developer strenghts

[robert fallis]

what is the differance, in strenght between paper and film developer? which is the stronger? would it be possible to dilute paper developer to process film? I know you can do it with Arista litho film, could you also do it with a film such as Hp5?
sorry that's alot of questions

bob

[Pfeiffer Duckett]

why?

It depends on the developer, but paper / film developers you buy from kodak, ilford or the like should be kept seperate.

[robert fallis]

for a number of years now I've worked with the ortho film of Arista's and devloped it in a dilute paper developer, but I now want a bit more speed, say 400asa instead of 5asa, I've also began to shake a bit when I hold the camera, ( I'm 70 ) so I need a bit more speed, so I want to use HP5, but don't want to stop using one bottle of developer, so I need an idea of strenght so I can work out development time, I have developed shanghai 100 asa in Tetenal variospeed w for 12 mins at a dilution of 25mm in 500mm, but as a say I just need a bit more speed.

bob

[Jim Noel]

Dilute paper developer can be used to develop film. Generally grain cluster size will be increased, other than that, few problems exist. If you are contact printing your negatives, grain size is usually not a problem.

[Merg Ross]

Dilute paper developer can be used to develop film. Generally grain cluster size will be increased, other than that, few problems exist. If you are contact printing your negatives, grain size is usually not a problem.

A basic MQ paper developer such as D-72 (Dektol) can be diluted and used to develop film. I have done so with 8x10 film, and as Jim suggests, this works well for contact printing. However, I note that you are holding the camera, which may mean that you are making enlargements from your negatives. You could try a diluted D-72 and see if you like the results.

[Merg Ross]

A basic MQ paper developer such as D-72 (Dektol) can be diluted and used to develop film. I have done so with 8x10 film, and as Jim suggests, this works well for contact printing. However, I note that you are holding the camera, which may mean that you are making enlargements from your negatives. You could try a diluted D-72 and see if you like the results.

Better yet, you could use Ansco 130 (Glycin), a popular paper developer, and dilute it 1:5 for film. This will probably result in less grain for enlargements.

[robert fallis]

I tried it with tetenal variospeed w diluted 25mm in 500. for 12 mins. the results are a little grainy but the tonal range seams ok. see attached, more experiment, I feel is called for ,
thanks for your help
bob

[mandoman7]

Without going to my books, I don't believe paper developers have the same restraints and buffering that film developers do, which help to make the strength more consistent through a 10 min. period.

JY

[Mark Sampson]

In general, paper developers are "stronger", since papers develop to completion (which is rarely done with camera films). Thus you can develop film in paper developer, with best results if you dilute beyond paper strength. Film developers are "weaker" than paper devs, in order to more easily control contrast. Try developing paper in straight D-76 (for example) and you'll be disappointed by the weak, muddy non-response.