Tube developoing problems

[r3tic]

I'm just starting to shoot 4x5 and I made a set of BTZS style tubes for developing. I am using TMax 100 and HC-110 dilution B for 5min @68deg. I am having a problem with the negatives developing in the center as I think they should but not over the rest of the negative. I realize HC-110 can be an aggressive developer, should I cut the concentration in half and double my time? I am certain that the emulsion is facing in when I place them into the tube. I'm just not sure where to go from here. Any advice will be appreciated.

The negatives below are attempts #1 and #2 for me with the 4x5. Both were developed the same but I ended up with different results

http://www.r3tic.net/First 4x5_sm.jpg


http://www.r3tic.net/OrchidProblems.jpg

[Vaughn]

The flower negative looks like it has been fogged -- either before of after it was in the film holder...with the fogging coming in from both ends of the film.

Even the upper rebate of the top negative shows some.

Vaughn

[Shen45]

I'm just starting to shoot 4x5 and I made a set of BTZS style tubes for developing. I am using TMax 100 and HC-110 dilution B for 5min @68deg. I am having a problem with the negatives developing in the center as I think they should but not over the rest of the negative. I realize HC-110 can be an aggressive developer, should I cut the concentration in half and double my time? I am certain that the emulsion is facing in when I place them into the tube. I'm just not sure where to go from here. Any advice will be appreciated.

The negatives below are attempts #1 and #2 for me with the 4x5. Both were developed the same but I ended up with different results



[1] As soon as you invert the tubes shake them very vigourously like a cocktail shaker for 10 seconds.

[2] put all the tubes in the water bath and begin spinning them. spin 2 tubes against each other. Thumb one side of one tube and the forefinger on the other side of the second tube. Snap your fingers together and the tubes will spin quickly but slow to a stop within 3 - 4 seconds. Just before they stop spin them again. Keep all of your tubes spinning.

[3] At the end of development you can remove the cap with the film opening facing down, and as long as you get the tube into the stop bath within 1 - 2 seconds fogging is never a problem with film up to 400 iso in a safe lit darkroom or a room with a 15 -25 watt [240v] globe about 2 metres from where you work.