Eric James
24-Dec-2007, 02:41
I'm starting this thread with the hope that others will chime in with tips on how they work with their Chamonix cameras. I had struggled with my 45N-1 for the first few sessions but I'm getting more efficient at its leveling and alignment. Here's what I've learned:
Some of us have noticed that the rear standard's "zero-tilt detents" do not appear to be in the zero position. This had been the case with my camera but I have worked though this problem. Previously I had stated:
If the camera platform is level and your rear standard is up against these so-called zero detents, is your rear standard really vertical? Mine is not.
On my camera, if the camera platform is level and the front standard is locked into the uprights, the front standard is truly vertical. Not so on the rear - if the rear standard is up against these so-called zero detents the back standard is tilted 2-3 degrees back.
Would someone please check their camera to see if these slide-out stops on the rear are meant to zero the rear standard when the platform is level?
I now believe that the levers on the rear standard do in fact function as zero detents. For those of you who are experiencing what I had previously related, try this:
REALIGNING THE REAR TILT JOINT:
1) Loosen the rear extension/swing knobs and then loosen the rear tilt knobs - you'll notice that a good deal of play develops at the rear-tilt joints.
2) With play in the rear-tilt joints, retighten the rear extension/swing knobs while making certain the right and left "rails" are positioned identically - the "rails" should be in the same position fore and aft, and there should be no swing on either "rail". (Zero swing is confirmed by running a finger along the "rail"-platform interface - these components should be perfectly aligned. The "rails" can be tightened in this position by using the rear extension/swing knobs on either the top of the "rails" or the bottom of the camera platform*.
3) With the rear-tilt knobs still loose, engage the (wanna-be, so-called, would-be) zero-detent levers. Gently tilt the back against these stops - I use an index finger on the top of the wooden frame. Holding the back against the stops, tighen the rear-tilt knobs.
Realigning the rear-tilt joint in this fashion solved the problem for me. Now - with my camera platform level, and with the rear standard snug against the zero-tilt levers, and with the front standard's zero-tilt levers engaged - my bubble levels are all zeroed out!
Now there's the issue of leveling the camera out of the pack. I'm becoming more efficient, but I still miss the mirrored duo-spirit level on the back standard of the Ebony cameras. My current strategy with the Chamonix is to:
1) Use the level beneath the ground glass to level the camera platform side to side.
2) Use the level atop the front standard to level the camera platform front to back.
2.5) I typically have to repeat steps 1 and 2 because I use a ballhead - an Arca Swiss Cube would be a big help here if it didn't cost and arm and a leg, and didn't out-weigh the camera.
3) With these two levels zeroed out, I just engage the rear standard zero-tilt levers and tighten the rear standard against them.
*And finally - I've yet to figure out just how the knobs for rear extension/swing are to be used. The "rails" can be tightened by using the top or bottom knobs. Perhaps someone can tell us how these four knobs work together to optimize movement and alignment.
Some of us have noticed that the rear standard's "zero-tilt detents" do not appear to be in the zero position. This had been the case with my camera but I have worked though this problem. Previously I had stated:
If the camera platform is level and your rear standard is up against these so-called zero detents, is your rear standard really vertical? Mine is not.
On my camera, if the camera platform is level and the front standard is locked into the uprights, the front standard is truly vertical. Not so on the rear - if the rear standard is up against these so-called zero detents the back standard is tilted 2-3 degrees back.
Would someone please check their camera to see if these slide-out stops on the rear are meant to zero the rear standard when the platform is level?
I now believe that the levers on the rear standard do in fact function as zero detents. For those of you who are experiencing what I had previously related, try this:
REALIGNING THE REAR TILT JOINT:
1) Loosen the rear extension/swing knobs and then loosen the rear tilt knobs - you'll notice that a good deal of play develops at the rear-tilt joints.
2) With play in the rear-tilt joints, retighten the rear extension/swing knobs while making certain the right and left "rails" are positioned identically - the "rails" should be in the same position fore and aft, and there should be no swing on either "rail". (Zero swing is confirmed by running a finger along the "rail"-platform interface - these components should be perfectly aligned. The "rails" can be tightened in this position by using the rear extension/swing knobs on either the top of the "rails" or the bottom of the camera platform*.
3) With the rear-tilt knobs still loose, engage the (wanna-be, so-called, would-be) zero-detent levers. Gently tilt the back against these stops - I use an index finger on the top of the wooden frame. Holding the back against the stops, tighen the rear-tilt knobs.
Realigning the rear-tilt joint in this fashion solved the problem for me. Now - with my camera platform level, and with the rear standard snug against the zero-tilt levers, and with the front standard's zero-tilt levers engaged - my bubble levels are all zeroed out!
Now there's the issue of leveling the camera out of the pack. I'm becoming more efficient, but I still miss the mirrored duo-spirit level on the back standard of the Ebony cameras. My current strategy with the Chamonix is to:
1) Use the level beneath the ground glass to level the camera platform side to side.
2) Use the level atop the front standard to level the camera platform front to back.
2.5) I typically have to repeat steps 1 and 2 because I use a ballhead - an Arca Swiss Cube would be a big help here if it didn't cost and arm and a leg, and didn't out-weigh the camera.
3) With these two levels zeroed out, I just engage the rear standard zero-tilt levers and tighten the rear standard against them.
*And finally - I've yet to figure out just how the knobs for rear extension/swing are to be used. The "rails" can be tightened by using the top or bottom knobs. Perhaps someone can tell us how these four knobs work together to optimize movement and alignment.