Eccentric questions on Elwood 8x10 enlarger

[Murray]

I could have added on to an existing Elwood enlarger thread, but I'm heading off more into the weeds than most of the other posts.

I just picked up an Elwood 8x10 that I began asking questions about last January or so.

Question #1)

I may at some point try a cold head, but am particularly interested in the glass diffusion plate they used. Most of them are missing this component due to transit damage, but I'm wondering who still has their original diffuser (Bob C has communicated with me previously) and would be willing to either email a photo of it or verbally describe the approximate diameter of the most heavily ground/blasted center, and least diffused outer edges. I just want a visual to go with the description in the Elwood manual, catalog, 1929 patent, etc.

I know it's not enough to characterize what is needed to solve the illumination problems, but knowing what was done originally will provide some perspective.

I don't know when opal lamps were first implemented, but the patent (1929) states frosted lamps work very well with one of their reflector shapes (they made or at least investigated elliptical, parabolic and I think one other, reflectors per the patent.

Then the later (1940's) catalog clearly says frosted will NOT work well - opal is necessary. So, either the descriptions changed or their esthetics did, over the years

I may try flashed opal glass above the negative carrier, but want to put some effort into the original method or combinations (opal diffuser plus central ground glass above that).

Question #2:

What is the counterweight/tension method (weight, spring, neither)? I see what looks like a retractable steel tape (one is missing) on the back of the cast iron floor stand.

Question #3:

How feasible might it be to mount the cast iron stand on an industrial "work surface", which is unfortunately a meaningful term where I live due to the abundance of furniture companies, but maybe not to you. I have 24"x30" laminated (as in Formica-clad, not as in laminated like plywood) 'work surfaces' that are 1.25" or 1.5" thick, some type of high density particle or other impregnated board, with wheels and leveling?

Center of gravity and vibration are the practical concerns.

Thanks

Murray Leshner
Holland MI

[John Kasaian]

#!) Mine has lost it's diffuser long before I got my mitts on it. Flashed opal glass is expensive hard to get in the size needed to fit inside the head, beside it cut off an awful amount of light. I had a piece of float glass sandblasted at a local stained glass shop (15"x15"? 12"x12"? I forgot---sorry!) to fit the squared off section insode the head, below the lamp and above the negative stage. I works just fine, IMHO.

#2) If you have the housings the steel tapes go into you'll find that the tapes from an Omega D2 will drop right in. Lighter duty than the original Elwood stuff but they work fine anyway (once again IMHO) They are (were?) still available from Satter Omega IIRC. I wrote a brief article on this problem and it was published in View Camera. They might be able to provide you with a back issue (darned if I can remember the year!)

#3) My Elwood is mounted (bolted) on what looks to be a formica clad table top (no legs) with wheels. It sure makes it easy to move the beast around.

Good luck! :)

[Murray]

I think I saw someone's post about 14"x14" re: the glass.

Good on the wheeled base. It was hard to tell disassembled what will happen regarding it's balance. Right now the 'tapes' are not connected, the reflector is off and the lower half of the lamp head is removed from the base. Like that, the hinged base understandably doesn't want to stay vertical, but interestingly, folded at the hinge, it will sit stably on the 3-hole base with the long vertical section tilted horizontally. This is meaningless in it's state of disassembly, but convenient for sitting in the garage in two plastic bags.

To what are the tapes connected? To the lower portion of the lamp/negative head?

It's going to take a little study to figure out the function of the lamp head design for me - looks like a couple mounting systems internally to hold glass, as we've been discussing. There is a thin slot on at least one side. This one has some aluminum angle brackets added in some kind of negative carrier modification, but there is no carrier included.

There is a flip down bracket close to the lensboard area, presumably for a filter. This makes me curious about the long thin slot...a darkslide to pass or block light ?!?

M

[ic-racer]

I love projects like this! Can you post some pictures? I want to see what I am missing. I almost bought an Elwood to restore, but wound up fixing up a Durst instead.

[raucousimages]

My tapes were chewed up and the springs dead so added an eye bolt to the top of the frame with a cable to two pullies on the ceiling and a counter weight. It works well but when I change height I need to let the weight stop moving before printing.

[John Kasaian]

To what are the tapes connected? To the lower portion of the lamp/negative head?


M

On the casting, right above where the wheel for raising and lowering the lamp housing and directly under where the spring housings would be there are two holes. Hooks can be inserted and bolted on from below. To these hooks I've put triangles with 1" sides (I suppose you could used eye bolts instead of hooks, open up the eye and insert the triangle and mash the eye closed if you wanted, but it sounds like too much work and I am of a lazy nature) The tapes, if you[re using Omega D2 parts, have a sheet metal hook that will fit onto the 1" triangle side nicely. It is all nickel and dime hardware stuff.

If you are using the original Elwood tapes, you're on your own---when I got my Elwood the ends of the tapes were broken off and the one hook that remained was a bent nail! :D

[Murray]

Good idea on photographing the process...I will try to invest the effort.

Other than convenience of pickup, this was probably the most practical 8x10 enlarger for someone of my runtly stature to acquire. It does outweigh me, but the horizontal alternatives seemed to be heavier yet. Appearance of one within driving distance also eliminated my contemplating building a horizontal enlarger from scratch with probably inappropriate materials...I am prone to avoiding doing things the simplest way...

[John Kasaian]

There is a flip down bracket close to the lensboard area, presumably for a filter. This makes me curious about the long thin slot...a darkslide to pass or block light ?!?

M

You're right, the flip down bracket between the lens and negative is to hold a red filter.
I never did figure out what that slot is for (or those two holes in the lower column!)

[lenser]

280247762241

There's a guy on ebay with this manual right now. Maybe it would help with some of the questions.

[raucousimages]

The long thin slots are for blades that slid in or out to block excess light when useing an undersized neg.

[aduncanson]

280247762241

There's a guy on ebay with this manual right now. Maybe it would help with some of the questions.


I was told by a surviving family member that Elwood Roger died bankrupted from trying to defend his patents from infringement by Eastman Kodak. I do not know the copyright status of this Instruction Manual, but it pains me to see somebody else profiting from what would seem to be the intellectual property of Elwood Roger's estate.

Consistent with that sentiment or not as you may see it, here is the same manual (for a 5x7 Elwood enlarger) available for viewing on line.

http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/elwood/elwood.html

[Murray]

I contacted the Indpls Historical Society (or similar name) to see if they had any history on Elwood Pattern Works. Apparently it was quite an operation at one time.

All they had was 2 brochures from 1915 and 1938. I had a catalog from 1955, so that at least gives a minimum time line.

I also opened up my non-functional counter-force spring (missing square loop end), and found a mfr. name and part number (Caldwell Mfg, interestingly in Rochester NY). No answer from them about availability of the item (it was a sash window balance spring). Caldwell is 120 years old, and Pullman Mfg, also in Rochester, is 122 years old and their web site says many of their items fit as replacements for Caldwell ones.

This gives me an idea to see if I can get the missing loop end replaced at a window repair place.

[John Kasaian]

I contacted the Indpls Historical Society (or similar name) to see if they had any history on Elwood Pattern Works. Apparently it was quite an operation at one time.

All they had was 2 brochures from 1915 and 1938. I had a catalog from 1955, so that at least gives a minimum time line.

I also opened up my non-functional counter-force spring (missing square loop end), and found a mfr. name and part number (Caldwell Mfg, interestingly in Rochester NY). No answer from them about availability of the item (it was a sash window balance spring). Caldwell is 120 years old, and Pullman Mfg, also in Rochester, is 122 years old and their web site says many of their items fit as replacements for Caldwell ones.

This gives me an idea to see if I can get the missing loop end replaced at a window repair place.

Thanks, Murray!
I tried contacting Caldwell Mfg a few years back and couldn't get an answer either. If Pullman has a replacement, that would be great. FWIW I used springs for an Omega D-2 and it drops right into the original housing and works OK.

[Murray]

Caldwell Mfg only makes tubular spiral window balances now.

They sold the tooling to L&L Concepts of Hagerstown, MD.

http://www.llconceptsinc.com/

They still make the (Caldwell) 154 that is in my 8x10 (Commercial C-2? with mahogany back portion of the lamp head bottom half (great description, huh?), as well as a 150 and 242.

There are a few different mounting styles. The non-functional Elwood counterbalance I opened had a 'post-factory'-bent Caldwell 154 baseplate (curved rather than straight or 90 degree).

The number stamped on the balance spring is the weight rating for a pair of balance springs. Mine says '50'. Apparently 'stock' tape length is coincidentally 50", but L&L told me the stamped 50 means 50# for two.

I don't know what the Omega D-2 balance spring/tapes cost, but L&L will sell them to individuals (unlike Caldwell, who doesn't make them anyway). The 154's are about $100 a pair I was told. I haven't figured out if a stock one will fit with the straight or 90 degree baseplate. I wouldn't want to bend one as an assembly, nor does it seem wise to remove the baseplate with the 25# clockspring 'wound.

It takes a 'special fixture' or tool to rewind the spring, they say.

A hacksaw might work to simply remove the extended base foot if necessary. I need to measure mine to be sure it is identical before considering buying one.