Processing Adox/Efke Films help!

[Scott-S]

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to process this film without scratches, blemishes finger prints etc.!! I have two boxes of film Tmax 400 and Adox Ort 25. When I shoot Tmax, I never have any problems, negatives are perfect. When I shoot Adox 25, there is always something marring the negative, a scartch, an unknown aberration, spots, lines etc... I handle the the two films the same way, very carefully.

[Gene McCluney]

You don't say "how" you are processing, however Efke/Adox films are very "soft" emulsions that require the utmost care in handling.

Many people develop large-format films in a Pyro-based developer, such as PMK, and this developer hardens the emulsion as it develops.

If not developing in a "pyro" type developer, you should use a fixer with hardener, and try to control the temperature of your process to as close to 68f as you can.

If tray developing you may find that you can only develop one sheet at a time.

My suggestion, if you are developing standard size, such as 4x5, 5x7 or 8x10, you consider stainless steel film hangers and tank processing. You can find tanks that hold as little as 1 gallon of chemistry, but the most popular are the 3.5 gallon tanks.

Once you load the film into the hangers, the film doesn't touch anything except the processing solutions so there can be no contact scars. If you are getting fingerprints, then load your hangers with gloves.

[Toyon]

I use a Combi-plan, I can't say that scratches have been a problem with the efke/adox films that I have processed. Sprint makes a fixer hardener additive that you may find easiest to adapt to your current process.

[Scott-S]

I use a jobo with an 8x10 print drum. I use Rodinal and Clayton developers. I do use a fixer with a hardener..

[Drew Wiley]

I'll admit I'm afraid to work with Adox 25 sheet film. But there are a couple of things
I've learned from developing roll film. Keep all the solution temps around 20C, including
wash water. The gelatin will soften or even run at much lower temps than Kodak or Ilford films. And keep the stop both very weak, with a plain water rinse between stop and fix. (A strong stop bath also seems to mess up the emulsion. I use just enough indicator stop to turn the solution barely yellow).

[Paul H]

I use a Paterson Orbital for developing 9x12cm and 4x5" Efke 25 / 100 films. I always keep the liquids at 20C. I use water for a stop bath. I don't use a hardener, though some people do prefer to.

I've not had any problems with scratches, other than when I drop the sheets....

[Shen45]

BTZS tubes.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I second BTZS tubes. Trays are okay too, but I only do one sheet at a time. Strange that you are getting scratches with the jobo...I always handle the film by its edges to reduce chance of finger prints...

[Michael Kadillak]

I have absolutely no problems tray developing Efke 25 (which I assume is the same Adox 25) in Pyrocat P/HD of ABC pyro. Developed 12 8x20 negatives yesterday (two batches of 6 negs) and developed 10 8x10's today ) two consecutive runs of 5 negatives at a time with no scratches or imperfections during processing. Nice film and you can't beat the price.

I use a standard strength stop and use the Michael and Paula emulsion side up pull the neg from the bottom technique. Use at least one size tray larger than the format and a water pre-wash for 5 minutes. I also always take a nitrile gloved hand and make sure that the developer is properly mixed before I start developing and use plenty of water. At 2 ounces per 100 Pyrocat it is very inexpensive to use. I mixed up 3 liters last weekend that will last me a very long time.

I purchased a new JOBO CPP2 five years ago and used it maybe 6 times before I attended the M&P workshop and have not looked back since. The JOBO is collecting dust in the corner of the darkroom. Tray developing just works when you pre-wash and take your time. The most inexpensive and proven technique to develop sheet film around. Cheers!