slow speed 4x5 film?

[Daniel_Buck]

I've picked up a fast lens petzval type lens from our friend Jim Galli, with a fixed aperture of f2.0 or there abouts. I'm currently using Tri-x 320, the combo fo f2.0 and 320 ISO film, which is wonderful for low-light shooting!

However, this means I can't really use the lens in the day time outside (and I want to leave the lens with a wide aperture!). I'm using the lens on a speedgraphic, so my maximum shutter speed is 1/1000th (I've tested it, and 1/1000th seems to be fairly accurate). This helps alot, but not enough.

So anyway, I'm wanting to take this lens and speed graphic to a vintage car race soon to have some fun with some vintage looking shots of old race cars. I think I'm going to want some slower speed film, I think ISO 25 film would put me at about 1/500th at f2.0. And in addition to that, I may put a filter on the lens to reduce the light even more, so I can get a bit of motion blur on the background/wheels in some shots.

So, what would be a good option for slow B&W film used in broad daylight? The slowest speed I see on Freestyle Photographic's website is ISO 25, here are the films I see:

Rollei ORTHO 25, I don't mind the Ortho film, it may actually even enhance the 'vintage' feel of the photographs. I'm not going for accurate vintage photos, just something that has a nice vintage look.

Adox ORT25 Ortho,

Adox CHS 25 Art, (out of stock)

Efke PL 25 M, however they specifically mention to NOT over expose, so I'm guessing this would probably not be a good film to use, since I'll probably be shooting at a lower ISO than rated, then backing off on my development so that I can get some motion blur.

Any advice on which one of these films would fit my needs? or any other options?

[CG]

Some developers are "speed losing" and will make a film act slower than the rated speed. Betweeen that and ND filters, you can work with any film you want.

C

[Jiri Vasina]

Of those, I have tried the Adox CHS 25 Art and it's a very nice film (developed in R09). Very modest grain, nice tonality.

I can not comment on the others, though.

[rwyoung]

Freestyle's APHS litho film is pretty slow stuff. Not panchromatic of course. Also RC B&W paper in the film holders. Rate that around ISO 8. Grade 2, matte/pearl is a bit better than multigrade stuff.

[Lenny Eiger]

Efke PL 25 M, however they specifically mention to NOT over expose, so I'm guessing this would probably not be a good film to use, since I'll probably be shooting at a lower ISO than rated, then backing off on my development so that I can get some motion blur.

I hear this, but it makes no sense to me. I have done alot of testing with it - consequently I have overexposures, under exposures and right on. They are appear the same. I think this is a rumor that caught on...

Lenny

[Jim Noel]

Efke PL 25 and get some ND filters. Get in touch with a stage and lighting supplier and buy them in 12" square sheets for little or nothing.

[Daniel_Buck]

Efke PL 25 and get some ND filters. Get in touch with a stage and lighting supplier and buy them in 12" square sheets for little or nothing.
a friend of mine who will be going has a rubber-band filter holder and a few 4" ND filters, so those are the filters I'll be using. But yea, with this lens I would probably stick anything infront of it, since it's not a very high quality lens, I'm not worried about extra flare and stuff from filters.

[Dave Aharonian]

I have an f3.8 Petzval that I use on my 5x7 with he same problem. I've been shooting Efke 25, rated at 12 (developed in PMK) and its working very well. I have had some slight over exposure but it hasn't been a big deal so far. My lens has a slot for a waterhouse stop which I use to stick one or two pieces of ND gel which I have trimmed to fit inside. So far its worked great!

[Neil Purling]

I have been using Maco Genius Print Film. For a smooth tonal range it works out at 3 ASA developed in R09 for 8 min @ 20C.
I have however encountered a greater tendency towards holes in the negative.
Maybe someone can PM me since such a digression might not be welcome. I wondered if the problem is down to agitation and using a tank when the film was probably meant for tray development, like a regular print.
Moderator: Please edit this post if you consider the slight off-topic excursion unwelcome

[Daniel_Buck]

Neil, print film? As in, positive not negative? And it develops with a regular negative film developer?

[Jim Galli]

I've had good luck pulling Efke 25 with PcatHD. The Catechol seems to solve a lot of those problems.

[Daniel_Buck]

I haven't done anything with any type of pyro. Are you using stand developing for a long period of time to pull the exposure? I develop my 4x5's in a Jobo rotary drum 6 at a time in a reel (I usually use inversion instead though), think one of these drums would be sufficient for stand developing, if that's what would be required to pull a few stops?

Looks like this will be an interesting trip, new lens, new film, and new developer (unless I try with my HC110)! plenty of room for error, no doubt! :-D

[Jim Galli]

I haven't done anything with any type of pyro. Are you using stand developing for a long period of time to pull the exposure? I develop my 4x5's in a Jobo rotary drum 6 at a time in a reel (I usually use inversion instead though), think one of these drums would be sufficient for stand developing, if that's what would be required to pull a few stops?

Looks like this will be an interesting trip, new lens, new film, and new developer (unless I try with my HC110)! plenty of room for error, no doubt! :-D

Well, thanks for the vote of confidence but I'm not that sophisticated. I just put the stuff in the Jobo and spin at the lowest speed. 6 1/2 min becomes 4 1/4 for a pull. That's as good as it gets at my house :o

[Neil Purling]

The Maco Genius Print film I have used has one problem.
I assume that it is designed for tray developement.
There would be no way of telling the coat side from topside without the notch as both appear matt.
I have had problems with holes in the negatives. They appear in groups or singly and are not sharp edges so I guess they are from bubbles adhering to the film when in the tank. I pre-soak of course and bash the tank as much as I dare to liberate bubbles.
Is the problem related to the fact the film may be tray developed and agitated almost continuously? Normally I agitate continuously for the first minute and then for 15 secs per min.
The way I develop the film in Rodinal 1:50 the process time is between 8&9 min @ 20C. The contrast is excellent and the speed of 3 ASA takes me down as far as I can go with sheet film.

Any ideas to avoid the development problem?

[Neil Purling]

I figured that the Maco Genius was meant for tray development.
Agitation is the key here: 30 secs per min, the first minute having continuous agitation.
I would not fill the tank more than half full so I can have double the space between sheets
I would guess that you could use 1:100 and try 8.5 minutes. Have to try that and see.
No bubble-holes so far.
I have been using a meter rating of 3 ASA. Highlights don't look too bad.
A comparison with one of my other slow films, the Kodak 4125 copy film would be interesting. I have had nice results from that, but it is like 2 stops faster at 12 ASA.

[Daniel_Buck]

I decided to just stick with Tri-X, and held another sheet or two of ND filter infront of the lens to get the shutter speeds down to 1/60th or so. Worked out great! Lets hope the results turn out ok, I'll develop some of them tonight!