Durst L1840 Enlarger 8x10 10x10--Everything you wanted to know...

[frotog]

I have a durst fodes motorized focus control. Unfortunately the handheld remote controller was taken apart and a repair attempted but the former owner did not succeed. Does anyone have a schematic? There is a harness of wires attached to the connector pins but they've been disconnected at the controller and I have no way of knowing what goes where.

On a side note...I have the factory schematic for the est 1000 and est 1000n - invaluable for circuit board repairs. If anyone needs a copy PM me.

[ic-racer]

Can you post a picture of the problem areas?

[ic-racer]

A few recent Durst items.

The first is a spare power supply for the CLS2000 head. The thinking would be that if one goes bad, I can put this one into service still print while repairing the first one.

[ic-racer]

The next new is a kind gift from gary mulder for which I am very grateful.

These extension handles really are needed when the head is near the top of the column, and I'm 6' tall.

[ic-racer]

latest item is a 240mm Durst Compoon-S. The coating is pretty messed up (not mentioned on ebay ad and this still needs to be resolved).

You really need to stop it down to between f22 and f32 to get sharp at the edges, so it is not going to be my full time lens. I'll just use it when I need to do a 4x enlargement on the baseboard (40" across).

[ic-racer]

I actually have a Lapla 70mm mounting ring for the 240mm Componon to use it on the Tripla but the 240mm Componon S has TWO mounting threads. One is at the waist and the other is on the end of the rear cell. To get it on the Lapla you have to mount it by the rear cell, but the threads are different size. My lens came with a flange sized for the waist mounting location. If I wanted to mount it on that Lapla (seen in the above picture) I'd need to get another flange from Sk Grimes.

[ic-racer]

Wonder what is in the case...?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v670/ic-racer/DSCF5231.jpg

[ic-racer]

If you have priced these Thorn HX27 lamps, you will know why they are in this case :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v670/ic-racer/DSCF5234.jpg

[ic-racer]

Now I know what was in the briefcase Jules and Vincent were carrying....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v670/ic-racer/caseopen.jpg

[dsphotog]

Now I know what was in the briefcase Jules and Vincent were carrying....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v670/ic-racer/caseopen.jpg

... Now we know why they were NOT willing to allow it to be taken away!

[jimmygcreative]

has anyone purchased this new Super Efficient Halogen lamp kit from durst pro usa?

I need more light from my enlarger during 8x10 neg printing... any ideas

[ic-racer]

has anyone purchased this new Super Efficient Halogen lamp kit from durst pro usa?

I need more light from my enlarger during 8x10 neg printing... any ideas

What bulb are you currently using? Are the condensers setup per the instructions? What are your printing times, print sizes and f numbers?

[jimmygcreative]

durst 1000w FEL 120V LARBABOX 100n with oben 100box times range 120-240 sec size 42 x 80 f16

[jimmygcreative]

cls 1840 240mm lens

[ic-racer]

durst 1000w FEL 120V LARBABOX 100n with oben 100box times range 120-240 sec size 42 x 80 f16


That is 42x80 inches? If so , the times seem about right. I suspect a Rodagon-G 300 would give better edge sharpness at f11 than a 240mm at f16.

You know tha Halogen lamp at Durst Pro is for the condenser head. The condenser is more efficient at light output, but the standard bulb is lower wattage than what you currently have, so the overall light output of the condenser head is about the same as the color heads. What they did was to put a high-power halogen lamp, like the color heads have, into the condenser head.

Bottom line is that if you went that route, you need to track down a condenser head and the condensers, in addition to the cost of the halogen light source.

If it were me, I'd look for a high-magnification lens of 300 to 360mm that could then be used at f8 or f11.

[jimmygcreative]

any other ideas on more light ?? i am now shooting more 5x7 and that means I must use the bigger box and that's a joke when doing my big prints..... any ideas any one?

[gary mulder]

Are you using a Larabox 138 ?

When doing B/W a LED light from Heiland will give considerable sorter exposure times. If you can handle the price tag of that system.

[jimmygcreative]

hi, no i have only two boxes one for 4x5 the other is the larabox 100 n

[ic-racer]

LARABOX 138 (for 5x7) is claimed to give an extra 1.5 stops.

[jimmygcreative]

dnice, does anyone here have an extra one forsale?

[kpphoto]

I have been looking for one of those boxes for a couple of years....I am still holding my breath for an EST1000n for a CLS 1840....Does anyone have some leads here?

I lucked out and recently won a vg condition Nega 205 ($52) from eBay seller newvisionphoto. He had 4! He may have 1 or 2 as of April 2011. He has other Durst enlarger bits for 810 and smaller...and lenses.

[urs100]

Hi,
I was very lucky to get a Durst 2501 AF horizontal enlarger FOR FREE when a lab near by closed down their analogue production.

They also gave me a whole bunch of equipment/spare parts but the two parts I am looking for for years (the LARADAP as well as the TRIGRAFI 66) unfortunately were not among them.

Now I thought, maybe someone of you out there might own the LARADAP and/or TRIGRAFI 66 without using them and could be interested in exchanging them to other parts like the following:

- Three masks for 6x6cm, 6x7cm and 4.5x6 cm
- One HOTUB 2500
- One VAPLA, incl. red filter, three connection rings, one fitting the enclosed Rodenstock Rodagon 6.8/360mm
- One original package (WITHOUT CONTENT!) of the COLAMP 2000N (for collectors, maybe)
- Two REGLAS 205, clear, nearly new
- Two REGLAS 205 AN, few minor scratches
- Finally two glasses 24x30cm, 5mm thick, do not fit the Durst, maybe the belong to a DeVere vertical enlarger.

Anybody interested? I can email pictures.
Regards
Claus

PS I am also very much interested in the circuits of the 2501, in case of an electronic problem.

[Ed Linse]

Hi there, I´m new to this Forum and quite new to the Durst L1300 / L1000 that I have. It seems to have just developed a problem in a circuit board in the big power box underneath. At first I thought it was the transformer, as the power went out and there was an electrical burning smell. However the electrician and I traced it to a circuit board on opening it , as the one heat sink was far too hot (The one at the back in the 3rd Photo). I will post a couple of pictures and would be very glad to hear from anyone with experience of circuit board related problems with this enlarger or the 1840 which is virtually the same.
Many Thanks
Ed

[ic-racer]

Can you be more specific as to what is wrong? Is it totally kaput? Do the numbers on the ECU1000 control panel light up? Does the timer work? Does it focus? Does the head move up and down? Have you checked the fuses? Some of those power resistors and heat sinks are very hot normally when running.

Report back and we can zero in on the problem. There are about 20 schematics for that unit, so knowing which schematic you need will save a lot of circuit tracing.

[Ed Linse]

Thanks ic-racer for the quick response. My darkroom is a 5 minute walk away, so I will go and check up on the questions you asked me and get back to you with further info shortly.
I doubt it is totally Kaputt as the original owner, a photographer friend from Berlin was over a month ago to set it up and it worked fine. Neither he nor I are experienced with electronics however, so it was nice to read some of your previous threads to start getting into the spirit, and not despair as I did at first.
I thought it was the timing unit at first yeterday, as I had fixed a loose contact there previously. However the power unit started smelling, so I switched the power off and opened it. When I switched it on this morning with the electrician, the one heatsink got so hot it could have nearly burnt you and smelled, so I´m guessing that´s too hot.
I will take a clearer picture of the heatsink too and circle it. so hopefully it will make it, easier to locate the right schematic, presuming that is the source of the problem.
As its sunday today I can´t get anyone who has clue with electronics to look at it, however if I can get a bit further today, hopefully I can find someone who can trace the problem tomorrow.
The good thing is it got me in touch with this forum through some desparate googling and a post from Claus in Berlin that you helped a couple of years back, so I am looking forward to getting this sorted and printing, now that I sorted out the teathing troubles with my old Colenta 110 processor.
Thanks for the help I will be back after checking, to answer your questions shortly
Ed
Ed

[Ed Linse]

Hi ic-racer, I hope the Photos and following info help to narrow things down.
All the fuses on the power unit are intact.
When I switch the enlarger on it makes the normal motor clicking from the colour head, and switches the lamp on. Power also reaches the timing consol. However the lamps on the consol flicker and the operating buttons for the timer and the head adjustment and focus don´t work. Neither do the exposure buttons, it as if it is just not receiving consistent power.
Inside the primary power box, the Heatsink photographed heats up fast and starts smelling and is attached to a chip labeled IC1 on the circuit. The Board is labelled "Durst Electronics LP3 Verteilerplatte Zn Nr. Ac 81.520.1B" on the other side of the board is a very small cylindrical black (Transistor?) about 8mm long with ZY written on it. The chip itself has writing on it that I was able to make out with the help of a well positioned mirror:
046
LM34OT15
7815
from top to bottom in that arrangement.
Other than that the last picture is of some apparent switching mechanism in the Power box which clicks on and off erratically and audibly when the power is switched on. A black mechanism moves visably within it back and forward whilst doing this.
Excuse the longwinded description but as said I am a novice to electronics and hope I have managed to give some information which makes sense.
Let me know how you think best to proceed and if you have the schematics for this board. I am happy to conduct further tests but lack proper equipment and knowledge but will take all information and questions to the guy from the computer repair shop around the corner in the morning and get him to take a look. If he can´t help then I´ll find someone who can, but there won´t be anyone in the UK who has direct experience of this enlarger so all assistance on this forum is a Godsend.
Thanks
Ed

[Ed Linse]

Photos are missing somehow I´ll attatch them again in a moment

[Ed Linse]

I Hope the photos are attached now58303

58304

58305

58306

[ic-racer]

Ok, if you have not tackled a job like this, have your friend look it over. I'll email you the repair manual and schematic for that board.

Ic1 is a 15v regulator. Measuring point M1 on that board should read 15V. I'd probably replace that before turning it on any more. Best case is that a new IC will fix it. Worse if there is a short downstream leading to overloaded current through the IC.

If you want to have it fixed professionally, there may be some place in Europe that can do it. Maybe Gary M knows. In the States we have one repair facility.

[Ed Linse]

Thanks in advance for the schematic, It would be great if perhaps unlikely if anyone knows someone in the UK who does repairs.
I will let you know if I get any joy tomorrow. Thanks for the technical info as at least I know the first step to take.
I´ll also contact Gary M to see if he knows a professional over here

[gary mulder]

To test if the problem is really in the Verteilerplatte remove all connectors from the box. Remove LP1 motorregler 24v board and LP2 motorregler 220 board. Connect a multimeter to M0 and M1 with alligator clips and power the thing up. Not longer than needed to get a stable reading on the multimeter. If it reads 15 volt turn it on longer and see if the problems still exist. If it does not heat up in a problematic way. Start reconnecting the parts one by one until you get the part that has a problem. Do not hot plug parts. Power down when connecting the next part.

[ic-racer]

Durst electrical service in the UK:
http://www.northernphoto.co.uk/

[cyrus]

I am trying to figure out how to center 4x5 & MF negs on my CLS 1840. The lamphouse has a built-in masking mechanism so I guess I really don't even need a mask as much as a way to perfectly center a negative on the glass carrier (especially MF) so as to get the neg at the center of the light/lens. If I make a mask I'll still need to know where to cut the hole. I can roughly guess where the negative frame should go but then I have to fiddle around with moving the negative and straightening it out. Not only is that a pain, I really don't like pulling out the glass neg holder so often (eventually, I'm going to drop it. I just know it.) THere's got to be an easier way (and no, I can't find a Sivfembonippytick adaptor from Durst that no doubt is required) If the hole for the masks is supposed to be in the dead center of the negative holder, that would make things easier to cut out. Is it?

[quine]

I don't know about the 184, but on the 138, you can slide the negative carrier around in the head until it's centered on the masking strips -- you just need to pop the locking tabs out of their sockets...

Cheers,

-andrew

[ic-racer]

Durst or any enlarger, this is how I center:

I have a card with an "X" going through the center. There is an outline of the laser alignment tool such that the laser beam is centered on the "X".

The laser is placed under the lens and the circular diffraction pattern is centered, indicating the laser is exactly at the center of the lens. Now there is a card on the basenbaord with an "X" that I use to make sure the light box is centered. Last step is to center the negative or mask or carrier.

[ic-racer]

With the Negateil negative stage, my masks were cut to be exactly centered on the lens, then the negative shifts in two planes to center it on the mask using the controls on the Negateil.

[cyrus]

Thanks all. Gary Mulder tells me that the holes in the masks he posted in a previous message are all centered. So using the black plastic bags that Ilford paper comes in, I cut out a couple of 4x5 and 6x7 masks. Hopefully, this material won't melt.

[mups]

Hello. After not using my CLS 2000 for a few of years, I fired it up again and the pre-heating of the bulb doesn't work anymore, when I'm pretty sure it did, back then. Incidently, the two green and red leds (1000-2000w) on the front of the power supply don't light up anymore (if they ever have...). Does anyone have an idea ?
Inside, I see 3 identical relays switches that control the fan (bottom) and the shutter (middle), but the top one doesn't move, wether the PS is set for 1000 or 2000W. I tried pushing it but it didn't have any effect.
While I'm at it I'm looking for the instruction and service manual for the head and for the schematic of the PS...
Thanks.

[ic-racer]

How are you determining that there is no pre-heating? Measuring the voltage across the bulb at rest?

[urs100]

Hi,

I own a HL 2501 AF and am wondering about maintenance/lubrication for the whole machine, especially regarding the light head and the base movement mechanics.

As far as I know, the light source is quit comparable to the CLS 2000, at least in terms of the mechanics, that is why I post my question in this thread.

Does anyone of you have information (maybe a durst service manual) regarding maintenance on a CLS 2000 (filter, shutter...) or even a HL 2501 AF?

I am especially interested in which parts NEED regular lubrication and which ones MUST NEVER GET lubrication.

Best
Claus

[ic-racer]

Member "langedp" at APUG has a 2501: http://www.apug.org/forums/viewpost.php?p=593629

I have both the Service and User's manuals for the CLS 2000 and neither has any mention of mechanical maintenance required. The CLS 1840 column needs to be lubricated.

[cyrus]

Member "langedp" at APUG has a 2501: http://www.apug.org/forums/viewpost.php?p=593629

I have both the Service and User's manuals for the CLS 2000 and neither has any mention of mechanical maintenance required. The CLS 1840 column needs to be lubricated.

Can I have a copy of these?
Lubing the 1840 is really just slapping some grease on and moving it up and down a couple of times.

[cyrus]

FYI an ebay seller has an interesting chart (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Durst-450-LARABOX-CLS-1840-2000-Light-Mixing-Box-/150663529182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23143f02de)showing the effects of various format mixing boxes, but I can't really understand it. It seems to suggest that using the right format box increases brightness by about 2 stops on average?

[ic-racer]

FYI an ebay seller has an interesting chart (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Durst-450-LARABOX-CLS-1840-2000-Light-Mixing-Box-/150663529182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23143f02de)showing the effects of various format mixing boxes, but I can't really understand it. It seems to suggest that using the right format box increases brightness by about 2 stops on average?

I that chart is from the L1840 brochure. I can send you the PDF with the shop manual.

The greatest gain is going from the 10x10" mixing box to the 35mm mixing box (3 and one third-stops gain). The least gain is going from the 10x10" mixing box to the 8x10" mixing box (one-third stop gain)

The owner's manual and lube instructions are here (http://manuelsphoto.free.fr/). Basically you squirt the oil in the two little tubes (slap it on??).

[Scott Walker]

I discovered today after many hours of frustration over stupid newton rings that if you take all the hardware off of the Durst negative carrier that holds the glass in place a Beseler 8x10 negflat glassless carrier fits in perfectly. It fits so well even the screws that hold the clips in place screw in to clamp the Beseler carrier in place. It sits on the machined surface for the screws so it is true to the surface of the Durst carrier. :D

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg90/Beecool/IMG_1255.jpg

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg90/Beecool/IMG_1254.jpg

[ic-racer]

Nice fit!

[kpphoto]

Yes very nice.
I have the 4x5...never knew there was an 8x10!!! Where would one find one of these?
Is there a 5x7?

[Scott Walker]

Yes very nice.
I have the 4x5...never knew there was an 8x10!!! Where would one find one of these?
Is there a 5x7?

I have never heard of a 5x7 but that does not mean there isn't one.

I am going to do my best to find out where to get another 8x10 carrier since my Beseler is now without one. :)

Fortunately for me the Beseler enlarger is really just a convenience and can be lived without until I find another negative carrier.

Buying a complete conversion might be the way to go then resell it without the carrier. The Beseler can be used either with a glass carrier or with the glassless one.

[Allen in Montreal]

Nice discovery.
Man that Grane is clean, it looks almost new.



I discovered today after many hours of frustration over stupid newton rings that if you take all the hardware off of the Durst negative carrier that holds the glass in place a Beseler 8x10 negflat glassless carrier fits in perfectly. It fits so well even the screws that hold the clips in place screw in to clamp the Beseler carrier in place. It sits on the machined surface for the screws so it is true to the surface of the Durst carrier. :D

[Xenosb]

Hi,
I have Durst enlarger and I need a new bulb for it because this one broke down. Bulb has hollow interior and is air cooled. I am searching for the bulb model for a few days now and i can't find nothing that even looks alike. So maybe you can help me?
I tried some other high power bulbs but all of them have heating problems. So cool bulb is in the enlarger now and the exposure times are about 20'. Ain't that great? :sarcasm:

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/6854/imag0049zl.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/838/imag0049zl.jpg/)
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/3986/imag0048c.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/imag0048c.jpg/)
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/1288/imag0046no.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/837/imag0046no.jpg/)
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/3030/imag0045c.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/837/imag0045c.jpg/)

[ic-racer]

What kind of head is that bulb in? Can we see a picture of the head and maybe identify it? The interior shot you show does not look like any 8x10 or 10x10 head I have ever seen. It almost looks like someone has suspended a socket in a 10x10 Larabox.

[Bob Mann]

Yes very nice.
I have the 4x5...never knew there was an 8x10!!! Where would one find one of these?
Is there a 5x7?

Yes, they made a 5x7 negaflat carrier - I have one. It looks just like the 4x5 model.

[carl_luxlab]

I love this post. So much great info here. Just got a Laborator and 1840 with a couple lenses, mixing boxes, carriers, vacuum easels and the head extension rod to bring the head far enough out to shoot vertically on to 50 inch wide paper. Will post images soon. Can't wait to print some negs in cold storage from the 80's. Wish I had pics of us rolling a dolly with the frame down a busy Manhattan street. We barely made it, and it just fit in the elevator.

[Kimberly Anderson]

I love this post. So much great info here. Just got a Laborator and 1840 with a couple lenses, mixing boxes, carriers, vacuum easels and the head extension rod to bring the head far enough out to shoot vertically on to 50 inch wide paper. Will post images soon. Can't wait to print some negs in cold storage from the 80's. Wish I had pics of us rolling a dolly with the frame down a busy Manhattan street. We barely made it, and it just fit in the elevator.

Super-congrats! Pics! :D

[ic-racer]

I love this post. So much great info here. Just got a Laborator and 1840 with a couple lenses, mixing boxes, carriers, vacuum easels and the head extension rod to bring the head far enough out to shoot vertically on to 50 inch wide paper. Will post images soon. Can't wait to print some negs in cold storage from the 80's. Wish I had pics of us rolling a dolly with the frame down a busy Manhattan street. We barely made it, and it just fit in the elevator.

Good work!

[Allen in Montreal]

I love this post. So much great info here. Just got a Laborator and 1840 with a couple lenses, mixing boxes, carriers, vacuum easels and the head extension rod to bring the head far enough out to shoot vertically on to 50 inch wide paper. Will post images soon. Can't wait to print some negs in cold storage from the 80's. Wish I had pics of us rolling a dolly with the frame down a busy Manhattan street. We barely made it, and it just fit in the elevator.

Congrats!
Looking forward to pix when you have her all setup! :)

[kpphoto]

It must have been one H*## of an elevator...
Yes pics soon please.

[Curt]

Yes, they made a 5x7 negaflat carrier - I have one. It looks just like the 4x5 model.

I have the 4x5 Negaflat and also a very rare "Zipper" 5x7" glassless carrier. Same idea as the Negaflat but a different design. For one thing it doesn't scratch the negative edge like the Negaflat.

[Curt]

Note that most Tripla's have alignment issues. I have tested 5 examples before getting a decent one. That is why on the autofocus durst's the rotating lens panels run on ball bearings. Putting large and heavy lenses on a Tripla does not make it better.

I know this thread has old comments but I want to comment on the alignment of Tripla's. My Tripla is fixed, removable by taking a nut and washers off, but considered fixed. Upon inspection and after a lot of searching I came to the conclusion that indeed wear from rotation is inevitable. Between gravity and unequally spaced weights, lenses, plus any manufacturing variations, I would think constant alignment checks and attempts to correct a fixed system fruitless.

I know the only way I can use my 240mm Rodagon would be a custom adapter. The same is true for my EL Nikkor 150. Since these adapters mount to the Tripla directly there is no way to adjust for runout or sag or slop in the revolving turret. That's a lot of work and money for a non adjustable setup.

An adjustable three point double plate lens board like the CPM/Delta Bes-Align or similar custom setup is needed. I can see the beauty of the turret method, especially in a production lab, however the home user doesn't have the resources to check, change, and replace turrets at will.

"Did you know that any enlarging lens would deliver the highest resolution full open? That is; it will produce the sharpest print on the maximum f-stop for the lens in question, for a 150mm Rodagon that would be f 5.6."

The stipulation is the alignment of the negative plane, the lens, and the baseboard must be critically adjusted. The solution is the "PROLA". Unfortunately it does not fit the Durst 138s enlarger.

[Len Middleton]

Curt,

Is your solution a much simpler and fixed UNIPLA adapter board? Nothing moves except the hold down screw for the lensboards.

That is what i have on mine.

Sorry if that is a blinding flash of the obvious and you know about it.

regards,

Len

[ic-racer]

will.

"Did you know that any enlarging lens would deliver the highest resolution full open? That is; it will produce the sharpest print on the maximum f-stop for the lens in question, for a 150mm Rodagon that would be f 5.6."

The stipulation is the alignment of the negative plane, the lens, and the baseboard must be critically adjusted. The solution is the "PROLA". Unfortunately it does not fit the Durst 138s enlarger.

Not sure where that quote comes from, but in terms of diffraction it is certainly correct. However, in terms of aberrations at the edges of the image circle and contrast, the statement is not true. Contrast is least when wide open. One advantage of MTF comparisons, rather than lines per millimeter (is that what he means by 'resolution' in the above quote?) is that MTF takes the changes in contrast into account. Therefore if you look at the MTF curve for a typical enlarging lens you will see that the MTF performance is frequently much better when stopped down a few stops. Even at the center of the field where aberrations are minimal.
For example look at this MTF. You will see that at the center it goes from about 45% to 65% when stopped down. This is primarily a result of increased contrast. Of course the edges improve quite a bit also when stopped down as expected.
85412

[Drew Wiley]

I've never heard of any enlgr lens intended to be used wide open. Even the extremely expensive Apo El Nikkors are specified two stops down. Sometimes I do use extra long
lenses relative to format wide open and get superb results, just because I'm utilizing only the center of the optics - for example, a 150m Apo Rodagon N for 6x9 roll film, or a 105 for 35mm. And this assumes everything perfectly calibrated and level. But for general use,
enlarger lenses used wide open suffer from both excessive illumination falloff and from lack
of focus precision toward the perimeter of the intended field of coverage. This is esp true
of faster lenses. My Apo Nikkor process lenses have are slower, and reach optimum sharpness from f11 to f16, though there will be only minor loss to diffaction stopped further
down. Most ordinary f5.6 enlarger lenses come into the specified performance range around
f8 to f11.

[Curt]

Not sure where that quote comes from, but in terms of diffraction it is certainly correct. However, in terms of aberrations at the edges of the image circle and contrast, the statement is not true. Contrast is least when wide open. One advantage of MTF comparisons, rather than lines per millimeter (is that what he means by 'resolution' in the above quote?) is that MTF takes the changes in contrast into account. Therefore if you look at the MTF curve for a typical enlarging lens you will see that the MTF performance is frequently much better when stopped down a few stops. Even at the center of the field where aberrations are minimal.
For example look at this MTF. You will see that at the center it goes from about 45% to 65% when stopped down. This is primarily a result of increased contrast. Of course the edges improve quite a bit also when stopped down as expected.
85412

http://www.durst-pro-usa.com/resources.php?tab=5#TabbedPanels1

Lesson #5

[Curt]

Curt,

Is your solution a much simpler and fixed UNIPLA adapter board? Nothing moves except the hold down screw for the lensboards.

That is what i have on mine.

Sorry if that is a blinding flash of the obvious and you know about it.

regards,

Len

Hi Len, I don't know what your adapter is like, I'd love to see a picture of it, is it on a 138s? I've not seen a "Unipla Adapter board" but I would consider one if available for my enlarger. The reasoning behind the Durst statement about wide open lenses was in reference to alignment. That people often stop down beyond the "sweet" spot because the enlarger is out of alignment. These are the best enlargers in my opinion but the 138s was an earlier model and has an issue with the turret setup. I'm looking for a solution and the first step was to recognize the problem.

This is the best thread on this site for me. Thank you!

[Drew Wiley]

Curt - that link runs completely contrary to the actual factory data sheets that Jens once
posted on that same site. That's in case you think that everything that gets posted on the
web is some kind of hard fact, which obviously isn't the case. I worked with way too many
enlgr lenses for way too many applications to fall for that kind of notion. But as I already
noted, there are a few times I will use lenses wide open, but only when they're either much
longer than the "normal" prescribed focal length, or I deliberately want to introduce falloff
in the corners.

[Curt]

Curt - that link runs completely contrary to the actual factory data sheets that Jens once
posted on that same site. That's in case you think that everything that gets posted on the
web is some kind of hard fact, which obviously isn't the case. I worked with way too many
enlgr lenses for way too many applications to fall for that kind of notion. But as I already
noted, there are a few times I will use lenses wide open, but only when they're either much
longer than the "normal" prescribed focal length, or I deliberately want to introduce falloff
in the corners.


Stop the turnip truck! I'm not disagreeing with you guys. I have always stopped down my enlarging lenses. I do appreciate the light focussed on this quote from a site by the premier authority on this equipment. Before I spend any time and money on accessories my intention is to bring out these subjects and examine them.

No I don't believe everything I read and "On the Internet everyone is an expert". Quote by Per Volquartz.

[Len Middleton]

Hi Len, I don't know what your adapter is like, I'd love to see a picture of it, is it on a 138s?

Curt,

It is on a L184 10x10 condenser enlarger. Sort of like a third of your TRIPLA, but without the go-around bits:
85450

Simple and effective.

Hope that helps,

Len

[Curt]

I do know about that one Len, I thought you had one on a 138s but that's ok. Thanks for the picture.

[Curt]

This is an iPhone photo of the underside. There is a generous oblong opening in it. It appears to have six screws that hold the receiver for the Tripla, not shown installed of course to get this view. I put a sheet of cardboard in place of the negative carrier to eliminate a reflection and show the opening better. I don't know if you can see it but the Tripla or something on it made a scratch in the back right in the flange or back skirt. I just wanted to show what the setup looks like on this model. When the Tripla turret is screwed to the bottom and the nut is attached to the bolt in the center it becomes a fixed Tripla.

[ic-racer]

So, getting back to Curt's original post. As we can see, Curt's enlarger has a fixed turret, it is not removable like the later model Durst enlargers. So, lets get back to the original problems. 1) Poor alignment and 2) Inability to mount some lenses easily

In terms of Poor Alignment, I would ask how you are checking it and how far off do you think it is? I know on my enlarger it may be possible to adjust the entire lens stage at the area where the focusing gears mesh with the stabilizing rods.

In terms of lenses, I concentrate on finding good examples of the original DURST branded Schneider Componon lenses that fit the enlarger and not use any oddball lenses, even if you already own them. It will likely be more trouble than it is worth, especially since enlarger lenses are pretty inexpensive these days.

[neil poulsen]

. . . An additional note on the range of the Rodagon. As you may know, there is a point where an enlarging lens can no longer form an image. With the 300mm Rodagon, this point is just below the 1:1 magnification level. I tried to do some 1:1 prints and the focusing at this level is very strange. It is difficult to get it in focus, because it is right on the verge of the point where focusing is not possible. I was able to make some 8x10 prints, but compared to contacts, they were clearly inferior. This does show me that to make 1:1 prints, a process lens would be superior.

On rare occasions, a 240mm Apo-Rodagon process lens shows up on EBay. Made in about the 60's (I'm told), its optimum magnification is 3:1 to 1:3. It' optimum aperture is f16. It was made to have a wider field than a standard Apo Ronar. These lenses were also made in a 300mm and 360mm focal length.

[Curt]

It would take some time to list my enlarging lenses. In the way back I bought them new and still have those. I have a Rodagon 240 mm that's excellent, a Rodagon 150 mm in a Durst cone, an Apo-Gerogon 210 mm f9 that fits in the same cone but is a process lens and not suited for enlarging, a Componon 180 mm f5.6 enlarging lens with no click stops, the silver body type. EL Nikkor 150 mm 53 mm flange, EL Nikkor 105, 75, 50. Componon 75 mm, 50 mm. Apo Nikkor 360 mm, 300 mm. And others...

My intention was to use the 240, a 150, and a 105 or 75 for 5x7, 4x5, medium format sizes respective. I have a glass negative carrier that's new. It was designed by a company for the Durst enlarger. It has small diameter stainless steel rollers and an additional partial lift system for what appears to be five inch arial roll film. It's heavy but precise. It was intended to be used with the enlargers built in masking and mine works 100%

I have a very clean lightly used 138s condenser head with two 240 condensers. The bellows is clean and in great condition. Everything is intact and working as it should.

[Curt]

So, getting back to Curt's original post. As we can see, Curt's enlarger has a fixed turret, it is not removable like the later model Durst enlargers. So, lets get back to the original problems. 1) Poor alignment and 2) Inability to mount some lenses easily

In terms of Poor Alignment, I would ask how you are checking it and how far off do you think it is? I know on my enlarger it may be possible to adjust the entire lens stage at the area where the focusing gears mesh with the stabilizing rods.

In terms of lenses, I concentrate on finding good examples of the original DURST branded Schneider Componon lenses that fit the enlarger and not use any oddball lenses, even if you already own them. It will likely be more trouble thhan it is worth, especially since enlarger lenses are pretty inexpensive these days.

Here's my latest update. There is no solution other than replace the entire lens stage. With the early design of the fixed Tripla I'm cooked on that one, at least in the lens mounting area.

If I wanted to break from the original design I could go rouge and design something on my own. Bring me your designs. I haven't tried but I think the six screws are all that holds the tripla holder works on.

Live update: I just went up and examined the areas of interest. The lens stage. The six screws hold the lower bellows on. The lens stage is a machined one piece part. I can see how it's removed. Besides the six bellows mounting screws there is one point of attachment. It's at the rear where the one piece lens stage is round. That round projection is fastened from behind so it can rotate giving the tilt feature to the lens. The degree pointer is also attached and a permanent machined slot for the zero detent. The lens stage is a separate piece in the lens focus mechanics.

A new lens stage could be machined and welded from aluminum plate and a short piece of thick walled tubing and any design for lens mounting would be possible. An adjustable lens mount with any shape boards. It's a fair amount of machine work and design. In my case I'm probably going to keep the original equipment as is and work at getting the 240 mounted to a disk for the Tripla.

I'm not even sure I want to invest the money in an adapter. I'll make one.
That's aprox. where I am now. I thought it might be a bit easier but like most things it's often not.

[ic-racer]

Not sure I still understand the initial problem. Is the Tripla wobbly? Or is it just out of alignment?
Also, is this an 8x10 conversion? What are using the 240mm lens for?
I'd think the Apo-Gerogon 210 mm would be great for 5x7 enlarging, what kind of trouble was it giving?

[Curt]

The fixed Tripla is older, worn, and not adjustable. Its design predisposes it to misalignment without a built in correction.

It's not an 8x10 conversion though I was heading in that direction at one time when I bought the 240 mm but not now.

The 240mm is the largest lens recommended for 5x7 and is on the enlarger heads specification chart. (240 mm lens with top condenser 240 and bottom condenser 240.) I know it also covers 8x10.

The 210mm Apo-Gerogon; it's a barrel process lens with a maximum aperture of f9. It fits in a 50 mm Durst extended cone adapter which I have. Focussing would be dark compared to 5.6 enlarging lenses. There are no aperture click stops and no lighted dial. I can't find any lens specifications on the Rodinstock home site, the only information is anecdotal Internet quality and a Wiki link that indicates the source was ad like. My search was all variations of: rodenstock apo- gerogon 210mm.

The Schneider Componon 180 f5.6 isn't an "S" and is the older chrome barrel with no click stops and that vintage didn't have a lighted dial.

[gary mulder]

The fixed Tripla is older, worn, and not adjustable. Its design predisposes it to misalignment without a built in correction.

It's not an 8x10 conversion though I was heading in that direction at one time when I bought the 240 mm but not now.

The 240mm is the largest lens recommended for 5x7 and is on the enlarger heads specification chart. (240 mm lens with top condenser 240 and bottom condenser 240.) I know it also covers 8x10.

The 210mm Apo-Gerogon; it's a barrel process lens with a maximum aperture of f9. It fits in a 50 mm Durst extended cone adapter which I have. Focussing would be dark compared to 5.6 enlarging lenses. There are no aperture click stops and no lighted dial. I can't find any lens specifications on the Rodinstock home site, the only information is anecdotal Internet quality and a Wiki link that indicates the source was ad like. My search was all variations of: rodenstock apo- gerogon 210mm.

The Schneider Componon 180 f5.6 isn't an "S" and is the older chrome barrel with no click stops and that vintage didn't have a lighted dial.

If it was mine I would just put some bolts through it and fix the rotating part. Maybe some shims. Giving up the rotating feature and gaining precision.

[ic-racer]

The 210mm Apo-Gerogon; it's a barrel process lens with a maximum aperture of f9. It fits in a 50 mm Durst extended cone adapter which I have. Focussing would be dark compared to 5.6 enlarging lenses. There are no aperture click stops and no lighted dial. I can't find any lens specifications on the Rodinstock home site, the only information is anecdotal Internet quality and a Wiki link that indicates the source was ad like. My search was all variations of: rodenstock apo- gerogon 210mm.


"APO-GEROGON / APO-GEROGON S / APO-GRAPHIGON: These lens systems are designed for use in compact process cameras where the short original-to-film distance calls for wide angles of coverage. Angles vary from 70° to 78°, with reproduction scale ranges from 1:5 / 1:1 to 1:3 / 3:1."
Seems like that would make an excellent enlarging lens.

[Curt]

Since the 210 mm Apo-Gerogon fits in the same adapter as the 150 mm Rodagon I can put it in at any time and see how good it is. I found and mounted my 150 El Nikkor in a 53 mm adapter. A custom adapter would have been expensive.

[EdSawyer]

"Apo El Nikkors are specified two stops down"

Actually Drew these are spec'ed as being best wide-open. I recall reading that from more than one source, including Nikon's own brochure.

Usually 1 stop down is the best for most enlarging lenses, sometimes even less than that. Ctein had some data on that in his Post Exposure book.

[Drew Wiley]

Ed - depends what you were doing. I have the brochures, and there was a bit of evolution
within the Apo El Nikkor series. Remember, they were pushing the 105 for 35mm film use,
even though it was suitable for larger formats; but the ideal aperture would change relative to format. Largely overkill, however. Ordinary Apo Nikkors are ridiculously sharp and true apo if you don't need the extra speed. And contrary to the traditional lore, they top out around f/ll (not f/22). I sometimes use relatively long enlgr lenses
wide open for small format - a trick which would be less than ideal for the "normally" recommended diagonal. Apo El's are still being mfg, but only fixed aperture for industrial
applications. Mitutoyo has some similar offerings. I've done mtns of enlgr lens testing
myself - don't need second-hand opinions. But can't afford (and don't need) an Apo El.
Some of them are just damn heavy anyway and would deflect the lensboard on the typical
enlarger.

[coisasdavida]

it's a barrel process lens with a maximum aperture of f9. It fits in a 50 mm Durst extended cone adapter which I have. Focussing would be dark compared to 5.6 enlarging lenses.

I use a Repromaster 210mm/9 to enlarge 8x10" negatives. My homemade enlarger (a Durst M800 modification) has a dim light source. Even like this I find it rather easy to focus.
Before this lens I tried a JML 210mm/9, this one gave me trouble focusing. Later, when I got the Repromaster I figured it was because wide open the JML lens was not so good as the Repromaster. Changing lens and trying to focus the same negative was a big surprise. And all I have is a cheap grain focuser.

I own two different types of Repromasters. One is the smaller one, only with f/22 engraved on the aperture ring. The other is bigger with all the apertures engraved (looks more serious, better construction). I use the cheap looking one in the enlarger, with a locking nut it fits the Durst 77mm ring I have for a 150mm/5.6, it is amazing!

[swmcl]

Hi,

Can I have some advice as to what carrier to get for a Durst L184 condenser enlarger please ?

I have measured 38cm total width, 33cm inside the tracks on the left and right 9mm wide tracks extending some 19cm into the enlarger. The tracks are around 2mm deep.

What are my options ?

Cheers,

Steve

[ic-racer]

Hi,

Can I have some advice as to what carrier to get for a Durst L184 condenser enlarger please ?

I have measured 38cm total width, 33cm inside the tracks on the left and right 9mm wide tracks extending some 19cm into the enlarger. The tracks are around 2mm deep.

What are my options ?

Cheers,

Steve

Seems like , you may have the Grahalon locating frame which takes the Grane 205 carrier.

112790

Though you could also remove the Grahalon locating frame and then the enlarger would accept the more common Nega 205 carrier pictured below:
112791
(L184 owners chime in here if you have additional details about these carriers)

[Drew Wiley]

The Grahalon was the early version of a pin-registered frame for things like dye transfer printing. It has little relation to ordinary printing. I'm potentially looking for one, if it's in very good shape. Otherwise, I'll make my own.

[SYSTEM69]

I scanned my L1840 Owner's Manual into a PDF file that I would like to distribute to all Durst owners, or potential owners, that don't have one.

I'd just post it here but the file is just over 6MB. Please PM me and I will send it out.

Dear sir ,
I'm French and looking for this type of documents to complete my technical understanding of DURST L1840...
Thank you very much for your help.
My mail: fig3@orange.fr
Best regards. / Eduardo (FRANCE)

[ic-racer]

Dear sir ,
I'm French and looking for this type of documents to complete my technical understanding of DURST L1840...
Thank you very much for your help.
My mail: fig3@orange.fr
Best regards. / Eduardo (FRANCE)

The manual is hosted on a French site here: http://manuelsphoto.free.fr/durst_l1840_operatingmanual.pdf

[Degroto]

Since picking up my Durst L184 I have finally a place where I can put it up and start using it. :D Can't wait to try it out and if the 305 enlarger head can actually handle 8x10 inch negatives.

[ic-racer]

Since picking up my Durst L184 I have finally a place where I can put it up and start using it. :D Can't wait to try it out and if the 305 enlarger head can actually handle 8x10 inch negatives.

Is this followup from this 2011 thread? ( http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?78351-Durst-184-enlarger&p=751071 )
If so I congratulate you on your persistence. Have you had a chance to see if the CLS301 turns on?

[swmcl]

Hello to all,

Can I ask for a scan of any power supply schematics please? Particularly the 'voltage stabiliser' unit if possible.

I'm seeking to understand how the power is delivered to the lamps on any large scale enlarger really but L138 or L184 circuitry is a good place to start.

I would also appreciate a description of the functionality if you are this way inclined ....

Cheers,

Steve

[ic-racer]

Hello to all,

Can I ask for a scan of any power supply schematics please? Particularly the 'voltage stabiliser' unit if possible.

I'm seeking to understand how the power is delivered to the lamps on any large scale enlarger really but L138 or L184 circuitry is a good place to start.

I would also appreciate a description of the functionality if you are this way inclined ....

Cheers,

Steve

The condenser heads for L138 and L184 run the lamps right off the power mains.

The dichroic lamps used in the CLS300 and CLS1840 and CLS2000 heads have regulated power supplies.
The general function of the EST1000N for the CLS1840 head is as follows:
Lamp voltage is sensed by a true RMS converter which outputs to a comparator. The comparator has an adjustable nominal value on the other side. The output of this comparator goes to a couple transistors which set the pulse width for the thyristors that control the lamp. This is a little different from the power supply of the Omega D5500. In that one the comparator voltage difference sets the pulse time using a 555 timing IC.

[swmcl]

So the overall aim of the CLS1840 power supply is to produce a somewhat regulated RMS voltage (and hence power to a stable resistive load) ?

Are there some big LC filters in there ? In other words, how dc is the supply to the lamps?

I know there are later Durst enlargers with dc supplies but they are smaller units. Are you saying the CLS300, 1840 and 2000 are regulated dc psu's ? At what power?

A little question to enlarge my understanding ... what is the range of variation on the lamps and why the variation? Was it to just trim the lamp output a little (say + or - half a stop) or was it to make more drastic variations? I would've thought the colour of the light would change if the variation was too extreme. Perhaps the circuit you describe isn't adjustable but just varies to account for line voltage changes ?

I'm also a bit concerned with chopped waveforms myself...

Thanks so far!

Cheers,

Steve

Cheers,

Steve

[Degroto]

Is this followup from this 2011 thread? ( http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?78351-Durst-184-enlarger&p=751071 )
If so I congratulate you on your persistence. Have you had a chance to see if the CLS301 turns on?

Indeed it is. I'll post an updat in there as well :)

[ic-racer]

So the overall aim of the CLS1840 power supply is to produce a somewhat regulated RMS voltage (and hence power to a stable resistive load) ?

Are there some big LC filters in there ? In other words, how dc is the supply to the lamps?

I know there are later Durst enlargers with dc supplies but they are smaller units. Are you saying the CLS300, 1840 and 2000 are regulated dc psu's ? At what power?

A little question to enlarge my understanding ... what is the range of variation on the lamps and why the variation? Was it to just trim the lamp output a little (say + or - half a stop) or was it to make more drastic variations? I would've thought the colour of the light would change if the variation was too extreme. Perhaps the circuit you describe isn't adjustable but just varies to account for line voltage changes ?

I'm also a bit concerned with chopped waveforms myself...

Thanks so far!

Cheers,

Steve

Cheers,

Steve

Technically the lamp is powered by AC, not DC. The AC pulse is not the sine-wave from the mains, but a chopped up pulse from the Thyrisors. Kind of related to "Switching" power supplies and Pulse-wave modulated LED dimmer circuits. So, no, it is not a heavily filtered DC powering the lamps. The Thyristor are connected straight to the mains and chop parts of the main AC wave. If the Thyristors were stuck full on then the full 220V would hit the 120V lamp and fry it.

In terms of the principle behind the regulation, yes it is all about lamp color and lamp voltage. The exact voltage you set is a trade-off between lamp life and intensity. Since the lamps cost so much, some advocate setting the voltage a little lower. Once the trimmer is set for a certain voltage to the lamp, it maintains the exact voltage to the lamp + or - one percent of the total voltage. This ensures the lamp color is exactly the same each time the enlarger is used.

From the manual:

The EST1000 voltage stabiliser [sic] keeps the output constant over an input range from 180 to 260 volts...it compensates voltage fluctuations from +10% to -15% within 0.3 second.

In the picture the lamp is indicated by the circle with the "X" in it. TH2 and TH3 are the thyristors.

120815

[swmcl]

Thank you for the block diagram.

My circuit is pretty different in function but I think I'll persist. The voltage stabilisation is a bit irrelevant here. The voltage is pretty constant over hours generally.

Thanks again.

We're not talking zero crossing detection in these old circuits are we ... ? and we're not talking of a series resistor set for 'just glow' to greatly reduce inrush current ... ?

Hmmm.

[ic-racer]

My circuit is pretty different in function but I think I'll persist.

What is your circuit from? Durst?



We're not talking zero crossing detection in these old circuits are we ... ?
Yes , zero detection to synch to pulses of the Thyristors to the mains sine wave.




and we're not talking of a series resistor set for 'just glow' to greatly reduce inrush current ... ?

In the CLS1840 and CLS2000 the lamp has current flowing through it , not from resistors but from the Thyristor circuit, pulsing ever so slightly at rest to keep the filament warm, but it does not glow. These heads also have an electronic shutter in addition to that. So the lamp lights up a second before the shutter opens and then the shutter closes before the lamp is extinguished.

[swmcl]

No my circuit is of my own design. I have no reference. I need to build from scratch unless someone can give me a heads-up.

Cheers,

Steve

[old time photo]

Just make sure you protect the enlarger with the recommended breaker size.
You will be using a lower size for the enlarger. In other words you would want
a sub panel

[swmcl]

Have no fear! It'll be more than adequately specified for safety and performance.

Cheers,

[ic-racer]

No my circuit is of my own design. I have no reference. I need to build from scratch unless someone can give me a heads-up.

Cheers,

Steve
I'd use a lamp that can be powered off the wall current.

[Degroto]

So I have finally my build up my Durst L184 again but this time it will stay that way. I have updated my topic as well:
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...arger&p=751071

And you can read a bit more about it on my new blog:
http://allthingsanalogue.weebly.com/blog/darkroom

I have a little trouble connecting my powersupply and the timer. I tried it but the light does not react to the timer. It stays on. Any thoughts? I will post a photo later with the different setups I have tried. Thanks in advance.

[ic-racer]

Degroto,
From your previous posts I believe you have a CLS301 head and TRA 301 powersupply. I don't have manuals on those items, but I do have some pictures from the internet (though, if you could post pictures of your equipment that would be better)

The image below is probably similar to the TRA301 (again, a picture of your unit would be better).
The timer triggers the lamp on-off through the "timer input" socket. Do you have your timer's output cord hooked up there? Have you confirmed that voltage is present coming out of the timer when it is on and none when it is off. I believe the trigger voltages it needs to detect at the "timer input" socket are from 90V to 240V to get the lamp to go on.
Do you have another timer to try? Does the enlarger lamp go off when you unplug the timer from the "timer input" socket?
121013

[Degroto]

I'll have a look tonight. The strange thing is couple of years back I had it hooked up and it worked. But now it won't. I have the same thing is is shown here. The powercord of the times was cannected to the TRA301. But nothing went into the timer itself. Normally I would suspect something like that. But the only cable from the CLS301 head has that strange looking connector. But again I'll try again tonight and I will make photo's and I'll take notes. Thanks for the input so far.

[swmcl]

Yes. My lamps (I bought two halogens to try of different power ratings) are rated for 240V whilst wall voltage is 230V. I will simply give them either 1 in 4, 2 in 4, 3 in 4 or full 4 in 4 half sinusoids. No chopping of the waveform but simply zero voltage startup on the half sinusoids. There might be a colour shift at the 1/4 setting but I'd hope to have a pretty even colour from the lamps otherwise.

The problem for me is that when the thyristor chopping circuits are employed they must start each partial waveform with a very steep dI/dt which must shock the filament. It would be a different story if they started at zero and then commuted their waveform. Perhaps I'm being a bit thingy here and I can revert to a chopping method later if need be.

I reckon if money were no object, I'd buy a full-on industrial dc power supply rated for the power and current and that would be the ultimate solution.

[ic-racer]

Depending on where you live, a regulated power supply may not be needed. I don't need one where I live.

[gary mulder]

When you do BW only consider a led lightsource. That’s the way I would go if my electronics or bulb’s run out. If you are doing color that’s a other story.

[swmcl]

Yes, I believe LEDs have a very non-continuous spectral response. It reminds me of an American who taught me in a business school once reciting something about US submariners having weak bones after a prolonged stint at sea because of the poor spectral response of the early flouro tubes in the subs.

I'm using halogens for the continual spectral response specifically. I figure the costs of running them is insignificant.

The halogens are new and for the stage (theatre) industry. They should be available for the foreseeable future.

Cheers,

[gary mulder]

If you want to use your durst for sunbathing you surely have a point. For making BW print’s I can’t see the necessity of a wide spectral response beyond what’s required to expose BW paper.

[Degroto]

121146
121147

I have connected the Tra301 and the Head301 the following way including the timer.
1) Timer powercord goes in the Timer socket on the Tra301
2) Powercord of the head with strange thingy goes in the long socket of the Tra301
3)The powercord of the Timer section (A on the photo) Goes into a wall outlet.

4) The powercord of the fan goes into a the Fan section on the Tra301.
5) The powercord of the fan section goes into a wall outlet.

In the timer I have nothing connected (see photo). This is probably where I go wrong. However I have put in the the powercord mention at 3) in the timer but nothing happens. The light is on and stay on. even when I turn of the timer.

What am I doing wrong?

[ic-racer]

Need a better shot of the back of the timer. Need to know which cord feeds the timer with power and which cord is the output from the timer to the enlarger. Also need to make sure the timer is not on some "Focus" mode where the enlarger light will always be on.

[Degroto]

I will post new photos. In the meantime:
On the first photo: The powercable on the top left leads to the timer. The second powercable leads to a wall outlet. The third cable is from the Color Head 301. The 4th and 5th power cable are for the fan.

On the second photo is the back of the timer.The cable on the right goes to the powercable on the top right of the TRA301. The there is an outlet and an on/off switch.

Normally i would plug in the powercable of the enlarger in the socket on the timer. And the timer would go into the wall outlet. However the power cable of the color head is the rectangualar thing on the TRA 301.

I have reread the manual and I will try again tonight. I'll keep you guys and galls posted

[ic-racer]

I The second powercable leads to a wall outlet.



Connecting the "Timer Input" to a wall outlet is a way to test your system when no timer is available, and it results in the enlarger lamp running continuosly. If you wanted to use a metronome for timing, you would just put an on-off switch in that cord. However, if you have a timer (like you do) you need to plug the timer OUTPUT into that port. I believe this is your problem.

[Degroto]

Thanks I will give this a try tomorrow. I will keep you posted.

[Degroto]

Ok I found it. On the back of the timer there is a switch. Turn it on and the lamp burns no matter what. Turn it off and you can control it with the timer controls. In other words. When you want to let the light burn for 5 seconds it goes out after 5 seconds. Thanks for the help! The Beast is fully awake now :)

[LF_rookie_to_be]

Man, what a thread. Kudos to anyone involved in bringing this machine back to life. Last week I witnessed an L1840 for the first time - it surely is an absolute beast. The example I was shown has at least half the gizmos mentioned here (focusing arm, turret for heavy lenses, colour head in perfect condition etc.) and is babied and frequently used by a former co-owner of a lab. He saved it, alongside a Printo and some other equipment and now runs a private service in a rented apartment and actually does a nice amount of printing from 8x10" negs, mostly B&W.

[Kimberly Anderson]

Hey, I've moved my beast into my darkroom today and I want to make a new baseboard for it. I was thinking I'd make one 30 inches deep by 36 inches wide out of 1/2+ inch plywood. The baseboard I have for it now is woefully undersized and is not the original one.

Was there a standard size that these came with? Does anyone have a pic of theirs with the factory baseboard on it? I'm pretty set on how I'm gonna make mine, but I was curious.

Thanks!

[ic-racer]

Which enlarger? L184 manual states 700 x 1000mm baseboard size (thickness not indicated in the manual)
My L1840 is 900 x 1100mm and is 29mm thick.

[ic-racer]

out of 1/2+ inch plywood.

I think that will be way too thin. How about this from Menards. It is the correct thickness (1 and 1/8" = 28mm) and has the melamine covering.
124191

You can put a black melamine edge binding on it and it will look like the original:
124190
124192

[Kimberly Anderson]

Ic-racer...sorry to not mention which one I had. It's the L184. I like the giant tabletop you show. That looks very nice. 1 1/8 inch huh? Wow. Yeah, that's a beefy baseboard. I might try looking at a counter top place today and see if I can't find something that looks original. I do like how it looks with that black edge too. Thanks!

[kpphoto]

Selling my Durst L1840...any takers?
CLS 1840
I am in Toronto Canada

[bob carnie]

Here is a slightly off topic... I have an 184 with 2000watt colour head... I am looking for the connector between the transformer and head... Does any one have one they want to sell
or is there any way of making one of these and who would be able to do this.

[ic-racer]

The connector is made by Siemens and is a DIN 41622. A quick internet search for DIN 41622 revealed a few sources: http://info.sommercable.com/2__produ...ns_messerl.htm
Or another source here : http://www.mpe-connector.de/index.php?lang=de&menu=4&product_group[]=10&action=Search

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[bob carnie]

Holly crap batman thanks a million this is exactly what I need... I love this forum.

The connector is made by Siemens and is a DIN 41622. A quick internet search for DIN 41622 revealed a few sources: http://info.sommercable.com/2__produ...ns_messerl.htm
Or another source here : http://www.mpe-connector.de/index.php?lang=de&menu=4&product_group[]=10&action=Search

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[Len Middleton]

Selling my Durst L1840...any takers?
CLS 1840
I am in Toronto Canada

Might be more effective in the classified section, but you will need to state a price, and ideally list everything with it. It seems this forum has a very strong Toronto based presence so it might not go too far away.

Did not know there was one that close by available, but I have one now...

[ic-racer]

Sorry links in above post may be bad. Here are updated links: http://www.mpe-connector.de/index.php?lang=en&menu=4&product_group%5B%5D=10&action=Search
http://www.canford.co.uk/DIN-41622-41618-MULTIPIN-CONNECTORS
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/din-41622-connectors/1006223/

[Drew Wiley]

I've got to pick up one of these in a few days and hope I can get it in my truck. I'll pack up the colorhead and carriers separately to keep it safe. Then the real
headache begins, moving stuff around in the dkrm to squeeze the 184 chassis thru. I'm also picking up another 138 at the same time. Probably have to rent a big box van truck with a tailgate lift or take two separate trips. Too many toys, and some of them have to go. But I'm not turning down anything Durst.

[bob carnie]

Thanks

Sorry links in above post may be bad. Here are updated links: http://www.mpe-connector.de/index.php?lang=en&menu=4&product_group%5B%5D=10&action=Search
http://www.canford.co.uk/DIN-41622-41618-MULTIPIN-CONNECTORS
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/din-41622-connectors/1006223/

[ic-racer]

I've got to pick up one of these in a few days and hope I can get it in my truck. I'll pack up the colorhead and carriers separately to keep it safe. Then the real
headache begins, moving stuff around in the dkrm to squeeze the 184 chassis thru. I'm also picking up another 138 at the same time. Probably have to rent a big box van truck with a tailgate lift or take two separate trips. Too many toys, and some of them have to go. But I'm not turning down anything Durst.

184 and 138 at the same time, good score! I'm sure better in your darkroom than where the are now. Which color head are you getting with these?

[Drew Wiley]

I don't know, but this guy is retiring from his chemical lab and bought only the very very best at top dollar, and has probably kept everything immaculate. He still studio shoots with digital backs on Sinar P's. I only have limited space so have to be choosy, and something else will have to go. I figure that if nothing weird happens to my health I might have twenty years after retirement before arthritis makes things clumsy. So I don't want to overdo it, and intend to stick with colo prints no bigger than 30x40, even though I could pick up a sixty inch Kreonite RA4 processor if I wanted it too. But I'm allergic to RA4 so only want to do that process in a drum outdoors. And this individual is willing to give gear only to me personally due to our close business relationship over the years. He has no interest in selling any of it because he makes so much money on a weekly basis as it is, that the effort to sell would just be a headache to him. But I've seen that scenario before, and have gotten some very nice free stuff before from other sources. The digital revolution is a blessing even to us optical types.

[bob carnie]

Ic-Racer
Do you know if this connector will work with a CLS2000 head and EST 2000N power supply that I have??

Bob

The connector is made by Siemens and is a DIN 41622. A quick internet search for DIN 41622 revealed a few sources: http://info.sommercable.com/2__produ...ns_messerl.htm
Or another source here : http://www.mpe-connector.de/index.php?lang=de&menu=4&product_group[]=10&action=Search

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[ic-racer]

Ic-Racer
Do you know if this connector will work with a CLS2000 head and EST 2000N power supply that I have??

Bob

DIN 41622 specifies the shape and orientation of the prongs. You need to get the same number of pins as the original, which is 20. The connector pins are the same on both ends of the cable but the housings are different. The EST2000N end of the cable has a plastic housing with a plastic latch on the housing and these look to be available. However, the end that connects to the CLS2000 head has the same DIN 41622 prongs, but the housing is metal with a special bail-style metal latch to keep it in place. I can't seem to find a source for that, but the plastic housing will probably work with some small modification.

[ic-racer]

20 strand cable can be had in 100ft rolls for over $300. A more inexpensive solution might be to make the cable out of individual wires using a braided cable sheath like this. You don't need 20 different colors if you are careful soldering the ends and use a continuity checker to match the wires to the pins.
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http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/BraidedSleeving-black-color-pet.php

[Drew Wiley]

I'm doing something sneaky here... adding a fictitious post just to keep this lengthy thread near the top of the list, where it's easy for me to find and read at my leisure. Sorry.

[ic-racer]

I'm doing something sneaky here... adding a fictitious post just to keep this lengthy thread near the top of the list, where it's easy for me to find and read at my leisure. Sorry.

Maybe I missed the significance of your prior post, but It looks like you are getting an L1840 and you don't already have one? I guess I thought you already had one. Anyway a lot of the PDFs related to the L1840 & CLS2000/1840 I have are not hosted anywhere, so if you would like any of them or want to know what PDFs I have let me know.

[bob carnie]

I would love a pdf on the CLS2000 if you have one. bob@bobcarnieprintmaking.ca

I have just changed my whole darkroom around.. second time in four months, I now have the durst set up to enable me to make horizantal 40 x50 inch silver prints.
I do not know how in the hell I lost the cord attaching the head to the transformer, but I did.

regards

Bob

Maybe I missed the significance of your prior post, but It looks like you are getting an L1840 and you don't already have one? I guess I thought you already had one. Anyway a lot of the PDFs related to the L1840 & CLS2000/1840 I have are not hosted anywhere, so if you would like any of them or want to know what PDFs I have let me know.

[Larry Kellogg]

I would love a pdf on the CLS2000 if you have one. bob@bobcarnieprintmaking.ca

I have just changed my whole darkroom around.. second time in four months, I now have the durst set up to enable me to make horizantal 40 x50 inch silver prints.
I do not know how in the hell I lost the cord attaching the head to the transformer, but I did.

regards

Bob

Hey Bob,

How are you developing your 40x50 prints? In a gutter or do you have big trays? My mentor does 30x40 prints for clients and uses big stainless steel trays, which are too heavy to rock or empty easily. Unfortunately, the guy who built the trays did not put drains in them.

Do you know of any source of big plastic trays that will fit 30x40 prints? It's nice to be able to see what is going on when you develop a print, something you can't do if they're in a gutter.

[bob carnie]

Hi Larry

I have three sinks .. two of them are 56 inches by 8ft.. the third is 56 inches by 12 ft. I have had very durable hard plastic trays welded to handle 34 x47 as well I have larger trays made for 40 x50. They have handles on them
and at 60 I am still strong enough to rock the trays.

When I roll large lambda paper 30inch by 12ft I use these under the bed plastic hampers.. they hold about 50 litres of chemicals each, and I hand scroll the large roll , then when fixed I cut down to the smaller sizes
and fix normally in my large trays.
Any large plastic supply house will be able to direct you to a plastic welder who can custom make the trays.. Approx $200 per 30 x 40 is what I paid, more due to material for the larger trays.
I have posted pictures of these trays before.

I am hoping to make a very large vertical washer at some point where I can wash up to 40 x50 inch prints by hanging them in slots with stainless steel weights (think very large fish tank with separators and water coming in and draining from bottom....... this is the largest Print Size I think I will every go Manually... there are others doing much larger prints but for me my sweet spot with murals is 30 x40
I just bought a new Drytac hot press and I love the ability to mount these large prints to 2ply to keep them flat for presentation.


Bob



Hey Bob,

How are you developing your 40x50 prints? In a gutter or do you have big trays? My mentor does 30x40 prints for clients and uses big stainless steel trays, which are too heavy to rock or empty easily. Unfortunately, the guy who built the trays did not put drains in them.

Do you know of any source of big plastic trays that will fit 30x40 prints? It's nice to be able to see what is going on when you develop a print, something you can't do if they're in a gutter.

[Kimberly Anderson]

I'm doing something sneaky here... adding a fictitious post just to keep this lengthy thread near the top of the list, where it's easy for me to find and read at my leisure. Sorry.

Good idea.

[bob carnie]

127390127391127392

Here are some pics of sinks and trays... The old set up worked quite nicely, but when I moved I had to make new sinks as my new location doorways were too small to handle the big sinks(don't ask - lots of hassels)
My brother made the bases for my new sinks and we used industrial style shelving to be the base, This works very well for large production darkrooms. Costly but never goes out of usage.

Getting the setup right was difficult and actually am currently moving everything around to suit my needs... getting some more safelights from Ginette here on LFormat, and making the whole basement area (1200sq ft ) a huge darkroom
for processing film, digital neg making, pt pd and tricolour printing and silver of course... When its done I think will be pretty slick and I am trying my best to make the downstairs not feel like a scene from Silence of the Lambs.

[Larry Kellogg]

Bob,

Cool setup, I'm sure we could use those plastic trays with handles! I just don't know any plastic welders in New York City, LOL. Could you post your source, or send it to me in a PM? Thanks!

[bob carnie]

Larry

There will be hundreds of capable people in NY area who can do this.. ask the plastic vendor , they will know, my source is in Toronto and shipping them to New York would be crazy expensive, unless of course you have a Van
a few tanks of gas and can sit on your ass for 12 hours direct NY to TO(each way) . My sources for plastic are Johnson Plastics, or EMPlastics you need to get to an old school customer service rep and let them know what you want with some diagrams.


You are welcome to visit and have some one here build it for you. But you Americans are pretty smart too.

Bob

Bob,

Cool setup, I'm sure we could use those plastic trays with handles! I just don't know any plastic welders in New York City, LOL. Could you post your source, or send it to me in a PM? Thanks!

[Larry Kellogg]

Larry

There will be hundreds of capable people in NY area who can do this.. ask the plastic vendor , they will know, my source is in Toronto and shipping them to New York would be crazy expensive, unless of course you have a Van
a few tanks of gas and can sit on your ass for 12 hours direct NY to TO(each way) . My sources for plastic are Johnson Plastics, or EMPlastics you need to get to an old school customer service rep and let them know what you want with some diagrams.


You are welcome to visit and have some one here build it for you. But you Americans are pretty smart too.

Bob

Ah, I forgot you were in Canada. No worries, the city has got to have some plastic shops somewhere, if they haven't all been driven out by high rents. I'll investigate.

I guess my mentor was hoping for an off the shelf buy, LOL. As it is, the guys who set up the darkroom had huge stainless steel trays made but they're backbreaking to work with and weigh a ton, so you can't rock them easily, plus they don't have handles or drains!

[bob carnie]

Ah, I forgot you were in Canada-----yes thankfully -Big City , rents not crazy , lots of power and water for my needs.. great photo community.

I have not seen off the shelf trays larger than 30 x40 ever... but making them yourselves will indeed be cheaper than you think. I do not have drains on mine , basically we use graduates to the Silver Recovery Machine for that dumping.
Never really seen the need for drains.. the handles though are really nice addition, makes rocking the trays very easy. you do not need much as once you get that volume of chems moving its like a tidal wave and little is required.

[ic-racer]

Bob, sent you some PDF files. Also, thanks for sharing photographs of your setup, it is a great inspiration.

[bob carnie]

Thank you for the pdf files, I will send a video link here once the darkroom is done.

I just moved into the new place , and my first darkroom plans were overwhelmed with the rest of my shop .. Two floors , where I was trying to cram 4000sq ft of gear into 3000 sq ft, and also maintain a nice gallery space.

Lots of stored stuff got tossed and still is being tossed.. I figure if I have not used something here in the last year its time for it to find a new home.

I think the layout that I have came up with is pretty damm good , but it always boils down to making prints in the darkroom and seeing how comfortable I am in the space... My sinks were way to high (again) and this caused me to get soaked
everytime I made a mural, I also really dinged my knee on the drop table of the Deveere , which never ever happened before.

Every month is an adventure right now, our new show is going up on the 17th of Jan and this constant changing of shows is keeping me on course.




Bob, sent you some PDF files. Also, thanks for sharing photographs of your setup, it is a great inspiration.

[Ginette]

Thank you for the pdf files, I will send a video link here once the darkroom is done.

I just moved into the new place , and my first darkroom plans were overwhelmed with the rest of my shop .. Two floors , where I was trying to cram 4000sq ft of gear into 3000 sq ft, and also maintain a nice gallery space.

Lots of stored stuff got tossed and still is being tossed.. I figure if I have not used something here in the last year its time for it to find a new home.

I think the layout that I have came up with is pretty damm good , but it always boils down to making prints in the darkroom and seeing how comfortable I am in the space... My sinks were way to high (again) and this caused me to get soaked
everytime I made a mural, I also really dinged my knee on the drop table of the Deveere , which never ever happened before.

Every month is an adventure right now, our new show is going up on the 17th of Jan and this constant changing of shows is keeping me on course.

Nice to see your setup, Bob. The new setup in video will be great.
Your large trays look to be Gray PVC sheets? I'm more fluent with plexiglas and already have a lot of sheets in stock so I will probably try to do some medium size trays for my projet, maybe 20"x40". Unless someone told me that acrylic is not a good choice. I saw that Clyde Butcher ones look transparent but discover recently that PVC also exist in clear sheet. Transparent sheet can be polycarbonate too. Any ones tried thoses materials?

[Larry Kellogg]

I think plexiglass is a lot heavier than PVC and more prone to breakage. I don't know a lot of technical information, but the huge Zone VI 16x20 acrylic plexiglass print washer I bought came broken in a number of different pieces, and was too heavy to lift.

[bob carnie]

I am not sure.. the grey material I have them made out of are heavy , but really durable , I abuse them and they are ok.

This material is very hard, whereas some plexiglass may be softer and prone to bending more in larger sizes... water in tray is very heavy and when you start rocking the tray by lifting on the handles there is no give
on my trays, I would imagine other plexi type material would bend and warp... but only a guess here..

If there was some one here good at welding this stuff I could imagine a cottage industry would emerge.

[Larry Kellogg]

You know, I know a little bit about welding because my brother worked as a welder for a while, and my father welded when he needed to, but I never knew you could weld plastic. It doesn't look that hard, but having good ventilation is key.

This article explains how to do it:

http://m.wikihow.com/Weld-Plastic

[jon.oman]

You know, I know a little bit about welding because my brother worked as a welder for a while, and my father welded when he needed to, but I never knew you could weld plastic. It doesn't look that hard, but having good ventilation is key.

This article explains how to do it:

http://m.wikihow.com/Weld-Plastic

The plastic welders are too expensive for home use! I was interested in welding up some deep PVC tanks for dip and dunk, but I went tilt when I saw the prices asked for the equipment needed to do the welds.

[George W.]

Re: Durst L1840 Enlarger 8x10 10x10--Rebuild of Electronics


I wonder if somebody ever tried to rebuild the electronics?

I have an L1840 with color head, motorised for lens holder and motorised for paper board,
all with original components.
This is however a special design for professional labs, where all the electronics and
motor control are in a separate cabinet, which is quite large.
I was thinking of possibly keep just the power supply for the color head, which is quite
special for stabilising the 2000 Watt bulb.

So I am considering of getting rid of this big cabinet, an rebuilding the power controls
for the 2 motors.


Therefore I would appreciate following insider knowledge on:
1. lens holder motor:
-ac or dc motor?
-what voltage?
-how many Watts?

2. paper holder motor:
-ac or dc motor?
-what voltage?
-how many Watts?

I could live with manual pushbutton control up/down fast/slow.

(no plans yet to redo the lamp timer electronics)


thanks for any possible feedback and comments

[ic-racer]

This is however a special design for professional labs, where all the electronics and
motor control are in a separate cabinet, which is quite large.

We need pictures of this!

The EPU 1000 control unit that came with most of the other L1840s fits between the feet of the enlarger. It has two main motor control boards. One is for the 24V focus motor. This is a moderately complicated speed-controlled circuit, so the down focus and up focus both run at the same speed. As I recall it is mostly an analog pulse width modulation circuit where back EMF charges a little capacitor to a preset voltage. The other speed controller is for the 220V motor that raises and lowers the head. That circuit is totally different and uses higher power Triacs to pulse the DC motor, essentially running it off AC. The motor is always 'on' being locked in place by the Triacs when not moving. The control for the motorized paper drive on the 'regular' L1840 enlargers, I believe, is just an on-off switch linked to the exposure sequence of the CLS 1000 or CLS 2000 color head.


If you are an electrical engineer, you could probably rig up something with off-the-shelf microprocessor controlled speed controllers. Or you could search for a busted L1840 and grab the EPU 1000 control unit to use in place of what you have.

Personally, if your have a working system I'd be happy and spend time printing.

[ic-racer]

One emergency backup idea for the focus of a L1840 is to use a reversible, brushed, 24V ,radio controlled vehicle speed controller like this, in conjunction with a 'servo tester.' I have another application in my workshop running from a system like that. With the knob in the middle the focus does not move. As you twist the knob clockwise or anti-clockwise the motor starts to move the focus stage up or down. You, of course still need 24V DC from somewhere. Most speed controllers like this have a 5v output to power the servo tester.

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134290

[George W.]

thanks for emergency backup idea :-) :-)

for the cabinet I will have to open, and retrieve the different circuit boards for pictures

I guess that they are all the same, perhaps also similar to the horizontal version…


ok for the lens focus motor being dc; sounds very curious that motor is expected
powered up all times, normally a dc power supply should be good enough…
(better designs include brake to stop movement,but apparently not here)


regards

[ic-racer]

Each motor has a different brake. The 240V motor is always energized and the 24V motor is just shorted. The 240V motor also works on a worm-gear, which resists the tendency for the head to slip back down.
Another solution for focus is to just convert to manual focus. Maybe something like this emergency automobile power window crank.

And again just to emphasize that the motor speed controls are regulated. The weight of the lens stage is considerable and the unregulated speed in the down direction would be many times the upward speed. This would make focus very tedious and drawn out. Especially bad when the 2000W lamp is continuously frying the dichroic coating of the expensive reflector while one is trying to focus.
134327

[Luis-F-S]

There was talk a while back on this thread about mounting a 240 Rodagon on a Unipla or Tripla. Here are some shots of a Lapla board I had SK Grimes make me to mount the lens. Ran a whole lot less than the "Durst" one. I did not plan to use it on a Tripla but on a Unipla, so the rear elements stick out too far back for the Tripla to rotate, but works fine otherwise. The last shot shows it mounted on a DeVere board I had SKG mount with the Durst Lapla holder (off a Unipla) so I can mount my Durst Lapla mounted lenses on the DeVere. Works great from 135 to 240 mm offers. I have recessed DeVere boards for the 50, 80, & 105 Rodagons. It will work with the 105 on a Seitopla but the bellows on the 8x10 is very compressed in that configuration. L

136341136342136343

And a shot of the 240 on the DeVere mounted on the adaptor board.

136350

[ic-racer]

They do great work, thanks for sharing.

[Ginette]

I have to reduce the stock I have in boxes ... I have a lot of accessories for the Durst 184 as I have 2.
Does any user of the condensers head need parts, especially canadians members for whom the shipping will be more raisonnable. I had two condensers heads.
A lot of condensers Lacon, I have a 180, 250, 350, 380 (2) in over. What is the 350 for, I don't see it in the Durst tables?
Also one of my head (bought from a member here) miss the Lazuco 181, what I read about is that supplementary condenser near the lamp is mandatory for the good light coverage of the regular condensers, any feedback about?
Just check the inside of the head and no Lazuco and the front mirror (near the door) is missing too :( Is this mirror need a metal frame. In all manuals I check I don't see pictures of the inside of the condenser head, any cues about.

[bob carnie]

I am looking for a power cord from transformer to CLS2000 head.


I have to reduce the stock I have in boxes ... I have a lot of accessories for the Durst 184 as I have 2.
Does any user of the condensers head need parts, especially canadians members for whom the shipping will be more raisonnable. I had two condensers heads.
A lot of condensers Lacon, I have a 180, 250, 350, 380 (2) in over. What is the 350 for, I don't see it in the Durst tables?
Also one of my head (bought from a member here) miss the Lazuco 181, what I read about is that supplementary condenser near the lamp is mandatory for the good light coverage of the regular condensers, any feedback about?
Just check the inside of the head and no Lazuco and the front mirror (near the door) is missing too :( Is this mirror need a metal frame. In all manuals I check I don't see pictures of the inside of the condenser head, any cues about.

[Christopher Nisperos]

Hi,

I'm finally trying to fire up my L184 and I've discovered —or, it seems— that the negative carrier system —a "lagraneg" frame— is incomplete. I don't know what I'll need to get started. I've talked to Mr. Jensen at Durst-Pro and he's asked me to send a photo (I can't do that right away, nor post one here yet because my darkroom is a distance from home). Meanwhile, would anyone here happen to know anything about this carrier? It seems to be identical to the laraneg, but Mr. Jensen says that if it's the one he suspects, it's bigger than the laraneg.

Jeez... all I want to print is 8x10, anyway. Isn't this frame only for smaller formats?

Anyway knowledgeable input would really be appreciated!

[ic-racer]

Hard to know without a picture.

[Drew Wiley]

There should be an outer portion which locks into the enlarger, and an inner part which slides into that and retains the glass. Two main components, plus glass.

[Christopher Nisperos]

@ ic-racer:

Yes, I know, IC ... but as I mentioned, I can't post one here yet because my darkroom is a distance from home. I'll get to it on the weekend. Meanwhile, I can tell you that it looks identical to the laraneg carrier, but Mr. Jensen says that the lagraneg is bigger.

[Christopher Nisperos]

There should be an outer portion which locks into the enlarger, and an inner part which slides into that and retains the glass. Two main components, plus glass.

OK, Drew, thanks. That helps. The lagraneg is just as you've described and, as I told ic-racer, it's identical to the laraneg*, except perhaps for its size ... this is the part I don't know. Also, I wouldn't know which glass to buy for it.

I'll be looking at it, photographing and measuring it on the weekend*, if I can manage to slip the inner part out (it seems to be stuck and I don't want to force anything .. I'm looking for secret buttons to push somewhere because Durst equipment doesn't usually need forcing).

Thanks again.

*(meanwhile, you can take a look at the laraneg on the Durst-Pro website, to get an idea. To my untrained eye, its the same as what I have).

[Christopher Nisperos]

Hard to know without a picture.

Here are a few photos of the Durst LAGRANEG holder system I have, for negative carriers (or inserts?). As you can see, it's similar to the LARANEG and GRAHALON holders in that it locks onto the enlarger head platform and that it allows negative carriers or inserts or masks to be slid into it.

To recap my problems (which have since bloomed!)*:

1. I need to know which negative carriers and/or inserts will fit this . . .unless I unwitting already have one ..because . . .
*2. I've just discovered that there seems to be some sort of insert already inside, but the darned thing is jammed in there and won't come out. I tried disassembling a few minor things, but I'm freaked out that I might ruin the whole holder (given the prices I've seen to replace it). Any ideas or experience in retrieving this insert? (The "pull" at the center of the insert seems stuck. See photo No. 3)

Lastly, I imagine that this carrier is for negatives smaller than 8x10, right? If so, would you know if I can use full-sized glass with this so I can somehow use it for 8x10 negs?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

142595142596142597142598

[gary mulder]

Yes the insert is already inside. You have to push it inward to get it released.

[Christopher Nisperos]

Thanks, Gary. I'll try it when I return to my lab (a few miles away from my home) in a couple days, and let you know what happens.

[Olli]

My L1840 has been waiting in the darkroom for some years in a dissembled condition. Now I have decided to to get it working. The problem is the motor moving the head, it only works in one direction, upwards. I myself do not understand anything about electronics, so I invited an electrician and we tried to figure out what the problem is. The actual reason was not found, but we know that the motor is functioning properly, goes up or down if the connections of the cords are changed. So the problem is somewhere in the signaling the motor, that's all we know so far. Any ideas where to search next?

The elecrician suggested assembling an additional switch changing the direction of the current in the motor and then using only one button to move the head. What do you think, would it work?

Good suggestions would be more than welcome.

[gary mulder]

The elecrician suggested assembling an additional switch changing the direction of the current in the motor and then using only one button to move the head. What do you think, would it work?


If you do that the head will go down much faster than up.

[Drew Wiley]

My own L184 redo has gone much faster than I anticipated. It's all shined up, and I just finished a new all-black baseboard for it. Now all I need to do is find a replacement bellows, or else that will be a headache. The company I previously used for new bellows is out of business, so guess I'll have to call around to the usual suspects. Hopefully no surprises with the electronics; but so far, all that seems to be working fine.

[ic-racer]

My L1840 has been waiting in the darkroom for some years in a dissembled condition. Now I have decided to to get it working. The problem is the motor moving the head, it only works in one direction, upwards. I myself do not understand anything about electronics, so I invited an electrician and we tried to figure out what the problem is. The actual reason was not found, but we know that the motor is functioning properly, goes up or down if the connections of the cords are changed. So the problem is somewhere in the signaling the motor, that's all we know so far. Any ideas where to search next?

The elecrician suggested assembling an additional switch changing the direction of the current in the motor and then using only one button to move the head. What do you think, would it work?

Good suggestions would be more than welcome.

There are over 400 posts in this thread. I'll re-view the highlights of repairs. In one of my units the metastable oscillating circuit that feeds the clock chip (that controls the up/down focus motor) was faulty. This was due to unwanted conductivity through the PC board and solved by replacement of a tiny resistor and capacitor.
In another unit with a failure, I found a open-circuit larger resistor. Post #153.
I don't recall exactly where, but it was early in the signal chain, one of the first places I checked.

[ic-racer]

My own L184 redo has gone much faster than I anticipated. It's all shined up, and I just finished a new all-black baseboard for it. Now all I need to do is find a replacement bellows, or else that will be a headache. The company I previously used for new bellows is out of business, so guess I'll have to call around to the usual suspects. Hopefully no surprises with the electronics; but so far, all that seems to be working fine.

You should post some pictures of this.

A little off the beaten path of the usual camera bellows suppliers, I was going to order a linear bellows from this industrial bellows company for my L1840 ( http://www.dynatect.com/protective-covers/bellows/custom-bellows/rectangular-tapered-bellows). That is the bellows on the L1840 column that hides the lift mechanism. I wound up repairing all the pleats by hand, so I never placed the order. But I see this place also produces custom tapered enarger bellows.

142848
142849

[Drew Wiley]

They were closed for the holiday, but I might try tomorrow. Previously I used Flexible Products Corp if Florida, and they did a superb job for my really big 8x10
enlarger. This L184 is really for a backup enlarger, since my hotrod version has some temperamental electronics related to the additive colorhead.

[Christopher Nisperos]

My own L184 redo has gone much faster than I anticipated. It's all shined up, and I just finished a new all-black baseboard for it. Now all I need to do is find a replacement bellows, or else that will be a headache. The company I previously used for new bellows is out of business, so guess I'll have to call around to the usual suspects. Hopefully no surprises with the electronics; but so far, all that seems to be working fine.

Drew,

Custom Bellows (formerly Camera Bellows) is still going strong over here in Europe . . I just spoke with their director, Tony Eaton, last week. Excellent quality, reliable, reasonable prices (even taking into consideration the shipping costs which, I've found, are a bit less expensive going toward the U.S., than the opposite direction!).

Hope this helps you, as you've helped me with info about my Durst carrier!

Chris

[Drew Wiley]

Thank you for that recommendation. I was aware of them too; but it's nice to know of someone with direct common with them. The L184 is such a common bellows replacement, that you'd think someone would have the specs already in their files. My own carrier is still going to have to be tricked out to match my own 8x10
register punches, but only when I finally get time to do dye transfer printing. I've got plenty of other printing projects to get caught up on first.

[Christopher Nisperos]

Yes the insert is already inside. You have to push it inward to get it released.

Gary,

I want to thank you, ic-racer and Drew for helping me solve this problem (or —I should say— learn my equipment!).
The next step is to find glass for the negative carrier. My research tells me that I need REGLAS 205.

One good deed deserves another, so here's a little summary of what I've found, for others like me who might be stumbling through the sometimes confusing Durst literature (holder/glass):

- GRANE 205 / GRAGLAS 205
- NEGA 205 / NEGLA 205
- LAGRANEG / REGLAS 205

Thanks again,

Chistopher

[Drew Wiley]

I'd just go to Focal Point for the glass. Original Durst glass is getting scarce, and is often damaged.

[Christopher Nisperos]

Thank you for that recommendation. I was aware of them too; but it's nice to know of someone with direct common with them. The L184 is such a common bellows replacement, that you'd think someone would have the specs already in their files. My own carrier is still going to have to be tricked out to match my own 8x10
register punches, but only when I finally get time to do dye transfer printing. I've got plenty of other printing projects to get caught up on first.

You're welcome! Custom Bellows might very well have original plans for the Durst 8x10 enlarger in their files. It's worth a call to find out because it would save you time and be the most accurate way.

The LAGRANEG has a pin registration bar in the enclosed negative carrier (MIVADAP) wit corresponds with Durst's MIVALO
register punch (and apparently they made a Kodak set, too..)

Dye transfer, eh? Brave man!

[Drew Wiley]

Yes, I contacted Custom Bellows and his price is reasonable. I don't use the Durst punch system but a range of gear Condit made for me back in their glory days, so I'll adapt the carriers to that. I've used registration techniques for decades, consistently with Cibachrome, once in awhile for black and white printing, nowadays
sometimes for color neg printing, and also while learning separation neg technique for DT. Each of these involves somewhat different masking strategies which
can be accomplished with a punch and matching contact frame. A registration carrier is only required when the print media itself has to maintain register - like
with dye transfer matrix film, though it might be fun to first try printing in register chrome separation negs onto RA4 media, which could hypothetically give better color than via internegs. I've seen it done. But only so much time, and a helluva lot of stuff to print, mount, whatever. Take it a step at a time. It's all fun, though I'll probably only find time to print some large format b&w negs this winter. Color and 35mm shots will have to wait.

[Ahab]

On a side note...I have the factory schematic for the est 1000 and est 1000n - invaluable for circuit board repairs. If anyone needs a copy PM me.

Sorry if it's off topic, but I'm trying to contact frotog but he has the PM box full and can't receive any message.

I'm desperately looking for these schematics (EST1000, not N) and I was trying to contact you and ask if you can send me them.
Please PM me!

[Ginette]

My 2 Durst 184 LAMOT 110 motors have the same behavior, 90% of the time it work correctly but sometimes I have to go a little higher to get it down, I hear the motor working but it doesn't move, I click on the reverse arrow and the motor work again when I switch on the other arrow direction.
In a moment of inattention, I wish to test how much closer I can goes to the ceiling and I doesn't check the column so I reach the height limit and cannot go down now :(
I removed the LAMOT and wish to install the manual crank I have to lower the head and wish to reinstall the motor later.

Here my specifics problems now:
- I broke the plastic pinion gear of the motor (maybe I broke it trying several up and down with the motor push button arrows).
- The motor big arm have a flat part into so the pin can be easily inserted and screw under. The manual crank don't have flat part so I simply cannot insert the pin and the bolt. Is it the same pin that need to be used?
- As the head is now at his maximum (and I don't want to break another pinion gear!) do I need to turn clockwise or counter-clockwise to get the head down. By any chance, do someone have some pinion gears in spare? Or do you know if Durst-Pro USA still sell metal pinion gear one?
- Also in my successive tries to get the head moving up and down, I blow the fuse ... See the pictures below, the one that blown is the 2A 250V #362 an auto fuse that Allen put in this enlarger (I bought it from him) see here (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?32852-Durst-L1840-Enlarger-8x10-10x10-Everything-you-wanted-to-know&p=587285&highlight=fuse#post587285) probably not the best choice comment from Donald about car fuses (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?32852-Durst-L1840-Enlarger-8x10-10x10-Everything-you-wanted-to-know&p=587366&viewfull=1#post587366).
My other motor fuse is a bit harder to read onto, it look like 361-8AG 2A 250V Littlefuse USA but I don't retreived this number online. Can someone point me the exact product to buy.

Here some pictures

[Ginette]

Here the vintage Instructions for the LAMOT.
Also a close shot of the pin, with the round shaft, it didn't fit at all.
And the original fuse (this one still working) it is the car fuse that blown.

[George W.]

Bonsoir, la réponse est simple, mais trop compliquée pour poster sur ce forum…. :-) :-) :-)


JUST CALL ME ON 00352-621-554.253 OR EMAIL AT GWAGENER AT PT.LU


"George W."
Dipl.Ing. EPFZ, MBA
LX1GW

[Luis-F-S]

So does anyone have the Hemot instructions? I suspect it's similar to the Lamot!

164902

[Ginette]

So does anyone have the Hemot instructions? I suspect it's similar to the Lamot!

164902

Probably similar, I post the LAMOT instructions pdf 2 posts below.
Yesterday I tried the arm and arm look too short to enter correctly into the Durst metal gear, I saw some marks on the plastic gear so the arm seems to miss about 1/4" to fully enter into the metal gear. I don't want to force it and brake the plastic gear.
Maybe the end of the arm is not exactly as the end of the Lamot. See my pictures below.
The gears look the same, it is 39mm diameter and 17 tooths.
Metal gears will be ideal, do you know is someone still have them for sale?
Also I need some fuses for this LAMOT.

[Luis-F-S]

I'm posting the Hedes control unit for the Hemot motor. It's separate, not like the Lamot, since it can also be used to control the motor for the table (Bremot) in addition to the head motor (Hemot). The fuse says 250 V on one end, and ABC Buss 10 on the other end. So since I'm using 120v, it's a 10 amp fuse. Otherwise it would be 5 A for 220 V. I can't get to the plastic bearing right now, I'll try to measure it when I move some stored items in front of the cabinet where I keep parts. Not sure if that helps.

164914164915

[Ginette]

I'm posting the Hedes control unit for the Hemot motor. It's separate, not like the Lamot, since it can also be used to control the motor for the table. The fuse says 250 V on one end, and ABC Buss 10 on the other end. So since I'm using 120v, it's a 10 amp fuse. Otherwise it would be 5 A for 220 V. I can't get to the plastic bearing right now, I'll try to measure it when I move some stored items in front of the cabinet where I keep parts. Not sure if that helps.

164914164915

Thanks for looking Luis. I didn't know about the table control too, nice feature.
Pretty different for the fuses. From the LAMOT instructions manual:
"The LAMOT is available for AC 220 V / 50 cycles and 110V / 60 cycles .
Three 1 amp fuses (for 220 V/ 50 cycles) and three 2 amp fuses (for 110
V / 60 cycles) are supplied with the motor driven vertical adjustment system.
ln order to start the LAMOT switch on the current supply at the toggle switch
(3). The height of the enlarger head can now be adjusted in the required
direction by actuating one of the push-buttons of the twin push-button
switch (4); arrows next to each push-button indicate the direction in which
they control adjustment. If the distance between the enlarger head and t he
base board is rather large, it can be adjusted at the remote control switch (5) ,
while you are observing the projected image, by moving the knob (6) in the
required direction, at the same time noting the indications on the side of
the switch. ln the upper or lower limit position, the limit contacts (7) automatically
switch off the motor when they contact the counterweight spring
housing or the column guide plate."

I think I found the good fuse for the LAMOT that look to be what I can read on the very old fuse from my second Durst.
It is probably a Littelfuse 8AG 2A 361 a Fast-acting 1" long 1/4" diameter, 2A 250V. Littelfuse catalog number is 361 002. Here a screenshot from the Littelfuse specs.

I will inquiry about metal pinion gear to Durst-Pro USA and also to Glenview. If I remember well I think someone here said that Glenview duplicate theses pinion gears.
Maybe my problem that motor didn't always goes down immediately (without going up before) is relied to the plastic gear that was very used.

[Luis-F-S]

Here's the plastic gear I have. If anyone has access to a CNC Lathe, I'd send them one to duplicate it. At one time you could buy these in bronze, but I think they are long gone. Ginette, it has 17 teeth, and I get 38.7 mm dia, probably close enough to yours. L

165404165405165406165407

[Ginette]

Here's the plastic gear I have. If anyone has access to a CNC Lathe, I'd send them one to duplicate it. At one time you could buy these in bronze, but I think they are long gone. Ginette, it has 17 teeth, and I get 38.7 mm dia, probably close enough to yours. L

I emailed you Luis.
If someone goes for the duplication, Jay (newvisionphoto on eBay) told me "Metal MUST be brass or nylon plastic petro chemical based material, or it will harm the worm gear."
Glennview and Glasser didn't have anymore (metal or nylon). Durst-Pro (Jensen) didn't answered me two weeks later, email again one week ago, still no answer :(

[Luis-F-S]

See if Jay knows of someone who can make it in brass. That would probably be easier than plastic. Did he have a source for it?

[bob carnie]

Ginette I have one here put aside that is metal the whole arm and gear its slated for you.

[Luis-F-S]

Bob that's great. I'm going to send her a plastic gear but she needed two. Do you have a source for metal ones?

[bob carnie]

No I have two handles and Ginette is a good person and committed to printing so its hers.

[Ginette]

Ginette I have one here put aside that is metal the whole arm and gear its slated for you.

The arm gear is in metal Bob? As I have 2 Durst 184, both with the LAMOT motors, I will like to have them geared correctly and use the motors. The arm is to be able to lower the head when it is jammed at his higher point and that the motor don't wish to get down. But I will take care the next time to not brought the head at the very top, I will put some foam on theses limit rods to be sure that I have some play if the motor jam another time.
And a good mechanical arm crank is very welcome if one of the motor fails or both, I can use the crank.
Maybe I did a bad move and break the nylon gear when I took out the motor. The Upper limit rod was so squeezed at the top of the column that I probably twist a little the motor to be able to remove it.

Luis, Jay tried to found theses parts but never be able. Probably that fabrication need to be a large quantity to worth the work on it. Your nylon gear is welcome Luis, I will put it on the motor and have Bob arm is case of motor problem. In fact I broke only one, and I will not remove the other motor to see what gear is there... it is not broken, don't fix it (as a member put in his sig).

Bob, the NuArc wait for you too! Will you come next week? Bring the Durst arm and big arms as NuArc is heavy!

[Luis-F-S]

Good idea, don't take out the other Lamot if it's working. I'll get the one gear out on Tuesday; Monday is a holiday. I too have a spare handle in case my Hemot dies, it's plastic gear is in good shape. L

[ic-racer]

Nice to see some progress on this as I'm not familiar with that style lifting mechanism.

Durst updated the lift mechanism on the L1840 with a worm-gear that runs the length of the whole column.

[Luis-F-S]

IC, the L-184 still has a SS worm-gear shaft that runs the full height of the column, the plastic gear rides on the shaft end that mates with worm gear. You can see the shaft between the two chromed columns.

165496

[bob carnie]

The arm gear is in metal Bob? As I have 2 Durst 184, both with the LAMOT motors, I will like to have them geared correctly and use the motors. The arm is to be able to lower the head when it is jammed at his higher point and that the motor don't wish to get down. But I will take care the next time to not brought the head at the very top, I will put some foam on theses limit rods to be sure that I have some play if the motor jam another time.
And a good mechanical arm crank is very welcome if one of the motor fails or both, I can use the crank.
Maybe I did a bad move and break the nylon gear when I took out the motor. The Upper limit rod was so squeezed at the top of the column that I probably twist a little the motor to be able to remove it.

Luis, Jay tried to found theses parts but never be able. Probably that fabrication need to be a large quantity to worth the work on it. Your nylon gear is welcome Luis, I will put it on the motor and have Bob arm is case of motor problem. In fact I broke only one, and I will not remove the other motor to see what gear is there... it is not broken, don't fix it (as a member put in his sig).

Bob, the NuArc wait for you too! Will you come next week? Bring the Durst arm and big arms as NuArc is heavy!

Yes the gear is metal- I have hurt my lower back Sciatica probably and I am not fit to drive to Montreal ... am getting better and will keep you informed... I will have Osheen and Hugues ready to help me lift it when I arrive.

I also have a box of paper , it will almost be like christmas in june for Ginette.

[ic-racer]

IC, the L-184 still has a SS worm-gear shaft that runs the full height of the column, the plastic gear rides on the shaft end that mates with worm gear. You can see the shaft between the two chromed columns.

165496


L184 looks like a helical rack and pinion drive. But in the L1840 the worm gear (basically a long screw) spins from a motor at the top of the column. That lifts the head without any other rotating gear.

L1840 works just like this little model, but with the motor at the top:

https://youtu.be/mmFvCX6ZO1k

[Luis-F-S]

Yes, the plastic slant rack gear is what usually strips and needs to be replaced. It's amazing how a very overbuilt enlarger can be made unusable by a plastic part! If you know of anyone who could make one out of brass, I'll send them my one spare so they can copy it. L

[Len Middleton]

Luis,

It may be possible to measure it up, or even get them 3-D scanned.

I do not know the economics of getting them CNC cut in brass, but as suggested in larger quantity, might be more economical.

How many would sell at the different price points if offered?

I think I will stick to the hand crank on my L184...

Good luck Ginette.

Best wishes to all,

Len

[Ginette]

Luis,

It may be possible to measure it up, or even get them 3-D scanned.

I do not know the economics of getting them CNC cut in brass, but as suggested in larger quantity, might be more economical.

How many would sell at the different price points if offered?

I think I will stick to the hand crank on my L184...

Good luck Ginette.

Best wishes to all,

Len

The manual crank have also the same nylon gear! According to what I see inside the body of the enlarger, this small gear (at the end of the crank arm or motor arm) enter in a similar gear but larger (in metal) and this is that gear which contact the SS worm-gear shaft.
I post also on a French forum and they think that Durst may have used standards gears and that they probably be retrieved on specialized markets. They said also that gear cutting is a rare speciality that need very rare machines. The exact material is probably POM (Polyoxymethylene) like Acetal. Some Durst 184 users on the French forum will probably make some searches to find the exact gear on speciality market firms, they talk about 20€ value (around 20$US)! I will let you know if something interesting will be post there.
I think the plastic gear is very solid when it contact correctly the second gear. It is when we remove the motor that we can do a bad movement and brake it. The manual crank is maybe less prone to break the gear as the arm turn on itself so no stress on the gear. The problem with the crank is when you overturn when you're at top or bottom of the enlarger column.
The motor arm is not mobile (unless you activate the motor) so a great care must be applied when you insert it. If the motor is jammed on top like mine, it is a good idea to remove the upper limit rod of the motor. This way you can enter the motor with some angle as needed to feel that the gear contact correctly the second gear. When the motor is reinstalled correctly and lowered to middle position, you can removed, replace the upper limit rod and realign the motor exactly with the red dot at top and gears will be still in theirs good positions.

Ok Bob, I will have nice visit with you, Osheen and Hugues.

[Ginette]

A member here (Will) sent me a picture of his clamping bolt and, as I supposed, the Lamot motor clamping bolt will not fit with a crank. Two different bolts exist.

Lamot motor have a notch on the shaft so the clamping bolt is simply slanted.
165696

If you put this bolt in the hole, you will not be able to insert the crank
165697

This crescent shaped cut-out bolt is needed for the crank. Thanks to Will to have sent me this picture.
165698

I ask to Jay Overmoen (newvisionphoto) to duplicated the bolt to be able to use Bob crank!

[Luis-F-S]

The clamping bolt on my Hemot fits the handcrank-same bolt

[Len Middleton]

When I got my L184, it did not have the clamping bolt.

However I was able to modify a standard bolt using a bench grinder.

Not pretty, but that part of the bolt is hidden from view and it works with my hand crank version.

[bob carnie]

I have a Durst 184 with CLS2000 head here that I will sell for parts , a lot of stuff on this sucker and it needs to go to people that use this, missing a power cord from head to transformer..
If there is interest I can jpeg all the stuff I got and those wishing the parts can call me, I am not trying to circumvent the sales rule (probably am) but you people on this thread actually could use
the parts.
Any interest ??
Bob

[urs100]

Hello,

I know this is more about the L1840 but perhaps someone can help me...

I own a Durst HL2501 and have a new problem. The problem occurred after a relocation from one room to another.

At switching on the machine still behaves as usual: It runs towards the front and starts a setup cycle in which the bellow is being extended and all filters are tested. Showing in the display "Durst HL2501 AF Filter SetUp","Version MG 83.41X.8Z"

Before the relocation the machine then went a litle bit backwards and ended the setup cycle and was ready for work and prompting for a command.

Now the machine runs backwards completely to the back stop switch, remains in that position and does not end the set up, so that I cannot enter anything. Something prevents the machine/software from ending the cycle properly.

Do you know this problem? Is there any trick to cancel/interupt the setup cycle? Do you perhaps know someone who might help me? I live in Berlin, Germany.

Best
Claus

[Christopher Nisperos]

Hello,

I know this is more about the L1840 but perhaps someone can help me...

I own a Durst HL2501 and have a new problem. The problem occurred after a relocation from one room to another.

At switching on the machine still behaves as usual: It runs towards the front and starts a setup cycle in which the bellow is being extended and all filters are tested. Showing in the display "Durst HL2501 AF Filter SetUp","Version MG 83.41X.8Z"

Before the relocation the machine then went a litle bit backwards and ended the setup cycle and was ready for work and prompting for a command.

Now the machine runs backwards completely to the back stop switch, remains in that position and does not end the set up, so that I cannot enter anything. Something prevents the machine/software from ending the cycle properly.

Do you know this problem? Is there any trick to cancel/interupt the setup cycle? Do you perhaps know someone who might help me? I live in Berlin, Germany.

Best
Claus

Hello Claus,

Christopher Nisperos in Paris, here. Try Wolfgang Weber, in München.

FOTOSERVICE JUNGKUNZ (used minilab equipment)
Hans-Mielich-Platz 1
D-81543 München
T: + 49 (0) 89-651 99 75
F: + 49 (0) 89-651 99 81
C: + 49 (0) 171-268 83 30

He knows a lot about Durst and professional lab equipment and if he doesn't know specifically about your horizontal enlarger, he can probably direct you to the right place to find the information.

Attention: He's hard to reach. I suggest you try ALL the means of contacting him, including fax and a LETTER (remember those? :)

Secondly, their is a retired Durst tech-rep in the UK who is of course very knowledgeable about that equipment, but as I said —he's retired— and he seems reluctant to return phone calls (I need his help myself, to train me to use a Durst mini-printer). As I'm trying to currently contact him, if i succeed I'll ask him if he would accept a call from you.

PM me to stay in contact. I've resolved to reduce my time in front of the computer.

Hope this is helpful.

Chris

[online]

I reckon if money were no object, I'd buy a full-on industrial dc power supply rated for the power and current and that would be the ultimate solution.

[urs100]

Dear Christopher,
thank you very much for your tip.
Finally I managed to get hold of Mr. Jungkunz and he gave my a very good tip: There are three small micro switches beneath the base, closed to the tracks, and one of them seems to be damaged. That might be the reason.
I will look for a replacement and try again.
Best
Claus

[urs100]

Hello,
problem solved. The problem was a broken micro switch, see attached image.
Replacement was hard to get from the original supplier, they usually sell them in packages of 500 pieces. Now they charged me 25 Euros for ONE, but it was worth the money because the machine works well again. In between I tried another similar looking switch for a few Euros but that one did not work either.
Best
Claus


170433

[ic-racer]

Hello,
problem solved. The problem was a broken micro switch, see attached image.
Replacement was hard to get from the original supplier, they usually sell them in packages of 500 pieces. Now they charged me 25 Euros for ONE, but it was worth the money because the machine works well again. In between I tried another similar looking switch for a few Euros but that one did not work either.
Best
Claus


170433

Good work that you persisted and got it working again!

[Christopher Nisperos]

Glad it worked out, Claus!

[keptamon]

Useful thread. Learn lots of new things. I always test my electronic device through the fluke 117 (https://bestmultimeterreviews.org/fluke-117-review/) multimeter. But, it is new things for me.

[Doug Richardson]

Very interesting reading. Such a big beautiful machine. I saw this ad in the German E-Bay site and is close to where I live. I wish I could justify buying it. No price listed as price negotiable. How much would one of these things go for anyway?

https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/durst-laborator-184-grossbildvergroesserer-mit-farbmischkopfcls-1840/773450173-245-1609

-Doug

[Luis-F-S]

Anywhere from the scrap value of the metal to whatever someone wants to pay for one. I paid $2,000 for my SM-183 25 years ago, and two years ago bought an 8x10 DeVere for half of that. So it really depends on how badly you want it, and how badly the seller wants to get rid of it. With the 8x10 Dursts, there is an issue of bulb availability, so you probably want to look into that.

[Len Middleton]

Very interesting reading. Such a big beautiful machine. I saw this ad in the German E-Bay site and is close to where I live. I wish I could justify buying it. No price listed as price negotiable. How much would one of these things go for anyway?
-Doug

As Luis alluded to, the range is extremely wide...

I paid a little more than scrap value for mine (250USD through a LF community member), but then invested in lensboards, AN and regular glass for the negative carrier, some considerable effort in clean up, procuring some lamps, and some fabrication.

Depending upon your skills or the local available of the needed skills at reasonable rates, you might consider purchasing a working system...

Good luck on your efforts, as they are remarkable machines.

Regards,

Len

[Gudmundur Ingolfsson]

Try to buy the two filament lamp for it or the silver coated reflector needed for even light. I have one like this that I would like to sell with new reflector and three spare lamps but I would want more than the scrap metal price for it. On the other hand I could deliver it to your address in Europe anytime after april 2018.

[ic-racer]

Getting just a few days from the 10-year anniversary of my ownership of this enlarger.

[Christopher Nisperos]

Getting just a few days from the 10-year anniversary of my ownership of this enlarger.

Happy [soon to be] anniversary, ic-racer!

[Drew Wiley]

I can't think of any "Durst" bulb that you can't get at a fraction of the price from a specialty bulb dealer. But my current colorhead on the L184 uses common affordable ELH bulbs.

[urs100]

What supplier can you recommend for a 2000W bulb for the Durst horizontal enlargers?
Claus

[ic-racer]

I got some Thorn HX27 (Durst Colamp 2000) from Durst USA. I think it is the same one for the HL2506.

[ic-racer]

I worked late the week of the anniversary and then worked on the weekend. No big celebration but I plan on a cleaning and mechanical/electrical check.

[Chuki]

To the idea of plexi trays.

Plexiglass is afraid of some chemicals. For example, usual alcohol will make it go "dry", matt, go to small cracks in few month.
I have been buying a pump from water cooling PC mother boards. Seller told me "never try alcohol to acrylic". And explained why.
Since then we never try cleaning acrylic after framing with alcohol...

We have done some 50x40 trays welded from 4mm PVC. Walls from 6 mm. And some edgштп around the top for rigidity and to carry around.
Here in UA it cost us about 400$ for 6 trays (work and materials). Right guy was found by a search for 'welding pvc for pools".

Also, we have 4 permanent 50*40 trays from stainless but had to cover then with epoxy cover as stainless welds started to show stain.. :)

To dump permanent trays we use 2x4 wood bar under all Legs from one side and small 8x10 (o smaller tray) and windows wash squeezer to help (20L per tray).

[Chuki]

I got some Thorn HX27 (Durst Colamp 2000) from Durst USA. I think it is the same one for the HL2506.

I got some of mine (and didn't get twice more) from the same source. I know that Jens sold some from the last stock we bought 50\50 to Russians. Now I see that these guys a selling one by one on ebay.

[Chuki]

Hello,
problem solved. The problem was a broken micro switch, see attached image.
Replacement was hard to get from the original supplier, they usually sell them in packages of 500 pieces. Now they charged me 25 Euros for ONE, but it was worth the money because the machine works well again. In between I tried another similar looking switch for a few Euros but that one did not work either.
Best
Claus


170433

Sorry I have seen this post only today. We have the same problem with this switch when 2501 jumped off the rails (one stupid guy (guess who) installed enlarger so that fully inserted neg holder was reaching the corner on the way). To prevent irreversible the same guy put a stop so that neg couldn go deeper than corner. And the same guy took it off to print neg that was too far from center on the glass. And forget till the next day.. Rails are flat on one side so wall din't suffer much due to machine going off the rails. After that experiment prooving irreversibility of irrversable machine was reinstalled to another location.

Also always check that nobody leave foot inside rails while powering machine - it is bad when machine trap the foot against crossbars. Friend and clients in the darkroom usually tend to understimate this.

Also in the test mode you could quick check for the switches actuation (if you power on machine with service button pushed).

PS being paranoic I always turn off the machine in the close to the wall position so that other guys have no chance to harm themselves after power on.

[ic-racer]

Wow, what happened to this thread. The story is told in pictures (I'm a photographer, not a writer :)) but all the pictures are gone!!

It may take months of constant work to re-post all the pictures in some context.

Anyway, some updates:
A new Reflector!!!

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[ic-racer]

A few months ago the fine focus stopped working. I checked and re-tweaked the metastable oscillator circuit. I had put a little trimmer pot in place of the resistor R 41 so this can be adjusted without taking the board out and re-soldering a new resistor from the "E12 Series."

182829

[Christopher Nisperos]

Dear ic-racer,

I agree with your shock that the photos have disappeared from this thread (as well as many others on the web.. which could be the subject of another thread, in itself, and IMHO another argument in favor of paper storage and analogue vs digital and web storage, at least, ironically as a back-up!).

Secondly —related to Durst 8x10— I have a question of you. I've just re-discovered a pulsed-xenon light source I have for a Durst L184 (I'm in France). I have no use for it and, anyway, wouldn't have the money to have the work done to certainly update the capacitors for this electronic monster. Do you know anyone here in Europe who'd be interested in this beast?

Best,

Christopher

[ic-racer]

Dear ic-racer,

I agree with your shock that the photos have disappeared from this thread (as well as many others on the web.. which could be the subject of another thread, in itself, and IMHO another argument in favor of paper storage and analogue vs digital and web storage, at least, ironically as a back-up!).

Secondly —related to Durst 8x10— I have a question of you. I've just re-discovered a pulsed-xenon light source I have for a Durst L184 (I'm in France). I have no use for it and, anyway, wouldn't have the money to have the work done to certainly update the capacitors for this electronic monster. Do you know anyone here in Europe who'd be interested in this beast?

Best,

Christopher

Perhaps Sergey, who remanufactured the reflector. I'll direct him to your post.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

Should have a thread on the CLS450 head and the Laborator 1000 CE and 1200, also the 138. I am almost done with my cls450 in cleaning and checking it out. I just need to replace all the crusty screws with nice new shiny ones. But gotta figure what size/thread they are. Also, got as many spare parts as possible, color filters, heat absorbing glass, uv/diffuser filters, negative holders etc. Keep this thing running till I'm dead in 100 years. Can't wait to get an L138 or bigger once I have this printing thing down.

[ic-racer]

At least at all the hardware stores near me, metric hardware is available. This is a little crazy, my wife bought one of those fancy tables with post on the back to hang our first big flat-screen TV. Seems like the hardware package came with enough extra hardware to mount a hundred different TVs. I saved all the extra hardware, it was nice black anodized metric hardware. Turns out some of the screws were nearly identical to rusty screws on my L1840.

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[Steven Ruttenberg]

Nice!

[Drew Wiley]

138's are easier to rebuild than 184's, also easier to move, but beware of detaching that big main spring. It could get you seriously hurt.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

On mine I have to remove the whole assembly and deach cable before removing spring or else.

[Luis-F-S]

L-1000 is a whole different animal from the L-138, L-184, SM-183 or L-139. As I understand it, the larger Laborators were made by Durst's professional division, the 4x5 enlargers by their consumer division.

L

[Steven Ruttenberg]

According to what I read the CE was made on one continent while the 1000 pro was made on another, but they are identically the same. As for what division made what, I don't know, but the cls450 was used on lots of different models, so couldn't tell you. But from going thru this, it is definitely well made for sure.

[ic-racer]

Durst made some of the best 4x5 enlargers of all time. Top of the line products, just smaller than the 5x7 and 8x10 models.
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[Drew Wiley]

There is simply no way the quality of materials or machining that Durst used on their true commercial enlargers could be realistically kept going into this era of aluminum extrusions and CNC parts. The same goes for everything from table saws to microscopes to the difference between the finish on a Sinar Norma camera and what followed afterwards. In that respect, everything has gone downhill from the 70's onward (including music of course). Lenses are a different topic, and have benefitted from newer technology, but in other ways, have suffered from restrictions on glass types.

[Luis-F-S]

There is simply no way the quality of materials or machining that Durst used on their true commercial enlargers could be realistically kept going into this era of aluminum extrusions and CNC parts. The same goes for everything from table saws to microscopes to the difference between the finish on a Sinar Norma camera and what followed afterwards.

+1 Why I’m holding on to my 1941 Delta joiner. Regardless of what you read they don’t make them like they used to!

[Drew Wiley]

Luis - "they" don't make them at all anymore! The Delta brand name has changed hands quite a few times in recent years, but other than a small quantity of Unisaws still made in Tennesee, everything else is imported from China and a far cry from the glory days. Good cast iron mid-level jointers are still offered by Powermatic up to 12" width. I knew the idiot CEO who ruined Delta - doubt he was capable of plugging in an electric drill - basically one of those former frat presidents who always had a big dumb grin and knew how to schmooze and throw parties, but was otherwise unbelievably incompetent. I really don't know when my floor drill press was made, probably in the 50's. You can get superb Italian drill presses from Wilton for about 2K, but most of the usual suspects are now amateurish Chinese-built imports. Around here, there's an abundance of old shipyard machinery available at bargain pricing. Sometimes you have to switch out a 3-phase motor for a single-phase; but that's generally easy to do.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

As you say, they don't make them like they used to. Which is quite true for almost anything. Imagine one day needing an artificial kidney (cloned) its gonna come from china with a designed in disease so you need to get a new one a few years later. Like the Chevy Vega, the first real disposable car. It was cheaper to buy a new one than fix it.

[Luis-F-S]

Luis - "they" don't make them at all anymore! The Delta brand name has changed hands quite a few times in recent years, but other than a small quantity of Unisaws still made in Tennesee, everything else is imported from China and a far cry from the glory days. Good cast iron mid-level jointers are still offered by Powermatic up to 12" width. I knew the idiot CEO who ruined Delta - doubt he was capable of plugging in an electric drill - basically one of those former frat presidents who always had a big dumb grin and knew how to schmooze and throw parties, but was otherwise unbelievably incompetent. I really don't know when my floor drill press was made, probably in the 50's. You can get superb Italian drill presses from Wilton for about 2K, but most of the usual suspects are now amateurish Chinese-built imports. Around here, there's an abundance of old shipyard machinery available at bargain pricing. Sometimes you have to switch out a 3-phase motor for a single-phase; but that's generally easy to do.

How true, for as little as I use my joiner, I'll keep it; it's a short bed 6". Also why I keep my SM-183 stored. Maybe one day I'll have the room to set it up. Until then, I'll get by with my 810 DeVere. L

[ic-racer]

Ten years in the same location and it looks like it might be time to move. Just to refresh my memory of how I got the enlarger into my darkroom I was reviewing these pictures:
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[ic-racer]

So, at the time, since I had limited amount of time to be with the enlarger to move it, I was un able to figure out how to get the camera off the column.
Well, after ten years, I'm still not sure how to do it, but I have at least a few months to figure it out now.

I believe that the camera will slip off the shaft on which it rotates (annotated in red in the picture). There is no bolt on the end of the shaft holding it together; the shaft fits into a blind pocket. Makes me think if I can remove the worm-gear rotating mechanism, the camera could slide off the shaft. I think there is a flange of some sort also that I can see from the top (no picture of this).
185283

[ic-racer]

Those stairs have long fallen apart and have been re-done. The dolly was a make-shift addition at the time. It was starting to rain and we had limited time to move.

For the trek back up those stairs I plan on two larger dollies, one at each end. Also, some safety rope attached to a tree up the hill and probably a winch.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

Sounds like you are in for some fun. I hope to move only one more time. Sometime in the next 5-10 years max.

[Drew Wiley]

I recently was offered another big 184 for free, provided I move it intact. After just recovering from two months of shoulder bursitis misery, I said, No thanks.

[gary mulder]

So, at the time, since I had limited amount of time to be with the enlarger to move it, I was un able to figure out how to get the camera off the column.
Well, after ten years, I'm still not sure how to do it, but I have at least a few months to figure it out now.

I believe that the camera will slip off the shaft on which it rotates (annotated in red in the picture). There is no bolt on the end of the shaft holding it together; the shaft fits into a blind pocket. Makes me think if I can remove the worm-gear rotating mechanism, the camera could slide off the shaft. I think there is a flange of some sort also that I can see from the top (no picture of this).
185283

Remove the worm-gear and a bronze bar that holds the camera on a groove in the shaft. The groove is difficult to see in the picture. There is a cord resting in it.

[Fred L]

dear god, my Devere 5108 looks miniscule compared to that chassis lol