TMAX developing chemistry

[Mark Sloane]

Based on advice from this forum I am switching from TMAX developer to TMAX RS and Replenisher developer.

I have been overexposing my 4x5 negs by 3 stops to get decent density and some have suggested my developing has contributed to this. I couldn’t agree more but I will note that the “Kodak TMAX 100” text written on the side of each neg appears to be properly developed.

Previous process: TMAX 100 4x5 negs in Jobo reel drum with Tmax developer at 1,000 ml (200 ml developer/800 ml water @ 70 degrees), agitated on a motor base that rotates back and forth for 6 minutes.

New process the same except for RS at ? % dilution at 70 degrees for 8.25 minutes because 1,000 ml is 33+ oz.

I have been to the Kodak web site, printed and read the info and I am still confused about how to use the replenisher and how much to dilute the RS Developer with water.

Thanks for all your help……..Mark

[Gudmundur Ingolfsson]

Read this first !
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/articles/sexton-tmax.html

If I use the JOBO expert drum I follow Sexton's article, but I also develop my 120 rolls
in an old and replenished TMAX RS and recently I use an HP Combi Plan and develop
4x5" 100 TMAX sheets with the old replenished RS too with good results. I get a bottle of 1 liter RS concentrated that dilutes to be 5 liters. The developer is also the replenisher so you add 35 ml of an unused developer to the used for each 120 and 16 ml for each 4x5" if I remember correctly. Good luck!

[drew.saunders]

The linked file is excellent, but the easiest way to get 1:4 Tmax RS (the Kodak recommended dilution) is: Bottle "A" plus water (just a few ounces) to make 1 qt. Bottle "B" plus a lot of water to make 1 qt. 1 part A + 1 part B + 2 parts water to make working solution. With the Jobo 2500 tanks using about 280ml for 6 sheets, I just dump the used developer.

Get Kodak's "J-86" document:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j86/j86.jhtml?id=0.2.24.14.18.14.7.16.14&lc=en

I find that I can pretty much follow the times, minus about 5%, to get negatives that I like, but I'm not all that picky about optimum negatives. I probably should be, I know, but I'm not.

Drew

[jeroldharter]

I can tell you my information based on my BTZS testing, developing in BTZS tubes at TMAX RS dilution of 1:9 at 68 degrees and using a Jobo Colorline 5000 as a densitometer:


For the 1:9 dilution at 68 degrees

N-1.5 4:11
N-1 5:26
N 9:04

For the 1:4 dilution at 68 degrees

N 5:35
N+1 7:55
N+1.5 12:41
N+1.92 22:00

Of course, the Jobo times will vary and doing your own testing is best.

[Ed Richards]

From my readling of the posts, I would say that the advice from the forum for Tmax is Xtol, used one shot. Much simpler, full speed, just remember to do a test negative each time you mix a new batch of master solution.

[Mark Sloane]

I just spoke to Kodak and man do I feel stupid!!!!

You mix all part A in 1/2 gallon of water, then all of part B in same half gallon and then after mixing top off to one gallon!

I just wish they had said so on the box, (the instructions were in spanish), or in the tech docs.

Also, the guy said RS supposedly gives you a little more shadow detail but Xtol gives you a finer grain and is slightly sharper.

Guess I'll use Xtol......Thanks for all your help.....Mark

[Ron Marshall]

Kodak developers: shadow detail, grain, sharpness (XTOL has a good balance):

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/chemistry/bwFilmProcessing/selecting.jhtml

[Ed Richards]

I think sharpness goes up with Xtol at 1:3, which a number of us use.