Chamonix 45N-1 - Leveling and Alignment

[Eric James]

I'm starting this thread with the hope that others will chime in with tips on how they work with their Chamonix cameras. I had struggled with my 45N-1 for the first few sessions but I'm getting more efficient at its leveling and alignment. Here's what I've learned:

Some of us have noticed that the rear standard's "zero-tilt detents" do not appear to be in the zero position. This had been the case with my camera but I have worked though this problem. Previously I had stated:


If the camera platform is level and your rear standard is up against these so-called zero detents, is your rear standard really vertical? Mine is not.

On my camera, if the camera platform is level and the front standard is locked into the uprights, the front standard is truly vertical. Not so on the rear - if the rear standard is up against these so-called zero detents the back standard is tilted 2-3 degrees back.

Would someone please check their camera to see if these slide-out stops on the rear are meant to zero the rear standard when the platform is level?


I now believe that the levers on the rear standard do in fact function as zero detents. For those of you who are experiencing what I had previously related, try this:

REALIGNING THE REAR TILT JOINT:

1) Loosen the rear extension/swing knobs and then loosen the rear tilt knobs - you'll notice that a good deal of play develops at the rear-tilt joints.

2) With play in the rear-tilt joints, retighten the rear extension/swing knobs while making certain the right and left "rails" are positioned identically - the "rails" should be in the same position fore and aft, and there should be no swing on either "rail". (Zero swing is confirmed by running a finger along the "rail"-platform interface - these components should be perfectly aligned. The "rails" can be tightened in this position by using the rear extension/swing knobs on either the top of the "rails" or the bottom of the camera platform*.

3) With the rear-tilt knobs still loose, engage the (wanna-be, so-called, would-be) zero-detent levers. Gently tilt the back against these stops - I use an index finger on the top of the wooden frame. Holding the back against the stops, tighen the rear-tilt knobs.

Realigning the rear-tilt joint in this fashion solved the problem for me. Now - with my camera platform level, and with the rear standard snug against the zero-tilt levers, and with the front standard's zero-tilt levers engaged - my bubble levels are all zeroed out!




Now there's the issue of leveling the camera out of the pack. I'm becoming more efficient, but I still miss the mirrored duo-spirit level on the back standard of the Ebony cameras. My current strategy with the Chamonix is to:

1) Use the level beneath the ground glass to level the camera platform side to side.

2) Use the level atop the front standard to level the camera platform front to back.

2.5) I typically have to repeat steps 1 and 2 because I use a ballhead - an Arca Swiss Cube would be a big help here if it didn't cost and arm and a leg, and didn't out-weigh the camera.

3) With these two levels zeroed out, I just engage the rear standard zero-tilt levers and tighten the rear standard against them.



*And finally - I've yet to figure out just how the knobs for rear extension/swing are to be used. The "rails" can be tightened by using the top or bottom knobs. Perhaps someone can tell us how these four knobs work together to optimize movement and alignment.

[Rob_5419]

I've just read through that detailed description of how to level a 4x5 camera which I don't use.

What's wrong with just using a straight forward levelling tripod?

Is it because the camera has no zero detents for rapid calibration of a zero default position?

[Michael Rosenberg]

Don't assume that the levels built into the Chamonix are square to the frame of the camera on the back standard. Mine are off. I do a lot of architectural photography and thought to check it with a torpedo level against the ground glass. Each of the levels on the camera were off - and off by the same amount. Use them to roughly set up the camera, but then do fine tuning with another level against the ground glass.

Mike

[roteague]

I've just read through that detailed description of how to level a 4x5 camera which I don't use.

What's wrong with just using a straight forward levelling tripod?

Is it because the camera has no zero detents for rapid calibration of a zero default position?

That is the method I use. Then again, I only do landscapes, so critical leveling isn't as big an issue for me. I haven't used mine enough yet to determine how quickly the zero detent positions can be found.

[BarryS]

*And finally - I've yet to figure out just how the knobs for rear extension/swing are to be used. The "rails" can be tightened by using the top or bottom knobs. Perhaps someone can tell us how these four knobs work together to optimize movement and alignment.

Here's my take on the four knob adjustments for forward-back and swing movement of the rear standard.

Zeroing Rear Swing
When the knobs on the bottom of the main bed are in their rearmost position in the slot and upper knobs are loosened to move the rear standard base all the way forward--it acts as a zero detent for rear swing. The rear standard swing can also be zeroed by loosening the top knobs and aligning the rear standard base with the back edge of the bed OR by sliding the rear standard base all the way back OR by using the bed alignment marks at intermediate positions.

Long Lenses
The bottom knobs are placed at the back of the bed slots and the top knobs are loosened to slide the rear standard as far back as necessary.

Short Lenses
The bottom knobs are placed at the front of the bed slots and the top knobs are loosened to slide the rear standard as far forward as necessary. This move makes sure that the front standard remains close to the front edge of the bed so it does not intrude into the frame with wide lenses.

Adjusting Rear Swing
For small to moderate rear swings, the top knobs are loosened. For more extreme swings, both the top and bottom knobs are loosened.

The nice thing about the Chamonix is that there's more than one way to accomplish relative front and back standard movements, so one photographer might prefer unscrewing the front standard base and moving it and another might prefer sliding the rear standard. BTW, I checked my camera levels and they seem very accurate and in agreement.

[BarryS]

My slide out rear detents for zeroing rear tilt seem to be accurate. However I noticed that each slide out detent has a tiny set screw that can be adjusted for fine calibration. You have to be impressed with that level of detail in this camera.