Mistakes were made (buying film holders)

[john wilton]

Bought 3 wood 5x7 "cut film" holders on ebay, but the film edge channels seem deeper than Riteway holders...they will accommodate up to 4 thicknesses of AristaEdu. I thought maybe the holders were for glass plates, but the geometry would appear to rule out inserting a rigid sheet of glass. What to do... toss them? Oddly, one of the 3 is heavier, has a metal central sheet, with a 4" square (see-through) cutout.

[Glenn Thoreson]

Those are really old. I can't tell exactly by the picturees, but they look to me like old Anscos. Old sheet film was a bit thicker than most modern stuff. If you have a way to measure the depth, to see if the register coincides with your ground glass depth, in the focus panel, you can tell if they will be usable. Be sure you have a sheet of film in the holder when you measure. If the depth from the surface of the holder matches the G.G. depth, you're OK. I would tighten the slots up a bit by gently bending the edges down. Not tight. Just enough that the film won't flop around. Of course, you need to test the holders for light tightness before you use them. I really don't know what to say about the one with the hole. It wouldn't be usable as is. If you cover it with something, it might put the film out off register. If you find you can't use them at all, leave me a PM.

[Jim Jones]

The old (1951) ANSI distance from the face of the holder to the face of the septum is .228", plus or minus .010" The minimum depth of the film channel is .012" with no maximum specified. Thus, the distance from the face of the holder to the film emulsion might be from .216" to .245". Measure that distance with a vernier calipers or depth micrometer to see if it falls within the allowable limits. For consistancy you could load two or three sheets of scrap film behind the unexposed film.

[Clyde Rogers]

Check especially for light leaks on the edge opposite the flap---where the ribbed light trap for the dark slides are. It's hard to tell, but for your holders these parts look to be wood. The springs in the light traps seem to bend this thin wood part outward, sometimes resulting in a poor light seal. I had some of these holders that worked adequately in a really heavily sprung B&J back, but not in a reasonably tight Canham back. I don't use those holders anymore.

I've got a half dozen or so Ansco wood holders where this part is aluminum (so it hasn't bent out) and I really like them. Film placement in them is fine, and they're smaller and lighter than a Lisco.

Until later,

--clyde

[Pete Watkins]

I made a similar mistake. I bought a number of what I thought were 5x7 holders only to find that they were half plate, still, I can get half plate film and the holders fit my beautiful B & J.
Pete.

[john wilton]

I tried measuring...groundglass register would be at the front of the film channel and the film would be out of focus, unless there were 3 sheets of scrap film behind it as Jim suggested. I'd better make do with the 3 good holders I have--usually enough--and look for a few more. Glenn, I'll PM you, you're welcome to these if you want them--can't bend the guides down because they are wood; and would be out of register for my Korona.

[Glenn Thoreson]

I'll give details in my reply. Thaks.

[Donald Qualls]

Glenn, I'll PM you, you're welcome to these if you want them--can't bend the guides down because they are wood; and would be out of register for my Korona.

For whatever it's worth, you probably could permanently install a shim made from sheet polystyrene (readily available at hobby and craft shots including Hobby Lobby) of suitable thickness (.020 might well do it, since you're looking at wanting three scrap sheets). That would put the film at the front of the available space to restore registration, and not require extra gymnastics in loading the holder. The PS sheet is naturally white, but takes paint well; 99 cents worth of Testors black enamel would probably cover the six pieces of PS you'd need (the PS might set you back four or five dollars). A couple drops of super glue would lock the PS permanently in place, and you're ready to go...