Metal Lens Caps

[Lachlan 717]

I've just decided to upgrade (?) to metal lens caps for all of my lenses, and for my 90mm centre filter. These will replace the slide on caps that came with the lenses.

The metal caps have all come from eBay, and each was under US$10 each. The one for the centre filter is massive at 105mm (internal), meaning there are now metal caps for most lens sizes.

Apart from the inherent strength of the alloy used, I like the screw in design of these. Admittedly, it takes about 3 seconds longer to takes these of compared to snap-on hood; however, I think that the thread design will offer greater protection for the lens rim if the lens is dropped. The cap also has a rim that overhangs the rim by a mm or two, again offering good protection.

I'm interested in other people's experience with these metal caps.

[Don Hutton]

They bind at the most inconvenient times....

[aphexafx]

I'm wondering if anyone makes plastic/nylon screw-on lens caps. They would absorb any miss-alignment damage and could be replaced easily if needed. And they wouldn't tend to wear the metal threads on the lenses...

[Lachlan 717]

They bind at the most inconvenient times....

Thanks, Don.

Do you find that this is temperature related? Or just because they were designed by the good folks at "Bastard Inc"?

[Lachlan 717]

And they wouldn't tend to wear the metal threads on the lenses...

I would suggest that the alloy used in these is much softer than the lens rim. Perhaps that is an issue, either for build-up of chamfered alloy in the groove and/or alloy deposits on the lens.

I'll keep my eye out...

[David A. Goldfarb]

I like metal caps. I use them for quite a few medium and small format lenses, but most of my LF lens caps are slip on caps.

The only thing I would worry about with LF lenses and metal caps is that the caps are usually flat, and some LF lenses have front elements that bulge quite close to the level of the filter thread, and there could be some danger of the cap rubbing against the element. I'd check that through the back of the lens with the aperture open to be sure.

[Gem Singer]

Screw-on metal lens caps are a PITI.

Snap-in plastic caps are lighter, easier and faster to use, and more economical.

They offer more than enough protection for the lens elements.

[Lachlan 717]

Snap-in plastic caps are lighter, easier and faster to use, and more economical.


I weighed one of the 77mm metal caps and one of my Nikon 77mm plastic snap-on caps, and the metal one was lighter (well all 13 grams lighter).

Also, I should have mentioned that the US$10 included international postage. The 52mm ones were US$4.49 each, the 77mm was $5.99, the 82mm was $6.99 and the massive 105mm was $8.50.

All of these were about the same as the plastic ones, whilst the 105mm was beaten by a really thin and crappy looking plastic one at $7.69. To get a "modern" style (i.e. centre pinch rather than rim pinch), the cost blew out to $13.

So I feel that I saved weight and money (albeit margin amounts on both counts...)

[darr]

I have a beautiful Cooke PS945 that came with custom made metal caps. The first thing I did was find a plastic snap-in replacement for the front element. I keep it on 24/7 when the lens is stationed on a tripod and box. I got lucky since it uses a 77mm size and I had a few from my Nikon zoom days. Just my 2 cents.

[Gem Singer]

Sounds like you are hell bent on using metal screw-in lens caps. Therefore, anything you read or hear from photographers with more experience will have no effect on your decision.

After you have struggled with screw-ins for a while, please report back with your experiences.

Sincerely, I wish you the best of luck.

[aphexafx]

The man doesn't sound hell bent to me, he is merely rebutting some concerns with his own point of view - nothing wrong with that. He obviously weighed his own advantages/disadvantages before purchasing his caps, and they are his caps, so...

Lachlan, I hope they work well for you - I'm just frustrated that even generic plastic push-on types cost so much: B&H wants ~$10 a pop, times 2 per lens, equals $80 to replace all my LF lens caps for four lenses. That's complete crap.

I just paid slightly more than that for a nice big Pelican case that will hold all of them mounted on big 6.5x6.5 Cambo boards and more. So, this is clearly a rip off. But, they are a low demand item, so...

[John T]

Aluminum caps can bind to aluminum lens barrels. This is why all aluminum lenses need a lot more lubrication than brass to aluminum lenses.


Snap-in plastic caps are lighter, easier and faster to use, and more economical.

Because speed is so important to large format photography?;)

[Gem Singer]

Matt, did you read the OP's post, about three up from yours?

We're talking about snap-in plastic lens caps, similar to the ones that are standard equipment on Nikon digital zoom lenses. They are center pinch ones. Not the plastic slip-ons that are supplied with LF lenses

Rim pinch plastic lens caps will also do the job.

[Gem Singer]

John T,

Did you ever attempt to remove, or install a metal screw-in lens cap under cold weather conditions with slightly numb fingers?

Ever accidentally get some sand in the caps threads?

Cross- thread a metal screw-in lens cap just once and you'll understand my reasoning.

[Lachlan 717]

Gem Singer,

Thanks for the input.

This came down to 3 things:

First, the slide on cap from the Schneider centre filter cracked/split, so had to be replaced.

Second, the centre pinch Nikon caps seemed to come off with seemingly very little urging.

Finally, I don't believe that slide on and clip on caps offer significant foreign body protection. They do not seal the element.

So, I'm trying metal.

I live in a temperate climate. Cold weather seems a distant childhood memory, so cold shouldn't really come into it. This includes different expansion/contraction rates of the different metals AND loss of manual dexterity in removing/replacing the caps.

Like any threaded product, if you want to be able to undo it, don't do it up tight. I just nip the cap. This has not caused me any issue to date.

As for sealing the lens, I realise that I can use a UV filter for this. I also can buy a car that has seatbelts, airbags and crumple zones. This doesn't mean that I don't use only one of these safety systems.

And you think that the extra couple of seconds removing a metal cap is a pain? Try removing a UV filter every time you want to fit a Pol Filter or a Lee/Cokin set.

[John T]

Um...Gem Singer,

Is winter in Colorado, South Dakota and Minnesota cold enough for you? I lived 15 years in these locations.

Currently living in coastal southern California and shooting the Rincon surf shacks, yep I'm used to sand.

Sorry, maybe it is you not the equipment.

I have slip-on caps, screw in metal caps and clip on caps on various lenses. I just know how to work with the personalities of the equipment.

[Gem Singer]

After 63 years of working with most types of cameras, in all types of climates, I think I have enough experience to voice my personal opinion.

[John T]

Now for the constructive part of my posting:

Lachlan 617,

Pedro's Ice Wax works great to limit the seizing of the lens cap. Carefully put some on the threads of the cap. It comes out a liquid and then dries to a wax. Once it dries, buff off the excess. It will not make sand or dirt stick to the threads. In fact they tend to slip off easier. Your lens cap will work much smoother. This also is great for cameras with brass focusing tracks.

Make sure you brush sand or dirt from the threads prior to attaching to the lens.

Also, I found that the Tamron center pinch lens caps hold much better than the Nikon ones.

[aphexafx]

Matt, did you read the OP's post, about three up from yours?

I did, yes. And I only mentioned the slip-on types because I was annoyed by the cost, which seems high, especially compare to the metal ones Lachlan has purchased. I realize you were referring to the center-pinch type.

[David A. Goldfarb]

Is this, like, a flame war about lens caps?

[aphexafx]

I just realized that none of my Nikkors have threaded rear elements, and this is the only place I would actually like a threaded metal cap (I only remove them when I mount to my camera, whereas the front caps come on and off throughout a shoot).

Damn. :(


David, who is flaming???? :confused:

[John T]

Gem,

You stated your position, which is fine, but then you seemed to get a little grumpy. If you think we are all crazy, maybe it is time to go to a different thread. I've only been using large format for 31 years so maybe I don't have enough experience for you, but I'm willing to learn new techniques if someone has a better idea.

Lachlan,

I don't know if you've tried the old fashioned leather slip on lens caps, but they do a great job of sealing out the elements. They aren't as secure as the screw in, but if they are sized to the lens they are fantastic. There have been several websites that have instructions to make them.

[Gem Singer]

John T,

i don't know how you came to the conclusion that I thought all of you are all crazy. Certainly, if I did think that way, I probably would not have participated on this forum for over eight years.

I may come across as a grumpy 78 year old at times, but I assure you I am only attempting to prevent members of this forum from committing the same mistakes that I made in the past.

I learn something new about photography very day.

Over the years, I have found that the intelligent, knowledgeable members of this forum don't need my advice and the ignorant, inexperienced members won't take my advice.

[darr]

Over the years, I have found that the intelligent, knowledgeable members of this forum don't need my advice and the ignorant, inexperienced members won't take my advice.

Hey Gem,

I can learn something new about photography daily if I have the time to search, shoot or shout. I just read your advice about using Formulary FA-1027 for HP5+ in another current thread. I have used DD-X for a few years with ACROS and FP4+, but want to try something new. I just ordered FA-1027 from Photographer's Formulary and want to say "thank you" for your insight.

Sorry for the hijack guys, but I felt a need to spread a little appreciation. :)

Kind regards,
Darr

[Don Hutton]

I'd like to add an important point about lens caps again - all push-on plastic caps are designed to breathe - have a look on the inside and you will see that the cap has a series of ridges on the inside lip which actually rest against the outside of the lens barrel but air can move freely in and out of the cap around these ridges. This helps to prevent fungus and fogging issues. Screw in metal caps don't allow breathing and any use of lubricant on the threads, while it may help to prevent binding issues, will ensure that no breathing occurs. I've seen significant fogging on the inside of a lens where the center filter was left on for an extended period due to exactly the same effect. There's a pretty good reason that every manufacturer of LF lenses uses the same "breathing" slip-on plastic lens caps... they work and prevent these issues.

[Gem Singer]

Thanks Darr,

It's good to see an intelligent, knowledgeable person take my advice once in a while.

After you have tried FA-1027 with HP-5+, let me know if you arrived at the same conclusion. I have found it to be an improvement over DD-X. Doesn't blow out the highlights.

I use the 1 +14 dilution at 70 degrees for 10.5 minutes, dip-and dunk.

Far cry from a discussion about metal lens caps, isn't it?

[darr]

Far cry from a discussion about metal lens caps, isn't it?

Yup!! :D

[Gem Singer]

Don,

I certainly agree. Snap-in plastic lens caps will also allow a small amount of air to circulate around the glass.

A good reason not to keep a glass screw-in filter on a lens all of the time.