Agfapan apx 100 developer

[langsmer]

Can anyone recommend a somewhat inexpensive developer and fixer to use with Agfapan apx 100, asa 100 4x5 sheet film? How long should I leave the negatives in the solutions? I don't have very much experience developing my own film, and I would like to start doing it myself. Thanks for your patience with a noob!

-Luke

[vinny]

digitaltruth.com
massive development chart

[langsmer]

Yep, someone pointed that out to me on photo.net a few minutes ago.

It is somewhat helpful, but damn, I dont know what all the numbers and such mean. For instance. Under this page...

http://www.digitaltruth.com/chart/search_text.php?Film=APX%20100

For the Aculux 2 I'm guessing 1+9 under dilution means 1 part developer, 9 parts water. What does the 8 under 35mm mean, or the 10.5 under 120?

Sorry for being a bit slow on the uptake. Its pretty hard to get any film photo information where I live. When I take my Graflex into the local shops, they ask why I don't just get a digital. Thanks!

[Colin Graham]

Different times for different formats. 8 min for 35mm, 10 1/2 minutes for 120. APX 100 in rodinal 1:50 is hard to beat.

But please share with the class where you got the APX sheet film?

[langsmer]

A fellow sold me his graflex crown, a couple lenses, a grafamatic back, a few other film holders, and five boxes of film, two of them were nos APX. They have been kept in the freezer since they were new, so I'm guessing they are ok.

[Colin Graham]

Ah, well. I'd hoped you were sitting on 50 boxes you couldn't get rid of. Welcome to the forum anyway. :-)

[Glenn Thoreson]

A lot of things will influence your developing time with this or any film. Exposure accuracy, water quality, agitation method, are some. I develop 4X5 APX 100 in D-76 at 1:1 dilution. I use a Unicolor drum, so agitation is constant. I get 8 minutes at ASA 100 and 68° F. We have a lot of minerals in our water. The times recommended on the massive chart are much too long for my situation. Your film is no longer available. It is a really good film, so, to conserve it, you may want to take a couple of shots of something evenly colored and with a pattern, such as a brick wall. Then, cut the film into three pieces before developing. Develop one piece at a time, starting with what your judgement tells you should be the best guess for a starting point. If the first one is too contrasty and dense, try the next one at 20% less time, etc. If it's too thin, increase, etc. You want your highlights (dark parts of the neg) to be translucent enough that you can just see the print on a well lit page through them. It's not the most scientific way to do it, but it will get you there and it won't confuse you. Good luck, and welcome to the large format community.