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Noeyedear
11-Apr-2008, 10:33
Any tips,
I have some readyload 5x4 T max 100 to process, I have an expert tank but no Jobo to connect to.
I would imagine its possible to hand roll, anyone doing this successfully? If so what problems have you encountered, is it best to use more than the minimum chemicals to help with temperature, is it easy to over agitate etc.

Kevin.

venchka
11-Apr-2008, 11:01
Kevin,

I hand rolled a Jobo 2551 once. Then I found a Uniroller motor base. The Jobo 3010 Expert works well with the Uniroller. I'm using 1 liter of D-76 1:1.

Ron Marshall
11-Apr-2008, 11:06
Many people are doing this. I have done it for three years now. I would not hand-roll for color but for b/w it works well.

I use the $25 Jobo roller base. I load the developer with the drum upright. It fills in about 20 seconds. I have tried with and withour a presoak, and not noticed any difference, but with TMX I do a presoak.

I spoke to a Jobo tech who recommended 50 RPM and reversing direction every 2.5 turns. I usually turn at about 40 RPM and reverse every two turns. Doesn't make much difference, the inportant thing is to be consistent.

I have tried HC-110, D76, XTOL, Pyrocat-HD, and Rodinal in the Jobo. All but HC-110 worked well. HC-110, my favourite for inversion processing, was too active. (Lower dilutions lead too large a volume) My overall favourite was XTOL.

aduncanson
11-Apr-2008, 11:16
I am using a Jobo and Beseler motor base for B&W processing and use something like 50% more than the recommended Jobo minimum amount of chemicals, or about 300ml in the 3006 5x7 drum. Jobo recommends 342ml max in the 3006. See: http://www.jobo.com/web/Expert-Drums.338.0.html

(Be sure to observe the capacity of the developer itself also.)

Jobo makes a set of rollers to place the drum on while rolling it manually, but my Beseler base cost only a little more used than the Jobo rollers do new. The Beseler reverses directions too quickly for the Jobo so I disable the reversing and swap ends of the drum to reverse every 15 seconds to a minute.

I have found it simple & fool proof. That is saying a lot for any form of sheet film processing.

Dave Moeller
11-Apr-2008, 12:25
The Beseler reverses directions too quickly for the Jobo so I disable the reversing...

Any hints on how to disable the reversing action of the base? (I'm electronically challenged, but willing to learn.)

Thanks!

venchka
11-Apr-2008, 12:33
I have two bases: the Uniroller & a Beseler.

The Uniroller reverses. The Beseler does not. The Beseler rotates considerably dater than the Uniroller.

After reading several posts about disabling the reversing of the Uniroller, I took a look at what the Jobo 3010 does on the Uniroller. My conclusion was that the 3010 tank reversed direction when the top cylinders reached the 5 or 7 o'clock position at the bottom of the cycle. This puts those cylinders low enough to get enough developer.

I haven't experienced any problems using 6 sheets of film and 1 liter of developer. If I ever have 8 sheets that require the same time I will do that and report back.

aduncanson
11-Apr-2008, 14:04
Any hints on how to disable the reversing action of the base? (I'm electronically challenged, but willing to learn.)

Thanks!

Oh it is terribly technical.

On my Beseler you must press the rocker switch labeled "Continuous - Reversing" toward "Continuous".

Dave Moeller
11-Apr-2008, 14:10
Oh, well...mine doesn't have the switch. Thanks anyway.

aduncanson
11-Apr-2008, 14:19
Just guessing, there is probably a micro-switch inside that senses the extent of the rotation of the drive wheel. If so, you could install a switch in series with the micro-switch, or if easily restoring the reversing function is not important I could imagine all sorts of quick ways to disable it.

Erik Larsen
11-Apr-2008, 14:30
Any hints on how to disable the reversing action of the base? (I'm electronically challenged, but willing to learn.)

Thanks!

Dave, I have disabled the reverse switch on I think a premier roller base, maybe it was a beseler, can't remember I don't have it any more. It was a simple plastic tab that would rotate with the shaft and hit a switch and reverse directions. All I did was unscrew the bolt that held the plastic tab in place. Wasn't difficult at all.
regards
Erik

Dave Moeller
12-Apr-2008, 04:25
Thanks for the ideas. I'll open it up and watch how it works...given what I see and the hints you've offered, I should be able to figure it out.

Emil Ems
14-Apr-2008, 07:27
Ron,

Just a short follow-up question:

Which dilution of Rodinal did you use, and which quantity of that diluted developer for 8 4x5 sheets or 2 8x10 sheets?

Ron Marshall
14-Apr-2008, 08:02
Ron,

Just a short follow-up question:

Which dilution of Rodinal did you use, and which quantity of that diluted developer for 8 4x5 sheets or 2 8x10 sheets?

I used 1:25, which worked nicely. 10ml of concentrate is required for 80 square inches of film (four 4x5 sheets).

For 8 sheets you need 20ml of concentrate. 25 x 20 ml = 500ml so for 1:25 you need 20ml of Rodinal and 500ml of water.

venchka
14-Apr-2008, 08:08
I used 1:25, which worked nicely. 10ml of concentrate is required for 80 square inches of film (four 4x5 sheets).

For 8 sheets you need 20ml of concentrate. 25 x 20 ml = 500ml so for 1:25 you need 20ml of Rodinal and 480ml of water.

Correct me if I'm wrong. Always a posibility where math & science & me is concerned.

I thought that 1:25 meant, in this case, 20ml Rodinal x 25 = 500ml water. Or 520ml total.

Isn't 20ml Rodinal + 480ml water = 1:24? Hardly an issue, 1:24 vs. 1:25. Just curious for the sake of accuracy.

venchka
14-Apr-2008, 08:16
In lay terms, I was right? :cool:

Ron Marshall
14-Apr-2008, 08:31
In lay terms, I was right? :cool:

Yes, you are correct, thanks for reminding me! The ratio is concentrate: water.

Geert
14-Apr-2008, 15:17
A pair of upside-down rollerskate make a perfect roller base. I bet all of you still have a pair in the basement somewhere.

But I moslty use a CPE II (besides a CPA IIplus that gets used very seldom). Of course the crown heads of the Pro tanks don't fit but I managed to atach magnets to the base.

G