Gridding a blank ground glass

[nelson_chan]

I talked to Dave Parker of Satin Snow and he said that all his gg's come blank. I have two sheets on order and he said he would include a grid template of some sorts, that is super helpful, but how does one mark a grid on a blank ground glass? I just talked to Dick Phillips and he was saying that he uses a marking device that has a very soft brass tip to grid his gg's. Thanks in advance. This question has just been bothering for sometime.

[BrianShaw]

Dave has templates on his web site. I've double-stick taped the template I like to the smooth side of the glass and traced with sharp pencil and ruler on the ground side. If you don't like the first attempt, wash with Windex (or similar glass cleaner) and start over again.

[Shen45]

Nelson all you need is a sharp lead pencil. Tape the grid Dave sends you on the table then tape the GG accurately over the grid with the rough side facing you. You only need a small amount of tape, and use one that doesn't leave a whole lot of glue on the glass. You'll work it out though. Get a straight edge and carefully draw on the screen [the etched side faces you so you draw on the rough surface].

If you don't like that grid for some reason later on you can follow Dave's, and other instruction to wash the pancil lines off and start again.

[nelson_chan]

thanks guys. i appreciate it.

[Dave Parker]

Well,

The way I do my grids, is either print the grid out on over head transparency sheets then just install the glass with the grid over top of that...(gives a bit of extra protection) or I have also, printed the grid on white paper and then lay the screen over the template, with the ground side up and then use a straight edge to trace with a sharp pencil, it is easy to do, and if you mess up, a bit of warm water and some soap, your back to square one, I have not elected to offer grids, due to the cost of machinery to print the grids on glass, time consuming(at our volume) and many of the companies have copyrights on their grid patterns as well a colors.

My favorite way is the transparency overlay, it works like a charm, and you can lay out any grid that comes to mind..

Dave

[Turner Reich]

Once I wanted a lined glass, then I got a couple of cameras and found that it obscures the looking. A lined glass would only be useful for architectural photography. I use the outer frame to align the image and it works perfectly.

[BrianShaw]

A lined glass would only be useful for architectural photography.

Gridding the glass is also useful for composing with roll film backs and Polaroid backs - anything where the frame isn't "full".

[Geert]

Nelson,

A black felt marker with very thin point will do the trick, the ones I use have a 0.05 mm tip. Make sure that it has water resistant and fast drying ink.

Kind regards,
Geert

[CG]

And I thought I was doing a second rate "hack" with a marker. I marked up a screen for the Sinar asymetric focus axis and added lines inside for roll film holder positioning.

It worked

[Geert]

And I thought I was doing a second rate "hack" with a marker. I marked up a screen for the Sinar asymetric focus axis and added lines inside for roll film holder positioning.

It worked

Sure it works, the only downside to this method is that you can wash it off.

G

[Jim Jones]

I print a computer generated pattern and tape it to the shiny side of the glass. The actual gridding is done with a ball-point pen that is long past depositing ink. Perhaps any scriber would do as well. This leaves unobtrusive bright lines. For better or worse, it is permanent.

[Turner Reich]

Gridding the glass is also useful for composing with roll film backs and Polaroid backs - anything where the frame isn't "full".

I stand corrected, you are absolutely correct. I did pencil one on, a long time ago, I forgot about using the Calumet roll holder.

[Colin Graham]

I print a computer generated pattern and tape it to the shiny side of the glass. The actual gridding is done with a ball-point pen that is long past depositing ink. Perhaps any scriber would do as well. This leaves unobtrusive bright lines. For better or worse, it is permanent.

I do this as well, the scribed lines are non-distracting yet easy to see when you need them.

[Michael Gudzinowicz]

I often used a sharp pencil on the ground glass itself. You may want to take the opportunity to use a small amount of dilute varnish to "fill" the ground glass at the center and a few other intersections. Those will be spots where you can accurately set the focus of your loupe. Then use them for focusing on the aerial image by checking side to side image displacement vs the reference lines when sharpness is critical. Use varnish ONLY on glass. The solvents required for it's removal will harm plastic.