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Steve M Hostetter
13-Apr-2009, 15:41
My thoughts are to buy a 16x20" contact print frame, as recommended by B&S to print 11x14 negs...

My question is, what paper would you use to contact print to..? Is there a big difference in paper quality.? I will be using 11x14 negs from Ilford HP5

Since the paper acts as a border will that dictate a special kind of paper..?

should I stay will the same brand..? any tips on centering my 11x14 neg in the 16x20" contact print frame ?

I guess it all depends on how I want to present the photos.. How do you guys do it ? glass frames ,glassless??

regards Steve

Andrew O'Neill
13-Apr-2009, 16:54
You don't need to buy such a frame. Make an 11x14 window inside a piece of 16x20 inch black construction paper. Lay this on top of your printing paper so that the edges all line up. Stick your big negative inside the window, lay down your cover glass (which only needs to be slightly larger than your negative), and Bob's your uncle.
I've done this to centre 4x5 negs on 8x10 paper.
I've used Oriental VC and Ilford MG. Check and see if Lodima is cut to that size...it's a real contact printing paper and really nice. I've got a box of 8x10.

John Bowen
13-Apr-2009, 16:58
i'll second Lodima. Michael Smith is having it cut in 16x20 and other sizes. www.michaelandpaula.com for the details. A beautiful contact printing paper.

I use a vacuum easel to print my 7x17 negatives on 8x20 paper. works like a charm and much more efficient than using a contact printing frame.

Good luck

Steve M Hostetter
13-Apr-2009, 17:27
You don't need to buy such a frame. Make an 11x14 window inside a piece of 16x20 inch black construction paper. Lay this on top of your printing paper so that the edges all line up. Stick your big negative inside the window, lay down your cover glass (which only needs to be slightly larger than your negative), and Bob's your uncle.
I've done this to centre 4x5 negs on 8x10 paper.
I've used Oriental VC and Ilford MG. Check and see if Lodima is cut to that size...it's a real contact printing paper and really nice. I've got a box of 8x10.

Do I run into newton ring issues..?

Steve M Hostetter
13-Apr-2009, 17:41
i'll second Lodima. Michael Smith is having it cut in 16x20 and other sizes. www.michaelandpaula.com for the details. A beautiful contact printing paper.

I use a vacuum easel to print my 7x17 negatives on 8x20 paper. works like a charm and much more efficient than using a contact printing frame.

Good luck

wow, that grade 2 16x20 paper is expensive:o whats the difference in grade 2 over grade 3?

Steve M Hostetter
13-Apr-2009, 18:07
I noticed that the 12-2"x 17-2" anti newton glass is $137.50 for 2mm thickness

Andrew O'Neill
13-Apr-2009, 20:57
A sheet of 1/4 inch glass is heavy enough to hold the negative flat against the paper. The odd time that I've had issues with Newton Rings was solved with a sheet of frosted mylar (from local art store) between negative and glass.

John Bowen
14-Apr-2009, 07:34
wow, that grade 2 16x20 paper is expensive:o whats the difference in grade 2 over grade 3?


Steve, Lodima is about 10% more expensive than Ilford Gallery, so it isn't out of this world expensive. It is actually less expensive then the Berger papers. The grade 3 has a typo. It is actually 50 sheet boxes for $279, not 100 sheet boxes for $279. If the cost of 16x20 is too high, then print your 11x14 negatives on 11x14 paper :-) THAT will cut the cost in 1/2!

Best,

Michael A. Smith
14-Apr-2009, 09:25
We have had requests for 14 x 17 paper, too, and have listed it as one of our available sizes. Assuming there is sufficient demand, we'll have it in that size.

Michael A. Smith

Steve M Hostetter
14-Apr-2009, 18:49
We have had requests for 14 x 17 paper, too, and have listed it as one of our available sizes. Assuming there is sufficient demand, we'll have it in that size.

Michael A. Smith

Hello Michael, yeah,the 14x17" paper would give me a 3" border .. I'm really excited about this paper,,,the prints on your site are delicious:D can you put me down for a box of 50 grade 2?

Steve M Hostetter
14-Apr-2009, 18:53
A sheet of 1/4 inch glass is heavy enough to hold the negative flat against the paper. The odd time that I've had issues with Newton Rings was solved with a sheet of frosted mylar (from local art store) between negative and glass.

Hello Andrew,, I think I'm gonna try your idea,, maybe do a sandwitch of glass with gaffers tape as a hinge..Seems like I've seen that somewhere

Steve M Hostetter
14-Apr-2009, 18:55
Steve, Lodima is about 10% more expensive than Ilford Gallery, so it isn't out of this world expensive. It is actually less expensive then the Berger papers. The grade 3 has a typo. It is actually 50 sheet boxes for $279, not 100 sheet boxes for $279. If the cost of 16x20 is too high, then print your 11x14 negatives on 11x14 paper :-) THAT will cut the cost in 1/2!

Best,
I see thx John,,, I thought it read funny

Jim Fitzgerald
14-Apr-2009, 20:41
Steve, I have some 11x14 Azo from the 70's that I print my 11x14 negatives on when I do silver printing. I always use my vacuum frame with my 11x14 and 8x20 negatives. i would suggest you find a vacuum frame. They come up on the net from time to time and are very handy to have. i use mine all the time and especially now as I am getting away from silver printing and doing 11x14 and 8x10 and 8x10 carbon transfer. My Azo stash lies in wait but may never be used.

Jim

sanking
14-Apr-2009, 21:19
If you have large negatives for contact printing you may also want to consider coating your own paper and printing with an alternative process. Vandyke and kalliitype are easy to work, relatively inexpensive, and very permanent if you tone the print with gold, palladium or platinum. And then there is palladium and various combinations of platinum and palladium. Price for metal salt and paper can range from less than the cost of silver gelatin papers to more, depending on how you purchase the metal salts, and choice of paper.

But it is fun, not that hard to coat, and you free yourself forever from concerns about loss of factory coated paper.

Sandy King

John Bowen
15-Apr-2009, 11:58
Hello Michael, yeah,the 14x17" paper would give me a 3" border .. I'm really excited about this paper,,,the prints on your site are delicious:D can you put me down for a box of 50 grade 2?

Steve,

I'm sure Michael Smith would be more than happy to take your order, but you will have to visit the site, select the paper you want and either pay via credit card or send a check to place your order. http://store.michaelandpaula.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

Best,

Steve M Hostetter
15-Apr-2009, 16:26
Thank you Jim,Sandy,John.. I'll give Michael a call here soon..

Michael Kadillak
15-Apr-2009, 17:23
Everyone that was recommending using a contact printing frame is spot on.

I purchased a 11x14 contact printing frame from B&S and it could not come close to the visual results obtained from a vacuum frame holding 23# of negative pressure. The contact printing frame simply sucked so I sold it.

Considering the cost of the ULF sheet film and the time and expense to get you to the printing stage, there is no sense in being cheap when it comes to putting this horse in the barn. Get a vacuum frame and move on.

Cheers!

Steve M Hostetter
21-Apr-2009, 08:13
I just ordered 1 - 14x17" Starfire 1/4" polished edges cut glass at a local glass store..

Starfire is the name of the ultra clear glass(not green) , cost: $26.25 + 14.08 polish edges..Takes 2-3 days to get in(so he says).. Now I will proceed to get black construction paper and cut my mats for centering.. I'm thinking I should use the cheaper glass as a backing for flatness..?

Steve M Hostetter
24-Apr-2009, 15:00
You don't need to buy such a frame. Make an 11x14 window inside a piece of 16x20 inch black construction paper. Lay this on top of your printing paper so that the edges all line up. Stick your big negative inside the window, lay down your cover glass (which only needs to be slightly larger than your negative), and Bob's your uncle.
I've done this to centre 4x5 negs on 8x10 paper.
I've used Oriental VC and Ilford MG. Check and see if Lodima is cut to that size...it's a real contact printing paper and really nice. I've got a box of 8x10.

Ok, I got my 14x17" glass and the black construction paper.. Andrew, how did you cut the construction paper to make perfect windows..? stiff patern of somekind?

scott_6029
24-Apr-2009, 16:26
I will also recommend Lodima paper for silver processing. Light source is simple too. See my other post on light sources as a simple bulb will work...I don't use fancy glass either. cheap window glass from ace hardware. A nice contact printing frame is helpful. I don't use a vacuum frame and my prints a SUPER sharp. Check website for images, www.scottpetersphotography.com

As for grade of paper....depends on your negs.....I prefer grade 3.

Best of luck. Scott

scott_6029
24-Apr-2009, 16:31
Oh, another suggestion....in order to save on expense of paper....I cut down larger sizes of paper to smaller test print sheets. when you become more experienced at exposure with smaller test prints, you can really cut down on 'wasted' 'full size' prints. you get better at placing the test print in a 'critical' area of the full sized print to get a good idea on exposure... Also, paper goes further when shooting larger negs...as you tend not to shoot as many 7x17 as you do 8x10 or 4x5 :).

Steve M Hostetter
24-Apr-2009, 16:48
Scott, thank you for the suggestions.. wonderful photography on your website!:)

scott_6029
25-Apr-2009, 12:07
Thanks! Btw, I would use trays for developing instead of the jobo. Safelights and trays are available on ebay. With trays you can see what's going on during the printing/developing process.