PDA

View Full Version : jobo 3005 or btzs tubes for 8x10



dng88
21-Dec-2008, 16:47
I have gone through jobo 2480 (uneven) then tray processing (scratch). I am thinking an "upgrade". Is Jobo 3005 or BTZS tubes good? Which one to use? Any advice would be welcome.

jeroldharter
21-Dec-2008, 17:58
I have used both for 4x5 but neither for 8x10. I imagine the issues are about the same. The advantage of the Jobo is processing multiple sheets at once. Not sure how many the Jobo drum holds. The BTZS tube obviously processes just one sheet but that allows you the versatility of using different developers, dilutions, times for each individual sheet of film but can be more cumbersome for processing larger quantities for film.

I assume that the 8x10 BTZS tube would be easier to use in a water bath of you do not have a Jobo processor also.

For the Jobo, the 3000 series drums give even developing. I have never tried the reels for sheet film but the expert drums work well.

dng88
21-Dec-2008, 19:36
Thanks. I have only experience with non Lift Jobo, is the 3005 would need a pipe to get things in and out of the drum. I am thinking about hand rolling. Also, is the pump important to 3000 series?

Don Dudenbostel
21-Dec-2008, 20:15
I process 4x5, 5x7 & 8x10 in my hobo in both the 3005 & 3006 drums. I purchased a BTZS 8x10 tube to run single sheets but don't really care for it. The BTZS tube scratches my film when removing it and allows it to move around during processing causing scratched. By far the jpbo is the winner. I would suggest using a beseler or uniroller to rotate the drum. I've used them and find them very easy to use and very consistent.

RPNugent
22-Dec-2008, 05:15
Yes the pump is important. I doubt I could get the lid off without it.

eddie
22-Dec-2008, 06:48
Yes the pump is important. I doubt I could get the lid off without it.

you can get he lid off with very little effort. if you do not put it on super hard that helps with the removal. you can also just lightly tap it on a sharp corner and this helps to dislodge it. with practice you can also open it by hand.....again it all goes back to how hard you put it on.

you do not need a removal tool or a sponge either. the film is very easy to grab with your fingers. if i need to dry it i just push a paper towel into the hole with a pencil. works like a charm....or get two drums......


eddie

z_photo
22-Dec-2008, 07:32
paper fibers from the paper towels. i have had no problems with sponge particles though :)

eddie
22-Dec-2008, 09:49
paper fibers from the paper towels. i have had no problems with sponge particles though :)

get better paper towels! :p

cloth works too......

Brian Ellis
22-Dec-2008, 10:56
I've used the BTZS 8x10 tubes and liked them a lot. I used three at a time, any more than that and I didn't have room in my darkroom sink to roll them back and forth. I've processed at least a thousand sheets of 4x5 and 8x10 film in BTZS tubes (far more 4x5than 8x10 but probably 100 or so 8x10) and never had the first scratch.

jeroldharter
22-Dec-2008, 13:58
I have never had scratching problems with 4x5 BTZS tubes. I have 12 tubes. Perhaps your tube has a plastic burr on the edge? I have not seen the 8x10 tubes. Maybe they are designed differently.

I use the BTZS tubes now while my Jobo sits, but that is because I use the BTZS system for determining exposure and development time. If you are using a simplified zone system or shoot a number of sheets of film in identical lighting, then the Jobo would be more time efficient. For example, I have 3 Jobo 3010 drums so I could easily process 30 sheets of 4x5 film in a couple of hours. Using the BTZS tubes would take much longer. But if I had 30 sheets of exposed film of different types, different lighting, using different developers or dilutions, etc. then the BTZS tubes win for time, convenience, and low consumption of chemistry.

Also, Jobo is basically dead. My CPP unit is lightly used but over 10 years old. I don't want to start a system that I will be forced to change later (like using TMAX Readiloads and Polymax paper!). Of course, maybe I should just get used to it.

Allen in Montreal
22-Dec-2008, 15:59
I have gone through jobo 2480 (uneven) then tray processing (scratch). I am thinking an "upgrade". Is Jobo 3005 or BTZS tubes good? Which one to use? Any advice would be welcome.

I have never used the tubes, but I have several Jobo drums in 3 series (4x5, 5x7 and 8x10) and think they are a great invention. The only issue to date has been some need for extra fixing and clearing of the odd batch of T-Max that just refuses to clear without a fight.

argos33
28-Dec-2008, 20:28
Although I have not used the BTZS tubes, I have a 3005 tank for developing 8x10 and I think it is the greatest invention since sliced bread. If my darkroom caught on fire I would run past the flames and grab my 3005 tank and carry it to safety.

I have never had uneven development or scratches, even when agitating by hand (rolling it along the floor).

mandoman7
26-Jan-2009, 16:53
I've used tray development, btzs tubes, the Jobo 3005 for 8x10 (CPP2) and the Jobo wins out big time, for me. When I get into it, I like to shoot a certain volume of film and not be hampered. A workflow. The Jobo encourages a routinized process and the elimination of variables.
If the photog is purely a weekend shooter and then only occasionally, then the trays can make sense for simplicity reasons. There's a zen to that process. You can find yourself channeling the shooters of a century ago in there, particularly with development by inspection...

JY

Eric Woodbury
26-Jan-2009, 17:38
I like the Jobo except when I have but one sheet of film to process one way and one another. I'm switching over to homemade tubes. No scratches yet.

I use the Jobo on a homemade base, but there are hand crank bases and rolling on the counter, too. The machines take more space than I have. I fill the Jobo while it is running with a funnel that has a 90 degree bend in it.

I've never had the pump. Use a one-hole rubber stopper that fits the jobo and put your water pressure behind it. If you want to pry it off, that works when all else fails, but it is tough unless you warm the lid with a splash of hot water.

Vaughn
26-Jan-2009, 18:59
Eric's way using water pressure does work -- sometimes too well. A member here almost lost an eye when the lid exploded off the drum. Filling the drum with water before applying the pressure reduces the chance of the lid coming off violently.

You don't need a pipe to fill or empty when using a motor base -- a funnel and a curved piece of plastic tubing works fine for filling - and one just picks the drum up and empties it over the sink.

Vaughn

mandoman7
27-Jan-2009, 11:10
I like the Jobo except when I have but one sheet of film to process one way and one another. I'm switching over to homemade tubes. No scratches yet.

I use the Jobo on a homemade base, but there are hand crank bases and rolling on the counter, too. The machines take more space than I have. I fill the Jobo while it is running with a funnel that has a 90 degree bend in it.

I've never had the pump. Use a one-hole rubber stopper that fits the jobo and put your water pressure behind it. If you want to pry it off, that works when all else fails, but it is tough unless you warm the lid with a splash of hot water.

I have some large fingernails (for blues guitar gigs) and they can grab the edge of the lid pretty well. With pulling slightly and turning, the top comes off easily. If it was easy for everyone, they wouldn't be selling so many pumps I guess, but I haven't found it to be that difficult.

I got my CPP2 off of Craigslist about 3 weeks ago and got quite a deal ($375 for nr. mint late model). I had one in the 90's and knew what to look for with this purchase. Looking on Ebay recently, I see a couple going for way more. I have a belief concerning equipment that money spent wisely on good quality tools will produce returns over the long run. My ex-wife would have some commentary but she's long gone so whatever...

JY