Heyyyy! I got it! (mounted first lens into lens board)

[dh003i]

Forgive the quote from Jaws ;-) I just mounted my Xenotar 135/3.5 into a Linhof Copal 1 hole board, figured out how to unscrew the rear element and then what I think is the retaining ring (what provides a tight fit).

But what are these screws people keep talking about that "prevent the lens from rotating"?

I also have a Schneider Symmar 150/5.6, mounted in a Compur on a Linhof lensboard, which came with my Color Kardan. This doesn't seem to have any screws securing it to the lens-board either, but just appears to be screwed in from either side (that is, the retainer ring to the front element with the lensboard in-between, then the rear element into the front element. No screws.

Is this a big deal? I do notice that with some pressure, I can rotate and "loosen" the Xenotar 135/3.5 from the lensboard.

[John Schneider]

Many lenses, esp. used, will be lacking those tiny screws. I don't use them (I like my lenses about 30 deg. CCW from the orientation with the screw), so in the rare event a lens I buy a used lens that has such screw, I remove it and put it in the spare parts bin.

If you can rotate the lens it's too loose. Use a good lens wrench like from Linos/Rodenstock, or the great adjustable spanner from SK Grimes.

[Brian Ellis]

A former owner likely threw the little screw away, most people don't use them. They aren't necessary as long as you tighten the retaining ring adequately (which it doesn't sound like you've done). When I first started with LF I used the pointed end of one tyne of a table fork to tighten the ring.

[Jeffrey Sipress]

FIs this a big deal?

Not really, pretty basic. Not any more difficult than changing the batteries in a flashlight.

[Vaughn]

I believe I read on the SKGrimes site (the lens mounting folks) that the screw should be removed if your lens board does not have the corresponding hole for it -- otherwise you can mess your shutter up...probably due to the shutter not sitting flat.

The screw should not be needed it you can get the retaining ring nice and tight -- so that it stays tight, even with a little pressure on it...which is what a lens wrench is good for. Fork tines work -- just don't slip and scratch the lens...but the proper tool is a good thing to have. I have an adjustable one I use all the time (but then I have a bank of enlargers and closet full of 4x5's I take care of -- perhaps 50+ lenses I have to keep tight. It is a good tool to have if you occasionally change lenses on boards...or even just to keep the ones you have tight.

So it is not a "big deal"...once you have done it a couple times...soon you will be making your own lens boards! ( I have several I made, and use on a regular basis, that are constructed out of mount boards!)

Vaughn

[dh003i]

I see that SK Grimes offers a spanner wrench which can adjust to many different widths for $38; but there's also spanner wrenches on eBay, including the Rodenstock spanner...which one is best?

SK Grimes Spanner Wrench -- $38 (http://www.skgrimes.com/span/index.htm)
A NEW SPANNER WRENCH CAMERA LENS OPENER/3 BIT SETS: $43.75 (incl shipping) (http://cgi.ebay.com/A-NEW-SPANNER-WRENCH-CAMERA-LENS-OPENER-3-BIT-SETS_W0QQitemZ350153214113QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116)
Rodenstock Lens Wrench for Compur, Copal and Prontor "0", "1" and "3" shutters: $25 (incl shipping) (http://cgi.ebay.com/Rodenstock-Lens-Wrench-New-No-Reserve-Free-Shipping_W0QQitemZ350157241272QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFilm_Cameras?hash=item350157241272&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50)
Spanner Wrench 1/32": $20.45 (incl. shipping) (http://cgi.ebay.com/Spanner-Wrench-1-32-Great-Tool-for-Lens_W0QQitemZ110335347721QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFilm_Camera_Accessories?hash=item110335347721&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50)
Spanner Wrench 3/32" ($20.45 incl shipping) (http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Spanner-Wrench-3-32-Great-Tool-for-Lens_W0QQitemZ110331262084QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFilm_Camera_Accessories?hash=item110331262084&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50)

[John Schneider]

Get two Linos/Rodenstock wrenches, and the SK Grimes one with the flat blades. The Linos one is small and light (put one in your camera backpack) and almost idiotproof for retaining rings of standard shutters. It won't do recessed boards, odd size shutter retaining rings, or lens cell retaining rings, which is where you need the adjustable Grimes model.

[dh003i]

Get two Linos/Rodenstock wrenches, and the SK Grimes one with the flat blades. The Linos one is small and light (put one in your camera backpack) and almost idiotproof for retaining rings of standard shutters. It won't do recessed boards, odd size shutter retaining rings, or lens cell retaining rings, which is where you need the adjustable Grimes model.

Thanks...is there any effective difference between the Linos/Rodenstock wrench and this Toyo one (http://cgi.ebay.com/TOYO-LENS-WRENCH-SPANNER-for-SCHNEIDER-RODENSTOCK_W0QQitemZ350155166406QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFilm_Camera_Accessories?hash=item350155166406&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50)? (I probably won't need copal #3).

[Joe Forks]

That one will do fine, and I didn't think I'd ever need one for a copal three either, but I'll give you 6 or 8 months to change your mind. haha