hc 110

[figaro]

hello,
just started shooting on 8x10 tri-x 320 and after years i will develop them myselve in hc 110.
i don't see any times for 8x10 inch.
does somebody have experience in trix 320 and hc 110?
how long do you develop(in tray)

thank you verry much,
maarten

[RichardRitter]

Get the Film Test kit by Bruce Barlow http://www.circleofthesunproductions.com/. It will save you a lot of time and film and you will end up with negatives that are a joy to print.

The reason I subject this kit is you would be setting a developing time to the water and way you process the film. I have 3 times for HC110. One for the shallow well, one for the deep well, and one for Pennsylvania where I do a lot of work all 3 are different but the negatives all come out the same.

Richard T Ritter
www.lg4mat.net
www.finefocusworkshops.com

[Gary L. Quay]

Get the Film Test kit by Bruce Barlow http://www.circleofthesunproductions.com/. It will save you a lot of time and film and you will end up with negatives that are a joy to print.

The reason I subject this kit is you would be setting a developing time to the water and way you process the film. I have 3 times for HC110. One for the shallow well, one for the deep well, and one for Pennsylvania where I do a lot of work all 3 are different but the negatives all come out the same.

Richard T Ritter
www.lg4mat.net
www.finefocusworkshops.com

That kit looks interesting. I've been struggling with consistancy myself, and because I work a full-time job, I don't have the time or inclination to run all of the Zone system tests.

By the way, I learned about your cameras from View Camera Magazine. I've been thinking about investing in one, but I have to save up the funds first.

--gary

[j.e.simmons]

I think the kit is a good idea, too. However, you seem to be asking for times specific to 8x10 - I think times for any of the sheet film sizes would be the same, so if you've located a time for 4x5, for instance, give that a try.
juan

[Chuck Pere]

I don't have any times but maybe check the info at:
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/index.html

[Bruce Barlow]

I think the kit is a good idea, too. However, you seem to be asking for times specific to 8x10 - I think times for any of the sheet film sizes would be the same, so if you've located a time for 4x5, for instance, give that a try.
juan

Maybe, but why risk it? The tests in the kit Richard mentions take maybe a morning to do, with most of that time waiting for film or paper to dry. It calibrates exposure and development exactly for your materials, and is infinitely reusable. I recently used it to calibrate for Azo and amidol. It could be used to calibrate for platinum printing, too. I've used it with PMK, and it's actually better, and easier, than using a densitometer.

I think Ted Harris has me lined up to do a workshop at Ft. Collins next June on film testing. Maybe a little far away to be helpful right now. He's asking whether the workshop is a half- or full-day, including all lecture time and time for everyone to do their own. I haven't figured that out yet. I suspect a full day, but we'll do some other stuff, too.

I thought the kit was a good idea. Especially the reusable part, where you don't have to send negatives off to someone to read on a densitometer. With the kit, you can read them yourself and pick the right one. If you screw up, no worries - do it over. I tested three films in two sizes a couple years ago in one day. Fast, but I decided I hated testing.

All the testing stuff is in the "Finely Focused" CD-ROM book, too.

Enough self-promotion. Thanks for your indulgence.

[RichardRitter]

The time to run the test is well worth it. It takes about half an hour to set up and do the Zone I test. Developing of the film can be done in the evening its better them watching TV. Once the film is dry a day latter find the proper film speed and find proper proof time. When the film speed is known do the development time test. I too work a full time job but I do try to find any where from 15 minutes to an hour every other day to take at less one image even if it is Polaroid.


If you do have a time for 4 x 5 Tri X film it would be a good starting point for the 8 x 10 film. My time is slightly different for 8 x 10 as compared to 4 x 5 .

[Bill Kumpf]

I used the film test kit to tune my processing. It is a fairly quick and easy test. I changed both my E.I. and developing time as a result. Negatives print better with an improved range of tones.

One of the best values out there…………..

[figaro]

thank you all for your helpfull comments!
i will give the kit a try
gr
maarten

[jwaddison]

If you're going to try the kit, I suggest getting Bruce's book-on-a-CD, which includes the kit. http://www.finefocusworkshops.com. It is a very useful book!

[Gary L. Quay]

The time to run the test is well worth it. It takes about half an hour to set up and do the Zone I test. Developing of the film can be done in the evening its better them watching TV. Once the film is dry a day latter find the proper film speed and find proper proof time. When the film speed is known do the development time test. I too work a full time job but I do try to find any where from 15 minutes to an hour every other day to take at less one image even if it is Polaroid .

I haven't watched TV in years. I work the night shift, plus two nights a week overtime (going toward future equipment purchases and debt from past equipment purchases). I like to use the precious little time I have to get into the darkroom in a creative endeavor. I really would like to do the Zone System tests, but I'll wait until the overtime runs out. That'll be in a couple years. I'd really like to have the funds for a 7x17 camera by next spring. Giving up all that time isn't so great now, but I think it'll pay off in the end.

--Gary

[Bruce Barlow]

I like to use the precious little time I have to get into the darkroom in a creative endeavor. I really would like to do the Zone System tests, but I'll wait until the overtime runs out.

--Gary[/QUOTE]

I'm struggling to see how printing less-than-ideal negatives is a better use of your time. It seems that the satisfaction of making substantially better prints from well-exposed, well-developed negatives would be worth the investment of some of your extremely limited time.

[keith english]

Would the film test kit be applicable to film to be scanned rather than printed on silver-gelatin? I have wondered if anyone has standard densities for good scanning on a flatbed, or do you just have to adjust it for your scanner? I think the kit would be worth it just for the EI reading!

[Bruce Barlow]

Would the film test kit be applicable to film to be scanned rather than printed on silver-gelatin? I have wondered if anyone has standard densities for good scanning on a flatbed, or do you just have to adjust it for your scanner? I think the kit would be worth it just for the EI reading!

Yes, at least to get the proper ISO for the film you're using - that way you have good shadow densities. Development time, I think, may be less critical for scanning purposes, but I defer to those who actually do it. Development time should calibrate your scanner and film, just as it calibrates film and paper. Intuitively, it makes sense, and that's where I usually learn later that I'm wrong!!

[RichardRitter]

Simple enough to find out, take 6 exposures of a white house looking at it on a 45 degree angle one face in the sun and one in shadow. You will have a full range of zones. If you did the Zone I test correctly you can place the bright clapboard on zone VIII and make 6 negatives. Run the development time test using these negatives scan then and see which one works the best. Leave the front door open. A cat wondering through the set of exposures helps.

[j.e.simmons]

In my somewhat limited experience scanning, a negative properly exposed and developed for Grade 2 paper seems to be about right.
juan

[Bruce Barlow]

In my somewhat limited experience scanning, a negative properly exposed and developed for Grade 2 paper seems to be about right.
juan

Maybe, but wouldn't you rather know "right" from "about right?" That's kinda the whole point. We can all get to "about right," it's the last bit that really nails it, and I'm always surprised at how big a difference that last little bit makes.

Richard's idea makes a lot of sense to me. Especially the cat part.

[keith english]

Thanks for the ideas. Switching from silver printing to digital, after a few years out of it, there are so many variables at once. Film, Development, Scanning. I assume Richard meant a black cat (Zone 1). I plan to order the CD and kit.

[Gary L. Quay]

I like to use the precious little time I have to get into the darkroom in a creative endeavor. I really would like to do the Zone System tests, but I'll wait until the overtime runs out.

--Gary

I'm struggling to see how printing less-than-ideal negatives is a better use of your time. It seems that the satisfaction of making substantially better prints from well-exposed, well-developed negatives would be worth the investment of some of your extremely limited time.[/QUOTE]

I just ordered the book with the film test kit. You are right. I've been becoming increasingly dissatisfied with inconsistent negatives. If I can get my exposures down, I will have a much less frustrating time developing film.

--Gary

[Bruce Barlow]

I just ordered the book with the film test kit. You are right. I've been becoming increasingly dissatisfied with inconsistent negatives. If I can get my exposures down, I will have a much less frustrating time developing film.

--Gary[/QUOTE]

On the way today, and thank you! I'm printing negatives made in Maine a few weeks ago (35mm, but don't tell anybody). The consistency is amazing, and I have a printing "formula" that has me to final prints in no time. It feels great to be "cranking them out." Will it hold over to the LF negs? Beats me, but I can see from the proof sheets that they're pretty consistent, so it SHOULD be easy to be productive.

I promised myself I'd wade thru the 35s before tackling the 8x10 and 5x7 negs. I hope to finish today with nearly 50 pictures printed. Then on to another 50 or so LF> What a great trip!

Thanks again,

[jetcode]

I just did a film test using a precision 4-tone step card and 8 sheets of 4x10 film in a small terrace in my backyard in direct late afternoon light. The goal was to find an EI and development times for a particular film/developer. I finished developing last night and the negs tell the story well. I was careful in making precise exposures and precise developing conditions. I now have a variety of densities to choose from though I will likely select 3 negatives to make test scans from. The documentation for this test is on the neg sleeves so I have an exact reference. The test was easy and the process took a day but now when I go into the field I will have high confidence regarding exposure and development times. I also intend to shoot 1 or more sheets per image for testing purposes during the development phase. This guarantees a perfect negative. I don't have a densitometer and won't likely need one.