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Kurt Eichenberger
1-Mar-2009, 14:35
I have owned a Polaroid 110A that I had converted by four designs company many years ago to shoot Polaroid pack film. I also have been shooting Polaroid 4x5 film with a 545 holder in my old speed graphic. With the discontinuation of the 4x5 Polaroid sheet film, I decided to start using the Fuji pack film and the 550 holder.

I did a little research and ran across all the various Polaroid 4x5 conversions such as the Razzel and the Littman, and Noah Schwartz. I also looked in my junk box and found another Polaroid 110A and a Polaroid 900, which has the rather nice range finder. I also found a super speed crown graphic with a very nice Graflock back.

for various reasons, I am interested in putting the door, bellows and lensboard from the 110A on the 900. It looks like the rivets could be removed from the door hinge, and the range finder arm, and things could be re-riveted.

I would like to correspond with someone who is knowledgeable about how to remove and replace the door to these cameras, if it can be done..... Curious to know if the rivets can be reused, or if some kind of bolts would work better.

Thanks for any replies,

Kurt

Gordon Moat
1-Mar-2009, 16:48
You could probably do it with a drill press, and a very good clamping set-up. A better method would be to use a milling machine. After that, I would suggest finding precise pins or stainless bolts to use in place of the rivets. An alternative is swapping out the guide rails and focus track between the cameras, which might take more time, but could turn out a nicer final result. The door catch for closing might cause some alignment issues, though it you can solve the other issues that might be a minor problem.

Ciao!

Gordon Moat Photography (http://www.gordonmoat.com)

Kuzano
1-Mar-2009, 18:04
Having a stack of these.. 3-110A, 2 110B's and 2 or 3 900's, it seems that the 110B is the result you are looking for. The 110B, as I recall has the same rangefinder that's on the 900.

I am thinking about doing more than stripping the camera down, but actually cutting all the metal away from the body down to the basic frame for the door/bellows, and working with a wood back extension allowing for handled on both ends, roughly where the camera ends now. The "extension" of the back would be to achieve the distance to maintain a frame using GG distance to the existing point of the front standard with a 150mm lens. I would use a minimal graflok back, like a Gowland Pocket. That would allow me to shoot readyload/quickload packs which I have a large supply of, or roll backs for 4X5. I'd modify a film holder for ground glass, and notch some film holders to use in a Graflok when I use up the Quickloads I have in the freezer.

What am I missing on this 110 type front standard and 900 type rangefinder on the 110B?

Hmmm.

In addition, the 110B models seem to pop up often. I purchased the three I have in the last approximately year.

nelson_chan
1-Mar-2009, 18:17
people have usually just changed the rangefinders. before Dean made the 900 a bit more popular with his Razzle 900 (which is awesome), people would take the rangefinder off of a 900 and place it onto a 110A body so that it was a rangefinder/viewfinder combo.

Kurt Eichenberger
2-Mar-2009, 05:34
Nelson, I thought about the route that Dean uses with the 900, which is to make a new lensboard and then use a 150 mm lens in lieu of the original 127 Rodenstock. I believe he swaps the lens to the 150 mm because of the limited ability to readjust the infinity focus on the 900.

I then looked at swapping the 900 rangefinder to the 110A I have. This would involve drilling and re-tapping the hole the mirror post fits into, as it is a larger diameter on the 900. I could probably do this, but my drill press is not a good one, and I am concerned about centering the new hole. I'm competent enough using a hand tap, so that part of the operation would go well.

From my measurements, it appears that the mounting points of the doors of the 110a and the 900 are the same. It also appears that the rangefinder arm that connect to the two doors are the same. The latch is different, but I think I can take the latch from the 110 and make it work on the 900.

If I can get to the end of the rivets that hold the door on, (if it is a rivet) I think I could drill the end of the rivet. Seems like the end of the bottom rivet would be under the "skin" of the camera, but I didn't want to do that surgery before consulting with folks who have more experience that I.

I am also thinking that the entire rangefinder arm could be swapped rather than taken apart and reattached, but again, I am not sure how it fits through the camera body, and how to remove it intact.

Maybe I should get a junker 150 or 800 and perform experimental surgery.

Kurt

Kuzano
2-Mar-2009, 05:57
I am also thinking that the entire rangefinder arm could be swapped rather than taken apart and reattached, but again, I am not sure how it fits through the camera body, and how to remove it intact.
Kurt

The rangefinder arm is a straight shaft through the side of the camera, with a cam that slides down and a set screw to position and adjust. Frankly, the problem with the width on the camera impeding the width on the back for 4X5 could be resolved easily. The length of the shaft coming through the side of the camera could easily be lengthened and a spacer could position the whole rangefinder mechanism outward enough to rectify camera width problems. That shaft length is the only component that dictates how far the rangefinder can be moved from the body.

The shaft portion inside the camera ends in a lever that is actuated by the focus rail movement on the door.

Calibration with other than the 127 lens and/or a different distance between the 127 lens and the film plane would be tricky, I suspect.

As I look at the possibilities and the work involved with fitting and calibration, it certainly makes me understand the pricing of these conversions in a finished and properly calibrated state.

As I continue to look at making a conversion, it will be a one-off and only so I can have the one time experience. Otherwise, I get closer and closer to saying.... Screw IT... I'll just buy one.

It would be so much easier to just go with GG viewing and focus, but that would defeat the purpose of the whole conversion in the first place. It does certainly seem to be all about using a transportable, handheld, accurate rangefinder. large format camera. Can you say that without taking a breath?

Kurt Eichenberger
2-Mar-2009, 07:29
Kuzano,

As I understand it, re-setting the infinity focus for the 110A - 110B is pretty trivial if you are using the original lens. After you have installed your new Graflock (or alternate) back, you unfasten the plate that the lens board assembly clips into when the camera is fully open. This is done by taking out two screws, and if you have them, drilling out two rivets. Clip the lens board assembly into this plate, set up the camera on a tripod, and using the ground glass, focus on a far away object by sliding the lensboard assembly back and forth. When you have achieved focus (I would use a loop) make sure the lensboard is square, and mark the position of the plate. you will need to drill two new holes to fasten the plate down.

I also understand that you may need to file the bottom of the crossbar a bit so that it will clear the new plate position when you close or open the camera, although I think if you are careful to lift the crossbar at the right moment you would not need to do this.

Regards,

Kurt

Kurt Eichenberger
2-Mar-2009, 07:31
P.S

Of course the distance scale should be fixed at infinity while doing the above.

Kurt

Kuzano
2-Mar-2009, 11:18
Kuzano,

As I understand it, re-setting the infinity focus for the 110A - 110B is pretty trivial if you are using the original lens. After you have installed your new Graflock (or alternate) back, you unfasten the plate that the lens board assembly clips into when the camera is fully open. This is done by taking out two screws, and if you have them, drilling out two rivets. Clip the lens board assembly into this plate, set up the camera on a tripod, and using the ground glass, focus on a far away object by sliding the lensboard assembly back and forth. When you have achieved focus (I would use a loop) make sure the lensboard is square, and mark the position of the plate. you will need to drill two new holes to fasten the plate down.

I also understand that you may need to file the bottom of the crossbar a bit so that it will clear the new plate position when you close or open the camera, although I think if you are careful to lift the crossbar at the right moment you would not need to do this.

Regards,

Kurt

Copied and pasted into my archive... Thanks.

r3h
6-Mar-2009, 10:48
root around here for some good info. and leads:
http://www.flickr.com/groups/polaroidconversions/

and especially here:
http://option8.110mb.com/polaroid/