Show us your home made camera...

[Steve M Hostetter]

4x10" Black Walnut box camera w/ dovetail joints. Made by my woodcrafting friend Eric Johnson.This build was inspired by the Baltic Birch models made for Rod Klukas and by Jay Dusard & with which he photographed his book "Open Country. Thanks to Jay & Keith Canham for the phone conversations about dimensions and for the back & other Canham parts...

I forgot about this Greg when I seen you selling your 90mm lens... This is very sweet camera!

[Andrew Plume]

4x10" Black Walnut box camera w/ dovetail joints. Made by my woodcrafting friend Eric Johnson.This build was inspired by the Baltic Birch models made for Rod Klukas and by Jay Dusard & with which he photographed his book "Open Country. Thanks to Jay & Keith Canham for the phone conversations about dimensions and for the back & other Canham parts...


and I've just posted a comment re this camera is 'the fs section'

andrew

[Steve M Hostetter]

Made a rail camera out of stuff mostly in the garage:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/IMG_6262.jpg

It has rise/fall, swing, tilt, etc...

Here's the camera set up for a shot this morning to test it out:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/IMG_6265.jpg

Here's the shot:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/ApplesOranges.jpg

Here's a video of me making the camera step by step:

http://www.vimeo.com/22496565

It took me about 4 hours total time and cost very little

Excellent video! makes me wanna try makin some bellows :) or rail to for that matter!

[Ken Kapinski]

Being a little bored today, and a little inspired from reading this thread, I started to make my camera today. When I am done it is going to be a fixed focus, 65mm, 4x5.
Here (http://www.livingstonphotosociety.com/) is a little right up on what I have done so far.

Ken


http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B7kPbrdgCHI/Tbi66mhfVAI/AAAAAAAAAWw/jAo-KR-7UTw/s1600/_DSC3022edit.JPG

[LF4Fun]

Ken.... sweet, can't wait to see the finish camera.

[Ken Kapinski]

Thanks, I cant wait either but I'm gonna have too. Had a little set back today. I guess I'll see how my gluing skills are.

Ken


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OWG_0IOLOMM/TbnieurfXQI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/RHcL6SOWXwc/s1600/_DSC3033.JPG

[Steve M Hostetter]

Ken,, Don't feel bad! If It's any consolation, I've done that too many times!

Get er done :D

steve

[Roger Thoms]

Thanks, I cant wait either but I'm gonna have too. Had a little set back today. I guess I'll see how my gluing skills are.

Ken


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OWG_0IOLOMM/TbnieurfXQI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/RHcL6SOWXwc/s1600/_DSC3033.JPG

Ken, you might think about a little redesign. Having the grain perpendicular to the narrow edges is very weak. It's a little more work but I would be much stronger if you made up a frame out of four piece of wood with some kind of tongue and groove or box joint. Take a look at just about any wood field camera and you'll see what I mean.

Roger

[Ken Kapinski]

Roger, my thought was to glue these 5 layers of wood together. That would give me the required depth and provide strength. I just had to try and get fancy with my connecting of the frame to the wood using t-nuts. I should have just used wood screws. Oh well, I'll get it.

Ken

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CfeEL5ecYO8/TbnjJKIUBwI/AAAAAAAAAXo/0hQnwUMn1is/s1600/_DSC3031.JPG

[briand]

Hi all :D
I have nearly finished my last 4x5 wide, all the machining is now done, some of the components are finished, it should all be up and running in about a week.
Its been great fun and at times a challenge. there are some great,
cameras here, good luck to every one having a go. will post some pics when its all done. :)

[briand]

Hi all :D
I have nearly finished my last 4x5 wide, all the machining is now done, some of the components are finished, it should all be up and running in about a week.
Its been great fun and at times a challenge. there are some great,
cameras here, good luck to every one having a go. will post some pics when its all done. :)

Finished the camera today. :D
Now I can test it with both the 58 XL & the 47XL dont think there will be any problems though.it was time consuming doing all the machining but was well worth the effort.
Cheers All. :)

[Sart_S]

Wow, Joseph, fantastic...

[Ken Kapinski]

Getting ready to wrap this project up. I am working on the focus distance now. Looks like focus is at about 5'9". Not sure if I want to mess with this anymore. Schneider website list the hyper-focal distance as 6.3 feet at f22. Once I settle on focus, put some finish on the wood, attach back, lens board, and tripod mount. Shouldn't be much longer now.

Ken


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v_TPVtuIiE4/TchWLDFCGsI/AAAAAAAAAYY/E6HHn_SG3Qo/s1600/MockUP.JPG

[Roger Thoms]

Roger, my thought was to glue these 5 layers of wood together. That would give me the required depth and provide strength. I just had to try and get fancy with my connecting of the frame to the wood using t-nuts. I should have just used wood screws. Oh well, I'll get it.

Ken

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CfeEL5ecYO8/TbnjJKIUBwI/AAAAAAAAAXo/0hQnwUMn1is/s1600/_DSC3031.JPG

Looks good, I did realize you were laminating five layers together.

Roger

[Tim k]

Getting ready to wrap this project up. I am working on the focus distance now. Looks like focus is at about 5'9". Not sure if I want to mess with this anymore. Schneider website list the hyper-focal distance as 6.3 feet at f22. Once I settle on focus, put some finish on the wood, attach back, lens board, and tripod mount. Shouldn't be much longer now.

Ken


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v_TPVtuIiE4/TchWLDFCGsI/AAAAAAAAAYY/E6HHn_SG3Qo/s1600/MockUP.JPG

You just got to love a camera built with duct tape.

[Roger Thoms]

Btw what kind of wood is that?

Roger

[dave_whatever]

Roger, my thought was to glue these 5 layers of wood together. That would give me the required depth and provide strength. I just had to try and get fancy with my connecting of the frame to the wood using t-nuts. I should have just used wood screws. Oh well, I'll get it.

Ken

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CfeEL5ecYO8/TbnjJKIUBwI/AAAAAAAAAXo/0hQnwUMn1is/s1600/_DSC3031.JPG

Ken I've got the exact same horseman back frame that I'm contemplating attaching to an ikea wooden box of about the right size to make a camera. Can you divulge how you fixed the frame to the wood?

[Roger Thoms]

Are pinhole cameras welcome here? This one use 5 1/2" x 14" paper/film. Made from 1/4" bamboo plywood. The most impractical camera I've used since you have to load and unload it in the dark for each shot, but fun just the same. I have some x-ray film that's scheduled for delivery today. At f380 exposures with paper are quite long. So thought I would try x-ray film.

Roger

[Ken Kapinski]

Roger, I am using Poplar. Its what The Home Depot had.

Tim, Its "Gorilla Tape" thank you.....and it was only temporary to figure out where my focus was. Although its real sticky so I bet it would last a long time on there if needed.

Dave, I haven't really attached it yet, but, its going to be a brass bar across the top and bottom. Going to fit in the groove that is on the four sides of the frame. A couple more coats of Tru oil and I will attach the frame and the lens board and she will be all done.

Ken

[Peter De Smidt]

It looks great, Roger.

[Roger Thoms]

It looks great, Roger.

Thanks

[Roger Thoms]

It looks great, Roger.

Thanks

[Sart_S]

Are pinhole cameras welcome here? This one use 5 1/2" x 14" paper/film. Made from 1/4" bamboo plywood. The most impractical camera I've used since you have to load and unload it in the dark for each shot, but fun just the same. I have some x-ray film that's scheduled for delivery today. At f380 exposures with paper are quite long. So thought I would try x-ray film.

Roger


Wonderful camera!:)

[Ken Kapinski]

Finished the camera today. Turned out pretty good. I have a little light leak at the lens board that I need to take care of then it will be ready for some pictures. I also will work on some sort of viewfinder / framing device so I wont have to use the ground glass. More photos of the project here (http://www.livingstonphotosociety.com/).

Roger, nice pinhole

Ken


http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NPgvEN_YCvQ/Tc2AWt2OMqI/AAAAAAAAAYg/Vajv2kd2Hg4/s1600/finished%2Bside.JPG

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ro_Ee3cF-oo/Tc2AXPij3sI/AAAAAAAAAYw/EWEaHKi5C-Q/s1600/finished%2Bfront.JPG

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x9VTLkFHyUo/Tc2AW4Jn_PI/AAAAAAAAAYo/3bGh9KLlAYY/s1600/finished%2Bback.JPG

[Tim k]

Ken, looks good but I think the black tape added a manly utilitarian touch.:)

[dave_whatever]

Dave, I haven't really attached it yet, but, its going to be a brass bar across the top and bottom. Going to fit in the groove that is on the four sides of the frame.

Thanks for the info - that sounds like a good way of attaching it (certainly better than what I was going to attempt....) and it looks like a fine piece of work overall. Hope you get some good shots with it.

[Ken Kapinski]

Tim, I think your on to something there with the tape. Plus, I didn't have any light leaks with it either. Where did I put that roll????

Ken

[Rob Klurfield]

Why does this thread make me guess that some folks on LFPF have also constructed some very good sounding, rather large DIY horn-loaded audio speakers? In any case, this thread is amazing.

As I am sufficiently challenged by using cameras made at factories, I can only stand in awe of what you've all posted here. Very, very cool stuff. Congrats to you all for talent that is slightly (a mile or so) beyond my grasp.

[Steve M Hostetter]

Getting ready to wrap this project up. I am working on the focus distance now. Looks like focus is at about 5'9". Not sure if I want to mess with this anymore. Schneider website list the hyper-focal distance as 6.3 feet at f22. Once I settle on focus, put some finish on the wood, attach back, lens board, and tripod mount. Shouldn't be much longer now.

Ken


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v_TPVtuIiE4/TchWLDFCGsI/AAAAAAAAAYY/E6HHn_SG3Qo/s1600/MockUP.JPG

I noticed you constructed your camera body in a most unconventional way.. What exactly is the weight..?
If you decide you want it lighter you could rip off some of the 1-1/2 thick walls with a tablesaw and re-sand.. would of helped by running the grain of the boards in different directions though

[PolarBear1973]

Finally finished my 8x10, took it out this morning to try it out. Had to use some significant front rise to get the top of the building. 300mm, f/32, 2 seconds

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/DSC_0636-1.jpg

Here's the test shot:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/KipsCastleMorning2.jpg

[Ken Kapinski]

Steve, "most unconventional" comes from lack of woodworking knowledge. To me this seemed the easiest way to get it done with the limited tools I have. Not sure what the completed camera weighs but the box itself doesn't seem too heavy. I think I got my light leak fixed so hopefully tomorrow I will run some film through it.

PolarBear, nice work on the 8x10

Ken

[chij]

this thread is incredible
i'm blown away

[Craig Roberts]

My home built 12 x 20, Craig

[Curt]

My home built 12 x 20, Craig

Nice one, any other views?

[SamReeves]

My home built 12 x 20, Craig

Where's the camera? :D

[John Jarosz]

Here's my half home made 8x20. I started with (2) Kodak 2D 8x10's. Both were basket cases. The reason for the maple monorail strut is to support the heavy lenses. Without it there is no chance the rails on the 2D could support the weight. (my 300mm Metrogon weighs 6 pounds). The strut contacts both extension rails at each end. The round shape under the bellows is what prevents sag, - it's a loose piece. The 2D tripod block is mortised permanently into the strut. The back is 100% new construction. The underside view shows how I used two sets of movement hardware to replicate the original 2D movements. In operation, the strut with tripod block is mounted on the tripod. The camera is slid into the tripod and camera unfolded. Not shown is a ground glass protector that attaches to the back.

John

[PolarBear1973]

Wanted a super wide angle and didn't feel like buying a lens, so I used my 90mm and built a 5x7 around it (w bag bellows):

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/DSC_0571.jpg

Here's the shot from this morning:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/KipsWideAngle.jpg

Caltar 90mm, f/32, 4 seconds. Front tilt

[Michael E]

Wanted a super wide angle and didn't feel like buying a lens, so I used my 90mm and built a 5x7 around it (w bag bellows):

You might want to reinforce the base board, it will bend with time/moisture/sun/whatever.

Michael

[Sart_S]

My 4x5(6x12) Homemade Pinhole camera.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FZUN4bIpqfQ/Tezpoisn-wI/AAAAAAAAALE/RIaJgK8XAKI/s576/1Z.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FhKX69AILOk/Tezps0WGy3I/AAAAAAAAALI/FcDlnNH9ll0/s720/5Z.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5CscDYva2iE/TezpxY1yB7I/AAAAAAAAALM/qC_shCKDOyA/s576/11_Z.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n0Z47GlpZEs/Tezp0M29VII/AAAAAAAAALQ/Y5MQYUuggms/s640/14_Z.jpg

[Steve Smith]

That is nice. I like the simplicity of your film holder clamps. I might steal that idea!

Have you got springs behind them so they move out when the screw is loosened?


Steve.

[Sart_S]

That is nice. I like the simplicity of your film holder clamps. I might steal that idea!


Steve.

Thanks Steve!:)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dRjCif9qT2k/Tezx1XGSQ1I/AAAAAAAAALU/Q1Med8PdWa0/s640/3Z.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Qczqj11V6mI/TezzBEBAS9I/AAAAAAAAALY/asSGTfq5Q2Q/s640/1_zf.jpg

[briand]

That"s a really nice simple camera looks Great.
good work
Cheers Brian

[Steve Smith]

Ah. Leaf springs! I was thinking of a cylindrical compression spring around the screw thread but your idea is better as the clamps will come away parallel as you undo the screws.

One more question: Where did the viewfinder come from?


Steve.

[IanG]

The Gaoersi viewfinders are like that Steve.

Ian

[Steve Smith]

Is that a variable focal length viewfinder? i.e. does it zoom? or does it just change the mask?

Anyway, I'm just off to put a piece of oak on our CNC machine to make the proper back for my 6x12 camera! Pictures later.


Steve.

[IanG]

Just changes the mask Steve.

Ian

[Steve Smith]

Just add glue, clamps and a screwdriver to make a new back.


Steve.

[Sart_S]

Ah. Leaf springs! I was thinking of a cylindrical compression spring around the screw thread but your idea is better as the clamps will come away parallel as you undo the screws.

One more question: Where did the viewfinder come from?


Steve.

The viewfinder is on sale on eBay-"Made in China".:)
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Zoom-Viewfinder-4x5-6x12-6x17-Large-Format-Camera-/270582159498?pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item3efff4188a

[Sart_S]

Just add glue, clamps and a screwdriver to make a new back.


Steve.

Very interesting!

[Steve M Hostetter]

Thanks Steve!:)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dRjCif9qT2k/Tezx1XGSQ1I/AAAAAAAAALU/Q1Med8PdWa0/s640/3Z.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Qczqj11V6mI/TezzBEBAS9I/AAAAAAAAALY/asSGTfq5Q2Q/s640/1_zf.jpg

Hello Sert,,,

I love it! You may find out that you'll get better connection of tripod to your plate by countersinking it to be exactly flush.. They tend to wobble a bit otherwise
Great design and material ( zebra)?

[Sart_S]

Hello Sert,,,

I love it! You may find out that you'll get better connection of tripod to your plate by countersinking it to be exactly flush.. They tend to wobble a bit otherwise
Great design and material ( zebra)?

Thanks Steve!
Yes,material-wood zebrano!

[Steve Smith]

My new back now glued together and with the pressure plate fitted. Finger joints to match those of the main body. Much better than the temporary plastic back I had.

I just need to add some brass catches to hold the back on and sort out the accessory shoe properly for mounting the viewfinder. I might try to make the viewfinder look a bit prettier as at the moment you can see that it is made from several layers of plastic.


Steve.

[Sart_S]

My new back now glued together and with the pressure plate fitted. Finger joints to match those of the main body. Much better than the temporary plastic back I had.

I just need to add some brass catches to hold the back on and sort out the accessory shoe properly for mounting the viewfinder. I might try to make the viewfinder look a bit prettier as at the moment you can see that it is made from several layers of plastic.


Steve.

Wonderful camera!

[Sart_S]

My Homemade 6x12 Pinhole camera.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LJhWFw97CCc/TfG5Ra_4jOI/AAAAAAAAALw/xF860OjmPck/s640/1Pf.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qvI5aAmWyBI/TfG5UVGwuFI/AAAAAAAAAL0/_MG_SrELHus/s640/2Pf.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q_nWFMOAA2g/TfG5XSn30rI/AAAAAAAAAL4/P7NwI8U1xM4/s640/3Pf.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JIhyP1UWyzQ/TbBMdozyFOI/AAAAAAAAADk/VzHGKBf0Xtw/s640/01_Bea.jpg

[jb7]

Great stuff all round-
all beautifully pout together-
I like that last result from the pinhole too, lovely tones-

[Steve Smith]

Nuce. Where did you get that double spirit level from? I was intending to put a recess in mine for a spirit level tube and the brass plate from an old Rabone wooden spirit level.... but I forgot to do it!


Steve.

[SMBooth]

Just add glue, clamps and a screwdriver to make a new back.


Steve.

Love the pressure plate but how do the spring attach to the back to stop it falling off?

[Sart_S]

Great stuff all round-
all beautifully pout together-
I like that last result from the pinhole too, lovely tones-

Thanks for the nice comments Joseph!

[Steve Smith]

Love the pressure plate but how do the spring attach to the back to stop it falling off?

The pressure plate has two leaf springs behind it from a Mamiya C33. I just copied the Mamiya design but stretched it to cover the larger film area.

When the back fits onto the body, it pushes the pressure plate back by about 1mm. In my initial tests I had rubber bands and gaffer tape holding it together. Today I am going to fit some catches to hold the back on.


Steve.

[PolarBear1973]

Got my hands on a longer lens (around 500mm) and decided to build a couple of cameras that it could be used in. The first is a 16x20:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/IMG-20110602-00008.jpg

Picture was taken with my cell phone while out taking a picture of a waterfall. The second is an 8x10 portrait camera:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/DSC_0677.jpg

Third, just for fun is a 4x5 telephoto. Totally made from scrap wood I had lying around from building other cameras.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/DSC_0641.jpg

In the 16x20, the lens is a gentle wide. In the 8x10, is it a telephoto. In the 4x5, a long telephoto. I had to make the bellows for each custom sized.

As for the 16x20, I had to make the filmholder as well. The 16x20 (minus the lens) cost me less than $100 to build. Here's a video detailing the filmholder, the camera back, and folding the bellows (made out of heavy construction paper and black contractor clean-up bags with lexel glue):

http://www.vimeo.com/24436548

[EdWorkman]

Great stuff here
NO FEAR
Now a question
Does the apparent glossiness of the contractor bag inside the bellows cause noticeable flare on the film?

[bobwysiwyg]

+1 on the "great stuff."

What lens is that on your 4x5 tele creation?

[jb7]

Good video- especially resourceful with the 16x20 picture frame dark slide-
from picture frame to picture frame...
ULF film holders are a problem, on many levels-

I've got to admit to having a slight problem with the camera-
and it's my own fault, I tend to fetishize these objects, and like to see them as beautiful objects in their own right. Magic happens there, and there should be a sense of awe about them.
I guess, coming from a generation that knows the meaning of the word, they should be awesome...

Apart from their scale, these ones are not, though they are undoubtedly inventive, and a certain pride seems to have been taken in making them anti-design objects- although they do appear as if they should be functional.

I suppose I'd find it difficult to do portraits on them; I think I might find it difficult to expect a sitter to take me, or the camera, seriously enough to take direction properly- particularly about keeping still, or in the same place, long enough to make an exposure- but again, that would be my problem, and I'm sure I'd find a way around it.

However, perhaps a coat of black paint, or a mahogany stain, might help allay some fears-

Still, it looks like a lot of fun, and I'm sure you're going to make some great pictures with it-

All the best-


joseph

[PolarBear1973]

Does the apparent glossiness of the contractor bag inside the bellows cause noticeable flare on the film?

I haven't noticed any, hence why I keep using them in making cameras. I have switched to Home Depot Husky brand bags (they are darker) and I always have at least 1" of wood painted black before the film plane.

[PolarBear1973]

What lens is that on your 4x5 tele creation?
It is a Calumet 20" in an Ilex #5 (huge) shutter.

[PolarBear1973]

I've got to admit to having a slight problem with the camera-
and it's my own fault, I tend to fetishize these objects, and like to see them as beautiful objects in their own right. Magic happens there, and there should be a sense of awe about them.
I guess, coming from a generation that knows the meaning of the word, they should be awesome...

Apart from their scale, these ones are not, though they are undoubtedly inventive, and a certain pride seems to have been taken in making them anti-design objects- although they do appear as if they should be functional.

I suppose I'd find it difficult to do portraits on them; I think I might find it difficult to expect a sitter to take me, or the camera, seriously enough to take direction properly- particularly about keeping still, or in the same place, long enough to make an exposure- but again, that would be my problem, and I'm sure I'd find a way around it.

However, perhaps a coat of black paint, or a mahogany stain, might help allay some fears-

Still, it looks like a lot of fun, and I'm sure you're going to make some great pictures with it-

All the best-


joseph

The 16x20 was kind of a rush job to see if I could get it to work before the Ilford ULF order closed for the year (which I think was three days ago).

When I got the long lens, I knew it would at least be useful for 8x10 portraits. When I found out that the image circle would be large enough for certain 16x20 pictures (but not quite at infinity), I decided to build the 16x20 just to see what a 16x20 contact print would look like. There is no way I'd spend the money for a 16x20 filmholder or 16x20 camera. I doubt I could even find one used. there was an 11x14 filmholder on ebay last week going for $500. Even now having used the camera and wrestling with the small depth of field, I don't think I'd invest much more into the project.

The good thing is, if someone wanted to flirt with ULF to see it was a good fit for them, they could build a camera like mine and not be out too much money if they decided it wasn't for them. The lens they bought could easily be used in smaller formats.

Part of me wanted to build the camera just to see if the picture frame filmholder would work.

Surprisingly, after replacing the glass with black cardboard, the picture frame filmholder is really easy to load.

I see your point about how these cameras should be beautiful objects. I pulled out a bottle of polyurethane and had plans to finish the camera. But everytime I get a little bit of free time, I'd rather go out shooting instead of finishing.

[EdWorkman]

Thanks for your reply re plastic bags.
I very much admire your spirit to make it work easily and quickly, particularly the filmholder. If/when you tire of making pictures you can spend all your time on craftsmanship. Get a spraycan of black and let it happen- faster than a bottle :>)

[BetterSense]

Thanks so much for the videos on making the garbage-bag bellows. Where do you get Lexel glue and what kind of glue is it?

[PolarBear1973]

Thanks so much for the videos on making the garbage-bag bellows. Where do you get Lexel glue and what kind of glue is it?

Amazon has it:

http://www.amazon.com/Sashco-13013-5oz-Sealants-Adhesive/dp/B0012DIUYW

For a 4x5 bellows for a 150mm lens, I'll use about one of these. For an 8x10 for a 300mm lens, I'll use two or two and a quarter. The tube says it is a silicone alternative.

When I was trying to find something that would stick to a garbage bag, it was the first glue (of about 3) that actually worked. I usually glue the bellows in the garage with the window open. I cut the tube to the first notch closest to the tip with wire cutters. This seems to work well.

Enjoy

[Scott --]

The latest revival of my 4x5 fixed-focus hyperfocal camera, based on Sandeha Lynch's design, the Neretta:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3233/5866328009_21b573a8b8_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/scott--/5866328009/)
Neretta Mk II, rev 03... (http://www.flickr.com/photos/scott--/5866328009/) by Scott -- (http://www.flickr.com/people/scott--/), on Flickr

Graflok back, Linhof-select 90/6.8 Angulon on the front. Grafmatic-ready.

[PolarBear1973]

Shot the 16x20 with Efke 25 this weekend. Made a short video about shooting the camera:

http://www.vimeo.com/25990755

Tried to take a picture of the 16x20 contact print, but got some glare from the flash/umbrella:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/HewittFalls16x20.jpg

I think I dodged a little bit too much in the lower right corner.

All in all, the camera worked great. Now to work up a better looking design.

[jon.oman]

A nice result from your DIY 16x20 camera!

[Scott --]

Where the hell do you get 16x20 Efke 25?! Impressive - loved the video.

[PolarBear1973]

Where the hell do you get 16x20 Efke 25?! Impressive - loved the video.

Thanks!

I ordered the Efke 25 16x20 from B&H. Here's the Link:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/748431-REG/Efke_14916_16_x_20_Black.html

They say that it ships in 6-10 weeks. I ordered it on their website and it was at my door in two weeks.

[Scott --]

Wow - I'd never have guessed.

Excellent work with that beast.

[Steve M Hostetter]

excellent Polarbear! Mind blowing detail!

[Steve Smith]

Today I tidied up the viewfinder with a bit of waste water pipe and a few pieces cut on the CNC router. I think this might be the point at which I declare it finished!


Steve.

[Scott --]

Today I tidied up the viewfinder with a bit of waste water pipe and a few pieces cut on the CNC router. I think this might be the point at which I declare it finished!


Steve.
Beautiful! What I wouldn't give for access to a CNC... ;)

[Sart_S]

Today I tidied up the viewfinder with a bit of waste water pipe and a few pieces cut on the CNC router. I think this might be the point at which I declare it finished!


Steve.

Fine result! I congratulate!:)

[gilhoy]

I'd finished building this camera in January of this year, but just stumbled on this group as I was searching the net for ideas on how to go about building a smaller version. Just thought I'd share, as I've just finished going through the entire thread, and I've seen some really great cameras!

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5284/5331488310_5ce28d41f8_z.jpg

Kodak Ektar 100mm f6.5
Front standard and bellows from medium format Century Graphic

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5331486312_fbeeef8d58_z.jpg

Da Yi 6X12 film back

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5164/5331485186_03f52b7f21_z.jpg

I ordered the ground glass from a vendor on ebay, who was very accomodating about the odd size, and also did the work and shipped out very quickly!

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5355286003_aa540f8a5e_b.jpg

This is the first good shot I'd gotten from it. I'd quickly moved on to other projects and neglected the camera since, but I think I'm going to take it out this week and shoot a couple of rolls.

Moving forward for the next camera, what I want to do is take the 6x12 insert from the 4x5 holder, and custom build a holder for it, so that the camera can be a lot shorter. I'm also considering going fixed focus, but I'm unsure of that part. I'm going to have to do some real testing to see if I think it's feasible for me. I'm also looking to get a hold of a 90mm or preferably a 65mm lens for much more wide angle than I currently have.

[Carsten Wolff]

First pics of and with my "Scheimpflug enabled" 5x7" (2 exp) or 6x17cm (4exp) underwater p&s LF camera. http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286092/http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286092/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286498/http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286498/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286336/http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286336/
The first two are a bit dark and mysterious, but it was late in the day and the only flash I had with me ended up on that camera :)

[cdholden]

First pics of and with my "Scheimpflug enabled" 5x7" (2 exp) or 6x17cm (4exp) underwater p&s LF camera. http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286092/http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286092/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286498/http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286498/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286336/http://www.flickr.com/photos/37082363@N08/6116286336/
The first two are a bit dark and mysterious, but it was late in the day and the only flash I had with me ended up on that camera :)

I think my heart skipped a beat! Could you please post some detailed photos of this (on land)? I wanted to do something like this when I was in Florida and still doing a lot of diving (before I moved inland) but always feared corrosion by salt water. Also, what tripod head and legs are you using?

Chris

[Carsten Wolff]

Ok, shall do one of these days :), Chris, although I'm writing an article on this which I'm going to submit to a well known LF magazine shortly.
I cut down an old Benbo Trekker so it would fit in the same box as the camera. No head, just a Manfrotto quick-release modified for marine use. The thing weighs ~15kg on land, so NOT airline friendly, I can tell you.

[cdholden]

I'm writing an article on this which I'm going to submit to a well known LF magazine shortly.

If/when it gets published, please announce it here. I would be interested in buying that issue.
Thanks!
Chris

[Carsten Wolff]

Will do. Thanks. Sorry for teasing you.

[tilberien]

My first 8x10 homemade - http://tilberien.rajce.idnes.cz/8x10/#

[Jay DeFehr]

tilberien,

Very nice work! Looks like a capable outfit.

[tilberien]

tilberien,

Very nice work! Looks like a capable outfit.
Thanx.

[jon.oman]

I agree, nice job!

[SamReeves]

My first 8x10 homemade - http://tilberien.rajce.idnes.cz/8x10/#

That is one cool looking camera!! :)

[Andrew Plume]

My first 8x10 homemade - http://tilberien.rajce.idnes.cz/8x10/#


that's a cracking piece of work, well done you :)

andrew

[tilberien]

thanx all, :)

[jb7]

Very good- good luck with it, hope you get good use out of it-

Shamonix?

[tilberien]

Very good- good luck with it, hope you get good use out of it-

Shamonix?

Thanx, yes, Chamonix 8x10 was my very big inspiration.

[GPS]

Thanx, yes, Chamonix 8x10 was my very big inspiration.

I usually avoid to comment on cameras in this thread. But yours - because of its exceptionally technically incorrect construction - deserves it.
You constructed the camera so that the heaviest standard has the smallest mechanical support and the smallest standard the greatest support. What is more, the construction doesn't allow to keep the standards parallel when moving the back standard. In doing so you failed to use common constructional sense and created a technical parody.

[Louis Pacilla]

I usually avoid to comment on cameras in this thread. But yours - because of its exceptionally technically incorrect construction - deserves it.
You constructed the camera so that the heaviest standard has the smallest mechanical support and the smallest standard the greatest support. What is more, the construction doesn't allow to keep the standards parallel when moving the back standard. In doing so you failed to use common constructional sense and created a technical parody.

BDH GPS

[tilberien]

I usually avoid to comment on cameras in this thread. But yours - because of its exceptionally technically incorrect construction - deserves it.
You constructed the camera so that the heaviest standard has the smallest mechanical support and the smallest standard the greatest support. What is more, the construction doesn't allow to keep the standards parallel when moving the back standard. In doing so you failed to use common constructional sense and created a technical parody.
Thank you for your comment. I'm sorry, but I don't understand, what you mean. My idea was use moving of rear standard for gross focus and use front standard for accurate focus. Though moving rear standard is still in same angle, as front.
I hope, my pictures are understandable. Please, explain me, what do you mean.

Sorry for my english.

[GPS]

...
My idea was use moving of rear standard for gross focus and use front standard for accurate focus. Though moving rear standard is still in same angle, as front.
I hope, my pictures are understandable. Please, explain me, what do you mean.

Sorry for my english.

Yes, I understand your idea. But while focusing the back standard you allow it to wiggle (introducing back swings) around the tightening screws. There is no leading edge that would keep the standard parallel. Add to it the illogical support dimensions already mentioned and there you have it - an idea what to correct on your next construction. :)

[GPS]

Looking more at your pictures I think it would be possible to add (on the bed) two leading edges along the back standard support to assure (somehow) the plan parallelism of the standards. Just make them precise, not adding any swing to the standard. Good luck.

[GPS]

Looking more at your pictures I think it would be possible to add (on the bed) two leading edges along the back standard support to assure (somehow) the plan parallelism of the standards. Just make them precise, not adding any swing to the standard. Good luck.

And instead of making them of wood why not attaching there aluminum angles (protrusions) along each side. They would be even lighter than wooden edges, more elegant and of smaller overall dimension.

[tilberien]

Looking more at your pictures I think it would be possible to add (on the bed) two leading edges along the back standard support to assure (somehow) the plan parallelism of the standards. Just make them precise, not adding any swing to the standard. Good luck.
Now I understand, what you mean. Swing of rear standard was planned. Upgrade or change is possible, but future experience will show if is it necessary.
This is my 3rd attempt of homemade VF. Ordinary I'm using my monorail 4x5 Omega 45D. But monorail is difficult to moving to outdoor and 8x10 is ideal format for contacting and oilprint.
This weekend will my first trip with 8x10 and next week I will to know, if this idea is usable for me or if is necessary some upgrade.
In any case, thank you for your comments.

[GPS]

Unfortunately, I don't think you understood my point about the wiggling but never mind - I'm happy that multiple attempts in constructing a camera is a known practice to you. Who knows, maybe later you will understand. Good luck.

[Nikola Dulgiarov]

http://nickdul.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/fb3.jpg
This is my DIY 8x10 monorail large format camera
oak and cherry and very heavy, yet I often take it outdoors

[Andrey Donchev]

Евала пич!

[Nikola Dulgiarov]

10х, Tук е със ал. статив за проба, иначе си има и Diy дървен такъв.

[andreios]

Tilberien, I think I got GPS's point - the same idea occurred to me when looking at the photos, I'll try to explain when we meet.

[GPS]

Thanks, tell him that 2 aluminum angles along the back standard bed would do nice service.

[tilberien]

Thanks, tell him that 2 aluminum angles along the back standard bed would do nice service.
Thank you for help.

( holt jsem někdy tupej, rád si to nechám vysvětlit)

[Brian C. Miller]

This is my DIY 8x10 monorail large format camera
oak and cherry and very heavy, yet I often take it outdoors

Nice! There used to be a US camera kit make called Bender Photographic, and their design was similar to yours. Be sure to post some pictures! :)

[Nikola Dulgiarov]

I've posted several photos in the image-sharing section. BTW, I forgot to add that the film and plate holders are also DIY
http://nickdul.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/fb4.jpg
http://nickdul.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/fb.jpg
http://nickdul.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/scan-110813-0001rez.jpg?w=920
collodion plate taken with the camera

[GPS]

Thank you for help.

( holt jsem někdy tupej, rád si to nechám vysvětlit)

You're welcome!

(Inu, to se lehce stane, zvlaste v cizim jazyce)

[Steve M Hostetter]

Bring a pocket square with you on your trip to test the camera or make the scribes on the plywood bed ...! I think the back is square with the bed just by looking at the pics but the front standard needs some locater marks to make sure it's square with the bed and back! Other then that I say great effort!

regards
steve

[Scott Walker]

Very nice Nikola, given what you can accomplish as a 16 year old I think you will have a very rewarding future in photography or any other path you may choose. :)

[Nathan Appel]

4x5 dedicated instant film camera Xenotar 150mm. not pretty. but 100percent functional.

[Axon990]

Nikola, I like your moxie. I too am 16 and I'm building a 4x5 camera. I wish I had your skill and dedication. At the moment it's six or seven pieces of wood, not quite square, patiently awaiting a bellows and ground glass. Props to you for your master craftsmanship.

[Wolfgang AM]

Here is my 8x10 Wehman rebuild with extensive tilt and shift (except for the lens ;-)

[Wolfgang AM]

And here it is packed. The weight is 7 kg.

[Edward (Halifax,NS)]

8x10" P&S ,, maple, oak, and ebony

Steve, do you have plans for this camera?

Edward

[Steve M Hostetter]

Hello Edward,,,

I can make some for ya.. No charge

[Edward (Halifax,NS)]

Hello Edward,,,

I can make some for ya.. No charge

I would appreciate that very much.

[Sandeha]

Two I made over Xmas ...

Both are a conglom of old parts, details on the first one here ...
http://sandehalynch.wordpress.com/2011/12/

It looks like ...
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a119/Sandeha/neretta%20rail/IMGP4347a.jpg

Result ...
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a119/Sandeha/neretta%20rail/120104_era1_01.jpg

The second is specifically for funky style with either pinhole or a reversed single element lens, details here ...
http://sandehalynch.wordpress.com/2012/01/

It looks like ...
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a119/Sandeha/neretta%20micro/IMGP4396a.jpg

Result ...
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a119/Sandeha/third_floor_gallery/120113_neo4_07.jpg

[Steve Smith]

Two I made over Xmas ...

Both are a conglom of old parts, details on the first one here ...

Is that a Helios viefinder?


Steve.

[bojove]

I've posted photos of my homemade handheld 4X5(s) on Flickr.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bojove/ Each was made for my own use, and then new ideas would generate a design changes for more convenience. Initiating a new generation, there have been three so far. My main objective was to make a lightweight handheld 4x5. I was a Leica user for years, and want a large format camera that would bring me as close as possible to that usability. Equally important was design, strength, and reliability. The lenses that I used were Super Angulons 65mm, 75mm, and 90mm all in helical focusing mounts. I have been experimenting with a wider 47mm, but currently it seems a bit too wide for me. I do think I have finally arrived at a design that I am very pleased with. Hope You Enjoy, B~

[Sandeha]

Is that a Helios viefinder?


Steve.

They are fairly generic, I think. This one is marked Taron and came with some misty auxiliary lenses.

[Steven Scanner]

I love this thread. Lots of inspirational material here. I'm making a camera to. Actually it's a large format digital camera. Combining camera technology with a flatbed scanner.

more info here:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=84761

http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/stevenlangewouters/Steampunk/IMG_2989.jpg
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/stevenlangewouters/Steampunk/IMG_2988.jpg

[Steve Smith]

Steve, do you have plans for this camera?

Yes. He plans to take it out and use it! (sorry, couldn't resist).


Steve.

[Steven Scanner]

Flatbed scanner camera:
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/stevenlangewouters/Steampunk/IMG_3048.jpg
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/stevenlangewouters/Steampunk/IMG_3050.jpg

It's got a 8cm magnifying glass for lens, DIY mechanical iris, ground glass is a picture frame glass with a sheet of milky white paper on it. In it's crude form it works. Not picture perfect, but it's a start.

[Sart_S]

Flatbed scanner camera:
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/stevenlangewouters/Steampunk/IMG_3048.jpg
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/stevenlangewouters/Steampunk/IMG_3050.jpg

It's got a 8cm magnifying glass for lens, DIY mechanical iris, ground glass is a picture frame glass with a sheet of milky white paper on it. In it's crude form it works. Not picture perfect, but it's a start.

Fantastic!!!)

[Ari]

Flatbed scanner camera:
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/stevenlangewouters/Steampunk/IMG_3048.jpg
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/stevenlangewouters/Steampunk/IMG_3050.jpg

It's got a 8cm magnifying glass for lens, DIY mechanical iris, ground glass is a picture frame glass with a sheet of milky white paper on it. In it's crude form it works. Not picture perfect, but it's a start.

Looks pretty far out; the real question is what kind of photos does it take?
I'd love to see some.
Great work!

[Steven Scanner]

Looks pretty far out; the real question is what kind of photos does it take?
I'd love to see some.
Great work!

more info, WIP pictures and scan pictures here:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=84761&page=2

[Steven Scanner]

Camera finished (for now, untill I find the right technique with good access ingredients and chemicals)
I've got a DIY mechanical iris, but it's not acurate enough. I think I'm going to go for waterhouse aperture.
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/stevenlangewouters/Steampunk/IMG_3457.jpg
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/stevenlangewouters/Steampunk/IMG_3458.jpg

[MMELVIS]

Steven Scanner look forward to the shots from this camera

[kooyoungchung]

http://http://www.galerie-photo.com/chambre-legere-4x5.html

Hello

Any one speaks French?

I just want to know how the metalic (or plastic?) part which connects the lens to the body was made.

Thank you.

Koo Young

[Ari]

http://http://www.galerie-photo.com/chambre-legere-4x5.html

Hello

Any one speaks French?

I just want to know how the metalic (or plastic?) part which connects the lens to the body was made.

Thank you.

Koo Young

I'd help, but the link is dead.

[Peter Mounier]

I can't help with the op's question, but the link is dead because of the double http//
copy the link with only one instance of it and the page opens.
http://www.galerie-photo.com/chambre-legere-4x5.html

Peter

[Steve Smith]

It looks like the cone from the Polaroid camera was used rather than something being made for the purpose..


Steve.

[kooyoungchung]

Thank you,Peter and Steve.

[Enzo Dizono]

Wow, some stunning camera's in this thread. I recently bought a Linhof Kardan Super Color ST, mainly for the accessories, but i'm planning to use some parts for a DIY-project. After an evening of playing with Google Sketchup, i came up with this camera. The black part is the rotating back from the Linhof, the brown part is ofcourse wood. The lens is supposed to be something like a 75mm, the focus should be on infinity from f/11 onwards. There is some room for shifting the lens. Please, if anyone has some useful tips, i would love to hear. It would be my very first self-built camera =). I want to used mainly for landscapes during traveling, when my technika is to big and heavy and not flexible enough with shift + wide angle.

74397743987439974400

[jb7]

I can only comment on this from my own experience; the beauty of making something yourself is that it can be whatever you want it to be.

Taking your comment about the weight of the Technika-
the weight and bulk of this camera could be reduced by discarding the revolving back. I know it's tempting to have a precision component, including a ready made focusing screen, but this comes at a significant cost if the aim is weight reduction, and I assume, bulk reduction.

All that's needed to hold a holder is a recess, and some way to make sure it doesn't fall out. This is the strategy employed on Ben's proposed lightweight Wanderlust camera, and others. A focusing screen can be made to slide in the recess, if you need it. A lightweight camera can be tilted on a tripod head without any problem, so the benefit of a rotating back on a lightweight camera is marginal.

Many will say that focusing is unnecessary on a wide angle point and shoot, I suppose what they mean is that it's unnecessary for them, considering the pictures they plan to be able to make. A 75mm lens might be short for 4x5, but not being able to focus it will impose limits on how close you can get to a foreground. Again, it's down to the pictures you plan to make, but there might come a time when you'd like to get within two feet of something, without needing to achieve infinity focus. That picture might not be available to you.

You might want to build in some method of ensuring the parallelism of the lens, of being able to fine tune the lens to be axial to the film. Shorter lenses have smaller depth of focus, and very slight tilts can be very noticeable. It's possible that making a two part lens board might be better than relying on your sliding board to be parallel to begin with- by being able to shim the front board in relation to the sliding board. It might also help with fine tuning your focus, whether you opt for hyperfocal or infinity.

I see you have a handle attached- I don't know whether you plan on shooting hand held, or whether it's for carrying it about. Some sort of strap might be another option, since it doesn't take up as much space, and can be folded into the camera for packing. Although I have shot handheld, the larger super wide cameras benefit from being used on a tripod, the same as any other camera. Especially with fixed focus, you're not likely to be shooting street, and you will probably be stopping down quite a bit.

Good luck with your camera, like I said, it's your camera, so it can be whatever you want it to be-

[Nana Sousa Dias]

I can only comment on this from my own experience; the beauty of making something yourself is that it can be whatever you want it to be.

Taking your comment about the weight of the Technika-
the weight and bulk of this camera could be reduced by discarding the revolving back. I know it's tempting to have a precision component, including a ready made focusing screen, but this comes at a significant cost if the aim is weight reduction, and I assume, bulk reduction.

All that's needed to hold a holder is a recess, and some way to make sure it doesn't fall out. This is the strategy employed on Ben's proposed lightweight Wanderlust camera, and others. A focusing screen can be made to slide in the recess, if you need it. A lightweight camera can be tilted on a tripod head without any problem, so the benefit of a rotating back on a lightweight camera is marginal.

Many will say that focusing is unnecessary on a wide angle point and shoot, I suppose what they mean is that it's unnecessary for them, considering the pictures they plan to be able to make. A 75mm lens might be short for 4x5, but not being able to focus it will impose limits on how close you can get to a foreground. Again, it's down to the pictures you plan to make, but there might come a time when you'd like to get within two feet of something, without needing to achieve infinity focus. That picture might not be available to you.

You might want to build in some method of ensuring the parallelism of the lens, of being able to fine tune the lens to be axial to the film. Shorter lenses have smaller depth of focus, and very slight tilts can be very noticeable. It's possible that making a two part lens board might be better than relying on your sliding board to be parallel to begin with- by being able to shim the front board in relation to the sliding board. It might also help with fine tuning your focus, whether you opt for hyperfocal or infinity.

I see you have a handle attached- I don't know whether you plan on shooting hand held, or whether it's for carrying it about. Some sort of strap might be another option, since it doesn't take up as much space, and can be folded into the camera for packing. Although I have shot handheld, the larger super wide cameras benefit from being used on a tripod, the same as any other camera. Especially with fixed focus, you're not likely to be shooting street, and you will probably be stopping down quite a bit.

Good luck with your camera, like I said, it's your camera, so it can be whatever you want it to be-


My homemade camera is fixed focus, but the lens is a 47mm XL, so, it works fine, the lens has great DOF. I'm designing a new camera, for a SA 65mm but I'm having a lot of hard time trying to find a cheap way of doing a focusing system for it, do you have any ideas? Thanks.

[jb7]

Yes, I do actually-

I'll be revisiting the first version of my camera, and making a focusing system that will also allow some tilt and swing. It relies on a lens board that's sprung off the body, which is adjusted by thumbscrews. It'll be better looking, and better engineered than the one in this picture-

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3644/3515430891_1caa6a09e6.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joseph-jb7/3515430891/)
Plank 1.0 Polaroid 550 jb75470 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joseph-jb7/3515430891/) by joseph - jb7 (http://www.flickr.com/people/joseph-jb7/), on Flickr


In use, and for the kind of pictures that you might be making, you might zero the focusing to a preset distance, then tune one or more screws to achieve the tilt you need. It's more fiddly than a helical, but the addition of controllable tilt and swing makes up for that.

Hope you add some pictures to the Pointed and Shot thread that I started, I'm running out of recent pictures...

While I'm here, I might as well add the latest version to this thread, keep it up to date-


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8142/7252547558_837a07c00f_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joseph-jb7/7252547558/)

[Nana Sousa Dias]

[QUOTE=jb7;893115]Yes, I do actually-

I'll be revisiting the first version of my camera, and making a focusing system that will also allow some tilt and swing. It relies on a lens board that's sprung off the body, which is adjusted by thumbscrews. It'll be better looking, and better engineered than the one in this picture-



In use, and for the kind of pictures that you might be making, you might zero the focusing to a preset distance, then tune one or more screws to achieve the tilt you need. It's more fiddly than a helical, but the addition of controllable tilt and swing makes up for that.

Hope you add some pictures to the Pointed and Shot thread that I started, I'm running out of recent pictures...

While I'm here, I might as well add the latest version to this thread, keep it up to date-


Joseph, can you show me the link for your thread?

I thought about making something like that you described, but, in the back, instead of the lens, due to very short coverage of the SA 65/8. Maybe I'll do it in the lens but just for focusing purposes.

[jb7]

It's withering away over here-

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?91197-Pointed-and-Shot

Of course, as soon as you start posting, then I'll have to stop, or up my game...

[Steve Smith]

I'm designing a new camera, for a SA 65mm but I'm having a lot of hard time trying to find a cheap way of doing a focusing system for it, do you have any ideas? Thanks.

Look at my 6x12 link below.


Steve.

[gilhoy]

http://gilhoy.com/iphone/picture105.jpg

http://gilhoy.com/iphone/picture104.jpg

Proof-of-concept-ing fixed focus 90mm from spare Toyo standards. The recent discussions here have inspired me to add the phone-as-viewfinder.

[Nana Sousa Dias]

Look at my 6x12 link below.


Steve.

Hi, Steve

Did you forgot the link? I can't see it...

[Nana Sousa Dias]

Never mind, it, Steve, I found it...

Very well done, this camera of yours. The Olympus barrel was a clever move, as well as the viewfinder...

[yzfreedom]

My very simple 8x10 field camera

74564

74565

74566

74567

3.2kg with lens and back

[bobwysiwyg]

YZ, perhaps simple, but it looks quite functional. Have you any images taken with it you can post? I'd love to see them.

[yzfreedom]

I just finish it yesterday, here is a first test image

74610

It has a light lick at the corner but fixed now.
Thanks!

[mdm]

Looks good to me.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Really nice looking camera. Looks like a bit of a light leak in one of the corners. Perhaps the holder isn't seating quite right?

[yzfreedom]

Exactly problem of light leak were at the nut to control focus. Lovely! I did it for next 3 month travel.

[zenny]

Made a rail camera out of stuff mostly in the garage:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/IMG_6262.jpg

It has rise/fall, swing, tilt, etc...

Here's the camera set up for a shot this morning to test it out:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/IMG_6265.jpg

Here's the shot:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/PolarBear1973/ApplesOranges.jpg

Here's a video of me making the camera step by step:

http://www.vimeo.com/22496565

It took me about 4 hours total time and cost very little

Impressive! But there must be decades of passion to develop this skill to create something in 4 hours! ;-)

Well done Brian!

Cheers!
/zenny

[jb7]

74565

74564





Interesting looking camera, quite bold. I like the apparent simplicity, though the focusing looks quite finely put together-

What are the blocks attached to the back? They look like they could be feet for shooting straight up?


Polarbear, there's a huge need for a lf camera that can be put together in four hours. I think you're onto something big here, though I think the detailing could be improved. Better and bigger knobs would make a big improvement, and although the camera looks quite chunky, I like the proportions. Saying that, perhaps the verticals don't need to be so thick...

Only today, I was asked about a lightweight basic DIY 8x10 for trekking in the Himilaya- and something like this could be very suitable- and you could probably put the 8x10 back together in only a couple of hours...

Rise, fall, tilt,swing ... Focus? Good job, looks great-

[zenny]

My very simple 8x10 field camera

74564

74565

74566

74567

3.2kg with lens and back

Thanks yzfreedom for sharing!

Sounds like a great box camera of 8x10 dimension. Love to see some output pictures!
By the way could you explain a bit about the making and the technical components of your camera like Brian (PolarBear1973) did. It would be nice to know.

One thing maybe I missed is the rail, or is it only me? ;-)

/zenny

[yzfreedom]

Thank you all for interested in my camera! I'm sorry because my English quite limit but I will try to explain about idea and processing. First I think I want to make a 8x10 lightweight camera for my long trip 3 month in Australia with my family. That is the big country with huge landscape so that it will be a field camera. I thought that a box camera with a little movement to focus is the best choice. Let take a look around and find something useful??? Finaly I found one- it's a part of an failed enlarger, to make the lens move to focus- that's the Key.
Here's inside the camera when finished:

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Movement (focus):

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Some other:
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the black knob were for fixed when focused

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7085/7378114034_a29f83fa44_b.jpg

I build this camera base on a back of my 8x10 Afga - one for both - Its will have the images were taken from this, maybe I will up on tonight.
Thanks more!!!
It's better if I take photo of all step in process but I was quite busy, so these all I have :D

[Steve Smith]

I like your focus mechanism. On my first camera, I used the mechanism from a set of 35mm macro bellows.


Steve.

[yzfreedom]

Thanks Steve Smith!
Here 2 images take for test:

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[Wojtekred]

Here goes mine:

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It's a double extension camera,bellows are home made.
I haven't got any recent pictures with proper ground glass and slightly readjusted back,also I made all the aluminium parts from brass now(not fitted yet,except for knobs).
If I have some free time in next few months I'm going to try and build a monorail,which should be a lot easier than field.

[Mealha]

First and second generation. Built around a 4x5 Linhof back.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/MMEALHA/DSCF0217.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/MMEALHA/DSCF0224.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/MMEALHA/4x5-dta-1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/MMEALHA/4x5-tras.jpg

[jon.oman]

First and second generation. Built around a 4x5 Linhof back.



Now, these are really cool! Great craftsmenship.....

[Nana Sousa Dias]

Eheheheh...bem esgalhado, Miguel...qual é a lente?
Cortaste a caixa da Linhof e forraste-a com madeira?

[Steve Smith]

First and second generation. Built around a 4x5 Linhof back.

Excellent. I'm going to make something similar for 5x4 using the lens and focus mechanism from my 6x12 camera (link below).


Steve.

[Mealha]

[QUOTE=Nana Sousa Dias;904498]Eheheheh...bem esgalhado, Miguel...qual é a lente?
Cortaste a caixa da Linhof e forraste-a com madeira?[/QUOTE

A segunda sim, é forrada, mantive os movimentos originais. A primeira não tinha movimentos e era toda de madeira.
Numa está a rodenstock 75mm que já não tenho, noutra uma rodenstock 65mm.

[Mealha]

Excellent. I'm going to make something similar for 5x4 using the lens and focus mechanism from my 6x12 camera (link below).


Steve.

I made a 6x17 for a friend with the front of this Linhof. It's not a good looking camera but it's versatile. It can focus and use more than one lens.

[Shootar401]

[QUOTE=Nana Sousa Dias;439823]Here are some of the most perfect home made cameras I've ever seen.
Part 1

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/5571/00o7in41212984tz0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Can someone tell me more about this camera? I have the same rear standard and this would be a perfect camera to base my build off of. What kind of lens is this?

[Nana Sousa Dias]

[QUOTE=Nana Sousa Dias;439823]Here are some of the most perfect home made cameras I've ever seen.
Part 1

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/5571/00o7in41212984tz0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Can someone tell me more about this camera? I have the same rear standard and this would be a perfect camera to base my build off of. What kind of lens is this?

I believe it's a 65mm...

[Shootar401]

[QUOTE=Shootar401;908708]

I believe it's a 65mm...

Thanks! pardon my lack of knowledge but what kind of lens board is on here, and the ring with the numbers behind the lens?

[Nana Sousa Dias]

[QUOTE=Nana Sousa Dias;908734]

Thanks! pardon my lack of knowledge but what kind of lens board is on here, and the ring with the numbers behind the lens?

The lensboard is a Linhof type, fixed to a Cambo special lensboard, to adapt Linhof lensboards. Many 5x7 and bigger formats use that kind of lensboards, so that you can use lens mounted to Linhof lensboards without the need to disasemble the lenses from the lensboards.

The ring is a helicoidal focusing ring.

[jan staller]

770227702377024

I had used both versions of the Cambo wide for decades, with the longest lens being 90mm. Eventually I wanted to use the 150mm lens on the Cambo Wide DS . Soon, I saw the need for a slight tilt capability. I designed and fabricated this assembly using a lens board for the 58mm Lens and making a hinged panel with adjustment screws and a small bellows. The hinge was scavenged from a Polaroid camera. It was a great modification giving me much greater focus control. I've since acquired a fold up 4x5 and make a lot of use of longer lenses and the Cambo seems to be neglected these days.

[c.sharpe.7]

I know I'm behind the times - looking at the last thread dates but anyway, here's my own 5x4 monster, made of aluminium with a few stainless steel bits.77045

[Mealha]

I like it. All metal.


I know I'm behind the times - looking at the last thread dates but anyway, here's my own 5x4 monster, made of aluminium with a few stainless steel bits.77045

[werra]

Slapped a 5x12in point and shoot together from the foamcore. Basic design is the same as 5x7, made last year. Need to find a way to fix thin aerographic film properly in the holder.

798787987979880

First somewhat successful test:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8454/7927322534_df69834a26_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/werra/7927322534/in/photostream)

[C. D. Keth]

That's pretty cool, Werra. I bet you'll make a lot of good photos with that nice simple setup. It's a lot like a 4x10 camera I made several years ago in school. It was constructed a lot like yours. It had a very wide lens, though, and had a curved back made of laminated poster board. It included rails that the film would slide under. The camera was a "single shot" and had to be loaded in a darkroom before going out.

[jodyake]

i just made my first 4x5 camera80763

[MMELVIS]

i just made my first 4x5 camera80763
Nice work, where do you load the film?

[jodyake]

the trap door on top opens and there is a slot for the film holder

[gtmatias]

Boa noite.
Hello, I just finished a 4x5 pinhole and I would like (if possible) to have a tip about where I could find a flash Hot shoe so that I could install a leveling bubble. Did you use the "universal" one? What metric screw fits?

Really expert camera you have there!

[architorture]

I bought one of these for my camera project:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/515367-REG/Bracket1_VISLCS1_Cold_Shoe_1.html

haven't actually installed it yet...
but it is the perfect item I'd say.

[SMBooth]

Like these
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/iShoot-Metal-Flash-Hot-Shoe-Mount-Adapter-fr-Canon-Nikon-Sigma-Nissin-Speedlight-/110877316972?pt=AU_Cameras_Photographic_Accessories&hash=item19d0cd976c

[gtmatias]

Hello There! That's just what I'm look for, architorture!

[Nana Sousa Dias]

Hello There! That's just what I'm look for, architorture!

Matias, tem destas coisas à venda aqui em Portugal...

http://niobo.pt/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=63_67&products_id=5329

http://niobo.pt/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=63_67&products_id=4050

[loshihyen]

here some thing nice i see

could you name these parts for me?
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=22756&d=1234664765

I thinks these parts are the best parts for my idea
Thanks

[IanG]

Lens on a coned lens board gives a bit of extra extension, an adjustable roll film back 6x9/6x12, a rotaing Graflok type back and I'm not sure but part of a back.

Ian

[loshihyen]

could you share the CAD file of these parts?
Or you manually milled it?

anyway, it deserve very big hands!


Hi all :D
I have nearly finished my last 4x5 wide, all the machining is now done, some of the components are finished, it should all be up and running in about a week.
Its been great fun and at times a challenge. there are some great,
cameras here, good luck to every one having a go. will post some pics when its all done. :)

[Denis Pleic]

My first completely "homemade" camera: it's a pinhole, and you'll probably recognize the origins of the design :)
The brass screws were made by a machinist friend, everything else was done in my workshop (i.e. garage)...

[alpenhause]

I routinely fit 47mm to 75mm lenses to a Polaroid J-66 body, just send me a lens and a Chinese focusing Helicoid found on ebay for about $100

Custom Fabricated to your desire by AKW
This is a 4x5 format Super Wide with estimated type focus, All your 4x5 holders work

Http://Alpenhause.com

[sjirka]

Some pictures of my recently finished camera. Copy of chaminix 45. I´ve decided I could try shooting LF and because I rather spend time than money I've decidet to bulid it myself :)

8967689677

[IanG]

Some pictures of my recently finished camera. Copy of chaminix 45. I´ve decided I could try shooting LF and because I rather spend time than money I've decidet to bulid it myself :)

8967689677

Very nice.

Ian

[Steve Smith]

Very nice.

Agreed. A nice simple design which should work well.


Steve.

[Nana Sousa Dias]

Some pictures of my recently finished camera. Copy of chaminix 45. I´ve decided I could try shooting LF and because I rather spend time than money I've decidet to bulid it myself :)

8967689677

Did you find those alluminum parts for sale or did you copied all those parts? They seem exactly like those parts of a Chamonix camera....how have you done that?

[sjirka]

Did you find those alluminum parts for sale or did you copied all those parts? They seem exactly like those parts of a Chamonix camera....how have you done that?

I made all the aluminium parts from aluminium scraps from scrapyard. First I made a 3d model in PC. I used pictures from google as a reference and I estimated the dimensions from technical specifications on Chamonix website. I used quite basic tools to actualy make these parts + anodized the parts at home (it turned out to be easy process). It's quite simple construction, that's why I chose Chamonix.

[Steve Smith]

I'm in two minds about the central leadscrew focusing. As a CNC machinist and lathe operator, I like the idea and having the focusing control directly under the ground glass makes a lot of sense - but the traditionalist in me likes a focusing rack with the adjustment on the side.


Steve.

[vinny]

Sjirka,
That's awesome!
There are some very talented people here, can't wait to see Whta you do with it. I've been considering building something similar. Where'd you find the lead screw parts?

[sjirka]

I'm in two minds about the central leadscrew focusing. As a CNC machinist and lathe operator, I like the idea and having the focusing control directly under the ground glass makes a lot of sense - but the traditionalist in me likes a focusing rack with the adjustment on the side.

I like focusing racks, but they're so expensive : / I did some research about rack price in Czech Republic before i started this project and I built this whole camera for the cost of one rack (and I'd need 4).

[sjirka]

Sjirka,
That's awesome!
There are some very talented people here, can't wait to see Whta you do with it. I've been considering building something similar. Where'd you find the lead screw parts?

My father's friend is a lathe operator, so he made the screw from brass for me. I casted the nut from epoxy resin which is used for repairing bearings (I found this idea on a CNC forum). And the aluminium focusing nut is from some machine for cutting meat (from scrapyard).

[andreios]

"Zlaté české ručičky".. :) ("golden czech hands" -as a saying says round these parts... :) ) Jirko, you have done really a great job - I wish I had the skills and tools to make such a camera..

[Nana Sousa Dias]

I made all the aluminium parts from aluminium scraps from scrapyard. First I made a 3d model in PC. I used pictures from google as a reference and I estimated the dimensions from technical specifications on Chamonix website. I used quite basic tools to actualy make these parts + anodized the parts at home (it turned out to be easy process). It's quite simple construction, that's why I chose Chamonix.

My congratulations, you did a terrific job! I wish I had the tools and skills to make parts like that...I would like to build a 8x10 camera using that design. I can easilly build the wooden parts but the aluminum parts, I don't have the minimum clue how to do it. Those tools you mention are really basic???

[sjirka]

My congratulations, you did a terrific job! I wish I had the tools and skills to make parts like that...I would like to build a 8x10 camera using that design. I can easilly build the wooden parts but the aluminum parts, I don't have the minimum clue how to do it. Those tools you mention are really basic???

Drill stand, metal saw, files and sandpaper + screw taps (I used M5 and M3). It takes some time but it can be done with these. You can also have the parts cut on water jet or laser (I recommend that for anything thicker than 5mm).

8975489755

[Steve Smith]

Or work somewhere which has a CNC router and get to know how to use it. At least, that was my method!


Steve.

[xfrench]

Okay, I apologize if this is broad, and or inappropriate, but it seems to me that someone on here will know more about this than me.
I am afraid I might want to build my own camera. I have fabrication skills and access to tools at work. I want to do what amounts to tabletop work, with small objects, indoors. Contact prints. (I have a Nuarc26-1K and a few 16x20 contact frames, as well as a process camera film holder which is essentially a glass sheet pressure fit).
I have been reading through forums, trying to triangulate multiple variables, getting overwhelmed. I just got Primitive Photography by Alan Greene. One problem is that it'd be easier to buy an 8x10) rather than build one and so I imagine a 16x20 or 20x24 camera, but now I am wondering if there are plans out there anywhere I can work with? Seems like most of you clever types have wung it, copying and improvising, which is good if you are good, nervous making if you are new. Any suggestions?
I understand about process lenses, a little less about very expensive lenses, and could consider one of Reihold's plastic meniscus ones (price is right).
Any directions to research would be appreciated. If there's a better place to post this, I would also be grateful for the advice.

[C. D. Keth]

If you want to do tabletop work, I would strongly dissuade you from building a camera and finding a good used sinar. For that type of work, you will want a monorail and you will want geared everything.

[IanG]

Drill stand, metal saw, files and sandpaper + screw taps (I used M5 and M3). It takes some time but it can be done with these. You can also have the parts cut on water jet or laser (I recommend that for anything thicker than 5mm).

8975489755

After seeing a brand new 14"x17" Deardorff Special on Monday I think you've done a better job. I was quite surpised at the relatively poor quality of the metal work (aluminium).

Ian

[LF_rookie_to_be]

Jirko, could you explain how you built the spring back in more detail? Can your design be applied to a 8x10" back, simply by changing the dimensions? Just devoured this fantastic thread, after a few nice items fell into my hands for cheap - a Fidelity 8x10" holder, a Klimsch Apo-Ronar 480/9 and a box of Astia 8x10" - figured might try to put those three to use... :)

[sjirka]

I think it could by applied to 8x10, but you would have to use higher stiffness spring than I did (putting the spring in in place was nightmare, I scratched my fingers raw, I can't imagine doing that with stiffer springs). Even real 8x10 Chamonix cameras don't have this spring mechanism, only the smaller ones. I attached a picture of an original chamonix 45 springback mechanism (a friend who actualy has it took it for me). And picture of springs and aluminum parts I made

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[mäkelä]

My simple 4x5 and 13x18 pinholecameras.

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[Jim Fitzgerald]

Here is my 8x10 "Jimonix" Walnut and Rosewood. One of my test images from its first studio shoot.

[Wolfgang AM]

Good job Jim!

[Lachlan 717]

Can someone please help with how to gear these things?

Specifically, how do you go about attaching the focus drive gears to the rod through the base plate? Is it a threaded rod with the gear screwed/glued/lock-nutted in place, or more of a proprietary system?

I'm up to building the base for my DIY camera and have got stuck on this issue.

Any photos and/or links would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[Jim Fitzgerald]

I use a non threaded rod and only thread the ends. My gears have set screws in them and I line them up and drill a a "set hole" if you will in the rod. It only needs to go in a little not all the way through the rod. Something for the gear to grab on to when you screw the set screw in. Other wise it will work its way loose. I get my pinion gears from Mcmaster Carr and they have set screws in them.

[Lachlan 717]

I use a non threaded rod and only thread the ends. My gears have set screws in them and I line them up and drill a a "set hole" if you will in the rod. It only needs to go in a little not all the way through the rod. Something for the gear to grab on to when you screw the set screw in. Other wise it will work its way loose. I get my pinion gears from Mcmaster Carr and they have set screws in them.

Thanks, Jim.

So, you just need a small thread cutting die to the same pitch as the knobs for the rod ends?

Do you use a dual rack (i.e. one on each end of the drive rod/camera base), or just on one side?

[Sart_S]

My Homemade Pinhole camera 6x12.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m1ZAFvMMoGY/UU4Fr2l3I2I/AAAAAAAAAlc/d14qb4EMg8c/w662-h386-p-o-k/612_f1.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B5RoBZMLiTg/UU4FrxfvEsI/AAAAAAAAAlg/6fTNViqTTcA/w700-h386-p-o-k/612_f2.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vq-Xp4xREmU/UVB8-5kzAHI/AAAAAAAAAmQ/nEyE1eT-Lzg/w700-h358-p-o-k/04_612N_24032012.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TyuSTcHboes/UVB88J_KZwI/AAAAAAAAAmI/lCCcN31iohE/w694-h358-p-o-k/01_612N_24032012.jpg

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Thanks, Jim.

So, you just need a small thread cutting die to the same pitch as the knobs for the rod ends?

Do you use a dual rack (i.e. one on each end of the drive rod/camera base), or just on one side?

Yes, I have a die that is the same thread pitch as the knob. I thread both ends and have a knob at each end. I use one to tighten/loosten and the other is locked in place,typically with epoxy.

[Steve Smith]

Can someone please help with how to gear these things?

Do a Google image search for Zone VI camera. There are a set of images for an ebay sale which include a view from underneath showing the racks. Other views show the pinions from above.

Basically, an axle runs through the camera from one side to another. On one end is fixed the focusing knob. A similar knob is fitted on the other end but is usually on a screw thread so it can be tightened against the side to lock the focus.

There are two pinions mounted on the axle which locate in the racks either side of the sliding assembly.


Steve.

[Steve Smith]

Have a look through this website too: http://www.raymentkirbycameras.co.uk/index.html


Steve.

[Steve Smith]

My Homemade Pinhole camera 6x12.

Very nice. Do you have any internal views you could share?


Steve.

[Sart_S]

Thank, Steve!Internal views and shutter.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FvznNIuZ7DM/UUTHtfjxdTI/AAAAAAAAAkY/auG5q6dG4Uk/w566-h367-p-o-k/05_P_612.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gj8BRwkjEn8/UUib1QJ3aaI/AAAAAAAAAk4/z0zloqwFhxQ/w455-h400-p-o-k/07_P_612.jpg

[Lachlan 717]

Yes, I have a die that is the same thread pitch as the knob. I thread both ends and have a knob at each end. I use one to tighten/loosten and the other is locked in place,typically with epoxy.

Thanks, Jim.

I have made some knobs that will allow drive AND tightening on the same side, so won't be going with the drive on the right, tightening on the left design.

I'm tempted to use two racks (one on each side of the extension arms) to balance the drive torque.

I've also found some cheap carbon fibre square section "tubing" that I'm interested in trying. Need to find out how much load it can bear. If it's enough, I'll try it as the rails. I'll also try some 5mm CF sheet as the base plate, attached to either the CF rails and/or the timber frame of the base/fixed section.

[Lachlan 717]

Do a Google image search for Zone VI camera. There are a set of images for an ebay sale which include a view from underneath showing the racks. Other views show the pinions from above.

Basically, an axle runs through the camera from one side to another. On one end is fixed the focusing knob. A similar knob is fitted on the other end but is usually on a screw thread so it can be tightened against the side to lock the focus.

There are two pinions mounted on the axle which locate in the racks either side of the sliding assembly.


Steve.

Thanks, Steve.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Thanks, Jim.

I have made some knobs that will allow drive AND tightening on the same side, so won't be going with the drive on the right, tightening on the left design.

I'm tempted to use two racks (one on each side of the extension arms) to balance the drive torque.

I've also found some cheap carbon fibre square section "tubing" that I'm interested in trying. Need to find out how much load it can bear. If it's enough, I'll try it as the rails. I'll also try some 5mm CF sheet as the base plate, attached to either the CF rails and/or the timber frame of the base/fixed section.

Cool. I would love to see this when you get it going. Be sure to post some images please.The single knob with the lock n the same side is just like my Seneca Improved. I'd like to know more about that. Where did you find that or how did you make it?

[Steve Smith]

Here is my 8x10 "Jimonix" Walnut and Rosewood.

That looks great. And I prefer your focusing slide arrangement to the Chamonix's over engineered linear bearing system.


Steve.

[Lachlan 717]

Cool. I would love to see this when you get it going. Be sure to post some images please.The single knob with the lock n the same side is just like my Seneca Improved. I'd like to know more about that. Where did you find that or how did you make it?

In really simple term, Jim, it is a bolt within a bolt setup.

The outer assembly is the clamping one, whilst the inner one is the drive knob.

It'll be the same for the knobs on the standards - one for rise/fall and one for tilt.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

In really simple term, Jim, it is a bolt within a bolt setup.

The outer assembly is the clamping one, whilst the inner one is the drive knob.

It'll be the same for the knobs on the standards - one for rise/fall and one for tilt.

Nice, sounds simple enough even for me to understand.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

That looks great. And I prefer your focusing slide arrangement to the Chamonix's over engineered linear bearing system.


Steve.

Steve, thanks. I was thinking of using that system but I did not want the learning curve in trying to sourse the materials and the added cost. My way was simple and has proved to be just right for the way I work which is KIIS!!!

[vinny]

I think it could by applied to 8x10, but you would have to use higher stiffness spring than I did (putting the spring in in place was nightmare, I scratched my fingers raw, I can't imagine doing that with stiffer springs). Even real 8x10 Chamonix cameras don't have this spring mechanism, only the smaller ones. I attached a picture of an original chamonix 45 springback mechanism (a friend who actualy has it took it for me). And picture of springs and aluminum parts I made

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91671
Chamonix 4x5 backs aren't very strong (compared to lets say a graflock). Put a 545 polaroid holder in the camera, tilt it up, and see what happens.

[Sart_S]

My Homemade version Polaroid conversion camera with Fujinon 125/5,6 mm.,4x5.


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QJZTqSkKeXM/UVgBPzoHtkI/AAAAAAAAAng/5-42UfiKK9A/s600/6914.jpg


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c3EoYDsIzdQ/UVgBRKNNQcI/AAAAAAAAAnw/tMXmc6IkDbs/s570/6930.jpg


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mRfu6mFXiAw/UVgBQ6kebOI/AAAAAAAAAns/PyvDERwbRbU/s700/6948.jpg

[Steve Smith]

My Homemade version Polaroid conversion camera with Fujinon 125/5,6 mm.,4x5.

That looks good. Is it a 110A? I have one which is half way through conversion (half way through seems to be a common theme with my projects!).

Is the rangefinder window useable? I think I will just about be able to use mine.

And am I right in assuming that you remove the ground glass frame to insert a film holder?


Steve.

[Sart_S]

Thanks Steve!It was a Polaroid 150!)Rangefinder works,to set the film holder to remove frame with ground glass.

[Nana Sousa Dias]

That looks good. Is it a 110A? I have one which is half way through conversion (half way through seems to be a common theme with my projects!).

Is the rangefinder window useable? I think I will just about be able to use mine.

And am I right in assuming that you remove the ground glass frame to insert a film holder?


Steve.

Steve, I have this one...I've been looking at it...and thinking...and looking...and thinking...and looking...and thinking...and looking...and thinking...and looking...and thinking...for 2 years!!!!!!

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/4857/polaroid1104.jpg (http://img198.imageshack.us/i/polaroid1104.jpg/)

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/9271/polaroid1101.jpg (http://img32.imageshack.us/i/polaroid1101.jpg/)

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/2964/polaroid1102.jpg (http://img811.imageshack.us/i/polaroid1102.jpg/)

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/3678/polaroid1103.jpg (http://img594.imageshack.us/i/polaroid1103.jpg/)

[Dan Fromm]

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=8D71BC33C77D1008!309&authkey=!AL4wujRLe4BDllM

I didn’t build the camera. I assembled it from Cambo parts: one each 2x3 and 4x5 standard, a reversible Graflok back to fit the 4x5 standard, a rail and a tripod mounting block. I did all this is to be able to shoot 6x12.

My contribution to the thing is the ugly tapered bag bellows. I made it because Cambo’s own tapered bag bellows (SF-322, 2x3 at one end, 4x5 at the other) is much too expensive ($340 plus shipping from Calumet).

My home made bag bellows works well enough. When the camera is set up with the rear standard reversed, it will focus a 35/4.5 Apo Grandagon mounted on a flat board through infinity. At least 10 mm of decentering movements are possible with the 35, but because the standards’ carrier frames nearly touch with the lens focused to infinity only very small tilts and swings are possible. When the rear standard is reversed the camera must be turned on its side to shoot in landscape orientation.

After looking at accounts of making bag bellows on the Internet I sent two Cambo boards (one each 2x3 and 4x5) to SKGrimes to be converted into bellows frames, bought a sample of foam neoprene fabric as used in making wet suits from http://www.rockywoods.com/ and bought a can of black McNett neoprene cement via amazon.com.

The fabric is opaque. Neoprene cement is a kind of contact cement, is flexible when cured. It glues the fabric very well, holds it to a lens board just well enough, i.e., one has to pull hard to separate the fabric from the board after the cement has set. After checking that the cement would serve I bought a 12” x 52” piece of 1.5 mm foam neoprene fabric from Rockywoods.

My bag bellows is the simplest possible, two 10” squares of 1.5 mm black foam neoprene fabric cemented together at the edges with the bellows frames cemented to them. The bonding areas at the edges are ½” wide, the bonding areas on the frames are as wide as possible, subject to leaving clearance for attaching the frame to the standard. Fully extended the bag is ~ 75 mm long.

Procedure: mark the fabric for cutting, cut out 10” squares, then cut a square hole in each square to match a frame's opening.

Mask the frames and fabric so that no cement will reach the frames’ edges and so that the bonding areas between frames and fabric won’t interfere with the carrier frames’ lens board sliders or retainers. I used blue masking tape left over from an interior painting project. Take care to mask the frames’ edges before applying cement to them; if any cement gets on their edges the frames won’t fit the standards’ carrier frames. Apply cement, peel off the masking tape, align the frames with their squares, press together, let the cement cure for 24 hours. Attaching the frames to the squares before cementing the squares together greatly reduces the risk of inadvertently cementing the squares together in the middle.

Mask the squares so that there will be cement only in the bonding areas, apply cement, peel off the masking tape, align the squares’ edges and press together, let the cement cure for 24 hours.

The bag bellows I made is quite short. The larger the fabric square, the longer the bellows can extend.

My 6x12 rig is not quite perfect. It will focus all but one of my lenses that cover 6x12 to infinity. The unfortunate exception is a 60/14 Perigraphe mounted in front of an Ilex #3. The shutter is so thick that even with no bellows and the two standards’ carrier frames touching the lens won’t focus to infinity. I’ve tried the exercise with the lens in front of an Alphax #3, a slightly thinner shutter; the Alphax is also too thick.

[bojove]

I just completed my most recent Homemade Handheld 4X5 using a 47mm Super Angulon lens. The lens does not cover 4X5, but my intention was to use roll film backs that were made for the standard 4X5 back. I also did not use a focusing helical since the lens has an incredible amount of depth. At f8 6' thru infinity is sharp. You may view the camera on Flickr, http://www.flickr.com/photos/bojove/ or in Google search, Homemade Handheld 4X5. Happy Shooting! B~

[Nana Sousa Dias]

Nice cameras...congratulations, they look very good.


I just completed my most recent Homemade Handheld 4X5 using a 47mm Super Angulon lens. The lens does not cover 4X5, but my intention was to use roll film backs that were made for the standard 4X5 back. I also did not use a focusing helical since the lens has an incredible amount of depth. At f8 6' thru infinity is sharp. You may view the camera on Flickr, http://www.flickr.com/photos/bojove/ or in Google search, Homemade Handheld 4X5. Happy Shooting! B~

[Curt]

Nice, sounds simple enough even for me to understand.

I replaced the shaft in my 8x10 Seneca because the shaft at the focus knob on the right was bent. That shaft is one solid piece. The end of the shaft on the right side of the camera is threaded. A single thread is cut on the shaft. When the shaft is installed the gears, which are brass and hubless, need to be carefully lined up and brazed to the shaft. It has to be exact. The locking knob is through bored and threaded. It is put on the shaft first. The focus knob has a threaded hub that's not threaded all the way through. It is put on tight and locktite and or a set screw is used.

The length of the extended threaded shaft is shortened to the point where the locking knob just takes a couple turns to lock the shaft. For ergonomics the locking knob is smaller in diameter than the outer focussing knob. When the hand goes to focus the larger outside knob is touched first. To lock just move the fingers in and turn the lock knob.

This type of locking system is best for large cameras where a big bear hug would be needed to focus and lock while holding the focus knob. This is the reason some cameras have Teflon "dampers" to prevent movement.

[Shootar401]

Still working on mine, still need to do some aluminium polishing and find a source for blue pebbled leather for the covering. Hopefully it will be done in a month or so

[Rick Rycroft]

bojove, What are you using for a viewfinder? It seems you've got this camera building caper figured out, nice work.

[Lachlan 717]

I replaced the shaft in my 8x10 Seneca because the shaft at the focus knob on the right was bent. That shaft is one solid piece. The end of the shaft on the right side of the camera is threaded. A single thread is cut on the shaft. When the shaft is installed the gears, which are brass and hubless, need to be carefully lined up and brazed to the shaft. It has to be exact. The locking knob is through bored and threaded. It is put on the shaft first. The focus knob has a threaded hub that's not threaded all the way through. It is put on tight and locktite and or a set screw is used.

The length of the extended threaded shaft is shortened to the point where the locking knob just takes a couple turns to lock the shaft. For ergonomics the locking knob is smaller in diameter than the outer focussing knob. When the hand goes to focus the larger outside knob is touched first. To lock just move the fingers in and turn the lock knob.

This type of locking system is best for large cameras where a big bear hug would be needed to focus and lock while holding the focus knob. This is the reason some cameras have Teflon "dampers" to prevent movement.

I'm seriously considering not having front geared focus. It's somewhat redundant on larger formats (8x10+). Seems to me that I can have a sliding front standard (unlike the Chemonix with its holed front) where I can "rough" the focus, and then use the rear, gear-driven focus to do the fine work.

I've also got an idea for a quick lock for the rails that does away with the vernacular screw style.

Both ideas should speed up the camera's set up time, without compromising stability.

[Curt]

I'm seriously considering not having front geared focus. It's somewhat redundant on larger formats (8x10+). Seems to me that I can have a sliding front standard (unlike the Chemonix with its holed front) where I can "rough" the focus, and then use the rear, gear-driven focus to do the fine work.

I've also got an idea for a quick lock for the rails that does away with the vernacular screw style.

Both ideas should speed up the camera's set up time, without compromising stability.

When building your own camera it doesn't matter what others say or do, you're the designer and user, that's the beauty of it. It's not always a one size fits all.

[Steve Smith]

When building your own camera it doesn't matter what others say or do, you're the designer and user, that's the beauty of it. It's not always a one size fits all.

Absolutely. Film at one end, lens at the other and a box to keep the darkness in. Anything else is up to you.


Steve.

[bojove]

Rick,
My favorite viewfinders are the old ones that were made for the Mamiya Press / Universal cameras. Their viewfinder for the 75mm lens works very well for 90mm and 75mm (4X5). For the 90mm lens use the 75mm frame lines. For a 75mm lens use the entire view. It is a nice size viewfinder with good brightness. Mamiya's 65mm VF is excellent for 90mm lenses, with better brightness and magnification. Mamiya made the same 75mm VF for the Polaroid 600SE camera.

......I only set out to build one handheld 4X5 camera. Initially I used the 75mm, but then acquired a 90mm Super Angulon in a focusing mount which initiated a 2nd camera. Then I decided that I want to improve the design and that initiated my 4th and 5th. My most recent with the 47mm lens is a work in progress. Instead of this body being dedicated to one lens I plan to adapt a 4X5 lens to it. Have not yet decided on which lens, but it will either be a 75mm or 90mm.
Best, B~

[Carsten Wolff]

A recent "rainy Sunday afternoon" effort and made as a bit of a joke: My 4x5" "Purple Haze VI" with 145mm f1.2; fixed focus at 1m, DOF non-existent. "World's Fastest 4x5"" perhaps ...or not :)

[gtmatias]

Hello there. This isn't quite a camera but this is my first fully operational wooden pinhole.

It has the nickname RAT 7545 (ratoeira, mousetrap) :D

All the wood work is handmade using old tools.
It's made out of Bangkirai and stainless steel.

. 4x5
. 75mm focal lenght with 0,32mm pinhole
. handmade shutter that work with standard releasing cables.
. 22mm vertical shifting.
. Parts screwed together for room to improvement.

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk236/gtmatias/RAT%207545/IMG_4599_2p_zpsd793fe1c.jpg

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk236/gtmatias/RAT%207545/IMG_4600_2p_zps8c28814d.jpg

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk236/gtmatias/RAT%207545/IMG_4596_2p_zpscf47f14f.jpg


Already tested it but no contact prints yet. At least the negatives look nice without pinhole (besides the intentional one!)

Thank you!

[kooyoungchung]

Hello

I have a question about the build quality of the helical focus mounts,which you can get on ebay.(Chinese one)

If you have used one please chime in.

Are they well built? sturdy?

Thank you.

Koo Young Chung

Chicago

[Ezzie]

Hello

I have a question about the build quality of the helical focus mounts,which you can get on ebay.(Chinese one)

If you have used one please chime in.

Are they well built? sturdy?

Thank you.

Koo Young Chung

Chicago

They are reasonably well made. Lots of metal, that´s for sure. My Fuji SW 90/8 is no problem for it at all, it is rigid enough for much bigger lenses. Mine has a Copal 0 opening if I remember correctly. Maybe not the smoothest of helicoids, there sure is enough throw, very good for fine focusing close up.

If I need another, I will be looking for the same helicoid.

[Ezzie]

In readiness for the WWP day I threw these parts together, made an internal spring loaded shutter and hey presto a 4x5 pinhole camera. Sinar back and IKEA plant pot make up the main parts.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8526/8640655562_fa85fbca1f_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ezzie0304/8640655562/)
DIY 4x5 Pinhole camera #1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ezzie0304/8640655562/) by Eirik0304 (http://www.flickr.com/people/ezzie0304/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8406/8640656794_461ee6a3ed_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ezzie0304/8640656794/)
DIY 4x5 Pinhole camera #3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ezzie0304/8640656794/) by Eirik0304 (http://www.flickr.com/people/ezzie0304/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/8640657422_4af3eaa9ec_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ezzie0304/8640657422/)
DIY 4x5 Pinhole camera #4 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ezzie0304/8640657422/) by Eirik0304 (http://www.flickr.com/people/ezzie0304/), on Flickr

[bojove]

Hello

I have a question about the build quality of the helical focus mounts,which you can get on ebay.(Chinese one)

If you have used one please chime in.

Are they well built? sturdy?

Thank you.

Koo Young Chung

Chicago

[bojove]

Koo,
I have purchased three of the Chinese helical mounts. They are well made, work smoothly, and look good. I have purchased them through the seller named, Jinfinance on ebay. I have also purchased his sinar to linhof adapters, and his linhof style extended lens boards. His communications are excellent, and I usually receive the parts in about a week to 10 days (West Coast). He has also made minor modification for me that he does not advertise. Happy Shooting, B~

[kooyoungchung]

To Ezzie and bojove

Thank you for your comments about the helicoid.

I'm collecting parts for my DIY 6x12 camera.
So far I got the lens(90 Super Angulon) and Polaroid miniportrait for cone.

This thread is very exciting and inspiring!

Koo Young Chung

Chicago,USA

[Ezzie]

Miniportrait as cone, helicoid and a 90? Looks like you will not be needing inspiration from this build then ;) http://www.galerie-photo.com/chambre-legere-4x5.html

And I too have used the same seller Jinfinance. A really nice guy, very intent on pleasing. Good communicator.

[gambaphoto]

Its been 6 months in the works, several design fails and so many design changes I can barely remember where I started but I have finished what I can only consider a working version #1. I already have plans to make version #2 of this camera with all that I have learned from the making of this one. Yes I have designed this around several others that I have seen not only here on LFP but around the web. I am no wood maker, I'm a photographer hence the very many flaws in the fine craftsmanship, however it is light tight, all working parts function as they should, including the film/paper holder. I submit to you my 16x20 direct positive print camera. I'm using a 24" f/9 Rodenstock APO-Ronar with compond shutter, the bellows I folded from bristol board and is 24" square and 50" long but will never actually reach that length folded I can get it to 41" which gives me the ability to focus at around 6 feet from the lens. I have tried my first photos the other night and yes the holder and camera work and are light tight but as anyone who has used the Harman direct positive paper knows, they were to dark. Once I had finally finished the camera it continued to rain fro 2 weeks and on the first day of sun the only time I could shoot was at sun set and although I knew I was pushing it (clearly) I had to try. I will follow up with some more detailed photos of the camera (although not pretty might help out the next camera builder) and some working details as I play a bit more but I couldn't wait to show you any longer.
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