simple developing question

[zack kl]

I know that kodak indicator stop bath, kodak fixer and kodak hypo clearing agent can be used for both film and paper but can the same solution be used for both.
I'm developing my FIRST 4x5 (black and white) and as soon as the negatives dry I want to make contact prints. I was wondering if I can simply cover the trays after developing and use the same solution for the prints or do you need separate solutions, one for film and another for paper?- I haven't been able to find the answer in any of the Kodak literature. Thanks much, Zack

[mbdiesel]

Zack,

I don't think it will hurt if you use the same stop and fix solution for both film and paper. Hypo should be used only once (at least thats how I use it). When I first learned to develop and print my own B&W, I did use stop and fix solutions for both film and paper and I did not see any issues.

However, as I started better refining my processes, I use separate stop and fix for each. Not a scientific answer but hope it helps.

[Greg Lockrey]

Yep. Same as above.

[willwilson]

You should always use film strength fix with film. You can also use film strength fix with paper, it reduces the time needed for a print to be souped (see Ilford's website for archival processing methods). For me, stop bath is optional in both printing and developing film. It basically extends the life of your fix. When printing I use a water bath in between developer and fix tray #1. I recommend a two bath fix. I use Hypo 1:4 for film and paper.

Bruce Barnbaum has one of the best darkroom techniques books. It's a good read even for an advanced photographer:
http://barnbaum.com/artofphotography.html

[cyrus]

Hypoclearing agent is tossed after first use.

Stop bath can be reused -- but probably should not be reused. Why bother and why risk contamination issues when it is so cheap? Remember, stop is simply a very mild acid -- I use a bit of simple white vinegar in water and nothing more.

Fixer can be reused BUT in general, fixer that was used on film should not reused on paper since you can't tell by sight whether the fixer has worked or is exhausted when dealing with paper. However in your case I don't think using it just once on film and once more on prints will be a big problem. Just don't make a habit of it.

[IanG]

It's not a good idea to use fixer that's been used to processed films for paper, particularly fibre based, because of the iodide content (from the film emulsion). This can lead to incomplete fixation, leaving unstable silver/thiosulphate complexes in the paper which will cause staining over time.

Ian

[CG]

Stop is fine till it's dead. If you are the slightest bit careful and consistent in your procedures, you will not contaminate it. If you are so sloppy you get fix in your developer etc., get better at it now, or if you can't or won't, to be blunt, find another hobby. Indicator stop tells you it's reached it's end point by changing color. Vinegar works too, but could be wasteful since you don't know it's condition, so you have to discard early.

Fix is reusable. IanG is right to note to use separate fix for film. Get some hypo check to be sure it's good. This is one: www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=1000002176

Two bath fixing is a good idea for paper. The first bath is discarded when it reaches exhaustion and replaced with the second bath, which is replaced with fresh new fix. The print goes into the first bath to get the majority of the fixing accomplished, then into the second which ensures a complete job, and being fresh also for technical reasons, makes sure the paper washes more easily and completely.

Hypo clear is largely unneeded for films, but radically reduces the wash time for fiber based papers. Discarding hypo clear after one use seems terribly expensive to me.

As you get more experience, you can delve into all sorts of complexities should you wish, and we here will cheer you on, but at the beginning, you will benefit greatly by keeping to a simple routine till you know it inside out.

Best,

C

[zack kl]

Thanks everybody, I think I got it. Since I am learning and just doing tests I'll use stop, fix and hypo for both film and paper, keeping the hypo for no more than 24 hours. In time I can see keeping two separate solutions for fixer.
Also thanks for the "Barnbaum" recommendation. Cheers, Zack

[Brian Ellis]

I always reused hypo clear. The instructions on the bottle gave the capacity of the working solution and I just kept track of the # of prints that had been run through it. Same with fix. I never discarded fix after just one session. I used the two bath system and kept track of the number of prints. Apart from cost, it's just a pain to be constantly mixing chemicals (at least it is for me) so I reused stop, fix, and hypo clear up to their capacity.

[Lenny Eiger]

Thanks everybody, I think I got it. Since I am learning and just doing tests I'll use stop, fix and hypo for both film and paper, keeping the hypo for no more than 24 hours. In time I can see keeping two separate solutions for fixer.
Also thanks for the "Barnbaum" recommendation. Cheers, Zack

I use the very expensive product, called water, for stop bath.... makes life easy. I also use Formulary's fixer, which washes out much easier, one doesn't even need hypo-clear. I also reuse the fix, and test it until it isn't good anymore....

Lenny

[Ron Marshall]

I use the very expensive product, called water, for stop bath.... makes life easy. I also use Formulary's fixer, which washes out much easier, one doesn't even need hypo-clear. I also reuse the fix, and test it until it isn't good anymore....

Lenny

I do the same: cheap, easy, simple.

[Vicki Quinn]

Hi, I'm new.

Does hypo start to turn blue when it is no longer good?

Vicki :)

[CG]

Vicki,

Indicator stop bath will turn blue/purple when it is exhausted.

C

[D. Bryant]

I use a bit of simple white vinegar in water and nothing more.

Isn't white vinegar more expensive than indicator stop when mixed to the same pH?

Anyway you can reuse stop until it's dead and it extends the life of the fixer. I reuse fixer until it is exhausted and check it before each processing session.

I think many people under use the capacity of fixer.

I don't mix stop and fix used for film processing with paper processing.

I don't use hypoclear for film but do for paper which I will reuse through several sessions by keeping track of the amount of paper processed.

I do keep trays or graduates covered between sessions to prevent evaporation. Saran Wrap works perfectly for that and it to can be reused.


Don Bryant