Brilliant Ground Glass

[David Karp]

Hi Gang,

Now that Dave is retired, I was looking for a new ground glass supplier. I know Geert is out there, and his product looks pretty interesting, but the shipping to USA and the currency conversion make that product more expensive than I have available now.

I noticed an E-Bay seller in Torrance, CA named Brilliant Ground Glass. Here is a link to his E-Bay store: http://stores.ebay.com/Brilliant-Ground-Glass.

He has excellent feedback. Anybody use this product? Any have a basis for comparison to Satin Snow? One plus for me is that he offers glass with permanent gridlines.

Thanks.

[Jon Shiu]

Hi, I bought a 5x7 gg from him on ebay and received it within 2-3 days after payment. Excellent quality glass also. Mine did not have the grids.

Jon

[Capocheny]

Hi Dave,

I picked up a few sheets from Dagor77 in all 3 formats (4x5, 5x7, and 8x10) a short while ago and have only mounted the 5x7. While not as bright as Dave Parkers'... it's very functional and easy to use (with the 110XL.)

At present, I he's only selling an 8x10 sheet:

Item number: 180296793317

Cheers

[SaveBears]

Everything I have heard about this brand is good, I have not yet tried it, but there has been some discussions on this forum about it and the reviews seem good.

SB

[David Karp]

Thanks guys,

I pulled a dumb one here. I neglected to search first. Thanks for pointing out the prior reviews, including a recommendation by Dave Parker, and reminding me about Dagor77.

Sorry to trouble you.

[wfwhitaker]

I've purchased glass from Brilliant Ground Glass for 6 1/2 x 8 1/2, 7x11 and 12x20. Very nice glass each time. His shipping is prompt and his packing excellent. He's been great to work with and quite accommodating when it comes to special requests. I would not hesitate at all to order again from him.

[vinny]

I think jim fitzgerald has a couple and loves 'em. pm him

[Drew Wiley]

Satin Snow is by far the best viewing glass I have ever used. It is worth the wait.
I have it on my Ebony, Sinar, and Phillips cameras now. I hate fresnels (especially
the two piece ones, because condensation gets between the elements). Even at the
max aperture of f/12 of my compact Fujinons, I have no trouble getting the image
to "snap" into critical focus.

[paul08]

David Parker is out of the business, so I think David Karp was looking for something of equal (or nearly) quality. I think the guy on ebay uses abrasives instead of acid (like Parker), but don't know much more. I would be interested to hear a comparison between the two GGs from someone who has both.

Paul




Satin Snow is by far the best viewing glass I have ever used. It is worth the wait.
I have it on my Ebony, Sinar, and Phillips cameras now. I hate fresnels (especially
the two piece ones, because condensation gets between the elements). Even at the
max aperture of f/12 of my compact Fujinons, I have no trouble getting the image
to "snap" into critical focus.

[Geert]

David Parker is out of the business, so I think David Karp was looking for something of equal (or nearly) quality. I think the guy on ebay uses abrasives instead of acid (like Parker), but don't know much more. I would be interested to hear a comparison between the two GGs from someone who has both.

Paul
You are mis-informed. Dave (Parker) did not use acid, but also abbrasives.

Kind regards,
Geert

[Richard K.]

I just got an 8x20 GG from Steve to replace the acrylic that came with my camera and I'm 100% happy with the product and outstanding service. The acrylic had a hot spot that I just couldn't get used to and is now my back-up. The GG that Steve (Brilliant Ground Glass) supplies is first rate. No worries here at all.

[paul08]

Yes, that's what I was trying to say, that the guy on ebay uses abrasives, like Dave Parker did for Satin Snow GG (on second read I see that my placement of the clause about Parker might be confusing). Neither evidently used acid (I think I got this info from Parker himself). Acid-etched GG is available on ebay, but the piece I have is not so bright compared to an old hand ground sample.

Paul


You are mis-informed. Dave (Parker) did not use acid, but also abbrasives.

Kind regards,
Geert

[goamules]

I made a 8x10 ground glass for my new to me Seneca this weekend. It took about an hour. I got an old picture frame for $1.50, and used the 5 micron aluminum oxide I had from a couple other's I've made. There are a couple of good articles online on doing it. I think the results are as good as something you could buy, but there are no grids or such.

[paul08]

That sounds like a great DIY project. Will you apply a grid? I've done it once on one of a couple of surplus GGs I got years ago, that turned out to be from Edmund Scientific. I used pencil, which was OK, but judging only from the pictures I'm interested in the way the Brilliant GG seller seems to use a silver or gray ink (gray sharpie, maybe?).

Paul



I made a 8x10 ground glass for my new to me Seneca this weekend. It took about an hour. I got an old picture frame for $1.50, and used the 5 micron aluminum oxide I had from a couple other's I've made. There are a couple of good articles online on doing it. I think the results are as good as something you could buy, but there are no grids or such.

[Nathan Potter]

I rule GG using india ink from a Rapidograph pen. The GG needs to be really clean (detergent washed) then write very fast to avoid the ink spreading. You can try a final clear spray coating to protect the ink but it reduces the brightness of the screen.

BTW I thought all of the brightest screens were produced by abrasive grinding. And I'm wondering what the grinding parameters might be. For lapping, the size of the abrasive particles would be relevant along with the lapping force (lbs/in. squared) and perhaps the lapping block material. Maybe an expert like Dave Parker could divulge some secrets now that he's no longer in the business.

Two other ways of producing GG screens occurs to me.

1. One could mix a solution of glass frit with a binder and solvent and spray the mix on blank smooth glass. The result, I can imagine would produce a significantly different brightness due to the structure and morphology of the applied mixture.

2. One could use a sand or bead blaster yielding a more orthogonal impact of abrasive particles which again might yield a different light scattering pattern.

Oh well, just some thoughts.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[Gem Singer]

Scotch tape on clear thin glass will also work.

However, for brightness and even illumination, it's hard to beat a plastic Fresnel screen (like a Maxwell), frosted on one side and grooved on the other. Overlaid with a thin protective cover glass that has an acid etched grid pattern.

[goamules]

This is the website I used to get started, and after reading his excellent review of different abrasives, decided to just use 5 micron alum.
http://www.dokasphotos.com/techniques/ground_glass/

It works fine. I use a 3 inch square piece of glass for the grinding plate. It only takes about an hour.

[bernal]

Does anybody know what Brilliant Ground Glass' phone number is?

Thanks,

bernal

[Jim Fitzgerald]

I have two of Steve's GG's One is for my 8x10 and the other is for the recently built 11x14. I know Vinny and Matt Blaze were impressed with them when they looked on my ground glasses. Steve custom made my glass for my Seneca Improved 8x10. It was under 8x10 by just a tad and it fit perfectly. I can highly recommend his products. Both of mine are gridded. I did buy my 8x20 glass from Andrew (Dagor 77) and it is very nice. I will upgrade to a Brilliant glass when the needed.


Jim

[chris_4622]

Where can one get a small amount of aluminum oxide? I searched Mcmaster but the smallest quantity is 5lbs.

[SaveBears]

Where can one get a small amount of aluminum oxide? I searched Mcmaster but the smallest quantity is 5lbs.

Try a rock shop, they use it as a polish in rock tumblers, many companies carry a 1 pound package that sells for about $5.00

[David Karp]

Thanks gang.

I really appreciate the help and feedback. I think I will give Brilliant a try.

[EuGene Smith]

Bernal:

The fellow at the Brilliant Ground Glass store is Steve Hopf, and his e-mail address is hopfsteve@gmail.com

You can't ever get him by phone as he is located in a rural area that has only dial-up, so his phone is always busy . . he keeps the computer connected online and monitors it frequently throughout the day.

I, too, like several others on here have bought GG's from Steve and am quite happy with them.

EuGene

[goamules]

I got my grinding alum oxide here http://www.willbell.com/contact.htm believe it or not. About a year ago, and it was only a few dollars for about a pound. See if they still sell it.

[bernal]

Bernal:

The fellow at the Brilliant Ground Glass store is Steve Hopf, and his e-mail address is hopfsteve@gmail.com

You can't ever get him by phone as he is located in a rural area that has only dial-up, so his phone is always busy . . he keeps the computer connected online and monitors it frequently throughout the day.

I, too, like several others on here have bought GG's from Steve and am quite happy with them.

EuGene

Thank you EuGene. I started communication with him yesterday by e-mail. I am in the process of placing an order.

bernal

[Michael Graves]

Thought I'd resurrect this thread and add a comment.

I received a new 5x7 GG with grids and clipped corners from Steve the other day. The quality of the glass I received was as good as the Satin Snow I got from Dave just before he closed up shop, and THAT is saying a whole bunch. Dave put out a quality product. Too bad it wasn't unbreakable!

In any case, it's good to know that somebody else believes in high standards and good service. It's bright, the grids are perfectly applied and he even smooths and rounds the edges of the glass. First rate product and I got it four days after I sent him the order. Took me another day to unpack it, he had it so well packaged for shipment. But once I did, I was delighted.

[C. D. Keth]

I ground a couple glasses for my 5x7 and will do one for my 8x10 soon. I just used 5 micron alox until the glass was completely evenly frosted. Then I wash everything (both the glass I'm grinding and the glass I'm grinding with) and switch to 3 micron alox. I go until the texture is evenly smoothed from what it looked like right after the 5 micron. The difference between the 5 micron frost and the 3 micron frost can be seen. The glasses I've made are as bright and fine as any I've seen anywhere else, including satin snow glasses.

If anyone wants a more in depth description, I can give it, though it is very simple.

[Peter De Smidt]

Hi Christopher,

What was your process? I've used 5 and 3 micron aluminum oxide (telescope mirror grinding grade), and I got "scratches" in addition to the diffusion.

[Turner Reich]

If anyone wants a more in depth description, I can give it, though it is very simple.
__________________

I would appreciate a description, more and more people are doing their own modifications, builds, and gg making is one that comes up regularly.

Thanks

[Geert]

Hi Christopher,

What was your process? I've used 5 and 3 micron aluminum oxide (telescope mirror grinding grade), and I got "scratches" in addition to the diffusion.

Then you apply too much pressure with the finer grain.
Coarse grain can have 15Kg, with the finest grain I only apply about 3Kg.

Aluminium oxide is also more prone to scratching the glass than silicium carbide.

G

[C. D. Keth]

I would appreciate a description, more and more people are doing their own modifications, builds, and gg making is one that comes up regularly.

Thanks

Certainly. Peter, the answer to your question is in here, too. This is the way I do it. I'm sure there are many ways and probably better ways but this works for me. The thing to keep in mind all the while you read this is to take your time. This process is meant to create uniform little conchoidal chips in the glass. If it's done right, they will essentially act like little surfaces for the image but also pass a maximum of light. If you get in a rush or try to apply too much pressure, you will end up with an uneven glass or a ground glass with bigger or uneven little chips. It will work but won't be as bright as one done with care.

First, I cut the glass to size and clip the corners. I've been told you can cut the glass after grinding but I ruined 2 glasses that way and never tried a third time. I believe the people who say it can be done, but I can't figure it out. The cut keeps wandering. Cut 2 pieces of equal size. One will be the one you concentrate on grinding. The other will be the tool you grind with. In practice, you should end up with both of them ground to satisfaction so you can have a spare. If you do this, make sure to clip the corners on both pieces and test fit them into your camera before expending the effort.

Second, you will want to get your work area prepared. Lay a couple of sheets of newspaper out on the table. They will keep everything clean and help the glass to not slide around. You will want a bowl of water handy, with a spoon in it to dispense the water, as well as the grits you will use. I like aluminum oxide in 5 micron and 3 micron sizes. I got a pound of each at a lapidary shop and barely used any to grind a half-dozen glasses for myself and a couple of other people.

With your spoon, put a few drops of water on the newspaper and set one piece of glass down. The water just sticks it down to the paper. Put a couple pinches of 5 micron alox on the glass and then pour a spoonful of water over it and stir it a bit with the spoon. It should make a thin slurry with enough grit to more than cover the glass. You'll get the feel of how thick or thin it needs to be pretty quick. Lay the other piece of glass on top and with what I can only describe as "a medium finger pressure" start grinding it in a circle. When the glass doesn't want to move against the other piece anymore, the slurry is drying up and you need to add more water. If the slurry is looking too thin, add a pinch of grit. It's kind of a go by eye thing.

Grind grind grind...Check the pieces from time to time. They will start by grinding unevenly in patches. That is the stage where you are flattening the waves out of the glass. At some point, you will check the pieces of glass and they will be evenly frosted from edge to edge. At that point, take both pieces of glass to the kitchen sink and rinse all the grit off. Rinse some more. You want to get ALL of it off or it will just put scratches in the 3 micron grind. After rinsing wash them with dish detergent and set them aside to dry.

Now go clean up the work area. Replace the newspaper and the bowl of water. Wash the bowl and spoon, too. Everything should be new to make sure you have no 5 micron grit hanging around.

For the second stage, do everything as you did before but with the 3 micron grit. Apply less pressure, only enough to be able to move the top glass in relation to the bottom. More will create scratches or tiny chips that will degrade the quality of the glass. As you go with this second stage, you will be able to see the finer grind of the 3 micron in contrast to the grind of the 5 micron. It is subtle but able to be seen. Once both pieces of glass show this fine grind evenly, you are done.

I line my glasses with a .5mm mechanical pencil. It is easy to see while also being unobtrusive to viewing the image as a whole. If you want a bolder grid, .3mm drafting pens work well. Draw the line quickly or the ink can bleed and make an uneven line.

[Steve Hamley]

I have several GG from Steve Hopf and they are very, very good.

Steve Hamley

[cowanw]

I got my 1000 grit aluminium carbide rock abrasive from

www.therockshed.com

It may be faster to be generous with replacing the slurry with new, as it dries, as opposed to replenishing it with water, as the cutting edge of the carbide rounds off.
Heavy bottomed juice glasses or "old fashioneds" whiskey style glasses give you a handle and a reasonable surface area to apply even pressure on the surface of the gg. Using two very large gg's may flex depending on where you push with your fingers.
I believe there is also a dissenting opinion that one might just as well start with the finest grit, since it is necessary to "grind" down to the bottom of the chips created by the coarser grit anyway.
I have read that the coarser grits give the brighter coarser images and the finer grits give a finer but more veiled image.
I have wondered if that means that a coarser grit on the periphery of the gg would be better and the centre would be better with a finer grind (vis a vis hot central spots with some lenses)
It would be nice to hear the secrets from someone who has done hundreds (thousand's?)
Regards
Bill

[Colin Graham]

It would be nice to hear the secrets from someone who has done hundreds (thousand's?)
Regards
Bill

I've wonder this as well. While not absolute torture, I'd hate to have to grind GGs all day every day. I wonder if you can charge up a wheel buffer with grit and get an even grind.

[Geert]

I have read that the coarser grits give the brighter ... images and the finer grits give a ... more veiled image.

Bill,

that statement is incorrect. Just trust my word on it. Good timing and adequate pressure with the finest grits make the gg more transparant than with coarse grit.
Also, if you read some pages of people who make their owne telescope lenses, they use the finest grits to make the lenses transparant!

G

[Peter K]

Also, if you read some pages of people who make their owne telescope lenses, they use the finest grits to make the lenses transparant!
Sorry Geert polishing a glass surface and making a ground-glass are two different things. If not a highly polished glass would be the best ground-glass. As mentioned before the brightness of a ground-glass depends on the form and size of the scattering elements on the surface.

Peter K

[jb7]

Nicely put, Christopher-
If I can track down those grits, I'll definitely give it a go sometime-

j

[CP Goerz]

One tip for the glass I sell is to give the etched side a wipe with some wax, it makes the glass brighter/clearer. If you don't like it you can wash it off with soapy warm water.


For fun try waxing one side of the glass and leave the other alone and compare.


CP Goerz/dagor77.

[Scott --]

One tip for the glass I sell is to give the etched side a wipe with some wax, it makes the glass brighter/clearer. If you don't like it you can wash it off with soapy warm water.


For fun try waxing one side of the glass and leave the other alone and compare.


CP Goerz/dagor77.

What kind of wax are you using? Parrafin, paste furniture wax, etc?

[C. D. Keth]

Nicely put, Christopher-
If I can track down those grits, I'll definitely give it a go sometime-

j

You should, it's simple. It takes me half as long to describe the process as to do it, it feels like. I don't claim to make the best groundglasses or anything but they are cheap, as bright as I need, and as finely ground as I need. I can't ask for more than that.

[N Dhananjay]

Sorry Geert polishing a glass surface and making a ground-glass are two different things. If not a highly polished glass would be the best ground-glass. As mentioned before the brightness of a ground-glass depends on the form and size of the scattering elements on the surface.

Peter K

My understanding is that the coarser the glass, the more difficult it is to focus on fine detail. Also, I would imagine that coarser glass would be less bright - think of it as small facets that are at some angle to the light. Fine grinds increase transmittance while coarse grings increase diffusion - so I see it as a tradeoff. The diffusion is what allows us to see the complete image. At the extreme, without a ground glass, you can focus on an aeriel image but you will only be able to see one small section at a time.
Cheers, DJ

[CP Goerz]

'What kind of wax are you using? Parrafin, paste furniture wax, etc?'



Any wax will do, I just used some paraffin type wax but have seen beeswax and petroleum work too.



CP Goerz/dagor77

[Peter K]

My understanding is that the coarser the glass, the more difficult it is to focus on fine detail. Also, I would imagine that coarser glass would be less bright - think of it as small facets that are at some angle to the light. Fine grinds increase transmittance while coarse grings increase diffusion - so I see it as a tradeoff. The diffusion is what allows us to see the complete image. At the extreme, without a ground glass, you can focus on an aeriel image but you will only be able to see one small section at a time.
It's not so easy at all. One had to use a different ground-glass for different focal-lenghts and also for different bellows-extensions. And for different wave-lenghts too, because diffusion depends on the size of the diffusing elements and it's angle in direction to the optical axis. So every ground-glass is a compromise.

Peter K

[Nathan Potter]

I've made hundreds of these plates for a variety of purposes and have some additional observations as well as some confirmation of what was said above.

I think image diffusion is a misnomer in this context; this is really image scatter. The ground surface refracts each circle of confusion in all directions from each of the small craters formed by the grinding process. The observers eye, from one point, thus can see the entire screen at nominally equal brightness. At exact focus on the GG the refracted image is that of an airy disk (1.22 lambda in dimension) for a perfect lens. Details in the grinding procedure will affect the uniformity of the screen brightness across its extent as well as the quality of the image as viewed by a loupe.

As the grit size gets smaller the glass approaches a less fractured aspect and so is less effective in scattering the image. This results in increased "hot spots" as mentioned above. But also results in a finer fracture and so higher resolution when viewed through a loupe, also as alluded to above.

Scratches generally result from foreign particles larger than the abrasive becoming entrapped between the glass and the grinding mechanism. They can come from the grinder if it is another piece of glass (say chips from the edge of the grinding glass), contaminated grit or a dirty ambient.

Pressure applied during grinding is an important factor in the ultimate quality of the plate. A light touch is desireable but slows the grind rate. Again, as mentioned above, too high a pressure can cause scoring and scratches in the glass especially when combined with larger particulate contamination.

Glass grinding tools are effective for a glass against glass system but can be prone to chipping and contaminating the slurry with larger glass particles. I generally use a stainless steel plate say 2 inches in diameter which has been previously ground flat and to which a handle of some sort has been epoxied.

It is quite important to make sure that an adequate amount of abrasive is maintained between the grinding surfaces as well as a decent bead of water. If during grinding some stickiness develops add more abrasive and maybe more water. You can hardly have too much abrasive.

Also mentioned above is to cut the glass to size prior to grinding. The reason being that the grinding operation introduces micro cracks of some depth into the glass so subsequent attempts to cut to size can cause the scribe line to wander off break point. It is also wise to bevel the edge of the glass with fine lapping paper to both avoid cutting yourself later and to avoid chipping larger pieces off the edge during lapping. But after edge beveling be sure to get rid of every bit of abrasive that may have come from the edge bevel operation.

The application of a wax is an interesting idea - never fooled around with that.

Nate Potter, Boston MA.

[Paul Kierstead]

I noticed an E-Bay seller in Torrance, CA named Brilliant Ground Glass. Here is a link to his E-Bay store: http://stores.ebay.com/Brilliant-Ground-Glass.


I get a "Sorry, this store does not exist."?

I have never looked through a "premium" ground glass. How visible improvement would these be over my stock wisner gg or stock calumet gg? Particularly with wide angles (80mm)? I find focusing in even moderately low light to be a serious battle.

PK

[jb7]

This is the way I do it. I'm sure there are many ways and probably better ways but this works for me. The thing to keep in mind all the while you read this is to take your time. This process is meant to create uniform little conchoidal chips in the glass. If it's done right, they will essentially act like little surfaces for the image but also pass a maximum of light. If you get in a rush or try to apply too much pressure, you will end up with an uneven glass or a ground glass with bigger or uneven little chips. It will work but won't be as bright as one done with care.

First, I cut the glass to size and clip the corners. I've been told you can cut the glass after grinding but I ruined 2 glasses that way and never tried a third time. I believe the people who say it can be done, but I can't figure it out. The cut keeps wandering. Cut 2 pieces of equal size. One will be the one you concentrate on grinding. The other will be the tool you grind with. In practice, you should end up with both of them ground to satisfaction so you can have a spare. If you do this, make sure to clip the corners on both pieces and test fit them into your camera before expending the effort.

Second, you will want to get your work area prepared. Lay a couple of sheets of newspaper out on the table. They will keep everything clean and help the glass to not slide around. You will want a bowl of water handy, with a spoon in it to dispense the water, as well as the grits you will use. I like aluminum oxide in 5 micron and 3 micron sizes. I got a pound of each at a lapidary shop and barely used any to grind a half-dozen glasses for myself and a couple of other people.

With your spoon, put a few drops of water on the newspaper and set one piece of glass down. The water just sticks it down to the paper. Put a couple pinches of 5 micron alox on the glass and then pour a spoonful of water over it and stir it a bit with the spoon. It should make a thin slurry with enough grit to more than cover the glass. You'll get the feel of how thick or thin it needs to be pretty quick. Lay the other piece of glass on top and with what I can only describe as "a medium finger pressure" start grinding it in a circle. When the glass doesn't want to move against the other piece anymore, the slurry is drying up and you need to add more water. If the slurry is looking too thin, add a pinch of grit. It's kind of a go by eye thing.

Grind grind grind...Check the pieces from time to time. They will start by grinding unevenly in patches. That is the stage where you are flattening the waves out of the glass. At some point, you will check the pieces of glass and they will be evenly frosted from edge to edge. At that point, take both pieces of glass to the kitchen sink and rinse all the grit off. Rinse some more. You want to get ALL of it off or it will just put scratches in the 3 micron grind. After rinsing wash them with dish detergent and set them aside to dry.

Now go clean up the work area. Replace the newspaper and the bowl of water. Wash the bowl and spoon, too. Everything should be new to make sure you have no 5 micron grit hanging around.

For the second stage, do everything as you did before but with the 3 micron grit. Apply less pressure, only enough to be able to move the top glass in relation to the bottom. More will create scratches or tiny chips that will degrade the quality of the glass. As you go with this second stage, you will be able to see the finer grind of the 3 micron in contrast to the grind of the 5 micron. It is subtle but able to be seen. Once both pieces of glass show this fine grind evenly, you are done.

I line my glasses with a .5mm mechanical pencil. It is easy to see while also being unobtrusive to viewing the image as a whole. If you want a bolder grid, .3mm drafting pens work well. Draw the line quickly or the ink can bleed and make an uneven line.


I've just followed Christopher's method and now have two lovely pieces of ground glass-
I used automotive valve grinding paste- coarse followed by fine- no idea what the grits are, but it went exactly according to plan...

Many thanks-

j

[Michael Graves]

I think he shut down his store in response to some of the fee increases. However, I'm pretty sure he'll still make you a glass. He made mine for me after his store disappeared and it's gorgeous. Every bit as good as the old Satin Snow. I found focusing my old Wollensak f9.5 to be much easier. Email him at hopfsteve (at) gmail.com and ask him.

As far as making your own, that was never the point of this thread. Somehow, it got hijacked. And aside from that, if you've never done it before, it's not quite as easy to get a smooth glass as some make it seem, and you only have to waste the time and money on one failure to make his prices look like a bargain.


I get a "Sorry, this store does not exist."?

I have never looked through a "premium" ground glass. How visible improvement would these be over my stock wisner gg or stock calumet gg? Particularly with wide angles (80mm)? I find focusing in even moderately low light to be a serious battle.

PK

[jb7]

Actually, it wasn't at all difficult-
€4.40 on 2 pieces of glass, cut, clipped,
and €10 on paste- 2 grades-

And the results, to me, are brilliant-

Wouldn't be the first tangential thread-

j

[Bob Crowe]

Try stores.ebay.com/Steve-Hopfs-Ground-Glass-Store I've got one on order but it's not here yet so I can't personally comment. I think this is the same guy.

Bob



I get a "Sorry, this store does not exist."?

I have never looked through a "premium" ground glass. How visible improvement would these be over my stock wisner gg or stock calumet gg? Particularly with wide angles (80mm)? I find focusing in even moderately low light to be a serious battle.

PK

[Paddy McKay]

[QUOTE=David Karp;401222]Here is a link to his E-Bay store: http://stores.ebay.com/Brilliant-Ground-Glass

I tried but couldn't connect via the above link. This is the active link to Steve's Ebay store that I found:
http://stores.ebay.com/Steve-Hopfs-Ground-Glass-Store

[David Karp]

I finally got around to contacting Steve Hopf and ordered a GG with gridlines from him.

It is sized perfectly, the edges are clean and smooth, the gridlines are a light gray and nicely done, and the glass looks beautiful.

I have looked through the GG in the house at night, and it seems very nice, and surprisingly bright. I will report back when I have a chance to use it outside, in the light.

Steve is a pleasure to deal with: Quick to answer Emails, very quick to complete the glass and ship it, and he packs the glass so that the package will seemingly withstand just about anything the USPS can throw at it. The entire transaction was easy as can be.

[Steve Gledhill]

Dick Dokas' method of making your own GG has been reported on in occasional threads here in the past. Those who've tried is say it's easy and it works. And I can attest to the superb result (I haven't yet made one) as I've looked through his 10x8 GG. His method was originally published in Photo Techniques in 2003 but it's available on his website at:

http://www.dokasphotos.com/techniques/ground_glass/

[David Karp]

Well, I popped the 210 Caltar II-N on my Improved Seneca with the 5x7 GG by Steve Hopf. All I can say is pretty darn impressive. The image is beautiful, even, and bright. The gridlines are faint enough to disappear if you ignore them, and bright enough to be useful. It is one really nice piece of equipment at a very, very reasonable price.

I know it is fun and rewarding to make your own equipment, but after seeing the quality of this piece of glass, and thinking about the cost of buying a piece of glass, the abrasives, the time involved in those activities, plus the time involved in actually grinding the glass, etc., I am pretty positive I will be buying other GGs from Steve in the future.

[Dave_B]

If you are going to buy/use these types of polishing powders, you need to use a mask and be very careful about breathing the dust. The long term health hazards can be similar to those one finds with asbestos. Particles that are much smaller than one micron get absorbed if they end up in your lungs. Those that are much larger get slowly worked up and out as phlegm. Those around one micron stay there forever and act as conduits into your bloodstream for all the crap in the air you breathe such as cigarette smoke, pollution, etc. This is why exposure to asbestos is much, much worse if you are a smoker. If you are going to work with these types of particles, you need to treat them with care.
Thanks,
Dave B.

[SaveBears]

Dave_B...

You need to mitigate the risk, by using water or some other wetting soulution to ensure you have no dust, then there is no risk at all, the substances used for grinding glass as long as wet is not a problem.

Now if your etching with acid, you need to be very careful.

[rvhalejr]

I was wondering if anyone has tried to "snap in" the focus with a 35-40x loupe with some of these reportedly improved gg types. I've got pretty good gg now but that's not to say someone like dagor77 might come up with something better.

(If there is no slop at the optimal POF I would not need a glass or acrylic plenum).

Thanks,

R.

[SAShruby]

I'm in a final stage of making gridded ground glass in two varieties: generic and optical glass. I'm in the process of doing final testing and I'm hoping to have first products available in Q2-2009.

Sizes will be available from 6x6 to 20x24, with options to add fresnel as well. I'll keep you posted when GG will be available for purchase.

[Andrew O'Neill]

You should call it Rubyglass! Good luck!