Durst L1840 Enlarger 8x10 10x10--Everything you wanted to know...

[ic-racer]

Yes, so back to my initial though that our 240 lenses are the latest ones. The B barrel is described as follows:



The barrel type ”B”, with a built-in aperture, is the only unit which is offered in all four sizes (00, 0, 1, and 3).The f-stops are adjustable in half- step click stops.This durable metal barrel can be used in those situations where additional features like the illuminated aperture, click-stop over- ride, and pre-set aperture are not required.

[Torontoamateur]

When you " upgraded" to the more recent lens was there any real difference in the sharpness of the print? I have the silver Componon 360 and of course want the newer Rodagon, but is it really a noticeable difference in sharpness?

[Luis-F-S]

When you " upgraded" to the more recent lens was there any real difference in the sharpness of the print? I have the silver Componon 360 and of course want the newer Rodagon, but is it really a noticeable difference in sharpness?

I rather doubt that you'll see much-if any- difference. You're already using a good enlarging lens.

[Drew Wiley]

Lens performance has incrementally improved. Given a few steps down the line, the difference can indeed be seen in print, but only if all other things are properly calibrated and so forth. I use a true Apo 360, and it's quite a leap from any old chrome barrel lens. In the shorter focal lengths, Apo Rodagon N's do have really nice contrast and detail rendition. But regular Rodagons are excellent too, and offer intermediate focal lengths, like the 180mm I generally use for 4x5 printing. My fast 360 is an El Nikkor 5.6 - excellent quality, but way too big and heavy for many enlargers. With the L184, you'd have to use the single-hole board, and not the turret.
With the turret, Apo Nikkor f/9's - 240, 305, 360, etc, easily fit into standard turret rings. Unless you need an especially bright focus aperture, that's the way to go. These are now common and affordable used, and BETTER CORRECTED than any official enlarging lens - just make sure they're the superior 4-element dialyte design, and not Nikon's cheaper line of processes lenses (which I've never even encountered). Apo Nikkors were originally quite expensive, but fell out of usage when print shops resorted more to scanning than huge copy cameras.

[ic-racer]

When you " upgraded" to the more recent lens was there any real difference in the sharpness of the print? I have the silver Componon 360 and of course want the newer Rodagon, but is it really a noticeable difference in sharpness?

The upgrade was more for lens surface quality.
The new lenses were pretty clean from the start:

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[ic-racer]

Comparison of new-to-me lens and the older silver barrel lens.
Of course the rear-lighting exaggerates the poor condition of the coating. If you hold the lens away from a light source and just look through it, it appears clear. My B&W prints from the new and old lenses are essentially identical.

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[ic-racer]

Here is my silver Componon 360mm. This is after cleaning. It still has a little haze, but nothing that makes me want to replace it at this time. It is not nearly as bad as the other silver ones I have.

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[ic-racer]

So, the old turret contained:

Componon 150mm
Componon 210mm
Componon-S 240mm with some scratches



New turret:

Componon-S 135mm
Componon-S 210mm
Componon-S 240mm swapped barrels with pristine lens elements. Took two lenses apart and built one good one from the best parts of each.


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[ic-racer]

I see that Drew got some new enlarger glass recently and I'm considering the same this winter.

One carrier is AN + Plain, the other is Plain + Plain.

I see Drew recommends AN + AN.

Anyone else want to comment on the choice of glass.

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[Luis-F-S]

....My B&W prints from the new and old lenses are essentially identical.


Kind of what I just said

[Drew Wiley]

Hi - Just the other day I printed a couple of masked pyro-stained 8x10 negs with my VC blue-green cold light + blue filter for boosted contrast on VC paper. The two sheet method with my new ScanTech anti-newton glass worked great - no visible texture even with that high contrast and an Apo Nikkor lens (very high micro-textural rendition - like I said, better than any regular enlarging lens). But I don't know how the same glass would perform with small negatives and other light sources; probably just fine. But since I already have Durst AN glass for my colorhead enlargers, and Focal Point AN glass for the really big one, it's not a test I'm likely to undertake. My cold light unit isn't practical for small negs. Scan Tech also has regular non-AN high-quality glass too, if you want a top vs bottom option.
Slightly different topic - One reason I still keep on hand regular as well as Apo enlarging lenses it that sometimes I simply don't want that over-the-top micro-contrast, esp in certain color printing applications. Or, very complex mask or color separation neg setups are prone to grain exagerration, and a tad dial back is welcome. With large format, overall sharpness isn't affected much either way because the degree of magnification is modest. With little MF stuff I tend to lean toward Apo lenses routinely because the enlargement factor is greater. Ironically, not 35mm, however, since I use that more as a gritty fast-film snapshot device, and print 35mm images quite small, on those rare occasions I actually print 35mm film.

[ic-racer]

This COVID is relentless, now on 3rd wave so I have so many things that have been put off for months and months. However, I did get the day off today and I was doing some cleaning and rotating power units in and out of service. I noticed an error in hookup I made in 2010 when I got the CLS2000 head. I plugged it into the AUX output on the back of the EPU1000. Turns out that output only is supposed to support 1000W and the CLS2000 is 2000W. I had the fuse on the AUX outlet blow.

So, I re-wired it to have the CLS2000 plug directy into a 20A 240V outlet, rather than the back of the EPU1000. '

The EPU1000 is the box that sits between the legs of the enlarger.

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[ic-racer]

Inspecting the EPU with blown fuse.

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[ic-racer]

Swapping components in and out of service:
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[ic-racer]

New 240V outlet, next to the existing one for the enlarger. I also needed to change the plug on the cord to the CLS2000 so it can plug into the new outlet. I did not install European outlets. This is a standard USA style 240v 20A outlet with horizontal blades. In the breaker box the 20A breaker straddles both rails and delivers 240V.
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[ic-racer]

New hookup works great. Of course, reading the instructions helps. The CLS2000 manual indicates to plug the CLS2000 head into 240V, and nowhere does it indicated one is to do that on the back of the EPU1000 as one can do for the 1000W CLS1840 head.

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[ic-racer]

Remembering things ten years ago. This PSU that I just put into service was purchased in 2009 as a spare. Here is a picture of it as I found it in a photolab:
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[ic-racer]

I restored it back to its original condition. This is the list of repairs to the unit:


Re-do the wiring to the outlets in the back of unit
Replace one blown resistor
Repair the cable between the timer and the unit. The enlarger had run over the cable and the 60hz signal was inturrupted as the 60hz signal was carried by the flat cable strand at the far edge of the cable.
Replace 2 blown transistors

Those repairs got it back to perfect working condition.


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[Andrea Gazzoni]

Not sure what's the best way to mount shorter focal lenses such as 105mm or 80mm. It looks like for 50-80mm you use the Laratub recessed lensboard, while for 100-105mm you can mount the lens on the right Lapla which can go into a Unipla or a Tripla. How easy is to focus a 100mm lens without a recessed lensboards? I can't try it now on my enlarger which is in deep storage, but can imagine some bellows compression. Not planning to use the L184 for anything smaller than 6x7 though. Any experience? thanks

[Drew Wiley]

You certainly don't want to put your 184 bellows through that kind of torture. Go recessed. But if I want to enlarge something as tiny as 6X7 on my 184 rig (instead of a smaller enlarger), I simply use my 150 Apo Rodagon N lens, just like I routinely do with my 138 system. There's plenty of headroom unless you're enlarging big. I can't give a specific Durst recessed product designation, however, because my own recessed accessory was custom machined.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

thank you Drew

[Luis-F-S]

Not sure what's the best way to mount shorter focal lenses such as 105mm or 80mm. It looks like for 50-80mm you use the Laratub recessed lensboard, while for 100-105mm you can mount the lens on the right Lapla which can go into a Unipla or a Tripla. How easy is to focus a 100mm lens without a recessed lensboards? I can't try it now on my enlarger which is in deep storage, but can imagine some bellows compression. Not planning to use the L184 for anything smaller than 6x7 though. Any experience? thanks

Or you could use a Laratub N which is what I use on the 138 head, or use a longer lens.

[François Besson]

Hello,

I have a problem with my Durst 1840 : When I press the controls to raise or lower the enlarger head, I hear a very slight noise at the control panel but the head does not move... (the control of the lens plate works perfectly).

Is the problem mechanical or electronic?

If the problem is electronic: will it be solved by changing the height adjustment card?

If the problem is mechanical: is it possible to modify the enlarger so that the head movement is manual (like on a durst 184)?

(message translated by deepl, sorry for the imperfections)

Thanks in advance

François Besson

[ic-racer]

The motor is under the top cap. You can check for voltage up there, realizing the motor is on all the time, but locked not moving if the buttons are not pressed.

[François Besson]

Thank you for your answer.

I will do what you suggest in July when I am back in my lab.

The absence of voltage at the motor level would mean the failure of the electronic board. Is it possible to replace it ? or to modify the enlarger so that the movement of the head is manual (like on a durst 184) ?

François

[ic-racer]

Thank you for your answer.

I will do what you suggest in July when I am back in my lab.

The absence of voltage at the motor level would mean the failure of the electronic board. Is it possible to replace it ? or to modify the enlarger so that the movement of the head is manual (like on a durst 184) ?

François

Finding a new electronic board might be difficult and might only come in a replacement entire power supply. Repairing the existing board will require a lot of skill and experience with electrical circuits. The schematic and repair manual are available.

[Anton Robert]

Dust L1840 Focus Unit

I recently bought a Durst L1840 with a Durst CLS300 Head, it has a motorised baseboard and a motor for the head. There is also a motorised focus unit on the side of the head with a remote switch on a cable.
Inside this focus unit there is a missing main gear.
Does anyone have info or pictures of what it should look like?

[ic-racer]

Dust L1840 Focus Unit

I recently bought a Durst L1840 with a Durst CLS300 Head, it has a motorised baseboard and a motor for the head. There is also a motorised focus unit on the side of the head with a remote switch on a cable.
Inside this focus unit there is a missing main gear.
Does anyone have info or pictures of what it should look like?

Your question reads like you have a L184. Do you have a Lamot 110 as in the picture?
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[Anton Robert]

There is no Lamot 11O, or hand crank. The motors are at the back of the enlarger, one for the head and one for the baseboard that has a vacuum board.
The lens focus motor is on the side of the unit, there is a gear missing that links the motor to the lens board.

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[ic-racer]

Ok thank you for the picture. Looks like a Durst L1800. Having one of the gears will allow you to figure the pitch and physical width. Knowing the shaft centers will give the diameter of the new gear. You should be able to have one CNC or 3d printed.

[Anton Robert]

Ok thank you for the picture. Looks like a Durst L1800. Having one of the gears will allow you to figure the pitch and physical width. Knowing the shaft centers will give the diameter of the new gear. You should be able to have one CNC or 3d printed.

Would you perhaps have a wiring diagram for the Durst CLS300 head and power supply Unit?


Thank You, good to know it's the Durst L1800, there is not much information around anymore, much appreciated.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

not sure if it's better to post here or in a separate thread.
anyways, I just got a G-Componon 100mm lens that I planned to use on my Durst enlarger with the Laratub recessed lensboard.
The problem is the lens has a 50mm mounting thread, while the lensboard has a 39mm thread (red arrow in the picture).
The thread in the lensboard looks like it is an adapter ring, the silver part in this picture is 50mm wide (yellow arrow), but it doesn't seem to come off.
Any idea? I understand if this won't come off the only option may be drilling a larger hole in the lensboard and then maybe having an adapter from 50 to 39mm made for future needs.
thanks

[ic-racer]

I'd get a different lens. There must be a million 100mm lenses out there but very few Laratubs. I'd not damage the Laratub.

Unless you are making 40" images from 6x9cm negatives, why not use a 135mm and mount it on a flat lensboard. I use my Laratub only for 50mm lens. Even an 80mm will focus on a moderately recessed lensboard on my enlarger so I suspect the 100mm might focus on a flat lensboard. Have you tried it?

With the 80mm mounted like that the turret won't rotate. Just remove the lensboard when not using it and cap the hole with a lid from a water bottle or put a different lens to fill the hole.

Or mount the 100mm lens on a Unipla which does not rotate.

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[Andrea Gazzoni]

well, not that I've seen a million of these G lenses lately

[Andrea Gazzoni]

yes the plan is to print up to 40" from 6x7 negatives. I would like to use the Laratub, as I suspect you get some bellows compression with a flat lensboard. All of this is pure speculation on my side, as I cannot unbox the enlarger currently in storage

[ic-racer]

well, not that I've seen a million of these G lenses lately

I thought maybe you intended to type "S" as I thought the shortest "G" was a 150mm.

So, indeed you have a very rare lens!

The manual for L1840 indicates a 100 will mount on a 50mm Lapla flat lensboard on a Unipla.
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[Andrea Gazzoni]

thanks IC.
so it seems they only made the Laratub for M39 lenses

[ic-racer]

I'd be curious to see a picture of the "G" Componon. I have never seen one in person.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

there you go.
the illuminated fstop scale is really a thing.
also have the 240 G-Componon but it doesn't sport such a sleek feature.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

the recess in the Laratub is so deep that my 100mm is all inside it and the fstop scale is completely hidden. I wonder how you do with your 50mm. looks like setting the aperture requires temporarily removing the lens from the Laratub.

yes, Unipla + Lapla looks like a better option provided that the bellows allows it (mine is a L184)

[ic-racer]

Ok you have the L184. I thought you had L1840, because the Laratub is for L1840. The L184 has the Latub 2500.

So, in that case the L184 manual shows the 100mm lens does need a recessed board. They indicate a Seipla, which is the recessed insert shown in post #783 above.

I can see the aperture ok with Laratub (first picture).

Do you use the Laratub on L184? I did not know it worked on the L184 as the L184 had the Hotub 2500 which is deeper (second picture).

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[Andrea Gazzoni]

yes I was planning on using my Laratub on the L184 with this 100mm lens, but it seems impractical due mostly to the design of the lens and its fancy scale.
If I put a standard Componon-S 50mm on the Laratub, the regular scale with white numbers on the outer rim of the lens is visible.
Even more so are the larger printed numbers on the EL Nikkor lenses (neat idea by Nikon not to follow the proportions between lens and numbers).

Talking recessed lensboards, my thought is that Laratub is the best option, Seipla being too narrow of a cup and Hotub being too deep.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

let me add another thought.
I took the last picture with the lensboard put on a table, room light on, comfortably sitting at the best angle, etc.
How will it be reading those small numbers with the lensboard reversed and fitted on the head of the Durst at 5' height (and you're 6') in the dark? Looks not easy...

[ic-racer]

Maybe a little prism to see the numbers.
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[Andrea Gazzoni]

jeez now you got me intrigued

[Andrea Gazzoni]

or maybe something like this

[ic-racer]

The reason I thought of a little prism is that once I was asked to fix a Kiev metered prism. The owner thought it was 'dead.' In fact it used a tiny prism to reflect the LEDs so they could be seen through the viewfinder. The LEDs were certainly on but could no longer be witnessed because the prism had come loose and was rattling around in the housing.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

looks like it should work.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

was wondering, what's the heaviest lens one can mount onto the L184 on a standard lensboard, like Vapla or Unipla?
I have 5lbs of lovely glass that I would like to put on it, not sure if I have to rig some custom mount or what.
thanks

[ic-racer]

2300 grams!! You can't just post that question without a picture :)

[Drew Wiley]

I sold him the lens and answered via email. 5 lbs is a peice of cake for the disc position of a L184. No problem whatsoever. It's an EL Nikkor 360/5.6, a very nice lens but big. That large max aperture was really nice for printing big Cibachromes to alleviate long exposures of big prints; but I used it for big chromogenic prints too, where the larger aperture makes focus and composition easier with orange-masked color neg films.

[ic-racer]

That is heavy (actually 2700g per the brochure below). The Schenider Componon 360/5.6 I have is listed at only 1310 grams.

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Don't think they ever made a APO-EL Nikkor in 360, but the APO-EL Nikkor 480/5.6 dwarfs that at 7210 grams!

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[Andrea Gazzoni]

I sold him the lens and answered via email. 5 lbs is a peice of cake for the disc position of a L184. No problem whatsoever.

glad to hear, thank you Drew

[Andrea Gazzoni]

it makes the Rodagon 360 look skinny

[ic-racer]

Recent picture:

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[ic-racer]

I ordered new negative carrier glass. Will post more specifics when it arrives.

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[ic-racer]

My negative carrier glass is on the way from Knight Optical!

I currently have three plain pieces and a single AN piece spread across two negative holders (one for the Laraneg and one for the Negatiel). The two carriers look almost identical but they are slightly different. The glass in them is, however, interchangeable.

I ordered two AN pieces and two plain pieces as replacements and/or spares. I was going to do this about 5 years ago and found out all the places I was going to get the glass had gone out of business. So, when I contacted Knight Optical, and they said they could custom cut the glass, I went ahead and ordered it.

The original is 3mm x 268 x 268.

The nominal 3mm glass they have is actually 3.3mm. This could be an issue but I did some measurements with stacks of negatives in the carrier and I believe it should still close all the way. We will see.

The original glass only has a bevel on one side but they beveled both sides for safety handling and to prevent chipping.


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[Andrea Gazzoni]

The original glass only has a bevel on one side but they beveled both sides for safety handling and to prevent chipping.



this is odd, if I recall correct both my Reglas 205 AN and normal glasses are beveled on four sides.

how was their price?

[Drew Wiley]

All Durst glass was relieved (slightly beveled) on all four sides, front and back. Even an ordinary glass shop would do that for any kind of glass unintended to be handled, like a tabletop, for example. Omega enlarger glass had a strong bevel one one side, both ends, to fit their carriers, but a minor amount of relief all edges too, for sake of safe handling.

It interesting to see that Knight offers 3mm thick, which might be nice for larger sizes, but could be just too thick in a paired sandwich in certain custom setups; that's a quarter-inch of cumulative thickness for just the glass sandwich! And you'd have a problem with that thickness in the 5X& Durst Nega 130 carriers.

[Daniel Unkefer]

KHB in Canada sells AN glass and will custom cut it too:

http://www.khbphotografix.com/ServiceParts2.html

[Andrea Gazzoni]

Actually the basic negative holder Nega 205 does not have beveled glasses, the sides are simply ground. The glasses are just placed there, not really blocked.
In the Lagraneg, Laraneg and Negateil the dynamics of clamping the glasses change and require bevelling.

[ic-racer]

Just to make clear. A sheet of AN glass has two sides, one with the AN treatment and the other side smooth.

The original Durst glass has a bevel only on the AN side as seen in the attached image. All 4 of my glasses are like that and are the original glass that came with the enlarger. I bought the enlarger from the first owner.

Having said that, Knight Optical indicated to me that their technician put a bevel on both sides (the smooth side and the AN side).

[Andrea Gazzoni]

as long as it fits under the guides of your negative holder, it makes sense

[ic-racer]

KHB in Canada sells AN glass and will custom cut it too:

http://www.khbphotografix.com/ServiceParts2.html

This would be a good 'second choice' as the glass they sell is only 2mm thick, rather than 3mm used in the Durst. Per KHB, that is the thickness of glass in the Omega F 10x10 glass carrier and presumably the thin glass works fine in that setup.

However, the Durst CLS2000 blows air, quite forcibly, on the glass and I am concerned with the thinner glass flexing.

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[ic-racer]

as long as it fits under the guides of your negative holder, it makes sense

Fingers crossed...

[ic-racer]

I have cut and beveled AN negative carrier glass in the past, so if the new glass is not correct, I can rework it.

I have about 15 sheets of negative carrier glass in both AN and smooth counting all my carriers and spare glass.


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[Drew Wiley]

Even fine-grit black silicon-carbide emery cloth, along with water, can relieve sharp edges sufficient enough for safe handling. Just don't scratch the faces. And I stipulate emery cloth due to its greater strength and skin protection, rather than wet-dry sanding paper.

[ic-racer]

They did not bevel it. I can send it back and have them re-do it, bevel it myself, or take it to the local glass shop that cut and beveled the edges of my 12mm contact printing glass.

Waiting to hear back from them.

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[ic-racer]

BTW the glass is beautiful!! The AN surface appears to have the exact same texture as my Durst AN glass.

I thought my existing glass was fine, but by side-by-side comparison to the new glass, my existing glass looks all beat up.

[ic-racer]

This was the last print I made on the old glass on Ilford MG FB 11x14 inch.
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[Andrea Gazzoni]

I have cut and beveled AN negative carrier glass in the past,

now that's interesting, with a dremel!

[Andrea Gazzoni]

BTW the glass is beautiful!! The AN surface appears to have the exact same texture as my Durst AN glass.

I thought my existing glass was fine, but by side-by-side comparison to the new glass, my existing glass looks all beat up.

how was their price?

[ic-racer]

now that's interesting, with a dremel!

Yes that is the diamond bit. It cut through 2mm glass edge with not too many passes.
I'm sure I could get it to work for this new glass, but two edges need to be beveled the entire 10 inches. The other two sides, where the locking mechanism resides, only need a bevel over about 3 inches or so for the lock to catch.

[ic-racer]

how was their price?

$120 for the plain and $150 for the AN. Not unreasonable, but they had a $650 minimum, so I had to buy 4 pieces. In the end that was ok because, although I only needed one spare set, both of my carriers' glass will benefit from the fresh glass.

[Drew Wiley]

Actual glass edging routers (more like a mini router table with special bits) aren't terribly expensive, or could be rigged up even adapting a toyish Dremel Mini Router Table, if you select the right bit. Just clamp everything down good, and protect eyes and hands. Experiment first. Or just pay a local glass shop a token fee to do it for you. Typically, these AN glass types need to same kind of tooling as for tempered glass, but for a slightly different reason.

If I were personally to do glass edging on volume scale, I'd use my deluxe full sized router station with its superb dust extraction. But the appropriate kind of diamond bit for that thing would cost hundred of dollars; so I never go there. Shaping wood, even phenolic, etc - whole different story.

[ic-racer]

So, I'm not too happy with Knight Optical. Apperently they can't make the bevel I specified. They are only telling me this after I complained and after I have paid for the glass and have it in my hand.

Anyway, rather than ruin my day, I just beveled it myself.


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[ic-racer]

The frustrating part was that all the handling to do the bevel made the glass dirty and it needed to be cleaned which was a real chore.

After all the work now I have beautiful new glass in my negative carrier. A little bit of a nightmare but at least it is over and who knows, in 5 years perhaps there won't be ANY place to get the glass.

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[Christopher Nisperos]

Bravo! Great work.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

just received a small lot of parts for my 184.
included were these new-to-me metal "masks" of sorts.
they are made of sheet metal: 0,85mm thick.
I've gor six pieces which measure about

1x 8x12"
2x 4 2/3 x 12"
1x 2 1/4 x 12"
2x 2 x 12"

each has two metal "pegs", looks like these were meant to be placed inside something, maybe an easel.
only one piece has a marking "with border/borderless".

any idea?

[Drew Wiley]

Looks like the adjustable kind which fit inside the enlarger right below the negative stage. They're somewhat a headache to get to unless you have the entire top off already.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

I have read this thread in its entirety a few times through the years, as it evolves -- every time I thought I was close to just about get my hands on one…

It looks like I might just get one finally… an L139 with the CLS 2000 head.

I would appreciate it if someone who has the user and repair manuals for the CLS2000, could send me a copy.

In the past ten years or so I've collected all the manuals I could find online, including a repair manual for the EST 2000 (non N) in German, but never found the user and repair manuals for the head…

[ic-racer]

I have never come across a copy of the repair manuals for either the CLS1840 or CLS2000 heads.

The only thing I have is a schematic of the CLS1840 head which I have attached here:

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[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Thank you for all the files.
Much appreciated!

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Going back through this thread it really amazes me how time flies. Posts from 2009 seem like yesterday.
Anyway I did find one of my FTL (CP43) 2000W lamps I got in 2009 and it does indeed fit in the hole in my reflector without enlarging the hole.
So, it looks like there were two different versions of the FTL, one with the bulge and one without.

What I cannot answer right now is if the FTL (CP43) without the bulge is still in production.

The picture below shows two different FTL (CP43) lamps from different sources. Top one is 36mm, the bottom one is 26mm.

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ic-racer,

Did you ever put the CP43 that fits the reflector to use, and do you have any comments as to how it compares to the original Thorn?

Specifically:

Do the fans run for more time, suggesting overheating?
Does it work in both vertical and horizontal orientation?
Have you used it long enough to comment on longevity?

[ic-racer]

No, I have not tried the CP43 lamp.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Has anyone here put an L184 or L139 on rails for horizontal projection?

The L184 manual suggests the use of 80x40x7mm T-rails, while the CSL2000 manual suggests V-rails (of unspecified dimensions).

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My own measurements of the gap in the wheels is 8mm wide and 8mm deep.

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The 40mm high T-rail seems a bit too much…

--
Also, any tips on initial setup regarding alignment will be greatly appreciated.

My previous (and current) horizontal enlarger allowed independent and precise adjustment of the negative plain in both axes.

I imagine that I would need to perform alignment with the enlarger already on the rails, and the thing is too big and heavy to toy around…

[ic-racer]

I rescued two L1840 enlargers and both were mounted on tracks when I went to pick them up.

I looked back at pictures I took when collecting the enlargers and found these two pictures that show the tracks.

I did not pay too much attention to the tracks at the time, and can't really make out exactly what is going on in the pictures.

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[Drew Wiley]

I'd get steel T-rails if you can find them, not anodized aluminum, which might have a problem in the long run with that kind of weight. I once did it, but back when it was a lot easier to find straight smooth steel runners than now, at least locally at modest price. Of course, your floor itself needs to be perfectly level and unbending.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

My floor is tile over concrete.

Had the same concerns about aluminum, so that settles it.

A search for steel T-rails in the specified dimensions (or close to them) was unsuccessful.

I'm considering using 35x35x3.5mm galvanised angle iron, which is readily available.
Putting 2 angles back-to-back would create a T shape close to the one suggested in the L184 manual.

I'm also considering adding a strip of 4mm thick rubber sheet between the rail and the floor.
The thinking is that this could eliminate any micro unevenness of the floor, plus reduce any vibrations from traffic of the road outside the darkroom.
I would add a single point of contact between one of the rails and the floor for grounding.

Thoughts?

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

ic-racer,
I have a folder (with many subfolders) with pictures of 8x10 Dursts that I've saved through the years.
Sadly, none of the pictures that include setups with rails are focused on the rail systems, so they're not very helpful as instructions either…

[Andrea Gazzoni]

I'm curious too about the movement of the enlarger on the rails. my 184 if I'm not mistaken has the wheels arranged for a right / left movement instead of forward / backward, so it's not very clear to me how it should be positioned. basically if I put it against a wall, it just slides to the right or left. I don't think the wheels can be rotated.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

I'm curious too about the movement of the enlarger on the rails. my 184 if I'm not mistaken has the wheels arranged for a right / left movement instead of forward / backward, so it's not very clear to me how it should be positioned. basically if I put it against a wall, it just slides to the right or left. I don't think the wheels can be rotated.

The wheels do not rotate on purpose. Once your rotate the head 90 degrees for horizontal projection, the lens faces in the direction of travel.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

Yes this is clear, what I don't get is why the enlarger is meant to remain in fixed position in relation to the back wall. I would have expected it to travel towards the center of the room, in order to make an horizontal projection on the center of the wall.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

to better understand, left is the current configuration, right is as I would have expected for murals.
I get now that the left scenario allows for size adjustment given a focal lenght, while the right configuration makes for a fixed size of enlargement.
Still the bottom wall (which is at the back of the enlarger) gets in the way. Confused. I mean I would never choose to project horizontally to the corner between two walls, but rather to the center of a free wall

[Andrea Gazzoni]

maybe this would be the ideal placement

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

maybe this would be the ideal placement

Yes, this is the correct placement.
The rails (and the enlarger's base) need to be perpendicular to the wall you want to project on.

Based on the size of that wall and the largest negative-to-wall distance you can get in your darkroom, you can calculate the biggest enlargement achievable with a given local length.
The equation is:
D=(F*(M+1)²)/M
(D=film-to-paper-distance, F=focal length, M=magnification)

Also, it makes sense to try and aim the len's axis as close to the center of that wall as possible.

It's easier to understand all this while standing in front of your enlarger, than by reading this text alone…

[gary mulder]

From the durst 2506 documentation.

[ic-racer]

Both L1840 that I obtained were used permanently for horizontal projection. At the time the L1840 was about 1/2 to 1/3 the price of the dedicated Durst horizontal enlargers. So, for both labs, it was more cost effective to get the vertical enlargers and tip them 90 degrees. 241041

[gary mulder]

AFAIK the rails required for the 1840 is the same as for the 2506.

[Drew Wiley]

One could easily replace the sheave rollers on these enlargers with ones specifically matched to other tracking. An industrial supplier like McMaster here in the US could provide a matched set. But I have no idea about Euro sources.

You DON'T want any rubber under the rails. That will induce vibration. You want as solid, flat, and firm a floor as possible. There are types of self-leveling rapid-curing concrete which make that task fairly easy. But again, I'm only familiar with specific products here.

OR you could affix your rails to two very solid thick milled planks of a dense stable hardwood like maple, even atop a single wide maple countertop, or something analogous, and in that manner have an even dependable support.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

From the durst 2506 documentation.

Gary,

Thanks for sharing the 2506 instructions for installation on the rails.
The text does provide some information on proper procedure for putting the rails on the floor.

However, the L184 base has different wheels.
Here is a picture that I took for my records, before assembling the upper column:

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For reference, on the left is a brochure for the 2501, and on the right for the L184:

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By the way, since the 2506 has the same (or close enough) light source as the CLS2000 head, if you have any manuals (user and repair) that you can share, I would really appreciate it!

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

You DON'T want any rubber under the rails. That will induce vibration. You want as solid, flat, and firm a floor as possible.

Drew,

Can you elaborate on this, or provide sources?
I'm not saying you're wrong, but my thought on putting rubber under the rails was based on two different sources.

1) This is an excerpt from Lefkowitz's "The manual of close-up photography":

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2) Celestron sells what they call "vibration suppression pads", to put under the feet of your tripod.

In general, I prefer to do my own testing.
Trying both options (with and without rubber substrate under the rails) and comparing actual prints side by side would be my preference, but in this case I will have to make a choice up front and stick with it, or risk hernia…

[Drew Wiley]

My gosh! A massive L184 and rail setup is nothing like that tiny macro illustration or a tripod based Celestron, which also sounds hokey. I've seen astro and pro wildlife photographers at work many times, and there was even a Celestron dealer right down the street, and they never used rubber pads or ordinary tripods! Hard (not soft) rubber cups and pads are just for sake of preventing floor scratching from tripod feet. I also sold surveying instruments and survey lasers requiring precise alignment. You don't want any kind of soft rubber under under such things - it amplifies vibrations.

And yes, I do know what I'm talking about. I interacted with major photo, tech, and even aerospace labs as a supplier of materials. The company I worked for even had massive steel rail and sheeve systems in stock that would support tons of load. I don't know specific sources in Europe, but you can at least go to the well-illustrated McMaster Carr website in this country and study that particular category of INDUSTRIAL items, and learn about what is available. Photo gear suppliers are not the right kind of source for this kind of thing.

You don't want vibration period, or anything bouncy. The floor needs to be rock solid. Bridge any unevenness with a firm new flooring over
the area to be used, not with rubber shims. The rails need to be completely level, flat and straight, bolted firmly down. I'd even recommend a third overhead steel beam trolley supporting the head from above, though that might not be feasible in some spaces, or too complicated a project for you personally.

[Kiwi7475]

Rubber cannot amplify vibrations unless you make it resonate at its natural resonant frequency, like any other material. that’s just physics. But rubber is one of the best vibration dampers out there because it can be made to have a high damping coefficient. The only concern for rubber is if you’re hitting whatever it supports with your body or feet or whatever.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Drew and Kiwi7475,
Thank you both for your contributions.

[gary mulder]

Gary,

Thanks for sharing the 2506 instructions for installation on the rails.

By the way, since the 2506 has the same (or close enough) light source as the CLS2000 head, if you have any manuals (user and repair) that you can share, I would really appreciate it!

The light source of a 2506 is a electronically controlled closed loop light source with filters controlled by stepping motors. That is a very different beast.

Do you have a closeup photo of the rear wheels of the l184 ? A T rail will always have some slack. Hard to achieve enough precision. I have worked with 5 horizontal Durst but never on a T rail. Look closely at the photos ic-racer posted. The front rail is a flat rail.

[Tin Can]

I may be not seeing correctly

Is one floor rail captive and the other allows wander

Just watching

[Drew Wiley]

Kiwi - have you actually installed or worked with a big horizontal enlarger? And a horizontally-oriented L184 chassis is even worse, because it's a big post. There is simply no substitute for a truly flat stable floor. If that involves seeking help from a construction professional to reinforce and level the floor, so be it. I taught classes on such techniques; and we shipped cargo container loads of self-leveling cement to military installations and defense contractors all through the Pacific, as well as to all kinds of local industries and R&D facilities, including major photo labs. It really isn't all that expensive to do it right unless there is a major floor flexing issue to begin with. No need for rubber. And most rubber shim doesn't last all that long to begin with, unless it's pure silicone.

There is no flat rail, but an illustration of the option of either L and T-style rails. I'd rather both of them be T-style for sake of greater rigidity and ease of mounting. All four sheaves are identical.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

The light source of a 2506 is a electronically controlled closed loop light source with filters controlled by stepping motors. That is a very different beast.

Do you have a closeup photo of the rear wheels of the l184 ? A T rail will always have some slack. Hard to achieve enough precision.

I based my comment on information provided by Durst-USA.
This is an excerpt from a pdf:

241230

Also, all four wheels are the same.

[ic-racer]

I have never seen a picture of a HL2500. May be a rare beast.

[gary mulder]

I have never seen a picture of a HL2500. May be a rare beast.

You don't want to see one IRL. Maintaining one will give you a real headache. Last year I gave op on my last electronically controlled Durst. I am back to a bare essential 1840.

[Drew Wiley]

I know where there is one of the autofocus versions in storage. It's was the lab owner's least favorite Durst - too much unique about it, and in a finicky high-maintenance manner.

With all my Durst renovations, I bypassed the electronics entirely, and simply hard-wired the thing, separating the 115 and 240 V circuits.

[ic-racer]

I wondered if the HL2500 had manual adjusted filters like the CLS2000 as indicated in Jens’ documentation posted above.

Another interpretation is I once saw what I thought was an electronic CLS2000 on his now defunct site. Maybe that is the head shared by the two enlargers.

[gary mulder]

The only thing that is shared are the light bulb and the reflector. By the way the reflector(s) will by the most problematic in the future to maintain.

[Michael Kadillak]

By the way the reflector(s) will by the most problematic in the future to maintain.

That is a true statement unless you put a Heliand LED multi contrast head on the enlarger. A dynamic game changer.

[Drew Wiley]

I have a CLS301 atop my L184 chassis. The reflectors are built into the ELH bulbs, which are very common. Back when I had the nuclear option 2000W CLS300, that did require independent reflectors, which in fact had to be periodically replaced at considerable expense, due to the extreme heat. The later CLS2000 head also uses specialized bulbs. But I'm very skeptical about the Heiland or any other LED head having enough lumen output for serious color printing. Might be fine for MG black and white papers, but so is any ordinary colorhead, which will do color paper too. Incidentally, Jens would convert older 2000W heads to accept ordinary halogen reflector bulbs instead. Whether you ever got delivery of it was a different story.

[Michael Kadillak]

I have a CLS301 atop my L184 chassis. The reflectors are built into the ELH bulbs, which are very common. Back when I had the nuclear option 2000W CLS300, that did require independent reflectors, which in fact had to be periodically replaced at considerable expense, due to the extreme heat. The later CLS2000 head also uses specialized bulbs. But I'm very skeptical about the Heiland or any other LED head having enough lumen output for serious color printing. Might be fine for MG black and white papers, but so is any ordinary colorhead, which will do color paper too. Incidentally, Jens would convert older 2000W heads to accept ordinary halogen reflector bulbs instead. Whether you ever got delivery of it was a different story.

Apples and oranges Drew. The Heiland LED heads are designed specifically for B&W printing. My challenge with the high intensity color head was not just the heat, but the ceiling in my darkroom as a serious limitation. Replaced all of what was above the negative carrier (diffusion box and filter carriers etc) with a 3 1/2" tall square metal bolt on accessory that tips the scale at about 3.5#was a huge difference. And what a joy it is to work with. The gears on my center column have never had it so easy.

[Drew Wiley]

Oh gosh, I have both my L184 and an even much bigger vertical 8x10 color enlarger in a room with a 16 ft high ceiling. And it has fiberglass FRP fire-resistant panel stapled to the ceiling, along with the walls directly behind the colorheads. But in a different room with typical 8 ft ceiling ht, I have a couple of shorter 138 chassis, one with a 5x7 colorhead on it, the other with an 8X10 stage and 12X12 cold light pancake on it. So, for those seeking a modern alternative to flat cold lights, LED seems the way to go for b&w printing at least. But weight? I actually had to attach a dumbwaiter counterbalance to one of my enlargers to offset the reduced head weight - a long ABS tube filled with lead birdshot, attached to a cable and pulley. Fun projects - all of them.

[ic-racer]

Yes, the latest Durst 10x10 color heads are quite high. In my darkroom I get around the loss of head height with a 240 Componon-S for 40" prints on the baseboard. Otherwise, for 98% of the rest of the time the 300mm works, or I can swing the head and project on the wall.

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[Thodoris Tzalavras]

(from post #618):
When you get the CLS1840 you should get the EST1000 with it and some light box diffusers. The light box diffusers are in two parts, upper and lower. You will need a timer, as the timing unit is incorporated into the power supply for the L1840 chassis, rather than the CLS1840 head. From what I recall, just about any timer will work. The timer does not actually control the 1000W lamp, it triggers a relay in the unit which starts the exposure process (fan on, lamp pre-heat, shutter open, shutter close, etc.)


The CLS2000 manual doesn't give any specs for timer suitability.

Is my 220v digital timer with "switching capacity: 1000va" and an "T4amp " safe to use?

-----
(also, separate question):

According to the CLS2000 manual the EST2000 stabilizer consumes 2500w.

I'm assuming that this is based on 2000w for the lamp and the other 500w for the fans, indicator lamps, electronic shutter, etc…

The older EST2000 gives the option to run the lamp at either 1000w or 2000w.

When the 1000w is selected, is the consumption still 2500w, or does it fall to say 1500w?

[ic-racer]

Yes, I believe any timer will work as the timer only powers a relay inside the EST2000.

I also suspect the current draw will only be 1500 watts or so with the low power setting.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Thank you ic-racer.
Not ready yet to attempt actual printing, since there are still many things that need fixing…
I'm taking it a step at a time…
Safety first…

[gary mulder]

The EST2000 draws 1,62 kW switched to 1000 watt. But as a result of it's power factor it still takes almost 10 A

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Thanks Gary,
That's very helpful.
The breaker for the wall outlets in my darkroom is 40A, but all my cables from the wall outlets towards any device which is not close to a wall are 13A.
The short length cables that came with my L184/CLS2000 are 16A.
I just wanted to make sure that I won't have any issues of overheating.
This is partly why I'm thinking of using the 1000w option.
Also, for the 100 more hours of projected lamp life…

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Does anyone know of a source for dichroic filters for the CLS 2000 head?

A preliminary search shows that most places top out at 50mm square, which is too small.

Specifically, I need to replace the Magenta filter, but since I only print black and white, Blue would work as well.

Also, even though the user manual says to "clean the color filters from time to time", I don't see how I could access the filters without completely opening up the head.
If any of you have done this, please let me know how.

[Drew Wiley]

Cleaning filters is tricky, and you must be very gentle. And yes, they're hard to get to. A blue filter would be significantly more dense than a magenta one. For sake of fire safety, your colorhead must be well cooled with the fan sending the hot air outdoors, and the head should be well below the ceiling. I personally have Fire Resistant fiberglass panels above and behind my L184 systems.

Coating companies can supply any size filter you need, but I don't know Euro sources. Hoya Industrial in Japan can do it.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Question:

According to the manual, there are 2 IR filters between the halogen lamp and the dichroic filters…

In my head, there is only one…

Could anyone check and let me know if theirs has one or two?

248855

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Relating to my above question about the IR filter(s) in the CLS 2000 head:

I'm currently talking (email) with Kienzle in Germany about the possibility of buying replacement dichroic and IR filters from them.

So, if anyone can verify the number/size/type of the proper IR filter for this head, I would greatly appreciate it.

By the way, I think that you can see if your head has one or two IR filters without having to open up the top part of the head… lifting the lamp holder and removing the reflector gives full view of the IR filter. You can't remove it from this position, but you can visually inspect it.

My head has only one glass in this position (#32 in the above diagram) which measures 110 x 110 x 2mm.

[gary mulder]

Between the shutter and the dichroic filters. About 72x72 mm. A frame with a IR filter and a series glas rods.
(Picture’s from my spare parts donor )

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Hi Gary,

Thank you so much for jumping in, I just saved your pics and measurements in my reference folder…

The filter in your picture is the #33 in the diagram in post #877 just above, which is referred to as UV-absorbing in the text.

I'm considering replacing the #32 filter , which is _above_ the dichroic filters, and between them and the lamp/reflector, which is referred to as IR-absorbing in the text.

I would appreciate any info you might have on it!

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I am saving up to buy one in almost mint condition.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

In the CLS 2000 manual there are two separate references of 2 Infra-Red absorbing filters between the lamp/dichroic-reflector assembly and the color Dichroic filters:

248945

The closest I can get in terms of identifying the correct part for the filter in position 32 in this diagram, is from the Spare Parts List for the Durst HL 2501 AF…

It's the part #7, which is identified as "Heat protection filter, Code number: AA98429"

248946

The metal frame/mechanism holding this filter in place is identical to the one in my head…
In this low quality picture, it looks like there is only one glass in that position… just like in my head…

248947

I wonder of the possibility that maybe different generations of CLS 2000 heads (they were produced from 1977 to 1990), might have different filters in the "position 32" of the CLS 2000 manual…

By the way, there is a notable difference between the these heads:
It looks like the upper fan in the HL 2501 only blows air on the lamp/dichroic-reflector assembly alone, while in the CLS 2000 the air stream from the same fan also reaches the dichroic filters…

I would greatly appreciate any additional information on these IR filters.

[ic-racer]

I can't offer any useful information on the filters. I did not take my CLS2000 head apart that far. In fact the CLS2000 I got had never been taken apart before and was essentially untampered and in excellent shape (except for a short that I fixed).

[Mark J]

Normally I would expect Schott KG1 as a filter in these locations. I think that was what was used on the 138S . That is relatively colourless

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

ic-racer,

I won't get into the "why" I had to open the head that far just yet, in order to avoid muddy the waters with information unrelated to the question at hand… once I'm done fixing the filters, I'll post some details in case it proves useful to others…

---
Mark J,

Having followed your thread on the IR heat filter for the L138s, it did cross my mind that maybe the "Two heat filters" in the CLS 2000 manual might actually refer to 1 filter in 2 pieces, as is the case in your enlarger (and also in my Ilford MG500 head as well)…

That is why in my post #878 I asked other users of this head if they could remove the lamp reflector and look down towards the color filters…
If their IR filter was indeed two parts, there should be a clearly visible line were the two pieces touch in the middle…

[Mark J]

This is quite possible. I believe that the Schott filter materials were/are only produced in a limited width, which would require fitting two filters side by side to cover the area.
I have a piece of KG3 ready to use in my head, but haven't found someone to cut the rectangular pice into two, with accurate edges yet. With only a 160W bulb, I seem to be coping OK without it.

[ic-racer]

I scanned my archives and I did not take many pictures of my CLS2000 when I was preparing it for use. Nothing that would help here.
248969
248970
248971
248972

[gary mulder]

I wonder of the possibility that maybe different generations of CLS 2000 heads (they were produced from 1977 to 1990), might have different filters in the "position 32" of the CLS 2000 manual…



Yes there is a difference. The older one uses a slightly higher "oben" box And a optional IR filter without the glass rods. The newer one has a slightly beter light distribution.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

ic-racer,

I know the feeling…
When I had the head open back in January, I only took pictures of the dichroic filters…
That's why I haven't posted a picture of the filter in question from my own archive…
When I open it up again, I'll make sure to take more pictures…

---
Gary,

I consider you an authority on the subject, and I hate to contradict you, but I'm relatively sure that:

The 72 x 72mm filter (in the pictures you shared in post #879 ) which goes just above the glass rod diffuser assembly, is in fact a UV filter.

The IR filter is much larger (110 x 110mm) and its position is above the CMY dichroic filters.

The position of the IR filter is such, as to protect the CMY dichroic filters from excess thermal infrared radiation, and help extend the life of the dichroic filters… It would make no sense for it to be placed below them…

Please check again this diagram, and the accompanying text:

248980

[gary mulder]

Just inspect your own one. If there are clips and a recess for a filter under the shutter. As in the first foto that ic-racer shows.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

So, I reopened my CLS 2000 head, in order to take some pictures of the IR filter in position 32.

249158

249159

249160

As you can see, this filter is actually part of the light bulb / dichroic reflector assembly.

(Just like in the head of the Durst HL 2501 AF, which I shared in post #882).

It's completely separate from all the other filters, and is held in place by a spring loaded metal frame.

The dimensions of the filter in my head are 108 x 108 x 2.3mm
(but a 3mm thick filter could easily slide into position)….
It's colorless when you look through it, but light reflected at 45 degrees has a slight magenta hue…

249161

The reason why I asked for confirmation from other users, is because my enlarger came to me used and somewhat abused, with several alterations…

My Magenta dichroic filter is damaged, and I considered the possibility that the filter in position 32 might not be original, or that (even though visually in good condition) might not cut enough thermal IR radiation to properly protect the color filters, because of age or other reasons…

So, if someone could confirm that the filter in their enlarger has the same dimensions as the one in mine, it would ease my mind when ordering a replacement, since the odds that 2 enlargers with different ownership backgrounds should have the same non original filter are, well, very low…

Add to the equation the mention in the CLS 2000 manual that there are 2 IR filters in position 32, and the necessity for my question was born…

I understand that completely opening up your head to check for the answer to my question is a non starter, but I hoped that someone might already know the answer…

Alternatively, someone might be willing to remove the lamphouse cover (by pressing the two studs), take the lamp out of the way (by removing the two thumbscrews), and remove the dichroic reflector (by pressing one more stud)… then look down, towards the color filters, and see if the first filter (colorless) looks to be one piece or two…

249162

---
In any case, and assuming the absence of confirmation:

I'm considering ordering a 3mm thick IR filter (assuming I can get one…).

Does anyone know of any reason that I should avoid a thicker filter?

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Just inspect your own one. If there are clips and a recess for a filter under the shutter. As in the first foto that ic-racer shows.

Here is mine Gary:

249172

It looks exactly the same as ic-racer's in post #887

[sculptorBradP]

A little late writing here for the timeline.... Is the Durst UNIPLA lensboard the correct lens board for mounting a Schneider Componon-S 300mm f5.6 lens without any additional adaptors onto the position on a Durst Laborator G 184? I moved my whole enlarger in one piece unit Durst Laborator G 184 in the back of a Dodge Cargo Van from Chicago to Baltimore City, Maryland. Any recommendations on how to properly dismount the base, and possibly the lower heavier vertical double legs to get the two or three parts up three flights of twelve-foot ceiling floors...

, - Thanks, - Brad

[Andrea Gazzoni]

Brad, with a mount of 77mm you will need a Vapla lensboard. Lenses up to 72mm mount can go into the Unipla, but you'll need the proper Lapla adapter ring.

[ic-racer]

Agree, Vapla is the way to go.

My 360mm Componon mounts with a special flange. My 300mm Rodenstock uses it's flange as a retaining ring. Either way works.

249288

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

ic-racer:

Is your EST 2000 quiet when it's idle (between exposures, with the lamp at pre-heat mode)?

Mine emits this rather loud mid-range humming sound (not too low, and not too high a pitch).
The humming is the same regardless if I operate the EST at 1000w or 2000w.

I thought that this was "normal", up until a few days ago.
After the last time I opened the CLS head up, to take the pictures that I posted about the IR filter, when I put everything back together and turned the EST on, I was surprised to hear no sound coming out of the EST…
Then, I realized that I forgot to plug in the cable to the head…
Turned everything off, let it sit for a few minutes, then connected the head, and turned the EST on again…
The, by now familiar, humming was back…

Any thoughts?

[ic-racer]

The transformer in my EST2000N makes the usual hum I'd expect from a big transformer. It is about as loud as the hum from the lift motor which hums at rest because it is actively locked at rest.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Thank you for letting me know!

I assumed as much, up until the EST was quiet as a mouse when turned on without the head connected…

By the way, I instantly started looking for information about the cable which connects the two (as a possible suspect for the humming), and found a post of yours from 2014 with the mention of the DIN 41622.

A web search for specifications brought this up:

https://docs.rs-online.com/cddc/0900766b81524d47.pdf

The cable itself seems more than sufficient (with a 13mm diameter), but the connectors are rated at 8a??

I would have assumed that a connector/cable that powers a device which draws 2500w (which at 230v means ~10.87a) would have a higher rating…

Am I misreading something in that tech sheet?

[Conrad . Marvin]

If the connections don’t get hot, they should be fine.

[Len Middleton]

The cable itself seems more than sufficient (with a 13mm diameter), but the connectors are rated at 8a??

I would have assumed that a connector/cable that powers a device which draws 2500w (which at 230v means ~10.87a) would have a higher rating…

Am I misreading something in that tech sheet?

Contact current rating might be for continuous use, rather than intermittent use.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Conrad and Len,

Your comments provide some reassurance.

My end goal is to produce murals from 8x10 originals, in the 10x neighborhood.
I'm not ready yet to process full size prints, but have done some "stress tests" of the system with 1m long test strips at full magnification, in order to get a sense of how it performs.

Have not detected any alarming overheating yet…

Would feel much better though if I could get the EST 2000 serviced at some point, but haven't found any leads yet for anyone capable of performing such a service…

Fingers crossed…

[sculptorBradP]

Thank you, Andrea Gazzoni

[sculptorBradP]

Thank you ic-racer

[sculptorBradP]

Hello - 249753 For a Durst Laborator G 184 with a Condenser Head with two Lacon 380, using 300mm Schneider Coponon S F/5.6 & Rodenstock Rodagon 300mm f5.6 Enlarging Lens, & 360mm Schneider Coponon lenses for 8x10 inch film -

Is a Durst 1000w Opal enlarger bulb - 110 - 120 V - 1000 W, P3/19 E 27 OPALE - for 8x10 the correct wattage and Bulb Model.

I could only find the Operating Instruction pamphlet for the Durst Laborator L 184, not the earlier model Durst Laborator G 184 with a Condenser Head. The Durst Laborator L 184 Condenser Head model - appears the same as the Laborator G 184 Condenser Head model?

Included here on my question is a photo of the front info plate only mentioning 300 Watt Durst Opal bulb. Will need to get a Durst Lafan 138 blower Unit, or equivalent, and a WAHAL Heat Filter...

Thanks, - Brad

[dsphotog]

I also have a G184, I use the 300watt bulb and a blower scavenged from a Beseler 4x5 dga colorhead.

[sculptorBradP]

I also have a G184, I use the 300watt bulb and a blower scavenged from a Beseler 4x5 dga colorhead.

Hello dsphotog,

Thanks,

Do you happen to have the Durst Laborator G 184 Operating Instructions Manual? A PDF or word file copy of the version for the G 184?

I was able to find online an Operating Instructions manual for the Durst L 184, but interested in any differences there might be for the earlier generation model G 184...

, - Brad

[dsphotog]

I've only seen the L184 instructions too.

[sculptorBradP]

Hello dsphotog,

Do you use, found a Durst Heat Absorbing Filter, and Durst Heat Absorbing Filter Frame for your Durst Laborator G 184 (8x10) Condenser Head? If so, would you be able to include a photo of the filter and frame, and any Durst model name and model number?


Thanks, - Brad

[dsphotog]

It's designation is "WAHAL" the glass is in 3 parallel strips, I can't post pics but if you dm me your email I'll send some.