Silver hardware inside film holder - Problem?

[David Karp]

Hi all,

I recently purchased some wooden film holders. They are in good shape, but I noticed that the lips that hold the film in place are bare metal/silver colored. This raises the concern that they might cause some flare when the shutter opens and light hits the lips.

Am I being too anal? Anyone have holders with similar characteristics? If yes, any problems?

I am thinking about making them black. The quick and dirty way would be with a Sharpie marker. Perhaps not the best way, but I have not come up with an alternative yet. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

[Bruce Watson]

Hi all,

I recently purchased some wooden film holders. They are in good shape, but I noticed that the lips that hold the film in place are bare metal/silver colored. This raises the concern that they might cause some flare when the shutter opens and light hits the lips.

Am I being too anal? Anyone have holders with similar characteristics? If yes, any problems?

I am thinking about making them black. The quick and dirty way would be with a Sharpie marker. Perhaps not the best way, but I have not come up with an alternative yet. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

I've gotten flair from the shiny edges of the film holding "rails" in my Lisco Regal IIs. This is black plastic mind you. A light sanding to rough up the edges of the rails fixed this for me.

I suggest you might want to use a matte black paint for this duty. It should do a better job and last much longer.

[Richard Kelham]

I've never had to do it but would think something like Casey's gun-blue would be better than paint.



Richard

[Glenn Thoreson]

I would do something to dull them. It's not so much the color as the reflection. Gun blue would be a good idea, but may not work, as I believe these are aluminum. Flat black paint applied lightly with an artist brush would be my suggestion, if all else is well in there. Sharpie ink is somewhat reflective.

[LargeFormatShooter]

Flat auto body paint primer will work nicely after it is scuffed up. Then apply a flat lacquer to seal.

[David Karp]

Thanks for the tips. I think I will rough them up and paint them flat black.

[BrianShaw]

Gun blue would be a good idea, but may not work, as I believe these are aluminum.
Casey's Aluminum Black might be worth trying also.

EDIT: I don't know anything about this particular source, but here is a listing of some of the Birchwood Casey products: Aluminum Black and Brass Black. Whenever I've used Birchwood Casey procucts I've been quite satisfied with the results.

http://www.riflemagazine.com/catalog/detail.cfm?ProductID=356

EDIT, again: Here is a better source... follow the "blueing" link.

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/index.html

[Keith Pitman]

Birchwood Casey also makes a gun retouching "paint" that is in a cylinder like a big magic marker. I've used it to retouching the raw edges of Nielsen frames as well as other black thinks works really welll and, if you have new one, it has a applicator with a sharp edge that lets you apply it fairly precisely.

[David Karp]

Thanks Keith and Brian. I am going to get both of the Casey's products. I can use both of them for a variety of projects.

[C. D. Keth]

The brass black is good for making old waterhouse stops black again.