A short drive to Inuvik, NWT

[Hollis]

Anyone driven the Dempster Highway up through the Yukon and into the Northwest Territories? I am in Port Angeles and got to looking at some maps (bad idea for me) and I think I am going to drive up there starting tomorrow.

Im thinking take the ferry to Victoria, BC then drive up Vancouver Island to Port Hardy, cross over to Prince Rupert, BC on the mainland then drive up the cassiar Hwy (fond memories there), up Canada 2 to Canada 4 then all the way up to the arctic circle.

Should be fun.

Less bugs now too.

[Eric James]

Lucky dog - it should be a great time to go.

Do you know about The Milepost?

http://milepost.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=291&Itemid=351

Have a great trip!

[tmastran]

Anyone driven the Dempster Highway up through the Yukon and into the Northwest Territories? I am in Port Angeles

Hollis,

A few years ago I had to go to Port Angeles on business. I couldn't believe how picturesque it was up there, and this was in the winter. Someday I'd love to go back. I could spend months with my LF gear and never run out of ideas.

[Merg Ross]

Not specific to your question, but I have spent weeks driving between Victoria and Port Hardy; so much to see and photograph. I assume that you will be crossing on the Coho from Port Angeles.

If time permits, south of Courtenay, take the ferry to Hornby Island via Denman Island and then to Tribune Bay. I think you will find something to photograph; you are fortunate to be in a beautiful part of the world.

Hope that you return with a lot of keepers.

[Andrew O'Neill]

A colleague of mine just came back from driving the Dempster. He's a whimp, though. Flew into Dawson from Vancouver and rented a car. He said the scenery is spectacular. Another person I know went in September and said the colours were stunning. One of these days I hope to head up there.

[jim kitchen]

Dear Hollis,

The ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert is an evening ferry ride, and a ride that takes about eighteen hours, where you must book your trip early, because the ferry is very busy at this time of year with everyone returning to the mainland with their campers, and camper vans. Once you leave your vehicle on the ferry you will not be allowed to return to it, so bring what you need to the main deck and, or your sleeper room after parking your vehicle. You should also book the return trip if you plan to return via the same route because of the increased vehicle traffic at this time of the year.

The ferry leaves Port Hardy about 7:00am and arrives in Prince Rupert about midnight, where the Prince Rupert hotel room should be booked ahead of time too, or you may get caught in the rush to find a room with everyone flying off the ferry late at night, or you could sleep in your vehicle...

There is only one ferry that makes the round trip, so if you leave Prince Rupert, it will be close to midnight too and arrive in Port Hardy around 6:00am. Remember that you are deep within grizzly bear country, if you decide to stop along the side of the road to capture a few images, while in the Prince Rupert area and while you are on your way to Highway #37.

A standby is an option for you too, and if you must stay in Port Hardy, watch out for a character that periodically likes to run into your vehicle with his bicycle, claiming you hit him by accident. Been there, done that, peed there. :)

I believe the cost is approximately $400Cdn one way, but that cost was a while ago when I did that route to the mainland, and traveled to the Queen Charlotte Islands from Prince Rupert.

The evening ride on the ferry is excellent...

You will enjoy a great trip to Inuvik, NWT.

jim k

[Dave Aharonian]

I made the drive from Victoria to Inuvik about 10 years ago. I took the interior route which is certainly less interesting than the ferry from Port Hardy. I left Dawson City around Sept 5 and caught the change of colours along the Dempster. It was unbelievably spectacular. I kept stopping the car every 10 minutes to gawk or take a photo - or pick cranberries! It eventually rained which is the only reason I made it to Inuvik - I had to stop shooting. The Tombstone area in particular is worth the trip alone. If you can make the trip soon, do it!!! Make sure your vehicle is reliable though - the roads can be a bit rough and its a long way!

Dave

[redrockcoulee]

Spent a month working along the Dempster in 1984. My only suggestions as it has been a long time ago is carry extra fuel and more than one spare tire. Eagle Plains was the only dependable gas station along the way although I think fuel may be able to be got at Fort MacPhearson. I loved the Richardson Mountains, not as rugged as the Tombstones as they were not glaciated in the last ice age. The summer I was there a few made the trip up by motorcycle, talked to two Germans who were on BMWs of course and one was just a regular road bike the other a Dakar GS. They actually met in Vancouver and had not know each other previously.

Wish to go up again sometime as it is simply beautiful and peaceful up there. The first night was up there my prof who is a workaholic said we would work until dark then pitch our tents and have supper. "Fine Pete" I said" but it is July 5 and we are 2 km south of the Arctic circle and it will not get dark until the middle of August" We stopped working around 11 and set up camp.

Unfortunately in Sept you will miss the mosquito/blackfly season.

[Richard Martel]

I'm in Whitehorse YT as I'm sending this. The colors are changing fast...an early fall. Light dusting of snow in the high country now.
Drove the Dempster in '06 Was below freezing at night on August 15th. Take two spare tires with good tires on vehicle. The new gravel on the roadbed can be very sharp. The road in '06 was in good condition. Enjoy...You should have great color. I'll be spending a month up there next year.
Regards Richard, Florida keys

[Eric James]

Two spares is good idea - don't go with just one. Motoring north of the Arctic Circle with a flat spare is not as peaceful as it could or should be. Also consider taking a bike tire floor pump and a 5-gallon water container.

[Allen in Montreal]

Hollis and Richard,

After posts like these, we now expect a photo report in the near future!
it sounds like a great trip.

[Hollis]

Sorry it has been a bit since I have posted but the internet connections are not that readily available up here.

Anyways, I am in Prince Rupert right now and for anyone who cares, you have to be at the ferry at 5:30 am in Port Hardy to depart by 7:30. It is a 15 hour trip and we got in at 10:30. The cost was $475 cdn for a vehicle and one person. You can get down to your car numerous times during the voyage so that is not a problem. I called and booked a hotel as soon as we had cell service nearing Prince Rupert.

Anyways, I leave in the morning for the long trek north and hopefully I won't be getting froze out once I get up there. I need to go and pick up a second spare tire (not looking forward to that) but better safe than sorry. I think that a tire patch kit and some tire slime for dire situations would be good.

I had to cut short my travels on Vancouver island so as not to go too late in the season otherwise I would still be down there slaying the steelhead and giving my fly rod some much needed flex.

Ok, photos will be forthcoming.

[venchka]

Hollis,

Don't know about the fishing, but Vancouver Island is great year round. If you didn't make it to the west coast of the island, by all means try to get there.

Good luck! Stay warm!

[JW Dewdney]

I'm trying to find the route and info now... as an option for you. But one of the most stunning roadtrips I'd ever taken was INLAND on the mainland, parallel to the train's path through the interior. There were some just STUNNING settings... not a road well-travelled - but it was kept up decently (gravel) - but WELL worth it! You might consider that as an option on the way back. Vancouver island pales in comparison...

[pkphotog]

Even with limited time, driving the Dempster would be a highlight in anyone’s lifetime. The Tombstones will simply take your breath away. It’s a shame you probably won’t have time to visit the spectacular Kluane National Park, or the amazing Chilkoot trail.

I would skip driving the Alaska Hwy on the way back (tedious and boring) and drive the 37 back down. After Meziadin Lake take a right turn onto Nisga’a Hwy (113) and head for New Aiyansh and photograph the moonscaped lava beds. Then head down to Terrace and try the legendary Copper (Zymoetz) for Steelhead. You won’t regret it. There are many other rivers that you can try, the Bulkley, Kispiox, Nass, Kalum, and the Sustat. If you love steelheading you may never go home. Then there is Rainbow Alley on the Babine. Anyways, happy photographing (and fishing).

[Eric James]

Hollis,

Tire Slime - as you call it - requires that you re-inflate the tire asap. I once used three cans of that crap and barely made it five miles. Anyway, I'm glad that you've decided to buy a second spare. Happy trails.

pkphotog - thanks for the location tips.

[Hollis]

I have hiked Kluane a few times and loved it, amazing place. I actually have a few first ascents of some peaks there (very minor though). Anyways, I have bad news. I was actually going north to New Aiyansh today to set up camp and on the way up there I ended up rolling my truck 4 times due to some loose (unseen) gravel on a sweeping turn. I am unhurt, not a scratch actually, but the truck is totaled. Fortunately, all my gear is safe and sound. I am really, really not happy about the situation. I will have to come back up but with some company that time. Now, I am stuck in Terrace until insurance figures it all out. So, if anyone is in Terrace and wants to take me shooting or fishing, let me know. You can drive but I will pitch in some gas for sure.