JML 6.5" f/8 shots

[nelsonfotodotcom]

Shot 6 sheets, fogged the last two, by all accounts, when a car's headlights permeated my, uh, impermeable window cover in the bathroom. Looks like the others picked up some slight fogging as well, though still usable. They were already in the Yankee holder, must have helped them somehow.

At any rate, the JML looks like a definite user. I need to work on my development, using a gifted Yankee tank that is not ideal, but works. I've got a drum roller and a hack for loading a drum with sheet film, but need to perfect it before trying it out.

So... here are three shots. Art, they ain't. But it'll get better with time.

I had to tweak the crap outta this one to get a usable image. Was clipped on the high end, still not sure what happened with it. I did have a lamp on her, and that might have been the problem. One second exposure, f/11.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1014/1353683888_f5f4d90123_o.jpg

Another one shot inside... f/32, 45 seconds.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1103/1352795905_af58b802e7_o.jpg

And lastly, an outdoor shot, flat near-dusk light, the sun having just dropped over the hills. This is a spot where folks have been dumping junk for years, and every time I go back, something new is added. Very odd. An old structure near it, some strange slab stone arches, supported by wire-frame, and I'll have to go back soon and check that out. For now...

This is f/45, 4secs. Lens is very sharp at that point, lots of nice detail. I think I did ok with the JML.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1226/1353683772_dd7e1c7aa3_o.jpg

[Uusilehto]

As it happens, I just bought this lens (209mm f/8) at a camera fair for 10€. For narrow DOF, you could try taking off the aperture ring and removing the screw that limits the aperture to f/8. The lens opens up to around f/4.5 which should make it ideal for portraits. I'll try to get a few portrait shots done tomorrow.
Being a reasonably modern (even if only single-coated) process lens, it should provide excellent sharpness at smaller apertures.

EDIT: And in case you're thinking about doing this operation, don't sweat it. Just loosen up the ball bearing (for the click-stops) by unscrewing (four or so turns) the screw next to the aperture markings to loosen up the ball so it doesn't jump out. Then you just remove the flange and pull out the aperture ring. There is a screw controlling the aperture. It catches on the opening ends to limit the aperture. Unscrew the screw and open up the aperture with a screwdriver.
The barrel doesn't look that complicated. The only thing that limits the aperture is the machined hole where the screw comes out. I might disassemble the whole thing and mill in some extra opening to allow opening up to f/4.5. This, however takes time and I'm not exactly a fan of assembling 16-blade apertures. In other words, I'll just leave it as it is for the moment.

[D. Bryant]

[QUOTE=nelsonfotodotcom;272415]Shot 6 sheets, fogged the last two, by all accounts, when a car's headlights permeated my, uh, impermeable window cover in the bathroom. Looks like the others picked up some slight fogging as well, though still usable. They were already in the Yankee holder, must have helped them somehow.

At any rate, the JML looks like a definite user. I need to work on my development, using a gifted Yankee tank that is not ideal, but works. I've got a drum roller and a hack for loading a drum with sheet film, but need to perfect it before trying it out.

So... here are three shots. Art, they ain't. But it'll get better with time.

I had to tweak the crap outta this one to get a usable image. Was clipped on the high end, still not sure what happened with it. I did have a lamp on her, and that might have been the problem. One second exposure, f/11.



Another one shot inside... f/32, 45 seconds.



And lastly, an outdoor shot, flat near-dusk light, the sun having just dropped over the hills. This is a spot where folks have been dumping junk for years, and every time I go back, something new is added. Very odd. An old structure near it, some strange slab stone arches, supported by wire-frame, and I'll have to go back soon and check that out. For now...

This is f/45, 4secs. Lens is very sharp at that point, lots of nice detail. I think I did ok with the JML.


Perhaps I should have charged a little more for that lens! I like the third one the best.

Hope you are having fun,

Don

[nelsonfotodotcom]

A couple of more shots. Haven't used it in a bit, but still appears to have potential.

At any rate, I shot two sheets past it, mounted on the GVII rail. Rail-cameras are a pain in the ass, I've decided. Too slow to set up, too big to lug around in that case, and I don't need to punch a hole in the middle of my face by moving before thinking and slamming into the ass-end of that rail while composing. Think I'm going to dump the GVII and make a pitch to my buddy Paul who has a nice Shen Hao for sale.

FWIW, here are two shots of the JML/GVII. Acros at 160 in Diafine. No shutter in the JML, so questimate/counted off a couple of seconds each. The first was at f32, the latter, left wide open. I like the second shot for the selective feel.

I'm going to have to break down and invest in a proper JOBO development system. I'm not getting consisten dev in the Yankee, and the Unicolor drum trick is not efficient for multi-sheet runs.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2002/2093705685_a21e6284cf_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2107/2093705745_6a74afd308_o.jpg

[D. Bryant]

A couple of more shots. Haven't used it in a bit, but still appears to have potential.

At any rate, I shot two sheets past it, mounted on the GVII rail. Rail-cameras are a pain in the ass, I've decided. Too slow to set up, too big to lug around in that case, and I don't need to punch a hole in the middle of my face by moving before thinking and slamming into the ass-end of that rail while composing. Think I'm going to dump the GVII and make a pitch to my buddy Paul who has a nice Shen Hao for sale.

FWIW, here are two shots of the JML/GVII. Acros at 160 in Diafine. No shutter in the JML, so questimate/counted off a couple of seconds each. The first was at f32, the latter, left wide open. I like the second shot for the selective feel.

I'm going to have to break down and invest in a proper JOBO development system. I'm not getting consisten dev in the Yankee, and the Unicolor drum trick is not efficient for multi-sheet runs.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2002/2093705685_a21e6284cf_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2107/2093705745_6a74afd308_o.jpg

Get a Chamonix 4x5 - one of the best values in 4x5 field cameras around.

For processing get the BTZS development tubes. A set of 6 with the development tray is only about $120.

Good luck with your lens, perhaps you can put it in a shutter soon.

Don Bryant

[nelsonfotodotcom]

Hello again, Don. The lens is worthy; I just need to shoot through it more and find the sweet spot. Rather enjoy the look of it wide-open. Stopped down, not so much.

I've got an eye on the Chamonix cameras. That said, there's a tasty Shen Hao in my back yard that I am interested in.

Best,
Craig

[nelsonfotodotcom]

As for the BZT gear... cheaper to pick up another roller-base for the Unicolor drums, find a second or third drum and use them as I have been the one I currently own. The biggest issue with the print-drums is leakage, but I'm going to remedy that with a bead of silicon.

[Gene McCluney]

If you "really" get into 4x5 or larger, you might consider deep tank...well 3.5 gallon tanks anyway and film hangers. I do this, and it is the only way I can process the volume I shoot in a timely manner. The tanks and film hangers can be purchased used quite reasonably and last a lifetime.

[nelsonfotodotcom]

No darkroom at this time, Gene. I load everything in a large bag, use daylight methods for development.

[D. Bryant]

As for the BZT gear... cheaper to pick up another roller-base for the Unicolor drums, find a second or third drum and use them as I have been the one I currently own. The biggest issue with the print-drums is leakage, but I'm going to remedy that with a bead of silicon.
Trust me Nelson, you will be much happier and get more consistent results with the BTZS tubes than the Uni drums.

But if you insist I have some drums and new replacement gaskets that I can sell to you.

PM me if you are interested.

Don Bryant