Fooling w/ Velostigmat Series II SoftFocus

[Darryl Baird]

Has anyone tried to use the Velo SF lenses beyond "5" on the fuzzolator dial? I just thought if the 0-5 was for general uses, what happens beyond that mark as you screw the front element further away from the rest of the lens?

I set up a shot an made four sets of exposures, each stopping down one stop plus wide open -- f/4, 5.6, 8, and 11. Here's 5.6 at "15" on the fuzzy dial (that's three revolutions, counter[anti-]clockwise).

...the bananas are soft because I didn't bother to swing the back, my bad

[Jim Galli]

There has been some question lately.....

Did you focus at 0 then turn to 15 with no change of focus?

Great shot!

[Darryl Baird]

No Jim, I refocused. Otherwise it's a fuzz-o-max mess, but I certainly see a lot more halo and "atmosphere" than from a normal 5 setting.

Another part of the puzzle here is the lens elements' air space is slightly less. I had this 9-1/2" in a barrel, but found it fit perfectly in a Betax 4, with the front and rear groups a tad closer. The shutter wasn't engraved with stops, so I marked it for approx. stops with my eyeballs. I had to try it...

[Darryl Baird]

I was hoping to repeat this experiment with my longer 12" Velo on a portrait, but found that my lens, unlike the 9.5" version, will NOT unscrew/dial to any point beyond the "5" mark. I don't know if I could (and generally don't like to use) force the element to go further, but it was a surprise.

Does anyone have a version that will "unscrew" further than the 5 mark?

[Jim Galli]

I was hoping to repeat this experiment with my longer 12" Velo on a portrait, but found that my lens, unlike the 9.5" version, will NOT unscrew/dial to any point beyond the "5" mark. I don't know if I could (and generally don't like to use) force the element to go further, but it was a surprise.

Does anyone have a version that will "unscrew" further than the 5 mark?

If you unscrew the ring that holds the rear element of the front group in place, and let it drop out, you will see a tiny screw up front that is the "stop". Remove it and your threads will keep right on unscrewing.

[Mark Sawyer]

Good information to know here. I have the 9.5" and the 12", and neither would unscrew past the 5 setting. I'll play with removing that ring...

Playing with mine lately, I've found refocusing after dialing in the diffusion (or just focusing with the "fuzz" already dialed in) is necessary. Changing the diffusion setting seems to change the focal length slightly, and just gives an out of focus image. But refocusing at the 5 setting returns to a fairly sharp image. I think Darryl found the secret! (Perhaps we should all sing a virtual "for he's a jolly good fellow...")

And by ther way, Darryl, that's a lovely image with a lovely effect. Looking forward to seeing more...

And looking forward to seeing the prices of Velostigmats skyrocket. I always thought they were under-appreciated.

[Mark Sawyer]

BTW, this is from a 12" Velostigmat series II at f/4.5 (wide open) set at 5 on the diffusion ring and refocused. Only very slightly soft, but still a nice effect...

[Jeremy Moore]

mark, that's a gorgeous shot. i know this doesn't add to the discussion, but still... great shot.

[wfwhitaker]

Looks like Mark's model was waiting for a while for him to finish fidgeting with the diffusion...

[Jan Pedersen]

Looks like Mark's model was waiting for a while for him to finish fidgeting with the diffusion...

A good trick if you don't want to pay your model ;)

[Darryl Baird]

If you unscrew the ring that holds the rear element of the front group in place, and let it drop out, you will see a tiny screw up front that is the "stop". Remove it and your threads will keep right on unscrewing.

Jim, you got me all excited and I grabbed the lens and unscrewed the front element, then unscrewed the rear retaining ring only to be stymied by the threaded collar that the retaining ring attaches onto. Try as I might I couldn't budge that collar out of the rear. I can see and feel with a tiny screwdriver the set screw you've mentioned, but it mocks me with its location. Is this something a repair shop should/could manage?

so close, yet so far away still... :(

[Mark Sawyer]

I've been playing with my 9.5" and 12", but can't get the rear rins to budge on either. They're smooth and round with nothing to grab onto, and very close to the edge of the housing they're recessed into. (Mine are in Studio Shutter-compatible barrels, btw...)

Any hints or ideas on a good way to loosen those rings without damaging them? I'd love to play with them past the 5 limit this weekend... (Carrots are waiting...)

[Jim Galli]

I've been playing with my 9.5" and 12", but can't get the rear rins to budge on either. They're smooth and round with nothing to grab onto, and very close to the edge of the housing they're recessed into. (Mine are in Studio Shutter-compatible barrels, btw...)

Any hints or ideas on a good way to loosen those rings without damaging them? I'd love to play with them past the 5 limit this weekend... (Carrots are waiting...)

You need a couple of 6X6" pieces of inner tube for grips.

[Mark Sawyer]

Aha! Or maybe I'll pick up one of those jar-lid-grippy-thingies at the grocery store tonight... Thanks, Jim! I'll let you know how it goes...