View Full Version : Jobo 3010 Processing Problem

Jim Cole
21-Nov-2008, 16:39
I have been processing my 4x5 in a Jobo 3010 drum for about three months and in that time I have ruined 5 negatives, the last two today.

I have attached a scan of one of today's negs to see if anyone can suggest what is happening.

The first 2 or 3 times this happened, I thought that I had not gotten all the water out of the lid and some leaked down on the emulsion and sat there while the drum sat in a water bath for 10 minutes or so before processing.

However, my first batch today, the drum had been dry and unused for two weeks. I thought maybe that I had pushed the sheet down too far into the chamber where the bottom gets conical and I interupted the flow of water and chemicals. One sheet was ruined out of five in the drum.

I noted that the problem occurred in chamber #2 so I avoided that one on my next batch of three sheets and made sure I didn't push the sheets down too far. All three sheets came out fine.

Then I processed a single sheet (avoiding chamber #2 again and loading the sheet carefully) and thought I made sure the drum lid was dry. This last sheet was ruined.

All 5 sheets have a similar milky white blotch on the end of the sheet that goes into the bottom of the drum. This blotch shows up as black on the scan. You can see the exposure detail through the blotch. I looks to me as if water has sat on the film and caused the coating to go mushy or something (those are technical terms).

Can anybody guess what I'm doing wrong?

This is Fuji Acros film processed in 1:49 Rodinal at 68 degrees using a 5 minute pre-wash. Stop, fixer and washed as normal.

Thanks in advance,


Robert A. Zeichner
21-Nov-2008, 17:02
Forgive me if this is obvious to you, but are you loading the film with the emulsion away from the walls of the cylinders? (facing in)

Jim Cole
21-Nov-2008, 17:11

Yes I am, and it was a good question that I forgot to address in my initial post.


Clueless Winddancing
21-Nov-2008, 22:40
Work flow details might help. Level in both directioins, lift assist, aggitation direction(s), pre-rinse duration, duration of development, etc.....

Jim Cole
22-Nov-2008, 07:47
Work flow details might help.

Thanks for helping.

The two runs that I had issues today were N-2 and N-1 runs. N-2 = 4 min 10 sec and N-1 = 5 min 30 sec using the 3010 on a Unicolor motor base. I do not reverse the motor base but let it turn consistently and the base is level. The drum is level at all times except when I dump out solution for about 10 seconds on each changeout. All solutions more than the required 210 ml for the 3010 and all have the required amount of chemical mix per sheet of film in the drum.

Workflow on the turning 3010 drum for Acros and Rodinal is:

5 min. prewash
Developer for required time
1 min. Kodak Stop Bath
30 sec. wash
3 minutes with Ilford Rapid Fixer 1:4 (today, I made fresh fixer for each batch instead of reusing a larger volume which had been my normal method)
5 - Two minute fresh water washes
Final wash with PhotoFlo


Fred L
22-Nov-2008, 07:55
My guess would be the anti halation hasn't fully cleared. Rewash may help ?

Jim Cole
22-Nov-2008, 08:10

Thanks for the suggestion. I am going to try a re-fix and re-wash and see it it clears a bit. I'll report back.

Eric Brody
22-Nov-2008, 08:45
How much chemistry are you using? With a highly dilute developer like Rodinal, you can be generous. I use Xtol 1:2 and use 900ml in my 3010. My 2 cents.


Jim Cole
22-Nov-2008, 08:50
After re-fixing and re-washing one of the negatives in question, the opaque milky white area was reduced to a slight orange stain with all details in the neg visible that may let me get a good scan out of it.

So, is my three minute Ilford Rapid Fix not long enough, or is 10 minutes of washing with five 2 minute 500ml washes not enough...or both?

Eric, I don't think it's the developer volume since the negs develop perfectly except for this occasional issue. I do use at least 300ml for a single sheet and up to 900ml for 5 or 6 sheets.

Thanks for everyone's continued help,


Ron Marshall
22-Nov-2008, 09:10
I would fix for at least 5 minutes, you wash time should be sufficient.

I don't do a pre-wet, I fix for five min. in TF4 and wash for five min.; that always clears the anti-halation layer from Acros.

Jim Cole
22-Nov-2008, 09:22

Thanks for the suggestions. I will standardize on 5 minutes of fixing for the Acros instead of 3 minutes.

If you don't mind another question, I know that the new TMax 400 requires more fixing than the Acros. I was fixing the TMY-2 for five minutes, but I'm guessing that that may not be sufficient. Any ideas here?

Bruce Watson
22-Nov-2008, 10:10
This may sound like a dumb question, but I'll risk it. Are you getting the film loaded under the little ridges that run the length of the film tubes in the 3010? This puts the film in the tank but keeps the back of the film off the tank wall so that solutions get to both sides of the film.

The reason I ask is what you describe is what I used to get with the BTZS tubes I used before switching to a Jobo CPP-2 and 3010 tank. The film would stick to the tube walls, and thus the anti-halation backing wouldn't clear like it should. Looked just like what you are describing. It doesn't actually hurt the film, but it does mean more washing to get the anti-halation layer out.

But that problem should not occur with a properly loaded 3010 tank. Part of it's design function is to prevent that from happening.

Kirk Keyes
22-Nov-2008, 10:15
Are you using about 220 ml of fix as well? Use a whole liter when fixing.

And the sheets are still in the wells when you open the drum? It looks like the sheets are touching and not getting solution between them.

I think you need to follow the advise to use larger amounts of solution. There's no need to scrimp when developing film. Especially when you are wrecking nice photos...

Jim Cole
22-Nov-2008, 10:39
Bruce and Kirk,

Thanks for your replies. I am getting the sheets properly loaded under the ridges in the wells and they are still in properly when I take them out.

I was only using 220mm of fixer solution when doing one or two sheets at a time. When I had 5 sheets in the drum on the first run yesterday, I was using 450ml.

I agree that I just may need to not only up the fixing time, but use more solution when doing it.

Just as a follow up, I just re-fixed and re-washed the second ruined sheet from yesterday and it came out great. Just barely any stain from the original mess. I should get a great scan out of that one.

Thanks again for all your suggestions,


Jim Cole
22-Nov-2008, 11:54
As a note, this discussion is also being carried on at the APUG forum.

Thanks for all the participation.