Show us your home made camera...

[kooyoungchung]

To Ezzie

Your link was my inspiration.
It looks so elegant.
Only difference is that I'm making 6x12.

I'm trying to fuse two 6x7 Mamiya backs to make a 6x12film cartridge and film rail.
It is my long(really long) term project.

[boxcustom]

96177Here is my 4x5 point and shoot camera.
>

[c.sharpe.7]

I like it. All metal.

Thanks for that: The camera works well but I also bought a Crown Graphic 5" x 4", stripped it down totally (paid £38.00 for it in poor condition), re-covered with new leather; removed the range finder parts and reversed the front standard - plus repaired bellows . . . so now I have a much lighter camera that fits in my Lowepro bag.

I did enjoy the experience of making my camera and through that I learned a lot during my research, about large format photography. Would I do it again? perhaps not - the time & energy was excessive (but interesting) and the original purpose of building my own, was because I couldn't afford the price of a decent camera at the time.

[Grimm_is_new_to_4x5]

Tatarada ! Victor the Afghan 4x5 (Locally called El' Nashdar) , and he's truly best friend forever Lucky Louis (frome France) the tripod ( Vic & Lou ) .
I LF baptised them in some development fluid.
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[Jim Fitzgerald]

Here is a new shot of my 14x17. I rebuilt the base of the camera and made it more solid. On the front is my Hermagis Edioscope #1 19" lens with its own Packard shutter box behind it. It is now a beast!

[Steve Smith]

It's not finished yet but today it started looking like a camera rather than some bits of wood and brass so I thought I would post a picture.

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I think I am going to have to make some less droopy bellows or find a way of stiffening these up a bit.


Steve.

[deranium]

Here is my first LF camera. Fixed focus 4x5 with 150mm f5.6 schneider lens. Probably not the best lens for fixed focus, but it's the only one I have.
DoF is reasonable when stopped down a bit. I am though, generally disappointed by the overall lack of sharpness.
The screen is a piece of sand-blasted glass from my local glass supplier, only cost a couple of pounds, and works better than the piece I ground myself using silicon carbide.
I am using Shanghai film developed with Iford ID-11 for 10 mins at 20C.

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[jon.oman]

Here is my first LF camera. Fixed focus 4x5 with 150mm f5.6 schneider lens. Probably not the best lens for fixed focus, but it's the only one I have.
DoF is reasonable when stopped down a bit. I am though, generally disappointed by the overall lack of sharpness.
The screen is a piece of sand-blasted glass from my local glass supplier, only cost a couple of pounds, and works better than the piece I ground myself using silicon carbide.
I am using Shanghai film developed with Iford ID-11 for 10 mins at 20C.

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Not bad for your first home made camera! My first one was not a success.....

[zuiko90]

Yes, the print does not look sharp. Either focused short of infinity or too close to the film and beyond infinity. I've tried a 90 f6.8 Angulon as a fixed focus on a 4X5 box camera. Tried to shim it right to infinity and let the rest of the distances fall where they may. Very hard to get it just right although I had somewhat sharper results.

[Andrew O'Neill]

My 14x17 Birch I slapped together a couple of years ago. Bellows is very stiff but light light. GG is sanded plexi. Aluminum is from Home Depot. Knobs from Lee Valley. The lens on it is a 355 G Claron. It's a clunker, but it works.

[SMBooth]

Yes, the print does not look sharp. Either focused short of infinity or too close to the film and beyond infinity. I've tried a 90 f6.8 Angulon as a fixed focus on a 4X5 box camera. Tried to shim it right to infinity and let the rest of the distances fall where they may. Very hard to get it just right although I had somewhat sharper results.

You don't want to shim it to infinity. Set it to hyperfocal distance, which by memory of the 90 f6.8 is 2.1 metre, that way at f16 everything from about 1.4 metre to infinity is in relative focus.

[Tin Can]

Nice, pretty much where I want to go.

Can you supply more pics of construction and any details of the spring back?

I assume you made the bellows?

Oh, and holders?

Thanks!


My 14x17 Birch I slapped together a couple of years ago. Bellows is very stiff but light light. GG is sanded plexi. Aluminum is from Home Depot. Knobs from Lee Valley. The lens on it is a 355 G Claron. It's a clunker, but it works.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Hi Randy, I'll have to take some more pics of it. The spring back I took from a very old Seneca 8x10 back that I had purchased off of ebay. Yes, I made the bellows. Pretty crappy job but it works. I've got some material and will attempt another one eventually...I purchased the film holder from Sandy King.

[Tin Can]

Thanks, I thought those springs looked familiar.

I still really like it!




Hi Randy, I'll have to take some more pics of it. The spring back I took from a very old Seneca 8x10 back that I had purchased off of ebay. Yes, I made the bellows. Pretty crappy job but it works. I've got some material and will attempt another one eventually...I purchased the film holder from Sandy King.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Randy, I sent you an email...

[Tin Can]

I sent you a PM, I have gotten nothing.


Randy, I sent you an email...

[andreios]

Andrew, that is a good looking - simple yet functional camera - I like it! It gives me some inspiration - though I think more in lines of 7x17... Yet first I have to get a holder...

[ShannonG]

These are pin holes but non the less ,,cameras,all hold 4X5 film and all see differently105041.

[timjones]

My effort from Jon Grepstad plans (http://home.online.no/~gjon/jgcam.htm).

Very happy with the result

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Regards

Tim Jones

[Colin Graham]

A 5x7 I made last spring. Sort of a fugly step-child of Gandolfi and Lotus. There's a rambling 2-part dairy of the project here- http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1226


http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5518/11607198085_0711f16f6f.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5482/11607703213_7fde53c369.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3784/11607634985_c4029b09e3.jpg

There's a few other project dairies on my site; I liked using the camera so much I made new holders (http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1620) for it and a new tripod (http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1513) as well.

[vinny]

Damn Colin, you blow my mind every time. Nice work. I'll eventually post my 8x10 once I paint it but it's not gonna be easy following work like this.

[Wolfgang AM]

Wow. Really nice work! You must have a fully equipped workshop available for that.

[Andrew Plume]

absolutely brilliant Colin

regards

andrew

[Colin Graham]

Thanks guys!

Wolfgang- yeah I used to be a carpenter so I have a pretty decent garage shop. At metalworking I'm still a complete hack, but I try to get a little better at it with each project. I'm lucky to still have all of my fingers with some of the crap I pulled on this one.

[Wolfgang AM]

Well Colin I think you are not so bad in matal working either!

If you want to look at my diy camera: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?45775-Show-us-your-home-made-camera&p=797525#post797525

By the way, did you produce all those knobs yourself also?

[Colin Graham]

Nice work!

I got the knobs from McMaster Carr and Reid Supply. No lathe yet. I usually get blanks if I can because the stock knobs never seem to be bored or threaded for the shaft sizes I need. But there are thread-repair kits or inserts that help reduce them to the necessary sizes if I can't get blanks.

[Wolfgang AM]

And your rack (of the rack and pinion drive), is it made of brass or plastic? Mine is plastic and the pinion is metal and I always wonder how long this combination will last, because there is quite a load on it when you tilt the camera on the tripod.

[pound]

[QUOTE=Colin Graham;1092981]A 5x7 I made last spring. Sort of a fugly step-child of Gandolfi and Lotus. There's a rambling 2-part dairy of the project here- http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1226


wow, it sure look professionally made. Thanks for documenting the process in yr blog.

[sepiareverb]

There's a few other project dairies on my site; I liked using the camera so much I made new holders (http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1620) for it and a new tripod (http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1513) as well.

Fascinating reading, and magnificent work. Both in the shop and under the dark cloth.

[Colin Graham]

Thanks for the kind words.

Robert-wow, very arresting and unusually beautiful work on your site. I really enjoyed spending time there this morning. Great sequences. Thanks for the inspiration.

[Steve Smith]

A 5x7 I made last spring. Sort of a fugly step-child of Gandolfi and Lotus. There's a rambling 2-part dairy of the project here- http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1226

There is some superb stuff there... and I have only looked at a small fraction of it so far (and I think you mean diary instead of dairy!).


Steve.

[Sal Santamaura]

...I think you mean diary instead of dairy...With work like that, he can call it "feedlot" for all I care. :D:D:D

[VPooler]

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This is my little build, not exactly large format but does a great job. If you want more about details click here (https://www.flickr.com/photos/moribundworld/8962444804/) and hover around for descriptions.
Story of the making and results can be found here (https://www.flickr.com/photos/moribundworld/sets/72157633902894015/with/8962444804/) :)
Built it this summer, it doesn't get much action but it is fun to use, although it catches a lot of attention when I take it outside and that makes shooting hard.

[Roger Thoms]

Colin, looks fantastic, as do the holders and the tripod. I just wanted to say that I thoroughly enjoyed your write ups on these projects. You did a great job of documenting them. Also a a carpenter by trade I can really appreciate the craftsmanship and precision work that went into these projects. I also think your being a little modest about your metal working abilities.

Roger


A 5x7 I made last spring. Sort of a fugly step-child of Gandolfi and Lotus. There's a rambling 2-part dairy of the project here- http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1226


http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5518/11607198085_0711f16f6f.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5482/11607703213_7fde53c369.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3784/11607634985_c4029b09e3.jpg

There's a few other project dairies on my site; I liked using the camera so much I made new holders (http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1620) for it and a new tripod (http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1513) as well.

[jb7]

Another inspirational camera Colin, beautifully executed and finished-
and that perfectly matched stack of holders is very impressive-

Nice camera too vpooler...

[thorley]

I started working on an 11x14 camera with the hope to create my own unique look of image. It has been a very healthy mental exercise with lots of drawing and measuring and maths. It's hard to know when to stop making it harder, I mean I do want to make photography, but this project keeps me very busy making a camera. I have not yet figured out how the focus track is going to work, I need a range of 60cm -100cm for my prefered lens. I would also like this camera to be portable, practical, functional, and not look like a heap of trash.
Video embedded hopefully

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_wm7W55LNs

[Lachlan 717]

Thorley,

I'm building a 7x17" at the moment. I can possibly help you with sourcing parts in Melbourne. PM me if you want to have a chat.

[Colin Graham]

And your rack (of the rack and pinion drive), is it made of brass or plastic? Mine is plastic and the pinion is metal and I always wonder how long this combination will last, because there is quite a load on it when you tilt the camera on the tripod.

Sorry Wolfgang, I missed this question earlier. The gears are all brass, 20° angle, 48 pitch, 1/8" face widths- http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-gears/=q4dc4x. I wanted to try Delrin or stainless steel gears, but they proved to be much more difficult to find in the sizes I needed (or were much more expensive). Are yours nylon or Delrin? I've wondered how durable they are too. The Delrin is supposed to be self-lubricating, which could be nice.

Thanks again for the nice comments, much appreciated!

[Steve Smith]

Another good source for pinion gears is model car racing sites.

Like these: http://www.rchobbyestore.co.uk/search/brass-pinion

I am using these with Delrin rack gears I make myself with the CNC router at work.


Steve.

[Wolfgang AM]

My Rack is made of Polyacetal it is just 4x4mm in diameter http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/237892/Polyacetal-Zahnstange250-mm-x-4-mm-x-4-mm?ref=list because of room restraint - I had to contruct some kind of clutch for rear swing. So the combination it isn't even nylon and I have a metal gear too with just 0.5 module, which is quite delicate. Anyway it has lasted till now, but on the other hand I don't use my 8x10 camera on a daily base ;-) Well yes and I never lubricated the gears. I think if my rack fails it is not hard to replace.

[Kevin J. Kolosky]

I started working on an 11x14 camera with the hope to create my own unique look of image. It has been a very healthy mental exercise with lots of drawing and measuring and maths. It's hard to know when to stop making it harder, I mean I do want to make photography, but this project keeps me very busy making a camera. I have not yet figured out how the focus track is going to work, I need a range of 60cm -100cm for my prefered lens. I would also like this camera to be portable, practical, functional, and not look like a heap of trash.
Video embedded hopefully

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_wm7W55LNs

how is that project coming along? any new photos of your progress. seems to me that you would not need the focus track to be geared the entire length of the camera. you can just move the standards by hand until they get close to where you need to be and then use a much shorter focus track to get the standard in focus. would require a bit more engineering, but might save a lot of headache.

[Kuzano]

Another Take On the Polaroid Pathfinder. Minimalist, using only the simplest parts of the camera. Lens plane, bellows, folding struts, focus knob and rails. CUT AWAY all the rest, and throw it away.

Simple ground glass viewing. Idea's envisioned, 150mm lens on the front... Geronar or such. design a detachable back with simple graflock or DDS capability. NO rangefinder, No attempt at hand holding.

(Film prices begin to implicate hand holding as the ultimate Waste of film these days in my personal opinion) What makes sense to me is a tripod and ground glass. Cut costs to the bone without calibrating and monkeying around with the rangefinder. Get out and Shoot ASAP!

This portion of the camera, disassembly, and two metal band saw cuts. Weighs in at 1 pound 5 ounces as you see it.

Place the film plane at 150mm from the lens (result of back extension used in back assembly, to be made), plus or minus the focus distance allowable on the Polaroid knob/rails capacity. The extension from the regular film plane back gets you the coverage on the full 4X5 inch film frame. Tested angles on this.

Plan to use this, or my Travelwide to expose the 160 envelopes of Quick/Easy loads in the freezer. DDS in a pinch after those are gone. This started out before the Travelwide came to be and took a back seat for a while. However, I would now like to finish this. So many Polaroid Pathfinders seeking a $200 solution.....So little time. This appeals to me as the cheapest and best use of all those polaroid pathfinders, then on to the Automatic Polaroids, as Chamonix did with the Sabre. ???? eh? wot??

Thinking milled hardwood block or a composite CNC plan on the detachable back extension. Now of course... 3D printing perhaps?

[koh303]

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Second attempt at a pack film folder with real lens instead of the funky plastic lens it came with.
The Ysarex is super sharp and the rangefinder is now spot on (was not so with the ektar 127mm i tried before).

Next step is to the run the cable release through the body and locate it instead of the red button.

[BetterSense]

In contrast to the nice woodworking on display here, I made a 6x7 field camera made mosty from birch plywood from the hobby store and spraypainted, all made in my apartment with my model airplane tools. It uses a rotating back from an RB67 that I bought on ebay. The moving bits are linear sliders I got as free samples. It has full front movements and rear swing. Uses 90, 127 and 150mm lenses I had anyway, and folds completely with any of them. The bellows was the hard part. The design would accomodate up to 250mm of bellows, if I could find thin fabric. I had to use thick blackout fabric and cut almost 100mm off the bellows, so now it will only focus the 150 down to 20 feet, which is still not too bad. Best of all, it weighs less than a single 90mm lens from my RB67, even with a lens and ground-glass installed.

[LF_rookie_to_be]

A few shots from the building process of a sliding box camera based around 8x10" Fidelity holders, Sinar boards, 121/8 Super-Angulon and 150/8 Ultragon/Repromaster. Also have a rare opportunity to borrow a 155/6.8 Grandagon-N, but still looking for a proper extended Sinar board.

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[LF_rookie_to_be]

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[Boscoe]

I built this recently. I like it. The pictures are good too I think!

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[LF_rookie_to_be]

The back - at least part of it - installed. GG frame with a fresnel from an overhead projector, lightly sanded on the flat side, is next. I thought about constructing a spring back around this. What type of spring to use? Piano wire? Small tension springs, put on the sides of the camera?

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[LF_rookie_to_be]

Unidirectional carbon fiber strips?

[wilper]

I want to get into ULF photography, but decided to start small. So over a weekend I built a prototype of my planned 14x11 camera in 5x7.

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I didn't have any film holders with dark slides in 5x7, nor will I get any for 14x11 initially. Instead there's a dark compartment inside the camera, and by reaching in through the dark bag attached to the top of the box it is possible to take sheets from the compartment and fasten them to the holder for exposure.

The lens is a simple achromat from SurplusShed stopped down to about f50 so I can time exposures by covering/uncovering it with my hand. The camera body is a wooden crate, the rest is cardboard and tape. Total cost for the parts was less than €25.

The sheets are curved inside the camera to get a curved film plane to approximate that of the achromat. The film plane can in itself be moved between two different positions, one that gives images that are sharp from about 5m and to infinity, and one that gives reasonable sharpness at 2-4 meters for portraiture.

Images are composed by placing the camera in front of the subject and hoping for the best.

I posted some samples on my blog, http://photofying.wordpress.com/2014/08/07/building-a-e25-large-format-camera/

[Dan Fromm]

Its always a pleasure to see cheap and cheerful getting good results.

[Sart_S]

My new Homemade Wide-camera 4x5,Lens - Super-Angulon 65mm/8, Wood - The American walnut.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-80NVJHjYCmA/VDTjUHGq0jI/AAAAAAAACNo/nlKva6V6hbk/w934-h682-no/4_5_handy_new.jpg

[gattopardo]

A 5x7 I made last spring. Sort of a fugly step-child of Gandolfi and Lotus. There's a rambling 2-part dairy of the project here- http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1226

There's a few other project dairies on my site; I liked using the camera so much I made new holders (http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1620) for it and a new tripod (http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=1513) as well.

Hi Colin,

unfortunately I can't reach your site... but really would like to see your works...

The browser give me this error message:
'Forbidden
You don't have permission to access / on this server.'

Hope to see your camera!

Thank you
Bye

[Nana Sousa Dias]

My new Homemade Wide-camera 4x5,Lens - Super-Angulon 65mm/8, Wood - The American walnut.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-80NVJHjYCmA/VDTjUHGq0jI/AAAAAAAACNo/nlKva6V6hbk/w934-h682-no/4_5_handy_new.jpg

Beautiful...

[Nana Sousa Dias]

The photos of my homemade camera disappeared, so, here they are, again....

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag448/nanasousadias/2_zps35677ffa.jpg

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag448/nanasousadias/1_zps89159129.jpg

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag448/nanasousadias/4_zps986b4926.jpg

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag448/nanasousadias/6_zps2b7652f8.jpg

[Sart_S]

Thank you Nana!I've seen before your beautiful camera! ;)

[asmariglia]

Here my 8x10 attempt ,
hope to finish it soon! =)

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[Michael Roberts]

Looks great! Can you show a close up of the back springs? Also, what are you using for the female end of the front standard screws?

[asmariglia]

Looks great! Can you show a close up of the back springs? Also, what are you using for the female end of the front standard screws?
Hi Michael, i used just 1/4 knobs bought on ebay and a neoprene spacing system i did and for the back spring a normal system with hacksaw blades and normals extension springs
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They worked fine for me, the tension is adequate to hold the film holder in place =)

[StoneNYC]

Here my 8x10 attempt ,
hope to finish it soon! =)

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I love the bird.

Also, where did you get the rear tilt adjustment bars? Everything else I can totally see modifying from some piece of metal, but that piece looks machine, how much did it cost etc.? I've been wondering if I could purchase those individual parts that seem specialized from someone like Chamonix for a reasonable price and designing my own 11 x 14 or 14 x 17 camera.

[asmariglia]

hi stone, well for the adjustment bars i used different pieces of aluminium bars 3€ 5$ each that you can find in some hardware store, cut and drilled all with a pillar drill and joined together in dimpled hole with m6 screws and then all was painted in black with an alu spray

[StoneNYC]

hi stone, well for the adjustment bars i used different pieces of aluminium bars 3€ 5$ each that you can find in some hardware store, cut and drilled all with a pillar drill and joined together in dimpled hole with m6 screws and then all was painted in black with an alu spray

Thank you, nice custom job.

[Nimrod]

medium format
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[Tin Can]

medium format
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WOW! Tell us a story.

Please.

[Nimrod]

randy moe: uff, my english is horrible. well, i made it a 1 1/4 year, wood is jatoba with tung oil + safflower oil, metal is stainless steel (sheet, knobs, focusing shaft, fasteners), titanium (sheet), brass (rack, pinion, tripod socket). weight with wide angle bag is 1338 grams

[Michael Cienfuegos]

Nice… :)

m

[Tin Can]

randy moe: uff, my english is horrible. well, i made it a 1 1/4 year, wood is jatoba with tung oil + safflower oil, metal is stainless steel (sheet, knobs, focusing shaft, fasteners), titanium (sheet), brass (rack, pinion, tripod socket). weight with wide angle bag is 1338 grams

Your english is fine. A very beautiful camera.

Thanks for posting!

[Wolfgang AM]

Great work!!! You must have a good workshop equipment too.
Did you make the bellows also?

[Nimrod]

thanks guys
wolfgang am: nothing special. vice, hand saw, files, "chisels", drill, bench grinder, little lathe and sandpapers ...it's probably all. yes, i made bellows too.
131238 more photos on my flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/83800925@N08/sets/72157638511194925/)

[Fr. Mark]

I decided I had to have a better 8x10 camera. The telescoping box approach leaked light and had no movements.
Design criteria: use up wood already salvaged, use hardware on hand, must have all movements, enough bellows for 1:1 or bigger with an 18" f 3.6 projector lens, square bellows to simplify bellows construction. Ground glass slides out in a frame and film holders go in.

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Yes, the tripod is made from modified crutches found at a thrift store. I am still toying with ways to keep the legs from splaying out other than the rope below, something that'd allow it to be picked up an moved with the legs staying in configuration. Bellows extend 4 feet. Bellows sag is an issue at most extensions. I figure to prop a cardboard box or something under them.

there's a cardboard collar for the front of the lens that allows f8-90 with cardboard waterhouse stops. No shutter.

Camera is not a light weight, it is 30 pounds more/less, but 8 of that is the lens. I've made a front adapter board to take 6" lens boards, and now that I've gotten into the Sinar/Horsman system will probably make another for 5.5" lens boards. and figure out how to add the sinar shutter to this.

The sad thing is, it is so big and heavy it is hard to keep everything lined up, adjusted, and then change things a little w/o everything wanting to change. I made full size plans for parts of it, and it really failed to convey just how enormous this was going to be in 3D.

I have this feeling it may not get a lot of use and that I may someday, if I still feel the call of 8x10, just add parts to the Sinar P kit.

I've spent a lot of time the last year or so mashing together various photo things and done precious little in the way of final prints that make me happy. I'm thinking of using my very limited art time to do more shooting & printing and less building of equipment. And, maybe more painting, too. My wife prefers I spend less time in the basement so it may be that I adopt a more hybrid workflow i.e. film to scan to inkjet print to cyanotype or just to final print on watercolor paper. Someday this camera may spend more of its life in the darkroom as a LF enlarger, but time will tell. Even the Sinar would be better adapted for that...

As for tools: Radial arm saw with carbide tipped multi-purpose blade for construction, and a dado set. Planes, chisels, electric drill/screwdriver, files, hack saw (for shaping aluminum parts), a guillotine cutter for making the bellows ribs, bellows are blackout cloth for backing curtains. Wood: marine grade plywood left over from my son's boat project last summer, maple and walnut, ??Birch?? crutches for tripod. Aluminum channels, epoxy, various hardware store hardware.

If I had to do it again, I'm not sure I would. Definitely, I'd buy more materials to get what I really want for lower weight, easier adjustment, and higher rigidity and less hand fitting. Probably most of it would be aluminum square tubing. I like the look of walnut, but I'm done breathing walnut dust. I prefer to sand maple. I'd not design around a huge projector lens or square bellows that before folding were 54" long. And, I might either have gone directly to 14x17 (Xray comes that big) or 5x7. 5x7 would be a lot easier to store, find lenses for develop, scan, get film for etc. Or, I might've just bought a 100 y.o. limited mvt camera with beautiful joinery and brass work perhaps with scroungy bellows and replaced the bellows and shimmed the ground glass frame to fit modern holders Or some set of holders I had. I don't have a lot of money in this, probably less than $75, but there are a lot of hours for something with a lot of compromises. Well, many times in my past I've noticed that building something from scratch takes a few tries to get it right.

[StoneNYC]

I decided I had to have a better 8x10 camera. The telescoping box approach leaked light and had no movements.
Design criteria: use up wood already salvaged, use hardware on hand, must have all movements, enough bellows for 1:1 or bigger with an 18" f 3.6 projector lens, square bellows to simplify bellows construction. Ground glass slides out in a frame and film holders go in.

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Yes, the tripod is made from modified crutches found at a thrift store. I am still toying with ways to keep the legs from splaying out other than the rope below, something that'd allow it to be picked up an moved with the legs staying in configuration. Bellows extend 4 feet. Bellows sag is an issue at most extensions. I figure to prop a cardboard box or something under them.

there's a cardboard collar for the front of the lens that allows f8-90 with cardboard waterhouse stops. No shutter.

Camera is not a light weight, it is 30 pounds more/less, but 8 of that is the lens. I've made a front adapter board to take 6" lens boards, and now that I've gotten into the Sinar/Horsman system will probably make another for 5.5" lens boards. and figure out how to add the sinar shutter to this.

The sad thing is, it is so big and heavy it is hard to keep everything lined up, adjusted, and then change things a little w/o everything wanting to change. I made full size plans for parts of it, and it really failed to convey just how enormous this was going to be in 3D.

I have this feeling it may not get a lot of use and that I may someday, if I still feel the call of 8x10, just add parts to the Sinar P kit.

I've spent a lot of time the last year or so mashing together various photo things and done precious little in the way of final prints that make me happy. I'm thinking of using my very limited art time to do more shooting & printing and less building of equipment. And, maybe more painting, too. My wife prefers I spend less time in the basement so it may be that I adopt a more hybrid workflow i.e. film to scan to inkjet print to cyanotype or just to final print on watercolor paper. Someday this camera may spend more of its life in the darkroom as a LF enlarger, but time will tell. Even the Sinar would be better adapted for that...

As for tools: Radial arm saw with carbide tipped multi-purpose blade for construction, and a dado set. Planes, chisels, electric drill/screwdriver, files, hack saw (for shaping aluminum parts), a guillotine cutter for making the bellows ribs, bellows are blackout cloth for backing curtains. Wood: marine grade plywood left over from my son's boat project last summer, maple and walnut, ??Birch?? crutches for tripod. Aluminum channels, epoxy, various hardware store hardware.

If I had to do it again, I'm not sure I would. Definitely, I'd buy more materials to get what I really want for lower weight, easier adjustment, and higher rigidity and less hand fitting. Probably most of it would be aluminum square tubing. I like the look of walnut, but I'm done breathing walnut dust. I prefer to sand maple. I'd not design around a huge projector lens or square bellows that before folding were 54" long. And, I might either have gone directly to 14x17 (Xray comes that big) or 5x7. 5x7 would be a lot easier to store, find lenses for develop, scan, get film for etc. Or, I might've just bought a 100 y.o. limited mvt camera with beautiful joinery and brass work perhaps with scroungy bellows and replaced the bellows and shimmed the ground glass frame to fit modern holders Or some set of holders I had. I don't have a lot of money in this, probably less than $75, but there are a lot of hours for something with a lot of compromises. Well, many times in my past I've noticed that building something from scratch takes a few tries to get it right.

Wow! My design for a 14x17 was going to be similar to this, but I never thought of crutches! And I absolutely LOVE the wooden tightening knobs, NICE touch!

[Fr. Mark]

There are more rigid things than crutches. That was to get a tripod under a much lighter 1/2 plate camera originally.

The wood knobs were made with a hole saw and a chisel. Sanding was done by putting them on a bolt that has a flat head/conical head and finger tightening a nut and chucking it in a drill in a vise and running the drill backwards so it all stays right.

[Tin Can]

There are more rigid things than crutches. That was to get a tripod under a much lighter 1/2 plate camera originally.

The wood knobs were made with a hole saw and a chisel. Sanding was done by putting them on a bolt that has a flat head/conical head and finger tightening a nut and chucking it in a drill in a vise and running the drill backwards so it all stays right.

Crutches are a great idea, heck they hold up heavy people all the time.

iLikey :)

[Jim Fitzgerald]

I decided to take the 11 x 14 to Bodie last weekend and managed to shoot 6 images. On my first set up I had a problem so I decided to redo the camera and up grade it a bit. I'm rebuilding the rails as I felt they were to thin, redoing the front standard and how the back attaches. The camera was designed after my Zone VI 4 x 5 that I had at the time. I'll post the after images after I'm done. Sorry for the small I phone picture.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

So I finished to redo of my 11 x 14. I originally designed it after my Zone VI 4 x 5 I had several years ago. Now that I have a proper shop I rebuilt the extension arms and made them thicker. The joints were cut with my router and I machined some new brass and made it beefier as well. I redesigned the front tilt and added some spring washers in the right places and generally tightened everything up. I used some of my Peruvian Walnut for the new arms and front standard. All in all the camera is a lot more sturdy. The Spencer Portland is backed by a built in Packard shutter. All of the lenses that I use for this system are barrel lenses and clear the Packard. Time to use it again!

[Michael Roberts]

Looks great Jim!

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Michael, thanks. I'm so happy I put in the time to redo the weak areas of the camera. It will be a joy to use again along with the others I've built.

[pdh]

Mine hasn't been a joy to use, but I'll be retiring her/him/it soon ...

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5536/14440473938_c7fe7c779f.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/22065841@N05/14440473938/)

10x8 Sliding Box camera (foamcore), Agfa Repromaster 213mm f/9¼ lens, home made ground glass, eBay fresnel

[JoeV]

Instant Box Camera, combination paper negative portrait camera and portable darkroom.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7597/16971739272_2baf9a44b6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rRJANm)IBC001a (https://flic.kr/p/rRJANm) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8690/16920392132_cc0ea3e171_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rMcr5Q)P1090943a (https://flic.kr/p/rMcr5Q) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7637/16712273970_2073fd9fdc_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rsNLNE)P1090935a (https://flic.kr/p/rsNLNE) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8695/16712274870_3e1b52c548_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rsNM5b)P1090934a (https://flic.kr/p/rsNM5b) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

(cont.)

[JoeV]

Atop the camera is a viewing port, with manual shutter knob on the left, and a switch for a red LED, permitting development by inspection. The developer tray is directly under this viewing port. The focus rod sticks out the back of the camera. It controls the position of the film holder/view screen frame, that rides internally on a set of metal rods:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8684/16899696735_8f4311680f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rKnn4D)P1090939a (https://flic.kr/p/rKnn4D) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

A view looking into the rear door at a scene focused on the view screen:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7595/16898464082_c4f2ed8333_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rKg3D1)P1090937a (https://flic.kr/p/rKg3D1) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

The printing easel with a paper negative, mounted in front of the lens:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8734/17056794592_135ec71875_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rZfwMo)P1100013a (https://flic.kr/p/rZfwMo) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

Self-Portrait, printed in-camera using the printing easel in front of the lens, onto Ilford MG RC WT Luster paper, filtered at grade 3.5:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5443/17016575538_c1bb3060d3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rVGp4q)Joe001a (https://flic.kr/p/rVGp4q) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

[JoeV]

The entire kit, comprised of camera, tripod, chemicals, water, paper, etc, is carried in a wheeled dolly built for transporting office supplies.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8709/16595178784_ac18c0b5b5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rhsCu9)P1100064a (https://flic.kr/p/rhsCu9) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

And the camera setup on the tripod, with the lower shelf in place. I use one container for rinse aid, the other for a rinse bath.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7617/17031450739_b69e583eda_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rX1CWp)P1100062b (https://flic.kr/p/rX1CWp) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

[Tin Can]

WOW Joe!

Really nice design, execution and usage.

Hit the street!

Thanks for posting!

[Tin Can]

Mine hasn't been a joy to use, but I'll be retiring her/him/it soon ...

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5536/14440473938_c7fe7c779f.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/22065841@N05/14440473938/)

10x8 Sliding Box camera (foamcore), Agfa Repromaster 213mm f/9¼ lens, home made ground glass, eBay fresnel

I like this too. I chickened out and did not make my 14x17 like this. :(

Is black foamcore 100% opaque in full Sun?

[pdh]

Seems to be, but it wafts about in the breeze a bit ...

[Tin Can]

Seems to be, but it wafts about in the breeze a bit ...

Maybe you need lead lining...:)

[StoneNYC]

Atop the camera is a viewing port, with manual shutter knob on the left, and a switch for a red LED, permitting development by inspection. The developer tray is directly under this viewing port. The focus rod sticks out the back of the camera. It controls the position of the film holder/view screen frame, that rides internally on a set of metal rods:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8684/16899696735_8f4311680f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rKnn4D)P1090939a (https://flic.kr/p/rKnn4D) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

A view looking into the rear door at a scene focused on the view screen:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7595/16898464082_c4f2ed8333_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rKg3D1)P1090937a (https://flic.kr/p/rKg3D1) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

The printing easel with a paper negative, mounted in front of the lens:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8734/17056794592_135ec71875_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rZfwMo)P1100013a (https://flic.kr/p/rZfwMo) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

Self-Portrait, printed in-camera using the printing easel in front of the lens, onto Ilford MG RC WT Luster paper, filtered at grade 3.5:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5443/17016575538_c1bb3060d3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rVGp4q)Joe001a (https://flic.kr/p/rVGp4q) by jvcabacus (https://www.flickr.com/people/31285363@N07/), on Flickr

This is almost too ridiculous to believe but yet so awesome! Haha

[pdh]

Maybe you need lead lining...:)

Yep, that'd also stop those pesky cosmic rays that ruin my exquisite compositions ... I also have 5x4 built on the same principles, which uses either a Repromaster 150/9 or a nice old brass Wray RR 5½" f/5.6

[Tin Can]

Yep, that'd also stop those pesky cosmic rays that ruin my exquisite compositions ... I also have 5x4 built on the same principles, which uses either a Repromaster 150/9 or a nice old brass Wray RR 5½" f/5.6

I think we need lead brick for those Ol' Kozmic Blues...

[brandon allen]

My newly completed 4x5 (not to be confused with a 5x4... Totally different animal :))
132983132985132986

[Jim Fitzgerald]

My newly completed 4x5 (not to be confused with a 5x4... Totally different animal :))
132983132985132986

Brandon beautiful work! What did you use for the extension? What type of wood? It looks great! Congrat's!

[Tin Can]

Very cool, looks like drawer slides to me

Great work!

[Steve Smith]

My newly completed 4x5 (not to be confused with a 5x4... Totally different animal :))

That is nice. I can't wait to see the 5x4 version!


Steve.

[Michael Roberts]

Instant Box Camera, combination paper negative portrait camera and portable darkroom.



Joe, this is the coolest thingI've seen in quite a while. Congrats on realizing this vision. Fantastic!

[brandon allen]

Brandon beautiful work! What did you use for the extension? What type of wood? It looks great! Congrat's!

I built it from black walnut.

Yes, the front standard rides on drawer slides. They arent ultra-lightweight, but work very nicely - nice smooth operation and very sturdy (rated at something like 100lbs).

[brandon allen]

That is nice. I can't wait to see the 5x4 version!

Steve,

Not sure if the 5x4 version will ever see the light of day - lots of complex math converting ASA's to ISO's and whatnot... I get a headache just thinking about it!

Brandon

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Ah, Black Walnut. My favorite.

[brandon allen]

My newly completed 4x5 (not to be confused with a 5x4... Totally different animal :))
132983132985132986

Since this IS a thread about building LF cameras, I'll bore you with some details:

Focused with 3/8" 10TPI reverse-thread acme screw.

Front standard can be attached in three different positions to accommodate lenses from 90mm (possibly even 75mm) to 400mm. Were I to do another I wouldn't bother making it able to fit such long lenses and make it easier to use with the wides I'll probably use 90% of the time.

As mentioned, the front standard moves on 8" triple extension drawer slides which I modified slightly to allow them to be trimmed a bit shorter without sacrificing any extension.

The rear standard can slide forward about 1 1/2" and rearward about 6" on aluminum extrusions. They are actually the T-slot inserts for 1/4-20 bolts intended to be inletted into worktops or jigs. I just flipped them over. They tighten with knobs on the bottom of the camera (not visible in these pictures).

Other metal parts are aluminum or brass. I machined everything myself on a mini mill and mini lathe accquired during the build. I did a fair amount of soldering bits together (ground glass retaining springs, spring shackles, etc,) The springs for the back were flat spring stock ordered from Mcmaster-Carr. I cut them to length, annealed the sections where the bends would go then made the bends. I think these turned out a lot nicer than hacksaw blades do. (No offense meant to anyone there).

All the aluminum parts I made were anodized. All the brass parts were nickel plated - both new skills I accquired as I went.

The spring shackles turned out to be the fiddly-est part of the whole build. I probably made ten duds before I finally got the process right.

I had the glass cut at a local glass shop and ground it myself with silicone carbide grit. I may get some 600 or 800 grit and go even a bit finer than the 400 I used. I dressed the edges on my diamond sharpening stones - worked beautifully!

Wood is black walnut finished with three coats of polyurethane.

4x4" lens boards of my own design (meaning that they don't match any commercial lens boards I know of).

Bellows were made for me by Rudy in China.

In addition to standard film holders, it will fit a Polaroid 645 or 545. A Calumet 120 holder will fit, but not awfully well.

This project consumed about 9 months of fairly consistent work. A lot of that was spent in trial and error repetition. I could do another in a couple of months probably.

I'm planning to just use this camera for six months or so, then start in on a 5x7 version incorporating whatever improvements I discover this design needs. So far it doesn't seem to need much!

[Jac@stafford.net]

Beautiful and brilliant in every respect. I would say it is a masterpiece but you might even find a way to one-up yourself.

You made my day. More pictures would be great.

[Tin Can]

Thanks for the details, we all appreciate them.

Very well done!

[brandon allen]

Thanks very much!

I started taking photos fairly early on, but not at the very beginning.
Look here: https://flickr.com/photos/17195828@N04/sets/72157646762091934

B

[Tin Can]

Even better, even electroplating!

[Andrew Plume]

congratulations, terrific indeed

rgds
andrew

[vinny]

My newly completed 4x5 (not to be confused with a 5x4... Totally different animal :))
132983132985132986

Nice work. The rear standard extensions look a lot like off the shelf T track?
Before you build your 5x7, check out my website. I built and 8x10 complete and recently added a 4x10 back. I used 12" stainless (.039) feeler gauges from Mcmaster for my springs which require no annealing, just bending in a vise and pliers.

[DrTang]

Instant Box Camera, combination paper negative portrait camera and portable darkroom.




Whelp...there's one project I can now forget..I been thinking of building one ever since I read about them years ago..

but..where yours is like fine cabinetry ...mine would be like a homeless persons trunk all slapped together

I'll just sit this one out... you did such a fine job

[brandon allen]

Nice work. The rear standard extensions look a lot like off the shelf T track?
Before you build your 5x7, check out my website. I built and 8x10 complete and recently added a 4x10 back. I used 12" stainless (.039) feeler gauges from Mcmaster for my springs which require no annealing, just bending in a vise and pliers.

Yes, that is T track. It works and matches the other aluminum. I wish I had designed them for more forward movement rather than rearward. Live and learn.

Yes, the stainless feeler gauges are yet another step improved! Thanks.

I studied your site quite a bit while building, just to see how somebody else did things. I even asked you a few questions about milling machines...

The 4x10 is an attractive option to be sure. I tend to lean toward either wide or tall compositions. Food for thought!

B

[pdh]

Is black foamcore 100% opaque in full Sun?

As I said, yes seems so, but I've just remembered the paper can peel off the foam as the glue softens in the heat.
It was suggested elsewhere that Gatorboard is a bit more robust for this sort of little project, but it's hard to find and expensive when you can over here.
As you're in the US it should be easier and cheaper to come by.

[Jim C.]

Gatorboard is a brand name, you may have luck looking for melamine coated foam board.

[JoeV]

Whelp...there's one project I can now forget..I been thinking of building one ever since I read about them years ago..

but..where yours is like fine cabinetry ...mine would be like a homeless persons trunk all slapped together

I'll just sit this one out... you did such a fine job

I didn't invent these, they've been used in Latin America and other countries (Afghanistan, India, etc.) for many decades. They just haven't been well known in America. And just because I made one doesn't mean you shouldn't; the more the merrier.

~Joe

[jb7]

Nice looking camera Joe, and great pictures from it-

As a child, I remember being in a family picture taken on one of these in Majorca in 1972-
I remember the photographer attaching a logo to the negative before photographing it...

[JoeV]

@jb7: Very interesting, thanks for that bit of detail. Many of the intricacies of operating these cameras have died with their users, it's up to us to preserve their legacy and perhaps relearn some of their lost technique.

~Joe

[Tin Can]

Nice looking camera Joe, and great pictures from it-

As a child, I remember being in a family picture taken on one of these in Majorca in 1972-
I remember the photographer attaching a logo to the negative before photographing it...

I agree, and I may make one also.

Really a great thing for modern times. A slow down and an interesting process for everybody in this digital gogo world.

You are an inspiration!

[CropDusterMan]

My newly completed 4x5 (not to be confused with a 5x4... Totally different animal :))
132983132985132986

This camera is a piece of art...well done.

[brandon allen]

Thank you very much!

[brandon allen]

Since this IS a thread about building LF cameras, I'll bore you with some details:

Focused with 3/8" 10TPI reverse-thread acme screw.

Front standard can be attached in three different positions to accommodate lenses from 90mm (possibly even 75mm) to 400mm. Were I to do another I wouldn't bother making it able to fit such long lenses and make it easier to use with the wides I'll probably use 90% of the time.

As mentioned, the front standard moves on 8" triple extension drawer slides which I modified slightly to allow them to be trimmed a bit shorter without sacrificing any extension.

The rear standard can slide forward about 1 1/2" and rearward about 6" on aluminum extrusions. They are actually the T-slot inserts for 1/4-20 bolts intended to be inletted into worktops or jigs. I just flipped them over. They tighten with knobs on the bottom of the camera (not visible in these pictures).

Other metal parts are aluminum or brass. I machined everything myself on a mini mill and mini lathe accquired during the build. I did a fair amount of soldering bits together (ground glass retaining springs, spring shackles, etc,) The springs for the back were flat spring stock ordered from Mcmaster-Carr. I cut them to length, annealed the sections where the bends would go then made the bends. I think these turned out a lot nicer than hacksaw blades do. (No offense meant to anyone there).

All the aluminum parts I made were anodized. All the brass parts were nickel plated - both new skills I accquired as I went.

The spring shackles turned out to be the fiddly-est part of the whole build. I probably made ten duds before I finally got the process right.

I had the glass cut at a local glass shop and ground it myself with silicone carbide grit. I may get some 600 or 800 grit and go even a bit finer than the 400 I used. I dressed the edges on my diamond sharpening stones - worked beautifully!

Wood is black walnut finished with three coats of polyurethane.

4x4" lens boards of my own design (meaning that they don't match any commercial lens boards I know of).

Bellows were made for me by Rudy in China.

In addition to standard film holders, it will fit a Polaroid 645 or 545. A Calumet 120 holder will fit, but not awfully well.

This project consumed about 9 months of fairly consistent work. A lot of that was spent in trial and error repetition. I could do another in a couple of months probably.

I'm planning to just use this camera for six months or so, then start in on a 5x7 version incorporating whatever improvements I discover this design needs. So far it doesn't seem to need much!

BTW, I said my camera could use Polaroid film holders, 545 and 405 (I said 645 in my earlier post...)

[lipi]

It's my... Not nice. Not portable friendly. But usable and cheap ;) The whole budget was about 50 bucks (without the brass lens)...
13x18 and 18x24 back, booth are roundable by 90 degree.
All correction capable.
I just made some DIY lens too with guillotine shutter and some film holder too like this: 133698.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/oldlipi/16338591041/in/album-72157650409738422/

[EdSawyer]

ok, it's not totally homemade, but I adapted a rangefinder from a Polaroid Bigshot onto a Cambo Maxiportrait. It makes it much better for handheld head-and-shoulders portraits, and works great. All credit for the idea goes to Misko, he planted the seed. ;-) I have another Maxiportrait and Bigshot to combine together soon, this one is a slightly later version than the one pictured (they had some design changes through the run, apparently.)

-Ed

134643134644134645134646

[DrTang]

I adapted a rangefinder from a Polaroid Bigshot onto a Cambo Maxiportrait.
134643134644134645134646


now wait one gosh darn minute...THATS what I was gonna do

but instead choose to stay with the factory viewfinder + 5' retractable sewing measuring tape combo

what lens do you have on yours? I have a 240 f9 artar...

and what kind of bracket is that for mounting the view/rangefinder?

if the measuring tape proves too much hassle - I might want to go back to the big shot solution


I have my Maxi on a monopod that will also - thru crazy plumbing - hold my off axis flash

[Tin Can]

now wait one gosh darn minute...THATS what I was gonna do

but instead choose to stay with the factory viewfinder + 5' retractable sewing measuring tape combo

what lens do you have on yours? I have a 240 f9 artar...

and what kind of bracket is that for mounting the view/rangefinder?

if the measuring tape proves too much hassle - I might want to go back to the big shot solution


I have my Maxi on a monopod that will also - thru crazy plumbing - hold my off axis flash

It's a popular conversion. :)

[EdSawyer]

I thought of keeping the factory viewfinders on mine, but the Bigshot viewfinder is the right proportion and size, so it works out fine. It also has better brightlines than at least one version of the Cambo viewfinder. The later version of the Cambo has a measuring tape built into the body. The earlier one has a measuring string attached to the side, which just simply unscrews.

The bracket I just fabbed up from a piece of aluminum I had handy. For the 2nd one I'll use pre-formed 90-degree aluminum channel from home despot.

I tried the measuring tape thing and it was a total hassle, esp. when trying to use handheld, shooting kids and portraits wide-open.

For lenses, one came with a Congo 240mm f/6.3, the other one with a G-Claron 240/9. I sourced a second Congo 240/6.3 as I like that one better so far (faster, plus it's a tessar so nice bokeh/rendering.) Both in a Copal Press 1 shutter. I will probably switch to a normal copal 1, since it offers faster speeds and I just like the operation of it better. the self-cocking nature of the Copal Press 1 doesn't seem like a huge advantage to me, in trade for the 1/125 max shutter speed. Hopefully I can get the cable release to fit a regular copal 1 with some fiddling.

Will probably try it with the Nikkor 270-T and 360-T lenses also, though I expect the focus distances and rangefinder to be uncalibrated at that point of course.

post pics of your setup sometime too.

-Ed

[DrTang]

here it is - frankencamera system street 4x5 - headshot mode:

http://www.mericphoto.com/lfp/fc1.jpg

http://www.mericphoto.com/lfp/fc4.jpg

http://www.mericphoto.com/lfp/fc3.jpg

[EdSawyer]

Nice. That's the later (?) model body, one of mine is like that. Does yours have the measuring tape built into the bottom? Or is it that purple thing on the side? Mine like that body has a metal tape measure built into the base. That is the better of the two types of viewfinders, I think. Any particular reason to take the handle off? I find it handy and use it on mine, but I don't use a monopod either... Did you take off the built-in cable release?

I find framing and shooting by having the rangefinder to be way faster than any other method. It's got a long baselength too, at least 5.5" so it's quite accurate/sensitive.

-Ed

[DrTang]

it came w/o the handle, cable release and measuring tape

I will rig up some handle before taking it 'out' probably

the measuring tape is a 3 dollar one that just happened to be 5' in length

I have a couple 'sawed off' big shot rangefinders sitting around.. maybe I'll try one of them

the parallax worries me though

[Steve Smith]

Not quite finished, but it was ready to expose some film last weekend. My 5x4 folding field camera.

135039 135040 135041



Steve.

[Tin Can]

it came w/o the handle, cable release and measuring tape

I will rig up some handle before taking it 'out' probably

the measuring tape is a 3 dollar one that just happened to be 5' in length

I have a couple 'sawed off' big shot rangefinders sitting around.. maybe I'll try one of them

the parallax worries me though

That outfit has got to scare children. Maybe not!

Since you are on monopod, you also need to control sway just as your victim does. How do you handle the tape measure?

Do you have them grab it, hold to forehead and then just let it go and you snap asap? Assuming it is auto rewind.

[DrTang]

That outfit has got to scare children. Maybe not!

Since you are on monopod, you also need to control sway just as your victim does. How do you handle the tape measure?

Do you have them grab it, hold to forehead and then just let it go and you snap asap? Assuming it is auto rewind.


we'll see - I haven't used it yet out in the open

I'm sure everything will be a mess..but I might get some cool images out of it anyway

I plan on corning my subject..then pulling out the tape and having them put it to their forhead..then they hold still and drop it and I shoot

[brandon allen]

That looks great! If you have more photos please post! Is that your own design?

[EdSawyer]

I will post pics of my 2nd one (Cambo Maxiportrait) when I get a chance. Parallax is not a huge issue, since when fabbing up a bracket, you can adjust the angles of the rangefinder/viewfinder to accommodate parallax. Mine frames up almost perfectly so far. Since it has a fixed focal distance, you only need to correct it for that one distance so it is fairly easy to dial it in.

Handle should be easy to come up with. I have thought of using a linhof grip on one of mine, as I find the cambo handle flimsy (but it is light).

-Ed

[buzzardkid]

Found this and thought it pretty interesting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-V3Qqx4Qpk

[Nimrod]

some upgrade
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[wilper]

After last year's prototype I built a larger camera this year. Made for Fuji HR-T 15x30 cm film it could perhaps be considered an ULF size camera as the image diagonal is larger than that of 8x10, but the surface area is not.

137866

The camera is not quite ready yet, I will attach a sleeved dark bag to the top of the camera so that I can change the film in the field. Right now I only have a simple lid and have to take it into the darkroom for every shot.

137867

There's a bit more about the camera and some sample images on my blog: https://photofying.wordpress.com/2015/07/29/summer-camera-project

[John Jarosz]

If i can interject here......

This used to be an interesting thread, but something has happened to it:
I started from the beginning of the thread just to view all the cameras. I noticed that many of the images posted on 3rd party sites are now missing. I suppose that's to be expected as people quit or the 3rd party site goes dark.
Then I came to a couple of posts of mine made in 2011. The post is the same but the photos are gone. I uploaded my images directly to this site. And there's no error message where the photo used to be. Then I began really reading each post. It seems that there are a LOT of camera images missing from a lot of posts. Again, no error messages in any of those posts.

This is really a shame, because it used to be a cool archive of original camera constructs and designs that could be useful to many people starting on a similar project.

I suppose this is a question for the moderators, but can this be fixed? Or at least determine what's going on?

And is the same thing happening on other older threads throughout this forum?

John

[czmielek]

Here is my quick take on old 9x12 camera and broken polaroid 340...
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[Tin Can]

If i can interject here......

This used to be an interesting thread, but something has happened to it:
I started from the beginning of the thread just to view all the cameras. I noticed that many of the images posted on 3rd party sites are now missing. I suppose that's to be expected as people quit or the 3rd party site goes dark.
Then I came to a couple of posts of mine made in 2011. The post is the same but the photos are gone. I uploaded my images directly to this site. And there's no error message where the photo used to be. Then I began really reading each post. It seems that there are a LOT of camera images missing from a lot of posts. Again, no error messages in any of those posts.

This is really a shame, because it used to be a cool archive of original camera constructs and designs that could be useful to many people starting on a similar project.

I suppose this is a question for the moderators, but can this be fixed? Or at least determine what's going on?

And is the same thing happening on other older threads throughout this forum?

John

This is also my pet peeve.

You need to start a thread in the right place, not sure myself where, but the Mods will move it.

This site is riddled with image holes, most from external hosts.

[tenspeed]

My new Homemade Wide-camera 4x5,Lens - Super-Angulon 65mm/8, Wood - The American walnut.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-80NVJHjYCmA/VDTjUHGq0jI/AAAAAAAACNo/nlKva6V6hbk/w934-h682-no/4_5_handy_new.jpg

Beautiful! Any instructions or info on how to make something similar? love how simple this is

[sestese]

My new 8x10 folding carbon fiber camera.
Following the simple design of my 4 years old 11x14 folding camera, I decided to build a new 8x10 much lighter ( 6 pounds without lens) with carbon fiber and aluminum.
after some 8x10 Polaroid testing, works great and now can't wait to take with me on my next trip.

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[sestese]

More photos

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[Ricardo de Oliveira]

Hi, sestese:
Really loved your clean project. I'm in the way of building a 6x17, considering carbon fiber. How do you focus her?
Congrats!

[Jim C.]

If i can interject here......

This used to be an interesting thread, but something has happened to it:
I started from the beginning of the thread just to view all the cameras. I noticed that many of the images posted on 3rd party sites are now missing. I suppose that's to be expected as people quit or the 3rd party site goes dark.
Then I came to a couple of posts of mine made in 2011. The post is the same but the photos are gone. I uploaded my images directly to this site. And there's no error message where the photo used to be. Then I began really reading each post. It seems that there are a LOT of camera images missing from a lot of posts. Again, no error messages in any of those posts.

This is really a shame, because it used to be a cool archive of original camera constructs and designs that could be useful to many people starting on a similar project.

I suppose this is a question for the moderators, but can this be fixed? Or at least determine what's going on?

And is the same thing happening on other older threads throughout this forum?

John

If I recall correctly there was a severe server crash a year or two ago and the forum techs were able to restore
a good amount of the forum back to where it once was at the time of the crash, some things were lost,
so that combined with members hosting of images changing could be the reason for missing images.

[Jim C.]

Sestese, Nice build !
Something that I've wanted to try myself.
Did you vacuum bag only carbon fiber or did you mix in kevlar layers ?

[sestese]

Hi Ricardo, for focusing I just slide in and out the front standard and lock it on the center rail.
Thanks.

[sestese]

Hi Jim, I did not make the carbon fiber.
I bought 20x30 and 35x35 carbon fiber sheets then have a friend of mine cut for me at my measurements.
Thanks.

[barnacle]

I'm seriously thinking of a CF camera, once I get the wooden one finished to prove it, then another thinner wooden one for a pattern. But I still need to finish making the tools to let the lathe do the woodworking I need... then all I need is a vacuum pump and all the CF goodies...

Back of the envelope, it'll need moulds making for:

- lens board
- front standard
- front frame
- base board
- inner base board
- traveller/standard support
- rear box
- 90 degree holder guide (for portrait and landscape)
- focussing screen

and all the associated nuts and bolts and brass bits and bellows and lens and the tripod stand... I've got the lens, and I've got the bellows, and I've got a first prototype which tells me where I went wrong.

What I'm looking for is a folding field camera on which a standard lens can stay attached - it'll poke through the baseboard. But it's going to be a while, I fear...

Neil

[Cropped_camera]

Hi Guys!
I have been a long time reader of this blog but this is my first post. I have found a lot of inspiration in this thread in particular.
I have built several cameras in the past few years. Thought you guys would like to check them out. And I would be happy to hear any feedback.


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This is the first camera I have made. Its a 4x5 monorail I made out of laser cut plywood.

141084

This is my second, and most liked, camera I made. It is a homemade instant press camera. The body is made of planed red oak and all metal components are made of machined steel.

141085

This is my most recent camera. It is made of brass and shoots 6x6 medium format film. I call it the Landers B66.

[jongrep]

Some of you have throughout the years referred to my website on building large format cameras. Please note that my website is now moving to: jongrepstad.com

My book on building a large format camera can be downloaded free of charge there.
My links to other camera bulders will soon be available at my new site.

Jon Grepstad

[analoguey]

Hi Guys!
I have been a long time reader of this blog but this is my first post. I have found a lot of inspiration in this thread in particular.
I have built several cameras in the past few years. Thought you guys would like to check them out. And I would be happy to hear any feedback.


141083

This is the first camera I have made. Its a 4x5 monorail I made out of laser cut plywood.

141084

This is my second, and most liked, camera I made. It is a homemade instant press camera. The body is made of planed red oak and all metal components are made of machined steel.

141085

This is my most recent camera. It is made of brass and shoots 6x6 medium format film. I call it the Landers B66.
Really like that second camera - I'm wondering how you've managed to add the flash sync with it -and what the two black metal boxes on top are for

[Dan Fromm]

Really like that second camera - I'm wondering how you've managed to add the flash sync with it -and what the two black metal boxes on top are for

PMFJI. The lens is in shutter, the shutter has flash sync. Just like typical lenses in shutter as are used on view cameras.

[Cropped_camera]

Really like that second camera - I'm wondering how you've managed to add the flash sync with it -and what the two black metal boxes on top are for

Correct, the flash is synced through a PC port on the lens. The three metal parts on the top are telescoping guide rods to keep the two standards parallel. And the Black box sitting on top of them is a rangefinder used with focusing.

[Henry Suryo]

My version of the Travelwide with 40mm rise maxed near the edge of the image circle for architectural subjects. I wanted to pair the lens in helical mount and the revolving back I had laying around so modelled the body in CAD, fabricated in layers of laser cut acrylic and covered in faux leather. I like the way these older Super Angulons render, but didn't like the original Compur 00 shutter mine came with, too delicate and fiddly with no open/close lever. Lucked out and found a Linhof retrofitted(?) one in late black Compur shutter that fits the original tight fit 00 helical mount, just had to tap the mounting hole larger.

[Tin Can]

Very pretty.

[brucep]

You should be very pleased with that.

[Jac@stafford.net]

but didn't like the original Compur 00 shutter mine came with, too delicate and fiddly with no open/close lever.

Very good design! Thanks for that.

About the shutter - I know you are right, and some of them had a funky tab one pulls up to hold the shutter open. It's not such a good implementation.

[Henry Suryo]

Thanks all for your kind comments, the camera is indeed quite fun to handle and use.

[Henry Suryo]

Another recent build, a 4x10 panoramic built around the 90 SA XL. This has a standard 8x10 back and shoots 2 using a splitter darkslide. Lens panel rotates to shoot on axis. No movement as the lens just covers. The helical mount is specifically for the XL which clears the a large diameter rear cell and has a focus travel from infinity to about 4 feet.

[pdh]

Another recent build, a 4x10 panoramic built around the 90 SA XL. This has a standard 8x10 back and shoots 2 using a splitter darkslide. Lens panel rotates to shoot on axis. No movement as the lens just covers. The helical mount is specifically for the XL which clears the a large diameter rear cell and has a focus travel from infinity to about 4 feet.

Now that is just the dog's bollocks ...

[Tin Can]

Another recent build, a 4x10 panoramic built around the 90 SA XL. This has a standard 8x10 back and shoots 2 using a splitter darkslide. Lens panel rotates to shoot on axis. No movement as the lens just covers. The helical mount is specifically for the XL which clears the a large diameter rear cell and has a focus travel from infinity to about 4 feet.

I would love to copy that idea and build. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

[Henry Suryo]

Thanks guys, the helical mount (Fotoman?) may be difficult to source, and calibrating focus to match the scale was slightly tricky. The image is sensationally wide with moderate fall off, but it covers contrary to the published spec of 259mm image circle.

[Sharon]

I would like to see some home made cameras. I have plans to make a LF camera and would like to see your designs. I would like to build 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 P&S cameras.

Well, here's mine, freshly built: a long focal length pinhole camera for macro photography, made out of the rear standard of an old Arca Swiss 4x5 and a traffic cone. Plus adhesive blackboard paper, adhesive felt, black card, glue and some rubber bands :) .

Yet to be tested for light-tightness, which will come later today...then testing what it can do!

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Sharon

[Tim Meisburger]

Well, here's mine, freshly built: a long focal length pinhole camera for macro photography, made out of the rear standard of an old Arca Swiss 4x5 and a traffic cone. Plus adhesive blackboard paper, adhesive felt, black card, glue and some rubber bands :) .

Yet to be tested for light-tightness, which will come later today...then testing what it can do!

151511

That looks great! I would be surprised if that plastic cone is lightproof, though, but if its not, then a coat of black paint on the inside might help. Looking forward to seeing your macro pinhole!

Sharon

[Sharon]

Yes, thanks, you're right--the inside is lined with adhesive blackboard paper. (Can't seem to get a good range of contact paper here in New Zealand...) The only issue is it's not matte, so we'll see if internal reflection is an issue :) .

[Lachlan 717]

Yes, thanks, you're right--the inside is lined with adhesive blackboard paper. (Can't seem to get a good range of contact paper here in New Zealand...) The only issue is it's not matte, so we'll see if internal reflection is an issue :) .

A dose of Blackboard spray paint would matte it down.

[Fr. Mark]

I had thought of using a round bellows style toilet plunger (smaller, shorter) to do something similar with a lens and plastic or cardboard stops. Those come in black already.

[DirkFletcher]

Fantastic thread, let's keep it going!

I built this a while back while waiting for a Travelwide using the amazingly durable and lightweight Harmon Ilford (it is actually designed and manufactured by master cameraman, Mike Walker, http://www.walkercameras.com)

More of my custom and DIY cameras on my Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/dirkfletcher/albums

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[wasiraj032]

hi i try to make my own camera but i have no idea that how and from where i start, its so congusing and difficult

[Jim Jones]

A free download of instructions for making large format cameras is available at https://jongrepstad.com/building-a-large-format-camera/

[DirkFletcher]

Wow, his camera is GORGEOUS! What a great resource!

Dirk

[Randy]

Since I missed the boat on the Travelwide I decided to "attempt" to make my own. I tend to use what I have on hand (out of necessity).

Camera body - wooden cigar box
Camera back - non Graflex Grafloc back
Lens - 90mm Schneider Super Angulon in Prontor Press shutter
Helicoid focuser - ebay'd from China
Focuser flange(s) - ebay'd from RAFCAMERA, Russia

Unfortunately, the size / weight difference between mine and the Travelwide is enormous. Travelwide (10oz) is plastic on plastic, mine (3.3lbs) is metal on wood. The Travelwide measures 6.3" X 5", mine is 7.75" X 7.25". I definitely could have made mine smaller and lighter if I had of not used the Grafloc back and instead, fabricated a simple slip in back, or used the Graflex back I have (I didn't want to be tied down to the old slotted film holders). The Travelwide was $149 without lens - I will have about $165 in mine, lens included.

Anyway, I am going to cover the camera in a yet undetermined material, then fashion a wrist strap and some sort of viewfinder / sports finder. If I decide it is just to heavy to carry around I may go back to the drawing-board.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/45a.jpg

I mounted a small loupe for critical ground-glass focusing.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/45b.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/45c.jpg

Top of camera
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/45d.jpg

[Randy]

The helicoid focuser has 15mm of travel, making it possible to focus from infinity to less than a meter. I plan on marking a distance scale on the focuser once I run some tests with it.

Camera bottom - tripod socket
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/45e.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/45f.jpg

[Tin Can]

Nice work!

[Fr. Mark]

I believe I have the same model lens and it covers 5x7 with v. little or no met even mounted on a Sinar DB board. Amazing the detail it can get. I imagine you will have fun with yours.

[Randy]

I didn't even think about it covering 5x7. I have a 5x7 back. Perhaps I'll play with it.

[MAubrey]

11x14 in process, but I'm getting there. The bellows is in process. I'm hoping for about a meter of extension. As soon as I have a film holder to work with, I'll be building a back around it.
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[JimNix]

Finally got around to starting the design for my laser cut large format wet plate camera.

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[DirkFletcher]

just rolled off the assembly line...
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Super lightweight, has some movements from the 2x3 Century Graphic standard and a composite rear standard from Walker Cameras TiTAN pinhole body made for Ilford.

Build notes are here (http://dirkfletcher.blogspot.com/2016/11/i-had-been-struggling-with-this-camera.html), more pics are on flickr here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskLqLGes

thanks for looking!
Dirk

[Tin Can]

just rolled off the assembly line...
157077
157078

Super lightweight, has some movements from the 2x3 Century Graphic standard and a composite rear standard from Walker Cameras TiTAN pinhole body made for Ilford.

Build notes are here (http://dirkfletcher.blogspot.com/2016/11/i-had-been-struggling-with-this-camera.html), more pics are on flickr here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskLqLGes

thanks for looking!
Dirk

Very nice. Really!

A 4 barrel Chicago camera!

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Some updated images of the 8x10 and 8x20 out in the field.

[IanG]

just rolled off the assembly line...
157077
157078

Super lightweight, has some movements from the 2x3 Century Graphic standard and a composite rear standard from Walker Cameras TiTAN pinhole body made for Ilford.

Build notes are here (http://dirkfletcher.blogspot.com/2016/11/i-had-been-struggling-with-this-camera.html), more pics are on flickr here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskLqLGes

thanks for looking!
Dirk

The finishing touch is to fill the grooves of the thumb wheels with black paint to match the centre of the focus track :D

http://lostlabours.co.uk/photography/cameras/images/new-graphic09.jpg

Ian

[DirkFletcher]

Hey Ian,
That's funny as night I was looking at how dirty the groves were in the pics and was wishing I caught that before I photographed the camera. Your painted rail trick turned out nice!
Dirk

[IanG]

Hey Ian,
That's funny as night I was looking at how dirty the groves were in the pics and was wishing I caught that before I photographed the camera. Your painted rail trick turned out nice!
Dirk

I'd tried filing the centre of my rail exposing the brass which looked ugly, this was to try putting a Super Graphic front standard on the rails to increase the range of movements. So painted it black to hide it :D (Dirk & I discussed this in PMs).

I think it makes your camera look better for it Dirk, another great conversion.

Ian

[Graham Patterson]

The sheer quality of the construction of these cameras is intimidating! However, in the tradition of 'a camera is just a light-tight box with film and a lens', here's my 8x10 monorail. I am not sure if I will want to do much in this format, but I can dip my toe in the water without breaking the bank.

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157896

More information at http://grahamp.dotinthelandscape.org/8x10.html

[Fr. Mark]

Looks nice to me!

[rosshj]

Here's my 8x10 I built. I constructed it out of poplar for the body, MDF for the film and ground glass holder and fake leather for the bellows. Took about 40 to 50 hours to build. I designed it in Sketch (UI design tool I use at work). Every part was made by me except the lens, which is a Fujinon 300mm f5.6.

I've shot paper negatives, x-ray film and now tintypes and ambrotypes. I've also made a 4x5 reducing back for it.

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[Tin Can]

Very nice camera build and images.

I also like your sturdy monopod!:)

[John Kasaian]

Yikes! This thread just caused me flashbacks of that terrible, ill-fated frozen turkey pinhole camera!

[MAubrey]

I finally have a light tight solution that converts my 4x5 Bender into a 5x7 camera. Now I can easily shoot both formats with just a quick change. I got the Bender on the auction site for $50 and the 5x7 back is from a Kodak Eastman 5x7 from the 1930's. That camera was lacking in movements--limited to front shift and tilting back. I'm pretty happy with the result. 5x7 Ilford Harman DP's on the way now.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5609/31353847131_936a2d479b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/PLCEpe)
Bender 5x7 Upgrade (https://flic.kr/p/PLCEpe) by Mike Aubrey (https://www.flickr.com/photos/50635732@N02/), on Flickr

[simos]

First post here...

.45
4x5 (9x12) 'point and shoot' camera.
Schneider-Kreuznach SA 65 mm f 8 Linhof Technika circa 1967.
Copper and wood, and and somthing else. 100% recycling things.162744162745

[EdSawyer]

Very nice! Love the copper!

[DrTang]

Most of my projects come about from either a 'really good deal'...or a harebrained idea

this one combined the two

got a Briggs 4x5 Aerial camera body for cheap..had a back but no lens cone or whatever it used

dug around looking for something to use and found an old Lindahl Bellows lens shade

so with a extra lensboard, a 150 lens that was sitting around, a focus finder off a Polaroid Big Shot, some JB Weld and black gaffers tape - I now have a handheld

4x5 camera

http://www.mericphoto.com/lfp/Briggs1.jpg

http://www.mericphoto.com/lfp/Briggs2.jpg

[Dan Fromm]

Interesting. Where did the spring back come from? I don't see a focusing scale or a rangefinder coupling. How do you use the RF?

[EdSawyer]

Tang: awesome. I have used bigshot rangefinders on a couple of Cambo Maxiportraits (Mikso gets the credit for the idea of course). They work great, the really long (relatively) baselength makes for very sensitive and accurate rangefinder.

[DrTang]

Interesting. Where did the spring back come from? I don't see a focusing scale or a rangefinder coupling. How do you use the RF? the back came with.... the RF is not quite a rangefinder so much as a focus finder... it came from a Polaroid Big Shot (I just hacksawed it right off) and is fixed at a specific distance... one focuses by moving back and forth until the images come together... I figure out how to adjust the distance inside of it..so I can adjust for the lens

[dswiger]

P&S 4x5, ready for light leak test.
The basics are.

1. 4x5 Pinhole camera from Ebay. I bought just the body parts & the ground glass - $130 shipped ($99.95 + $30 shipping)
I asked for just the body & ground glass, no view finder (was for 65mm), no pinhole/shutter or lensboard. Hence the lower price
I had to pay full & the seller refunded the difference
http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-Point-amp-Shoot-4x5-Large-Format-Camera-with-Pinhole-lens-amp-shutter-/192125956583?

2. A helicoid w/7mm travel (says 9) on a Linhoff lens board. Also from Ebay, $131.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Helicoid-Focusing-Lens-Board-00-0-1-For-Linhof-Wista-Shen-Hao-Or-DIY-Camera-/281092057033?hash=item41726467c9

3. Fabricated spacer to accomodate 90mm lens
I had to add about 3/8" (10mm) worth of spacer.
This was fab'd out of ABS sheet with the 3 1/4" hole cut by the supplier

The body as delivered was "sized" for a 60-65mm lens.
They could make a different body piece for a 90mm & I am lobbying them to consider it.

It was a drill/dremel & router project with some ABS cement.
The spacer is removable.

It weights 2Lb, 5 oz with lens & film holder.

Have done focus test & works down to about 6.5ft. If I redo spacer, will add 1-2mm
I have done basic light leak tests & hopefull with film in the next few weeks.
I think the inside "matte" finish enough but will try some reflections tests
163751

[Dan Fromm]

Cute.

Y'know, the Graflex XL had a set of stackable extension backs of several lengths. They were intended to be used for closeup work, with focusing on the GG, but stackable spacers for the front somewhat like the one you made would solve the problem of using longer lenses without requiring a different longer camera body. You might want to discuss this with the seller. Offering them might help sales.

[stevelmx5]

I've just come across this thread so will share my ongoing progress on a new laser cut acrylic 4x5 field camera I'm producing. I'm intending to put this through a Kickstarter campaign in the next month or so, once I've nailed down the costs for the components.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/stevelloyd/DY4528

This was the first full assembly;

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4227/34006741764_135da12a5b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TP4rxS)First assembly (https://flic.kr/p/TP4rxS) by Steve Lloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/), on Flickr

I've since redesigned the hinge-mechanism to move away from a 3D printed piece to using acrylic so it can all be cut together. The camera folds around on itself for transportation and will weigh <1Kg.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4245/34833365352_6f575fcccb_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/V576WG)Trying out a design for a new modular technical front standard. Has full range of movements (tilt, shift, swing and rise/fall) with independent controls to separate movements. (https://flic.kr/p/V576WG) by Steve Lloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/), on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4271/34830011642_ca562109ef_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/V4NV17)New Supports-Closed (https://flic.kr/p/V4NV17) by Steve Lloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/), on Flickr

I've designed 3 separate, interchangeable, front standards which offer different levels of control.

"Traditional" - Classic design which uses a base threaded knob to control shift/swing and a pair of knobs either side of the lens board frame to control rise/fall and tilt.

"Technical" - Similar design but has individual knobs to control Rise/Fall, Tilt and Shift/Swing independently

"Remote" - Digital standard which has three embedded stepper motors and handheld remote to control movements without touching the camera itself.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4243/34836093952_b33cf1cabd_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/V5m64w)All Standards (https://flic.kr/p/V5m64w) by Steve Lloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/), on Flickr

[Dan Fromm]

Interesting. Its time to display my ignorance.

Why acrylic? Why not polycarbonate? I ask because acrylic is more fragile.

[barnacle]

I like that. It has an interestingly chunky look - but I'd like to see it with a hand in shot (or similar) for a better sense of scale.

Neil

[dswiger]

I have finally tested my P&S 4x5 plastic camera above at Yosemite. No light leaks and focus was good.
Now I need to fabricate a different center piece to make it a two lens solution.
Right now, my total cost for everything is ~$300

[stevelmx5]

Sorry, I wasn't getting notifications from this thread. I chose acrylic because it is widely available in many colours and can be cut by the laser cutters used by a local firm. As all of the parts are laminated and 3/5mm thick, they are much stronger than a thin sheet of acrylic/perspex on its' own.

[stevelmx5]

I like that. It has an interestingly chunky look - but I'd like to see it with a hand in shot (or similar) for a better sense of scale.

Neil

Thanks. I'll take some more photos once I've built an updated version I'm finishing up now. To give an idea of size, the rear standard is 208mmx208mm and the whole camera, once folded down, will be around 80mm thick.

[Pere Casals]

Sorry, I wasn't getting notifications from this thread. I chose acrylic because it is widely available in many colours and can be cut by the laser cutters used by a local firm. As all of the parts are laminated and 3/5mm thick, they are much stronger than a thin sheet of acrylic/perspex on its' own.


Hello Steve,

I'm excited with your project: Great !!!!

I'm very happy to see projects like this one !!!

Best Regards,
Pere

[Pere Casals]

Interesting. Its time to display my ignorance.

Why acrylic? Why not polycarbonate? I ask because acrylic is more fragile.


Also...


Polycarbonate is high impact-resistant, so ideal to hit it with a rock, this would make the camera only destroyable by fire, but substantially less rigid for the same design.

[stevelmx5]

Hello Steve,

I'm excited with your project: Great !!!!

I'm very happy to see projects like this one !!!

Best Regards,
Pere

Thanks Pere. I'm excited about it to :0) I'm making a few final adjustments to the overall design to make the camera easier to setup and also to simplify the manufacturing process. Once I'm happy with those, I'll build another one and get it out in the field to test it thoroughly.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4242/34275448824_075835d108_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UdNCNd)NewHinge (https://flic.kr/p/UdNCNd) by Steve Lloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/), on Flickr

[Pere Casals]

Thanks Pere. I'm excited about it to :0) I'm making a few final adjustments to the overall design to make the camera easier to setup and also to simplify the manufacturing process. Once I'm happy with those, I'll build another one and get it out in the field to test it thoroughly.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4242/34275448824_075835d108_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UdNCNd)NewHinge (https://flic.kr/p/UdNCNd) by Steve Lloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/), on Flickr

Let point a way I use with 3d printing (instead laser, that also I use), for the case it can be useful to manufacture some rigid parts that you may need to be very more rigid.

Rather than printing the 3D part I print a PE mold of the part, and I fill it with a technical resin mixed with cut fiberglass (1/4" or 1/2" length), it works like reinforced concrete. Also sometimes I place a metallic (alluminium, titanium) part inside the mold, usualy a (perhaps angled) plating with holes, or little pipe. I also add black dye to make it light tight.

This delivers very rigid parts, perhaps it can be useful to make a 5x7 or 8x10, where rigidity is more critical. The Polyethylene 3D printed mold can be reused some 50 times, just spraying the mold with Silicone Mold Release Spray before pousing the resin+Catalyst.


Also sometimes I use Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP). It can be cut it with water jet.


Regards

[stevelmx5]

Let point a way I use with 3d printing (instead laser, that also I use), for the case it can be useful to manufacture some rigid parts that you may need to be very more rigid.

Rather than printing the 3D part I print a PE mold of the part, and I fill it with a technical resin mixed with cut fiberglass (1/4" or 1/2" length), it works like reinforced concrete. Also sometimes I place a metallic (alluminium, titanium) part inside the mold, usualy a (perhaps angled) plating with holes, or little pipe. I also add black dye to make it light tight.

This delivers very rigid parts, perhaps it can be useful to make a 5x7 or 8x10, where rigidity is more critical. The Polyethylene 3D printed mold can be reused some 50 times, just spraying the mold with Silicone Mold Release Spray before pousing the resin+Catalyst.


Also sometimes I use Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP). It can be cut it with water jet.


Regards

Thanks for advice Pere, that's very useful information. With my 5x4, I've redesigned the hinge mechanism since building the first version to remove the need for the 3D printed hinge due to the added cost and complexity. I now have the hinge mechanism built around laser cut acrylic parts instead which, whilst being faster and simpler to produce, should also increase stability (along with the vertical supports either side of the rear standard) over the printed hinge.

Cheers

[stevelmx5]

It's been a while since I updated my progress but I ran a dry assembly of my Chroma to check the alignment/fit;

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4327/36050883885_704d68454d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WVGcMx)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/WVGcMx) by Steve Lloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/), on Flickr

I've also finalised my bellows design/assembly so all three layers (internal blackout, card ribs, external colour) are laser cut then laminated so I can now cut/assemble a set of bellows in around 20 minutes which is a massive time saving for the overall assembly.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4323/35528892550_729e739b5d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W8yRWW)First build of laser cut bellows (https://flic.kr/p/W8yRWW) by Steve Lloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/), on Flickr

I've also changed the focusing mechanism to move away from a traditional rack/pinion layout and am now using a rubber friction assembly which gives a completely step-less adjustment;

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4313/35879810072_4a4d3973e1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WEzpv3)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/WEzpv3) by Steve Lloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/), on Flickr

I'm planning on launching my camera through a Kickstarter campaign in August.

[Nimrod]

6x9
Lens: Schneider Super Angulon f/4 53mm
Focusing ring: from Flektogon f/4 50mm
Wood: jatoba, pear
Weight: 1286 (inclunding Horseman roll folm holder, viewfinder, lens cap and Ilford FP4+)
Dimensions: 173x143x160 mm (inclunding Horseman roll folm holder, viewfinder and lens cap)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4299/35596024560_8423a62c76_b.jpg

and with homemade medium format view camera
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4292/35145236434_47a71b0c74_b.jpg

[DirkFletcher]

Here is a new one I just finished. After completing my 520/15 Zeiss Ikonta with a fixed 47mm Super Angulon a couple years back, I almost immediately started building a companion camera with a less extreme 65mm in a focus mount. As always I enjoyed the process and the problem solving, especially glad I sent it to a leather guy and had the camera recovered after stripping the old paint and leather. Enjoy!
169847
169848
169849

[Jac@stafford.net]

This is great stuff! Keep 'em coming.
.

[Steven Tribe]

This is great stuff! Keep 'em coming.
.

Agreed - just not medium format cameras!

[Jac@stafford.net]

Agreed - just not medium format cameras!

Aw, Steve. Can we lighten up a bit? Good ideas come from diverse projects. For example, this is one built from a nominal MF Veriwide 6x9 camera with 47mm f/5.6 S-A (actual format 56mm x 80mm) with a snap-on 4x5 back. Super rare, or at least strange. It also accepts rollfilm backs up to 6x12cm.

http://www.digoliardi.net/veriwide-4x5/veriwide-4x5.jpg

[DirkFletcher]

I could post a pic of my HolgaBlad but I don't wanna get tossed out of the group ;)
169944

[stevelmx5]

I could post a pic of my HolgaBlad but I don't wanna get tossed out of the group ;)
169944

You're just a rebel Dirk!

My Chroma camera is almost ready for its' Kickstarter launch. I'm shooting the video for it on the 28th then will be starting the campaign a few weeks after that.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4418/36306825001_525d9d9998.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XjiYap)First assembly of my Mark 2 (ish!) Chroma (https://flic.kr/p/XjiYap) by Steve Lloyd (https://www.flickr.com/photos/stevelloyd/), on Flickr

I've made some changes to the front standard and focus mechanism since this picture was taken but it's nearly there.

[Topsy]

and with homemade medium format view camera
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4292/35145236434_47a71b0c74_b.jpg

Those two are absolutely gorgeous!

[Nimrod]

thank you

[Andrew O'Neill]

The 14x17...

[Tin Can]

Nice!

[James R. Kyle]

Here is one of my Sliding-Box cameras (I have built four of them now).
This one is the Sliding-Box 8X10 Model #4.172172
172173
172174

[Dan Fromm]

Cute. Stupid question of the day. I see that the film holder slides into the rear box, which doesn't have a conventional back. How do you focus it?

[plywood]

Here is one of my Sliding-Box cameras (I have built four of them now).
This one is the Sliding-Box 8X10 Model #4.172172
172173
172174
Neat and tidy. love to hear more details, i.e. what lens, where is the GG, how do you keep it light tight, etc.
Would love to go to 8X10 in a box camera but too tight to get 8x10 holders, even used about $100 each.

[Jimi]

Looks like the groundglass goes in the same place as the film holder ... like a separate frame you slide in, focus and replace with the filmholder.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Homemade Sinar Norma Handy, made from Norma and other parts. A work in progress.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4636/27468791959_0d875031aa_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HRjJRn)Norma Sinar Handy Final Version (https://flic.kr/p/HRjJRn) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

[Daniel Unkefer]

Here I've attached the Pentax 6x7 Strap lugs, and the cable release extension. So this is how I intend to carry the camera outside, it's actually very comfortable and weighs only 3.5 lbs. On the other shoulder I will carry my favorite Swedish medical bag, with holders and related stuff. Very compact and discreet.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4692/39396426651_b3262020f7_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/232jZ6n)Sinar Handy with Strap and Cable Extension (https://flic.kr/p/232jZ6n) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

I'm hoping I can take my Wife shooting tomorrow at the local botanical garden "Crystal Palace". A good place to shoot inside when it is cold. I have some 4x5" HP5+ and Tri-X Ortho loaded up ready to go. Eighteen sheets in all.

[MAubrey]

Just posted this in the regular "show us your LF camera" thread, but it ought to be here.

I've finally finished it. Bellows are ugly and not quite straight, but they fold and they're light tight, so that's something. I've got a Symmar 360mm mounted and I'm waiting for a 1000mm CF tube to arrive in the mail for using my APO-Ronar. Now I just need to make a couple more lens boards and an adapter so I don't always need the giant/heavy packard mount when I'm just using the Symmar or my Angulon 210 f/6.8.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4656/39002836194_5c6835488c_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22qxJn1)
Homemade 11x14 Camera (https://flic.kr/p/22qxJn1) by Mike Aubrey (https://www.flickr.com/photos/50635732@N02/), on Flickr

[Daniel Unkefer]

That's lovely work; I have a Sinar Symmar 360mm on an auto-iris Norma board. Great glass. Love it

Do you have a 1000mm Apo Ronar? I've been looking for one for years that is affordable. I have 'em all from 150 up to 800mm

[MAubrey]

That's lovely work; I have a Sinar Symmar 360mm on an auto-iris Norma board. Great glass. Love it

Do you have a 1000mm Apo Ronar? I've been looking for one for years that is affordable. I have 'em all from 150 up to 800mm

My APO Ronar is a 600mm. The 1000mm tube is for a focusing rail long enough to shoot portraits with it.

[Cropped_camera]

Hi Everyone,
I've recently started a YouTube Channel to document my camera making process. Right now I'm making an all aluminum medium format camera using a combination of methods including casting, welding, and machining.
Check it out and let me know what everyone things!

Here is the most recent video:
https://youtu.be/-tc_Crt-wro

174978

[barnacle]

Some interesting videos there... but my word it looks heavy - what does it weigh?

Neil

[Steve M Hostetter]

Hi Everyone,
I've recently started a YouTube Channel to document my camera making process. Right now I'm making an all aluminum medium format camera using a combination of methods including casting, welding, and machining.
Check it out and let me know what everyone things!

Here is the most recent video: Interesting.. I'd like to see this in 1/4" ebony
https://youtu.be/-tc_Crt-wro

174978

[buzzardkid]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4719/25009097357_fcd64a2b47_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/E6YakK)
20180124_DSC01333 (https://flic.kr/p/E6YakK) by Johan Niels Kuiper (https://www.flickr.com/photos/johannielscom/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4721/25009096917_eae1246de7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/E6Yada)
20180124_DSC01335 (https://flic.kr/p/E6Yada) by Johan Niels Kuiper (https://www.flickr.com/photos/johannielscom/), on Flickr


Sliding box camera with a vintage Petzval lens (has aperture) and a modern Cambo rear board, so I can use modern film holders.
Portrait machine, this camera focuses from 90 cms to 2.90 meters.
I has no shutter, I plan to use my black hat and shoot low light sittings on ISO 100 film.

It wasn't fully completed in the pictures. It is now.

[Tin Can]

Smart!

[Jac@stafford.net]

Most recent - 4x5, 75mm Biogon with universal back.

176849

Another - 47mm ƒ/5.6 Super-Angulon over 4x5 (not universal back)

176850

Industrial-like 47mm ƒ/5.6 Super-Angulon with 4x5 back

176852

A wooden prototype to test a 3" Pacific Optical over 4x5 (It worked). Focus base was on the right vertical side

176851

There are several more. I will spare you all from seeing them.
-- Jac

[Tin Can]

Tidy!

Looks almost like parts from...brain fade....I have a cold.

[Tin Can]

Jac is the Pacific optical 2 halves, front, and rear.

I have what I think is just the front half.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Jac is the Pacific optical 2 halves, front, and rear.

I have what I think is just the front half.

It was almost two parts with the middle housing an electrically controlled shutter which slipped into a slot. Yeah, two parts.

ACH! I forgot the later Pacific Optical (PO) in conventional shutter. Here is the PO which covers 5x5" mounted on a Sinar Alpina. Mounted in shutter.

176853

Bellows removed

176854

Showing how close the oversized rear element is to the focal plane when focused @ infinity - it becomes clear why it covers more than 4x5. It is not clear from this angle but the rear lens is greater than 4")

176855

Hope this helps, Randy

Here is what it looks like on the bench. Note the extra large rear element cluster.

176856

I have a handy machining tip for exactly placing the shutter if anyone is interested.

[Tin Can]

I only have the front. At least it was free...

Thanks.

[Jac@stafford.net]

I only have the front. At least it was free...

Thanks.

Oh, it did detach front and back!

This is what it looked like originally. Look at that mess of gears for the shutter!

176858

[Tin Can]

Oh, it did detach front and back!

This is what it looked like originally. Look at that mess of gears for the shutter!

176858

Clockwork custom Mil $$$

[B.S.Kumar]

I have a handy machining tip for exactly placing the shutter if anyone is interested.

Please tell. I'm assembling a lens (not this specific one) and would like to know.

Thanks,
Kumar

[Jac@stafford.net]

Clockwork custom Mil $$$
Not enough $$$ signs. $75,000 each is what I gathered.

You wanna see insanity? I tried to scoop the market on the PO optical from government sales years ago at $25 each, but some good old boy in Georgia beat me by $30 each and got most of 'em all. I got six and 4 were defective and went to the trash. :( Shit, couldn't even make ant burners of the scraps.

Now look at eBay # 302688014944

Insane

[Jac@stafford.net]

Please tell. I'm assembling a lens (not this specific er one) and would like to know.

Thanks,
Kumar

The tip is to first find where the shutter should be starting from the front lens side, then machine a relief between where the rear of the shutter should fit so there is a gap. Then machine spacer(s) (of the same diameter) to make the distance perfect to fill the gap. The spacers will be thin. It is most cost-effective to machine the spacers rather than trying to make the whole assembly perfect the first time.

Thanks for the nudge. If I ever pull the lenses from storage I will try to remember to make pictures of the technique!

[Tin Can]

Not enough $$$ signs. $75,000 each is what I gathered.

You wanna see insanity? I tried to scoop the market on the PO optical from government sales years ago at $25 each, but some good old boy in Georgia beat me by $30 each and got most of 'em all. I got six. :(

Now look at eBay # 302688014944

Insane

I won't tell my buddy who missed a lot of his father's goodies by not letting me fully in.

I wrote about him before. I got a lot of good stuff, but the pile was disorganized and filled a bedroom top to bottom. And side to side. Took us 3 days just to step in. I found the Leicas in a living room piano. He gave them away at NYC auction.

He could have bought his new 2007 Moto Guzzi he just picked up today close to you on the other side of the river.

Nice bike I insisted he run and get. Perfect for his Italian spirit!

[B.S.Kumar]

Thanks, Jac.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Thanks, Jac.

You are welcome.
Please keep us informed of your project!

[B.S.Kumar]

You are welcome.
Please keep us informed of your project!

Certainly.

[Degroto]

My homebuild camera's. A pinhole and a wide angly fixedfocus camera. The wide angle is not yet finished but I took it out for a test run.

177026

177027

177028

177029

[Tin Can]

Efficent!

[argos33]

Some great cameras here. Question - for those of you handheld style cameras that aren't fixed focus, where do you find the focusing helical/mounts, or do you make your own?

[Daniel Unkefer]

Schneider made focusing mounts. Mine is for the 65mm F8 Super Angulon in 00 Compur. It was offered by Sinar during the Norma era. Schneider made many different mounts for their lenses.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4692/39396426651_b3262020f7_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/232jZ6n)Sinar Handy with Strap and Cable Extension (https://flic.kr/p/232jZ6n) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

[pepeguitarra]

I finished my 8x10 pinhole camera. It can accept regular film holder as well as dry glass holders. Now, I don't need to by any 8x10 camera or lenses for it.



https://farm1.staticflickr.com/890/41469589422_9f8570ff40_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26bwua5)20180416_200336 (https://flic.kr/p/26bwua5) by Palenquero Photography (https://www.flickr.com/photos/palenquero/), on Flickr


https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/40799082374_a36c0551ae_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25agXLJ)Pinhole Camera (https://flic.kr/p/25agXLJ) by Palenquero Photography (https://www.flickr.com/photos/palenquero/), on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/39702265750_6180e91cb9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23umuph)20180416_200216 (https://flic.kr/p/23umuph) by Palenquero Photography (https://www.flickr.com/photos/palenquero/), on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/936/40798144924_4033e4598f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25aca6N)20180416_200143 (https://flic.kr/p/25aca6N) by Palenquero Photography (https://www.flickr.com/photos/palenquero/), on Flickr

[koenrutten]

Some great cameras here. Question - for those of you handheld style cameras that aren't fixed focus, where do you find the focusing helical/mounts, or do you make your own?

For small lenses (like 90mm angulon 6.8) you can source cheap helicoids on ebay.
It’s called “M58 to M58 Focusing Helicoid Ring 17 - 31mm Macro Extension Tube” and costs about 50 usd
If you screw a “58mm filter stack cap” (2 usd) to the front you can drill a copal 0 or 00 sized hole in it and mount the lens in.
To mount it on the camera I use a “58mm cokin P filter ring”. Just drill some holes for some small countersunk bolts.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Pepe! Great selection of wood figuring for the front!
I love it!