eric black
9-Jan-2008, 12:18
continued from an earlier thread which unfortunately lost momentum:
Im still having problems with overexposed Velvia 100 (not F) transparencies while Velvia 50 and Provia seems to work fine for me. Again, I use a Kodak 6 step kit, JOBO CPP2 with 3010 drum and a NIST-calibrated thermometer for temperature accuracy. Development time is the JOBO recommended 7:30 (seven minutes 30 seconds) which is 16% in excess over normal development times (works great for Velvia 50 and Provia 100F)
My course of action to correct this (as I have a few hundred sheets left to use) is to either:
1. adjust my metering to underespose the film even more than I currently am. I use a Pentax spotmeter for which I meter Velvia 50 at 50, Provia 100F at 125 and am currently metering the Velvia 100 at 125 with thoughts of metering it at 160. The downfall of this would be even more loss of shadow detail than what this film is currently known to fail at.
or 2. Adjust my developing time down to either 7:00 or maybe even 6:30 and treat this film more like Kodak film.
Again, does anybody have any insights that might help me to hone in on which course of action seems best? I dont mind doing the testing and will if I cant mine any insights here, but would rather use the chemicals for real results if I can avoid it.
Im still having problems with overexposed Velvia 100 (not F) transparencies while Velvia 50 and Provia seems to work fine for me. Again, I use a Kodak 6 step kit, JOBO CPP2 with 3010 drum and a NIST-calibrated thermometer for temperature accuracy. Development time is the JOBO recommended 7:30 (seven minutes 30 seconds) which is 16% in excess over normal development times (works great for Velvia 50 and Provia 100F)
My course of action to correct this (as I have a few hundred sheets left to use) is to either:
1. adjust my metering to underespose the film even more than I currently am. I use a Pentax spotmeter for which I meter Velvia 50 at 50, Provia 100F at 125 and am currently metering the Velvia 100 at 125 with thoughts of metering it at 160. The downfall of this would be even more loss of shadow detail than what this film is currently known to fail at.
or 2. Adjust my developing time down to either 7:00 or maybe even 6:30 and treat this film more like Kodak film.
Again, does anybody have any insights that might help me to hone in on which course of action seems best? I dont mind doing the testing and will if I cant mine any insights here, but would rather use the chemicals for real results if I can avoid it.