Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[davidrcarls]

Fuji Super HRT (green) 14x17 and tray developed in HC110 (Dilution B). Shot with a 30" Artar and simply contact printed to minimum black onto some junk paper I had laying around (Kodak Polycontrast RC) to Grade 3 with my Ilford VC head. I like all the variation in the skin tones, but I suspect my wife would stop allowing me to photograph her if I showed her this!

[Corran]

I started working last weekend on some photos detailing the area around the Withlacoochee River with my 8x10, with the goal being a large series of 8x10 contact prints both with silver gelatin and Van Dyke Browns. Here is a sample image. You can find about 10 more on my blog linked below in my signature. All are taken with Fuji Super HR-T:

http://www.oceanstarproductions.com/photosharing/0045ss.jpg

[Tri Tran]

Spend a couples days in Yosemite... here the shot that was taken with this lens http://antiquecameras.net/blog93.html from Dan on the 14x17 Xray film .

http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/841/oaktre3.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/535/oaktre3.jpg/)

[Holdenrichards]

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7215/7089323425_f799953ce4_z.jpg

Eastman View No. 1 8x10 Camera
Konica Hexanon GRII 210mm
Kodak B/RA X-Ray Film
Caffenol C/M

[coisasdavida]

This is an amazing thread.
Thanks to all involved for so much information.

I just got myself some 5x7" MXG and some 8x10" KODAK EKTASCAN B/RA Film / 4153 (single sided emulsion).
I'll try to post comments after I try them out.

[gbogatko]

Holden,
What ISO and dev times are you using for the B/RA film? (Just got a pack).
Annnnd -- That's a really nice picture!!

[Holdenrichards]

Holden,
What ISO and dev times are you using for the B/RA film? (Just got a pack).
Annnnd -- That's a really nice picture!!

Iso 25 in Caffenol for 3:30 seconds. Seems Iso 50 dev times are between 6-8 minutes in any developer so I'm told.

[gbogatko]

Iso 25 in Caffenol for 3:30 seconds. Seems Iso 50 dev times are between 6-8 minutes in any developer so I'm told.

3:30 seconds? Perhaps minutes?
haha
George

[Holdenrichards]

Three minutes thirty seconds

[gbogatko]

Iso 25, then D76 1:1 for 6 minutes. Thin neg, but everything is in there.
72925

[IAphotog]

AFAIK, the current Sony digital slr cameras use the same Minolta Maxxum lens mount designed for Minolta Maxxum 35mm film SLR cameras.

Yes, Sony dslr lenses use same mount Minolta Maxxum lenses.

Patrick

[Holdenrichards]

Lovely tones!

[gbogatko]

Thanks!!

[Tri Tran]

Feeding my friend threat. A 14x17 Carbon Transfer Gold Tone with Xray film unspoiled.

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4606/img0894jw.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/41/img0894jw.jpg/)

[sly]

Impressive Tri! I'm still trying to get 4x5 carbons to work. Got the UV lights on right now. Hope I've solved the frilling problem.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Tri, Gotta love 14x17 x-ray film! Print size is impressive especially in carbon.

Sly, make sure you have a good safe edge.

[Luke79]

gbogatko, Great Image , could you Tell me which Film you gave been using?

[Tri Tran]

Impressive Tri! I'm still trying to get 4x5 carbons to work. Got the UV lights on right now. Hope I've solved the frilling problem.

Thanks Sly. I'm sure everything will fall in place as soon as your workflow set up. As for the carbon process .The patience, persistence is the key to succes.

Jim, the 14x17 is the format I work now a day. As you already know there is no brainer to use other format beside the 20x24.My 11x14 is now semi retired, except Studio Portrait work which I use the 8A instead.

[sly]

Thanks Tri and Jim, I'm finding it's going better when I mask off ALL the rebate.
Got some prints today I'm pretty happy with. I'll scan and post once they are dry.

[bitnaut]

Tried my hand at shooting and developing 8x10 Fuji Super RX Blue with Max Pyro at 2:2:100 dilution and 6 minutes. I guessed at 125ISO but really should have used 50ISO judging from the thinness of the negs. Anyway, I look forward to experimenting more with this since it does look promising (and cheap!).

Also, this is the first time I used my Jobo CPP-2 that I recently refurbished after picking it up for $250. :)

7349373494

[premortho]

I'd like to find some 5X7 x-ray film, and not have to go to Brasil to find it. Who sells it in the U.S.A.?

[Holdenrichards]

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7078/7219524744_8bec6e357f_z.jpg

1903 Eastman View No 1. 8x10 Camera
Konica Hexanon GRII 210mm
Kodak Single Emulsion X-Ray
Caffenol CM

[Andrew O'Neill]

How about here: http://www.provisionenterprises.com/index.php?_a=category&cat_id=3

[rotomotor]

74389
Burk & James 8x10 camera
300mm Caltar lens wide open at f/6.3 for 1/5 second
Kodak Ektascan B/R Single Emulsion x-ray film at EI 50
Processed in Caffenol-C for 11 minutes

[Holdenrichards]

Burk & James 8x10 camera
300mm Caltar lens wide open at f/6.3 for 1/5 second
Kodak Ektascan B/R Single Emulsion x-ray film at EI 50
Processed in Caffenol-C for 11 minutes

really nice! I am sticking to EI 25 with this stuff, but your results at 50 are super!

[Jon Wilson]

Has anyone tried the green x-ray film in a jobo recently? I decided to try 11x14 Fuji x-ray film given its cost was about .50 a sheet. I have a 3063 drum with the jobo insert. Do you think it will have streaks using the jobo insert? We will find out in any event.

[Holdenrichards]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8157/7306119652_af0785e7a6_z.jpg

Eastman View No 1. 8x10 Camera
Konica Hexanon GRII 210mm
Kodak B/RA X-Ray Film
Caffenol.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Has anyone tried the green x-ray film in a jobo recently? I decided to try 11x14 Fuji x-ray film given its cost was about .50 a sheet. I have a 3063 drum with the jobo insert. Do you think it will have streaks using the jobo insert? We will find out in any event.

I'm thinking scratches!

[Andrew O'Neill]

Since this film has emulsion on both sides, the developer will not be able to get to the side of film that's against the tank. You will most likely end up with a lot of mottling on that side... Would be okay if you are planning on stripping that side...and then scratches wouldn't be a problem, either.

[Jon Wilson]

Jim, I too have been concerned it would be scratched to smithereens. But, the one sheet I was able to develop yesterday does not appear scratched. I am going to look at it closer and hope to get the sheet scanned/printed.


Since this film has emulsion on both sides, the developer will not be able to get to the side of film that's against the tank. You will most likely end up with a lot of mottling on that side... Would be okay if you are planning on stripping that side...and then scratches wouldn't be a problem, either.

I developed my first sheet yesterday with Ilfosol 3 (5:30) and used my 3063 with its 11x14 jobo insert. I did not notice any scratches, but the film may need more fixing or stripping of the emulsion from one side for the developed sheet does not look like a typical developed sheet of film for it has a bluish tint to it. Is that normal? If not, does it need to be fixed more?

Andrew, I know having waded through this thread you have posted how you strip the emulsion from one side. Could you describe your method for doing it so that it is near the top of the thread?

In any event, I am stoked at the price of this film.....mine cost me about .50 per sheet which is nothing compared to the Real McCoy (Ilford, Kodak, etc.).

Thanks guys.

Jon

[Andrew O'Neill]

Jon,

It was actually someone else who posted their procedure. It's pretty simple, so here goes: Tape down your negative with the side that was not facing the lens, facing up. Tape it down with duct tape. Run your finger nail along the edge of the film, pushing the tape down. You don't want ammonia reaching the emulsion on the other side!! Dip a brush (I use a cheap foam brush) in household ammonia and apply it to the negative. The emulsion strips quickly. With a damp sponge, wipe away excess ammonia/emulsion. Then wipe with a wetter sponge. Examine to make sure all emulsion has been removed. Remove from glass and wash in a tray.

Because stripping literally removes half of the negatives density range, you will have to develop longer than your normal time.

andrew

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Jim, I too have been concerned it would be scratched to smithereens. But, the one sheet I was able to develop yesterday does not appear scratched. I am going to look at it closer and hope to get the sheet scanned/printed.



I developed my first sheet yesterday with Ilfosol 3 (5:30) and used my 3063 with its 11x14 jobo insert. I did not notice any scratches, but the film may need more fixing or stripping of the emulsion from one side for the developed sheet does not look like a typical developed sheet of film for it has a bluish tint to it. Is that normal? If not, does it need to be fixed more?

Andrew, I know having waded through this thread you have posted how you strip the emulsion from one side. Could you describe your method for doing it so that it is near the top of the thread?

In any event, I am stoked at the price of this film.....mine cost me about .50 per sheet which is nothing compared to the Real McCoy (Ilford, Kodak, etc.).

Thanks guys.

Jon

Jon, that is the way it looks. IMHO stripping is a waste of time. Just print through it. Now I'm a carbon printer and it has never been any problem for me. I've printed from negatives developed in D76 and Pyrocat-HD. Just learn how to use it for how you will print. It is cheap enough to experiment with. Find what works for you. Everyone does it a little different. You have the basics. That is all you need.

[Andrew O'Neill]

IMHO stripping is a waste of time

Even if you enlarge with it? Not a waste of time. Contact printing? Yes, it would be a waste of time then.

[Jon Wilson]

Even if you enlarge with it? Not a waste of time. Contact printing? Yes, it would be a waste of time then.

Thanks guys. This helps. The 11x14 would be contact printing. Smaller formats would be available to me for enlargements, so I will plan to "strip" those negs. BTW, is the bluish tint to the Fuji green X-ray film normal appearance after it has been developed and not stripped?

[Andrew O'Neill]

Yes, the film base is blue... even before you develop it.

[ImSoNegative]

here is one I shot last night, still trying to work out all the quirks, really like this stuff though, this was shot with a C1, green sensitive xray film and a ab1600 strobe

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8142/7442616178_ed0bcd6bc0_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/7442616178/)
flower (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/7442616178/) by J. Golden (http://www.flickr.com/people/28713901@N04/), on Flickr

[Bill_4606]

First of all, thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. Your experiences have created a de-facto manual for working with x-ray film. I recently decided to try it because of some interesting potential qualities I'll mention in a few lines. Your collective wisdom and willingness to share have provided a sort of "kick start" into working with x-ray film.

Now for my hair-brained idea. X-ray film has the image exposed on two layers of emulsion -- the side facing the lens being the primary image and the so-called back side being the secondary image. It occurred to me that the secondary image would be a bit fuzzy due to the image passing through the primary emulsion and the base material. This is really an unsharp secondary image (hopefully the lights are going on and you know where I'm going with this).

It may be possible to relatively easily create a built in unsharp mask for the primary image.
The trick (I think) will be to reduce (possibly proportionally) the secondary image.

The result (again, I think) will be improved contrast in the shadows and better acutance overall.

There have been several suggestions for removing the secondary emulsion by mounting the negative on a glass plate -- great idea. I'm now working on a reducing process that is controllable using that setup. For calibration, I'm shooting a white wall with a 4x5 Stouffer Step Tablet sandwiched on a sheet of Fuji Green X-ray film using an older wood film holder. The older film holder's internal guides has more slop so I can insert the two sheets of film together.

Using a controlled exposure, I can measure the developed and reduced film density on my old densitometer.

I think I have the process down -- I'm working on the reducing chemistry now. I need something that I can control the emulsion reduction -- Clorox Bleach is not a good idea -- It wasn't consistent enough except in strong working solutions and then it seemed to only consitently strip everything off.. I also splattered some on my shirt and pants -- now the wife is involved ;-(
I'm ordering Farmer's Reducer to see if that will give me better control over reducing the unsharp mask denesity -- something like maybe one half stop per minute.

Bill

[Jay DeFehr]

Bill,

I too have thought of ways to exploit the double sided image -- I've even tried to develop them separately. For me, the second image works best as a retouching mask. I've played with pencils, dyes, abrasives, knives, and even thickened ferricyanide bleach. There's a lot of potential there, but it takes practice.

[Mark MacKenzie]

Bill, thanks for the post.
I also bought the Fuji Green XRay film and was surprised at the blue base. So I admit to quickly trying to ballpark the exposure development and exposed at 100 and developed in HC-110 Dil B for 6 minutes then another shot for 3 minutes. Both are overly dense to my eyes but I haven't tried to bleach the one emulsion off, yet. The 3 minute neg is closer but I will try Dil H next time. I do have some scratches but I hope only on the bottom side.

Any suggestions as to dev times for Multigrade IV type contact printing appreciated.

[Corran]

I'm doing exclusively MG IV contact prints and I'm getting great results with Rodinal and stripping one side.

[Mark MacKenzie]

Cool...how long do you process in Rodinal and what do you expose at? And you are talking the Fuji Super HR-U? Thanks...

[Bill_4606]

The unsharp masks that I make with "regular" film are pretty much the same as what should result from the X-ray film. I pin register a sheet of film - emulsion side to the back side of my original negative. That separates the two emulsions by only the thickness of the negative base. Putting more distance between does work for some pictures but you run the risk of causing an halo effect between high and low density areas in the photo and the image looks a bit artificial or outright strange. The mask doesn't look fuzzy to the eye ... Just much less dense. That's why I think the X-ray film will provide a subtitle crispness and a bit more shadow definition if I can control the density of the secondary image effectively... Time and experimentation will tell...
Thanks to all for your comments.
Bill

[Corran]

Cool...how long do you process in Rodinal and what do you expose at? And you are talking the Fuji Super HR-U? Thanks...

My standard right now is shooting at ISO 50, developing in Rodinal 1:50 for 7 minutes, and stripping the rear emulsion. This is Fuji Super HR-T. I think that's a good starting point...I usually print my negs for 11 seconds with a #3 filter and they come out very nice. Check out my blog for some shots and more info.

[Mark MacKenzie]

Enjoyed the blog, Bryan. Watch out for the alligators.

[Mark MacKenzie]

The Fuji HR-T is listed as "High Contrast" Green sensitive. The HR-U as just Green sensitive. Has anybody played with both? The HR-U I just shot seems plenty high contrast but I overdeveloped it and haven't stripped the one side yet.

[Corran]

Enjoyed the blog, Bryan. Watch out for the alligators.

:)

I didn't realize there was an HR-U. They don't sell it on cxsonline apparently. But I guess the Rodinal keeps the contrast controlled because I never have problems with contrast. It's too little contrast sometimes if anything.

[Mark MacKenzie]

http://www.zzmedical.com/zencart/xray-film-c-28.html That is where I found mine. Shipped fast and no problems.

I think if I get a chance I will cut up an 8x10 sheet into 4x5's and do a better job of testing. I stick to HC-110.

Corran, I noticed the shot with your wollensak wide angle looked really nice with lots of detail and that large neg look...

[Corran]

Thanks, but I've cropped about 15% of the edges to get rid of the corners which were atrocious...I might've had a dud because my 159mm just never sharpened up in the corners even at f/45.

[Bill_4606]

The unsharp masks that I make with "regular" film are pretty much the same as what should result from the X-ray film. I pin register a sheet of film - emulsion side to the back side of my original negative. That separates the two emulsions by only the thickness of the negative base.
Bill

Well, there's nothing like putting a theory to practice that shows what a bonehead you can be.
Does anyone see where I went wrong in my last statement above? When you contact print the original to make the unsharp mask, the resultant mask it a positive!
My X-ray film "unsharp mask" is a negative just like the original. Actually it is just a copy... Nothing else.
As suggested by others the secondary image might be good as a selective mask to dodge or burn in an area. Or as a spotting mask. But it's of no use as a contrast mask.
Thanks for tolerating my well intentioned but miss-guided idea.
Bill (back to the drawing board)

[Mark MacKenzie]

There must be some advantage to messing around with one side emulsion. Wouldn't it change neg density so you can have selective contrast by bleaching away certain areas for higher tones? Just an idea...

[Jim Noel]

Does anyone know where I can find a list of single sided X-ray film?
Thanks,
Jim

[desertrat]

Does anyone know where I can find a list of single sided X-ray film?
Thanks,
Jim

I think the answer to that is buried way deep in this thread. From what I've been able to gather, single sided films are only available in odd sizes and are way more expensive than ordinary double sided medical films. Examples would be mamography films and industrial films for radiographing welds and metal parts. My own experience is that emulsions on both sides isn't such a bad thing, but I haven't tried any single sided films.

[Michael Batchelor]

I seem to recall that there was some 8x10 single sided green sensitive. But it's a search finding it in the thread. Probably easier to find it at the supply houses.

It's true the single sided was way more expensive for some reason unfathomable. And the reversal duplicating film was expensive too.

If you're looking at those you may as well look at Ilford. That's superb film for little extra cost. Or some of the other "real" camera film.

The cheap stuff is the double sided xray film.

[Tocal]

I seem to recall that there was some 8x10 single sided green sensitive. But it's a search finding it in the thread. Probably easier to find it at the supply houses.

It's true the single sided was way more expensive for some reason unfathomable. And the reversal duplicating film was expensive too.

If you're looking at those you may as well look at Ilford. That's superb film for little extra cost. Or some of the other "real" camera film.

The cheap stuff is the double sided xray film.

I am really surprised about the fact that single-coated X-ray film is so expensive in the US. I live in Germany and get single-coated X-ray Film (for mammography) at an approximately 40% higher price than double-coated usual X-ray film (43,00 € to 30,00 € for 100 sheets 18x24cm). The only drawback is that only metric sizes are available here so I had to purchase some extra holders just for this specific film.

[xrayne1]

Here's a few I took a while back.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/xrayne1/sets/72157624233385678/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/xrayne1/4670885880/in/set-72157624233385678[/img] (http://www.flickr.com/photos/xrayne1/4670885880/in/set-72157624233385678 [img)

[cosmicexplosion]

here is one I shot last night, still trying to work out all the quirks, really like this stuff though, this was shot with a C1, green sensitive xray film and a ab1600 strobe

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8142/7442616178_ed0bcd6bc0_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/7442616178/)
flower (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/7442616178/) by J. Golden (http://www.flickr.com/people/28713901@N04/), on Flickr


awesome shot, took me a while to work out what it was...

[cosmicexplosion]

210mm Symmar-S wide-open with some front swing:
http://www.oceanstarproductions.com/photosharing/0035ss.jpg

yeah checked out your blog man so much stuff to look at.

just wondering what x-ray film you used here.

most of the shots i see are fairly light, but this one looks like normal film, with rich blacks etc.

interestink...

also how much did it cost you to get a machinist to hook up your ektar?

cheers
A

[cosmicexplosion]

Still working. I think I need to rate my film a little higher, maybe 80 or 100. Shadows were too hot before editing.

http://www.oceanstarproductions.com/photosharing/0027s.jpg



there is so much detail in this shot and openness that i can almost believe the water is moving, and i want to jump in.

[desertrat]

The data sheet for Kodak Green X-ray film has a spectral sensitivity graph on the second to last page:

http://www.carestream.com/xraygengreenl5157_techinfo_ti5026.pdf

It looks like an ortho curve. I haven't found any data for the Fuji or Agfa x-ray films. I'm pretty sure the blue sensitive films have no spectral sensitizing dyes, because for blue light they wouldn't need any.

[Randy]

A 1904 steam engine came through town a couple months back pulling a bunch of passenger cars. I wanted to get a very slight motion blur but I didn't think it would be going so fast. I should have set up my 5X7 camera along side.

Oh well...next time?

CSX Green Latitude 8X10 at ISO 100 in HC-110 1:63. 150mm Konica Hexanon and Packard shutter.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/train.jpg

[Luke79]

greetings to all, i would like to try x-ray film and therefore found Fuji Super RX to buy, can anyone recommend a good starting iso rating for this film , i want to us 13x18 with a mentor 5x7 camera, mainly for portrait work, i have rodinal and hc110 , if someon tried them what times have you been using?

greetings luke

[Luke79]

Hello you Guys where Talking about striping One side of the Film , can someone Tell me how this Works or how ans when this is done?

[EdWorkman]

Luke there is a lot of stuff about stripping on here. Search using say, X ray and X-ray, and you will be rewarded

[SMBooth]

Luke the film is cheap try 25,50 & 100. In rodinal 1:100 for 6min

[bracan]

Fantastic landscape!


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7078/7219524744_8bec6e357f_z.jpg

1903 Eastman View No 1. 8x10 Camera
Konica Hexanon GRII 210mm
Kodak Single Emulsion X-Ray
Caffenol CM

[Luke79]

Thank you very much

One Last question , do i understand correctly that it doesnt matter which side of the xray Film is facing the Lens inside the holder, they are both Emulsion sides?

[Randy]

On most, I believe, but some (mamography film?) has emulsion on one side I believe.

My latest attempt - 8X10 CSX green @ ISO 100 in HC-110 "H".

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/lndakti.jpg

[Andrea Gazzoni]

this was shot on Fuji HR-T green, ISO 50 on my Wista 8x10 camera.
quick (dry) drum scan and tone added in PS, just like it better than the simple b/w version.
Brembo river, Northern Italy.


https://dl.dropbox.com/u/94184552/alba%20sul%20fiume.JPG

[Corran]

Nice, what developer did you use? I shoot my HR-T at 50 too.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

my lab used x-tol standard development

[Corran]

Interesting, thanks.

[taulen]

I have tried searching for a while now, but cant really find the/a answer to my question.
I live in Norway, do anyone know of a company that ships to Norway, that be from the US or Europe ?

[Tom Sobota]

Taulen, get in contact with FomaFoto (http://www.fomafoto.com/). They are somewhere in Norway and they distribute films and papers made by Foma Bohemia. They don't seem to distribute Foma x-ray films, but perhaps they will be able to inform you where to get them in Norway, or even get some for you.

Another possibility is your local hospital. Ask them where they buy their x-ray film. They even could have some out-of-date boxes that they could be willing to give you.

Good luck!

[Andrew O'Neill]

Hello you Guys where Talking about striping One side of the Film , can someone Tell me how this Works or how ans when this is done?

Luke, it's quite easy to do. Just lay the negative down on a sheet of glass with the side of the film that was facing the back of the film holder when you made the exposure. Tape down the edges of the negative with duct tape. Brush on some household bleach with a foam brush. The emulsion comes off quite quickly. Pick up the sheet of glass with the negative taped to it and give it a rinse. Hold it up to inspect that all emulsion has been removed. Remove the negative and give it a good wash. By removing the emulsion on one side you have reduced the negatives density range by half. You may have to develop your film for much longer before stripping in order to get back the lost density range. I don't strip the emulsion for carbon transfer printing.

[taulen]

Taulen, get in contact with FomaFoto (http://www.fomafoto.com/). They are somewhere in Norway and they distribute films and papers made by Foma Bohemia. They don't seem to distribute Foma x-ray films, but perhaps they will be able to inform you where to get them in Norway, or even get some for you.

Another possibility is your local hospital. Ask them where they buy their x-ray film. They even could have some out-of-date boxes that they could be willing to give you.

Good luck!

Thanks Tom, will check with Foma =)

[mamypoko]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8471/8086439390_a2970818fb_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joeylu/8086439390/)

spectrum
ambient series

Deardorff 8x10
Schneider Symmar Convertible 240 f/5.6
Fuji Super HR-T X Ray Film

f/22 rated for 2-3 minutes and exposed for 18 minutes

Reciprocity testing for X-Ray Film!

[bobmercier]

I bought a box of Fuji HR-U online. It took 6 or 8 tries to nail down the exposure and development but
I think this is getting close. I rate it at 100iso and it's pretty consistent but too contrasty, so this has
a 1 stop pull. 6min in HC-110 dilution H.

82171

[cpjfox]

82176
I'm completely new to both large format photography and X-ray film.

Have been experimenting with Fuji RX-U

My first 4 exposures were this plane at 50, 100, 200, & 400 ISO. I made the mistake (I think) of developing each exposure for a different time, the result is each negative is practically identical. No perceivable lack or increase of detail in highlights or shadowsm or massive variance of contrast.

I'm repeating the test again but this time with 2 shots at each ISO, half to be developed at 120secs, and the other half for 480 seconds.

The prior 4 were 90, 120, 180 & 240 secs respectively.

[bobmercier]

What developer/dilution are you using?


82176
I'm completely new to both large format photography and X-ray film.

Have been experimenting with Fuji RX-U

My first 4 exposures were this plane at 50, 100, 200, & 400 ISO. I made the mistake (I think) of developing each exposure for a different time, the result is each negative is practically identical. No perceivable lack or increase of detail in highlights or shadowsm or massive variance of contrast.

I'm repeating the test again but this time with 2 shots at each ISO, half to be developed at 120secs, and the other half for 480 seconds.

The prior 4 were 90, 120, 180 & 240 secs respectively.

[ImSoNegative]

here is one i shot today, using green sensitive xray film rated at 100, calumet c1 camera, 14 in. petzval, yellow no.12 filter

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8187/8100491763_c11cdb6ec7_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/8100491763/)
just a tree (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/8100491763/) by J. Golden (http://www.flickr.com/people/28713901@N04/), on Flickr

[cpjfox]

LC29 at 1:29, have lengthened the dev time to 4mins for 50ISO and 8mins for 400ISO With great results, the best at 50 i think. I ran out of 400 iso exposures to test the plane at 8mins, reshooting today or tomorrow. The above shot is majorly underdeveloped when seen next to the 4min dev shot

[premortho]

Bob, ancient photography manuals described a developer used for too contrasty (described as "over-timed") exposures. The nearest box develeper that I know of that is basically a hydrochinon only developer is Dectol. Dectol fell out of favor for this use when everyone went to pan film in the late 1950's. Why? You about can't develope pan film by inspection. But x-ray film is all more or less ortho film. The green x-ray film is the most like Plenachrome or verichrome. I use Dectol anywhere from 12-1 to 24-1 for 5 to 8 minutes. 5-8 minutes gives enough time to get the contrast you want without shooting right on by. If you have never used Dectol, it is first mixed with warm water, and then water added for a stock 2-1 mix. This is for paper. Take the stock mix and dilute it as above (12-1 or 24-1) as a one shot developer.
I bought a box of Fuji HR-U online. It took 6 or 8 tries to nail down the exposure and development but
I think this is getting close. I rate it at 100iso and it's pretty consistent but too contrasty, so this has
a 1 stop pull. 6min in HC-110 dilution H.

82171

[cpjfox]

82325

Fuji RX-U
ISO 50
EXP 5s
f/8.0
Schneider 210mm Symmar-S
LC29 @ 1:29 20DegC for 4mins

[Vaughn]

I just put 24 sheets of 14x17 x-ray film into the fixer. No image at all.

(I use it as carbon tissue support material)

[taulen]

I have been in contact with foma in norway, he is goingto check the next time he is ordering film, and every other place over here just have european size, type 18x24 and so on. And have tried contacting xray sellers in the US, and noone have thus far been interested in shipping overseas. So I have to ask, could anyone do me a favor ?
Order some xray film in the US, and ship them to me ? I will of course pay for all shipping and film, and some extra for the help. Please contact me if anyone is willing, thanks.

[cpjfox]

I have been in contact with foma in norway, he is goingto check the next time he is ordering film, and every other place over here just have european size, type 18x24 and so on. And have tried contacting xray sellers in the US, and noone have thus far been interested in shipping overseas. So I have to ask, could anyone do me a favor ?
Order some xray film in the US, and ship them to me ? I will of course pay for all shipping and film, and some extra for the help. Please contact me if anyone is willing, thanks.

Are you familiar with the troubles and risks of shipping? i.e. the film being X-rayed in transit by the freight forwarder or operator?

I can source Fuji X-Ray film for cheap (I know the NZ distributor personally), but the additional cost and risk of freighting it so far may not be cost effective.

[taulen]

As far as I have read that wont be a problem, of course the shipping costs add up, but in total in will still be alot cheaper. In norway the only "affordable" option is fomapan, everything else have to be ordered elsewhere anyway, so the shipping is something we have to factor in in any case. Xray film isnt anymore exposed to xray-scanning then anyother films, and I have never had a problem when having had film shipped from overseas.

[cpjfox]

Are you fussy about the size/type? I have a spare box of 100 sheets 28x30cm Fuji RX-U. Exposes pretty nice around 50ish ISO. I pick up samples or nearly expired stuff mostly random.

[taulen]

Yeah, thats the thing. I want 8x10 and 11x14, the stuff that fits the regular holders, no needing to cut stuff down or use "rare" holders. 28x30, 18x24 and all these sizes I can order myself, found a source in france that is willing to ship those sizes, but I would like to have the "correct" sizes, at least now in the beginning of trying xray films.
Type I dont really care about, I think, or should I ? =)
Thank you for trying to help out.

[premortho]

You can't go to one of the U.S. sellers, and order via e-mail? I thought the internet highway solved all of these problems. If you google up x-ray film, there's usually a half a dozen sellers trying to get into your hip-pocket.

[taulen]

Thats what I believed, but this is the usual reponds I got:


Jonny,

The film companies do not allow us to sell their products outside of the United States.


**** ***| Owner


And from some I didnt even got a reponse back... So yeah =/

[Bush]

do you know the iso of mamo xray film? I have some Kodak box and always expose them incorrectly

[cpjfox]

do you know the iso of mamo xray film? I have some Kodak box and always expose them incorrectly

Hi Bush,

I did a reasonably painless test to determine the correct ISO for my RX-U

I Took 8 exposures of the exact same thing, 2 sets of exposures at 50, 100, 200 & 400. Developed one set for 4 mins and the other set for 8mins. It helped me see the results of under/over exposure and development.

Thats for a low/medium speed film, if you have normal or high speed you might start at 200 iso and go up to 1600

[cpjfox]

Yeah, thats the thing. I want 8x10 and 11x14, the stuff that fits the regular holders, no needing to cut stuff down or use "rare" holders. 28x30, 18x24 and all these sizes I can order myself, found a source in france that is willing to ship those sizes, but I would like to have the "correct" sizes, at least now in the beginning of trying xray films.
Type I dont really care about, I think, or should I ? =)
Thank you for trying to help out.

All good, makes sense.

If i get my hands on any in those sizes i will let you know, i shoot 4x5 so cutting down is something i will always have to do with xray film. Maybe when i upgrade to 8x10 i will loose my enthusiasm for the odd sizes.

The reason the people you have contacted will not ship outside of the USA may be to do with their distribution rights, or a genuine lack of interest, if the former maybe a distributor exists to ship to your country already, if not there may be such a thing that gives you a USA address and forwards your freight too you for a fee, i have an nz based one called youshop.

[cpjfox]

Taulen, have you tried contacting the Kodak/Fuji/Etc distributors for Norway and asking to speak to the medical sales reps? My contact is the normal photography rep, but he liaises with the medical rep for me. My boxes of film cost me a box of Heineken. Good times

[taulen]

Taulen, have you tried contacting the Kodak/Fuji/Etc distributors for Norway and asking to speak to the medical sales reps? My contact is the normal photography rep, but he liaises with the medical rep for me. My boxes of film cost me a box of Heineken. Good times

Actually no, I havent tried that. I could do that, but I'm pretty sure they will only be able to find the so called "european sizes" everyone else over here get their hands on, but its worth a shot. And thank you !

[cpjfox]

Actually no, I havent tried that. I could do that, but I'm pretty sure they will only be able to find the so called "european sizes" everyone else over here get their hands on, but its worth a shot. And thank you !

Good luck!

Cutting it down isn't so bad given you can do it under the safe light though.

[premortho]

ISO box speed is just an approximation where Ortho film is concerned, and I think all x-ray film is Ortho, either mild (blue) or more orthochromatic (green). So the color temperature of the light affects exposure. On a summer day, between 10.00 Am and 3.00pm, in the afternoon. probably 100 or 80. Shoot it between sunrise and when the sun is 15o above the horizon, and it could be 25 or even lower. Why? Red light. Ortho doesn't record red light hardly at all. I suggest you take 4 exposures, one at 100, and one at 50 in the middle of the day. then take 2 more, one at 12, and one at 25 at sundown. To develop, use a red safelight and develop until done. Be sure to print them. What looks too thin will sometimes print very well.
do you know the iso of mamo xray film? I have some Kodak box and always expose them incorrectly

[Luke79]

my small beauty shot on fuji xray green film


http://s14.directupload.net/images/121024/lggngb2q.jpg

[cpjfox]

Both shot on a Calumet Monorail with Schneider Symmar-S 210mm f/5.6 with Fuji RX-U

82483
Hudson Bomber at RNZAF Museum, Christchurch, NZ
5s f/8.0 @ 50ISO
LC29 at 1:29 for 4mins @ 20DegC

82484
Portrait by Sunset
1/30s f/16 @ 400ISO
LC29 at 1:29 for 8mins @ 20DegC

I haven't had an opportunity to scan the negatives properly yet, I've used my iPad as a Lightbox for a Digital SLR snap which I invert in Lightroom.

[ScottPhotoCo]

Wow. Finally made it through the entire thread! Good stuff here! I an going to order 8x10 and 10x12 film tomorrow and play! In reading through this thread I noted that a lot of you are favoring green latitude over the blue latitude? Is there a reason why?

Thanks in advance.


Tim
www.scottphoto.co

[Michael Batchelor]

Wow. Finally made it through the entire thread! Good stuff here! I an going to order 8x10 and 10x12 film tomorrow and play! In reading through this thread I noted that a lot of you are favoring green latitude over the blue latitude? Is there a reason why?...

Green film basically gives one the same spectral response of the old "ortho" film from yesteryear, (Or current ortho film for that matter.)

Blue film is an even more restricted color sensitivity, and looks more like a tin-type (to me at least).

[premortho]

To Scott photo co; "Green" is a nickname for the more Orthochromatic films. Like Versachrome, or Verichrome,or Isochrome. "Blue" means a film very much like the early dry plates, like Orthonon, Seed 26, Banner X, except the "blue"films are 3 stops faster. But they do not record colors as well as "green. Blue film means it over records ultra-violet, violet and blue light. Green film, because it responds to green light, as well as u.v., violet and blue light is more versatile, as the color rendition, or tones can be controlled with filters. Some of the most beautiful photographs I've ever seen were on ortho film, by someone like Adolf Fassbender, Edward Steichen, and Gertrude Kasabien. I was in a "junque" store in Essex, Massachusetts, and found a photo book by the American Pictorialist Society. It was an annual production, this one was from 1938, If I recall correctly, and I was swept away by the exhibition prints of a woman I can't remember, who used only a 116 size box camera, or a Pocket Folding Kodak 3A, in 122 film size. For the younger set, 122 film yields a negative 3 1/2 inch by 5 3/8 (or 5 1/2), 116; 2 1/2 by 4 1/4.

[premortho]

I've done a little more historical research on the speed of ortho film. Ansco's comment on their Super Speed Plenachrome was that all exposures would be fully timed between 3 hours after sunrise to 3 hours before sunset. Their suggestion is to double the exposure earlier and later, and double it again closer to sunrise/sunset. Super Speed Plenachrome would today be rated at ASA 80, or 100.
ISO box speed is just an approximation where Ortho film is concerned, and I think all x-ray film is Ortho, either mild (blue) or more orthochromatic (green). So the color temperature of the light affects exposure. On a summer day, between 10.00 Am and 3.00pm, in the afternoon. probably 100 or 80. Shoot it between sunrise and when the sun is 15o above the horizon, and it could be 25 or even lower. Why? Red light. Ortho doesn't record red light hardly at all. I suggest you take 4 exposures, one at 100, and one at 50 in the middle of the day. then take 2 more, one at 12, and one at 25 at sundown. To develop, use a red safelight and develop until done. Be sure to print them. What looks too thin will sometimes print very well.

[ScottPhotoCo]

Thank you all for the quick answers! 8x10 and 10x12 green latitude film ordered. Now to find some hangers and tanks...


Tim
www.scottphoto.co

[ImSoNegative]

here is one i shot today, calumet c1, 480 red dot artar, yellow no. 12 filter, green sensitive xray film, scratched while being squeegied, %^&%$

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8475/8136989624_df533b23d8_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/8136989624/)
The Overseer (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/8136989624/) by J. Golden (http://www.flickr.com/people/28713901@N04/), on Flickr

[Michael Batchelor]

The green and blue designations indicate which type of holder to use for real X-ray work.

The holder has a coated plate that is fluorescent, and glows on the xray beam. While some of the xrays expose the film directly, the glowing plate acts as a multiplier. This reduces the exposure to the patient.

[Randy]

J, I don't think there is any need to squeegee them because the emulsion has such a "matte" finish to it when it dries. I have had no problem with water spots, and the risk of scratches is so high with this film anyway.
I notice some, like you, use a yellow filter. What effect does that have?

[ImSoNegative]

hi randy, i use a yellow filter because it seems to tame the contrast alot, i have tried to print a couple of my negs that i shot not using a filter and they were very difficult even with a 00 filter under my enlarger light, i printed a neg that was shot with the no. 12 yellow filter, much better than the others. for me the xray film has always scanned pretty well but printing it was another story. i have been looking into carbon printing and i was wondering if i need the yellow filter if im going to use carbon transfer.

[Randy]

Good to hear J. I have not tried any filters yet because I "assumed" they would not have a noticeable / beneficial affect. But, I have not done any contact printing either, just scanning, and the scans are good to great.

Guessing your above pic was in a cemetery? When I am (which is often) at a loss as to where to go shooting, I almost always end up in a local cemetery.

[ImSoNegative]

ya it was in a cemetary, after i dev the film and scanned i noticed a whole family of spiders living under the basket? the angel was holding, kind of creepy lol. hey did you guys get some snow up there?

[jon.oman]

here is one i shot today, calumet c1, 480 red dot artar, yellow no. 12 filter, green sensitive xray film, scratched while being squeegied, %^&%$

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8475/8136989624_df533b23d8_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/8136989624/)
The Overseer (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/8136989624/) by J. Golden (http://www.flickr.com/people/28713901@N04/), on Flickr

I really like this shot. It seems to bring out the best in the x-ray film. I'll have to try a yellow filter.....

You can save that image using Photoshop, etc. The scratch is easy to remove. Then, maybe a digital negative?

[Randy]

No snow for us (unless I slept through it last night and it didn't stick), though about an hour north/west of us (above Roanoke VA) they got a little.

I did notice the spiders under the basket. Am guessing Daddy Long-legs?

What you could do about the scratch is just say it was a glass plate neg that you dropped and broke :) I'd believe you.

[ImSoNegative]

yes daddy long legs i think, ok randy sounds good, glass plate, broke it and pieced it back together, not a bad job huh? : )

[Luke79]

J. Are you using Green or Blue xray Film with the yellow Filter ?
Greetings

[ImSoNegative]

Hi luke, i use green with a yellow no. 12 (minus blue), i tried it with a no. 8 first didnt work as well as a 12. i expose it at 100.

[Randy]

J. Are you using Green or Blue xray Film with the yellow Filter ?
Greetings
Luke, if you go back and look at his post on the previous page, he states... "using green sensitive xray film rated at 100, calumet c1 camera, 14 in. petzval, yellow no.12 filter"

EDIT - Rats, he beat me to it.

[Luke79]

Thx a Lot

[ScottPhotoCo]

I just received my first 10x12 green latitude film (seems the 8x10 is on back order). My question is this: Should X-ray film be stored in the refrigerator like "regular" film? Other than how delicate it is, are there any other special handling requirements?

I'm planning to tray develop with glass bottom trays (smooth piece of glass or plexi in the bottom of a standard plastic tray.

Thanks!

Tim
www.ScottPhoto.co

[Vaughn]

I do not think that the keeping properties of some x-ray film is as good as standard film. A box of Agfa that I had out had the fridge for a long time (6+ months) had the emulsion soften and fall off in the fixing bath and through the washing stage. But from a box in the fridge of the same emulsion batch, no problems. In both cases, the fixer and fixing time was the same (film was unexposed in both cases, also).

[EdWorkman]

Emulsion on both sides
Handle with very care to avoid scratches

[LargeFormatPhotography]

Okay, So after reading a lot about people shooting with XRAY FILM and seeing their results I too want to try this. My question is this ..... I have looked online high and low but can not come up with any answers to this simple question. Is XRAY film available in 4x5 format and if so where can I get it? Any and all information would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

[Tav Walraven]

LFP....
Don't think it is in that size. Check out....www.zzmedical.com and .....www csxonline.com


tw

[LargeFormatPhotography]

LFP....
Don't think it is in that size. Check out....www.zzmedical.com and .....www csxonline.com


tw



Thank you very much :)

[Tav Walraven]

You could always cut it down from 8x10. I have some 14"x36" that I'm about to cut down to 12x20. With x-ray prices, I don't mind practicing with the razor blade.

tw

[Michael Batchelor]

And you can work under the proper safelight so cutting instead like TMax

[Curt]

I bought four 14x17, 2 are Wolf and the other two are Kodak. An 11x14 fits sideways, the 14" across the bottom of the hanger. The top clips on the rod do not bend down far enough so I bought some film clips that I will attach to a new rod on each end. I'll connect the rod to the top with stainless steel wire. If I were to advance to 14x17 film then I can make removal conversion rods. Bought them for ten dollars each.

[Joe Forks]

12x20 film hangers? is there such a beast? My large trays have ribs on the bottom and I already know that will be a problem from shooting this 8x10 xray, and of course the information in this thread. Anyone doing 12x20 in tanks? What did you use?

And how do you cut this stock down to size w/o scratching the @#$& out of it?

[Curt]

I haven't seen or heard of any that large. The reason hangers go up to 14x17 was the need for X-ray film. One would have to fabricate them. Also tanks would have to be made. Cutting film down has always been problematic. The more it's handled the greater the chance of a scratch or getting it dirty.

[Vaughn]

12x20 film hangers? is there such a beast? My large trays have ribs on the bottom and I already know that will be a problem from shooting this 8x10 xray, and of course the information in this thread. Anyone doing 12x20 in tanks? What did you use?

And how do you cut this stock down to size w/o scratching the @#$& out of it?

I have used a rotary paper cutter with success (14x17 cut down to 7x17 and 8x10). I tape down a clean piece of smooth paper on the rotary cutter to prevent the scratches...and draw lines on the paper to help me line up the x-ray film.

[Curt]

Okay, So after reading a lot about people shooting with XRAY FILM and seeing their results I too want to try this. My question is this ..... I have looked online high and low but can not come up with any answers to this simple question. Is XRAY film available in 4x5 format and if so where can I get it? Any and all information would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

First, yes it was made and used. Used in a fluoro camera. When the area of interest was discovered the doctor ran the camera which was a sheet fed quick load and expose. Then the camera was taken to the darkroom where the sheets were fed into the processor. I did this at a children's hospital. It was a real PIA. Now it's digital which is excellent.

I've seen 4x5 X-ray sheet film a couple of times on the Internet. It was around. Good luck, keep searching.

[Jody_S]

Okay, So after reading a lot about people shooting with XRAY FILM and seeing their results I too want to try this. My question is this ..... I have looked online high and low but can not come up with any answers to this simple question. Is XRAY film available in 4x5 format and if so where can I get it? Any and all information would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

I shot this in 4x5 from time to time, I did cut my 8x10 into squares to do it (easy, with safelight and regular paper cutter). I noticed that my finished 4x5s had far fewer scratches than my 8x10s, which helped me realize the scratch problem wasn't with handling the film, loading into filmholders and such, but it was almost entirely due to my tray processing. I process 4x5 in a tank, I have virtually no scratches.

[Drew Bedo]

I used to be able to get medical ultrasound film (8x10) in the late 90s and early 2Ks. I exposed it at ISO 200 and developed it in its prolper chemistry in the X-Ray darkroom . . .an automatic roler transport system for the X-Ray films: 90 seconds from dry to dry!

Nearly all medical imaging is digital now and I am retired, so these are just memories of the good-ol-days.

[Holdenrichards]

This image is a test of sorts for X-Ray and HC110 development. I think That HC110 needs a restrainer when used with X-Ray because the other images in this batch had over developed only in some areas and were very foamy when washed. Overall though, I think this looks very film-like and unlike an X-Ray. Which is what I'm trying to work out as its so much less expensive to use. High dilution X-Ray, hmmm.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8061/8180834889_e091fd1f49_c.jpg

1903 Eastman View No. 1 - Schneider Symmar S 240mm - f/45 - Kodak B/RA X-Ray Film - 8x10 Film - HC 110 1+200 - Unaltered Negative Scan

[ScottPhotoCo]

This image is a test of sorts for X-Ray and HC110 development. I think That HC110 needs a restrainer when used with X-Ray because the other images in this batch had over developed only in some areas and were very foamy when washed. Overall though, I think this looks very film-like and unlike an X-Ray. Which is what I'm trying to work out as its so much less expensive to use. High dilution X-Ray, hmmm.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8061/8180834889_e091fd1f49_c.jpg

1903 Eastman View No. 1 - Schneider Symmar S 240mm - f/45 - Kodak B/RA X-Ray Film - 8x10 Film - HC 110 1+200 - Unaltered Negative Scan

Holden,

Are you tray processing? This looks really good. I'm getting ready to shoot some 10x12 green latitude film and attempting to work out some details before diving in.

Thanks in advance!

Tim
www.ScottPhoto.co

[Michael Batchelor]

I noticed that my finished 4x5s had far fewer scratches than my 8x10s, which helped me realize the scratch problem wasn't with handling the film, loading into filmholders and such, but it was almost entirely due to my tray processing. I process 4x5 in a tank, I have virtually no scratches.

Try using a Unidrum to process. I just saw some go on eBay cheap. But others are priced like a kings ransom. Stay away from those.

I have been able to process four 8x10 sheets with no problems this way in my big drum.

Having said that, be aware that the emulsion is very, very soft. And you can easily scratch the back side facing the wall of the drum when you take it out. (Yes, this is the voice of experience speaking.)

If you plan to strip the back side with chlorine bleach that's no problem. But if you're going to leave both sides for density then be careful removing it from the drum.

I suspect a Beseler drum will work too, but no first hand experience.

[Jody_S]

Try using a Unidrum to process. I just saw some go on eBay cheap. But others are priced like a kings ransom. Stay away from those.

I have been able to process four 8x10 sheets with no problems this way in my big drum.

Having said that, be aware that the emulsion is very, very soft. And you can easily scratch the back side facing the wall of the drum when you take it out. (Yes, this is the voice of experience speaking.)

If you plan to strip the back side with chlorine bleach that's no problem. But if you're going to leave both sides for density then be careful removing it from the drum.

I suspect a Beseler drum will work too, but no first hand experience.

I have so far avoided drums and tubes and the like because I don't want uneven developing of the back side. No I don't strip it. I suppose a ridged drum would allow some chemicals to reach the back, but wouldn't the ridges cause marks? The film is quite stiff, it won't curl well into a drum, either.

[SMBooth]

Jody if the back of the film is touching the drum it will mark the film, but yes the ridges do allow even development to the back

[Holdenrichards]

I am tray processing, I saw some other great high dilution examples here. I expose @25 ASA and at that speed the dev time is generally 3:30 of constant agitation in 1+100 Rodinal or 7 minutes stand. So I did 1+200 for 14 minutes in HC110 to see if it would work, 1+100 and@50 ASA (7 minutes constant agitation) is a good place to start with your film and then experiment

[Holdenrichards]

thanks!

[mat4226]

IMO, hangers and tanks are the best way to develop this film:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8312/8033096304_7ab203a426_c.jpg

Eastman Commercial B 8x10 + Fujinon 210mm
Kodak Green X-ray film + Obisidian Aqua 1:500

[Corran]

Holden, you seem to really nail your development. I've recently gone back to the drawing board with the Fuji green-sensitive stuff to try to tame the highlights. The green sensitivity really screws with the contrast sometimes when I'm not expecting it, especially with sky in the photo - even when the negative looks good the contrast is too high. Well anyway, here's a couple sheets from yesterday:

http://www.oceanstarproductions.com/photosharing/xrg01.jpg

http://www.oceanstarproductions.com/photosharing/xrg02.jpg

[Holdenrichards]

Holden, you seem to really nail your development. I've recently gone back to the drawing board with the Fuji green-sensitive stuff to try to tame the highlights. The green sensitivity really screws with the contrast sometimes when I'm not expecting it, especially with sky in the photo - even when the negative looks good the contrast is too high. Well anyway, here's a couple sheets from yesterday:



Hey,
Let me say both of these images are compelling. I like the comps and the location, and yes, highlights are usually bit blown in landscape shooting using ortho, So my goal is to get it to behave more like regular film generally. I saw some earlier 1+200 development in this thread and its beautiful So I'll go that route for a bit. With Rodinal you may not need a restrainer but with HC110 you definitely do,
H

[ImSoNegative]

IMO, hangers and tanks are the best way to develop this film:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8312/8033096304_7ab203a426_c.jpg

Eastman Commercial B 8x10 + Fujinon 210mm
Kodak Green X-ray film + Obisidian Aqua 1:500

very nice portrait! i dont have hangers or tanks but after several on top of several sheets scratched, fingerprinted, yada yada, I learned that by putting glass in the bottom of the trays and wearing gloves when loading and unloading film, and dont squeegie, my film has been mark free now for about 8 sheets. again that is a very nice portrait.

[ImSoNegative]

Here is one I did about a week ago, shot with a calumet c1, 19in. red dot artar wide open, green xray. a few dust bunnies

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8480/8183523263_cd7dfd8978_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/8183523263/)
Rebecca (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/8183523263/) by J. Golden (http://www.flickr.com/people/28713901@N04/), on Flickr

[Corran]

Hey,
Let me say both of these images are compelling. I like the comps and the location, and yes, highlights are usually bit blown in landscape shooting using ortho, So my goal is to get it to behave more like regular film generally. I saw some earlier 1+200 development in this thread and its beautiful So I'll go that route for a bit. With Rodinal you may not need a restrainer but with HC110 you definitely do,
H

Well thanks! Yes, the look of "regular" film is what I'd like to get if possible.

Have you found that N- development is really hard with this film? It seems I can get excellent negatives with normal or low-contrast lighting but even cutting development doesn't seem to really help contract an N- scene.

[ImSoNegative]

Well thanks! Yes, the look of "regular" film is what I'd like to get if possible.

Have you found that N- development is really hard with this film? It seems I can get excellent negatives with normal or low-contrast lighting but even cutting development doesn't seem to really help contract an N- scene.

I agree, xray film seems to be in a class all by itself:confused:

[Holdenrichards]

Well thanks! Yes, the look of "regular" film is what I'd like to get if possible.

Have you found that N- development is really hard with this film? It seems I can get excellent negatives with normal or low-contrast lighting but even cutting development doesn't seem to really help contract an N- scene.


I have found to over expose and under develop is the way to get all the shadows to pop. And yes I have just started down the N- path, it does work, but how much and how it works is what I mean to find out.

[ImSoNegative]

Hi Holden, do you develope by inspection or by a certain time? I usually set my timer to about 10 min. I soup in d76 1:4, if the developer is fresh usually after about 4 min. an image will begin to appear, most of the time after around 7 or 8 min I feel like its ready to pull from the dev. d76 is the only dev. i have ever used for xray film. would like to try some rodinal sometime

[Holdenrichards]

Most x-ray films developed in about seven minutes and rodinal 1+100. So I expect my developer to work in about seven minutes. But I still look at the results and adjust my times accordingly. So a combination of both approaches. Good luck!

[Jiri Vasina]

IMO, hangers and tanks are the best way to develop this film:

Eastman Commercial B 8x10 + Fujinon 210mm
Kodak Green X-ray film + Obisidian Aqua 1:500

Mat, this is a fantastic portrait... And the tonality is so nice...

Jiri

[jumanji]

How much ISO do you set for mammography X ray film?

[Michael Batchelor]

Jody if the back of the film is touching the drum it will mark the film, but yes the ridges do allow even development to the back

While I certainly don't claim to be an expert, this has been my experience too. I've probably developed 25 sheets of film in Unidrum cans, and chemical immersion for the back side doesn't seem to be an issue at all.

The ridges hold the film off the drum, so it doesn't stick tightly like BTZS tubes. But the rotating liquid under the film appears to lift the sheet off the ridges so that fluid flows around while the drum is rolling.

I do use the roller base, so the drum is constantly agitated. I suspect that if you tried to just fill it up and do stand development then there *WOULD* be a problem where the film touches the ribs. But I haven't tried this, so that's conjecture on my part.

Again, my experience is that the emulsion is extremely soft when wet, and removing it from the drum requires care. The good part is that by this time everything is done, and you're working with room lights on.

I have not tried to add any hardening to make the emulsion less delicate. I just treat it like EFKE, gently. I never hardened EFKE either.

Once it's dry it's hard just like any other film.

This thread is making me think again. I have to finish this job and get back home so I can get back in the darkroom.

[Holdenrichards]

How much ISO do you set for mammography X ray film?

Start with 50 ASA develop in Rodinal at 1+100 for 7 or 8 minutes and adjust from there. Caffenol and HC 110 also work nicely read this thread for times and info.

[ImSoNegative]

Start with 50 ASA develop in Rodinal at 1+100 for 7 or 8 minutes and adjust from there. Caffenol and HC 110 also work nicely read this thread for times and info.

Holden do you use a filter on your lens when you shoot xray?

[Holdenrichards]

Holden do you use a filter on your lens when you shoot xray?

I've tried a polarizer, thats interesting and ND filters.

[Holdenrichards]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8483/8187185622_4e1f81989f_c.jpg


1903 Eastman View No. 1 - Schneider Symmar S 240mm - f/45 - Kodak B/RA X-Ray Film - 8x10 Film - HC 110 1+200 - Unaltered Negative Scan

[madmax12]

Anyone have experience with HC 110 on green latitude X-ray film any help apt ways appreciated craig

[peter schrager]

mr madmax...no experience with the green but have used HC-110 with xray dupe film...1:3@75
works very nice...you get consistent results with this dev cause it's always fresh
Best, Peter

[madmax12]

Thank you. Peter How long were your developing times or did you just keep checking until you get the results you liked Thanx again

[Jody_S]

Jody if the back of the film is touching the drum it will mark the film, but yes the ridges do allow even development to the back

I've found someone locally with 3 drums of unknown brand and vintage, and a Patterson motor. I'm going to see it all Monday, I may make a major change in my routine. But frankly my x-ray negs are all so badly scratched that they're unusable, unless they're of a minimalist composition where I can clone out entire sections of the image.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Stop with the drums and all of the complications, please!!! I have been developing 8x10 x-ray film in TANKS for a long time. Over 200 sheets. Don't reinvent the wheel. Scratch free negative can be easy if you pay attention while loading and unloading and develop them in hangers and tanks period! Take my advice or continue to make yourself crazy with scratches. Sorry for the rant but come on now!

[Corran]

I've done about 100 sheets of 8x10, all in a BTZS tube. I don't even try to not scratch the rear emulsion when I put it in, but I simply strip that image with bleach. I don't know why some are so afraid of the stripping. It takes me 30 seconds with bleach diluted 1:1 with water. Other than when I do something dumb, I don't have any scratches on the front emulsion.

[JMB]

Stop with the drums and all of the complications, please!!! I have been developing 8x10 x-ray film in TANKS for a long time. Over 200 sheets. Don't reinvent the wheel. Scratch free negative can be easy if you pay attention while loading and unloading and develop them in hangers and tanks period! Take my advice or continue to make yourself crazy with scratches. Sorry for the rant but come on now!


Poor Jim has been telling us this for a very long time, even in English. It works. And it's a pleasant way to develop any sheet film very sharply (semi-stand) it seems to me (at least so far based upon growing but still limited experience).

[Michael Batchelor]

Poor Jim has been telling us this for a very long time, even in English. It works. And it's a pleasant way to develop any sheet film very sharply (semi-stand) it seems to me (at least so far based upon growing but still limited experience).

Well I'll admit that I have been collecting stuff to do it.

[j.e.simmons]

I've been using green x-ray film for about 3-years now. I find that the combination of tank development, Pyrocat (I use the PC version), and care in loading the film holders yields negatives that are almost always scratch free.
juan

[ScottPhotoCo]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8483/8187185622_4e1f81989f_c.jpg


1903 Eastman View No. 1 - Schneider Symmar S 240mm - f/45 - Kodak B/RA X-Ray Film - 8x10 Film - HC 110 1+200 - Unaltered Negative Scan

Looking great! Is this straight HC-110 1+200 or did you end up adding anything? I am going to try your process with the 2-sided X-ray film and see how it works out. :)

[Holdenrichards]

I added a restrainer, 1ml of kBr to 1000ml of developer...

[ScottPhotoCo]

I added a restrainer, 1ml of kBr to 1000ml of developer...

Thank you!

[davidrcarls]

I didn't know KBr came as a liquid. I have this white powder KBr I could use, and if the S.G. is the same would equal 1 mg per liter of developer... any thoughts???

[Holdenrichards]

1 gram dry weight for 1000 ml...

[Randy]

This camera (http://www.historiccamera.com/cgi-bin/librarium/pm.cgi?action=display&login=no3abrownie) was given to me by a good friend so I could experiment.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/3a.jpg

I don't know if it qualifies as "large Format". It uses a large roll film (still has the wooden spool in it). Image size is 5 1/2" X 3 1/4". Of course there is no film available so I cut some 8X10 X-ray film in half. Not to bad but I have some light leaking in.

Self Portrait
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/img016b.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/img018a.jpg

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Some nice images from everyone. Keep them coming and remember Prints or negative scans???? Here is a shot from Weston Beach at Point Lobos. Shot on Blue X-Ray film. 8x10 carbon transfer print.

[Ralph Weimer]

Amaryllis

Crown Graphic 4x5
Fuji HR-S, not stripped, Rodinal 1:100
Oriental Seagull VCFB, PF 13086012

[Holdenrichards]

I don't know if it qualifies as "large Format". It uses a large roll film (still has the wooden spool in it). Image size is 5 1/2" X 3 1/4". Of course there is no film available so I cut some 8X10 X-ray film in half. Not to bad but I have some light leaking in.



These look very good!

[Michael Cienfuegos]

This camera (http://www.historiccamera.com/cgi-bin/librarium/pm.cgi?action=display&login=no3abrownie) was given to me by a good friend so I could experiment.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/3a.jpg

I don't know if it qualifies as "large Format". It uses a large roll film (still has the wooden spool in it). Image size is 5 1/2" X 3 1/4". Of course there is no film available so I cut some 8X10 X-ray film in half. Not to bad but I have some light leaking in.

Self Portrait



Your camera is a Kodak 3A Pocket Brownie. It takes 122 roll film. Believe it or not, there is still some floating around, I have about five rolls, but it is such a PITA to develop that I haven't used the camera. I like your results, I have some 5x7 green film, I 'll have to try it in my Brownie.

[bvaughn4]

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/3a.jpg

Cool Randy,

I just snagged one of these off eBay to shoot some wet plate with. Inspired by a fellow in Europe. Looked like a convenient size camera to take out of studio for quick setup. Unfortunately, my bellows were black rather than red!

[jon.oman]

I finally got out on Monday to take a couple of images. It has been too long!

8x10 Pinhole Camera
120 mm
400 microns

X-Ray film - 80 ISO
5 minutes 30 seconds
D76 full strength
6 minutes @ 68 degrees F.

http://www.gophotog.org/allphotos/pinhole/medium_photos/PinholeBridgeMagnolia.jpg

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Jon, I love this. Nice going.

[jon.oman]

Jon, I love this. Nice going.

Thanks Jim! You are the person that inspired me to try the X-ray film......

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Jon, you are welcome. Everything about this imge I love. The framing is excellent and wonderful tones. Have you or how are you going to print it?

[jon.oman]

Jon, you are welcome. Everything about this imge I love. The framing is excellent and wonderful tones. Have you or how are you going to print it?

I'm really happy with this image, and am glad that you think it is a good one!

My first print will be with my Epson 3880. But, I will be making a tea-toned cyanotype at some point. I have the chemicals for that, and a plate burner.

I would really like to try a carbon print, but I have never worked with this process.....

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Jon, if I can help with the carbon let me know. I've taught many on-line students.

[ShawnHoke]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8427295176_421a428075_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/)
Shake Shack at Night, 8x10 Fuji HR-T X-Ray Film (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

Fuji HR-T Green Sensitive X-Ray Film
8x10 Eastman View Camera No. 2D
Schneider 300mm f5.6 (shot at f11)
Meter called for 30 seconds, but I exposed for 1 minute due to reciprocity
Tray developed in Rodinal 1:100 for 6 minutes and 30 seconds

[Tri Tran]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8427295176_421a428075_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/)
Shake Shack at Night, 8x10 Fuji HR-T X-Ray Film (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

Fuji HR-T Green Sensitive X-Ray Film
8x10 Eastman View Camera No. 2D
Schneider 300mm f5.6 (shot at f11)
Meter called for 30 seconds, but I exposed for 1 minute due to reciprocity
Tray developed in Rodinal 1:100 for 6 minutes and 30 seconds


Beautiful, plenty of shadow details. Great film.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Nice one, Jon.

[jon.oman]

Nice one, Jon.

Thanks Andrew!

[ShawnHoke]

Jon, the vegetation came out so nicely in your shot. I can't wait to shoot some greenery around here once we get some. :)

[jon.oman]

Jon, the vegetation came out so nicely in your shot. I can't wait to shoot some greenery around here once we get some. :)

Thanks! I've enjoyed working with this film. And, it is so much less expensive than other film! I just hope it stays that way.....

[ShawnHoke]

I just ordered three more boxes just in case. :)

Before I posted my examples to my blog for sharing, I thought "Do I really wanna tell people how cheap AND decent this film is?"

[Holdenrichards]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8427295176_421a428075_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/)
Shake Shack at Night, 8x10 Fuji HR-T X-Ray Film (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

Fuji HR-T Green Sensitive X-Ray Film
8x10 Eastman View Camera No. 2D
Schneider 300mm f5.6 (shot at f11)
Meter called for 30 seconds, but I exposed for 1 minute due to reciprocity
Tray developed in Rodinal 1:100 for 6 minutes and 30 seconds

Great photograph!

[Rod_B]

Hi,

Some great X-ray film images here. I'd love to try some 8x10 Fuji HRT, but, being based in the UK, I'm unable to obtain supplies of any X-ray film whatsoever. Having completed several internet searches, it seems that there are no European suppliers and none of the US suppliers will ship beyond Canada.

Is this a conspiracy, or is it just that many European medical establishments have already moved over to digital X-ray images?

Kindest regards,

Rod.

[Jody_S]

There appear to be regulations against selling it to non-licensed medical practitioners, in practice that often bars sales to private individuals as well.

[Barry Kirsten]

I've seen it on eBay - don't know if there are better sources.

Barry.

[C. D. Keth]

There appear to be regulations against selling it to non-licensed medical practitioners, in practice that often bars sales to private individuals as well.

Are you talking the film itself or the rare earth screens used to expose the film in an x-ray plate?

[Andrew O'Neill]

Hi Rod, are you sure you cannot get it from http://www.cxsonline.com/ ?

[Rod_B]

Hi Andrew,

Many thanks for the link, but I've already checked that supplier. They will only ship to US and Canada, as will all of the Ebay sellers I've tried. The only X-ray film available here seems to be small strips for dental applications.

Kindest regards,

Rod.

[Jody_S]

Are you talking the film itself or the rare earth screens used to expose the film in an x-ray plate?

The film.

[C. D. Keth]

The film.

That's very strange. There's absolutely no harm that could come of somebody buying some big film.

[Ari]

That's very strange. There's absolutely no harm that could come of somebody buying some big film.

Well, they might want to buy bigger film one day. :)

[Jody_S]

That's very strange. There's absolutely no harm that could come of somebody buying some big film.

I remember running up against this when I was trying to get some shipped to Canada. There are regulations for medical supplies, that they can only be sold to licensed medical facilities. X-Ray film counts, though no one in the USA seems to care. I finally found an ebay seller with a stock of somewhat random products who would ship a flat-rate box to me filled with as much as it would hold (cost me about $100 for 3 boxes of 100 shts).

[ImSoNegative]

i was testing my 14in. petzval with green sensitive xray film, camera was my c1. plan on doing a portrait project with this lens/film combo soon.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8186/8433689283_252176c7d5_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/8433689283/)
lens, film test 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28713901@N04/8433689283/) by J. Golden (http://www.flickr.com/people/28713901@N04/), on Flickr

[jon.oman]

I made these images on Monday, February 4th.

8x10 Pinhole Camera
120 mm
400 microns

X-Ray film - 80 ISO

D76 full strength
6 minutes, 50 seconds @ 65 degrees F.

#1 (15 minutes 38 seconds)
http://www.gophotog.org/allphotos/pinhole/medium_photos/MagnoliaOak.jpg
#2 (5 minutes 30 seconds)
http://www.gophotog.org/allphotos/pinhole/medium_photos/MagnolaOak2.jpg
#3 (5 minutes 30 seconds)
http://www.gophotog.org/allphotos/pinhole/medium_photos/MagnoliaOak3.jpg

[jon.oman]

I made these images on Monday, February 4th.

8x10 Pinhole Camera
120 mm
400 microns

X-Ray film - 80 ISO

D76 full strength
6 minutes, 50 seconds @ 65 degrees

#1 (15 minutes, 38 seconds)
http://www.gophotog.org/allphotos/pinhole/medium_photos/ParkBench1.jpg
#2 (55 seconds)
http://www.gophotog.org/allphotos/pinhole/medium_photos/ParkBench2.jpg

[JoeV]

Great job, Jon.

~Joe

[Roboflick]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8427295176_421a428075_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/)
Shake Shack at Night, 8x10 Fuji HR-T X-Ray Film (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

Fuji HR-T Green Sensitive X-Ray Film
8x10 Eastman View Camera No. 2D
Schneider 300mm f5.6 (shot at f11)
Meter called for 30 seconds, but I exposed for 1 minute due to reciprocity
Tray developed in Rodinal 1:100 for 6 minutes and 30 seconds

great one!
were people curious about your camera?

Nik

[SMBooth]

I made these images on Monday, February 4th.

8x10 Pinhole Camera
120 mm
400 microns

X-Ray film - 80 ISO

D76 full strength
6 minutes, 50 seconds @ 65 degrees F.



Great tone from your film, are these direct scans or somewhat enhanced with contrast and levels controls in PS?

[ShawnHoke]

great one!
were people curious about your camera?

Nik

Yeah there were. It's interesting here in NYC when I take the 8x10 out. You can hear stuff like "That's a REAL camera." Often people will stop to talk about it and ask to look through the glass. I once had a long chat with a group of older teenagers at night in a rough part of Brooklyn. I thought I was in trouble for sure. But they were so much fun - "Now that cat is OLD SCHOOL," stuff like that. :)

Some people think it's a movie camera, which is kind of weird.

If the weather is nice I enjoy chatting with people about it. I try to keep a junk developed and sleeved LF negative in my bag to show people who are curious.

[ShawnHoke]

Jon, I always love the color of the vegetation in your shots. Almost looks like IR!

[jon.oman]

Great job, Jon.

~Joe

Thanks Joe!

[jon.oman]

Great tone from your film, are these direct scans or somewhat enhanced with contrast and levels controls in PS?

I had to use levels and contrast changes to bring out the best detail. I also used a B&W layer to remove the blue cast of the x-ray film.

[jon.oman]

Jon, I always love the color of the vegetation in your shots. Almost looks like IR!

Thanks! I think it is the Spanish Moss that covers everything.....

[Mattis]

Hi, all. I just purchased a box of film. Just have a quick question about loading - are there notches? If not, is there any particular way I should be orienting the film in the loader, or does any which way work? Thanks.

[Corran]

No notches on the double-sided Fuji (actually it has rounded corners). If it's the double-sided stuff, any manufacturer, it doesn't matter whatsoever which way you load it.

[jon.oman]

Hi, all. I just purchased a box of film. Just have a quick question about loading - are there notches? If not, is there any particular way I should be orienting the film in the loader, or does any which way work? Thanks.

There are no notches that I have seen. You can load it in any direction. I cut a bit off of one corner, and treat it like the notched corner of a regular sheet of film. This helps me later when I set up the scanner.

[Mattis]

Thanks for your quick responses. Hopefully I'll be able to get in some shots before this supposedly epic snowstorm starts!

[Mattis]

Hi, all. Does anyone have any recommendations for a small red LED device that i can plug directly into a wall? Don't want to have to deal with hooking things up to power supplies.

[ghostcount]

Red Binary clock. (http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/59e0/)

[Bill_4606]

Hi, all. Does anyone have any recommendations for a small red LED device that i can plug directly into a wall? Don't want to have to deal with hooking things up to power supplies.

For about $9, I ordered an LED "bulb" from Amazon: Color Changing Light Bulb With Remote, B003MB6UEO

It's a little bright so you want to keep its distance from the film. But that wasn't much of an issue for me because it came with a remote control.

You can find other LED light bulb solutions on Amazon and around the web. Just make sure you do a little testing with a piece of film before you open the whole package under the light.

Bill

[ShawnHoke]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/8486030960_c6e1e21bc8_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8486030960/)
Grand Central, Station, NYC, 8x10 Fuji HRT Xray Film (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8486030960/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

[Peter Lewin]

Shawn: First, Wow! Second, don't you need to get a permit from Grand Central to set up a tripod? Was it hard to get, or the picture hard to take?

[John Kasaian]

Where does Agfa produce thier x-ray film? If in the EU, maybe you can "get it straight from the horse's mouth", so to speak!
Hi Andrew,

Many thanks for the link, but I've already checked that supplier. They will only ship to US and Canada, as will all of the Ebay sellers I've tried. The only X-ray film available here seems to be small strips for dental applications.

Kindest regards,

Rod.

[jon.oman]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/8486030960_c6e1e21bc8_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8486030960/)
Grand Central, Station, NYC, 8x10 Fuji HRT Xray Film (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8486030960/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

Great image!

[UlbabraB]

Stunning image!! I didn't know that it's allowed to shoot with a tripod and a big camera in such places...

[Rod_B]

Where does Agfa produce thier x-ray film? If in the EU, maybe you can "get it straight from the horse's mouth", so to speak!

Hi John,

Thanks for your suggestion. I've just managed to order some from Chicago Medical Supply via Ebay. It's Agfa green and the boxes are labelled "Made in Belgium, finished in USA", so I guess that answers your question as to where it's produced - not sure what "finished in USA" means, though?

Kindest regards,

Rod.

[ShawnHoke]

Stunning image!! I didn't know that it's allowed to shoot with a tripod and a big camera in such places...

To Peter and Filippo, thank you and yes you have to have a permit to shoot with a tripod in Grand Central. I only had an hour and did not anticipate how many people would stop to ask questions and talk. Luckily the Statin Master came out to see how I was doing and gave me an extra half hour. Was a fun shoot! Some guy stopped to tell me that he was actively looking for an 8x10 Derdorff. Thought that was cool. :cool:

[Randy]

8X10 CRT green @ ISO 100 in HC-110 "H". Did a detail crop below.
I honestly don't see a need to strip the back side as some have done, though I guess I should experiment at some point.

B&L 1C 11X14 @ f/11
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/mushrooms1.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/mushrooms2.jpg

[SMBooth]

Neg scan of Old Gauges on a Marshall (1931) Compound Horizontol Steam Engine
Green Kodak X-Ray, 810 in Rodinal 1:100 for 6 min in tray. Not Stripped.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8531/8504655319_9356ccba32.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/isisford/8504655319/)
Steam Gauges (http://www.flickr.com/photos/isisford/8504655319/)

[ShawnHoke]

Damn, Shane. That's really lovely. Well seen.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Is it true that shooting the double-sided film you can take a photo of the front and back of your subject at the same time?

Yes, Dakotah, it's true....remarkable film.

[photoevangelist]

Question:
Does anyone have any experience with Fuji HR-U 30 or Fuji RX?

I really like the Fuji HRT and Kodak B/RA images in Caffenol examples by Holdenrichards and the Kodak MXG images in Rodinal 1:100 by SMBooth. Unfortunately, the Fuji HR and Fuji RX are the only available films offered in Korea (that I can see). I could get some Afga Green or Blue X-ray films from e-bay, but the best I've seen with those are Agfa + Pyro or Obsidian Agua. Both of those will be hard for me to do here in Korea. Rodinal, Diafine, Caffenol, XTOL, D-76, and even HC-110 would be better.

A box of 8x10 is $80, so I don't mind importing the films. I could get 2 or 3 boxes + shipping for cheaper. Problem is I can't find a lot of people that ship internationally.

[Corran]

Lee - if you don't mind paying all the shipping fees and such and can arrange reimbursement as a Paypal "gift" payment, I'd be happy to send you as much Fuji HRT as you want at cost.

[photoevangelist]

Bryan, you're a godsend! I'm waiting to hear back from a seller on the bay. If it falls through, I'll take you up on that offer.

[Corran]

Cool. I'll have to check how much can fit in a medium flat-rate box. If you only want one box I could probably ship it in a padded envelope - but I think that's a bit uneconomical either way with shipping costs being what they are (they've gone up recently so I'm not 100% sure how much it'll be).

[rdelung]

Just a question about 8x10 green film. I just purchased a box of 100 sheets of Green X-ray film. I would like to put into the freezer what I don't use. What can anyone tell me about storing my un-used film ( room temp.) film? Is there any type of storage devices out there? I only have the box that the film came in, and nothing else. thanks, R.W.Delung

[Andrew O'Neill]

I took the 8x10 film out of its box and put it inside a 100 sheet photo paper box. Taped it shut, slipped it inside very large ziplock bag and stuck in the freezer. The box that the green 8x10 film came in is pretty bad.

[Jody_S]

I think I'm finally getting the hang of this x-ray film thing (HR-T). There is a narrow tonal range in the photo, because,... x-ray film has a narrow tonal range.

90431
Fuji HR-T with G-Claron 240/9 @f16 for 1/30, dev in HC-110 1:31 for 3.5 mins then back side stripped

[photoevangelist]

I think I'm finally getting the hang of this x-ray film thing (HR-T). There is a narrow tonal range in the photo, because,... x-ray film has a narrow tonal range.

90431
Fuji HR-T with G-Claron 240/9 @f16 for 1/30, dev in HC-110 1:31 for 3.5 mins then back side stripped

Very nice! What did you rate it at? I'm probably going to order 3 boxes of the same stuff.

[Jody_S]

Very nice! What did you rate it at? I'm probably going to order 3 boxes of the same stuff.

160. I started out at 100, moved to 200, eventually settled on 160.

[photoevangelist]

Has anyone heard of Fuji HR-A (~$50) or HR-U30 (~$55)? This is all the Fuji that's available in Korea.

Kodak MX-G (~$60) and Agfa ORTHO CP-G Plus (~$55) are also available in Korea.

Prices are for 8x10, 100 sheet boxes. I guess I could experiment, but I'd like to go with information that forum members have already worked with. I could also buy Fuji HR-T from eBay ($32 x3 = $96 + $64 shipping $160 / 3 = $53). Not much savings, but they are tried and tested emulsions.

[photoevangelist]

...and do you do a prewash?

[photoevangelist]

Found the Fuji Super HR-A locally for ~$40. Guess I'll try this. :)

Walking in to buy the Xray film was like going in to buy girl scout cookies, except they had only one flavor. They had all the popular sizes though. If I get good at this, I might use the 7x17 in my F&S banquet camera. I guess this is the only emulsion that is used down here.

Probably cut this film down to 4x5 to do some tests to find out what the ISO is in Diafine. Then I might work my way towards Rodinal or Caffenol. I was told this is a high speed emulsion, so I'm guessing 400.

[SergeiR]

I would like to thank all you folks, who posted here and nudged me to finally try it.. While it seems to be a bit easy to scratch Xray film turns out to be rather fun and easy(and cheap) way to expriment.. i am going to order me some blue one now (tried green) to see if i can get "old look" out of it ;)

8x10 green kodak (full one). 1+50 Rodinal, shot as iso 100, developed for 17 minutes with constant agitation in unidrum.
No stripping, pretty much straight scan.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8240/8532442143_2603c0778d_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8532442143/)
Joseph (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8532442143/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Sergei, beautiful portrait! I've always felt the x-ray film would make a great film for portrait work. Bravo! What lens for that shot?

[SergeiR]

Sergei, beautiful portrait! I've always felt the x-ray film would make a great film for portrait work. Bravo! What lens for that shot?
thank you, Jim.

Its 300mm convertible Symmar @ f11.

[photoevangelist]

I would like to thank all you folks, who posted here and nudged me to finally try it.. While it seems to be a bit easy to scratch Xray film turns out to be rather fun and easy(and cheap) way to expriment.. i am going to order me some blue one now (tried green) to see if i can get "old look" out of it ;)

8x10 green kodak (full one). 1+50 Rodinal, shot as iso 100, developed for 17 minutes with constant agitation in unidrum.
No stripping, pretty much straight scan.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8240/8532442143_2603c0778d_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8532442143/)
Joseph (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergeistudio/8532442143/) by Sergei Rodionov (http://www.flickr.com/people/sergeistudio/), on Flickr

That's super!! I wonder why your developing times are longer than others that are processing Rodinal 1:100 for 3 or 4 minutes. This is outstanding!

[grzybu]

Few days ago i bought pack of Kodak green sensitive x-ray film to try LF ;)
This is my second LF shot.
Made with cartoon box camera and lens made with old large binocular objective.
120s@f/18. Developed in D76.
http://grzyboo.com/images/LF/_1040333_web.jpg

[photoevangelist]

Few days ago i bought pack of Kodak green sensitive x-ray film to try LF ;)
This is my second LF shot.
Made with cartoon box camera and lens made with old large binocular objective.
120s@f/18. Developed in D76.
http://grzyboo.com/images/LF/_1040333_web.jpg

Nice, it's square or almost. Is it 14x14?

[grzybu]

It's cropped from original 12x18cm frame. My cartoon box camera will fall apart if I'll try to rotate it vertically so only horizontal shots are possible so far ;)
I bought 18x24cm film, but really old holder which supposed to be 18x24 cm is in fact 13x18. 18x24 will fit but I'll have to figure out how to hold sheet inside. Probably some thin brass frame will solve this issue.
For now it's even better to test on half frame, until I'll make proper design and build real camera.

[SergeiR]

That's super!! I wonder why your developing times are longer than others that are processing Rodinal 1:100 for 3 or 4 minutes. This is outstanding!
Thanks. To be honest - i dont know why i used 17. Its just my "safe" number from where i normally start to experiment with film that i have no clue about. And i am too lazy to do strip tests :) So i just wing it.. Dullution 1+50 was a bit unusual for me, i typically work with 1+100 or 1+200, but i remembered someone using it here, so i figured - may as well :) (its funny how scan got a bit ripped off after saving it to 8 bit jpeg - there is no hotspot without details on his forehead in 16 bit - i .. i should've spotted it last night, but i was too tired and just wanted to get results out.. )