what film to you shoot, and what do you like to process it in?

[jnantz]

i guess there was a favorite paper thread,
so i figured why not a film and developer thread ...

i haven't bought film in a while, most of mine ( if not all of it )
is expired if not recently than 5 or 10 years back. its either tmx, tmy or 3x's

favorite developer - i have moved away from my developer of choice being
ansco130, and now enjoy using a coffee based developer ( caffenol C ) either
alone, or with a shake of ansco130 in it to boost it a little bit.

[Richard Wasserman]

TMY-2 in Pyrocat HD Wonderful!

[Gem Singer]

I always considered Ansco 130 to be a paper developer. Didn't know that it could also be used for film.

The combination of film and developer I am using these days is HP-5+ developed in Photo Formulary FA 1027. Seems to work equally well for 120 roll film, 4X5, 5X7, and 8X10 sheet film. I print the negatives with my enlarger, or if I choose, I can scan them and print using my inkjet printer.

[venchka]

I'm just re-starting my film processing after a multi-decade hiatus. Here's what I've been doing lately:

HP5+ in D-76 1:1. My old standby from a previous life.
HP5+ in Xtol 1:3. New standby from my present life.
HP5+ and PanF+ in Rodinal 1:100, stand for 1 hour. With the right exposure (something that I need to work on), a good combination.
Soon to try again after a long absence: PanF+, Delta 100, Efke 25 and APX25 in Rodinal 1:100 with normal (but reduced) agitation.

Just for grins, I developed a roll of HP5+ in Xtol 1:3 PLUS Rodinal at 1:100. One roll doesn't make a Rule, but the results were nice.

Good luck!

[venchka]

Eugene,

Ansco 130 is listed as a universal developer. I saw a discussion here or at APUG in the last week talking about different dilutions and times for paper or film.

[MIke Sherck]

For 8x10 I like HP5+ in straight D-76. For 4x5 it's Tmax 100 or 400, also in straight D-76.

Mike

[BarryS]

TMX and TMY (and whatever's cheap) in Pyrocat HD.

[Ron Marshall]

TMY-2 in XTOL or Pyrocat.

[David Karp]

HP5+ is my favorite. I develop it in Barry Thornton's Metol 2-Bath developer.
Next, in appropriate situations is FP4+, developed in the same stuff.
For 120 film, I sometimes use Delta 400, usually developed in the Thornton developer. If I go to 35mm, I usually use Delta 400, and develop it in Divided D-76H.

[Jim Galli]

cheap film. I use a lot of Efke 100 long roll cirkut camera film. It's about half gone. Then I use some18 year old Aerial Recon Panatomic X. I have some of the Adox 18X24cm that was defective that J&C were blowing out for 6.99 a box. Wish I had more. It's excellent. Anyone got some they want to sell me. I cut it up for the 6.5X8.5 camera.

Developer = cheap. PyrocatHD original formula. A little Rodinal on occasion. Even some HC110 when someone gives it to me for free. Not married to any of it if I find something cheaper that gives me what I want. The hobby $$$ seems to go into the lens vault.

[John Kasaian]

Hi john!
These days leftovers are what's on the menu---leftover tmy-1, txp, fortepan 200, efke pl100 and hp-5+, all paired with an unpretentious d-76 from a picturesque region of rochester. This will have to do until I can stave off the wolf at my door! Next time I order film, I'll get a big fat juicy box of FP4+! :)

[John Bowen]

5x7, 8x10 and 7x17 = TMY in Pyrocat HD and contact printed on Azo.
35mm & 4x5 = Tri-X in HC-110 and enlarged to any of 10 different papers.

When the 4x5 Tri-X in the freezer is used up, I'll likely switch to TMY in Pyrocat HD for all LF sizes. I have an Azo head and can enlarge to Azo.

[Dave Aharonian]

I shoot 5x7 and prefer Ilford FP4 and Tmax400 in PMK. I also just started using Efke25 in PMK and its very nice! Processed in a Jobo 3006 drum on a unicolor motor base.

[roteague]

Fuji Velvia 50, Fuji E-6

[Oren Grad]

For sheet film, HP5 Plus in straight D-76 for big sheets and 1+1 for small ones. For roll film, TX in D-76 1+1. Plain vanilla, all around.

I still tinker with other films occasionally, but very rarely with other developers any more.

[Gordon Moat]

Kodak E100VS in whatever the lab uses to process it.

I know . . . but I really don't like playing with chemicals. Anyone else using mostly E-6?

Ciao!

Gordon Moat Photography (http://www.gordonmoat.com)

[mcfactor]

Adox Pan 25 in Rodinal, Delta 100 in Rodinal, HP5 (up to 1600) in Beutler's

[Shen45]

Efke PL 100 in D 76 1+1 or PMK

Arista Edu Ultra 200 in PMK

Tested with WinPlotter.

[panchro-press]

Tri-X in D-7

[Merg Ross]

FP-4+ developed in Metol/Acetone for sheet film. Pan-F in Rodinal for 120.

[David A. Goldfarb]

Tri-X/ABC pyro more often than not.

[Richard Wall]

Kodak HIE, 4x5 (shot with an 87c filter) - Developed in HC-110 Dil-B (If you can get it).
Fuji Neopan Acros 100, 120 + 4x5 - Developed in Ilford MicroPhen straight. (Beautiful tones)
HP5+, 120 + 4x5 + 8x10 - Developed in MicroPhen or Rodinal (1:100).
Efke PL-25 8x10 - Developed in Rodinal (1:100) pushed +1 generally to bump contrast.

All of these printed to Ilford FB papers.

r.

[roteague]

Kodak E100VS in whatever the lab uses to process it.

I know . . . but I really don't like playing with chemicals. Anyone else using mostly E-6?

Ciao!

Gordon Moat Photography (http://www.gordonmoat.com)

I almost exclusively shoot E-6 films. So far this year, I've shot two rolls of B&W and 3 rolls of Kodak Ektar 100 (all 35mm); Kodak TechPan and Ilford XP2.

[David A. Goldfarb]

FP-4+ developed in Metol/Acetone for sheet film.

Interesting. I've seen old formulas that use acetone, but one doesn't hear much about them. What are the particular qualities of metol/acetone (other than, I suppose, making it easier to dissolve the metol)?

[Vaughn]

FP4+ in Ilford Universal PQ Developer...for alt processes

Vaughn

[Merg Ross]

Interesting. I've seen old formulas that use acetone, but one doesn't hear much about them. What are the particular qualities of metol/acetone (other than, I suppose, making it easier to dissolve the metol)?

David, the qualities of Metol /Acetone are, a very clean working developer yielding excellent negatives with the added benefit of hardening. The acetone combines with sulfite and replaces the need of an alkali. I mix a stock solution (water,sodium bisulfite,metol,acetone) which lasts well (over a year) and for use add water, sulfite and stock. Or, you can mix a one shot quickly with water, sulfite, metol, acetone.

I believe that you use pyro, you may enjoy experimenting with some of the old Pyro/Acetone formulae. It is always good to remember that Acetone is highly volatile, but simple precautions suffice. Also, the Metol/Acetone formula works well with roll film.

[p_markowski]

HP5 is my bread and butter in all my formats (not in love with Delta 400) and then it goes to HP4. All in Pyro PMK 1:2:100
Reliable, solid and predictable.
Currently testing Adox 100, Efke ,and Rollei 25 but it must pass my Pyro PMK developer and personal tastes.

[Koge]

Super XX Pan in D-23 and more recently Tech Pan in Formulary TD-3, oh I miss you so...

[Gary L. Quay]

So far, it's been FP4 or HP5 in HC110, Dilution H. I've had consistantly good results with these.

I wish I could say that I really like Pyro as much as I want to, but I haven't had a lot of luck with it. The exception to this has been night shots with HP5.

[Ole Tjugen]

FP4+ in Ilfotec HC, mostly.

Or Ektachrome E100G in JOBO E6 developer.

And Perutz Peromnia plates in miscellaneous old developers - anything from Rodinal to Windisch'.

[Stephanie Brim]

Due to monetary constraints until the first of the year, I shoot what I can get my hands on cheaply or free and develop it in either Rodinal or HC-110 as they are the most long-lasting developers I've found. I'm also using Caffenol, but with no real successes as of yet. I've just started back to shooting after months of doing nothing and so I want to really try to do my best with what I have. :)

[jnantz]

Due to monetary constraints until the first of the year, I shoot what I can get my hands on cheaply or free and develop it in either Rodinal or HC-110 as they are the most long-lasting developers I've found. I'm also using Caffenol, but with no real successes as of yet. I've just started back to shooting after months of doing nothing and so I want to really try to do my best with what I have. :)

stephanie:

which forumula for caffenol are you using? and how are you processing the film?
there are a handful of different ways to make the developer, and it takes
either a bit of a stand or a lot of agitation / development to get it to work well.

you might also add a little bit of whatever your stock print developer of choice is.
the print developer will be like the boy scout at the street corner helping
the old person cross the street.

have fun!

john

[David A. Goldfarb]

I believe that you use pyro, you may enjoy experimenting with some of the old Pyro/Acetone formulae.

Thanks, Merg. I have a few pyro/acetone formulae. I might give it a try.

[Wayne Crider]

TXP and Diafine right now because it's fast to develop without hitting a temperature and it's forgiving. Next up will be Rodinal for some stand developing and whatever film. I'm thinking about doing some full moonlight photo's so the combo may change.

[Merg Ross]

Thanks, Merg. I have a few pyro/acetone formulae. I might give it a try.

Just wanted to add that acetone from a hardware or paint store will work fine or USP grade if you prefer. Measure using glass or steel beaker for the stock solution as acetone can harm plastics. However, the working solution is too weak to be a problem. I develop sheets in hard rubber trays.

There are a number of formulae where acetone can be used, including Pyro/Phenidone. My father used a Dektol/Acetone formula for developing his 8x10 film with good results.

For an easy one shot: 28 oz. Water, 1 oz. Acetone, 30 grains Sodium Sulfite, 20 grains Metol. Stir, and that's it. Times, of course vary, somewhere between 12 and 16 minutes depending on film and method.

mergross.com

[tgtaylor]

Fuji Acros and Kodak Tmax in Xtol (1:1 and 1:3) and D-76 (1:1).

Ilford SPX (and soon Efke and Rollie) in Xtol or D-76.

Fuju 160C and 160S is Kodak C-41.

Fuji Provia and Velvia in Kodak E-6 single use kit.

I bought a few rolls of Kodak's new Extar color negative film (available only in 135 at this time) but haven't tried it yet but when I do, it will be developed in Kodak C-41.


Thomas

[David A. Goldfarb]

Thanks again, Merg.

[eddie]

foma100/arista.edu.ultra. up to 11x14. pyro. 1:1:100 for 12 min or 2:2:100 for 8 min. at times hc110 for 9 min at 1:63

i have just acquired some hp5 and some trix in 8x10 and will be trying some of that in the near future.

[MenacingTourist]

Efke 25-100 in 5x7 and now mostly in 8x10
Rollo Pyro
Jobo expert drum (although I am NOT and expert) on a beseler reversing base.

[jshanesy]

TMY in either Harvey's 777 (if I want smoothness) or Pyrocat HD (semi-stand to control midtone contrast).

For color work, EPY.

[Gene McCluney]

I shoot lots of Arista.edu.ultra 200 in 5x7 (Foma 200 film) I like to develop it in 3.5 gallon deep tanks on 2-up 5x7 hangers. I usually develop 20-22 sheets per run, and I use HC-110 dilution "E". I shoot lots of film. Tuesday I shot 54 sheets.

[lungovw]

I am using TMAX 100 and 400 in 35 mm. FP4, Foma and Forte in large format.
Developer: only 510 PYRO 1:100 7 to 10 minutes at 22 or 23ºC depending on the case.

Wagner

[redrockcoulee]

35mm Kodak HIE plus left overs and whatever has been given to me (Tech Pan FP4, HP5)

120 Mostly TMax100 but this year tried Bergger 200 and Adox 25 the latter seems nice andnow that the darkroom is up and sort of running I can see what it actually looks like. Also in colour Portra 160 and Ektar 25 and both have been free, still a dozen or so rolls left of them

4X5 Have not had to buy any as still have 150 sheets of Tech Pan and boxes of both the TMaxs and some TriX

5X7 FP4 but very little as no place to develop except for see above re darkroom (finished sort of temporary last weekend)

Whole Plate Can I say FP4? except that is what I have bought for the camera but not used any yet and only have a single film holder so far.

Devolper has been Rodinal and D76 but trying some HC110 as Rodinal was unavaillbe in canada for a little while but it is back again.

[BradS]

35mm: Tri-x or TMY in HC-110

4x5: mostly TXP in d-23 (in the summer) and in d-76 for the winter. Sometimes, FP-4 in D-23 or ID-68.

When I feel colorful, I'll shoot the occasional box of Provia or E100G or Fuji 160S.

[Blueberrydesk]

Still learning FP4+ in Pyrocat-HD for 8x10.

[Leonard Metcalf]

HP5 & Acros - D76 1:1 or 1:3
Velvia 100 & Provia - Tetnol E-6 - 3 bath

Cheers, Len

[keith english]

TMY-2 in tmax RS, but I haven't really tried other developers yet. I use to love Rodinol and may try it again.