Efke 50 tank developing

[Bill Putnam]

Hi everyone,
I am about to start a landscape project with a 4x5 pinhole usine Efke 50 b/w film. I have shot some already and it looks great (must be the film and not the photog!).
Since I am a poor college student I want to develop the film my self. My plan, for now, is to use Kodak D76 (I like the results on my 35mm Tri-X so sticking with a proven developer is key for me).

The questions I have are more technical.
1) Can I soup the film in Paterson tanks?
2) If so, do I need special holders or do I just put the film in there?
3) Should I use a "hardener" on the film during developing?

That's it for now folks. Thanks in advance.

Happy New Year.

Cheers,
Bill.

[gari beet]

Hi Bill, I shoot Efke25 in halfplate and process it in a paterson tank, one sheet at a time.
I hand roll it in a jobo for the temp bath but there is no reason you can't do the same in a tub or other with tempered water. It is a little more time consuming than doing a batch but as I shoot small amounts of film I am ok with it, also it means if I shoot 1 sheet all day I can still process what I have there and then.

Gari

[gbogatko]

I use an HP Combi-Plan and soup in Diafine. The Combi-Plan will do 6 negs at a time and is a cinch to use.

Diafine is a 2-bath developer that will produce really usable negs from just about any kind of exposure conditions. I begin to think it's impossible to blow highlights and lose shadows with the stuff assuming you aren't being too silly when taking the picture. Total dev time with fixing is around 15 min at a temperature of somewhere between 65 and 75 degrees -- yes, it's real forgiving. The working solution lasts forever, so even though it's about $17 for a gallon's worth you get it back because you don't have to throw any away for a loooong time.

[Glenn Thoreson]

I use my Paterson style tank when I only have one sheet. Some folks can get 3 or 4 in there by folding the sheets like a taco and stuffing them in. I don't like to do that. If you want to use your tank, leave the reels out but leave all the center post stuff in. Put your sheet against the side with the emulsion side facing in. If you continuously roll your tank in a water bath, you can use much less chemistry. Use a hardening fixer. There's not much danger of scratching the film using this method. If you want an inexpensive setup for developing up to 4-4X5s at a time, look for an 8X10 Unicolor print (yes, print) drum and motorized roller base. It will also allow you to do 2-5X7s or 1-8X10. Uses very little chemistry and you can also do your prints in it. After loading, it's all done in the light while you relax. :D

[Gem Singer]

Do not use a hardener during the development stage.

Hardeners are acidic. Developers are alkaline.

A hardener is not really necessary. However, if you insist on using one, use it in the fixer stage.

Just be careful not to scratch the wet negatives. Once dry, the negatives will be scratch resistant.

[Bill Putnam]

THanks everyone.
One last question. I have two types of Paterson tanks, the 2 roll and 3 roll. I can do one 4x5 sheet in the 2-roll and 2 4x5 shets in the 3-roll?
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Bill.