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Lomnický štít
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3897/14800017815_73d96e5026_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oxPXEX)
Łomnica (https://flic.kr/p/oxPXEX) by JaZ99wro (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Graflex 4x5
Fujinon 105mm
Velvia 100F, expired
Tachihara 4x5, 75mm Super Angulon, Velvia 50, Drumscanner Scanmate 11000
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14798789464_14d6facc10_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14798789464/)
Bornholm 5 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14798789464/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
Very lovely, thoughtful composition, Ken.
From the overall tone, didn't have to look twice to know it was yours !
Thank you very much.
It's funny how we can't remove our "signature" even when we're not aware of putting it on in the first place.
ImSoNegative
1-Aug-2014, 06:01
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14609279729_154c13ea60_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ofYnTg)Dolomites 2 (https://flic.kr/p/ofYnTg) by Fredrick D. Fjeldsbø (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
very nice!,, this shot reminds me of a scene in "sound of music"
Fredrick
1-Aug-2014, 06:25
very nice!,, this shot reminds me of a scene in "sound of music"
Thank you! I have not seen that film, but I have heard good things.
bobwysiwyg
1-Aug-2014, 06:54
Tachihara 4x5, 75mm Super Angulon, Velvia 50, Drumscanner Scanmate 11000
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14798789464_14d6facc10_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14798789464/)
Bornholm 5 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14798789464/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
Very nice! Love the composition and lighting.
andreios
1-Aug-2014, 08:39
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14609279729_154c13ea60_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ofYnTg)Dolomites 2 (https://flic.kr/p/ofYnTg) by Fredrick D. Fjeldsbø (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Really beautiful... I have been only once in the Dolomites but since then I hope to return there - and spend there as much time as possible...
Fredrick
1-Aug-2014, 09:09
Really beautiful... I have been only once in the Dolomites but since then I hope to return there - and spend there as much time as possible...
Thank you Andreios. I too will be going back to the Dolomites, maybe in the autumn this year. I really liked the place, and I have only seen a small part of the Dolomites so far. I have been many places, but the Dolomites are even better than the Lofoten Islands in Norway.
pdmoylan
1-Aug-2014, 14:59
Tachihara 4x5, 75mm Super Angulon, Velvia 50, Drumscanner Scanmate 11000
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14798789464_14d6facc10_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14798789464/)
Bornholm 5 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14798789464/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
Fantastic. I wish I had some Velvia 50 left. Alas I have run out.
tachihara 4x5, 75mm super angulon, velvia 50, drumscanner scanmate 11000
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14798789464_14d6facc10_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@n03/14798789464/)
bornholm 5 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@n03/14798789464/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@n03/) auf flickr
love !
vitality
2-Aug-2014, 07:42
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55245071/photo/monte_baldo_sinar_velvia_rvp_50.jpg
Sinar 4x5, Schneider 180mm
Velvia RVP50, Tetenal E6
StoneNYC
2-Aug-2014, 11:30
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14609279729_154c13ea60_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ofYnTg)Dolomites 2 (https://flic.kr/p/ofYnTg) by Fredrick D. Fjeldsbø (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Holy crap! Amazing!
Peter Lewin
2-Aug-2014, 11:40
Vitality: Beautiful picture. Is that Latvia?
neprosti
2-Aug-2014, 12:11
119299
119300
vitality
2-Aug-2014, 12:15
Vitality: Beautiful picture. Is that Latvia?
Thank you. No, picture taken in Italy. Monte Baldo, next to Garda lake.
Thank you. No, picture taken in Italy. Monte Baldo, next to Garda lake.
Very nice. Appealing too.
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55245071/photo/monte_baldo_sinar_velvia_rvp_50.jpg
Sinar 4x5, Schneider 180mm
Velvia RVP50, Tetenal E6
Lovely! Are you using any NaOH to correct white balance?
vitality
4-Aug-2014, 12:37
Lovely! Are you using any NaOH to correct white balance?
Thank you. No i'm not using any additional chemicals to correct balance. I do not have that level of knowledge what I'm doing to start correct WB with additional chemicals.
Also this shot is on Velvia which expired 12 years ago, so I'm not sure if it is worth to try to correct something during developing process.
Anyway to me looks fine how it came out. Some adjustments done with post processing, but nothing major.
Thank you. No i'm not using any additional chemicals to correct balance. I do not have that level of knowledge what I'm doing to start correct WB with additional chemicals.
Also this shot is on Velvia which expired 12 years ago, so I'm not sure if it is worth to try to correct something during developing process.
Anyway to me looks fine how it came out. Some adjustments done with post processing, but nothing major.
Indeed it looks fine, that's why I was asking. I've discovered that uncorrected tetenal kit gives me too much magenta cast.
Indeed it looks fine, that's why I was asking. I've discovered that uncorrected tetenal kit gives me too much magenta cast.
Perhaps you could share how you correct the white balance(maybe on another thread).
Perhaps you could share how you correct the white balance(maybe on another thread).
It is actually described in the booklet shipped with the kit. I just add a 0.06 ml of 20% NaOH per 0.5L of CD.
Chromes look good with naked eyes, but I'm going to develop the control strip tomorrow. I can report back, if anyone interested.
Colorado CJ
5-Aug-2014, 21:27
Just a quick snap to test out some expired film I just received (TMAX 400). Shot at 250ISO through a 25A filter and developed in HC-110(h) for 8.5 minutes.
That black thing is an Alpaca.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5562/14817431676_e3b2d0ce64_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ozndcW)Storms-Coming (https://flic.kr/p/ozndcW) by Colorado CJ (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
StoneNYC
6-Aug-2014, 03:54
Just a quick snap to test out some expired film I just received (TMAX 400). Shot at 250ISO through a 25A filter and developed in HC-110(h) for 8.5 minutes.
That black thing is an Alpaca.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5562/14817431676_e3b2d0ce64_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ozndcW)Storms-Coming (https://flic.kr/p/ozndcW) by Colorado CJ (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Some people's tests are better than my normal photographs.... Lol
Colorado CJ
6-Aug-2014, 09:43
Some people's tests are better than my normal photographs.... Lol
Thanks. It wasn't a complete success though. As you can see, the photo isn't in 4x5 proportions. I had to crop the lower area because of a developing error. I am new to large format and am currently using the "taco" method. Things didn't go right and the edge of the film didn't get developed right.
I think I'll try tray development next.
StoneNYC
6-Aug-2014, 10:26
Thanks. It wasn't a complete success though. As you can see, the photo isn't in 4x5 proportions. I had to crop the lower area because of a developing error. I am new to large format and am currently using the "taco" method. Things didn't go right and the edge of the film didn't get developed right.
I think I'll try tray development next.
I was never happy with taco, Mod54 or JOBO 2509n are both excellent, have never done tray. Good luck!
premortho
6-Aug-2014, 11:18
Thanks. It wasn't a complete success though. As you can see, the photo isn't in 4x5 proportions. I had to crop the lower area because of a developing error. I am new to large format and am currently using the "taco" method. Things didn't go right and the edge of the film didn't get developed right.
I think I'll try tray development next.
I've never used any other metheod except tray developing for almost 70 years. And the guy who taught me, my grandfather, had been tray developing since 1895. So between us we've covered almost 140 years of this, if my math is right. He developed them one at a time, and so do I. Maybe that's why the process works so well for us. (Actually he passed on in 1950). He started when he bought his first bottle of Rodinal in 1895. I still use it. I develop it the way all the old photo guides tell you to do it. I use 5 ounces of soup (offen 50-1), tilt the tray slightly, and flow the soup across the top of the negative in one fell swoop. Not rapidly enough to get bubbles or air bells, but fast enough to cover the whole sheet quickly, so development is even. About 8 minutes for the films I use. More or less 100 speed. I use a 5X7 tray for 4X5 negatives, and 8X10 trays for 5X7 film. Agitate per directions. Ortho and Panchro films. Incidentely, while tray developing is faster than tanks and other ways, I just adjust the mix to get the process to work at 8 minutes or so.
Another morning. It should have been an holiday vacation, but I got up at 3:30 AM nearly every morning. Could not sleep while I was knowing that these colours show up on the other side of the curtain.
Tachihara 4x5, Ektar 100, 75mm Super Angulon, Drumscanner. I did NOT amp up the colour! Only RAW Scan and contrast after inverting with ColorNeg Plugin.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3855/14659674479_343f770ccd_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14659674479/)
Bornholm 6 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14659674479/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
Jim Cole
6-Aug-2014, 14:18
sdzsdz,
That was worth getting up for. Really nice shot and the Ektar captured it beautifully. Congrats!
119457
My second large format frame ever. The first was a bit... uh... overexposed. Pulled the dark slide before closing the shutter. Whoops!
It's just a test shot off my back deck to try out the Crown Graphic I inherited from a friend's grandfather. It's equipped with an Optar 162mm 1:4.5. Unfortunately, the shutter speeds below 1/10 are gummed up and the lens has some separation in the rear group. It still makes some great images though.
Shot at f/16 with a yellow filter on Ilford FP4+, souped in D76, scanned half at a time on an Epson V550. Stitched, de-dusted, sharpened, and contrast tweaked in Photoshop.
StoneNYC
6-Aug-2014, 20:05
Another morning. It should have been an holiday vacation, but I got up at 3:30 AM nearly every morning. Could not sleep while I was knowing that these colours show up on the other side of the curtain.
Tachihara 4x5, Ektar 100, 75mm Super Angulon, Drumscanner. I did NOT amp up the colour! Only RAW Scan and contrast after inverting with ColorNeg Plugin.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3855/14659674479_343f770ccd_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14659674479/)
Bornholm 6 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14659674479/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
Vacation be damned! Best ektar sheet I've ever seen, I'm a Velvia man but it's good to know SOMETHING can be pulled from that darn CN stuff :) good job!
Thank you guys!
@ Stone:
I always thought, Velvia is THE film for landscape and I still use it frequently. BUT I´m getting more and more to Ektar. The contrast margin of the Velvia is too narrow in many lighting Situations, and you have to do many exposures for one shot to pick out the right one afterwards, so you are wasting film and time. After that, Velvia is extremely hard to scan in my opinion, even with my drumscanner.
Ektar is much more forgiving with the Highlights/shadows, has a beautiful colour rendition and is quite as sharp. Here the whole difficulty is scanning and inverting. My drumscanner does a extremely good Job with scanning the raw negative. Everything else is done in PS.
I love Velvia, but I will use it only for Special purposes with very even lighting Situation in the future.
This Picture would have been impossible to do with Velvia e.g.:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14753365756/
Agreed. I find ektar the better option 90% of the time. The extra 2 to 3 stops of range make it better for nearly everything. You can be 1/3rd of a stop off on the exposure and still make a good image from it, the film scans easily and colorneg plugin makes easy work of the colors. It's my go-to film for landscapes. I always take velvia with me just incase the light is soft and even. If I have to use 3 filters to bring a scene into the range of velvia, I prefer one filter and ektar.
That's a beautiful photo.
To each his own though. I hate Ektar - shooting and scanning it just doesn't work for me. I have better luck with slides and tweaking my development if needed to not get quite so deep shadows/density.
StoneNYC
7-Aug-2014, 06:48
That's a beautiful photo.
To each his own though. I hate Ektar - shooting and scanning it just doesn't work for me. I have better luck with slides and tweaking my development if needed to not get quite so deep shadows/density.
Yea same with me, CN film scans horribly on my Epson V-750 ... Like it's awful! E-6 is way easier to scan for me so long as the exposure is right in the first place.
Stone, you have to go after it with a lot of color correction tools. And for what it's worth ColorPerfect didn't do anything for me. But I prefer the scans (and ease of scanning, if exposed well) from Velvia, is what I'm saying.
ALVANDI Camera
7-Aug-2014, 11:11
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14609279729_154c13ea60_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ofYnTg)Dolomites 2 (https://flic.kr/p/ofYnTg) by Fredrick D. Fjeldsbø (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Very beatiful, Fredrick
ALVANDI Camera
7-Aug-2014, 11:13
Another morning. It should have been an holiday vacation, but I got up at 3:30 AM nearly every morning. Could not sleep while I was knowing that these colours show up on the other side of the curtain.
Tachihara 4x5, Ektar 100, 75mm Super Angulon, Drumscanner. I did NOT amp up the colour! Only RAW Scan and contrast after inverting with ColorNeg Plugin.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3855/14659674479_343f770ccd_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14659674479/)
Bornholm 6 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14659674479/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
Amazing
ALVANDI Camera
7-Aug-2014, 11:16
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55245071/photo/monte_baldo_sinar_velvia_rvp_50.jpg
Sinar 4x5, Schneider 180mm
Velvia RVP50, Tetenal E6
Amazing Vitality, I like it
Harley Goldman
7-Aug-2014, 14:39
That's a beautiful photo.
To each his own though. I hate Ektar - shooting and scanning it just doesn't work for me. I have better luck with slides and tweaking my development if needed to not get quite so deep shadows/density.
Same here. I have tried it. 80% of the time, I find it has a weird color cast that all my Photoshop tricks can't purge from a scan. I have not had good luck with the Kodak films.
Would it be too much to assume when people talk about 'Velvia' they are talking of the original 50 ASA version? There are a number of Velvia variants out there and I am of the opinion that being more specific might be more helpful for people referring to this thread in the future.
I believe the 100 version is a more forgiving film ?
:-)
I use both 50 and 100 speed versions of Velvia.
Of course there is also the 100 vs. 100F, and "old" 50 vs. "new" 50!
I use the old 50, new 50 and 100. I find 100 more forgiving, the old 50 has the best reds, new 50 has the best greens and all of them have too much contrast for a lot of different situations (for the way I shoot) I have a few mates and know of a hell of a lot of people who shoot velvia and just make it sing, for me, I need a couple of extra stops in harsh light to make an image worth showing.. I love velvia, in all its speeds (except 100F, if I wanted to shoot 100F I'd shoot Provia) but it is definitely not my first choice for a landscape film. WHEN the lighting is right for it, nothing else comes close....
I've been obsessing for a year or two, searching for a jetty with a strong underside... Clean, bold, symmetrical.
On a family holiday during the week I found exactly what I had been hoping for.
For this image, knowing exactly what I wanted to achieve, I was relentless under the dark cloth, I moved the tripod time and time again to get everything lined up just as I wanted it. I spent more time looking at the ground glass for this particular image than I ever have on any other image I've made with large format. Once I had my symmetry and focus nailed I metered a couple of times to be sure I'd get what I wanted and once I was finally happy, after implementing two grad filters to bring the tones down to where I wanted them. I exposed my sheet of Fomapan 100. This was the last sheet of 6 that I took on my trip... I had one shot to get it right. One shot to make the image I had been hoping to make for nearly a year... I am very happy to say I think I pulled it off...
Really interested on hearing some constructive criticisms on this please everyone. I am very happy with this, and consider it perhaps my best B/W neg to date.
"Strength"
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10592775_813349008715692_8875208825792289632_n.jpg
Fomapan 100 @ 100
Chamonix 045N-2
210mm f/5.6
40sec @ f/32
Dev: Rodinal 1:100, 50min, No Agitation, 20°C
Gorgeous! You have every reason to be happy with this photograph
StoneNYC
8-Aug-2014, 23:11
Nice! Sometimes the terrible reciprocity of Foma100 is actually really useful.
kev curry
8-Aug-2014, 23:24
Fantastic Alex.
Myxine - Thanks, I suppose the reason I was asking for other opinions is that because I've lusted after this shot for so long, its likely that I could look past any flaws it may have.
Stone - Too right, This metered as 6 sec F/32.3 I shot it at f/32, 40sec. at 6 sec, this would not have been the same image... I would have had to add another ND filter to gain some exposure time...
Kev - Thanks :)
StoneNYC
9-Aug-2014, 00:14
Myxine - Thanks, I suppose the reason I was asking for other opinions is that because I've lusted after this shot for so long, its likely that I could look past any flaws it may have.
Stone - Too right, This metered as 6 sec F/32.3 I shot it at f/32, 40sec. at 6 sec, this would not have been the same image... I would have had to add another ND filter to gain some exposure time...
Kev - Thanks :)
The ONLY flaw if you call it a flaw is I don't like how close to the edges of the frame the dock itself is, my eyes want it pulled back SLIGHTLY just a tiny bit, but my images suck compared to this so... I don't really know what I'm talking about... Lol
The original shot was actually composed a little looser than this image, however my film holder has a nice little light leak near the opening that encroached into the picture space.. I had no choice but to crop it tighter :(
Jeff Dexheimer
9-Aug-2014, 04:57
I think you nailed it. But, you should get some new film holders.
Already got new ones Jeff. :D just shot the film that was still in the oldies. Got a bunch of neat wooden chamonix holders in the rotation now.
Andrew Plume
9-Aug-2014, 05:28
great work Alex, congrat's etc etc
regards
andrew
Peter Mounier
9-Aug-2014, 08:21
I was thrown by your stated use of two grad filters. I can't see the affects in the pilings, or anywhere. After reading your reply to Stone, I think I see that you meant nd filters. It's really a nice clean shot, literally and figuratively. I for one appreciate it when the photographer takes the time to remove dust before pics are posted.
Very nice!
Very nice Alex!
Here another difficult Velvia shot. But I have to admit: Ektar comes nowhere close. Shot it in the same situation. The Velvia challenges the Scanner to its maximum
Tachihara 4x5, Velvia 50, 75mm, Drumscanner:
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3873/14683657120_0d4395f6a0_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14683657120/)
Bornholm 7 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14683657120/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
Harley Goldman
9-Aug-2014, 15:03
I've been obsessing for a year or two, searching for a jetty with a strong underside... Clean, bold, symmetrical.
On a family holiday during the week I found exactly what I had been hoping for.
For this image, knowing exactly what I wanted to achieve, I was relentless under the dark cloth, I moved the tripod time and time again to get everything lined up just as I wanted it. I spent more time looking at the ground glass for this particular image than I ever have on any other image I've made with large format. Once I had my symmetry and focus nailed I metered a couple of times to be sure I'd get what I wanted and once I was finally happy, after implementing two grad filters to bring the tones down to where I wanted them. I exposed my sheet of Fomapan 100. This was the last sheet of 6 that I took on my trip... I had one shot to get it right. One shot to make the image I had been hoping to make for nearly a year... I am very happy to say I think I pulled it off...
Really interested on hearing some constructive criticisms on this please everyone. I am very happy with this, and consider it perhaps my best B/W neg to date.
"Strength"
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10592775_813349008715692_8875208825792289632_n.jpg
Fomapan 100 @ 100
Chamonix 045N-2
210mm f/5.6
40sec @ f/32
Dev: Rodinal 1:100, 50min, No Agitation, 20°C
Beauty, Alex!!!! I love it.
I use the old 50, new 50 and 100. I find 100 more forgiving, the old 50 has the best reds, new 50 has the best greens and all of them have too much contrast for a lot of different situations (for the way I shoot) I have a few mates and know of a hell of a lot of people who shoot velvia and just make it sing, for me, I need a couple of extra stops in harsh light to make an image worth showing.. I love velvia, in all its speeds (except 100F, if I wanted to shoot 100F I'd shoot Provia) but it is definitely not my first choice for a landscape film. WHEN the lighting is right for it, nothing else comes close....
Gorgeous! Be very proud of it.
Jim Cole
9-Aug-2014, 17:15
Beauty, Alex!!!! I love it.
Agreed. Your set-up time shows.
Gary Tarbert
9-Aug-2014, 17:20
I've been obsessing for a year or two, searching for a jetty with a strong underside... Clean, bold, symmetrical.
On a family holiday during the week I found exactly what I had been hoping for.
For this image, knowing exactly what I wanted to achieve, I was relentless under the dark cloth, I moved the tripod time and time again to get everything lined up just as I wanted it. I spent more time looking at the ground glass for this particular image than I ever have on any other image I've made with large format. Once I had my symmetry and focus nailed I metered a couple of times to be sure I'd get what I wanted and once I was finally happy, after implementing two grad filters to bring the tones down to where I wanted them. I exposed my sheet of Fomapan 100. This was the last sheet of 6 that I took on my trip... I had one shot to get it right. One shot to make the image I had been hoping to make for nearly a year... I am very happy to say I think I pulled it off...
Really interested on hearing some constructive criticisms on this please everyone. I am very happy with this, and consider it perhaps my best B/W neg to date.
"Strength"
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10592775_813349008715692_8875208825792289632_n.jpg
Fomapan 100 @ 100
Chamonix 045N-2
210mm f/5.6
40sec @ f/32
Dev: Rodinal 1:100, 50min, No Agitation, 20°C Hi Alex , I would be happy with this for sure, Excellent work ,It's great when something you see in your minds eye comes together,My only minor nit is the hand rail holders at the very top both sides , But without photoshop trickery impossible to leave out . Cheers Gary
Thanks everyone! It means a lot to me to hear it's not just my connection to the image telling me its a good one :)
Peter Mounier - I used 2 ND Grads for the image, a 2 stop soft edge from the bottom up to add depth to the shadow reflections in the water, you can vaguely see the bottoms of the first pillars are darker than the tops of them.. The other was a 1 stop soft edge grad coming in from the top right hand side of the image, as the jetty is North facing, the sun was rising to the right hand side of the image, I needed the 1 stop soft grad to ensure the sky would appear uniform across the image.
Harley - I appreciate the comment, I have a lot of love for your work!
ndg - Thanks, I am!
Jim Cole - I think I finally understand what people have been telling me this past couple of years since I started shooting LF... "Take your time, Slow down..." this is the first time I have literally sat underneath the dark cloth just looking at the ground glass.. as if I was looking at the final print. Assessing the image, the balance, the sharpness.. Its also the first time that I've pulled a negative from the developing drum and not been surprised by something in the composition that I'd missed, or an element that was not where I'd hoped it would be... it came out looking exactly as I had wanted it to because I actually took the time to make sure it was what I wanted before firing the shutter... Its a good lesson learnt I think.
Gary - Thanks mate. You're the second person to bring up those posts, and to be honest, they didn't bother me when I was composing the shot, but now that its been mentioned twice I almost feel like I should clone them out in photoshop... I don't think I will just yet but when I get a print made of this I will definitely consider printing it without those posts...
Here another difficult Velvia shot. But I have to admit: Ektar comes nowhere close. Shot it in the same situation. The Velvia challenges the Scanner to its maximum
Tachihara 4x5, Velvia 50, 75mm, Drumscanner:
Yeah, that's some fine Velvia colors.
Personally, I feel like maybe the scanner was challenged because it seems underexposed? Of course I can't see the original transparency but that's just my feeling from looking at this.
Colorado CJ
9-Aug-2014, 19:42
I've been obsessing for a year or two, searching for a jetty with a strong underside... Clean, bold, symmetrical.
On a family holiday during the week I found exactly what I had been hoping for.
For this image, knowing exactly what I wanted to achieve, I was relentless under the dark cloth, I moved the tripod time and time again to get everything lined up just as I wanted it. I spent more time looking at the ground glass for this particular image than I ever have on any other image I've made with large format. Once I had my symmetry and focus nailed I metered a couple of times to be sure I'd get what I wanted and once I was finally happy, after implementing two grad filters to bring the tones down to where I wanted them. I exposed my sheet of Fomapan 100. This was the last sheet of 6 that I took on my trip... I had one shot to get it right. One shot to make the image I had been hoping to make for nearly a year... I am very happy to say I think I pulled it off...
Really interested on hearing some constructive criticisms on this please everyone. I am very happy with this, and consider it perhaps my best B/W neg to date.
"Strength"
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10592775_813349008715692_8875208825792289632_n.jpg
Fomapan 100 @ 100
Chamonix 045N-2
210mm f/5.6
40sec @ f/32
Dev: Rodinal 1:100, 50min, No Agitation, 20°C
Ooh, I really like that. I am a sucker for long exposure photography though. Very well done!
Colorado CJ
9-Aug-2014, 19:43
This was the first photo taken with my new (to me) Zone VI 4x5 camera. I rushed out to a local lake after unpacking it, anxious to try it out "in the field".
This is somewhat of a hybrid photo as it was scanned into the computer and worked on in photoshop a little. I think, with some practice, and a little luck I could achieve something similar in the darkroom, using toners and some burning/dodging and contrast papers.
Shot using a Nikkor SW 180mm F5.6 lens on Fomapan 200 at ISO 160 through a red filter. Processed in Rodinal at 50:1 for 8 minutes.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3867/14849547346_7c485ef906_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oCcP5o)An-Evening-by-the-Lake (https://flic.kr/p/oCcP5o) by Colorado CJ (https://www.flickr.com/people/55229792@N03/), on Flickr
BetterSense
9-Aug-2014, 19:55
I've been obsessing for a year or two, searching for a jetty with a strong underside... Clean, bold, symmetrical.
On a family holiday during the week I found exactly what I had been hoping for.
For this image, knowing exactly what I wanted to achieve, I was relentless under the dark cloth, I moved the tripod time and time again to get everything lined up just as I wanted it. I spent more time looking at the ground glass for this particular image than I ever have on any other image I've made with large format. Once I had my symmetry and focus nailed I metered a couple of times to be sure I'd get what I wanted and once I was finally happy, after implementing two grad filters to bring the tones down to where I wanted them. I exposed my sheet of Fomapan 100. This was the last sheet of 6 that I took on my trip... I had one shot to get it right. One shot to make the image I had been hoping to make for nearly a year... I am very happy to say I think I pulled it off...
Really interested on hearing some constructive criticisms on this please everyone. I am very happy with this, and consider it perhaps my best B/W neg to date.
"Strength"
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10592775_813349008715692_8875208825792289632_n.jpg
Fomapan 100 @ 100
Chamonix 045N-2
210mm f/5.6
40sec @ f/32
Dev: Rodinal 1:100, 50min, No Agitation, 20°C
The edge effects of the Rodinal stand development are conspicuous here, sucj as around the pillars. It is a bold image so it works ok here.
StoneNYC
9-Aug-2014, 20:27
Yeah, that's some fine Velvia colors.
Personally, I feel like maybe the scanner was challenged because it seems underexposed? Of course I can't see the original transparency but that's just my feeling from looking at this.
That's what I was thinking, slight under exposure by 1/2 stop maybe even a full stop?
Alan Gales
9-Aug-2014, 20:42
That's what I was thinking, slight under exposure by 1/2 stop maybe even a full stop?
I'd say at least a full stop but of course we are not looking at the original transparency.
Pretty shot if it can be brought out.
Daniel Stone
9-Aug-2014, 21:42
I've found that Velvia NEEDS to be exposed EXACTLY for optimum results. I usually rate it @ ASA40(so a 1/3 overexposure from box speed), as I've found that for me and the lab that I use for my E6 processing, ASA40 provides an easier-to-scan, slightly lighter(but still has good, easily "recovered" highlight detail as long as I've exposed it correctly from the start.
I also get my spot meter calibrated on a yearly basis. I don't photograph much these days, due to time constraints, but when I go out, I don't want to bring home film that'll just end up in the trash can. Call me persnickety, but I don't want to waste my time on ho-hum shots. When shooting Velvia 50, I carry a "correction card" that shows corrections for color and/or density based on testing a sheet or two when I buy a batch(last time was a few years ago, and will probably be the last couple boxes I'll use, as Ektar 100 scans beautifully, and allows me to shoot w/o ND grads most of the time(one less thing to worry about in the field!)
Scanning CAN allow one to have some control over density in post-production, but Velvia 50 is harder(IMO) to correct if not exposed within 1/2 stop of a "perfect" exposure +/-. Blocked-up shadows that cannot be fully recovered without going to sh** is a very real possibility, so testing of shadow clipping points(basically where I know shadows will block up without any discernible detail)
A harder film to truly master, but once you're dialed in, you're dialed in. Technical proficiency is key with Velveeta 50, but then again, if you can master shooting transparency film, color neg will be a piece of cake; b/w too!
-Dan
Hey everyone! Very interesting discussion.
The slide looks exactly like that on a very bright lighttable with masking the areas arround it. The scanner brought out everything thats in there.
But Im not shure if we can rate it undeexposed. You havent been there. This is nearly a night shot. It was taken about 30 minutes after sunset, and it was really dark. The thin clouds brought out the last gloom of light, so in my feeling the slide matches the scene. The exposure time was around 4 minutes. I'm not shure if more exposure would have killed this mood but probably you are right and 1/2 a stop more would have been better.
Very interesting to hear, how someone sees a picture like this, who was not there. Seems a significant difference, because I like it and think about printing.
I appreciate your opinion very much because its absolutely important to see the own pictures through the eyes of an uninvolved person. Thank you all for your comments!
Alan Gales
9-Aug-2014, 23:28
Hey everyone! Very interesting discussion.
The slide looks exactly like that on a very bright lighttable with masking the areas arround it. The scanner brought out everything thats in there.
But Im not shure if we can rate it undeexposed. You havent been there. This is nearly a night shot. It was taken about 30 minutes after sunset, and it was really dark. The thin clouds brought out the last gloom of light, so in my feeling the slide matches the scene. The exposure time was around 4 minutes. I'm not shure if more exposure would have killed this mood but probably you are right and 1/2 a stop more would have been better.
Very interesting to hear, how someone sees a picture like this, who was not there. Seems a significant difference, because I like it and think about printing.
I appreciate your opinion very much because its absolutely important to see the own pictures through the eyes of an uninvolved person. Thank you all for your comments!
It's a nice shot. What you are saying makes perfect sense. If it was me I would reshoot it a little bit earlier in the day to avoid the shadows blocking out.
Alan Gales
9-Aug-2014, 23:33
I've found that Velvia NEEDS to be exposed EXACTLY for optimum results. I usually rate it @ ASA40(so a 1/3 overexposure from box speed), as I've found that for me and the lab that I use for my E6 processing, ASA40 provides an easier-to-scan, slightly lighter(but still has good, easily "recovered" highlight detail as long as I've exposed it correctly from the start.
I also get my spot meter calibrated on a yearly basis. I don't photograph much these days, due to time constraints, but when I go out, I don't want to bring home film that'll just end up in the trash can. Call me persnickety, but I don't want to waste my time on ho-hum shots. When shooting Velvia 50, I carry a "correction card" that shows corrections for color and/or density based on testing a sheet or two when I buy a batch(last time was a few years ago, and will probably be the last couple boxes I'll use, as Ektar 100 scans beautifully, and allows me to shoot w/o ND grads most of the time(one less thing to worry about in the field!)
Scanning CAN allow one to have some control over density in post-production, but Velvia 50 is harder(IMO) to correct if not exposed within 1/2 stop of a "perfect" exposure +/-. Blocked-up shadows that cannot be fully recovered without going to sh** is a very real possibility, so testing of shadow clipping points(basically where I know shadows will block up without any discernible detail)
A harder film to truly master, but once you're dialed in, you're dialed in. Technical proficiency is key with Velveeta 50, but then again, if you can master shooting transparency film, color neg will be a piece of cake; b/w too!
-Dan
I don't shoot much Velvia but what you are saying reminds me of when I used to shoot Kodachrome and print Cibachrome. Sometimes it was a bitch but when you got it right it was beautiful.
Noting that something may be underexposed doesn't have anything to do with liking it or not.
My feeling is that "real life" and the photograph of it are two very different things, especially with regard to long-exposures / night shooting. For an extreme example, think about long-exposures with star trails. Nothing looks like that in real life but it's a different experience photographically to do 2-4 hour exposures or whatever to get the image. Just because it was after sunset, for me personally, doesn't mean the slide should be dark, but that's my aesthetic and you obviously differ in opinion, which is fine.
And here we are only discussing exposure...not composition, subject matter, etc.
You are right, I tiny bit more exposure would have been better. Unfortunately Vacation is over and the moment is gone. But thats analogue photography. I love it ;-)
Another example:
Velvia 50, Tachihara, 75mm, Drumscanner
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5594/14688141079_a2e858fecf_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14688141079/)
Bornholm 8 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14688141079/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
Sdzsdz : you do some amazing work on rvp50. It is impossible not to fall in love with rvp50 when you see good results. For me, the only turn off is the hit ratio for good exposures. Not th films fault. Rather, my lack of practice exposing it.
StoneNYC
10-Aug-2014, 07:26
I'm going to start using Velvia100 and see how it goes, mostly because it's more difficult to get Velvia50 in the US without jumping through hoops, if I can get similar results, I'll stick to that instead.
Thomas Greutmann
10-Aug-2014, 09:01
Back from a three week trip to Norway and busy developing and scanning.
Sognefjord and Urnes stave church, World Cultural Heritage
http://blackandwhitegallery.de/var/albums/ORTE---PLACES/Sognefjord/000982-fi-urnes-stave-church.jpg?m=1407685561
Linhof Master Technika with Symmar-S 150mm, TMAX 400 developed in XTOL 1:1
Greetings, Thomas
kabbott
11-Aug-2014, 06:17
http://karlabbott.smugmug.com/Landscapes-and-Nature/USA-North-Carolina/Mountains-July-2014/i-njX83Nk/0/XL/scan0004%20copy-Edit-XL.jpg
Cowee Mountains Overlook Sunset in North Carolina - Kodak Ektar 100
Nana Sousa Dias
11-Aug-2014, 06:21
Here is one or two from my razzle
http://www.aparaty.tradycyjne.net/konkurs/14026579451788.jpg
http://www.aparaty.tradycyjne.net/konkurs/13965297981401.jpg
Both beautiful.
Jmarmck
11-Aug-2014, 06:21
Very nice Thomas. Great DOF. I find myself wondering if the image would be as powerful without the branch.
@ kabbott - This is very nice also great light gradient awash with the colors of the sunset/sunrise.
Nana Sousa Dias
11-Aug-2014, 06:26
119720
Shen Hao HZX 45 IIA, Schneider SA 90 XL, Velvia 50, developed on Jobo ATL 2, Epson V700.
Jmarmck
11-Aug-2014, 06:46
Though shot Nana. Well done. Is this a high mountain lake with low lands in the background. I like it very much.
Nana Sousa Dias
11-Aug-2014, 07:21
Though shot Nana. Well done. Is this a high mountain lake with low lands in the background. I like it very much.
Thanks, this is an extint vulcano, the background is the sea. This is located at S. Miguel island, at Azores, middle of Atlantic Ocean, portuguese land, between Portugal and USA. There are 9 islands at Azores, all of them beautiful.
StoneNYC
11-Aug-2014, 08:06
119720
Shen Hao HZX 45 IIA, Schneider SA 90 XL, Velvia 50, developed on Jobo ATL 2, Epson V700.
Just wow!!!! Increadible!!!!
How much movement was involved to get the plant life on the foreground in focus? It's something I've been struggling with lately on a few shots...
Nana Sousa Dias
11-Aug-2014, 09:30
Just wow!!!! Increadible!!!!
How much movement was involved to get the plant life on the foreground in focus? It's something I've been struggling with lately on a few shots...
Stone, I didn't use any movements on this one, but I closed the lens to f32 and focused a bit front of the plants.
Nana Sousa Dias
11-Aug-2014, 09:33
119725
Wista 45 DX, Nikon W 150/5.6, Velvia 50, Jobo ATL 2, Epson V700.
Nana Sousa Dias
11-Aug-2014, 09:36
119726
Wista 45 DX, Fuji SWD 90/5.6, Kodak Tmax 100, Epson 3780.
DennisD
11-Aug-2014, 10:17
119720
Shen Hao HZX 45 IIA, Schneider SA 90 XL, Velvia 50, developed on Jobo ATL 2, Epson V700.
Beautiful shot. The color is exquisite and the touch of red (flowers) in the foreground adds perfection !
Nana Sousa Dias
11-Aug-2014, 10:19
Beautiful shot. The color is exquisite and the touch of red (flowers) in the foreground adds perfection !
Thanks, Dennis.
Thomas Greutmann
11-Aug-2014, 11:37
Thank you Marty-
One more from Norway, land of waterfalls. This one is called Drivandefossen located in the Morkridsdalen, half an hour of steep climb with heavy camera gear.
http://blackandwhitegallery.de/var/albums/ORTE---PLACES/Sognefjord/000992-fi-drivandefossen-waterfall.jpg?m=1407781723
Linhof Master Technika with Symmar-S 150mm, TMAX 400 developed in XTOL 1:1
Greetings, Thomas
Back from a three week trip to Norway and busy developing and scanning.
Sognefjord and Urnes stave church, World Cultural Heritage
http://blackandwhitegallery.de/var/albums/ORTE---PLACES/Sognefjord/000982-fi-urnes-stave-church.jpg?m=1407685561
Linhof Master Technika with Symmar-S 150mm, TMAX 400 developed in XTOL 1:1
Greetings, Thomas
Excellent composition. Maybe high lights in the sky but there is detail in wood's church. Very difficult photo for me.
StoneNYC
11-Aug-2014, 14:43
Stone, I didn't use any movements on this one, but I closed the lens to f32 and focused a bit front of the plants.
Thanks!
StoneNYC
11-Aug-2014, 14:44
119726
Wista 45 DX, Fuji SWD 90/5.6, Kodak Tmax 100, Epson 3780.
Beautiful!
Jim Cole
11-Aug-2014, 15:57
119726
Wista 45 DX, Fuji SWD 90/5.6, Kodak Tmax 100, Epson 3780.
Yeah, Nana's back! Another outstanding capture.
Nana Sousa Dias
11-Aug-2014, 16:22
Yeah, Nana's back! Another outstanding capture.
Thanks, Jim
I'm not back, this is a very old photo, I think from 2003 or 2004...the truth is that I have nothing new!!!!! Rsrsrsrsrrsrs....
Jim Cole
11-Aug-2014, 16:27
Thanks, Jim
I'm not back, this is a very old photo, I think from 2003 or 2004...the true is that I have nothing new!!!!! Rsrsrsrsrrsrs....
Regardless, it's new for us and it's nice to see you posting again.
StoneNYC
11-Aug-2014, 16:39
Thanks, Jim
I'm not back, this is a very old photo, I think from 2003 or 2004...the truth is that I have nothing new!!!!! Rsrsrsrsrrsrs....
Why not? Have you stopped shooting LF??
Nana Sousa Dias
11-Aug-2014, 18:14
Regardless, it's new for us and it's nice to see you posting again.
Thanks for the kind words, Jim, I'll try to shoot something new, soon.
Nana Sousa Dias
11-Aug-2014, 18:21
Why not? Have you stopped shooting LF??
No Stone, I've been working more in music than photography, nowadays. I stil shoot MF, GF, digital and even 35mm but not so often. Anyway, things are not well in Europe, and especially, in Portugal....I had to sell my Pentax 67 and 645 system, with 7 lenses, my Rolleiflex, my Fuji GA 645 Wi and some more stuff. But I still own my SH HZX 45 IIA, my homemade NSD 45 PS and a Hasselblad 500 C/M, as well as some old folding MF cameras. Now you must be thinking that it's not an excuse...and you're right!!!! rsrsrsrrsrsrs....I still own a lot of cameras to shoot whatever I want!
StoneNYC
11-Aug-2014, 21:07
No Stone, I've been working more in music than photography, nowadays. I stil shoot MF, GF, digital and even 35mm but not so often. Anyway, things are not well in Europe, and especially, in Portugal....I had to sell my Pentax 67 and 645 system, with 7 lenses, my Rolleiflex, my Fuji GA 645 Wi and some more stuff. But I still own my SH HZX 45 IIA, my homemade NSD 45 PS and a Hasselblad 500 C/M, as well as some old folding MF cameras. Now you must be thinking that it's not an excuse...and you're right!!!! rsrsrsrrsrsrs....I still own a lot of cameras to shoot whatever I want!
Well work is more important so that your cameras have a roof over their heads.
But I've only seen one image, but I can't imagine that if all your work is that good, that you couldn't make a living off of it...
http://www.koraks.nl/galleries/series/the_moors_on_4x5/RHGB45_141_04.jpg
Schneider 210, Fomapan 100, Rodinal, 4990 scan
Holdenrichards
12-Aug-2014, 05:41
119726
Wista 45 DX, Fuji SWD 90/5.6, Kodak Tmax 100, Epson 3780.
Lovely lovely
Nana Sousa Dias
12-Aug-2014, 08:23
Well work is more important so that your cameras have a roof over their heads.
But I've only seen one image, but I can't imagine that if all your work is that good, that you couldn't make a living off of it...
Ahahahahah, I wish you were right but, I don't think I'm that good! I sold a few photographs but not enough to make a living. I teach landscape, studio portrait and darkroom but, I'm a professional saxophone player for 35 years, too. If you have the time, see my photos here: www.nanasousadias.com
Tin Can
12-Aug-2014, 09:02
Nana, those images are too good to sell, you are correct in keeping them. :)
It's like love, sometimes nobody wants it!
Ahahahahah, I wish you were right but, I don't think I'm that good! I sold a few photographs but not enough to make a living. I teach landscape, studio portrait and darkroom but, I'm a professional saxophone player for 35 years, too. If you have the time, see my photos here: www.nanasousadias.com
StoneNYC
12-Aug-2014, 10:41
Ahahahahah, I wish you were right but, I don't think I'm that good! I sold a few photographs but not enough to make a living. I teach landscape, studio portrait and darkroom but, I'm a professional saxophone player for 35 years, too. If you have the time, see my photos here: www.nanasousadias.com
All very nice wide 'scapes, and even though you're very good, I will still tease you with the idiom "if you can't do, teach" hehe, but perhaps you're like me and just suck at the business and marketing part.
Nana Sousa Dias
12-Aug-2014, 11:37
Nana, those images are too good to sell, you are correct in keeping them. :)
It's like love, sometimes nobody wants it!
;)
Nana Sousa Dias
12-Aug-2014, 11:39
All very nice wide 'scapes, and even though you're very good, I will still tease you with the idiom "if you can't do, teach" hehe, but perhaps you're like me and just suck at the business and marketing part.
Well, here, there aren't any agents for selling photographs, so, it's hard.
StoneNYC
12-Aug-2014, 11:50
Well, here, there aren't any agents for selling photographs, so, it's hard.
When you find some let me know ;)
Nana Sousa Dias
12-Aug-2014, 11:57
When you find some let me know ;)
In NY you will find a lot of them ;)
StoneNYC
12-Aug-2014, 14:06
In NY you will find a lot of them ;)
I live in CT lol, the NY thing was long time ago. Thanks :) when you find the time, get out there! :)
Steve M Hostetter
13-Aug-2014, 10:09
119824 The Hills, 8x10" fuji chrome in Tetenal 6:45 min. 3 bath
Steve M Hostetter
13-Aug-2014, 10:10
119825 8x10" Fujichrome in Tetenal 6:45 min. 3 bath
Thomas Greutmann
13-Aug-2014, 11:30
Excellent composition. Maybe high lights in the sky but there is detail in wood's church. Very difficult photo for me.
Thank you Omar.
Thanks for the composition should actually go to mother nature and the builders of the church, who arranged the setup. I just stumbled by and took the picture...
Greetings, Thomas
Old_Dick
13-Aug-2014, 11:41
Hi Nanã,
I presume that is you on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ky_R86mgudY? Very impressive.
IBBY
Dick
Jim Cole
13-Aug-2014, 12:28
Holy smokes. Great photographer and a really accomplished jazz saxophonist. That was awesome.
Jmarmck
13-Aug-2014, 12:40
Wow, Jean Luc Ponty with a sax. Very nice indeed. (That bassist wears me out.)
Hi Nanã,
I presume that is you on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ky_R86mgudY? Very impressive.
IBBY
Dick
Nana Sousa Dias
13-Aug-2014, 13:33
Thanks, Guys, that's me, on a tv show, about 60 pounds ago!!! Marty, that bass player is Yuri Daniel, he is playing now in norwegian saxophonist Yan Garbarek's band.
Here is something from this year...the sound is not very good, it was recorded on the camera.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJAwaonlTnU
Jmarmck
13-Aug-2014, 14:12
Nice! They should find a good studio.........you should too.
Nana Sousa Dias
13-Aug-2014, 14:20
Nice! They should find a good studio.........you should too.
Marty, I had my own studio for 15 years, that's why I stoped playing... now, I'm back but not prepared to record...yet! ;) this was just a small gig...
StoneNYC
13-Aug-2014, 15:41
119825 8x10" Fujichrome in Tetenal 6:45 min. 3 bath
What kind of Fuji chrome? The colors look very muted, much different then any Fuji I've seen.
Steve M Hostetter
14-Aug-2014, 06:59
Stone, not sure but the image on the lightbox is much different very saturated .. It came out of a 50 D RFP box.. It says on the edge but to small for me to see it
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5557/14916715535_ddf09f117f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oJ94QB)
Głodówka view point (https://flic.kr/p/oJ94QB) by JaZ99wro (https://www.flickr.com/people/31584189@N02/), on Flickr
Graflex 4x5
Caltar 150/5.6
Velvia 100F, expired
Geotagged
StoneNYC
14-Aug-2014, 08:15
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5557/14916715535_ddf09f117f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oJ94QB)
Głodówka view point (https://flic.kr/p/oJ94QB) by JaZ99wro (https://www.flickr.com/people/31584189@N02/), on Flickr
Graflex 4x5
Caltar 150/5.6
Velvia 100F, expired
Geotagged
Nice shot :) love the blue mountains.
StoneNYC
14-Aug-2014, 08:16
Stone, not sure but the image on the lightbox is much different very saturated .. It came out of a 50 D RFP box.. It says on the edge but to small for me to see it
Gotcha, totally makes sense now, probably a scanner issue, Fuji is notorious for heavy saturation so that's why I was confused, thanks!
Nice shot :) love the blue mountains.
Thank you! Still learning LF...
RHITMrB
14-Aug-2014, 09:45
Gotcha, totally makes sense now, probably a scanner issue, Fuji is notorious for heavy saturation so that's why I was confused, thanks!
Google tells me 50 D RFP was similar to Astia, which is not known for "heavy saturation."
Peter Gomena
14-Aug-2014, 09:55
I'm currently working my way through a 50-sheet box of Fuji 50 RFP that expired in 1985. It spent its entire life in a friend's freezer. Incredibly, it has retained good speed, color and d-max even though it was manufactured 30 years ago. I find it is a very saturated emulsion with good highlight separation and relatively poor shadow detail. It does not have nearly as lively a color palette as Velvia, but it is beautiful in its own way. It was replaced by Velvia in about 1988-89 if I remember correctly.
StoneNYC
14-Aug-2014, 10:17
Google tells me 50 D RFP was similar to Astia, which is not known for "heavy saturation."
Yes but even Astia wasn't DULL. The image was less than normal saturation, Astia is known for a more muted and natural saturation but not a DULL one. Anyway as the poster says it looks more colorful on the light box so my perception seems correct.
ALVANDI Camera
15-Aug-2014, 11:20
You are right, I tiny bit more exposure would have been better. Unfortunately Vacation is over and the moment is gone. But thats analogue photography. I love it ;-)
Another example:
Velvia 50, Tachihara, 75mm, Drumscanner
Amazing
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5594/14688141079_a2e858fecf_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14688141079/)
Bornholm 8 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14688141079/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
ALVANDI Camera
15-Aug-2014, 11:43
Wild flowers in Shurab village
Iran, Tehran, Savadkuh, Panoral 45 camera, Schneider Super Angulon 75/5.6, center filter IIIC, Fuji Velvia 50 6x12cm roll film
119972
RHITMrB
15-Aug-2014, 13:59
Yes but even Astia wasn't DULL. The image was less than normal saturation, Astia is known for a more muted and natural saturation but not a DULL one. Anyway as the poster says it looks more colorful on the light box so my perception seems correct.
Depends on the lighting! My Astia slides taken on overcast days are noticeably less saturated than those taken on cloudless days. :)
AtlantaTerry
16-Aug-2014, 00:46
Depends on the lighting! My Astia slides taken on overcast days are noticeably less saturated than those taken on cloudless days. :)
May I point out unless your transparencies are in cardboard, glass or metal slide projector mounts, then they can not be called slides. They are simply, "transparencies".
RHITMrB
16-Aug-2014, 11:28
May I point out unless your transparencies are in cardboard, glass or metal slide projector mounts, then they can not be called slides. They are simply, "transparencies".
This may be a large format focused forum, but Astia came in 35mm, too ;)
Nana, really nice picture with perfect exposure!
Here two shots on Ektar. Both were exposed quite long, the first one about 8min, the second about 14min because it was about 30min after sunset. Tachihara 4x5, 75mm, Drumscanner Scanmate 11000.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3876/14908439965_ba2a0bb9eb_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14908439965/)
Bornholm 7 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14908439965/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5552/14751447000_41a7563a9c_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14751447000/)
Bornholm 9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14751447000/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
Jim Cole
16-Aug-2014, 11:53
Those work!
Heroique
16-Aug-2014, 12:19
Here two shots on Ektar...
Ausgezeichnet!
(Trans. "Pretty darn good images from our German friend if I do say so myself!")
They even deserve a place in two additional threads – "Rocks and Stones" + "Water's Edge."
Really love that first sdzsdz, the second is nicely exposed etc, however I'm not too keen on the foreground for some reason.. I think the 2nd one would work better if cropped square, so those two prominent foreground rocks were close to the bottom edge of the image.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/14758417259_99bcb18164_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ou9KgZ)
Morskie oko (https://flic.kr/p/ou9KgZ) by JaZ99wro (https://www.flickr.com/people/31584189@N02/), on Flickr
Graflex 4x5
Fujinon 105/5.6
CDUII with 85A filter
Geotagged
Jmarmck
17-Aug-2014, 06:42
Very nice. What is the red and white on the boulder lower center left? I'm having trouble with scale.
StoneNYC
17-Aug-2014, 08:47
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/14758417259_99bcb18164_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ou9KgZ)
Morskie oko (https://flic.kr/p/ou9KgZ) by JaZ99wro (https://www.flickr.com/people/31584189@N02/), on Flickr
Graflex 4x5
Fujinon 105/5.6
CDUII with 85A filter
Geotagged
Cool! CDUII done really well, that's awesome you can get this type of image, makes me want to snag some...
Very nice. What is the red and white on the boulder lower center left? I'm having trouble with scale.
Thanks! This is a foot trail mark. It is a quite small, 15x9 cm or so.
Cool! CDUII done really well, that's awesome you can get this type of image, makes me want to snag some...
Thank you. It is easy to correct some issues with LR as long as you don't use 85B filter, only 85A.
I do not understand CDUII fully yet, but it is dirt cheap, good for learning LF stuff. ;-)
StoneNYC
17-Aug-2014, 10:05
Thanks! This is a foot trail mark. It is a quite small, 15x9 cm or so.
Thank you. It is easy to correct some issues with LR as long as you don't use 85B filter, only 85A.
I do not understand CDUII fully yet, but it is dirt cheap, good for learning LF stuff. ;-)
Why not 85B that's all I own! Lol
Both are stunningly beautiful images!
finarphin
17-Aug-2014, 19:34
Once in a while I get back to Yosemite. I can't go and not take pictures. So I tried again with Half Dome, my objective being to achieve sharpness and a good range in tone, for once.
Bender 8x10, with 12 inch component of a Turner Reich 12-21-28 triple convertible lens. Red filter. Kodak Tmax 400.
Comments welcome. Thank you.
120090
StoneNYC
17-Aug-2014, 19:48
Once in a while I get back to Yosemite. I can't go and not take pictures. So I tried again with Half Dome, my objective being to achieve sharpness and a good range in tone, for once.
Bender 8x10, with 12 inch component of a Turner Reich 12-21-28 triple convertible lens. Red filter. Kodak Tmax 400.
Comments welcome. Thank you.
120090
Pretty sure you nailed that one... Also, Tmax400 in 8x10? I salute you sir! Way beyond my pockets lol
Colorado CJ
17-Aug-2014, 22:06
Just a photo I took this morning with my 4x5 large format camera. This one was taken about 10 minutes from home, in "The Narrows" area of the Big Thompson Canyon.
The rock walls are full of crystalline structures, so they really shine when the light hits them right.
I'm starting to get the hang of the large format camera. It is VERY different than shooting with a digital camera and even much different than other film cameras. I used front tilt and rise on this shot since I had to shoot upwards and needed to change the perspective to get the rock walls upright again instead of looking like they were "falling away". This image would be impossible to get to look this way without using a camera that has movements. The perspective would just be too off.
Anyway. this was taken with a Zone VI 4x5 large format camera on Fomapan 200 film. Shot using a Nikkor SW 180mm F5.6 lens through a red 25A filter. Processed in HC-110 (dilution H) for 9 minutes.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3861/14768094699_3525c1215c_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ov1m3p)Life on the Edge (https://flic.kr/p/ov1m3p) by Colorado CJ (https://www.flickr.com/people/55229792@N03/), on Flickr
Why not 85B that's all I own! Lol
You have to ask fujifilm ;-)
With 85A filter, the chromes looks quite normal on the light table, with low contrast.
85B gives you blue cast on the light table. It can be corrected in post, but this is beyond capabilities of LR or my
knowledge.
StoneNYC
17-Aug-2014, 22:47
You have to ask fujifilm ;-)
With 85A filter, the chromes looks quite normal on the light table, with low contrast.
85B gives you blue cast on the light table. It can be corrected in post, but this is beyond capabilities of LR or my
knowledge.
That doesn't make sense, I thought the 85A was a WEAKER warmth than the 85B... I'm too tired to look it up now, thanks I'll look into it.
RSalles
18-Aug-2014, 06:13
Just a photo I took this morning with my 4x5 large format camera. This one was taken about 10 minutes from home, in "The Narrows" area of the Big Thompson Canyon.
The rock walls are full of crystalline structures, so they really shine when the light hits them right.
I'm starting to get the hang of the large format camera. It is VERY different than shooting with a digital camera and even much different than other film cameras. I used front tilt and rise on this shot since I had to shoot upwards and needed to change the perspective to get the rock walls upright again instead of looking like they were "falling away". This image would be impossible to get to look this way without using a camera that has movements. The perspective would just be too off.
Anyway. this was taken with a Zone VI 4x5 large format camera on Fomapan 200 film. Shot using a Nikkor SW 180mm F5.6 lens through a red 25A filter. Processed in HC-110 (dilution H) for 9 minutes.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3861/14768094699_3525c1215c_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ov1m3p)Life on the Edge (https://flic.kr/p/ov1m3p) by Colorado CJ (https://www.flickr.com/people/55229792@N03/), on Flickr
Beautiful shot, ColoradoCJ,
One thing that I love in Foma films is their tonal range, what I hate in it it's the reciprocity ratio... I could use much more this film, but because of this, only in strong sunshine light.
Cheers,
Renato
Nana Sousa Dias
18-Aug-2014, 07:10
Beautiful...
Nana Sousa Dias
18-Aug-2014, 07:11
Nana, really nice picture with perfect exposure!
Here two shots on Ektar. Both were exposed quite long, the first one about 8min, the second about 14min because it was about 30min after sunset. Tachihara 4x5, 75mm, Drumscanner Scanmate 11000.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3876/14908439965_ba2a0bb9eb_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14908439965/)
Bornholm 7 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14908439965/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5552/14751447000_41a7563a9c_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14751447000/)
Bornholm 9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/88626385@N03/14751447000/) von sdzsdz (https://www.flickr.com/people/88626385@N03/) auf Flickr
Thanks, these two of yours are beautiful.
Colorado CJ
18-Aug-2014, 17:05
Beautiful shot, ColoradoCJ,
One thing that I love in Foma films is their tonal range, what I hate in it it's the reciprocity ratio... I could use much more this film, but because of this, only in strong sunshine light.
Cheers,
Renato
Thanks Renato. By the way, are you the same Renato from MFLenses forum?
I really like the Foma films as well. I am starting to get dialed in on my processing and shooting of Foma 200. I REALLY like what I am getting from my development now using HC-110. It took a while though (~50 sheets). I need to order more.
cajunc2
18-Aug-2014, 18:21
A pair from Cape Henlopen State Park in Lewes, DE. Still getting the hang of this large format thing. ;)
Shot on a Crown Graphic with a 162mm/4.5 lens. Clearly it doesn't care much for full rise! I think I may need to find an alternative to the "taco method" for developing too...
http://www.mmartin-photo.com/misc/largeformat/henlopen.jpg
http://www.mmartin-photo.com/misc/largeformat/henlopen2.jpg
StoneNYC
19-Aug-2014, 02:12
A pair from Cape Henlopen State Park in Lewes, DE. Still getting the hang of this large format thing. ;)
Shot on a Crown Graphic with a 162mm/4.5 lens. Clearly it doesn't care much for full rise! I think I may need to find an alternative to the "taco method" for developing too...
http://www.mmartin-photo.com/misc/largeformat/henlopen.jpg
http://www.mmartin-photo.com/misc/largeformat/henlopen2.jpg
What film is this? Reminds me of some old GAF I used to shoot.
What film is this? Reminds me of some old GAF I used to shoot.
I'd guess arista 100; let's see.
Cajunc2; I really like the compositions on these and it's a good start! Some improvement could also be had by eliminating dust by keeping your film holders in anti-static or at least non-static plastic bags when they are not in the camera, and blowing out the interior of the camera once in a great while.
RSalles
19-Aug-2014, 06:39
Thanks Renato. By the way, are you the same Renato from MFLenses forum?
I really like the Foma films as well. I am starting to get dialed in on my processing and shooting of Foma 200. I REALLY like what I am getting from my development now using HC-110. It took a while though (~50 sheets). I need to order more.
Hi, Andrew,
yes the same old guy!
Cheers,
Renato
cajunc2
19-Aug-2014, 06:53
What film is this? Reminds me of some old GAF I used to shoot.
Film is Ilford FP4+ souped in D76 1+1.
cajunc2
19-Aug-2014, 07:00
I'd guess arista 100; let's see.
Cajunc2; I really like the compositions on these and it's a good start! Some improvement could also be had by eliminating dust by keeping your film holders in anti-static or at least non-static plastic bags when they are not in the camera, and blowing out the interior of the camera once in a great while.
Indeed, I'm pretty careless when it comes to dust and such. Good idea about the anti-static bags for keeping film holders. I just had a couple of them rattling around in the car for the trip. Heh.
premortho
19-Aug-2014, 07:02
Beautiful shot, ColoradoCJ,
One thing that I love in Foma films is their tonal range, what I hate in it it's the reciprocity ratio... I could use much more this film, but because of this, only in strong sunshine light.
Cheers,
Renato I love that tonal range. I use a tripod, so long exposures don't bother me. I would never give up that tonal range for an improved reciprocity ratio. Everytime something gets "improved", you have to give up something else to get it. In this case, I'll just take what it's got, and be thankful the stuff is available.
premortho
19-Aug-2014, 07:07
That doesn't make sense, I thought the 85A was a WEAKER warmth than the 85B... I'm too tired to look it up now, thanks I'll look into it.
It IS weaker, that's why it works. The 85B is too strong and over does the blue cast.
Nana Sousa Dias
19-Aug-2014, 07:31
I love that tonal range. I use a tripod, so long exposures don't bother me. I would never give up that tonal range for an improved reciprocity ratio. Everytime something gets "improved", you have to give up something else to get it. In this case, I'll just take what it's got, and be thankful the stuff is available.
I love Foma 100 for 4x5" but the problem of this film huge reprocity failure is not solved with a tripod. When you have a lightmeter reading of 1 minute exposure, you have to shoot with a 16 minute exposure!!!! If you are shooting something after sunset, during winter, during the 16 minute exposure, the light falls down at a value that would need not a 16 minute exposure but something like 1 hour exposure and, then, there is no light at all. It's a good film for bright light. For those after sunset photos during winter, I don't know nothing better than Fuji Acros 100, but it is fucking expensive...I tried it at 4 minute exposure, during night, with no exposure compensation and the image is perfect, with no developing compensation, too.
This is a spectacular photograph. I love it!
-Daniel
119726
Wista 45 DX, Fuji SWD 90/5.6, Kodak Tmax 100, Epson 3780.
StoneNYC
19-Aug-2014, 09:00
Film is Ilford FP4+ souped in D76 1+1.
Oh wow, I didn't know FP4+ could have that look, nice job!
StoneNYC
19-Aug-2014, 09:04
It IS weaker, that's why it works. The 85B is too strong and over does the blue cast.
85B has a heavier "orange" tone to WARM the image so for example on Tungsten film which ends up blue if NO filter is used, looks normal if a filter is used, so my tiny brain is not understanding why it would look MORE blue with a stronger warming filter... Please help me understand I don't get it.
StoneNYC
19-Aug-2014, 09:05
I love Foma 100 for 4x5" but the problem of this film huge reprocity failure is not solved with a tripod. When you have a lightmeter reading of 1 minute exposure, you have to shoot with a 16 minute exposure!!!! If you are shooting something after sunset, during winter, during the 16 minute exposure, the light falls down at a value that would need not a 16 minute exposure but something like 1 hour exposure and, then, there is no light at all. It's a good film for bright light. For those after sunset photos during winter, I don't know nothing better than Fuji Acros 100, but it is fucking expensive...I tried it at 4 minute exposure, during night, with no exposure compensation and the image is perfect, with no developing compensation, too.
Agreed
cajunc2
19-Aug-2014, 09:58
Oh wow, I didn't know FP4+ could have that look, nice job!
Not sure if it makes much difference, but the first was shot through a red filter and the second through a yellow filter.
Just out of curiosity (and since I'm somewhat newish to b&w film and developing), how do these shots differ from the look you'd expect from FP4+?
Nana Sousa Dias
19-Aug-2014, 11:03
This is a spectacular photograph. I love it!
-Daniel
Thank you, Daniel.
Nana Sousa Dias
19-Aug-2014, 11:11
Oh wow, I didn't know FP4+ could have that look, nice job!
FP4+, Kodak Plus-x pan, Fuji Acros, Fomapan 100 and Adox Art series 100, have a similar look, imo.
djdister
19-Aug-2014, 11:14
FP4+, Kodak Plus-x pan, Fuji Acros, Fomapan 100 and Adox Art series 100, have a similar look, imo.
I think it is a testament to the photographer/artist to be able to produce consistently great results, regardless of the materials used. Your shot at Adraga is just wonderful.
85B has a heavier "orange" tone to WARM the image so for example on Tungsten film which ends up blue if NO filter is used, looks normal if a filter is used, so my tiny brain is not understanding why it would look MORE blue with a stronger warming filter... Please help me understand I don't get it.
I have both, obviously, 85B and 85A. And I can tell which is which only by looking at the text on the barrel. They look the same to my eyes. Look at this curves (from Hoya site):
120183
It seems the CDU-II is type I tungsten film, so it requires a specific spectral curve to get the image right.
Nana Sousa Dias
19-Aug-2014, 11:34
I think it is a testament to the photographer/artist to be able to produce consistently great results, regardless of the materials used. Your shot at Adraga is just wonderful.
Thank you, Dan.
Nana Sousa Dias
19-Aug-2014, 11:38
120187
NSD 45 PS (home made camera), Fomapan 100
120188
Shen Hao HZX 45 IIA, Fuji Acros
120189
NSD 45 PS, Ilford FP4+
Jim Cole
19-Aug-2014, 11:44
Another nice trio, Nana. Jeez, you have a master's eye and the technique to carry out your vision. Bravo!
StoneNYC
19-Aug-2014, 12:14
I have both, obviously, 85B and 85A. And I can tell which is which only by looking at the text on the barrel. They look the same to my eyes. Look at this curves (from Hoya site):
120183
It seems the CDU-II is type I tungsten film, so it requires a specific spectral curve to get the image right.
Interesting thanks
StoneNYC
19-Aug-2014, 12:16
120187
NSD 45 PS (home made camera), Fomapan 100
120188
Shen Hao HZX 45 IIA, Fuji Acros
120189
NSD 45 PS, Ilford FP4+
Wow a testament to your skill. Well hopefully I'll learn how to do that in school.
I know you can "make" a film look the way you want, but I always found with my workflow that each film is easier to get a certain look "out if the camera" without having to adjust the EI and dev times/techniques much.
I tend to like to shoot films at box speed etc.
Anyway, really great. Thank you.
jon.oman
19-Aug-2014, 12:26
120187
NSD 45 PS (home made camera), Fomapan 100
120188
Shen Hao HZX 45 IIA, Fuji Acros
120189
NSD 45 PS, Ilford FP4+
Another stunning set of images!
Thomas Greutmann
19-Aug-2014, 12:30
After the rain, Fjaerlandfjord, Norway
http://www.blackandwhitegallery.de/var/albums/ORTE---PLACES/Sognefjord/000993-fi-fjaerlandfjord-clouds.jpg?m=1408476055
Linhof Master Technika with Super Angulon 47mm, TMAX 400 developed in XTOL 1:1
Greetings, Thomas
Steve M Hostetter
19-Aug-2014, 13:05
1202028x10" tranny iso 50 , Shades State Park
Steve M Hostetter
19-Aug-2014, 13:37
120205 Battle Ground 8x10" tranny fall
Harley Goldman
19-Aug-2014, 14:42
120189
NSD 45 PS, Ilford FP4+
Nice series, but this one really captivated me. Excellent.
Colorado CJ
19-Aug-2014, 15:31
I had a go with making a wet print of the photo I shot Sunday. This is a direct scan from an 8"x10" wet print I made today. I used a #4 contrast filter and exposed the paper for 55 seconds. I then burned the sky in for 20 seconds to get definition in the sky.
Printed on some cheap variable contrast RC paper and developed in Illford Multigrade developer. I then brewed some strong coffee and stained the print for 20 minutes in the coffee solution to get somewhat of a sepia tone.
I think I got pretty close to the directly scanned negative. I am EXTREMELY new to wet printing though, so I have a huge amount to learn.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3897/14970970661_3fab345dc1_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oNW8ZP)Wet-Print-of-Negative (https://flic.kr/p/oNW8ZP) by Colorado CJ (https://www.flickr.com/people/55229792@N03/), on Flickr
Jeff Dexheimer
19-Aug-2014, 20:45
I had a go with making a wet print of the photo I shot Sunday. This is a direct scan from an 8"x10" wet print I made today. I used a #4 contrast filter and exposed the paper for 55 seconds. I then burned the sky in for 20 seconds to get definition in the sky.
Printed on some cheap variable contrast RC paper and developed in Illford Multigrade developer. I then brewed some strong coffee and stained the print for 20 minutes in the coffee solution to get somewhat of a sepia tone.
I think I got pretty close to the directly scanned negative. I am EXTREMELY new to wet printing though, so I have a huge amount to learn.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3897/14970970661_3fab345dc1_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oNW8ZP)Wet-Print-of-Negative (https://flic.kr/p/oNW8ZP) by Colorado CJ (https://www.flickr.com/people/55229792@N03/), on Flickr
Beautiful print, especially for being new to wet printing.
Jeff Dexheimer
19-Aug-2014, 20:48
120205 Battle Ground 8x10" tranny fall
I used to live in Lafayette. Drove through Battle Ground everyday on my way to work. I recognize the scene, and your rendition is lovely.
I had a go with making a wet print of the photo I shot Sunday. This is a direct scan from an 8"x10" wet print I made today. I used a #4 contrast filter and exposed the paper for 55 seconds. I then burned the sky in for 20 seconds to get definition in the sky.
Printed on some cheap variable contrast RC paper and developed in Illford Multigrade developer. I then brewed some strong coffee and stained the print for 20 minutes in the coffee solution to get somewhat of a sepia tone.
I think I got pretty close to the directly scanned negative. I am EXTREMELY new to wet printing though, so I have a huge amount to learn.
Beautiful!
Steve M Hostetter
20-Aug-2014, 07:08
I used to live in Lafayette. Drove through Battle Ground everyday on my way to work. I recognize the scene, and your rendition is lovely.
Thank you Jeff, it's a special place for me and I visit often :)
Andrea Gazzoni
20-Aug-2014, 07:20
an image I took two years ago on 8x10 Provia, the print on Endura Metallic looks much better
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/94184552/watermarked-lenna%204x5.jpg
StoneNYC
20-Aug-2014, 07:32
an image I took two years ago on 8x10 Provia, the print on Endura Metallic looks much better
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/94184552/watermarked-lenna%204x5.jpg
I agree, I love my metallic chrome prints
Yet another CDU-II image:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14977165021_968ab1d8f8_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oPtTn8)
Głodówka (https://flic.kr/p/oPtTn8) by JaZ99wro (https://www.flickr.com/people/31584189@N02/), on Flickr
Graflex 4x5
CDU-II with 85A filter
Caltar 150/5.6
Geotagged
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 09:55
Another nice trio, Nana. Jeez, you have a master's eye and the technique to carry out your vision. Bravo!
Thanks, Jim.
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 09:56
Another stunning set of images!
Thanks, Jon.
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 10:02
Wow a testament to your skill. Well hopefully I'll learn how to do that in school.
I know you can "make" a film look the way you want, but I always found with my workflow that each film is easier to get a certain look "out if the camera" without having to adjust the EI and dev times/techniques much.
I tend to like to shoot films at box speed etc.
Anyway, really great. Thank you.
Stone, I hate developing films. I develop ALL my 50 and 100 asa films with Rodinal 1+50, continuous agitation. I'm not a lab rat. I always shoot at half the speed anouced by film manufacturers, just for improved shadow details. I use to do reciprocity failure tests with each film I use, and then I make my own reciprocity failure charts and, that's it. I do it because, sometimes, film manufacturers ar too much optimists, as is the case of Fomapan 100.
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 10:02
Nice series, but this one really captivated me. Excellent.
Thanks, Harley.
StoneNYC
20-Aug-2014, 10:06
Stone, I hate developing films. I develop ALL my 50 and 100 asa films with Rodinal 1+50, continuous agitation. I'm not a lab rat. I always shoot at half the speed anouced by film manufacturers, just for improved shadow details. I use to do reciprocity failure tests with each film I use, and then I make my own reciprocity failure charts and, that's it. I do it because, sometimes, film manufacturers ar too much optimists, as is the case of Fomapan 100.
Gotcha. I cheat, I use the reciprocity app on my iPhone (written by one of the members here).
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 12:15
Gotcha. I cheat, I use the reciprocity app on my iPhone (written by one of the members here).
;)
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 12:17
120280
NSD 45 PS, Schneider SA 47 XL, Fomapan 100
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 12:19
120281
NSD 45 PS, Schneider SA 47 XL, Fomapan 100
Old_Dick
20-Aug-2014, 12:47
Great work Nanã.
HTTY
Dick
Jmarmck
20-Aug-2014, 14:14
120280
NSD 45 PS, Schneider SA 47 XL, Fomapan 100
Nana, you may end up selling me on Fomapan. That is very good. What lens?
StoneNYC
20-Aug-2014, 14:54
120280
NSD 45 PS, Schneider SA 47 XL, Fomapan 100
Now this DEFINITELY has the Fomapan signature ;)
Haha
PS your wide angles are intense!
RSalles
20-Aug-2014, 15:05
Great shots Nana, and a cleaver use of powerful Schneider WA lens too! Do you feel you have room for movements shooting with 4x5 film with this lens?
As someone else has stated before, Foma is a great film indeed. But for low amount of light situations and fast - related to the speed/reciprocity ratios - changing scenes, instead of Foma I do prefer a less steepening reciprocity curve film. Did I mention I just find absolutely amazing the results of HP5+ with sunlight at rise or set?
What I do not agree completely is with what Nana sad about: "FP4+, Kodak Plus-x pan, Fuji Acros, Fomapan 100 and Adox Art series 100, have a similar look, imo." I had somewhat different results of the films mentioned above less Adox Art, which I didn't used yet. Maybe with some sort of labo master work I could achieve similar results, but out of the box these films have - for me - a different tonal and contrast curve.
Nana, you're right when you complain about Acros price for 4x5, it's a shame how Fuji rated so high the same film in sheet than 120. I get all the Across loaded in roll film backs and shot it with 6x7, 6x9 sizes. It's a damn good film, but have damn high prices!
Cheers,
Renato
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 16:15
Great work Nanã.
HTTY
Dick
Thanks, Dick.
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 16:16
Nana, you may end up selling me on Fomapan. That is very good. What lens?
Thanks, Marty.
The lens it's specified on the photo.
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 16:24
Now this DEFINITELY has the Fomapan signature ;)
Haha
PS your wide angles are intense!
Ahahahah....once I posted perhaps about 20 photos in an "expert" interactive site of photographers, some amateur, some other, professionals. I asked if they could tell what were the films I used on those photos! It was very entertaining. I did that because some guys were very sure of the films used on several photos, where I had absolutely no idea of the films used, so I made that "scientific" experience. The results were amazing! They had no idea of the films used but they seemed very secure, saying that this one was FP4+, that one was Fuji Acros, that some other was Ilford Delta 100, etc, etc. ALL the photos I posted, were made with Kodak Tmax 100!!!!! About the lenses, I use a lot the 47mm XL, I love it!
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 16:39
Great shots Nana, and a cleaver use of powerful Schneider WA lens too! Do you feel you have room for movements shooting with 4x5 film with this lens?
As someone else has stated before, Foma is a great film indeed. But for low amount of light situations and fast - related to the speed/reciprocity ratios - changing scenes, instead of Foma I do prefer a less steepening reciprocity curve film. Did I mention I just find absolutely amazing the results of HP5+ with sunlight at rise or set?
What I do not agree completely is with what Nana sad about: "FP4+, Kodak Plus-x pan, Fuji Acros, Fomapan 100 and Adox Art series 100, have a similar look, imo." I had somewhat different results of the films mentioned above less Adox Art, which I didn't used yet. Maybe with some sort of labo master work I could achieve similar results, but out of the box these films have - for me - a different tonal and contrast curve.
Nana, you're right when you complain about Acros price for 4x5, it's a shame how Fuji rated so high the same film in sheet than 120. I get all the Across loaded in roll film backs and shot it with 6x7, 6x9 sizes. It's a damn good film, but have damn high prices!
Cheers,
Renato
Olá, Rodrigo, tudo bem consigo?
I'm gonna answer in english, so that other guys can understand...
My SA 47 XL is "fixed" on my NSD 45 PS camera, wich doesn't have any movement or focus capabilities but, when I used the lens with my Shen Hao HZX 45 IIA, I think I would have something like 0,5 cm of movement room, or something like that, so, very little room. Anyway, as the lens has a great DOF, we can always use front tilt and swing, combined with front raise and fall, or shift, but, if you are in a hurry, forget it!
I agree with you, regarding the Fuji Acros issue, there is no reason at all for that huge diference in price, between LF sheets and MF rolls but, I've heard that they were to stop export for Europe and USA. I hope not, because it's my favourite MF film.
As to the films I mentioned, about the similarities between them, don't forget that Ilford FP4+ and Kodak Plus-x pan are the references on the market, for many years. I remember when Fuji released Acros 100, a lot of guys fiound a lot of similarities between Acros and FP4+, regarding the tonal range. Fomapan is also very similar, on that matter, as well as Adox Art Series. Delta 100 and Tmax 100, those are, indeed diferente films, but all the others, regarding the tonal range, imo, are very similar. I use all those films for some years and didn't notice much diference at all.
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 16:49
120283
Shen Hao HZX 45 IIA, Nikon W 210/5.6, Ilford FP4+.
Holdenrichards
20-Aug-2014, 17:35
120189
NSD 45 PS, Ilford FP4+
Absolute admiration for this image, beautiful
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 18:42
Absolute admiration for this image, beautiful
Thanks, Holden.
RSalles
20-Aug-2014, 18:48
Hi Nana,
What you sad is very interesting also, maybe it would be a great help and for the sake of information purposes, to cite the developer+dilution and agitation we use for the pics we post. Maybe the use of some developers enhances more then others the own character of a given film, maybe...
Let's post some images to the thread also,
Farm gate - 2
Sinar F2, Foma 100 4x5 ISO 80, Sinaron /5.6/210, Microphen 1-3 14mn 20ºC
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3887/14749237661_c2dc6ff90d_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/otkGv4)4x5_2014-4913-16 (https://flic.kr/p/otkGv4) by Renato__ Salles (https://www.flickr.com/people/57844819@N03/), on Flickr
Tree - Dilermando de Aguiar - RS - Brazil
Sinar F2, Tominon 4.5/105mm, Fuji Across 100 ISO, Graflex RH-8 back 6x9, Agfa Rodinal 1:100 in stand 1hr 20ºC.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3921/14494267528_ca15876a31_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o5NULh)6x9_2014-4832+33 (https://flic.kr/p/o5NULh) by Renato__ Salles (https://www.flickr.com/people/57844819@N03/), on Flickr
Remains of a bric industrie - Dilermando de Aguiar - RS - Brazil
Sinar F2, Tominon 4.5/105mm, Fuji Across 100 ISO, Graflex RH-8 back 6x9, Agfa Rodinal 1:100 in stand 1hr 20ºC.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14677711081_f286df01a1_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/on279a)6x9_2014-4836+37 (https://flic.kr/p/on279a) by Renato__ Salles (https://www.flickr.com/people/57844819@N03/), on Flickr
Thanks,
Renato, not Rodrigo! :)
RSalles
20-Aug-2014, 19:19
One more to the thread:
Sao Pedro do Sul - RS - Brazil
Sinar F2 - Fuji Across 100 ISO. Tominon 4.5/105mm. Agfa Rodinal 1:100 1h 20ºC stand
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14408608892_aced7d81b9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nXeTrf)6x7_2014-4540-41 (https://flic.kr/p/nXeTrf) by Renato__ Salles (https://www.flickr.com/people/57844819@N03/), on Flickr
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 21:37
Thanks,
Renato, not Rodrigo! :)
Desculpe, Renato, eu o confundi com um fotógrafo de S. Paulo, o Rodrigo Salles.
Nana Sousa Dias
20-Aug-2014, 21:38
One more to the thread:
Sao Pedro do Sul - RS - Brazil
Sinar F2 - Fuji Across 100 ISO. Tominon 4.5/105mm. Agfa Rodinal 1:100 1h 20ºC stand
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14408608892_aced7d81b9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nXeTrf)6x7_2014-4540-41 (https://flic.kr/p/nXeTrf) by Renato__ Salles (https://www.flickr.com/people/57844819@N03/), on Flickr
Beautiful.
RSalles
21-Aug-2014, 06:35
Nana,
Thanks,
Renato
(who also was born in Sao Paulo but which name is not Rodrigo).
BTW, andei vendo fotos incriveis tuas no forum esquina da foto, grande trabalho, parabéns!
ALVANDI Camera
21-Aug-2014, 07:16
120280
NSD 45 PS, Schneider SA 47 XL, Fomapan 100
Great work, awesome, I like your work always.
Nana Sousa Dias
21-Aug-2014, 13:01
Nana,
Thanks,
Renato
(who also was born in Sao Paulo but which name is not Rodrigo).
BTW, andei vendo fotos incriveis tuas no forum esquina da foto, grande trabalho, parabéns!
Obrigado, Renato, aqui, você pode ver minhas fotos: www.nanasousadias.com
Nana Sousa Dias
21-Aug-2014, 13:01
Great work, awesome, I like your work always.
Thank you.
finarphin
21-Aug-2014, 19:08
Stone, I hate developing films. I develop ALL my 50 and 100 asa films with Rodinal 1+50, continuous agitation. I'm not a lab rat. I always shoot at half the speed anouced by film manufacturers, just for improved shadow details. I use to do reciprocity failure tests with each film I use, and then I make my own reciprocity failure charts and, that's it. I do it because, sometimes, film manufacturers ar too much optimists, as is the case of Fomapan 100.
I had exactly one batch of film tested -- the Zone VI method -- once upon a time. It was supposedly 400 but actually 200.
Nana Sousa Dias
21-Aug-2014, 21:24
I had exactly one batch of film tested -- the Zone VI method -- once upon a time. It was supposedly 400 but actually 200.
Film speed depends a lot on the developer we use, almost eveybody nows that but, I don't know what developers are used by the film manufacturers on their tests, they ALWAYS get more speed of their films than we do! ;-)
Here is what I have concluded, for a few years using these films and Rodinal. I always use zone system and spot metering. Sometimes I use compensation time development, for contrast control, by ZS method (N+1, N+2, N-1, etc)
Indicated by manufacturer (asa / iso) Real film speed with Rodinal
Kodak Tmax 100............................................................... 64
Fomapan 100 ................................................................. 50
Fuji Acros 100 .................................................................64
Adox Art series 100............................................................50
Ilford FP4+ 125 ................................................................ 64
Kodak Plus-x Pan 125........................................................ 64
Ilford HP5+ 400 .............................................................. 200
Kodak Tri-x 320 ...............................................................200
Peter_Jones
22-Aug-2014, 13:51
When I only had 35mm cameras, and started doing my own dev, I thought some films were "better" than others, or certain camera/lens/film combinations were a magic bullet. When I started with medium format and Rodinal, I quickly realised the film manufacturers were being a bit optimistic with their ISO figures, and more exposure/less development was the key. Still refining my developing technique with 4x5, but as with 120 I usually halve the stated speed and develop in Rodinal 1+50.
Unless I get hold of a densitometer, that's as scientific as my film speed testing gets :) but I'm glad others have confirmed, by methods imperious or scientific, my suspicions.
There are some truly inspiring shots on this forum
Nana Sousa Dias
22-Aug-2014, 17:45
120448
Shen Hao HZX 45 IIA, Schneider Symmar S 150mm, Fomapan 100.
Thats beautiful Nana, Deep rich tones and great, natural lines..
Nana Sousa Dias
23-Aug-2014, 05:36
Thats beautiful Nana, Deep rich tones and great, natural lines..
Thanks, Alex.
Nana Sousa Dias
23-Aug-2014, 05:42
When I only had 35mm cameras, and started doing my own dev, I thought some films were "better" than others, or certain camera/lens/film combinations were a magic bullet. When I started with medium format and Rodinal, I quickly realised the film manufacturers were being a bit optimistic with their ISO figures, and more exposure/less development was the key. Still refining my developing technique with 4x5, but as with 120 I usually halve the stated speed and develop in Rodinal 1+50.
Unless I get hold of a densitometer, that's as scientific as my film speed testing gets :) but I'm glad others have confirmed, by methods imperious or scientific, my suspicions.
There are some truly inspiring shots on this forum
Peter,
As far as I know, the only REAL magic combination is a good scenery, nice light and hope that the guy behind the gg doesn't spoil everything.
Nana Sousa Dias
23-Aug-2014, 05:55
I think that, in landscape photography, the most important things to achieve a good photo are just two items...(assuming, of course, that the photographer can, already, control the technical aspects)
1 - Knowing WHAT to shoot.
2 - Knowing WHEN to shoot it.
If we can't control these 2 items, there isn't any lens/camera/film/developer combination that can "save" the photograph.
I could call it the NSD Formula but, I don't want people to call me narcisist, so I will call it the WW Formula.
Heres one from me (I never like posting anything after Nana... It makes me look really incompetent)
"Infinite"
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10634046_821012307949362_4086567078871237019_o.jpg
045N-2, 90mm f/8
Fomapan 100 @ 100
2sec f/22
#25 Red
Dev: Rodinal 1:100 - 1hr Stand.
Nana Sousa Dias
23-Aug-2014, 07:02
Heres one from me (I never like posting anything after Nana... It makes me look really incompetent)
"Infinite"
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10634046_821012307949362_4086567078871237019_o.jpg
045N-2, 90mm f/8
Fomapan 100 @ 100
2sec f/22
#25 Red
Dev: Rodinal 1:100 - 1hr Stand.
Ahahahahah...don't say that, this is a hell of a photo and you know it!
hiend61
23-Aug-2014, 14:59
Impressive images Nana!. I love the last one.
120187
NSD 45 PS (home made camera), Fomapan 100
120188
Shen Hao HZX 45 IIA, Fuji Acros
120189
NSD 45 PS, Ilford FP4+
Harley Goldman
23-Aug-2014, 16:31
Heres one from me (I never like posting anything after Nana... It makes me look really incompetent)
"Infinite"
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10634046_821012307949362_4086567078871237019_o.jpg
045N-2, 90mm f/8
Fomapan 100 @ 100
2sec f/22
#25 Red
Dev: Rodinal 1:100 - 1hr Stand.
Alex, you are holding your own with this one. :) Really well done. I love the perspective, the path to infinity.
Thanks Nana & Harley, Appreciate it.. The image was intended to stay as a 4x5 ratio however due to a rather extreme light leak in the bottom half of the frame due to an old holder I had to crop this one 3:1...
premortho
23-Aug-2014, 18:42
Nana, that is really a beautiful shot.
skiers4life
23-Aug-2014, 21:19
The Towers of the Virgin, Zion National Park, shrouded in the clouds of a passing storm. Shot on 4x5 Fuji Velvia 100. 1s @f/51 with a 2-stop soft GND.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3869/14828704109_375afe3d1b_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oAmZ7e)
Shrouded-Towers-copy (https://flic.kr/p/oAmZ7e) by skiers4life (https://www.flickr.com/people/45485297@N07/), on Flickr
Very cool, Alan.. I like that a lot!
One more from me then I'm done for a while (horridly rainy weekend has had me revisiting old negatives and even finding this one that I had completely forgotten about...)
"Natures Cacophony"
https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10460886_821428941241032_5099804676782264904_o.jpg
Neopan Acros 100 @ 100
12min f/32
Rodinal 1:50 (I forgot the development time... it was made a few years ago now..)
RSalles
24-Aug-2014, 02:01
Great shot gentlemen, and Nana is some sort of "Ors Concours" IMHO always good.
Both from Alex also, great shots, the Velvia also rocks, so subtil.
Coming back to the film subject - I'm totally new with LF until now, not having done my first 100 photos, but my milage comes from the seventies of the last century - what I have concluded is:
Depending of the tonal range I want to enhance, and the contrast of the subject itself:
With the same developer, Fuji Acros for the mid tones - details and revealing subtilities between zones III-VIII but even better for the low range III-V/VI.
Kodak TMax 100 and 400: Mid tone king also, but for the higher range, V-IX - brilliant tonality in the upper range of the negative, open highlights, looking at a given histogram, the ones in which the crucial data is at the right side.
Ilford FP4+, Delta 100 and 400: Dark kings! No other film I tried until now give me blacks and shadows like them. One have to pay attention in shadow placement with theses films to avoid black empty areas as it seems to me that their contrast curve at the left side of the contrast curve is very high.
Obviously, all this statements are dependable of the developer used and agitation: I will not conclude the same developing FP4+ with X-tol and Acros with HC-110, so YMMV.
Cheers,
Renato
Andrew Plume
24-Aug-2014, 02:51
Hi Alan
not only is that a great image but it's really 'refreshing' to see Zion in a different light etc etc
keep them coming
rgds, andrew
Nana Sousa Dias
24-Aug-2014, 07:00
Impressive images Nana!. I love the last one.
Thanks, or gracias, pero, no lo se tu nombre....
Nana Sousa Dias
24-Aug-2014, 07:00
Nana, that is really a beautiful shot.
Thanks
Nana Sousa Dias
24-Aug-2014, 07:01
The Towers of the Virgin, Zion National Park, shrouded in the clouds of a passing storm. Shot on 4x5 Fuji Velvia 100. 1s @f/51 with a 2-stop soft GND.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3869/14828704109_375afe3d1b_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oAmZ7e)
Shrouded-Towers-copy (https://flic.kr/p/oAmZ7e) by skiers4life (https://www.flickr.com/people/45485297@N07/), on Flickr
Beautiful...
Nana Sousa Dias
24-Aug-2014, 07:01
Very cool, Alan.. I like that a lot!
One more from me then I'm done for a while (horridly rainy weekend has had me revisiting old negatives and even finding this one that I had completely forgotten about...)
"Natures Cacophony"
https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10460886_821428941241032_5099804676782264904_o.jpg
Neopan Acros 100 @ 100
12min f/32
Rodinal 1:50 (I forgot the development time... it was made a few years ago now..)
Great!
hiend61
24-Aug-2014, 08:27
Soy Juan José Pascual Lobo
Thanks, or gracias, pero, no lo se tu nombre....
StoneNYC
24-Aug-2014, 08:37
The Towers of the Virgin, Zion National Park, shrouded in the clouds of a passing storm. Shot on 4x5 Fuji Velvia 100. 1s @f/51 with a 2-stop soft GND.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3869/14828704109_375afe3d1b_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oAmZ7e)
Shrouded-Towers-copy (https://flic.kr/p/oAmZ7e) by skiers4life (https://www.flickr.com/people/45485297@N07/), on Flickr
Was the 2 stop ND to increase the color saturation? Or some other reason I'm not familiar with?
Jeff Dexheimer
24-Aug-2014, 08:40
Was the 2 stop ND to increase the color saturation? Or some other reason I'm not familiar with?
Since it was a grad ND filter, my thought would be to balance scene brightness.
StoneNYC
24-Aug-2014, 08:51
Since it was a grad ND filter, my thought would be to balance scene brightness.
OH!!! I didn't notice the G in that... Graduated... Duh if I had seen that I wouldn't have asked... lol but what does "soft" mean?
Nana Sousa Dias
24-Aug-2014, 08:55
Soy Juan José Pascual Lobo
Ahahahahh, excuse me, Juan, I didn't remember your avatar, here! My regards to you, your wife and kid!
Nana Sousa Dias
24-Aug-2014, 09:01
OH!!! I didn't notice the G in that... Graduated... Duh if I had seen that I wouldn't have asked... lol but what does "soft" mean?
Stone, I think, in this case, "soft" means that the transition between the grey and transparent parts of the filter is "soft", with a large fade in between. There are some brands that make a few diferent "fades". Cokin has, at least, two diferent fades but, I think Lee and Hitech have some more.
1 - Knowing WHAT to shoot.
You mean subject, or composition? I (try) to have a strong composition principally. That may have to do with where I live (work) though, and the subjects I have access to.
Nana Sousa Dias
24-Aug-2014, 09:43
You mean subject, or composition? I (try) to have a strong composition principally. That may have to do with where I live (work) though, and the subjects I have access to.
I mean both. It's very important to look and "see", sometimes, the photo is a little piece of the whole scenery. There are some spots I want to shoot, here, very near from where I live, in a range of about 3 miles....however, many of those spots, I'm still waiting for the right time, the right light, the right sky, etc. So, that WW Formula, I think it's my life's story... ;-)
David Lobato
24-Aug-2014, 09:53
Toyo 45A, 90mm Nikkor
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55432652/Shiprock%20NM%20sunset%20glow%20Monochr%20CC%202014%20800LFF.jpg
Shiprock just after sunset
premortho
24-Aug-2014, 09:55
I mean both. It's very important to look and "see", sometimes, the photo is a little piece of the whole scenery. There are some spots I want to shoot, here, very near from where I live, in a range of about 3 miles....however, many of those spots, I'm still waiting for the right time, the right light, the right sky, etc. So, that WW Formula, I think it's my life's story... ;-)
Yes, I know what you mean. There is a winding riverside road near where I live. One day, while hauling a load of gravel up that road in my dump truck, the patterns on the road from the trees was incredible. I do not carry a Speed Graphic in the dump truck. Even a SG couldn't deal with that much dust. I've been up and down that road many times since, but the light has never been the same. And I think it's a good life's story.
Jim Cole
24-Aug-2014, 10:34
... but what does "soft" mean?
There are two main types of graduated filters. Some have a hard edge transition for when the light needs to be controlled along a very defined line, like a strong horizon, and then soft edge filters which graduate the transition over a portion of the filter for when the edge is less defined like with a tree line or uneven sunset.
EDIT: Sorry, I didn't see that someone had already answered this.
Nana Sousa Dias
24-Aug-2014, 11:10
There are two main types of graduated filters. Some have a hard edge transition for when the light needs to be controlled along a very defined line, like a strong horizon, and then soft edge filters which graduate the transition over a portion of the filter for when the edge is less defined like with a tree line or uneven sunset.
EDIT: Sorry, I didn't see that someone had already answered this.
I'm glad you did it, Jim, even I understood better!!! It's hard to express in a foreign language, especially when you studied more than 40 years ago, like me! ;-)
Nana Sousa Dias
24-Aug-2014, 11:11
Toyo 45A, 90mm Nikkor
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55432652/Shiprock%20NM%20sunset%20glow%20Monochr%20CC%202014%20800LFF.jpg
Shiprock just after sunset
Fantastic shot.
Nana Sousa Dias
24-Aug-2014, 11:12
Yes, I know what you mean. There is a winding riverside road near where I live. One day, while hauling a load of gravel up that road in my dump truck, the patterns on the road from the trees was incredible. I do not carry a Speed Graphic in the dump truck. Even a SG couldn't deal with that much dust. I've been up and down that road many times since, but the light has never been the same. And I think it's a good life's story.
Yes, it is a good story.
StoneNYC
24-Aug-2014, 11:28
Thank you everyone for explaining, I've only known about the different densities but not different transitions, though I've stuck to buying tiffen or B+W mostly, and new, so perhaps as much variety isn't available new any longer?
I just got back a few 8x10's I'll be posting here later I hope!
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