Are old wood field cameras useable?

[Paul Moseley]

Hello, I have a chance to buy an old wood field camera that is very near to mint c ondition, it is a Conley (unsure of model) and on the lens it says the patent da te is 1907. Are these cameras useable? can they produce quailty images? it is mi ssing the film holders, are they easy to find? I am new to large format, and tho ught the price would be a steal if it is useable.

Thanks for your time, Paul

[Dave Willison]

First, check to see if the camera is a "plate" camera or one that takes standard size film holders (4x5, 5x7, 8x10). The two Conley field cameras currently for sale on e-bay, for example, are both plate cameras. I beleive they are "full" plate and use 6.5x8.5 plates. If you are new to large format, I would stick to a camera that uses standard filmholders. You could adapt a plate holder to hold sheet film or construct a standard back for the camera, but it may be more trouble than you are looking for.

If the camera takes standard filmholders, you can buy them new or used at just about any major large format shop on the net. If you are in the market for used holders, read the latest issue of View Camera for an article on buying and repairing older film holders.

Whether or not an older camera produces good images is often of function of the lens. The lens on your prospective camera is probably a symetrical lens like a Rapid Rectilinear. It is obviously old and uncoated and will produce images with less contrast. Also, check the lens for defects, scratches, polishing marks, decementing, etc. You may also need to adjust the aperture scale depending on what markings you find. Many old lenses use a different aperture notations such as the Universal System.

On the camera itself, check the bellows for lightleaks and pinholes. Use a flash light and a dark room. Also check to see what movements are available on the camera and whether or not they work. Older field cameras are often limited to front rise/fall and rear tilt. Hope this helps.

.............

[David R Munson]

My question, in addition to those asked before, is are you a good woodworker? If you are, or are at least patient and willing to spend some time on it, you can do a lot to improve an old wood field. If the glue is dead, disassemble the camera, reglue everything, and you'll have a much sturdier camera. Things like replacing screws, adding shims, and replacing certain worn parts can go a long ways to take an old ricketty camera and turn it into a competent picture taker.

[Paul W. Purdom III]

I bought a beat-up Conley for $25 dollars. The bellows were old and had pin-holes in the corners. I taped them at first and finally replaced them. I made another 4X5 and bought a toyo. I only use the Conley. After tightening loose screws and a little upkeep, it is my best camera. I even made a back to do either 5X7 or 4X5.

It was treated rough but is still going strong. Well worth it unless you're a snobb and must have the new and bestest.

[Matt_1193]

Dan, Very well said.

My only advice is to replace the bellows immediately, before using the camera. I know, there are many of you who will disagree with that. Why replace it if you can get by with some repairs? Well, it has been my experience that the small investment will save you many hours of frustration, and film. Chances are it needs it, as time takes it toll and bellows that appear "OK" are not -besides pinholes they develop miniscule tears and/or gaps inside the rear standard where they attach, etc..

Luck.

[premortho]

Personally, I don't go looking for trouble...it'll show up soon enough. I have been shooting 5X7's for over 60 years, never bought a new one. And they are all still wearing their original bellows. Once you examine the camera, and look (and LISTEN) to the bellows unfolding, you should know if it needs bellows or not. I once borrowed a camera that had a wonky bellows. I just wrapped the bellows in the dark cloth, and shot. On lenses. Almost certainly non coated. So what? I made a black cardboard sunshade for mine..lined the inside with velvet. Buy the right film, no shortage of contrast. If you want to shoot 400 speed film, contrast is a problem. 100 speed or slower, no problemo. When I shoot panchro film I use Arista edu. ultra 100 at asa 64, works fine. I normally shoot Ortho film. I like the way it renders colors better, especially with a wratten y-3 filter. So, if it looks ok, and you want it, buy it. A lens with a patent date of 1907 is likely to be a Tessar, or an anastigmat. Whose name is on the lens? I'm curious. Does it have a shutter? They are nice to have, but you can do good work without one.

[John Kasaian]

Do you want a project? Or a camera? If you want a project, sure buy it. If you want to make photographs then carefully look it over. Do the movements adjust and lock down firmly? Do you see leaks in the bellows using a flashlight inside the camera in a darkened room? Are any leaks patch-able pinholes or do you need a replacement? Does the back take standard film holders or will you need to hunt down plate holders? Is the lensboard at least 4"x4" or is it smaller, limiting the size lens you can use on her? Is the tripod socket good or are the threads stripped? Is there an extension rail for this model and does it come with it?
With work it may be a fine camera, or it may be useful right out of the gate. You have to decide how much work, if any it needs, how much work (expense) you're willing to go through and that should decide the price you're willing to pay. If you want to make photographs, perfectly useful older monorails are out there for $200 and wood field cameras for $400 or so on up(and up!) Those are the things I'd take into consideration. Bringing an old camera back to life would be pretty cool---I've kludged together a cannibal queen or two from parts, for reasons I won't get into here---but ultimately it is for you to decide---do you want to play at your workbench? Or do you want to play outside? If the Conely is mint ad everything functions as it should, it may indeed be a "steal." What makes it useable or not is the condition its in. If it comes with a lens you may likely need a cla, but that can be said about any old lens unless it has an Ilex "moustache face (dial set) shutter," then I'd consider a replacement lens (maybe another $200)

[Steven Tribe]

Please check the OP posting date before contributing new stuff from here on !!

The topic is as fresh now as it was then!

[David Lobato]

Paul, Conleys are fine cameras, I have one. If it is in the condition you say it is, then most likely, one could in short order be taking pictures with it. Regarding film holders, chances are the camera is a standard size format. Use a ruler to measure the ground glass height and width, and let us know the result. Film holders and film are available in 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 sizes.

[premortho]

All I can relate is what has worked for 67 years for me. Ilex shutters? I don't have any shutters as modern as an Ilex mustache shutter, whatever that may be, for large format work. All of my cameras have Packard shutters built in. That's because I have some barrel lenses. And also Packards are easy to keep running. I do have two Wollensak Rapax shutters, and a Betax, but those are on 4X5 cameras. I think of large format as 5X7 and larger.

[Peter Gomena]

With a little tinkering, it will be fine. My oldest camera is from 1895, and it works just fine. Any antique camera will have its quirks. Learn to work with them. Old cameras are perfectly capable of making excellent pictures, but they may take a little work and research to bring them up to speed.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Dave: check to see if the camera is a "plate" camera or one that takes standard size film holders

Good point, Dave. BTW, I have never seen a Conley that took anything but plates. Perhaps it is just my luck.


David: If the glue is dead, disassemble the camera

A tip for that - remove the steel parts from the wood section to disassemble, then place the wood in a micro-wave oven and hit it for 30 seconds on high. The glue will break down and the parts can easily be separated by hand. Depending on the power of your micro-wave, more time might be necessary - increment carefully. (The glue back then was organic - animal glue.)

[John Kasaian]

All I can relate is what has worked for 67 years for me. Ilex shutters? I don't have any shutters as modern as an Ilex mustache shutter, whatever that may be, for large format work. All of my cameras have Packard shutters built in. That's because I have some barrel lenses. And also Packards are easy to keep running. I do have two Wollensak Rapax shutters, and a Betax, but those are on 4X5 cameras. I think of large format as 5X7 and larger.

Its the Ilex (called a General, IIRC) that resembles a Compur dial set. The needles on the dials face make it look like a little man with a moustache.