Light Box- What Kind of Plastic for the viewing surface???

[eric black]

I think I have enough competence with fluorescent bulbs and wiring to contruct a lightbox provided I can figure out what the white translucent plastic is that seems to be the most important part of the device. My goal is a 24x48 inch box to examine 8x10 chromes on. Does anyone know the type of plastic that is typcially used for the construction of these boxes (and a supplier if it is someone other than the usual McMaster source for spare LF parts)
thanks in advance

[Frank Petronio]

Yellow Pages -- Plastic Suppliers -- Milky White Plexiglass 1/8th inch

[vinny]

What frank said. You might as well get Chroma 50's for the tubes as well since you're going through the trouble of building this thing.

[Michael TX]

Just happen to see the posting so please excuse the improper protocol on my part. I have a functional Macbeth Prooflite 515 with two spare Macbeth 5000 F15T12/50 15W bulbs if you are interested in it for parts. The viewing area is 15x16 inches and the unit is an upright table top model which sounds too small for what your ambition seems to point to for a goal.

[eric black]

Thanks for the responses and sorry Michael but I already have a portable table that size- Im looking to make a monster for doing side by side comparisons with large chromes. Milky white plexi it is.

[Nathan Potter]

I don't like plastics for light box viewing. They can be very electrostatic for dust in a dry environment. I use plate glass with frosted mylar diffusing film behind. Stick the mylar to the underside of the glass using double stick tape. My main table is 24 X 48 inches and the glass was rescued from a display cabinet. Glass is easy to keep clean.

Nate Potter, Boston MA.

[Richard Wall]

I made my light table out of an old drafting table. I cut a large hole in the table's top, attached the light housing underneath the hole and fitted a piece of translucent white Plexiglas into the hole with a large sheet of glass over the whole thing.

Richard

[Louie Powell]

I have a commercial light box that came with white plexiglass. The plexiglass top was held in place with metal clips that were adjustable enough to allow me to add a sheet of ordinary window glass on top of the plexiglass. Plexiglass scratches - window glass doesn't (at least, not easily). With the glass in place, I don't have any concerns about using cutting tools on the light box.

[CG]

What Louie said.

C

[Drew Wiley]

There are different types of white Plexiglas. The ordinary kind blocks too much light.
I prefer a Cyro product called sign white which is intended for backlit transparencies.
I has good diffusion with less light loss. Then for critical work like spotting negatives or image registration, I prefer to have a thin sheet of true glass over this, since acrylic plastic both bends (unless very thick) and is electrostatic. Pick your bulbs with care if you are judging color work. The best tubes available have a CRI around 98.
Although 5000K is the industry standard, it is helpful to have at least one light box
dedicated to the color temperature of the actual lights you most commonly use to display finished work.

[resummerfield]

...... I prefer to have a thin sheet of true glass over this, since acrylic plastic both bends (unless very thick) and is electrostatic. Pick your bulbs with care if you are judging color work. The best tubes available have a CRI around 98.
Although 5000K is the industry standard, it is helpful to have at least one light box
dedicated to the color temperature of the actual lights you most commonly use to display finished work.
My box is about 50 x 24 inches, and I have packed in six 5000k tubes. I use 1/4-inch plate glass on top of a thin acrylic sheet. The glass stays flat with no static charge.

[C. D. Keth]

I replaced the top on one our club got donated in school. I sandwiched a brand new piece of 250 (1/2 white diffusion, both rosco and lee make it) between sheets of glass. It's nice and bright, brighter than the old top, as well as being evenly lit.

Make sure you provide some sort of ventilation for the tubes. They do produce some heat and if fluorescent tubes get too hot, they can run off-color.