Developer and Stop bath

[jon.oman]

After a lapse of five years, I'm getting back into film. When I moved to my present location, I did not have room for a darkroom. So, I switched to digital. I now want to get back to 4x5 B&W. I will not print in the conventional way, but scan the negatives for digital processing.

The fixer is easy. I can still use the standard Kodak fixer I have used for about forty years.

The developer is in doubt. I have always used D-76, but have read that Xtol is better if you plan to scan the images. What do you think? I have the smaller Jobo processor, with the proper tanks to do 4x5. Does Xtol work well with a rotary processor? I will be using Tri-X.

Finally, I have always used Glacial Acetic Acid from Kodak. But, where I live, there is no local source of supply. I can't get it from B&H, etc. because of new shipping restrictions. They can't ship it. So, what do I use? I could use white vinegar, but what is the dilution? I know that I could just use water, but I have never done it this way, and don't want to do it now. B&H does ship a stop bath made by Photographer's Formulary, but I do not know anything about it. How good is it? Does it come as a powder, so you have to mix it, and that is why B&H can ship it?

Thanks,

Jon

[dsphotog]

Hi Jon,
Good to have you back to 4x5 shooting!
I've used water insead of stop, (for film)no problems for 35 yrs.
Happy shooting!
David Silva

[Ash]

I use water in lieu of stop bath, for about 1-3 minutes. I empty and refill after each 30 seconds even with contiously flowing water.

[jon.oman]

Thanks for the response on the stop bath. I guess if a lot of people can have success with just plain H2O, I will give it a try. I'm thinking I will have to reduce my development time though.

Any thoughts on D-76 vs. XTOL, and using rotary processing?

Thanks,

Jon

[Toyon]

You might try www.freestylephoto.biz. They ship to some places B&H won't. I use Ilford Stop bath because it is odorless.

[Ron Marshall]

I've found the image quality of D76 1:1 and XTOL 1:1 to be very similar, with a very slight edge to XTOL. XTOL mixes more easily with water.

Both are excellent developers and both work well in a Jobo and give negs that scan well.

I don't use stop either.

[jon.oman]

You might try www.freestylephoto.biz. They ship to some places B&H won't. I use Ilford Stop bath because it is odorless.

Thanks for the link, and the information. It looks like this will work. For now, I guess I will try just water. Another way to reduce the costs!

Jon

[jon.oman]

I've found the image quality of D76 1:1 and XTOL 1:1 to be very similar, with a very slight edge to XTOL. XTOL mixes more easily with water.

Both are excellent developers and both work well in a Jobo and give negs that scan well.

I don't use stop either.

Considering this information, I think I will stick with D-76 for now. I am more familiar with how it works.

Jon

[Steve Goldstein]

You can use supermarket distilled white vinegar to mix up a stop bath that will work exactly the same as the stuff you used to make by diluting glacial acetic acid. The stuff they sell in the market is usually about 5% acidity, while "real" stop bath is around 1.4%. So take 1 volume (quart, liter, or flagon) of vinegar and mix with 2.5 volumes of water and you'll be close enough. The exact level of acidity isn't critical, and it changes with use in any case.

This mixture will have the same drawback as stop made by diluting glacial acetic acid - it won't turn blue as it gets depleted. If you knew what Kodak uses as an indicator you could add it (if you can get it) to get back the yellow/blue feature.

[jon.oman]

You can use supermarket distilled white vinegar to mix up a stop bath that will work exactly the same as the stuff you used to make by diluting glacial acetic acid. The stuff they sell in the market is usually about 5% acidity, while "real" stop bath is around 1.4%. So take 1 volume (quart, liter, or flagon) of vinegar and mix with 2.5 volumes of water and you'll be close enough. The exact level of acidity isn't critical, and it changes with use in any case.

This mixture will have the same drawback as stop made by diluting glacial acetic acid - it won't turn blue as it gets depleted. If you knew what Kodak uses as an indicator you could add it (if you can get it) to get back the yellow/blue feature.

Thanks Steve. I knew white vinegar would work, but I did not know the dilution. Thanks again for the information.

Jon