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Daniel_Buck
7-Oct-2008, 12:12
Ok, so I have been using TF-4 for a year now, and It's been working wonderfully, accept for one thing. Once I open the bottle and mix a part of it, the re-sealed bottle of concentrate starts to form 'chunks/flakes' at the bottom of the bottle that never dissolve back into the solution. I usually mix each concentrated bottle into 3 batches, one batch every time I need a new one. I mean the initial concentrate in the bottle forms the flakes, not the mixed solution. The mixed solution I use up quick enough, but sometimes I'll go a few weeks (or even a month or two!) before I mix up another batch of fixer, and which point the resealed bottle of TF-4 concentrate has the flakes in it when I mix it into my working solution with 3 parts water.

So, I'm looking for another rapid archival fixer that doesn't require a chemical stop bath, just water to stop. And one that would last a good while once it's been resealed (the initial concentrate I mean). Maybe I should be looking for a fixer that comes in a powder, instead of a liquid? Maybe the powder concentrate would last longer than a liquid concentrate, once it's been opened an resealed?

Any suggestions? My film is Tri-x 320, and my developer is HC110.

Thanks for any suggestions!

vinny
7-Oct-2008, 12:22
If you heat it up and mix it, the flakes will often dissolve. You could filter it through a paper towel as well.
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=303&pid=608
It's what i've been using for 5 years. Recommended mix 1:9. I fix tri'x or tmy for 5 minutes. You could possibly dilute it less for faster times. I just finished a 5 liter jug today that i opened more than a year ago.

Daniel_Buck
7-Oct-2008, 12:25
Thanks Vinny! I thought about heating up the solution, but I don't have any pots that I don't use for cooking :-D I may try straining it next time it happens, as you suggested, for the bottles that I have remaining.

That Arista fixer, does it require a chemical stop? or will just a water stop do like it does for the TF-4?

BarryS
7-Oct-2008, 12:34
I've also been using TF-4, but will be switching over to locally purchased Kodak C-41 fixer to save on shipping costs. C-41 fixer is readily available in liquid form, inexpensive, and everything I've read indicates it's a perfectly good fixer for black and white film. It's also an alkaline fixer like TF-4.

If you're getting some difficult to dissolve precipitates in TF-4 you could heat the solution to help things dissolve or look for a stir plate--both work for stubbornly soluble chems. You can also just filter out the precipitate after you've done your dilution--it's not like fixer has to be at an exact concentration.

Ken Lee
7-Oct-2008, 13:04
You can make your own fixer too, using only a small number of ingredients.

A nice "classic" version is TF-3. The recipe is here (http://www.jackspcs.com/tf3.htm).

According to the site, it is more alkaline than the (newer and proprietary) TF-4.

The site also mentions that a Hypo Clearing Agent is not required with TF-3, but I use one anyway.

Since the active ingredient in Hypo Clear (http://www.digitaltruth.com/techdata/washaid.php) is Sodium Sulfite, one can simply make a 10% solution by adding a teaspoon of powder to a liter of water. It's really affordable, and you just toss it when you're done. One bottle of Sodium Sulfite has lasted me years and years. (The other ingredient in Hypo Clear is a stabilizer, but since you toss after use, there is no need to preserve - Hence no need to add it. Hence no need to buy it).

vinny
7-Oct-2008, 13:13
That Arista fixer, does it require a chemical stop? or will just a water stop do like it does for the TF-4?[/QUOTE]

NO. I use good old-fashioned tap water.
You can heat up your fixer in the microwave. Don't tell my wife, but it works!

Daniel_Buck
7-Oct-2008, 13:57
You can make your own fixer too, using only a small number of ingredients.

A nice "classic" version is TF-3. The recipe is here (http://www.jackspcs.com/tf3.htm).

According to the site, it is more alkaline than the (newer and proprietary) TF-4.

The site also mentions that a Hypo Clearing Agent is not required with TF-3, but I use one anyway.

Since the active ingredient in Hypo Clear (http://www.digitaltruth.com/techdata/washaid.php) is Sodium Sulfite, one can simply make a 10% solution by adding a teaspoon of powder to a liter of water. It's really affordable, and you just toss it when you're done. One bottle of Sodium Sulfite has lasted me years and years. (The other ingredient in Hypo Clear is a stabilizers, but since you toss after use, there is no need to preserve - Hence no need to add it. Hence no need to buy it.

Thanks for the suggestion! I'm not quite sure I want to be mixing raw materials, I like just adding water, keeps things more simple.


NO. I use good old-fashioned tap water.
You can heat up your fixer in the microwave. Don't tell my wife, but it works!

hah! :D

I ordered that jug of the Arista fixer, looks like it makes a nice lot of working solution, and hopfully it lasts a good while before it's mixed with water, thanks for the suggestion!

David A. Goldfarb
7-Oct-2008, 15:52
Why not just mix the whole bottle right from the beginning? TF-4 lasts a very long time, even the working solution. I've kept a film tank going for a year, just replenishing by adding more fixer as the level decreased. I've also kept it in a loosely covered tray for a month, discarding it when I've fixed 30 prints/liter. I buy the large bottle and mix it in a 5 gal. tank with a floating lid and a spout.