View Full Version : Question
Hello I really need a help. I am thinking to sell my old 35 mm equipmant and buy 4x5 camera.
I just want to learn, how much would cost to make a starter kit and after start how much it cost for me to keep it up. Development, new films and prints?
I am student so it is kind of hard for me to start, but I really want to start.
Kerem
Dan Fromm
14-Mar-2008, 12:03
Read the FAQs on this board's parent site to educate yourself a little about gear.
Spend some time looking at close auctions on eBay to get an idea of prices.
Ron Marshall
14-Mar-2008, 12:36
A very simple starter kit: cheap camera, one lens, three or four filmholders, tripod, could be had used for perhaps $400.
Certain b/w films will cost about 50 cents per sheet if you develop it yourself, which you can do in a tray.
Try KEH Camera Brokers, Midwest Photo Exchange or Ebay for used equipment.
Thank you very much Mr. Marshall. I thought films would be more expensive. Yes I want to shoot in B&W. And I guess I have to develop myself because I am living in little city, I don't think any one does LF development. Thanks again
What Ron said. You could also watch FS threads on this board. The advantage is that most sellers here really know their stuff and will give you good, free advice.
Also, a used monorail camera in very decent condition can be had for much cheaper than a comparable field camera. It will have more movements and all of them will be independently controlled, and thus will be easier to learn. Less important in the beginning but still a nice feature, monorail cameras usually provide much longer extension than field cameras, which is handy for longer lenses and/or close-up work. But as a tradeoff for the price and utility, it will be much heavier and more cumbersome than a comparable field camera.
I would also strongly suggest a 210mm lens as a first lens. It is a rough equivalent to the 70mm lens on a 35mm camera and is good for both portraits and for general scenery. Coming from a 35mm, you will initially struggle with both brightness and upside-down orientation of the image on the ground glass, so I think you should stay away from cheaper f/8 versions and pick a larger (but still affordable) f/5.6 versions, as it tends to be bright enough.
You could use your 35mm as a lightmeter initially, but you can pick a good and yet cheapish light meter off the eBay for very little money if you are patient.
The cheapest way to develop your films is in trays, in the dark. You'll need four of those, as well as two or three graduating cylinders or beaks for measuring and mixing chemicals and you are set to start. If you like it and decide you want to continue, you can always buy up.
I think you'll like it, though. :)
Ron Marshall
14-Mar-2008, 13:02
Thank you very much Mr. Marshall. I thought films would be more expensive. Yes I want to shoot in B&W. And I guess I have to develop myself because I am living in little city, I don't think any one does LF development. Thanks again
The film I was thinking of is sold be Freestyle Photo, Arista.edu. It is a nominal 200 ISO fim, actually about 125, and is a good film to begin with:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=404&pid=1000002552
It is very easy to develop yourself, you only need developer and fix.
One essential piece of equipment I forgot is a light meter. You could use a 35mm camera. If not a cheap one is about $100 used.
Here is an example of what you can get for $225 from KEH, their bargain grade is fine to start with if you are on a budjet, and a 150mm is versatile and cheap:
http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/ProductDetail.aspx?groupsku=LF06009030128N&brandcategoryname=Large%20Format&Mode=&item=0&ActivateTOC2=&ID=58&BC=LF&BCC=7&CC=6&CCC=2&BCL=&GBC=&GCC=
As a side note, and from one beginner to another, I would leave those cheap films to the more experienced hands and start with either Kodak or Ilford. They have better quality control and much less chance for bad samples. As a beginner, you won't be able to tell whether it is your mistake or their fault and that can lead to a lot of frustration. These films typically cost about $1 per sheet and come in 25, 50 and 100-sheet packages.
Chemicals will typically cost you another $0.5 per sheet. Same rule, pick the big name and widely used developer. My suggestion is to pick one film and one developer and stick to it for a while. The most common and easiest to use would be D76 (powder) or HC110 (concentrate) from Kodak or ID11 from Ilford (identical to D76). As for film, pick either Tri-X (Kodak) or HP5+ (Ilford) - those are nice, flexible and relatively fast classic emulsions pretty tolerant of user errors.
You will find the whole process a bit frustrating at first, but it will turn very rewarding very quickly if you persist.
Dan Fromm
14-Mar-2008, 14:12
Big help, thanksThe lord helps those who help themselves. More seriously, why should I retype what's already been written? LF isn't for the lazy.
Now go read. You'll find better answers in the FAQs and by reading old posts than you will in this thread alone.
Ole Tjugen
14-Mar-2008, 15:13
LF isn't for the lazy. ...
Sometimes I disagree with this.
LF is for the lazy; those who want to make one exposure, and only one, and get it right the first time.
Of course most of the time I agree completely...
The lord helps those who help themselves. More seriously, why should I retype what's already been written? LF isn't for the lazy.
Now go read. You'll find better answers in the FAQs and by reading old posts than you will in this thread alone.
I am sorry to bother you. I didn't want to be mean. My english is not too good, so There are pages information and really hard to find. I ask really basic question. If you don't want to answer, why did you bother and write something. Ans if you bother to write something why you didn't give an answer to my question or least link or web-site. But thanks anyway, there are people who cares others and help them for start. I really don't need judge (which you said lazy) I only need little help.
What Ron said. You could also watch FS threads on this board. The advantage is that most sellers here really know their stuff and will give you good, free advice.
Also, a used monorail camera in very decent condition can be had for much cheaper than a comparable field camera. It will have more movements and all of them will be independently controlled, and thus will be easier to learn. Less important in the beginning but still a nice feature, monorail cameras usually provide much longer extension than field cameras, which is handy for longer lenses and/or close-up work. But as a tradeoff for the price and utility, it will be much heavier and more cumbersome than a comparable field camera.
I would also strongly suggest a 210mm lens as a first lens. It is a rough equivalent to the 70mm lens on a 35mm camera and is good for both portraits and for general scenery. Coming from a 35mm, you will initially struggle with both brightness and upside-down orientation of the image on the ground glass, so I think you should stay away from cheaper f/8 versions and pick a larger (but still affordable) f/5.6 versions, as it tends to be bright enough.
You could use your 35mm as a lightmeter initially, but you can pick a good and yet cheapish light meter off the eBay for very little money if you are patient.
The cheapest way to develop your films is in trays, in the dark. You'll need four of those, as well as two or three graduating cylinders or beaks for measuring and mixing chemicals and you are set to start. If you like it and decide you want to continue, you can always buy up.
I think you'll like it, though. :)
Thank you I am really excited. I hope it will worth it.
The film I was thinking of is sold be Freestyle Photo, Arista.edu. It is a nominal 200 ISO fim, actually about 125, and is a good film to begin with:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=404&pid=1000002552
It is very easy to develop yourself, you only need developer and fix.
One essential piece of equipment I forgot is a light meter. You could use a 35mm camera. If not a cheap one is about $100 used.
Here is an example of what you can get for $225 from KEH, their bargain grade is fine to start with if you are on a budjet, and a 150mm is versatile and cheap:
http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/ProductDetail.aspx?groupsku=LF06009030128N&brandcategoryname=Large%20Format&Mode=&item=0&ActivateTOC2=&ID=58&BC=LF&BCC=7&CC=6&CCC=2&BCL=&GBC=&GCC=
Thanks a lot again.
Do you think I can mesure the light with other digital camera?
The lord helps those who help themselves. More seriously, why should I retype what's already been written? LF isn't for the lazy.
Now go read. You'll find better answers in the FAQs and by reading old posts than you will in this thread alone.
Nothing wrong with reading, but typing is not that hard either, QED.
God and faith aside, the reward of helping someone by virtue of sharing knowledge is, IMHO, well worth the extra effort needed to type it up. Or to put it in terms to which self-centered among us could better relate: helping one person makes both of us feel good in the end. Except for those who can only feel good when they make someone else feel bad, of course, but this is not aimed at them anyway. ;)
Mark Woods
14-Mar-2008, 19:13
Go to the "So I got this big camera" thread. He just bought a Calumet and got a great deal for a starter package with two lenses. It's a good thread.
Go to the "So I got this big camera" thread. He just bought a Calumet and got a great deal for a starter package with two lenses. It's a good thread.
Yes I read it, I guess I can't find a deal like that. I will look at it though. I hope I can buy everything together like him.
Ron Marshall
14-Mar-2008, 20:40
Thanks a lot again.
Do you think I can mesure the light with other digital camera?
You can use any kind of camera to meter a scene as long as it gives you a reading of the aperture and shutter speed, which you can then modify.
For LF a spotmeter is often helpful but not mandatory. With a spotmeter one can have a better idea of where the tonal values will fall in the print.
Good luck!
Mark Woods
14-Mar-2008, 22:01
The other thread is a great beginning. If you use digital camera as a meter, I believe the #1 person who oversees this forum suggests that the camera be set on matrix metering.
The other thread is a great beginning. If you use digital camera as a meter, I believe the #1 person who oversees this forum suggests that the camera be set on matrix metering.
Thank you Mr. Woods for everything. I guess I use my digital camera on Matrix metering system. So I guess I will use my digital camera for mesure to light when I use 4x5 (hopefully I will have one day :) )
Nick_3536
14-Mar-2008, 22:20
Cambridge,Ontario?
Freestyle is in the US. You'll face shipping. Freestyle is well worth it but if you're only ordering one box of film it's not. I'd see if anybody else you know would like to combine an order.
How cheap a kit is depends on your patience and luck. You can often get something like a Calumet CC400 and a lens for less then $200. With luck that'll even include some film holders. OTOH you can pay quite a bit more.
Cambridge,Ontario?
Freestyle is in the US. You'll face shipping. Freestyle is well worth it but if you're only ordering one box of film it's not. I'd see if anybody else you know would like to combine an order.
How cheap a kit is depends on your patience and luck. You can often get something like a Calumet CC400 and a lens for less then $200. With luck that'll even include some film holders. OTOH you can pay quite a bit more.
Around 200 dollar would be great I guess, I would be very happy if you see something that price and let me know.
John Kasaian
14-Mar-2008, 23:32
Since you are a student, look for a photography course that will get you started in large format. If none are available, I'll second what Dan Fromm suggested----read and learn as much as you can before spending your hard earned money. Steve Simmons "Using The View Camera" is a very good resource as are the articles you can access by clicking on the LF Homepage on the blue banner at the top of this page.
There are plenty of good economical cameras out there to base your kit on. As others mentioned. you can process film in trays and 'bargain' film like Freestyle Arista is quite good. As in most undertakings, it is too easy to become a "gearhead." "X" camera or "Y" lens won't translate into good photographs--your vision is the critical piece of gear!
Jazz great John Coltrane said "You can play a shoe lace if you're sincere."
That has been proven tme and time again. Today's "beginner" equipment was often yesterdays "pro" gear and some very fine photographers used this same gear to make incredibly powerful and beautiful visual statements. The only difference between us and them, aside from knowing how to use the stuff, is knowing how to see the vision as they saw it. You might find limitations imposed by LF a creative asset or possibly too restrictive, depending on your vision. That is why reading about LF in order to get a better understanding of what and how you'll be making photographs is so important. FIlm holders, mechanical shutters, developing sheet film and the sheer bulk of the equipment you'll be using makes it "different" enough from 35mm, digital and medium format to warrant more than just a few personal opinions you'll likely get on the internet.
But back to your question!
IMHO the biggest bang for your learning buck is an old metal monorail like a Calumet 400 or Graphic View. Any tripod that will accomodate a substantial medium format camera will likely work with one of these cameras, so if you're already into medium fomat thats one less piece of gear to buy. Make sure the bellows are light tight and everything locks down so there is no shimmy and shake. Get three film holders--try and get the seller to include them with the camera to "sweeten" the deal. Get the plastic ones if possible (4x5) as there is less to go wrong. If they look abused, they likely were so if you're buying on ebay try to get nice looking ones. Liscos are plenty good. So are the older Riteways
You'll need a lens and you'll probably want one in a shutter. There are plenty of inexpensive used Schnieder, Nikkor and Rodenstock 210mms out there---expect them to need a cla (clean lube adjust) service. While they might not need to be serviced it is far better to be mentally and financially prepared. If you need something even cheaper look for Wollensaks, Ektars and Ilex---just make certain that they aren't press lenses designed for Speed Graphics, which likely won't have an image circle large enough to support tilts and swings (which weren't neccesary with handheld press cameras) Specific data for many of these lenses are available via the large format homepage (so, as Dan Fromm would say---read!)
A set of trays for developing, graduates for mixing chemicals, some jugs for storing stock solutions, a timer, light meter, thermometer, a box of film, focusing cloth or black sweatshirt, loupe or linen tester, cable release and----hey, you're there!
You've got a very impressive website, btw!
Good Luck!
Turner Reich
15-Mar-2008, 00:04
Get a $100.00 4x5 camera on eBay, anyone will do but a monorail that no one is bidding on will be fine. Get a couple of film holders, film, loupe, focus cloth, cable release for the lens you will also have to buy, probably a 210mm lens, buy a back pack or small suit case to put it in. You will need a tripod also. Set it in your apt. or house and take some test shots.
Get a $100.00 4x5 camera on eBay, anyone will do but a monorail that no one is bidding on will be fine. Get a couple of film holders, film, loupe, focus cloth, cable release for the lens you will also have to buy, probably a 210mm lens, buy a back pack or small suit case to put it in. You will need a tripod also. Set it in your apt. or house and take some test shots.
Thank you very much for your help. Everyone thinks 210 mm is good idea, I guess I will go for it.
Since you are a student, look for a photography course that will get you started in large format. If none are available, I'll second what Dan Fromm suggested----read and learn as much as you can before spending your hard earned money. Steve Simmons "Using The View Camera" is a very good resource as are the articles you can access by clicking on the LF Homepage on the blue banner at the top of this page.
There are plenty of good economical cameras out there to base your kit on. As others mentioned. you can process film in trays and 'bargain' film like Freestyle Arista is quite good. As in most undertakings, it is too easy to become a "gearhead." "X" camera or "Y" lens won't translate into good photographs--your vision is the critical piece of gear!
Jazz great John Coltrane said "You can play a shoe lace if you're sincere."
That has been proven tme and time again. Today's "beginner" equipment was often yesterdays "pro" gear and some very fine photographers used this same gear to make incredibly powerful and beautiful visual statements. The only difference between us and them, aside from knowing how to use the stuff, is knowing how to see the vision as they saw it. You might find limitations imposed by LF a creative asset or possibly too restrictive, depending on your vision. That is why reading about LF in order to get a better understanding of what and how you'll be making photographs is so important. FIlm holders, mechanical shutters, developing sheet film and the sheer bulk of the equipment you'll be using makes it "different" enough from 35mm, digital and medium format to warrant more than just a few personal opinions you'll likely get on the internet.
But back to your question!
IMHO the biggest bang for your learning buck is an old metal monorail like a Calumet 400 or Graphic View. Any tripod that will accomodate a substantial medium format camera will likely work with one of these cameras, so if you're already into medium fomat thats one less piece of gear to buy. Make sure the bellows are light tight and everything locks down so there is no shimmy and shake. Get three film holders--try and get the seller to include them with the camera to "sweeten" the deal. Get the plastic ones if possible (4x5) as there is less to go wrong. If they look abused, they likely were so if you're buying on ebay try to get nice looking ones. Liscos are plenty good. So are the older Riteways
You'll need a lens and you'll probably want one in a shutter. There are plenty of inexpensive used Schnieder, Nikkor and Rodenstock 210mms out there---expect them to need a cla (clean lube adjust) service. While they might not need to be serviced it is far better to be mentally and financially prepared. If you need something even cheaper look for Wollensaks, Ektars and Ilex---just make certain that they aren't press lenses designed for Speed Graphics, which likely won't have an image circle large enough to support tilts and swings (which weren't neccesary with handheld press cameras) Specific data for many of these lenses are available via the large format homepage (so, as Dan Fromm would say---read!)
A set of trays for developing, graduates for mixing chemicals, some jugs for storing stock solutions, a timer, light meter, thermometer, a box of film, focusing cloth or black sweatshirt, loupe or linen tester, cable release and----hey, you're there!
You've got a very impressive website, btw!
Good Luck!
Thank you very much sir for this answer. I am trying to read much as possible but my english is not to great and when people write about the things which I have no idea, it became a hard for me. Many articles explain pages about lenses but it is really not easy for me to understand. All system is different than 35mm and I am little confused. For example you said "You'll need a lens and you'll probably want one in a shutter", is that means I need a lens with shutter on it. Which works with cable release or something like that right? I hope I understand right. does the cheap lenses have this option? Thank you for your help. By the way I love Jazz, Miles Davis. :) Blessings
Dan Fromm
15-Mar-2008, 05:24
The lord helps those who help themselves. More seriously, why should I retype what's already been written? LF isn't for the lazy.
Now go read. You'll find better answers in the FAQs and by reading old posts than you will in this thread alone.
I am sorry to bother you. I didn't want to be mean. My english is not too good, so There are pages information and really hard to find. I ask really basic question. If you don't want to answer, why did you bother and write something. Ans if you bother to write something why you didn't give an answer to my question or least link or web-site. But thanks anyway, there are people who cares others and help them for start. I really don't need judge (which you said lazy) I only need little help.Kerem, I've been to your site. Your english is good enough. If you can understand the responses you've got in this thread, you can understand what's in this site's FAQs and in Steve Simmons' book.
Your question is not new, its been asked many times. Use this forum's search function to find answers to it that have already been typed.
I gather that you don't want to make a mistake and waste money when you start out in LF. Every beginner has this concern. Every beginner finds, usually within a year, that the kit he bought after much research and thought isn't right for him. Go make your mistakes and learn from them and don't look back. Mistakes aren't very expensive because gear bought used can usually be resold for nearly, sometimes more than, what it cost.
Good luck, have fun, don't be so sensitive,
John Kasaian
15-Mar-2008, 09:19
Unless you want to use a barrel lens and use a lens cap (sometimes referred to as a "hat") you'll be using a shutter which will be tripped or fired with a cable release. Modern lenses will most often be mounted in a copal , compur, seiko or prontor shutter. Older lenses may come in Wollensak (betax, alphax, rapax) or Ilex (acme, universal) and there are a few others you may encounter. Some are "single action" requiring cocking the shutter each time like on old time revolvers, or "double action" also refered to as "press" shutters which cock and fire when the shutter release is depressed.
It sounds more complicated than it really is :)
When you start shopping for gear, post your questions here regarding makes and models and focal lengths and there will more than enough people willing to give you advice.
Once again Steve Simmons' book is a great resource. Curl up with a copy! It is written in very basic english and is as inspirational (with photos) as it is informational.
Kerem, I've been to your site. Your english is good enough. If you can understand the responses you've got in this thread, you can understand what's in this site's FAQs and in Steve Simmons' book.
Your question is not new, its been asked many times. Use this forum's search function to find answers to it that have already been typed.
I gather that you don't want to make a mistake and waste money when you start out in LF. Every beginner has this concern. Every beginner finds, usually within a year, that the kit he bought after much research and thought isn't right for him. Go make your mistakes and learn from them and don't look back. Mistakes aren't very expensive because gear bought used can usually be resold for nearly, sometimes more than, what it cost.
Good luck, have fun, don't be so sensitive,
Thank you, But I guess I am not the sensitive one. I only ask question, "You make me "lazy", "sensitive" and you have wonderful idea about my english because you check my web site. But I didn't write the things in my web site, my friend did it.
You could give me a link. "Hey Kerem, this question already ask a lot, here is the link". I don't know why it is that hard. You already write my 3 letter and none of them has any info that helps me but judge. Thanks Fromm I really got my help, I really don't need more of your judges anymore.
I find this forum 5-6 days ago, and when I find I became member and think "oh somebody will give me a feedback" (which I already look at those kit cameras web sites or try to understand other web sites, ready Ansel Adams stuff) I was so excited and ask "hey help me, I need help, I have no idea"
You told me "LF Cameras not for lazy people". "WHAT"
Now I am sensitive and have a great english because you think so.
I guess when you are learning more and more, you are losing your beginner heart.
Unless you want to use a barrel lens and use a lens cap (sometimes referred to as a "hat") you'll be using a shutter which will be tripped or fired with a cable release. Modern lenses will most often be mounted in a copal , compur, seiko or prontor shutter. Older lenses may come in Wollensak (betax, alphax, rapax) or Ilex (acme, universal) and there are a few others you may encounter. Some are "single action" requiring cocking the shutter each time like on old time revolvers, or "double action" also refered to as "press" shutters which cock and fire when the shutter release is depressed.
It sounds more complicated than it really is :)
When you start shopping for gear, post your questions here regarding makes and models and focal lengths and there will more than enough people willing to give you advice.
Once again Steve Simmons' book is a great resource. Curl up with a copy! It is written in very basic english and is as inspirational (with photos) as it is informational.
Thank you, I guess I need that book :) I only know those shutters with release in lens. I have no idea about others.
big_ben_blue
15-Mar-2008, 10:43
Check with Rob Skeoch at www.bigcameraworkshops.com for film. He's a canadian source for large format related things, and maybe he knows someone who has a cheap used kit for sale (it wouldn't hurt to ask).
Other potential sources for a camera might be local commercial photographers and camera shops/labs. Even if they don't have one for sale, they might know someone who has.
What photography do you intent to pursue the most? Portraits, landscapes, studio work, location,... ? A monorail camera is great for the studio, but may not fit your comfort level for outdoor work. A Graflex might not suit your needs if you want to dwelve into portaiture or studio still lifes. Personally, if it was me starting out, I would look for a 4x5 field camera; something like a Tachihara or similar. Used ones show up regularely. They will be a bit more expensive than the CC400, but if you decide that large format isn't for you in the end, at least you can resell it. And don't disregard some of the classic cameras either - a decent Kodak 2D, Agfa/Ansco or Korona (check for good bellows!!!) can still be a good workhorse on a budget.
For lenses, the same criteria as before apply - what do you intent to shoot? For landscapes, a 90mm might be a good start; for portaiture and long focus work, the 210mm might be the ticket to joy; or why not start with a 135mm or 150mm lens as a general application lens (good for most anything from landscapes to portraits, and usually fairly inexpensive).
The Steve Simmons book would a good resource to start, even BEFORE you buy anything (the chapters on equipment alone could save you from expensive mistakes). It used to be a standard textbook for many college courses BTW.
Good luck
Check with Rob Skeoch at www.bigcameraworkshops.com for film. He's a canadian source for large format related things, and maybe he knows someone who has a cheap used kit for sale (it wouldn't hurt to ask).
Other potential sources for a camera might be local commercial photographers and camera shops/labs. Even if they don't have one for sale, they might know someone who has.
What photography do you intent to pursue the most? Portraits, landscapes, studio work, location,... ? A monorail camera is great for the studio, but may not fit your comfort level for outdoor work. A Graflex might not suit your needs if you want to dwelve into portaiture or studio still lifes. Personally, if it was me starting out, I would look for a 4x5 field camera; something like a Tachihara or similar. Used ones show up regularely. They will be a bit more expensive than the CC400, but if you decide that large format isn't for you in the end, at least you can resell it. And don't disregard some of the classic cameras either - a decent Kodak 2D, Agfa/Ansco or Korona (check for good bellows!!!) can still be a good workhorse on a budget.
For lenses, the same criteria as before apply - what do you intent to shoot? For landscapes, a 90mm might be a good start; for portaiture and long focus work, the 210mm might be the ticket to joy; or why not start with a 135mm or 150mm lens as a general application lens (good for most anything from landscapes to portraits, and usually fairly inexpensive).
The Steve Simmons book would a good resource to start, even BEFORE you buy anything (the chapters on equipment alone could save you from expensive mistakes). It used to be a standard textbook for many college courses BTW.
Good luck
Thanks for answering me, I guess I want to take more landscape pictures.
By the way I actually call Rob Skeoch and ask him some questions. He is really nice to me and invite me his LF Photography meeting. I am really excited about it. Yeah I better ask his, if he knows good condition cheap camera.
Thanks again
Jorge Gasteazoro
15-Mar-2008, 11:47
The lord helps those who help themselves. More seriously, why should I retype what's already been written? LF isn't for the lazy.
Now go read. You'll find better answers in the FAQs and by reading old posts than you will in this thread alone.
Absolutely, but then it never fails that there are some here with little knowledge who think their half assed answers are helpful. I agree with you, all the answers are in the home page, reading is not a sin.. :)
Jiri Vasina
15-Mar-2008, 11:48
The words about making mistakes by buying your first camera are very true. You are stepping in a totally different world, everyone already in this world has a bit different habits and intentions, so his/her advice will be only partially valid for you. So I'd second about buying any cheap camera you can lay hands on. (really, it only has to be lighttight, lock down well in all positions). After some shooting and using it, you'll find out what you need, what you want. And only then you'll buy your real camera. Camera to enjoy, camera to like, camera to show of,... or whatever.
As for lens, I think a 135mm one is great (or a 150mm). This is the focal length I return to regularly, the one I like most. But any focal length you choose, stay with it for some time (at least 100 shots, possibly more). You'll learn a lot this way. Also, that having a single lens is not always a hindrance. Then you'll also know which lens you need as the second, if a longer one, or if a shorter one.
Film - Arista.Edu is a good film, really cheap. It's rebadged Fomapan film, and Fomapan 100 is my main film to shoot. I'd really suggest using this one, mainly because of the relative cheapness. (or buy a short dated film in larger amount, store it in the fridge and use that).
You'll make a lot of mistakes, and when you think you have already made all of them, you'll make some surprising new ones. I think all of us did and do, at least I still do. Don't let the mistakes set you back.
The words about making mistakes by buying your first camera are very true. You are stepping in a totally different world, everyone already in this world has a bit different habits and intentions, so his/her advice will be only partially valid for you. So I'd second about buying any cheap camera you can lay hands on. (really, it only has to be lighttight, lock down well in all positions). After some shooting and using it, you'll find out what you need, what you want. And only then you'll buy your real camera. Camera to enjoy, camera to like, camera to show of,... or whatever.
As for lens, I think a 135mm one is great (or a 150mm). This is the focal length I return to regularly, the one I like most. But any focal length you choose, stay with it for some time (at least 100 shots, possibly more). You'll learn a lot this way. Also, that having a single lens is not always a hindrance. Then you'll also know which lens you need as the second, if a longer one, or if a shorter one.
Film - Arista.Edu is a good film, really cheap. It's rebadged Fomapan film, and Fomapan 100 is my main film to shoot. I'd really suggest using this one, mainly because of the relative cheapness. (or buy a short dated film in larger amount, store it in the fridge and use that).
You'll make a lot of mistakes, and when you think you have already made all of them, you'll make some surprising new ones. I think all of us did and do, at least I still do. Don't let the mistakes set you back.
Thanks for your encourage me. I check your web site, it is just outstanding, I totally loved it. Did you make those pictures with LF camera
Jiri Vasina
15-Mar-2008, 12:48
Kerem, thanks a lot for those kind words. Most of the pictures there are with MF cameras (Pentax 67 and Fuji 6x9 rangefinders), because my scanner does scan only a 6cm strip of film, not LF sheets. I did stitch some of them, but stopped doing so (to much PITA). Now I keep them until I buy a proper scanner (I'm saving for Epson V700) - and I have almost 200 sheets to scan :) .
Kerem, thanks a lot for those kind words. Most of the pictures there are with MF cameras (Pentax 67 and Fuji 6x9 rangefinders), because my scanner does scan only a 6cm strip of film, not LF sheets. I did stitch some of them, but stopped doing so (to much PITA). Now I keep them until I buy a proper scanner (I'm saving for Epson V700) - and I have almost 200 sheets to scan :) .
My friend has Pentax 6x7, maybe I need to use his camera. But I guess not much about camera, more about who use the camera
karem,
if you don't mind using a lf camera like a 35mm ( without perspective control )
you can probably pick up a speed or crown graphic and grafmatic back for not too
much money. they were newspaper cameras and last forever.
the speed graphic has an advantage because it has a shutter inside the camera
so you can use barrel lenses ( without shutters ), enlarger lenses, or anything else
you can think of as long as it transmits an image.
grafmatic backs are a film magazine that can hold 6 sheets of film
( like 3 film holders ). places like equinoxphotographic(.org) have good / affordable lenses
and the folks who run it are very nice too. i bought a speed graphic for my first lf
camera, and still use it all the time.
good luck sorthing through all the information.
john
karem,
if you don't mind using a lf camera like a 35mm ( without perspective control )
you can probably pick up a speed or crown graphic and grafmatic back for not too
much money. they were newspaper cameras and last forever.
the speed graphic has an advantage because it has a shutter inside the camera
so you can use barrel lenses ( without shutters ), enlarger lenses, or anything else
you can think of as long as it transmits an image.
grafmatic backs are a film magazine that can hold 6 sheets of film
( like 3 film holders ). places like equinoxphotographic(.org) have good / affordable lenses
and the folks who run it are very nice too. i bought a speed graphic for my first lf
camera, and still use it all the time.
good luck sorthing through all the information.
john
Thanks a lot, I hope it will be not too hard. I guess first I need to see some equipmant (camera and lenses) so least I will have idea about it. Now I have no idea about lenses without shutter. :)
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.