldn't matter?

Well.. that German engineering for you.. Logic might be that since its not convertible you got to use front ones.. You can also just cheat in same way as i do with Radar lens (same 77mm deal, but no threads) - i.e use gaffer tape, when size is right, but no threads there or threads are different, like in your case ;)

Corran

21-Apr-2013, 10:57

Yeah I've done that trick with the Radar. Oh well, I sure am not buying the 105mm filters for the Symmar! I barely use it - I prefer the Radar.

Curt

21-Apr-2013, 17:10

On my Symmar 300mm the 77mm filters screw right into the rear element. It's convenient given the alternative larger size filters and cost plus duplication.

SergeiR

21-Apr-2013, 18:27

Might be difference between convertibles and nonconvertibles.. I cant even try anything on 360 Symmar-S b/c lens is sticking out too much in rear.

But i can not stop using Symmars - they are my backups in case when i need faster pace shooting and when ambient has to be used along with flash. Or shooting in bright conditions when i cant do hand triggering.

SergeiR

21-Apr-2013, 18:49

And now for something completely different ;)

overexposed by about 2 stops (well.. it is packard, and .. you know.. one can only hope to get 1/8th right)

Cooke processing 19 inch lens that i got a bit ago, and decided to get out today, as even thought i can get above fences - getting FAR reach is issue with 8x10 :)

Rodinal 1+100, 4m
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8537/8670781874_6db204827a_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8670781874/)
Scan-130421-0002www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8670781874/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

northcarolinajack

22-Apr-2013, 10:07

photoevangelist

22-Apr-2013, 14:44

After reading about shooting X-ray film on LFF I decided to try the Kodak B/RA Single Emulsion film. One reason was all the discussion about scratches on double emulsion. My only way to process is by using Beseler drums with motor base.
I started with my normal HC110 at 50/1 for various times, from 8 to 11 minutes. The results were fair, but highlights were bad. I then switched to Caffenol-C in drum including motor base. The results were the same with times from 8 to 15 minutes.
So I shot the Lenten Roses with my Super Graflex and lens 203mm Kodak Ektar at F11, 1/50 using ASA 200 for film speed. The processing used Caffenol-C at 70 degrees for 5 minutes. This is the best results I have had. Could note get the temperature down to the goal of 68 trying to mix only 8 total ounces.
Please comment.

Jack www.facebook.com/pages/Jack-Harris-Photography/109348465760954

Looks great to me, Jack! Looking forward to seeing more of your work here! I'd love to get some of that single sided emulsion xray. I haven't found any of it available in Korea. Caffenol is great. I'd use it more but mixing it takes time and when I'm processing 12-18 sheets individually, time is something I don't have. Rodinal is great because its so easy to mix. 1:50 is my sweet spot. HC-110, I hear, is better at 1:100 or 1:200.

photoevangelist

22-Apr-2013, 14:48

But now that you've got your developer/times nailed, I'd just keep going with that. Film tests can be boring. I like what you've got with Caffenol and this film. Very nice tones.

gth

22-Apr-2013, 19:06

HAs anyone used Kodak MIN-R EV Mammography film or AGFA Mamoray HDR-C film?

Raffay

23-Apr-2013, 07:13

Hi, I just want to ask you guys a question, when you say I can cut the x-ray film in safe light, would any red light bulb do or is safe light some special type of red light.

Cheers

BarryS

25-Apr-2013, 20:10

HAs anyone used Kodak MIN-R EV Mammography film or AGFA Mamoray HDR-C film?

I'm testing both Fuji AD-M and the Kodak MIN-R EV films. My first batch of Fuji is hanging up to dry and it's really contrasty stuff. I haven't seen negs like these since I used Kodalith. It's going to take some work to tame this stuff and bring the contrast and density down to manageable levels. I've shot with some Fuji green normal x-ray film and it seemed much easier to use. Exposure with the Fuji AD-M seems like it needs to be very precise. I'm developing in Pyrocat-HD, which is very forgiving and gives me nice negs with just about anything I throw in it.

I have a feeling the Kodak is going to be similar, because the customers expect x-ray products to be fairly similar across manufacturers. Gotta test it though. Probably bought too much of this without testing some samples first. It's mostly metric sizes, which is a pain. I got it so I could develop it in a Jobo Expert drum, but I seem to create three problems for every one I solve. :rolleyes:

Tin Can

25-Apr-2013, 20:16

SergeiR

26-Apr-2013, 05:11

Randy, ah, but you decided to use Fuji film. i think they are quite different with Kodak in formed response.. I just lucked out and sticked with Kodak since i started.. Mine isnt mammography - i dont see much point in 8x10 for it, as the price ends up being same as normal film. Regular Xray however is cheaper.

And its not like i dont screw it up every now and then :) I have taught mysellf from books and forums all that LF stuff and got loooong road ahead, and i LOVE it :)

premortho

26-Apr-2013, 06:55

The really only thing I think is great about it is the price. Sergei makes wonderful images from it, but I am nowhere in his league, I may actually be tied to his anchor, under the sea...

I am shooting Arista for a while to cheer me up, LF rewards are where you find them...

Randy, try a 2X yellow filter, light yellow. Orthochromatic film really responds to filters. Full blue film does not. But even blue x-ray film is ortho, but not as much as the green stuff.

Tin Can

26-Apr-2013, 08:20

I am using Kodak Green. The only LF Kodak I can afford. I will try 2x yellow filter. I stopped for a bit. I ordered raw chem to reduce expenses even more. So much to do. So little time.

Randy, try a 2X yellow filter, light yellow. Orthochromatic film really responds to filters. Full blue film does not. But even blue x-ray film is ortho, but not as much as the green stuff.

SergeiR

26-Apr-2013, 09:06

Ops. I thought you were using Fuji. Hmm. I wonder if something in mixing or processing makes difference.. But then again - i think you were starting to get some good results, you just gave up too soon ;)

Tin Can

26-Apr-2013, 09:56

I am far from giving up!

However, I must prepare my motorcycle, Spring is here.

I have been using standard Ilford chem, soon I will mix my own. Raw chems coming soon, to a darkroom I know!

Ops. I thought you were using Fuji. Hmm. I wonder if something in mixing or processing makes difference.. But then again - i think you were starting to get some good results, you just gave up too soon ;)

Raffay

26-Apr-2013, 09:58

Any idea what film speed I should use?

9408794088

Cheers
Raffay

Tin Can

26-Apr-2013, 10:08

I'm using red LED's and never turn them off as they consume 1.2 watts. 2 are plenty for a large bathroom/darkroom.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-decorative/led-night-light-bulb/448/1499/

Hi, I just want to ask you guys a question, when you say I can cut the x-ray film in safe light, would any red light bulb do or is safe light some special type of red light.

Cheers

Raffay

26-Apr-2013, 10:14

Any idea what film speed I should use?

9408794088

Cheers
Raffay

Also, how long I should develop it for in D23 at around 25 deg Celsius.

Cheers

Raffay

SergeiR

26-Apr-2013, 10:18

grrreat ;)

BarryS

26-Apr-2013, 19:44

I shot round 2 with the Fuji mammo film today and developed this evening. I'm beginning to think this stuff behaves a lot like ortho litho film--very slow with a steep curve. I shot at EI 50 and I think it could use another couple stops--maybe EI 12. I dropped the development time from 13 minutes in 1:1:100 pyrocat HD to 7 minutes and the negs look just as dense. Maybe go to 1:1:200 next or mix up some Soemarko LC-1 (continuous tone ortho litho developer). On the bright side, some of these negs should be perfect for salt prints.

Raffay

27-Apr-2013, 03:35

Here is my first x-ray film shot:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8541/8684772591_0750eef57b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/february71/8684772591/)
Hayaa (http://www.flickr.com/photos/february71/8684772591/) by february71 (http://www.flickr.com/people/february71/), on Flickr

Green X-ray film, shot @ ISO 50, f8 1/4. Developed in D23 stock for 4.5 mins @ 30C. Scanned with Epson 4990, level adjustment & spot healing PS. Not Stripped.

Please comment and what is this HX in the film, something like a watermark of the film brand, but why would they do that. Please check the following points:

1. Is the film ok, I mean not fogged, just want to make sure as i cut it in iPad App safelight+
2. Exposure is ISO 50 setting ok
3. Development

Cheers
Raffay

Tin Can

27-Apr-2013, 07:50

Hi Raffay,

Looking good, nice image and your subject did not move!

It is impossible for me to answer your questions, as I simply don't know.

I would make another image asap and see if HX shows again in the same place. Maybe it is an x-ray mark from a shipping inspection?

Good progress!

Raffay

27-Apr-2013, 12:25

Thank you Randy. I have made another image will process it tomorrow.

Raffay

27-Apr-2013, 12:26

Just noticed, if you look at the image of the film box I posted above it says HX :)

Tin Can

27-Apr-2013, 12:42

Missed that also. Still, I doubt the manufacture desired it to appear on each sheet. Still might be some sort of burn through.

Just noticed, if you look at the image of the film box I posted above it says HX :)

SergeiR

27-Apr-2013, 18:24

I can scan print too, Jim ;) Just sayin'... ;)

8x10 kodak csg shot at 50, rodinal 1+100, 4:30m. Yellow-green filter.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8405/8687862746_51c0b80bd9_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8687862746/)
Scan-130427-0004www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8687862746/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

Peter De Smidt

27-Apr-2013, 19:38

You do great work, Sergei! Where did you get the film?

SergeiR

27-Apr-2013, 20:08

You do great work, Sergei! Where did you get the film?

thanks. Its usual suspect - zz medical. I actually found it on my own, just by typing search in google.. later realized its listed here as one of recommended suppliers ;)

Jim Fitzgerald

27-Apr-2013, 21:06

Raffay

27-Apr-2013, 22:06

Hi Jim, any thoughts on my post?

Cheers

Raffay

md99

28-Apr-2013, 12:56

Hi, I just want to ask you guys a question, when you say I can cut the x-ray film in safe light, would any red light bulb do or is safe light some special type of red light.

Kodak recommends a dark red GBX-2 safelight filter, which absorbs everything less than 600 nm wavelength:
94205

A red LED bulb costs less than $5 and transmits little if any light less than 60 nm.
94206

Jim Noel

28-Apr-2013, 13:55

I suggest you develop a sheet from near the middle of the box to see if the imprint is still present. It does't need to be exposed, just developed.

Jim Fitzgerald

28-Apr-2013, 14:02

Hi Jim, any thoughts on my post?

Cheers

Raffay

Raffay, first off I like the portrait you posted. Nice composition and the range of tones look good. I have never had anything like what you have on the negative before? I would use a different safelight as well. X-ray film can be different sometimes. As other's have said try a piece from the middle of the box and develop it in the dark would be my suggestion?
Let us know.

SergeiR

28-Apr-2013, 18:33

Hi Jim, any thoughts on my post?

Cheers

Raffay

security x-ray in postal service

Curt

28-Apr-2013, 21:45

Raffay

28-Apr-2013, 22:48

Hello everyone, thank you for your responses, I did post this image in another thread namely April Portraits, and one of the member nailed it down. If you look at the image of the box I posted, it has the same markings as in the film. As he pointed out and Jim also, the safelight app I used was not safe enough and during cutting I had the box underneath the film, hence it slightly got exposed during that process, I think in future I would cut in dark, I think I can manage. Or as md99 pointed out I will try a red LED light, maybe my charger indicator light would do.

X-Ray's are pretty common here in Pakistan, I just went to a lab and requested them for a sheet, and the guy there was helpful enough to give me one, and said I can get whenever I wanted to. He has given me the light tight box and has asked me to bring it along next time I want a film, so film is not going to be an issue.

Cheers

Raffay

Andrew O'Neill

30-Apr-2013, 07:55

Who needs to shoot with an ancient lens when a modern Nikkor 300 will do just fine? Green Lat developed in pyrocat-hd in a flat-bottomed tray. Kallitype.

Andrew O'Neill

30-Apr-2013, 08:46

The DR is considerably lower than a negative for carbon transfer... interesting.

Andrew O'Neill

30-Apr-2013, 11:17

Raffay, are you tray developing, hangers... ? I ask because those marks on the right-hand side seem to be from the development process.

Raffay

30-Apr-2013, 11:19

Hi, I am developing in a tank.

Andrew O'Neill

30-Apr-2013, 11:28

What tank?

Raffay

30-Apr-2013, 11:33

FR tank 1.5 litres

94344 94345

Cheers

Raffay

Andrew O'Neill

30-Apr-2013, 11:54

Do you agitate by inversion?

Andrew O'Neill

30-Apr-2013, 11:58

Whoa ya... I just noticed the HX on the negative!! Is that on all of them??

Andrew O'Neill

30-Apr-2013, 12:01

I also like how this film renders green. The wheel barrow is dark green but is rendered quite light here.

Randy

30-Apr-2013, 12:04

I have used that tank before. "Marks" on the sides of the image is due to over development on the edges / under development in the center because you can't invert that tank since it is not sealed. All you can do is rock/slosh it.

Raffay

30-Apr-2013, 12:05

No I agitate by just turning it, as it is not sealed, and if I invert then it will spill. Yes the HX is on all of them, and as pointed out earlier the safelight wasn't safe and hence the film got exposed while I was cutting it.

Raffay

30-Apr-2013, 12:07

So is there a solution since it can't be inverted. I mean do I need to agitate aggressively, because currently I am agitating gently for 5 sec every minute and constantly for the first 30 sec.

Andrew O'Neill

30-Apr-2013, 12:10

Raffay

30-Apr-2013, 12:16

I have not solved the safelight issue, but will try this weekend to cut the film in complete dark. As for tray development I don't have a working darkroom with water supply, I use my closet for film changing and loading but I cannot work with water in the closet it's not practical. That is the reason I use the tank. So I guess I am pretty much stuck :(

I really appreciate the interest you guys are taking.

Cheers
Raffay

SergeiR

30-Apr-2013, 12:18

The DR is considerably lower than a negative for carbon transfer... interesting.
eh?

Andrew O'Neill

30-Apr-2013, 12:26

Was the eh? for DR? I work with a DR of about 1.9 for carbon. This negative has a DR of 1.47 and prints well in kallitype.

Andrew O'Neill

30-Apr-2013, 12:46

I see. When you say you "turned" the tank, does that mean tilting left side down, left side up, right side up, right side down? If you can do this vigorously, without spilling, you should see an improvement.

Randy

30-Apr-2013, 17:39

Raffay, if you are able to process in the closet with a tank, any reason you couldn't set 3-8X10 trays on a shelf - developer, water, fix? After the film is in the fix you can open the door and take the tray to the sink.

I don't think you will be able get even development in that tank you are using. There is just no way for the developer to evenly flow over the entire surface of the film since you can't invert the tank...BUT...if you use trays (like I do quite often) you have greater risk of scratching the film during agitation.

An idea - since your tank holds 12 sheets, try processing no more than 3 or 4 at a time with lots of space between the sheets in the tank, and agitate as vigorously as you can when you do agitate. I don't think agitating more often is going to help, as much as more vigorous agitation - tilting the tank from side to side, front to back several times during each agitation. Maybe even taping around the lid to limit the amount of chemical that escapes during vigorous agitation.
I used a tank like that for a few tries years ago and could never get even development. Finally went to processing 4x5 film in 8X10 trays. I could immediately see the difference - no more uneven development. But I did get some scratches. Now, with using Xray film exclusively, I see lots of scratches :(

Raffay

30-Apr-2013, 23:36

Hello, below are two pics I took over the weekend, the first one is x-ray the same film, and the second one is Ilford. Both developed together in the same tank at the same time. Want you people to check for uneven development, I am no expert but logically if the development was uneven as can be seen in the x-ray film then shouldn't the Ilford film be unevenly developed.

9436694367

On second thoughts the Ilford one also seems uneven if looked closely but not as bad as the x-ray.

Cheers

Raffay

SergeiR

1-May-2013, 05:24

I think this should really be taken off to discussion of film processing & etc..
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?48099-X-ray-Film-example-and-comparison

No offense. Just think it makes way more sense over there.

They both unevenly developed. Difference is given by different reaction of emulsion to developer. As simple as that.

Andrew O'Neill

1-May-2013, 07:45

That is serious mottling, especially in the first example. Your tank is the problem. Figure out a way that will allow you to work in flat-bottomed trays. If you are worried about scratches, use my ziplock bag method. Someone suggested working in a closet. That is kind of what I did while I lived in the Japan although it was the corner of my kitchen sealed off with multiple layers of black plastic. Seriously though, your tank is suspect.

Sergei I think that since this is x-ray film it really should be here or on the "original" x-ray thread. Still don't know why this thread was started. Would make things much easier if there was only ONE thread.

Andrew O'Neill

1-May-2013, 07:47

This was tray developed in pyrocat-hd. Green Lat. Kallitype print.

Raffay

1-May-2013, 09:18

How you agitate explains the dark marks on the negative, then. It's not sufficient and it's uneven. If you have solved your safelight issue, try developing in a flat-bottomed tray. If you don't have any, pick up a tupper ware container.

How do you develop in a tupperware container, actually have never tray developed so do you leave the negative in the tray, doesn't it settle at the bottom, how do you grab it again. Do you close the lid, do you agitate the tray or move the negative? So many questions and most probably will irritate most members...sorry SergeiR for this basic stuff.

Cheers

Raffay

Tin Can

1-May-2013, 09:25

I wonder also. My finger are not nimble. I have to use trays with grooves to have any chance of picking of the neg. Some recommend glass plates in the bottom. I am thinking the glass plate would have to be undersized, to allow one the find an edge.

I am lucky to pick up pencils from the floor, let alone wet negs in the dark!

We will both figure this us out, you are not alone!

How do you develop in a tupperware container, actually have never tray developed so do you leave the negative in the tray, doesn't it settle at the bottom, how do you grab it again. Do you close the lid, do you agitate the tray or move the negative? So many questions and most probably will irritate most members...sorry SergeiR for this basic stuff.

Cheers

Raffay

Randy

1-May-2013, 10:00

Raffey & Randy, when I shot 4X5, I could easily process 16-18 sheets at a time in 8X10 trays. I used photographic development trays, like you would use to develop photographic printing paper, with the depressions in the bottom, making it easy to slip my fingers under the stack of film, slide the bottom sheet out and lay it on the top of the stack, keeping the entire stack under the developer as I agitate. Xray is so easy to scratch that this procedure is not very good. Development is even, but the darn scratches. I get less scratches if I do only 1-2 sheets at a time though. Some suggest using flat bottom trays to minimize scratching. I have not tried that yet.

Andrew O'Neill

1-May-2013, 10:06

How do you pick up the negative in a tupperware container? By the corner. Push the film against the opposite edge first. It's easier to pick up. Also by agitating, a corner will come up allowing you to get your finger underneath. X-ray film is too fragile to develop multiple sheets together. One at a time.
You can use regular, grooved trays if you use my ziplock bag method.

Light Guru

1-May-2013, 10:15

How do you develop in a tupperware container

Not recommended to use they often have a mold mark on the bottom that will scratch your neg.

doesn't it settle at the bottom, how do you grab it again.

Many people actually push the neg to the bottom. Again this is another reason to use developing trays that have groves along the bottom that allow you to get your fingers under the neg.

Do you close the lid, do you agitate the tray or move the negative?

No lid development trays do not have lids.

Some recommend glass plates in the bottom. I am thinking the glass plate would have to be undersized, to allow one the find an edge.

That is because x-ray film has emulsion on both sides and they are trying to avoid scratching the emulsion on the back on the bottom of the tray. having the glass plate undersized would just leave places where the x-ray neg can be scratched on.

Andrew O'Neill

1-May-2013, 12:33

The tupper ware containers I have have no such mold mark on the bottom. At any rate, I do not use them anymore since I got hold of some flat-bottomed trays of several different sizes from a retired photographer. I don't recommend grooved bottoms, especially if you are using x-ray film that has emulsion on both sides. The bottom "agitates" differently than the top side and can result in developer marks. It happened to me. If you only have this type of tray, instead of a glass sheet insert, try plexi glass with the edges and corners sanded. Or you could try out the ziplock bag method. Much cheaper and works great!

Tin Can

1-May-2013, 12:39

found this zip lock method

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8409478356/

The tupper ware containers I have have no such mold mark on the bottom. At any rate, I do not use them anymore since I got hold of some flat-bottomed trays of several different sizes from a retired photographer. I don't recommend grooved bottoms, especially if you are using x-ray film that has emulsion on both sides. The bottom "agitates" differently than the top side and can result in developer marks. It happened to me. If you only have this type of tray, instead of a glass sheet insert, try plexi glass with the edges and corners sanded. Or you could try out the ziplock bag method. Much cheaper and works great!

Light Guru

1-May-2013, 14:10

Or you could try out the ziplock bag method. Much cheaper and works great!

found this zip lock method

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8409478356/

It doesn't work well according to the example there.

Jim Fitzgerald

1-May-2013, 17:35

Why re-invent the wheel! Flat bottom trays or dip and dunk tanks and get on with it. I know this works. The proof is in the putting. Need I say more?

ShawnHoke

1-May-2013, 18:26

found this zip lock method

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8409478356/

Randy, that was my cautionary tale for the Ziploc method. I totally messed it up, largely due to my own errors. I've been getting consistent results using smooth bottom trays with gentle agitation.

From this weekend.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8533/8693067504_b194fbf0c8_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8693067504/)
Park Slope Leaves shot Wide Open w/ 8x10 Camera and X-Ray Film (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8693067504/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

Randy

1-May-2013, 18:32

Shawn, can you describe your method or link to it if you have already? Beautiful image above.

Andrew O'Neill

1-May-2013, 19:40

Not sure how you could mess up using the ziplock method. Jim if one cannot source flat bottomed trays and only has ones with grooves, the ziplock method is ideal. Got nothing to do with reinventing the wheel. Its about problem solving. I outlined the procedure in the original x-ray thread.

photoevangelist

1-May-2013, 21:26

Been busy doing portraits, but spying in on the thread and love all the new work!

I've done about 50 student portraits in the past 6 weeks. I've also upgraded to the tank and hangars method. Got an outstanding deal on three tanks and 8 hangars. Had an interview this Monday about my work and they asked for some samples of my work. I haven't been doing any contact prints lately, just shooting. They needed some prints so I printed a few for the magazine hopefuls.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/8701187846_66fb4f66a9_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/lee_smathers/8701187846/)
Kwak, Hye-ji (http://www.flickr.com/photos/lee_smathers/8701187846/) by Lee Smathers (http://www.flickr.com/people/lee_smathers/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8401/8700064383_f39438fbe7_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/lee_smathers/8700064383/)
Jang, Seong-ik (http://www.flickr.com/photos/lee_smathers/8700064383/) by Lee Smathers (http://www.flickr.com/people/lee_smathers/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8266/8701187084_a0f8b12c13_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/lee_smathers/8701187084/)
Yoo, Seung-gyun (http://www.flickr.com/photos/lee_smathers/8701187084/) by Lee Smathers (http://www.flickr.com/people/lee_smathers/), on Flickr

All are taken with a Korona 8x10, 12" Dagor (+yellow filter), Fuji HR-A (high speed green sensitive) @160, Rodinal 1:50 4 min (not stripped), some are tray developed some are tank and hangar developed
Printed on Fomabrom 111 in Dektol 1:2 using a 1.5 printing filter

Tin Can

1-May-2013, 22:15

Very nice Lee. I am in a marathon reading of http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?48099-X-ray-Film-example-and-comparison/page35

Which I should have done some time ago.

Got some Kodak CSG 8x10 today...

Curt

2-May-2013, 00:17

If a person can't find a photo tray, pretty unlikely, and doesn't have a tank and hanger, more understandable, then get a Pyrex baking pan made of glass. Grocery stores have then as we'll as other houseware / home centers.

Raffay

2-May-2013, 00:45

Has anyone done tray development in a closet, I mean mine is small, no working counters, carpeted and there is no ventilation. Seems pretty tough. The only thing I can think of is find small glass trays three in number and try and fit them on one of the rack, back to back. If I can fill dev, water and fix in each one of them before starting and then carefully without spilling chemicals, and if that happens I am sure my wife will kick me out of the house. Is it possible that I develop in the the first tray and then dip the negative a few times in the second tray filled with water (hope i don't have to get more water as that would mean taking the tray out of the closet and into the bath, cant do that without exposing to light) and then put the negative in the fix, and after five minutes I can take the fixer tray out to the bath and wash the negative.

I am not sure how to agitate a tray, and I am sure I would have gloves on and it would be difficult to grab the negative with them as they are not tight around the fingers. If I have to move the tray to agitate then there is a danger of spilling the developer on the carpet , as I don't have a proper darkroom.

Any suggestion? I am sure this is more to do with film development and should be in the other section, but again we are trying to shoot x-ray and it would be nice if other then watching nice pictures we can also discuss how to take such pictures and hence see more of them being posted, isn't that the whole objective of a forum, well I maybe wrong.

Cheers
Raffay

Randy

2-May-2013, 04:37

Raffay, here is a youtube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aqm8e7gUvxY) This is the first in a series. I have not watched them all so I don't know how involved they get. I process my sheet film in my bathtub. I lay my 3 trays in the bottom of the tub, add chems, turn out the lights and turn on the red safelight. I do not wear gloves. I should, but I don't. My fingers may fall off eventually.

Andrew O'Neill

2-May-2013, 09:04

Raffay, you can work in a closet. I did in Japan (kitchen corner). Put a couple of shelves in to support trays. The glass trays are a good idea...heavy but do-able. I wore a respirator since there was no air circulation in my plastic wrapped tomb back in those days.

ShawnHoke

2-May-2013, 09:38

Shawn, can you describe your method or link to it if you have already? Beautiful image above.

Sure thing, Randy. Here's a link that describes my attempt with ziploc and then one with trays (http://www.shawnhoke.com/2013/01/film-photography-8x10-fuji-hr-t-x-ray-film-test-shots/). My trays are ribbed, so I just line the bottoms with a piece of smooth glass. I rock all four sides of the tray every 30 seconds.

The x-ray film is capable of amazing things, even at night!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8427295176_421a428075_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/)
Shake Shack at Night, 8x10 Fuji HR-T X-Ray Film (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

ShawnHoke

2-May-2013, 09:39

Corran

2-May-2013, 11:52

The x-ray film is capable of amazing things, even at night!

Yep - I still haven't run into any significant reciprocity with the HR-T film, even for 1-minute long exposures. One of these days I gotta do some tests for really long exposures, like 10+ minutes.

ShawnHoke

2-May-2013, 12:50

Yep - I still haven't run into any significant reciprocity with the HR-T film, even for 1-minute long exposures. One of these days I gotta do some tests for really long exposures, like 10+ minutes.

Yeah, I had read that it needed extra time (almost as much as other B&W films), but I 've not treated it the same as I would treat say Tri-X. Would love to see some longer exposures like you mentioned.

Andrew O'Neill

2-May-2013, 15:31

All films suffer from reciprocity effects, including x-ray. I have my own data that I apply to the green latitude stuff.

gth

2-May-2013, 18:37

Sure thing, Randy. Here's a link that describes my attempt with ziploc and then one with trays (http://www.shawnhoke.com/2013/01/film-photography-8x10-fuji-hr-t-x-ray-film-test-shots/). My trays are ribbed, so I just line the bottoms with a piece of smooth glass. I rock all four sides of the tray every 30 seconds.

The x-ray film is capable of amazing things, even at night!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8427295176_421a428075_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/)
Shake Shack at Night, 8x10 Fuji HR-T X-Ray Film (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

Great image. Shades of Stieglitz...

Tin Can

3-May-2013, 08:53

Finally shot some Kodak CSG 8x10. A pleasure not to cut it to size. 1 sec f22 ISO 80. LED lights. Rodinal 1/100 5 min Ziploc. Did not force the neg in long way. I like the Ziplok method, would be great for 5X7 and students. No mess, very clean and dry. I used high quality slider bags. Cheap at Costco. Self portrait with Autoknips II, a great invention. Hard to visualize that neck shadow...

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8257/8704099673_058f41ac6e_b.jpg

Tin Can

3-May-2013, 14:01

Posted to the other X-Ray thread, but I think I need to be here. Kodak CSG 8X10 1/100 RO9 5 min Ziploc LED lights made 2 images, one stop apart. This is 1 sec f22. Self portrait with Autoknips II timer PS curves, no spotting. Getting a Costco print in 2 hours to see how it looks at 16X20.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8535/8704809935_b91b0fd7ea_b.jpg

Andrew O'Neill

3-May-2013, 14:46

Like it. Can I see a wee bit of mottling?

Tin Can

3-May-2013, 14:56

The background was mottled on purpose with the LED lights. I could see it with my eye. I see scratches. The neck shadow was hard to predict.

I am changing backgrounds now.

Shoot later tonight.

Hard for me to really see it on a monitor. The Costco print should be interesting.

Better get there now.

Like it. Can I see a wee bit of mottling?

photoevangelist

3-May-2013, 16:28

Very cool, Randy. Looks like you're getting some scratches though. Changhwan finally got his Agfa x-ray film and did some ISO tests yesterday in D-76. I had to leave the school early, but hope to see his results on Monday. Everyone was in awe of his camera, saying things like: "Is that a camera?!"

Tin Can

3-May-2013, 17:00

I am shooting with a C1 also.

I wasn't gentle. I actually don't care about the scratches. This is 'good enough for government work' as we used to say. I sell nothing, I do this for my own enjoyment. Chasing perfection is not me.

I will get better.

I want to try conventional 5x7 film in the Ziploc, 8X10 was a very tight fit. My hands are not very cooperative. I am lucky to load and unload holders. Only recently have I gained enough hand strength to ride that bike, but I can ride a bike with my feet, been at that a long time.

Real cameras are huge!

Very cool, Randy. Looks like you're getting some scratches though. Changhwan finally got his Agfa x-ray film and did some ISO tests yesterday in D-76. I had to leave the school early, but hope to see his results on Monday. Everyone was in awe of his camera, saying things like: "Is that a camera?!"

ShawnHoke

3-May-2013, 18:14

Great image. Shades of Stieglitz...

Hey, thank you for the kind words.

ShawnHoke

3-May-2013, 18:16

All films suffer from reciprocity effects, including x-ray. I have my own data that I apply to the green latitude stuff.

Yes, they all do. However, I've noticed a big difference between x-ray film and films like Tri-X or HP5+. This HR-T does not need as much adjustment in my experience.

SergeiR

3-May-2013, 20:38

back to images.

4x10 , Kodak CSG @ iso100 , Symmar 300mm, 1+100 Rodinal 4:30, Yellow-Green filter.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8402/8706637896_a4326842d3_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8706637896/)
Scan-130503-0002-2www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8706637896/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

Michael Cienfuegos

3-May-2013, 20:38

Tin Can

3-May-2013, 21:15

Got 2 CSG drying, not liking what I see. This may be the last Ziploc test for CSG 8x10. I still want to try it with FP4 5X7 in the same size bag.

Tin Can

3-May-2013, 21:16

I don't smile much and never for photos. :(

premortho

4-May-2013, 06:40

You never even smiled when you took your first successful flash picture with your Graphic?

Tin Can

4-May-2013, 07:29

U
You never even smiled when you took your first successful flash picture with your Graphic?
Norwegians from Minnasota are not known for happiness. We are a grim lot. We left the frozen motherland for an even worse climate that has no sardines, only the miserable Bull Head fish to eat. Jamestown was better.

Raffay

4-May-2013, 11:09

One basic question, my closet that is my darkroom has white walls, would that affect the red light?

Tin Can

4-May-2013, 11:14

One basic question, my closet that is my darkroom has white walls, would that affect the red light?

White walls good, do not change.

Tin Can

4-May-2013, 11:16

My last 2 are OOF, pretty hard to shoot self portraits with 8X10!

Not sharing!

Got 2 CSG drying, not liking what I see. This may be the last Ziploc test for CSG 8x10. I still want to try it with FP4 5X7 in the same size bag.

gdi

4-May-2013, 15:14

photoevangelist

4-May-2013, 16:35

My last 2 are OOF, pretty hard to shoot self portraits with 8X10!

Not sharing!

Haha! That's why I had a helper for my self portrait. Makes you wonder how others did it. Like Chuck Close's self portraits, etc.

Tin Can

4-May-2013, 17:07

My first 2 worked pretty good at f22. I guess i concentrated more on precise position.

This was more a test of ziplock developing. And I actually threw out the negs, hard for me to do...

Now what I need to do is mount an Ilex 5 flange on a Sinar board. Then I can shoot a few different lens and formats. soon.

Tonight I mount a Ilex 5 flange on a Kodak 5X7 and shoot FP4 for the Ziplock last test. OOF or bust!

Haha! That's why I had a helper for my self portrait. Makes you wonder how others did it. Like Chuck Close's self portraits, etc.

SergeiR

4-May-2013, 18:22

Haha! That's why I had a helper for my self portrait. Makes you wonder how others did it. Like Chuck Close's self portraits, etc.

easy. You focus on light stand.

Tin Can

4-May-2013, 18:38

SergeiR

4-May-2013, 21:03

I did that, but tonite is new nite, maybe better tonite. Tonite 5X7 wood camera, Kodak 305 Portrait lens. I have never used, just mounted a lens board.

Pizza now, I am starving...

Thanks Sergei!

np... took me forever to get that stuff right too.. Now i can do self portraits on 4x5 with 150/2.8 wide open and get focus right every time.
Dont forget that many say that kodak portrait shifts focus as you close it.. I dont have one, so i can not vouch.

Tin Can

4-May-2013, 21:12

Gave up on the Ilex shuttersss. 3 have problems, I never used any of them.

Back to Symmar-S 300mm f5.6, seems to be my best lens and shutter.

shot FP4, and into the darkroom i go.

Gotta remember to turn off the red light...

np... took me forever to get that stuff right too.. Now i can do self portraits on 4x5 with 150/2.8 wide open and get focus right every time.
Dont forget that many say that kodak portrait shifts focus as you close it.. I dont have one, so i can not vouch.

Raffay

4-May-2013, 21:50

Any tips on cutting x-ray film? I am finding it so hard to cut it to the right size even in safelight.

Tin Can

4-May-2013, 22:01

I make guides of matte board and tape them in place. I cut one way, put it away, make a new guide and cut the rest. I find a chopper blade works for me with a presser-down-ruler. one at a time.

Any tips on cutting x-ray film? I am finding it so hard to cut it to the right size even in safelight.

SergeiR

5-May-2013, 07:25

Randy - hey.. if you dont need them - send them here ;) I still need to fix #4, and keep looking for #5..

Tin Can

5-May-2013, 08:37

Very funny Sergei! My 4's work fine, but those 5's are being stubborn, particularly when trying to run them with a timer. What I really need to do is stop taking pics of myself, very boring! And tedious.

To make matters worse my good Cobal 3 is acting up. :(

Randy - hey.. if you dont need them - send them here ;) I still need to fix #4, and keep looking for #5..

Andrew O'Neill

5-May-2013, 09:05

Randy, could you describe your ziplock bag procedure? I can't understand why it's not working for you.

Tin Can

5-May-2013, 09:56

Thanks for your concern. I am getting a lot of scratches with X-Ray no matter how I do it. Crappy hands are half the problem. Last night, as a test, I processed a 5X7 FP4 neg in my usual gallon Ziploc and it came out great.

As I understand it, x-ray film does not have the built in hardeners that most normal film has. I would like to try adding a hardener to the x-ray process when I figure out what and when to use.

Thanks!

Randy, could you describe your ziplock bag procedure? I can't understand why it's not working for you.

Tav Walraven

5-May-2013, 10:27

Any tips on cutting x-ray film? I am finding it so hard to cut it to the right size even in safelight.

Raffay......
Here's what I did. I took a piece of my 12x20 FP4 to my friend who has a tool & die shop. He cut a piece of stainless the exact size, beveled the edges, and smoothed all surfaces. It matched perfectly. I then take 14x36 x-ray film, put a piece of 20# bond paper on that piece, and put the stainless piece on the paper and use a utility knife to cut along the edges of the stainless piece. Out comes my 12x20 piece of x-ray and I also get a piece of 11x14 from the leftover piece. BTW, the stainless is 60/1000 thick.

SergeiR

5-May-2013, 18:05

Kodak CSG. Yellow-green filter, exposed @ 125 - bright sunny day with some clouds, Rodinal 1+100: 8 minutes (cont agitation - Unidrum).

10x4
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8130/8712690258_ea664275cb_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8712690258/)
Scan-130505-0005www (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8712690258/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

Tin Can

5-May-2013, 18:42

You do what you want Sergei, but I want you to stick to shooting your wonderful lady friends, after those images, landscapes pale in comparison.

How are you doing 4X10? With dividers, cut down dark slide or dedicated camera? Maybe there is another way...

I do like the sky in this image!

[QUOTE=SergeiR;1023065]Kodak CSG. Yellow-green filter, exposed @ 125 - bright sunny day with some clouds, Rodinal 1+100: 8 minutes (cont agitation - Unidrum).

10x4

SergeiR

5-May-2013, 21:23

You do what you want Sergei, but I want you to stick to shooting your wonderful lady friends, after those images, landscapes pale in comparison.

How are you doing 4X10? With dividers, cut down dark slide or dedicated camera? Maybe there is another way...

I do like the sky in this image!

10x4

well.. most of girls are busy this weekend and i got some digital ones to process and other things to do.. so it was just me , wondering the shore.. :)
I got divider. Cheapo way into format, and you can get 4 images on same 2 sheets without much trouble.

Tin Can

5-May-2013, 21:30

And no babes, came along to carry your camera...:)

I was out with Mamiya C33 TLR today and I got strange looks...

well.. most of girls are busy this weekend and i got some digital ones to process and other things to do.. so it was just me , wondering the shore.. :)
I got divider. Cheapo way into format, and you can get 4 images on same 2 sheets without much trouble.

SergeiR

5-May-2013, 21:47

Well i do have to scout locations every now and then before i can bring someone there :) Actually found one today that i am now trying to figure out how to shoot girl there and not getting .. umm.. well.. arrested :)

Tin Can

5-May-2013, 22:38

I'll be right down and stand guard. I will take notes.

Well i do have to scout locations every now and then before i can bring someone there :) Actually found one today that i am now trying to figure out how to shoot girl there and not getting .. umm.. well.. arrested :)

photoevangelist

6-May-2013, 01:47

easy. You focus on light stand.

Not for mine.. where the slightest mm of movement causes it to be out of focus at f11.

photoevangelist

6-May-2013, 01:48

photoevangelist

6-May-2013, 01:51

Raffay

6-May-2013, 03:47

Shot this over the weekend. First tray development, very happy with the results. Had to crop a lot in PS as my negative was quite off from 4x5 it was something like 3.3x4.2...very poor at cutting the x-ray film, but was fun. The far light was in the frame but there was no negative :)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8411/8713972744_8d273eb2f2.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/february71/8713972744/)
monty (http://www.flickr.com/photos/february71/8713972744/) by february71 (http://www.flickr.com/people/february71/), on Flickr

Cheers

Raffay

Tin Can

6-May-2013, 08:43

I agree not that easy, thats why I am shooting with very small apertures and still having problems.

I gotta take another stab at shutter repair. I have a Betax that needs attention and may start there.

One trouble I am having with the big Ilex is my wind up timer Autoknips II has a hard time moving that long throw lever. I am thinking of string and pulleys.

Did some roll film yesterday, it is a pleasure to develop in cans.

Gotta get the big darkroom done...

Not for mine.. where the slightest mm of movement causes it to be out of focus at f11.

rdelung

6-May-2013, 08:45

Hi Lee, I've been following the pic's on this site for some time now. The use of a Yellow/Green filter has been mentioned more than once. I plan on using a 4x5 and a 8x10. Where can I get a filter of this type that
will work for both. ( a size for each I mean ) all the information that has been passed on from all the members has been extremely helpfull. Thanks, Randy DeLung I ( Hi there Randy,not to confuse anyone )

Tin Can

6-May-2013, 08:45

Great and would you please send that car to me collect!

Shot this over the weekend. First tray development, very happy with the results. Had to crop a lot in PS as my negative was quite off from 4x5 it was something like 3.3x4.2...very poor at cutting the x-ray film, but was fun. The far light was in the frame but there was no negative :)

Cheers

Raffay

Raffay

6-May-2013, 08:57

Great and would you please send that car to me collect!

Thank you For your comments. This is a 1965 Volkswagen that I bought a year ago, my children named her Monty. Needs restoration, which I am planning but it is quite hard, as I will have to import all the parts from Canada or the USA. You like Volkswagen?

Tin Can

6-May-2013, 09:08

I love aircooled VW. I have had many, at least 25. My first car at 16 was a 1961 convertible. In the early 70's we chopped them up and made many dune buggies. Later I had VW buses with Westfalia camping conversions.

The cheapest I bought, was a good runner for $35, drove it 10,000 miles. It blew a valve and I drove it 5000 more miles on 3 cylinders, until the clutch cable broke and I sold it for $50 at a profit!

Now they are very rare in USA, except California.

Good to see you back in the game!

Thank you For your comments. This is a 1965 Volkswagen that I bought a year ago, my children named her Monty. Needs restoration, which I am planning but it is quite hard, as I will have to import all the parts from Canada or the USA. You like Volkswagen?

Raffay

6-May-2013, 09:32

Wow!!! I would love to get my hands on a 1961 convertible, they are very rare in Pakistan just know of one guy who has a 1966 convertible. That is one of the reasons I would love to settle in California :)

Tin Can

6-May-2013, 09:37

My $400 convertible is now worth more than $10,000, depending upon rust.

I have had the fortune of owning many new cars that became collector items. I am glad I had them new.

IMHO, the best cars are being built right now.

Not so, with cameras...

Wow!!! I would love to get my hands on a 1961 convertible, they are very rare in Pakistan just know of one guy who has a 1966 convertible. That is one of the reasons I would love to settle in California :)

Raffay

6-May-2013, 09:40

Do you still have that convertible, if yes can post some pics (not to mention LF).

Andrew O'Neill

6-May-2013, 09:52

I've done quite a bit of testing with filters (on green lat). You can use pretty much anything up to yellow #12 wratten. My favourite is #8 and #11.

Tin Can

6-May-2013, 10:00

I have no VW's right now, but that can change in a second. Here are shots of my favorite ones. I sold the orange one recently.

If you need VW tech advice, PM me. I was an auto mechanic all my life, now I try to save cameras...

9462594626

Do you still have that convertible, if yes can post some pics (not to mention LF).

Tin Can

6-May-2013, 10:46

One more VW image and I will stop. I cannot resist. This is 1969 winter drag racing with home made VW dune buggies.

I shot this chrome with a Pentax H3, using sunny 16. Not sure on film.

94630

Do you still have that convertible, if yes can post some pics (not to mention LF).

Randy

6-May-2013, 10:55

I love aircooled VW. I have had many, at least 25. My first car at 16 was a 1961 convertible.
Randy, my first car, back in 1974, was a 1960 Bug. Been many years since I have had a VW. Had a Bus back in the late 80's for a few years. I have posted this pic before but I guess it is appropriate to post again. It was my first X-ray attempt. I actually threw the neg in the trash because it was so under exposed / under developed that it looked like it was blank. I dug it out of the trash the next day to have another look.

My best friend Russ passed away a couple years ago, so his poor car is just sitting there. I sure would like to get it and restore it. No $ :(

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/img567.jpg

Randy

6-May-2013, 10:57

Corran

6-May-2013, 11:02

I wonder if in 30-40 years folks will pine over my first car - a '92 Toyota Camry?
:D

Tin Can

6-May-2013, 11:06

Cool pic of a cool car. I think you should just go get it. It's not getting any better there. I once got a 1964 Datsun Fairlady roadster that way. It was in dry storage for 15 years and the storage facility sold it to me for $100. An easy restoration was quickly completed. I found the owner's widow and she told me to never contact her again. She owed thousands in storage. I got an Alabama title, which is no longer possible I believe. I drove it for years and sold it at huge profit. It was smaller than a Ghia.

Look it has the hot rod EMPI exhaust!

BTW, good to meet first Randy!

Randy, my first car, back in 1974, was a 1960 Bug. Been many years since I have had a VW. Had a Bus back in the late 80's for a few years. I have posted this pic before but I guess it is appropriate to post again. It was my first X-ray attempt. I actually threw the neg in the trash because it was so under exposed / under developed that it looked like it was blank. I dug it out of the trash the next day to have another look.

My best friend Russ passed away a couple years ago, so his poor car is just sitting there. I sure would like to get it and restore it. No $ :(

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/img567.jpg

Tin Can

6-May-2013, 11:19

I wonder if in 30-40 years folks will pine over my first car - a '92 Toyota Camry?
:D

Corran, you may. Everybody loves their first car. Just like first love.

I don't know how old you are, but personal cars will soon be history. I don't expect my great grandchildren to be driving automobiles when they are my age, with the accent on 'auto'. They are just too expensive in so many ways, and surely in 100 years, antique collectors will be mooning over any car left, but they won't be able to repair it. The bots will recycle them into more bots.

For the real long haul, get a car with points and a carb, you can run it on methane tanks. No electronics or dinosaur oil needed.

Ever see the Twilight Zone episode where gold thieves put themselves to sleep with their gold for 100 years? The joke was on them, the future had figured out how to make gold, and they had a hard time with their old truck.

Corran

6-May-2013, 11:28

Eh, we'll see. I'm not much of a car person. Point A to Point B kinda guy. (BTW - I'm 27, if you were curious.)
I am certainly not opposed to more mass transit and/or automation of getting between two points, but somehow I can't imagine we'll be car-less in the next 30-40 years. Maybe so though!

Sounds like a cool episode...haven't seen TZ in years though. Used to watch it on the Sci-Fi network during summer break.

Michael Cienfuegos

7-May-2013, 10:08

Randy, my first car, back in 1974, was a 1960 Bug. Been many years since I have had a VW. Had a Bus back in the late 80's for a few years. I have posted this pic before but I guess it is appropriate to post again. It was my first X-ray attempt. I actually threw the neg in the trash because it was so under exposed / under developed that it looked like it was blank. I dug it out of the trash the next day to have another look.

My best friend Russ passed away a couple years ago, so his poor car is just sitting there. I sure would like to get it and restore it. No $ :(

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/img567.jpg

If Mother Nature continues with this little car, there won't be much left to restore. It looks like it is doing a pretty good job of rusting away… :(

Raffay

7-May-2013, 11:21

Very disappointing day for me, it was my nephews 13th birthday and I thought I should take a LF portrait of him. Used a Fuji x-ray, but after development nothing came out, the negative is dark grey with no exposure. The shutter did open, what could have gone wrong? Is the developer dead or what?

Any insight, totally shattered.

Tin Can

7-May-2013, 11:23

It has happened to me.

I always back up life event film images with digital. The moment is too precious for failure.

I am sorry to hear this.

Try try again!

Good luck!

Very disappointing day for me, it was my nephews 13th birthday and I thought I should take a LF portrait of him. Used a Fuji x-ray, but after development nothing came out, the negative is dark grey with no exposure. The shutter did open, what could have gone wrong? Is the developer dead or what?

Any insight, totally shattered.