Drum processing 8x10 HP5?

[Waldo]

How would I go about this? Ive never even thought about doing this and then realized that I have a cibachrome tube. I don't have a roller thingy so will I have to constantly roll it?


Thanks
Dave

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

How would I go about this? Ive never even thought about doing this and then realized that I have a cibachrome tube. I don't have a roller thingy so will I have to constantly roll it?


Thanks
Dave

Yes, you will have to roll it by hand, the drum will work but it won't allow the developer to reach the anti halation layer, so you will have to make sure you do the stop bath and fix on a tray.

[John Kasaian]

Waldo,
Get a Unicolor, Beseler or Omega motorized base off ebay---they go for around $10-$15. Check out Graywolf Phillip's article on the LF Homepage by clicking on the blue banner at the top of this page. He soups four 4x5s in a Unicolor drum but you'll get an idea of how this works.

[Waldo]

Yes, you will have to roll it by hand, the drum will work but it won't allow the developer to reach the anti halation layer, so you will have to make sure you do the stop bath and fix on a tray.

Hmm, well that kind of defeats the purpose of using the drum for me. Oh well I'll just get trays and process that way anyway.

Thank you

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Hmm, well that kind of defeats the purpose of using the drum for me. Oh well I'll just get trays and process that way anyway.

Thank you

Yeah, but if you want a cheap alternative to tubes, you can go to any welding supply store and buy the tubes they use to store the welding leads. They probably wont be light tight and you will have to paint them black to make them so, but it works pretty well, it is what I have in reserve in case my Jobo craps out.

[shengja]

Drum scanning 8X10 film will cost between $100 and $200 per file, if you can find someone to do it.

You'll also end up with a 500-1000 MB file, which could be problematic to work with.

You might see a difference in prints bigger than maybe 20X24". But, then again you'd have to shoot with an 8X10 camera. Have you ever done this? It's not something to be undertaken lightly.

Figure in as well $5 - $20 per frame in film and processing costs (B&W or colour), the cost of film holders (you'll need more than a few for a day's shooting), and one has to ask – why bother?

If it's something you're already doing, and you understand the issues, then fine. But if not, the image quality advantages have to be weighed against the costs and practical issues.

____________________________________________________________________
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[Waldo]

Drum scanning 8X10 film will cost between $100 and $200 per file, if you can find someone to do it.

You'll also end up with a 500-1000 MB file, which could be problematic to work with.

You might see a difference in prints bigger than maybe 20X24". But, then again you'd have to shoot with an 8X10 camera. Have you ever done this? It's not something to be undertaken lightly.

Figure in as well $5 - $20 per frame in film and processing costs (B&W or colour), the cost of film holders (you'll need more than a few for a day's shooting), and one has to ask – why bother?

If it's something you're already doing, and you understand the issues, then fine. But if not, the image quality advantages have to be weighed against the costs and practical issues.

____________________________________________________________________
business card printing (http://www.squidoo.com/business_card_printing)

I'm not going to be scanning the film at that kind of quality just yet. I have a scanner that works just fine for my needs.

I plan to do all the developing myself. I'm prepared to do this.

[Waldo]

I was told that as long as I put the film in the tube and do a constant roll that I should be able to do just fine with the tube that I have.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

I was told that as long as I put the film in the tube and do a constant roll that I should be able to do just fine with the tube that I have.

I used to have a cibachrome tube, trust me when I tell you that the developer will not reach the antihaliton layer in the back of the film where it is in contact with the drum.

Give it a shot, it might work for you, it never worked for me and got a few ruined negatives before I saw the light... :)

[IanG]

Yeah, but if you want a cheap alternative to tubes, you can go to any welding supply store and buy the tubes they use to store the welding leads. They probably wont be light tight and you will have to paint them black to make them so, but it works pretty well, it is what I have in reserve in case my Jobo craps out.
J&C sold these welding rod tubes, as film tubes. They are very cheap new on Ebay, a fraction of the J&C price. They are light-tight, but watch out they come in various colours you need Black.

I much prefer dish processing 10x8 it's much easier, and quicker.

Ian

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

J&C sold these welding rod tubes, as film tubes. They are very cheap new on Ebay, a fraction of the J&C price. They are light-tight, but watch out they come in various colours you need Black.

I much prefer dish processing 10x8 it's much easier, and quicker.

Ian

Brubaker sells them for $70 I beleive....talk about a mark up, huh? Mine cost $11, they are black, but like I said, you can paint any of the colored ones black and it will work.

[sanking]

You might want to consider buying one of the old Beseler 16X20 print drums and a motor base. You can develop up to four 8X10 sheets at a time with this drum, if you get the spacers.

I actually prefer this to Jobo since it takes up so much less space, and works just as well in my experience.


Sandy

[John Kasaian]

I've souped HP-5+ in the Unicolor and they came out just fine :)

[Waldo]

I'm just going to tray process. I was hoping to be lazy and tube process, oh well.

[audioexcels]

I'm just going to tray process. I was hoping to be lazy and tube process, oh well.

What's wrong with Sandy's idea? Would be way cheap and spare you the trays...

[Ole Tjugen]

I used to have a cibachrome tube, trust me when I tell you that the developer will not reach the antihaliton layer in the back of the film where it is in contact with the drum.

So what?

Just wash off the antihalation layer afterwards! It's much easier doing the processing in a tube/drum followed by washing in a tray than doing everything in the tray!

A developed film with a partially removed antihalation layer is not "damaged" - it's just not washed enough.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

So what?

Just wash off the antihalation layer afterwards! It's much easier doing the processing in a tube/drum followed by washing in a tray than doing everything in the tray!

A developed film with a partially removed antihalation layer is not "damaged" - it's just not washed enough.

Did you actually read that the original poster wanted to do all three steps in the tube. IN addition some films are harder to get the antihalation back removed which can lead to uneven staining, I have some of those. But thank you for your expertise.... obviously you have done a lot fo film in cibachrome tubes like I have. :rolleyes:

[Ole Tjugen]

Yes Jorge, I have. In Cibachrome and JOBO print drums.

I use mostly FP4+. I do developer, stop and fixing in the drum, and washing in a tray. No stains - ever.

Incidentally I do chromes in a JOBO print drum too, with no problems at all so far.

[Ole Tjugen]

Read my post Jorge - i do do all three steps in the drum: Dev, stop and fix. And most of the washing too, I might add.

I don't use Tmax, partly because of the tenacious stain. :)

Read the posts you reply to, and cut down on the insults please.

[Jiri Vasina]

Some threads have a quick tendency to degenerate into flaming wars and insulting. It's funny to note that some posters are around this degeneration more often than others.

I have no experience with Cibachrome drums, but use Jobo print drums for 5×7/5×8 processing and I do all three steps (actually 4 - with presoak) in the drum on Unicolor roller base. The 5th step - washing - can also be done in the drum (tube), using the Ilford method (that is the label I know it under - agitation and shaking with water inside for a number inversions, then change the water) - but you use much more water and it's a good weight lifting doing it for a total of hundreds of inversions with more than a liter of water. So all the development steps can be done in Jobo print drums - but it's more practical to do the washing in trays...

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Some threads have a quick tendency to degenerate into flaming wars and insulting. It's funny to note that some posters are around this degeneration more often than others.

I have no experience with Cibachrome drums, but use Jobo print drums for 5×7/5×8 processing and I do all three steps (actually 4 - with presoak) in the drum on Unicolor roller base. The 5th step - washing - can also be done in the drum (tube), using the Ilford method (that is the label I know it under - agitation and shaking with water inside for a number inversions, then change the water) - but you use much more water and it's a good weight lifting doing it for a total of hundreds of inversions with more than a liter of water. So all the development steps can be done in Jobo print drums - but it's more practical to do the washing in trays...

The Jobo print drums are not as smooth as the cibachrome drums, at least the ones I had both in 8x10 and 16x20. The Jobo print drums have ridges, or at least my 3063 does, I do not know about the smaller ones, the Cibachrome drums are completely smooth. Since the original post was about cibachrome drums I posted my experience with them, it would have been nice if you had that experience as well.

[Jiri Vasina]

Yes, my Jobo drums (I have 2800 line) do have the ridges - and I was suspecting the Cibachrome do not - that might play a significant role.

[Leonard Metcalf]

develop, stop and fix in drum. Remove from Drum, and fix again in tray until clear. Wash in tray... That works for me with HP5.... I have been doing it that way for years... and the negs are fantastic.

[jenluc]

Get an 8x10 inch piece of fiberglass screen material. Place it between the drum and film. All the solutions can get to the back of the film. You need to wash the negative in a tray.