Shanghai 100 in Xtol?

[jb7]

Hello, I've searched everywhere, and this doesn't seem to be a popular selection-
the only start point I've found is 1:2 for 13¾mins at 20ºC.

I'll have to test anyway, but I was wondering if anyone had experience of the combination, and could offer any further suggestions-

Many thanks-

joseph-

[Gene McCluney]

You haven't found much, because few people in the WEST have much experience with this rather hard-to-find Chinese film that is not officially exported, AFAIK. I have only seen this on ebay.

[jb7]

Thanks for the reply-
Will have to muddle on-

Its a very thin base- more like 120 film-
which is apparently prone to curling in the (recommended) hardening fix-

I did get it on ebay-
thought it might be worth a look-

joseph

[robert fallis]

I've never used Xtol on it , but have used Tetenal ultrafin, about 8mins in tubes with constant rolling , produces good results for me, but I don't use an exposure meter, just sunny 16, so my negatives may be a little dense.

bob

[robert fallis]

found this scan lurking on my hard drive may be of some use to you
bob

[jb7]

Thanks Bob,
appreciate that-

j

[Gene McCluney]

Shoot a scene with average brightness, and evenly distributed tones across the whole scene. In the dark cut your negative into strips. Put your Xtol in a tray and put all your strips into the developer at the same time. Do your regular tray processing routine, and set your timer for 14 minutes, and pull your first strip out at 6 minutes, then one at 8 minutes, 10 minutes, 12 minutes, and 14 minutes. As you pull them out, plop each one into a tray of acetic acid type stop bath. This will hold the strips until you get all of them developed. Transfer all to fix, after appropriate time, turn on the lights and look at the strips. Select the strip that has the best "tones" to you, and use that time for your future development starting point.

[jb7]

Thanks Gene-
That sounds like a far more economical method than the one I was going to use...

[jb7]

and luckily, where I am, we seldom have scenes with anything less than average brightness...

[buze]

Maybe it had changed recently (I have stocks) but Shanghai 100 in sheet is completely different from the Shanghai GP3 in 120. The sheets are fantastic, I shot several hundreds over the last year and they work very well; the base is not thin at all, and the sheet doesn't curl either. For all intents, it's FP4. You can shoot it at 400 too.

On the other hand, the 120 film is totaly unusable IMO. I shot some 'to try' and found crud in the emulsion, that and giving a film that is just totaly /impossible/ to get flat. I tried everything; it's not a film it's a spring. I even tried re-rolling in on the steel spool emulsion /out/ and let it it dry like that. Never worked. Even now after a year pressed with the other it's still trying to get out :D

[jb7]

Thanks buze-

This stuff I have is definitely thin-
it feels like 120 stock to me-
definitely not like any sheet film I've ever handled-

I had read reports about the 120 curl,
thankfully this stuff is flat- so far-
Still haven't done my test, btw...

joseph