Best inexpensive method for drilling lens boards?

[BarryS]

I'm looking for the simplest most cost effective (aka cheapest) way to drill out my wood lens boards. I have a hand drill, a crappy jig saw, and a passable table saw, but beyond that--I just have your standard hand tools. I don't have a router, router table, drill press or any other power tools. I'd like to spend a maximum of $100 on a solution if possible. Is that feasible? I noticed that Dremel has a circular cutting attachment, but wonder if would do the job. A Dremel tool and an attachment would fit my budget, but I don't want to waste money if it's not suitable. Thanks for your help.

[Eric Woodbury]

Things like this work. I have a simpler one than this and if I take it easy, it will cut aluminum. Or you can get a large spade bit and grind it to any diameter.

http://grizzly.com/products/Circle-Cutter-w-Fine-Adjustment/H7538

[ic-racer]

I use something like this which fits in as standard hand-held drill: http://www.thedetailzone.com/HoleDrill.jpg

Since the 'standard' sizes for these bits don't always line up with COPAL 1, COPAL 2 etc, I use the little sanding drum on the Dremel to finish out the exact size as needed. I always try to make my 'cut line' slightly bigger than needed so it is always visible. When working with the Dremel, I find that if I make the 'cut line' exact, then as I grind the material and the line away I can get lost and start to get out of round.

[BarryS]

Eric-- Do you use it with a hand drill? The chuck in my drill wouldn't take that in any case. Is there such a thing as a decent inexpensive drill press?

ic-racer-- I have all sorts of odd sized lenses, so i think I'd need something more adjustable.

[goamules]

I've used both types above, and can add some more info. There is another type similar to the one posted by Eric that has bars coming out of both ends, with the alignment bit in the middle. It fits in my 3/8 drill and you can get them at Home Depot. The hole saw also comes in a kit, with many different sizes. It also fits a standard drill. Between the two, you can cut any size you need, though I just cut wood, no metal. A cheap drill press can be bought at a Harbor Freight, if you have them there.

[Roger Thoms]

[QUOTE=BarryS;456326]Eric-- Do you use it with a hand drill? The chuck in my drill wouldn't take that in any case. Is there such a thing as a decent inexpensive drill press?

You might try Craiglist for a used drill press, I bought mine that way. Best if you can test the drill press under power. Check that the chuck runs true, and also check that the drive pulleys are true.

Roger

[Tim Meisburger]

For the last one I made, I used a 1 1/2" hole saw and a half round mill file. Since you are cutting wood, you can use a hole saw if you have the right size; or a spade bit (but be sure to clamp your board between two pieces of scrap wood or you will not get a clean hole). But, since you want something adjustable, your crappy jig saw should be fine. Just buy a narrow, fine tooth blade, lay out the hole with a compass, drill a smaller hole anywhere inside the circle, stick the jig saw in and cut away. Cut slowly with the edge of the blade in the center of your pencil line. If you have a larger piece of wood its easier to cut the holes before you cut the the board to size, as you have something to clamp or hold on to. Remember, a jig saw cuts on the up stroke, so your finish side will be down.

Cheers, Tim

[Eric Woodbury]

Barry, I have a drill press. There are some inexpensive ones around. Your neighbor or work or high school might have one. The one I have wouldn't work in a hand drill. Sorry about that.

[jb7]

An electric jigsaw will be fine for what you want-
practice first, and remember, they steer from the rear...

[Peter De Smidt]

I have a craftsman drill press that was about $80. It's useful for all sorts of things, including using a fly cutter to drill out lens boards.

That said, I've cut the holes many ways, including using a hand drill to drill out as much as possible, then using a file, circular sander, e.g. a dremel or something similar, to round out the hole. A router with a jig would be another option, as would the jig saw already mentioned.

[Jim Graves]

I use a hand drill and an adjustable hole saw. It will cover Copal 1 to almost Copal 3 ... and since I use a 1/2 round file to smooth everything out after cutting, ... it becomes a Copal 3 upon smoothing. See photo below and description from ACE Hardware site:

http://home.comcast.net/~mary.j.graves/hole saw.jpg

"SKIL-BOSCH" DIAL SAW *
1-1/8" depth cut *
Fits any electric drill *
Cuts 1-1/8" through 2-1/2" holes *
Use on wood, plastic, and composition

[BarryS]

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I've got my eye on craigslist and I also see there are some inexpensive mini-drill presses. In the meantime, I'll see if I can get by with my jigsaw.

[Alan Davenport]

[QUOTE=BarryS;456326]Is there such a thing as a decent inexpensive drill press?

Actually, Harbor Freight's least expensive drill press, at $79, isn't bad. The worst thing that can be said for it, is that the bearings are rather soft. That means, if you do a lot of heavy work, or things it isn't really designed for (such as putting a sanding drum in the chuck, creating lots of side load) you might expect the bearings to develop some slop. But for occasional work that doesn't overwork it, they're just fine.

That plus an adjustable hole saw as suggested, and you're in tall clover.

Be sure you run those hole saws at the absolutely slowest speed available, know where the hell your hands are and wear eye protection at all times. Clamp your work to the drill press table and keep your left hand in your pocket.

[Jeffrey Sipress]

Come on, everyone knows someone who is a woodworker and can bore an accurate hole is a skinny piece of wood?!?

But really a drill press is a good idea. The problem is that spade drills and hole saws don't generally come in the Copal shutter sizes. That's where a boring head comes in handy.

The diameters are:

Copal 0: 34.8mm
Copal 1: 41.8mm
Copal 3: 65.3mm

multiply be .0394 to convert to inches.

And work safely. Big holes are NOT like little holes.

Or, just send them to me.... I'll do them for you.

[Gene McCluney]

I have a number of Hobby Quality power tools purchased at outlets such as Harbor Freight and Ace Hardware, and for the very light work required for wood camera work they are great, and you don't risk wearing them out in your lifetime. A tabletop drill press can do the job just fine and is well under $100. This is a MUCH better solution than trying to use a hole cutting bit in a hand drill. I also cut my lensboard holes on a tabletop scroll saw, depending on exactly what I want to cut.

[Kirk Fry]

One can usually find a hole saw that is close enough for government work..... Clamp your work down to a scrap piece underneath. My dad almost cut his finger off cutting a hole in metal tile on a drill press by not clamping it. K

[John Schneider]

That's where a boring head comes in handy.

Ooh! I love my boring head! $125 on eBay (Criterion) with a bunch of cutters, but it has paid for itself many times over in speed and the lack of out-of-round holes and goobered lensboards

[Jim Michael]

A Craigslist ad might turn up a wood craftsman as Jeffrey suggests. As for drill bits, there are the cheap hole saws like you buy from Home Depot, and there are more accurate woodworking bits like you can buy from a woodworking specialty place, e.g. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=223

I think a Forstner bit might fit the bill and they're not too expensive. An adjustable speed drill would help. You can fabricate a small frame to keep the piece from rotating.

An alternative to the power tools would be a brace & bit, using an adjustable auger bit such as is used for drilling holes for door locks by hand. You might call Highland and ask for advice there, it's a relatively small hardware store in Atlanta.

[Tim Meisburger]

A good quality adjustable auger bit would work, but you will need to clamp scrap wood on both sides of your lensboard to ensure a clean hole. But if you are not using plywood, it might not work, as the tapered screw that pulls the auger bit through the wood is quite thick on an adjustable bit, and might split a thin piece of mahogany, or other hardwood.

I still think you are better off just using your jig saw, unless you are going to start mass producing lens boards.

[anotherJoe]

I second Jim's recommendation for Forstner bits. The sets from China are pretty cheap would probably dull quickly on many hardwoods typically used by woodworkers, but for my Masonite 4"x4" lens boards they work great.

I have a inexpensive ($80 ??) Delta drill press -- a good investment.

[bspeed]

well there is a 35mm bit available at your Lowes/Home Depot. so that's fine for a Copal 0.

[John Kasaian]

A 12 gauge 00 buck from a full choked muzzle will do the trick! :D