PDA

View Full Version : Jobo 2840 drum for film



Dirk Rösler
13-Jun-2008, 06:01
Hi, I just bought a Jobo 2840 drum which i want to use for paper and film. Did a first couple of 8x10 sheets in it today. When finished, the film is really stuck to the drum walls and difficult to remove. I managed by removing those little spacers and peel the film off (the famous hole in Acros facilitated some paper clip action), but it seems risky to damage film. Any tricks/advice to easily get film out of a Jobo paper drum (perhaps need to leave water in it)?

Sal Santamaura
13-Jun-2008, 06:38
My best advice is to get a 3005 Expert Drum. The five "cylinders" in an Expert are not cylindrical at all. Rather, they have larger diameters in their centers than ends, a 'reverse-hourglass' shape, to ensure fluid can access the back of film.

So now I've joined those who post in threads with alternative approaches instead of answsers to questions. :( It's well-intentioned, not an attempt to be annoying. By the way, I've observed that Acros lays closer against the drum wall than any other manufacturers' sheet films. In an Expert Drum I consider it an advantage, since there's no tendency for the film to shift around during processing. With your 2840 it probably makes the problem worse.

Chauncey Walden
13-Jun-2008, 08:11
I load and unload in water.

Jiri Vasina
13-Jun-2008, 09:30
Does the drum have the ridges along it? My 2830 drum does, and it's not difficult to remove the film - and they function as spacer between the film and the wall of the drum.

I can very well remove it without water in it.

Dirk Rösler
13-Jun-2008, 14:35
Thanks, I will try the water method or switching to expert drums/a different film/digital/voodoo magic... Yes, avoidance is a solution, but we're not quite there yet :)

Dirk Rösler
13-Jun-2008, 19:31
Had a different idea: since the 2840 is modular, you can take the extension off when finished giving better access to the sheets. Actually, it seems easier to push them out instead of pulling... thanks.

Gregg Cook
19-Jun-2008, 07:35
loading without the clips may help too. Does really help with paper.

Fred L
19-Jun-2008, 08:36
When I was using the 2840 for 8x10 film, I did the same as Chauncey and filled it with water, releases the tension and film comes out much easier. No sticktion to the drum.

Do the same thing with the 3010 drums and 4x5 film.

Gregg Cook
28-Jun-2008, 20:38
plus one on losing the clips and leaving the bottom off.

a 2830 might work better. they use less soup.

same drum flat bottom. for 8 x 10

Keith Tapscott.
29-Jun-2008, 02:58
I have processed 8x10 sheets in a 2800 series print drum with very uniform processing.
The poor man`s Expert Drum. I used 500ml each of working strength developer, stop-bath and fixer to process two sheets of 8x10.

Ole Tjugen
29-Jun-2008, 03:57
I do all my larger (larger than 4x5") sheet films in 2830 and 2840 drums, and have also found unloading in water to be the best way.

I prefer to keep the clips in - getting 5x7" slides damaged from overlapping film during processing is not fun. The clips stay.

Nick_3536
29-Jun-2008, 05:01
a 2830 might work better. they use less soup.



Which might be a problem depending on your developer. The 2840 uses so little that for most people they'll be far over the lower limit on chemicals.

Joanna Carter
29-Jun-2008, 10:40
No sticktion to the drum.
OK Fred, so now I have a new word to my vocabulary :rolleyes:

Keith Tapscott.
29-Jun-2008, 11:34
OK Fred, so now I have a new word to my vocabulary :rolleyes:
You can find it in the `Stickionary`.:D

ic-racer
12-Jul-2009, 08:41
I just wanted to add my recent experience to this thread.

I obtained both the 2830 and 2840 drums for about $65 and connected them together. The 2840 is actually a 2870 extension with the little 2820 test drum bottom. So I rearranged to make the 2850, which is a 2870 with a 2830 bottom. And I had a little 2820 drum left over.

The 2850 drum holds 4 sheets of 8x10 (vs five in the expert drum) and I believe the 2820 drum will hold 2 sheets of 4x5 but have not tried it yet.

I'm using 260 cc chemistry and results are excellent. Very even development. No clips. Washing in the drum. No problem getting the film in or out. Photoflo in a separate 8x10 tray. The 2850 drum on the Jobo lift can easily be lifted by pushing on the 'heel' of the lift, eliminating the need to lift up with the fragile handle.

I like my 4x5 expert drum but don't see any need in looking for an expert drum for 8x10.

shaunmlavery
4-Nov-2009, 08:21
Sorry to bump this but I think I am about to recieve a 2840. At first I was super excited knowing that I could process some 8x10 in a drum but it seems you guys are a little indifferent on the matter. When the time comes, I will definately use the water approach.

My question to all of you who actually use the 2840, how does the film actually fit in the drum? I have read some can develop 2 sheets at once? Is this advisable?

Thanks guys.

Chauncey Walden
4-Nov-2009, 10:50
Just a caution about pyro and a drum with ribs: uneven staining can occur, especially and dramatically with Max-Pyro. Not so bad with PMK. When my motorized tray gave up the ghost I tried the drums on my Jobo and got the bad news. Worked fine with Rodinal. I ended up with a 3005 and a Beseler base for 5x7 and 8x10 with no problems. Another motor base (Chromega?) didn't work so well.

soeren
4-Nov-2009, 11:38
I just wanted to add my recent experience to this thread.

I obtained both the 2830 and 2840 drums for about $65 and connected them together. The 2840 is actually a 2870 extension with the little 2820 test drum bottom. So I rearranged to make the 2850, which is a 2870 with a 2830 bottom. And I had a little 2820 drum left over.

The 2850 drum holds 4 sheets of 8x10 (vs five in the expert drum) and I believe the 2820 drum will hold 2 sheets of 4x5 but have not tried it yet.

I'm using 260 cc chemistry and results are excellent. Very even development. No clips. Washing in the drum. No problem getting the film in or out. Photoflo in a separate 8x10 tray. The 2850 drum on the Jobo lift can easily be lifted by pushing on the 'heel' of the lift, eliminating the need to lift up with the fragile handle.

I like my 4x5 expert drum but don't see any need in looking for an expert drum for 8x10.
Regarding the 2820 Drum
Actually if you got the 1520 drum you can switch the funel/cup in the lids of the two, take the centerpost, add an 2509n reel and can do 6 sheets of 4X5" in your 2820/2520(in discuise)
Best regards

ic-racer
4-Nov-2009, 12:35
Regarding the 2820 Drum
Actually if you got the 1520 drum you can switch the funel/cup in the lids of the two, take the centerpost, add an 2509n reel and can do 6 sheets of 4X5" in your 2820/2520(in discuise)
Best regards

Interestig. I do see that the 2800 drums do have the groove at the bottom to hold the center post.

Just to update my experience with the 2800 drums. I have been doing four 8x10 at a time and have done about 50 sheets that way and am even getting an extra 2800 drum to do 8 sheets with back-to-back processor runs (without having to dry and re-load a single drum).

Skip Roessel
8-Nov-2009, 13:53
I run 5x7 and 13x18cm in the five cavities of a 3005 Expert Jobo, and had the same problem until I got a hemostat -- that surgical tool with tweezer jaws on a sissors handle -- and grabbing the film on tiniest corner can drag it out no matter how tightly it sticks. A millimeter or two of the corner is totally chewed up, of course.

Before I got this, I was peeling the film off the cavity wall with a sharp pencilpoint, but often my fingers were not long enough to grasp it.

Skip Roessel

"If a thing is worth doing, it is worth doing badly."

ic-racer
8-Nov-2009, 16:07
I never mentioned that since I dry my sheet film hanging from hemostats, it was just a natural thing to grab the film edge and pull the film out of the tank. This eliminated any concerns about negative removal. A good hemostat only needs about 1 or 2 mm of film edge for a good grip.

Ole Tjugen
8-Nov-2009, 23:27
... Any tricks/advice to easily get film out of a Jobo paper drum (perhaps need to leave water in it)?

That's what I do. With the drum standing in the sink, full of water, getting the film out is very easy. No specialist tools needed.

shaunmlavery
9-Nov-2009, 21:37
Hmm, well I didn't win the tank I was bidding on. I didn't really pursue it after some of the comments you guys left. I didn't really know how much it was worth.

Should I keep my eye out for one or just tray process it? My 8x10 is staring at me right now. That bastard.

I have been shooting the rollei and I cleaned it the other day before I went out and the mirror broke. Now I'm stuck with a 5D. I feel sick.

I just need a somewhat easy method for developing. I don't exactly have a darkroom. I use a tank for my 120/220. This is what intrigued me so much about that jobo tank.

I told myself I wouldn't use the 8x10 again until I could process the film myself, so any advice you guys have is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

soeren
10-Nov-2009, 01:21
Hmm, well I didn't win the tank I was bidding on. I didn't really pursue it after some of the comments you guys left. I didn't really know how much it was worth.

Should I keep my eye out for one or just tray process it? My 8x10 is staring at me right now. That bastard.

I have been shooting the rollei and I cleaned it the other day before I went out and the mirror broke. Now I'm stuck with a 5D. I feel sick.

I just need a somewhat easy method for developing. I don't exactly have a darkroom. I use a tank for my 120/220. This is what intrigued me so much about that jobo tank.

I told myself I wouldn't use the 8x10 again until I could process the film myself, so any advice you guys have is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Hmm how much is it worth? Difficult to say: I bought an Unidrum for 5 reels at a "buy it now" sale for 29.95€ and was kicking myself until I saw one going for 62.70€ 2 days later. I got overbid on a 2553 without reels and it went for 59€ while I won an 2563 with 6 reels for 30€. I know the 2563 is to big for my CPE but the reels alone is worth more, at least to me. So how much is it worth? How much are you willing to pay.
You can tray process your 8X10. A friend of mine does that, but It is very easy to develop sheet in a 28XX drum and I think we have all experienced ueven development regardless of the method used. I find the CPE2 and the 2840 drum to be the easiest and best way for me. The Paterson Orbital resulted in some uneven negs and so did inversion agitating a Paterson 3 reel drum. Then again my largest negs are 13X18cm and YMMW. talking Pyro, there are some formulas especially for Rotary processing one of which is called Rollo Pyro. Havn't tried any of them though just wanted to mention it
Best regards

mattydk
17-Aug-2011, 01:16
Bumping up a seriously old thread here but I need some advice.

I just got a 2840 drum with the cup lid. I want to develop some 5x7 film and my question is regarding what lid to use to maintain a light tight seal on the drum.

The drum comes with the cup, can I still use that (I suppose it's used for paper so why not film right?). Should I hunt for a cog lid or can I use the lid of my 2521 drum?

What do the other users of the 2840 drum use?

Any help would be appreciated ;)

Matt.

Greg Blank
17-Aug-2011, 18:14
Look at the second photo down in this thread, thats the stopper you will need for the
funnel lid.

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=77099


Bumping up a seriously old thread here but I need some advice.

I just got a 2840 drum with the cup lid. I want to develop some 5x7 film and my question is regarding what lid to use to maintain a light tight seal on the drum.

The drum comes with the cup, can I still use that (I suppose it's used for paper so why not film right?). Should I hunt for a cog lid or can I use the lid of my 2521 drum?

What do the other users of the 2840 drum use?

Any help would be appreciated ;)

Matt.

tgtaylor
17-Aug-2011, 18:56
The stopper Greg references above is probably the best for both film and paper but you can also use the cup for film as you do with paper.

Thomas

mattydk
19-Aug-2011, 02:40
thanks for the info guys!

Roger Vadim
20-Aug-2011, 11:25
Just a caution about pyro and a drum with ribs: uneven staining can occur, especially and dramatically with Max-Pyro. Not so bad with PMK. When my motorized tray gave up the ghost I tried the drums on my Jobo and got the bad news. Worked fine with Rodinal.

Same here, the film will touch the ribs and you'll have even lines from less staining at that part (that is on the back of the negative...):(
Tanol Speed is what I used. Quite annoing, a 3005 is out of reach at the moment...