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Gary J. McCutcheon
6-Oct-2008, 19:41
Has anyone used a wide angle lens, 58mm, 47mm with a Master Technika , 2000 or 3000 using the flap open to get effective rise? I am curious to know how much extra rise is possible with these lenses with the use of the flap open? Will it give an extra 10 to 15mm or is it negligible? Is it enough to correct for converging verticals in occasional tight situations for architectural work?

I use a Super Technika V with a 75mm lens and get about 20mm of rise before the bellows pinches too much. I can see how the flap would be useful for this lens, but will the shorter lenses be in the box to far to be more than marginally useful with rise? I do have a monorail, but don't want to carry both cameras on location if something like the flap will work. I do realize this is somewhat of a hypothetical question since I can't specify a location other than it would be an architectural situation.

I have searched this site as well as Photo.net and APUG for a specific answer, but the discussions are more generalized WA with the Technika. I'm looking for someone who has actually used this flap and has either positive or negative feedback.

Thanks.

Gary

Phil Hudson
6-Oct-2008, 22:40
I have found that the WA flap on my MT2000 has really not been that useful. With the sort of ultra wide lenses you mention coverage pretty much runs out on 4x5 before the bellows pinch or the flap get opened.

I think the bellows on the MT2000 (and maybe also the MT) are made of a more flexible material compared to the older models, but I might be mistaken. Certainly the bellows seem happy enough to be pinched and still find their shape again.

Phil

Wilbur Wong
7-Oct-2008, 20:23
I can only comment based on a 65mm on an MT2000. At focus, the front standard just clears the open flap. Without munching the bellows, I can raise the lens about 20 mm, maybe a tad more. I use my 65mm on a flat lens board, and I don't recall ever using more than around 10 mm of rise, although at 20 mm of rise, I can still see an image at the corners. In the case of a 58mm on a flat board, I don't think you could get the standard to clear the flap opening so you will only get about 10mm. I'm sure you could still get up to 20mm if you could use a recessed lensboard, but I don't know how you could reach the controls without a dental pick.

In any case, I usually use my 65 inside the body as I often use the rear extension to effect some of my tilt and swing.

I suppose that if you really wanted more rise you could use a lensboard with a centered hole instead of an offset one. (The lowered shutter hole standard for Linhofs centers the lens in front of the film, this of course would be at the expense of always having some rise of the lens.)

shannaford
28-Oct-2008, 16:59
Hi Wilbur - just out of interest, how do you get around the problem of keeping the the flat bed out of the image area while using the 65mm lens? I'm using a 75mm on a Master Tech on a recessed lens board, and have to give a couple of cranks of rise to lift the flat bed out of the frame. I've found dropping the flat bed one notch and sliding the lens back into the camera so that it still focusses at infinity pretty difficult to do. Interested to hear how you get around this prob. BTW I also open the flap on the box when using rise - it's indispensible with the 75mm lens, I can only shudder to think how tricky it must be to get a 65mm to focus at infinity with a flat board, although you are using a different model.
Cheers,

Wilbur Wong
28-Oct-2008, 19:34
Hi Wilbur - just out of interest, how do you get around the problem of keeping the the flat bed out of the image area while using the 65mm lens? I'm using a 75mm on a Master Tech on a recessed lens board, and have to give a couple of cranks of rise to lift the flat bed out of the frame. I've found dropping the flat bed one notch and sliding the lens back into the camera so that it still focusses at infinity pretty difficult to do. Interested to hear how you get around this prob. BTW I also open the flap on the box when using rise - it's indispensible with the 75mm lens, I can only shudder to think how tricky it must be to get a 65mm to focus at infinity with a flat board, although you are using a different model.
Cheers,

Shanna,

On a MT2000 the section of rail that the front standard parks on when you close up the camera has a mechanism to move that section of rail in and out. In other words, my front standard when used with a 65 isn't even on the (drop) bed of the camera. With a 75mm in this position, you probably couldn't get a whole lot of rise, but you should be able to (awkardly) focus using that back rod controls with the earlier Tech's. In any case since the standard focusing track isn't even in play, you can drop it completely out of the way for even a 47mm. I believe the master tech uses the body space to link a cam focus. The MT2000 and MT 3000 stripped out the cam area to make way for a focusing mechanism inside the body.

http://www.badgergraphic.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=115

Regards

shannaford
29-Oct-2008, 16:16
Ah, yes, I forgot about that internal focussing track on the 2000/3000 - sounds like a much more sensible design, given I (and I'm guessing many others) prefer GG focussing and don't even bother with the rangefinder.
Cheers,
Scott