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View Full Version : filling a gap in Rosco filter VC printing w/ Aristo W45



Claude Sapp
24-Mar-2008, 13:06
I use the Roscoe filters for contrast adjustment. I have Zone VI Aristo heads, W45 equivalent.

I need to fill a gap between the 389 and 3304 filters. The 389 prints about Grade 1 and the 3304 prints about Grade 2 1/2. Any ideas on what Rosco fills this gap?

Anyone used the R4415, R4430, R4460, and R4490 series of green filters for VC printing? I thought the R4460 or R4490 might fill my gap but thought I would ask before ordering these. (I can't find them to order anyway...)

Mark Woods
24-Mar-2008, 14:54
You can order on line at: http://www.mole.com/ There always Rosco too.

ic-racer
24-Mar-2008, 16:48
Green #4415 (Thats 15cc Green). Just a suggestion, I have not used that one as currently do split grade with just two filters. (In my system a grade 2, by chance, works out to equal exposures with my 2 filters http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10373&d=1203611237 ).

I would think that you could just use the 'CC' filters (calcolor) and make a complete set in green/blue or yellow/magenta, or fill in your missing values with the calcolor filters.

Nick_3536
24-Mar-2008, 21:16
There was an article in one of the photo magazines with a list of Roscoe numbers. I can't find the discussion.

B&H sells I think all or at least most of the filters.

Andrew O'Neill
24-Mar-2008, 22:33
I have a package of large Rosco filters. Out of all of them I only use the darkest green and blue and split print with them. Sure makes life easier especially with my bastardized 8x10 enlarger.

EdWorkman
25-Mar-2008, 16:59
As I have written previously, I use the "plus green series" of Roscoes, which come in "1/4" "1/2" and "1". I get high contrast without adding significant green, so I usually have a pile of 2-4 sheets above the diffuser in my 8x10 Beseler.
I originally got them from Calumet by mail, then got more at the Santa Barbara retail store
I can't tell you the numbers, but the names are quite clear for these. I occasionally need to boost contrast and I use the "minus green" series, usually on 1/4 or 1/2

Claude Sapp
26-Mar-2008, 09:10
Thanks for the responses so far, some good thoughts. As for purchasing Rosco filters, I usually buy from Adorama, Calumet, or B&H. My comment on not finding a place to buy was regarding the R44XX line of filters, but Mole might have them.

I print with the Plus series as well, 3304 Plus Green and 3315 Half Plus Green. I also use the Chroma Green 389 filter which is VERY green. There is just a huge gap between the 3304 Plus Green (Grade 2.5) and the 389 Chroma Green (Grade 1/2 to 1). I was looking for a filter to bridge this gap in grades for me.

As for stacking filters, I would not think that would work. I would not think it is additive in effect, I would think the first filter just passes the filtered light to the next filter which then has no more affect than the first filter, am I wrong? I tried this, and just found a change in printing times, not VC grades.

ic-racer
26-Mar-2008, 13:16
I print with the Plus series as well, 3304 Plus Green and 3315 Half Plus Green. I also use the Chroma Green 389 filter which is VERY green. There is just a huge gap between the 3304 Plus Green (Grade 2.5) and the 389 Chroma Green (Grade 1/2 to 1). I was looking for a filter to bridge this gap in grades for me.

Let's see:

3315 = 15cc Green
3304 = 30ccGreen
3316 = 75cc Green

My experience with the Chroma Green 389 is that it is prints with an approximate ISO contrast of 190, which is pretty low in contrast (Grade 00). So there IS going to be a significant gap between the 3304 and the 389 Chroma Green. Your 3316 (75CC green), or a 60CC or 90CC Calcolor green should fill in that gap.

In terms of stacking filters:

Zaka and Todd indicate that combining like filters give additive effects (not extra neutral density). (H.N. Todd and R.D. Zakia, Photographic Sensitometry: The Study of Tone Reproduction)

As an example. If we combine two #80 primary blue filters, the transmission for the blue peak (420) will go from 63% to 31.5%. The green part (520) will go from 15% to 7.5% (each part of the curve is reduced by one-half).

If you compare that with the effect of combination of one filter with a neutral density filter you will see the resulting filter will be different from above. The neutral density filter, by definition, will affect all the wavelengths the same. So, a 7.5% ND filter will also make the 15% green peak also go to 7.5% but it will make the 63% blue peak go to 55.5% rather than 31.5%.

Claude Sapp
26-Mar-2008, 14:30
I used BTZS WinPlotter to test the filters I have on Oriental FB VC, results follow:

389 ChromaGreen ISO 160
3304 Tough Plusgreen ISO 100
3315 Tough 1/2 Plusgreen ISO 90
Bare Zone VI/ Aristo W45 ISO 80
3308 Tough Minusgreen ISO 70
3313 Tough 1/2 Minusgreen ISO 70


Rosco has info on these filters, and others here: http://www.rosco.com/us/filters/roscolux.asp

I think I am going to try the CalColor 4460 and 4490 and see how these fill the gap between my 389 and 3304.

I will have to try the stacking trick again, that may be the simple solution.

Also isn't the 3314 7.5CC and not 75CC? If so, it should print with more contrast than the 3315, not less than the 3304.

ic-racer
26-Mar-2008, 16:10
Also isn't the 3314 7.5CC and not 75CC? If so, it should print with more contrast than the 3315, not less than the 3304.

You may have mis-typed but according to their web site the 3314 is like 75cc MAGENTA.

Thanks for sharing your BTZS test. I have copied your post with your color combinations for my future reference.

If you get those other filters, let us know how they turned out.

I ordered a (free) swatch book from Rosco, but it has yet to arrive. I was going to go through it to see which ones would make a good set.

BTW: My split grade setup uses a Chroma Green #389 and two layers of the Primary Blue #80. I went with those two colors because that was what was available at the local shop.

Andrew O'Neill
26-Mar-2008, 17:36
Howard Bond wrote an article in PT magazine a few years ago about the same problem you are having with spacing. He solved it with a light yellow filter which is always placed under the same light head that you have...I'm not sure if he replaced it with the V54 bulb... I could have a look for the magazine if you want...

Claude Sapp
26-Mar-2008, 18:01
Howard Bond wrote an article in PT magazine a few years ago about the same problem you are having with spacing. He solved it with a light yellow filter which is always placed under the same light head that you have...I'm not sure if he replaced it with the V54 bulb... I could have a look for the magazine if you want...

I have seen references to the article, but never seen the article. If you put your hands on it, I really would like to read it.

I am going to try stacking filters tonight to see if I can fill the gap.

Claude Sapp
27-Mar-2008, 00:16
With the help of the members, I answered my question. I can stack filters to fill the contrast gap I found using single filters.

I stacked Rosco 3304 and 3315 filters to reduce contrast below what a single 3304 would give, and fill the huge gap between the 389 and 3304.

ISO numbers and Rosco filter numbers follow:

160 #389
140 #3304 (x3)
120 #3304 (x2)
110 #3304 & #3315
90 #3304 (found a CC40Y prints similarly)
80 #3315
70 #3313 or #3308 (seems I have reached a max contrast here)

I am going to use the 3304/3315 combination as my standard since the actual ES is 1.05, smack in the middle of Grade 2 with the Aristo W45 bulb. Excellent!

Now I need to calculate a printing time chart...

Ginette
21-Nov-2009, 21:05
With the help of the members, I answered my question. I can stack filters to fill the contrast gap I found using single filters.

I stacked Rosco 3304 and 3315 filters to reduce contrast below what a single 3304 would give, and fill the huge gap between the 389 and 3304.

ISO numbers and Rosco filter numbers follow:

160 #389
140 #3304 (x3)
120 #3304 (x2)
110 #3304 & #3315
90 #3304 (found a CC40Y prints similarly)
80 #3315
70 #3313 or #3308 (seems I have reached a max contrast here)

I am going to use the 3304/3315 combination as my standard since the actual ES is 1.05, smack in the middle of Grade 2 with the Aristo W45 bulb. Excellent!

Now I need to calculate a printing time chart...

Sorry to bump an old topic but it is the closer I found about what I search for.

I have an old W45 Aristo grid and I wish to put a permanent correction filtration behind the 14x14 diffusion panel. Look the CC40Y is the more appropriate but I don't find it in 20x24 sheet. Do someone find this CC40Y somewhere?
Is the #3304 (CC30 Green) a good substitute ?
or the combinaison of #3304(CC30 Green) + 3315 (CC15 Green) as suggested in this topic?

I don't want to split grade but made a basic correction to use Ilford Multigrade filters as explained here http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006130201152306.pdf