John H. Henderson
9-Feb-2001, 11:53
Thanks for everyone's help diagnosing my color processing problems. I put one o f the first nags halfway in bleach-fix for 3-4 minutes, and there was a very min or lightening of the mask.
Besides that, and the fact that others verified that the 4x5 mask looks a little darker than 35mm, I'm convinced I don't have a bleach-fix problem.
But I think I have on with the stabilizer. I am left with these white spots and blotches all over the negatives. Let me see if I can link the photos....(and I 'm a bit nervous showing anything I've taken to the pros on this board!)
http://www.geocities.com/johnhhenderson/sts98-fbcmi.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/johnhhenderson/capelh.jpg
The Tetenal instructions say that's due to the stabilizer. Since they tell me I can bleach-fix up to 50% longer than the recommended 3:30, I have increased ble ach-fixing to 5 minutes, so I don't think this is a problems of unbleached silve r.
The instructions also say that I should mix the stabilizer with more distilled w ater, but I already mixed it all with distilled water to begin with!
I'm using Jobo drum with 2509n reels on a CPE2. After stabilizer, I open the dr um and there is a lot of froth. It seems to act something like Photo-Flo. The first time, I just let the negs hang thinking the froth will slide off, but mayb e I have dried froth. Maybe stabilizer shouldn't be used in a rotary drum - per haps I should just dip the reel in it? Does anyone have another procedure? Sho uld I rinse the negs after stabilizer? Use Photo-flo? The instructions sound l ike I go straight from stabilizer to hanging them to dry.
Anyway, I put these last negs back into the reel and went back to the wash using the Jobo hose that plugs into the drum - near but under 40C - the highest temp recommended. Then I put in the stabilizer again and put it back on the machine for the recommended time + 50%. This time, I squeegeed off the excess froth and hung the negs. Now I can still see the dried stabilizer and the squeegee "trai ls". And these spots on the negative like you see in the picture remain - the < em>same</em> spots remain - they weren't affected at all by the rewashing and re stabilizing.
(1) What am I doing wrong in the first place and what can I do to get my results right the first time?
(2) Is there some way for me to go back and restore these negatives?
Thanks a lot.
Besides that, and the fact that others verified that the 4x5 mask looks a little darker than 35mm, I'm convinced I don't have a bleach-fix problem.
But I think I have on with the stabilizer. I am left with these white spots and blotches all over the negatives. Let me see if I can link the photos....(and I 'm a bit nervous showing anything I've taken to the pros on this board!)
http://www.geocities.com/johnhhenderson/sts98-fbcmi.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/johnhhenderson/capelh.jpg
The Tetenal instructions say that's due to the stabilizer. Since they tell me I can bleach-fix up to 50% longer than the recommended 3:30, I have increased ble ach-fixing to 5 minutes, so I don't think this is a problems of unbleached silve r.
The instructions also say that I should mix the stabilizer with more distilled w ater, but I already mixed it all with distilled water to begin with!
I'm using Jobo drum with 2509n reels on a CPE2. After stabilizer, I open the dr um and there is a lot of froth. It seems to act something like Photo-Flo. The first time, I just let the negs hang thinking the froth will slide off, but mayb e I have dried froth. Maybe stabilizer shouldn't be used in a rotary drum - per haps I should just dip the reel in it? Does anyone have another procedure? Sho uld I rinse the negs after stabilizer? Use Photo-flo? The instructions sound l ike I go straight from stabilizer to hanging them to dry.
Anyway, I put these last negs back into the reel and went back to the wash using the Jobo hose that plugs into the drum - near but under 40C - the highest temp recommended. Then I put in the stabilizer again and put it back on the machine for the recommended time + 50%. This time, I squeegeed off the excess froth and hung the negs. Now I can still see the dried stabilizer and the squeegee "trai ls". And these spots on the negative like you see in the picture remain - the < em>same</em> spots remain - they weren't affected at all by the rewashing and re stabilizing.
(1) What am I doing wrong in the first place and what can I do to get my results right the first time?
(2) Is there some way for me to go back and restore these negatives?
Thanks a lot.