My E-6 processing is looking more magenta

[Gene McCluney]

Last few 50 sheet boxes of 4x5 E-6 are looking more magenta. They are all "in-date".
I run my own processing line, and I mix up fresh chemistry every couple of weeks. Fuji 35mm Provia processed in the same sink-line looks great, no color casts. I know one can adjust the color developer PH to effect color balance, but I am wondering if I need to, considering the Provia looks good? My chemistry is fresh and not exhausted.

[Mark Sampson]

Have you spoken to Kodak about this? They used to have a superb tech support section. Don't know if it still exists but it's worth a try.

[Nathan Potter]

Gene, of course it's always a question of how much more magenta. What's the film that looks magenta, Velvia 100? That's a slight characteristic of that film. The Provia being seemingly OK might be a clue that you had a temperature spike in the developer solution that went undetected during processing.

Also as mentioned in a previous thread, the color temperature (or equivalent thru a filter) during exposure can cause an overall color cast to a chrome. This especially with the Velvia emulsions and I think to a somewhat lesser extent with the Ektachrome film (my experience). Good to run one control sheet of white with a color patch exposed to a consistent color temperature, say direct sun. This can separate the processing variable from the exposure variable. Costs only a couple of extra bucks per process run.

It would be desirable to check the developer pH using a pH meter I suppose but I've never done that since I always use fresh chemistry in drum or drip and drunk processing. I'm guessing that the pH strips don't exhibit enough resolution to use for this purpose.

Nate Potter, Austin TX

[Gudmundur Ingolfsson]

You adjust the blue/yellow balance with the PH. The concentration of the reversal bath controls the magenta/green balance. Try to reduce the concentration of the reversal bath to reduce magenta. If you are using a rotary processor like a JOBO you should mix 30 to 35 ml of concentrate instead of 50 ml to the liter. Films are a little different in their sensitivity to this balance. Fuji less so than Kodak.

[Gene McCluney]

You adjust the blue/yellow balance with the PH. The concentration of the reversal bath controls the magenta/green balance. Try to reduce the concentration of the reversal bath to reduce magenta. If you are using a rotary processor like a JOBO you should mix 30 to 35 ml of concentrate instead of 50 ml to the liter. Films are a little different in their sensitivity to this balance. Fuji less so than Kodak.

Thank you so much. I did not know the reversal bath concentration altered magenta/green balance. I develop in 3.5 gallon stainless steel deep tank, I will just add some water to the reversal bath, to dilute.

[Gudmundur Ingolfsson]

Gene ! An other thing! If you are developing in a tank you should not agitate in the
reversal bath that is the explanation for the higher concentration of the chemicals.
So before you dilute the bath, stop the agitation !

[Gene McCluney]

Gene ! An other thing! If you are developing in a tank you should not agitate in the
reversal bath that is the explanation for the higher concentration of the chemicals.
So before you dilute the bath, stop the agitation !

Thank you again, I will reduce the agitation, however I can say that I am processing my E-6 just exactly the same way I have done it for 20 years now, in the same tanks, with the same timer, etc..but of course,constantly changed-out chemistry. I use Kodak (brand) chemistry. I have always made EPP my "standard" for studio products.