jhorvat
20-Feb-2008, 03:26
After using Cambo SC for a year, mainly out in the bush, I decided to get something lighter and more convenient to carry around. After a lot of deliberation, I got a new Shen Hao TZ45-IIA ( http://www.shen-hao.com/E45.html ). There is no much information on the web on this model, so here we go. I would also like to hear your opinion regarding my concerns about rigidity of the front standard on this model-see below-is it likely to cause me problems in practical situations?...
TZ45 is a new model, lighter than HZX45, with more bellows extension, better spring/lever locking mechanism for the back, and with aluminium metal parts. As opposed to TZ45-IIB, it is meant to be used with longer focal lengths. Minimum bellows extension is 110mm (but this can go to about 50mm with a bit of playing with the movements etc.), which suits my lens range (127-305mm). Maximum extension goes to 360mm (420mm, playing with the movements).
When I first saw it, I said WOW! It felt like a nicely made tool, both visually and by touch. I could not take my hands of it! Woodwork is of very high quality and metalwork is not far behind. The weight is not quite as advertised, 2.030 kg (not 1.9kg), but it feels very lightweight. I will be definitely taking this one bushwalking. The size is as per specs, with addition of 2cm on each side thanks to protruding knobs.
Both grafmatics (1268 and an older model without cat. number), as well as Riteway film holders, fit well on the back. They can be slid under ground glass or attached by graflok clips. Focusing screen is quite good, comparable to Satin Snow I have on Cambo and slightly better than the original Cambo screen.
I was playing with my new toy last three evenings. While if feels rather good handling it, it doesn't feel as rigid as Cambo. The rear standard is attached to the body quite firmly, however front standard is attached to focusing rack (wood), which slides in wooden groove on camera body. This seems to be the main reason for front standard moving (tilting) about 2-3 mm when pressed with finger on the top. I have to say, the standard seems to come to the same position each time when I release it, so it does not seem to affect focusing accuracy.
I wonder if this is normal for wood cameras? I am concerned about using it in windy condition, when front standard may move upon exposure. It is the bellows that pull it back to its original position and in wind the bellows will make it move. Has anyone experienced any problems in this respect? But then, I guess, one usually waits for wind to stop before releasing the shutter....
I was thinking to use a plastic spring loaded clamp to fasten the focusing rack to the body, which would make it rather rigid, even making a lock through the bottom of the camera . (the focusing lock that comes with camera does not help much here because it immobilises the gear rod, not focusing rack). However, I wonder if this is really necessary and the slight wobblyness has no real effect on sharpness due to the standard always coming to the same position when no force is applied to it? What is your experience with wooden cameras?
Joseph
P.S.
I just noticed there is a slight light leak at the bottom of the lensboard that came with the camera. The lensboard is Linhof Technika-style, with 2-3 mm long slots cut in the middle of the bottom and top edges of the lensboard. For some reason, the lens opening on the front standard of the camera is a bit too large, allowing a slight leak of light through the bottom slot of the lensboard. This is difficult to spot and should be easy fix: a bit of black silicone to fill in the slot. It may be also good to add silicone or foam all around the lens opening on front standard, to make those light seals of the lensboard actually do their job. Shen Hao uses velvet seal at the front surface of the lensboard seat as the light seal- apparently,no one thought of those slots on Technika lensboards.
TZ45 is a new model, lighter than HZX45, with more bellows extension, better spring/lever locking mechanism for the back, and with aluminium metal parts. As opposed to TZ45-IIB, it is meant to be used with longer focal lengths. Minimum bellows extension is 110mm (but this can go to about 50mm with a bit of playing with the movements etc.), which suits my lens range (127-305mm). Maximum extension goes to 360mm (420mm, playing with the movements).
When I first saw it, I said WOW! It felt like a nicely made tool, both visually and by touch. I could not take my hands of it! Woodwork is of very high quality and metalwork is not far behind. The weight is not quite as advertised, 2.030 kg (not 1.9kg), but it feels very lightweight. I will be definitely taking this one bushwalking. The size is as per specs, with addition of 2cm on each side thanks to protruding knobs.
Both grafmatics (1268 and an older model without cat. number), as well as Riteway film holders, fit well on the back. They can be slid under ground glass or attached by graflok clips. Focusing screen is quite good, comparable to Satin Snow I have on Cambo and slightly better than the original Cambo screen.
I was playing with my new toy last three evenings. While if feels rather good handling it, it doesn't feel as rigid as Cambo. The rear standard is attached to the body quite firmly, however front standard is attached to focusing rack (wood), which slides in wooden groove on camera body. This seems to be the main reason for front standard moving (tilting) about 2-3 mm when pressed with finger on the top. I have to say, the standard seems to come to the same position each time when I release it, so it does not seem to affect focusing accuracy.
I wonder if this is normal for wood cameras? I am concerned about using it in windy condition, when front standard may move upon exposure. It is the bellows that pull it back to its original position and in wind the bellows will make it move. Has anyone experienced any problems in this respect? But then, I guess, one usually waits for wind to stop before releasing the shutter....
I was thinking to use a plastic spring loaded clamp to fasten the focusing rack to the body, which would make it rather rigid, even making a lock through the bottom of the camera . (the focusing lock that comes with camera does not help much here because it immobilises the gear rod, not focusing rack). However, I wonder if this is really necessary and the slight wobblyness has no real effect on sharpness due to the standard always coming to the same position when no force is applied to it? What is your experience with wooden cameras?
Joseph
P.S.
I just noticed there is a slight light leak at the bottom of the lensboard that came with the camera. The lensboard is Linhof Technika-style, with 2-3 mm long slots cut in the middle of the bottom and top edges of the lensboard. For some reason, the lens opening on the front standard of the camera is a bit too large, allowing a slight leak of light through the bottom slot of the lensboard. This is difficult to spot and should be easy fix: a bit of black silicone to fill in the slot. It may be also good to add silicone or foam all around the lens opening on front standard, to make those light seals of the lensboard actually do their job. Shen Hao uses velvet seal at the front surface of the lensboard seat as the light seal- apparently,no one thought of those slots on Technika lensboards.